The light is your problem, as far as intensity is concerned. I run Radion G6 Pros on my tank. I can absolutely confirm that PAR readings are weaker than they should be, at a cost of $529 a pop, on G6 XR15’s. I am seeing much the same. At full intensity, I get about 250 PAR at the top of my aquascape. I have them on EcoTech’s own RMS mount. I’ve just got a standard WaterBox tank, nothing custom or super deep. Relying on light bouncing off the glass to achieve higher PAR, is a faulted strategy, if true, as every reefer’s tank is different. Also, they came out with that lens kit to increase the strength late in the product’s life cycle. Obviously not planned from the outset. They did it to solve the misstep of making a weaker intensity light and catching flak for it, and they expect reefers to pay for the cost of their faulted design approach. In short, it’s not a bad light, but it does lack in intensity, especially for the price point. You’re not crazy or wrong in your findings here. And regardless what Greg Carroll says, in the case of intensity, the light is the problem.
Thank you, I don't want to talk bad on any reefers, but many in the comments and forums can confuse other saying they get 350 pat at 35- 40% intensity. However they also have about 2-4 other light supplements to achieve that and depending what light they use the cost cam rocket.
Facts....I have 3 XR15 G6 Pros over a 35.4"L x 21.7"W x 20.9"H tank and i need crank it up to 80-85% before i get good enough numbers. Keep in mind, I have the narrow lens kit. Just disappointed with the price to par ratio.
I have a mixed reef with Radion G5 I have no problems growing acropora and other sps along with Lps at 60% intensity. I do have a PAR meter, and I'm happy with the numbers. My tank is 4ft with 2 XR15's and 1 XR30.
Interesting. Not sure if user error but I have a waterbox 110. 4ft tank and my g5s give me 350 par at about the same depth at 70% (only have whites up to 30%). Also with nutrients if you arnt testing weekly I would suggest doing so. Stability is key and your nitrate and phos are high. Sps color will suffer with too high of nutrients as well as too low
It shouldn't be like that for their price range, but I understand that it is business. I'll be honest a lot of plp in this social platforms hype up products like this because they are sponsored. However there are other lights that cost less that can outperform this lights. Just my opinion..
@@twinsreef6107 Agree with you 100% I have gen 6's and they work well with my LPS corals (for my needs) but a 20 dollar reflector is a cheaper option than 300 dollar replacement lights. But they should be powerful enough from the off as you say. Or they should offer the reflector as a trade in for the old one as a good will gesture.
I have Nicrew hyperreef 150 it’s $300 with controller in Canada. This is 35% white 100% blue 3 inches is 1000 par, 6 inches is 750, 12 inches is 400, 18” is 250
I have an Apogee 510, a Radion XR 30 Pro G6, and Neptune Sky (bought at launch). About 12 inches under water the Radion has 350 - 400 par at 80% power on PHX14 setting and the Sky is 400 par at 50% power using the Neptune Sky setting.
A mix reef is the hardest tank to keep truly happy. To many corals need something different. Personally i like to keep sps in its own tank. I have never had an issue with soft and LPS together but the flow tends to be the hardest part to deal with once you add SPS.
Sps need stability more then anything, Alk being the big dog but everything needs to be stable and rock solid for them to grow and thrive. They don't like much change and they take forever to get back into their routine after a change happens. Something I've learned is when having issues with sps its just natural to wonder what's wrong in there now but the reality is it could be perfect at that moment but Something 2 weeks back like a big alk swing or salinity change etc could've happend and it's just now showing its face. So never leave out things that may have happend before the the time you notice an issue
@KentuckyReef I'll go with that, if were talking overall levels, PH is plays a huge role but the swings is more of what im referring too, ph don't seem to cause as much as an I'll effect as alk if a major change occurs. As far as running high or low alk it isn't nearly an issue as long as it's stable and the corals are used to it if your said 12 dkh was to drop to 10 or 9 overnight it's gonna be a hard to reverse problem. Doesn't mean certain death always but can cause some serious problems
Got to love the market, saturated the market with the blanket of light coverage without the necessary PAR punch, but supplement your 500/ 1000 lights with the A. I blades. Create a problem and come up with the solution
It's sad because before I got the lights, everyone was hyping up this lights, however never showed any receipts regarding par output and if they can grow corals on Their own and I'm sure they can but 250 par at 6 inches below water surface. At 100% not only can it burns the leds and decrease the life of them. I know some members of my local reef club, have nicrew and they can get 500 par at 6 inch below water surface..
May benefit from boosting PH a bit. BRS did a investigative video where they proved you can achieve up to 30% more growth with 8.3 average PH instead of 8.1
Can be, however, stability is key. I don't mind if they don't grow as quickly. Rather, these corals were dying, and my issues were the lights par and scheduling, which I corrected. I'll give it a month and see if I get any improvement. Later I'll add kalk to increase pH. But first I want to make sure it was truly the lights
@justinsmallwood4374 True, that is one thing plp were mentioning in my local reef club . On how the biom in the reef plays an important role. That's why I started to dose bacteria and now I'm looking to add pods
@@twinsreef6107 Bacteria & carbon dosing have done wonders to my reef. Also phyto, can’t obviously pinpoint if one’s more beneficial then the other but I believe having a strong micro biome in a reef tank is so crucial
True, before buying mine, I had read in a forum that truly they had better spread but less par. However, everyone was hyping this light and saying how good par they had and even at 40% will be enough, but without showing the receipt. That's why I had to take par reading. I'll look into the lenses. Hopefully, they don't cost an arm and a leg..
I have two AI Primes on one side of the tank and the XR15 G6 Pro on the other side of my 4-foot 75 gallon mixed reef... I know there's definitely some things where all things aren't exactly equal, but the Primes grow corals better. 🤷♂ I have also found that when I started dosing AFR it was my Monti's (all Monti's) that really took off the most.
Thanks, man if i was rich I would lol. I literally paid 1k for both lights and I shouldn't need to add another 500-1k to help them give good par. When their are lights in that same price or under which can out perform when it comes to par.. hope you can understand were I'm coming from. I appreciate your input , it's true adding ai blades will help. I think adding reefbrites will be better..
@twinsreef6107 reefbrites are good, the blades put off a ton of par almost as well as a prime, I'm not sure about reefbrites par but I know they cover decent
The light is not your problem. Way too many successful hobbyists using that light. Based on what I’m seeing, you would benefit from adding the high intensity lens kit. Personally I feel that those light shades are the stupidest product that a Radion owner can add. The Radion performance relies on banking that spread off the glass. If you don’t like, want, or need the extra spread, the high intensity lens kit will be a better option. Also look for a SPS mentor in your area as you can learn a lot more from one voice rather than sifting through many voices. Good luck.
Thank you. The shades work for me because I have children most of the time they are in the living room, and I don't want the blue light to hit them. As for the spread of the light, I'm happy with it because the length of my tank isn't much. I'm going to look into the lens kit. I'm sure there are hobbyist having success my only issue with the light was for its price Im only getting around 250 at 100% and for lights that cost me 1k I shouldn't have to add anything more to it. I like everything else about the lights and I'm going to keep them. Maybe in the future I can add some reefbrites. Definitely joining my local reef club has helped me.
Your issue is your nutrients are a bit high for sps to be happy. Not to mention those shade need to come off and then some fill lights added. Your asking to much from 2 lights for that size tank. I run a 4 foot tank sps only with 2 xr15 with 4 blue plus t5. I’m at 38% intensity and reading 350 par across the top and 150 on the sand.
High nutrients shouldn't kill any coral unless it's creating algae issues. I've taken par reading with and without the shades, and it doesn't affect the par output. My tank isn't as big I was getting better par with my ai hydra and ai prime. Can you please check your par readings at 35% without using 4 t5 bulbs?? I'm really interested what par readings you will get..
Could it be your flow? My SPS tank has an insane amount of flow and all my arcos have awesome polyp extension. The flow I have would never work for a mixed tank. I use a reef breeders photon with 250 - 500 par. I also naturally seem to have super low nutrients too. Good luck.
True, but for a mix reef can be a little different if you want to keep high demanding sps, but that's the problems with trying to keep a mix reef. Their is always going to be a issue lol
@@twinsreef6107 well with lighting problems if you get 100 par on the sand in an 18 inch deep tank it should be 270 PAR at 4 inches below the surface. Which is plenty of PAR for Acro’s and Monti’s as long as you have Nitrate and Phosphate available with an elevated alkalinity. Just keep it stable and keep to a minimum. I’ve actually ran into more problems having too intense of lighting than under lighting
Radions are junk. The g4 was the last of the good leds after that's their junk. They are made in a Chinese plant, and you can find them sold as s8s models. Echotech just bought them and throw there name on it. They no longer make their own designs anymore. So all of you are spending $1000 for light you can bye without the Echotech logo on it for $250. And the funny part is the S8S model comes with Cree leds and a mean well driver.
The light is your problem, as far as intensity is concerned. I run Radion G6 Pros on my tank. I can absolutely confirm that PAR readings are weaker than they should be, at a cost of $529 a pop, on G6 XR15’s. I am seeing much the same. At full intensity, I get about 250 PAR at the top of my aquascape. I have them on EcoTech’s own RMS mount. I’ve just got a standard WaterBox tank, nothing custom or super deep. Relying on light bouncing off the glass to achieve higher PAR, is a faulted strategy, if true, as every reefer’s tank is different. Also, they came out with that lens kit to increase the strength late in the product’s life cycle. Obviously not planned from the outset. They did it to solve the misstep of making a weaker intensity light and catching flak for it, and they expect reefers to pay for the cost of their faulted design approach. In short, it’s not a bad light, but it does lack in intensity, especially for the price point. You’re not crazy or wrong in your findings here. And regardless what Greg Carroll says, in the case of intensity, the light is the problem.
Thank you, I don't want to talk bad on any reefers, but many in the comments and forums can confuse other saying they get 350 pat at 35- 40% intensity. However they also have about 2-4 other light supplements to achieve that and depending what light they use the cost cam rocket.
Facts....I have 3 XR15 G6 Pros over a 35.4"L x 21.7"W x 20.9"H tank and i need crank it up to 80-85% before i get good enough numbers. Keep in mind, I have the narrow lens kit. Just disappointed with the price to par ratio.
@thecityreefer that's business you crank light intensity ansmd shorten life span. So within some years you upgrade. .
I have a mixed reef with Radion G5 I have no problems growing acropora and other sps along with Lps at 60% intensity. I do have a PAR meter, and I'm happy with the numbers. My tank is 4ft with 2 XR15's and 1 XR30.
What are your par reading with just both radions at 60%??
Interesting. Not sure if user error but I have a waterbox 110. 4ft tank and my g5s give me 350 par at about the same depth at 70% (only have whites up to 30%).
Also with nutrients if you arnt testing weekly I would suggest doing so. Stability is key and your nitrate and phos are high. Sps color will suffer with too high of nutrients as well as too low
I believe you get 350 at 70% , how many lights are you running in your tank ??
Think they have brought out new reflectors for the radions to boost the par for those that need it
It shouldn't be like that for their price range, but I understand that it is business. I'll be honest a lot of plp in this social platforms hype up products like this because they are sponsored. However there are other lights that cost less that can outperform this lights. Just my opinion..
@@twinsreef6107 Agree with you 100% I have gen 6's and they work well with my LPS corals (for my needs) but a 20 dollar reflector is a cheaper option than 300 dollar replacement lights. But they should be powerful enough from the off as you say. Or they should offer the reflector as a trade in for the old one as a good will gesture.
Exactly, mine are g6 as well. Can you share the link to the deflectors. I'll definitely look into them .
I have Nicrew hyperreef 150 it’s $300 with controller in Canada. This is 35% white 100% blue 3 inches is 1000 par, 6 inches is 750, 12 inches is 400, 18” is 250
That's one strong light
I have an Apogee 510, a Radion XR 30 Pro G6, and Neptune Sky (bought at launch). About 12 inches under water the Radion has 350 - 400 par at 80% power on PHX14 setting and the Sky is 400 par at 50% power using the Neptune Sky setting.
Definitely the Neptune sky has more punch, I accidentally mistaken one for a radion. Which of the lights do you prefer ??
A mix reef is the hardest tank to keep truly happy. To many corals need something different. Personally i like to keep sps in its own tank. I have never had an issue with soft and LPS together but the flow tends to be the hardest part to deal with once you add SPS.
True , having a mix reef is trying to keep multiple personalities happy.
Sps need stability more then anything, Alk being the big dog but everything needs to be stable and rock solid for them to grow and thrive. They don't like much change and they take forever to get back into their routine after a change happens. Something I've learned is when having issues with sps its just natural to wonder what's wrong in there now but the reality is it could be perfect at that moment but Something 2 weeks back like a big alk swing or salinity change etc could've happend and it's just now showing its face. So never leave out things that may have happend before the the time you notice an issue
In my opinion PH is “big dog”. I have had my alk as high as 12 with no problems.
I can definitely relate to this, that's why it's key to have 2 salinity test kits.
@KentuckyReef I've been thinking if dosing kalk with my all for reef. To try to increase my ph...
@@twinsreef6107 kalk is a good solution, even in small amounts for that reason
@KentuckyReef I'll go with that, if were talking overall levels, PH is plays a huge role but the swings is more of what im referring too, ph don't seem to cause as much as an I'll effect as alk if a major change occurs. As far as running high or low alk it isn't nearly an issue as long as it's stable and the corals are used to it if your said 12 dkh was to drop to 10 or 9 overnight it's gonna be a hard to reverse problem. Doesn't mean certain death always but can cause some serious problems
i see colors popping out dude....looking great...keep on reefing!!!!
Thanks brother, how's the 40g going ??
@@twinsreef6107 its doing great...taking my time
Dont feel wrong I found out the same and I find my sps grow very slow under Radions XR15. Thats why Im switching back to T5
Got to love the market, saturated the market with the blanket of light coverage without the necessary PAR punch, but supplement your 500/ 1000 lights with the A. I blades. Create a problem and come up with the solution
It's sad because before I got the lights, everyone was hyping up this lights, however never showed any receipts regarding par output and if they can grow corals on Their own and I'm sure they can but 250 par at 6 inches below water surface. At 100% not only can it burns the leds and decrease the life of them. I know some members of my local reef club, have nicrew and they can get 500 par at 6 inch below water surface..
May benefit from boosting PH a bit. BRS did a investigative video where they proved you can achieve up to 30% more growth with 8.3 average PH instead of 8.1
Can be, however, stability is key. I don't mind if they don't grow as quickly. Rather, these corals were dying, and my issues were the lights par and scheduling, which I corrected. I'll give it a month and see if I get any improvement. Later I'll add kalk to increase pH. But first I want to make sure it was truly the lights
@justinsmallwood4374 True, that is one thing plp were mentioning in my local reef club . On how the biom in the reef plays an important role. That's why I started to dose bacteria and now I'm looking to add pods
@@twinsreef6107 Bacteria & carbon dosing have done wonders to my reef. Also phyto, can’t obviously pinpoint if one’s more beneficial then the other but I believe having a strong micro biome in a reef tank is so crucial
@justinsmallwood4374 I'll definitely look more into this, thank you for your input.
Looking forward to your video on how you got rid of Dino’s.
Should be out by Monday.
Search BRS XR15 High Intensity Lens Kit.The original G6/ G5 spread was too great with less than ideal PAR punch.
True, before buying mine, I had read in a forum that truly they had better spread but less par. However, everyone was hyping this light and saying how good par they had and even at 40% will be enough, but without showing the receipt. That's why I had to take par reading. I'll look into the lenses. Hopefully, they don't cost an arm and a leg..
I have two AI Primes on one side of the tank and the XR15 G6 Pro on the other side of my 4-foot 75 gallon mixed reef... I know there's definitely some things where all things aren't exactly equal, but the Primes grow corals better. 🤷♂ I have also found that when I started dosing AFR it was my Monti's (all Monti's) that really took off the most.
Loving the mushroom selection 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks, I had a og bounce but when I had transferred my reef to the red sea . I accidentally flushed it
No way!!! I would’ve cried a little inside man 😢
@@simpleaquatics4262 I did 😆
You should of just upgraded your hydra 26 to luxdium leds get them and you have the best lights u can have in the hobby
Try the Ai Blades with your xr15s it'll easily double the output and coverage
Thanks, man if i was rich I would lol. I literally paid 1k for both lights and I shouldn't need to add another 500-1k to help them give good par. When their are lights in that same price or under which can out perform when it comes to par.. hope you can understand were I'm coming from. I appreciate your input , it's true adding ai blades will help. I think adding reefbrites will be better..
@@twinsreef6107 I hear ya, that's another 200 each lol it isn't cheap for sure
@twinsreef6107 reefbrites are good, the blades put off a ton of par almost as well as a prime, I'm not sure about reefbrites par but I know they cover decent
Thus hobby is a luxury, definitely not cheap 😂
I have two xr15 with two blades never tested par but I can say made a big difference I still fell t5s would be the best option
There could be a PAR difference between the model you got as well. Pro or Blue
That I am aware of having blue leds will always have less par.
The light is not your problem. Way too many successful hobbyists using that light. Based on what I’m seeing, you would benefit from adding the high intensity lens kit. Personally I feel that those light shades are the stupidest product that a Radion owner can add. The Radion performance relies on banking that spread off the glass. If you don’t like, want, or need the extra spread, the high intensity lens kit will be a better option. Also look for a SPS mentor in your area as you can learn a lot more from one voice rather than sifting through many voices. Good luck.
Thank you. The shades work for me because I have children most of the time they are in the living room, and I don't want the blue light to hit them. As for the spread of the light, I'm happy with it because the length of my tank isn't much. I'm going to look into the lens kit. I'm sure there are hobbyist having success my only issue with the light was for its price Im only getting around 250 at 100% and for lights that cost me 1k I shouldn't have to add anything more to it. I like everything else about the lights and I'm going to keep them. Maybe in the future I can add some reefbrites. Definitely joining my local reef club has helped me.
@@twinsreef6107lens kits are $20 each. Or pay a couple hundred for some reefbrites!
Agreed. I would use the settings of someone that has been successful with this light. I know WWC has there settings on the website.
Your issue is your nutrients are a bit high for sps to be happy. Not to mention those shade need to come off and then some fill lights added. Your asking to much from 2 lights for that size tank. I run a 4 foot tank sps only with 2 xr15 with 4 blue plus t5. I’m at 38% intensity and reading 350 par across the top and 150 on the sand.
High nutrients shouldn't kill any coral unless it's creating algae issues. I've taken par reading with and without the shades, and it doesn't affect the par output. My tank isn't as big I was getting better par with my ai hydra and ai prime. Can you please check your par readings at 35% without using 4 t5 bulbs?? I'm really interested what par readings you will get..
Could it be your flow? My SPS tank has an insane amount of flow and all my arcos have awesome polyp extension. The flow I have would never work for a mixed tank. I use a reef breeders photon with 250 - 500 par. I also naturally seem to have super low nutrients too. Good luck.
So out of topic but if you have an extra Sunkist you want to trade or sell lmk bro im also in the club and in NorCal 😎
Lol I'm actually selling the mushroom cup next to the jb, it has about 4-6 Sunkist in it
Worst mistake ive made in reefing is buying xr15s. Never again.
@@winstonclyde what lights were you using before
@@twinsreef6107 gen 5
what ph meter do you have????is it good?
Milwaukee, yes they are good. I would recommend them.
What are the res shrooms higher up on the rock?
Which ones exactly??
@twinsreef6107 red* they kinda look like a jawbreaker
The elactus mushrooms ??
@@twinsreef61079:20 the ones in the back growing up the rock
9:20 @twinsreef6107 the ones in the back growing up the rock side
if you can get 100 PAR on the sand, then PAR every where else should fall into place.
True, but for a mix reef can be a little different if you want to keep high demanding sps, but that's the problems with trying to keep a mix reef. Their is always going to be a issue lol
@@twinsreef6107 well with lighting problems if you get 100 par on the sand in an 18 inch deep tank it should be 270 PAR at 4 inches below the surface. Which is plenty of PAR for Acro’s and Monti’s as long as you have Nitrate and Phosphate available with an elevated alkalinity. Just keep it stable and keep to a minimum. I’ve actually ran into more problems having too intense of lighting than under lighting
Are you looking to sell your xr15 g6 and did you end up using that other mp40?
I'm selling both xr15 and mp40
Are they g6 or g5 and how much for both lights and mp40s?
Is your Light G5 or G6?
G6
Are you running G6 or G5?
G6 I've heard g5 have better par
I am running G5s, Does Anyone know what par they give off? @@twinsreef6107
Radions are junk. The g4 was the last of the good leds after that's their junk. They are made in a Chinese plant, and you can find them sold as s8s models. Echotech just bought them and throw there name on it. They no longer make their own designs anymore. So all of you are spending $1000 for light you can bye without the Echotech logo on it for $250. And the funny part is the S8S model comes with Cree leds and a mean well driver.
Yea I've heard others mentioning how the g4 were superior. Regarding the name that's in everything nowadays they just tag a name and you pay premium