I have been watching your vids for almost 2 years, but haven't commented much/ever I love what you did with the set. I already know that corner convergence will clear up with strips. Your work has made me want to fully recap my Toshiba 32AF44, which still has its original caps from 2004. If not a a recap, I should at least clean it. The dirt and grime you showed inside the set last time makes me wonder how dirty mine is. Great video as always, the music during the gameplay is a nice touch!
Thanks and thanks for watching for so long. That's a great Toshiba set. I bet it's worth futurproofing! Good luck and let me know how it goes if you decide to go for it.
@@RetroTechUSA Awesome TV, Could you Retro-Fit one of these with a cannibalized high voltage regulator from a broken PVM/BVM/PGM/Sony TV/VGA Monitor/Arcade Monitor/PC Monitor or make a high voltage regulator of your own design and Retro-Fit that?, what would you charge to ship a JVC 32D501 CRT from the US to UK, I know DHL will ship CRT's by pallet but the price for say a 34inch Sony HD 960/970 widescreen is £1600. Also does The JVC 32D501 work with NTSC & PAL Signals. Thanks
Any chance of releasing that 3rd video? I have two of the 32" D series and they both could use a bit of tuning and calibration. Would love to see how you approach geometry adjustment on a set like this which doesnt have pots for it. Focus adjustments as well
I probably did a similar number of caps in my BVM-2010P. All the high voltage boards, PSU, gun amplifier board, geometry board, geometry control boards from the pull out drawer. Didn't touch the input boards, that side of it seemed ok. Much easier to do 100s of caps when the individual boards can be easily removed and put back. 1980s easily serviceable design. This was also full of soot inside. One day it gave a loud crack which prompted me into doing the recap of the high voltage and geometry circuits. Found a black skid mark on the underside of the gun amplifier board where it sat above the remote focus control unit, suspect the soot buildup caused something to arc. Took the monitor outside and got the air compressor and paint brush on the interior. It's been perfect since.
Great job. I've got a BVM that needs completely recapping. It's a 14F5U. I'll have to change the Electrolytic and SMD caps in it. It's going to be a bigger job than this was, but at least I've got the part lists ahead of time. The BVMs do have great serviceable designs usually. Thanks for the comment
This is beautiful to watch and learn from, thankyou. I have three CRTs. A Daewoo(small), a Trinitron kv-24ls35u(medium sized) and a Trinitron kv-ar34m81(absolute behomoth). They all need internal work as the service menus only do so much for the geometry. I plan on restoring them smallest to largest. I'm a little nervous but excited too. I will of course be extremely careful having watched most of if not all your safety videos. Something I didn't know about CRTs which I learned yesterday, make sure they are facing east or west so the earth's magnetic field isn't affecting the geometry.
Great work man! I have a Sony 36" fairly late model with component but not HDMI, 4:3 aspect ratio and a totally flat face. It's overall pretty good but need some expert tuning and I guess magnet replacement/upgrade, geometry help (I know the flat CRTs are less ideal for this,. but I still know it could be better), and above all some sections are worse on convergence. I'm thinking of driving with my son from my home in North Texas to visit the USAF museum in Dayton Ohio. If I rent a van or something large enough, I could bring the thing and perhaps meet you on the way out, and then pick it up on the way home. I could bring some interesting NWC and retro stuff along with cash. Lmk what ya think. I don't really know or trust anyone around here with it, and I don't want to practice on it as I've never done any CRT work beyond twiddling the pots.
I have this exact set in my rec room. When I run a grid pattern, as you get toward the edge, the lines start to squiggle. It's also a problem when there is a bright screen and lines start to bend. I'm thinking a cap replacement would fix these but I am not capable of doing it myself. There is a guy in the town next to me who does it but I can imagine a complete recap of a CRT would cost a fortune. Oh well, I will live vicariously through your channel :P Great work on the videos man.
Hey Retro, really enjoy watching your posts on tv repair and calibration man, thumbs up. Wish I could afford a PVM or BVM but for now I’ll have to settle with Craigslist consumer tubes :-) Hey quick question for you. I’ve repaired a couple Wells Gardner K7000 chassis and done full recaps and it appears the decent kits that you can buy are mainly Nichicon caps. I know that Japanese caps are the way to go but I was wondering if you have a preference, Nichicon, Rubycon, Nippon Chemi-Con, Panasonic, etc.?. I’m going to be doing a full recapping of a 27” JVC i’Art that I scooped up and I want to baby this one so it lasts a long time. Thanks for your advice Retro and please keep up this fun hobby of yours. Always fun the watch and learn from you. Adam
I was looking at a JVC unit like this one the other day at a Salvation Army branch Steve. It was sold and I recommended the new owner to watch your channel to help keep your unit to operate correctly with the help of your guidance bro. 8^) Anthony..
Amazing stuff. Do you feel that the focus is better(if you had issues with it before) after the recap? The biggest issue I keep hearing from others about the D-series is focus, particularly about not being able to get both edge and center focus in. I didn't see it as a big deal until I checked my own two sets and sure enough both of them could only get totally focused on either the center or the edges. Just wondering if this is to do with caps or with the flyback since it's widespread and you've replaced all the caps! Thanks for all you do Steve, cheers
This thing is so big. It definitely has troubles with focus along the edges and corners of the picture. It's sharpest in the middle 85% of the screens surface area. I'll go over this a little more in the coming calibration video. Thanks
Retro Tech I have 2 JVC D-Series (one 27 inch and one 32 inch), and both are focused in the center and not focused around the edges, especially the corners. I haven’t tried tuning focus on the flyback and have not yet recapped or replaced the flyback. The blurry corners are only noticeable in some of 240p test suite’s tests. Still, would be great to know how to improve.
What an awesome restoration! Really great work here, which makes me want to do it myself on my sony kv29fx30e :). But I'm a total amateure, so maybe I'll start with a little crt, the sony kv14t1d. I also watched your videos on how to build and order a cap-list, which was really helpful. Btw, did you correct the convergence on this crt in the meantime? Greetings and have a great new year!
Looks awesome. I know u mentioned and showed in the prior video that the image quality was still pretty good on this set before the recap, so I was curious to know if u noticed anything (specifically visually) that ended up being improved upon once the full recap was complete? Thanks Steve 👍
Thanks Karl. I did notice a bit of a bump in quality. I will do a follow up video going over everything that I found to be an improvement on the TV after servicing. I'll probably combine that with the calibration video for this set.
Can you post pictures or shots of the 240p test suite checkerboard test patter and the horizontal stripes test pattern? Those make focus calibration issues very obvious.
Flux is absolutely your best friend. You can make the cleanup easier by using certain types of flux which tend to respond more favorably to the kind of heat being used. Many of the gel or the thinner paste type fluxes that you can buy in syringe dispensers are designed not to burn onto the board quite as easily, so cleanup is typically a little bit easier when using that type. Regardless, when in doubt, apply a generous glob of flux.
Were there any specific signs with how the tv was acting that made you re-cap the whole thing? I’m curious because I have two Sony trinitron flat tube consumer TVs one is 32 inch and the other 27 and they both have a slight wavy look to them. A steady image, the menus for instance, will move left and right slowly maybe a few millimeters if that. Is that a sign of the caps going out and needing to be replaced? I’d really appreciate some input cause I don’t want to get rid of the TVs if I’m able to fix it by replacing the capacitors.
I am really into these old CRTs, bought a Sony VGA monitor recently. Only opened up to remove the back housing to clean it but I I do have a Sony CRT SCART TV which once worked and now only a blinking red light. I am tempted to replace all the caps but am concerned it won't do it. Do you have a video on this issue. Love your channel.
How similar are these to the 32 inch version? Mine is a D series 32 501 and I'm slowly becoming more confident in trying a recap (mine has a very slight blue spot on the left and yellow on the right when displaying white, and the gemotery is a bit worse than I feel it should be). Also, hoping for a very rough ETA for the follow up calibration video. Looking forward to seeing if the magnets worked.
Hi there, was wondering if you could answer a question about desoldering. What's the temperature you are using on the hakko? I was using between 275-300C and some of the pads weren't looking so good after i had to reheat them when the cap's legs got stuck to solder residue.
I know it's impossible, but I always wondered what would happen if sony and jvc made CRT TVs again for one final run..... Would they sell? I think so. The retro community would go nuts. They could probably make them a little lighter and with a much cleaner picture.
Just out of curiosity, did you go through and check the pulled capacitors to see actually how many were out of spec when you were done? Also, was wondering if you know of any adjustment or component that could be replaced to improve the very tiny micro-wobble of images on a crt. Im not sure of the technical term for what Im seeing, its almost like a micro-jitter. If you put up a 240p image of some white text for example, and look REALLY closely, you will see some very slight movement or "micro-jitter" of the edges of the text. Ive noticed this on several consumer 15KHz sets, but when I look at a 31KHz VGA CRT, the image appears perfectly still. This may simply be how 15KHz CRTs operate, but Ive noticed some seem to be a little worse than others. It doesnt appear to be a convergence issue. Do you think the focus adjustment pot could affect this? Any other ideas?
I have a vibrating image on a Sony fs120. It looks like dot crawl which is an artifact of composite video but it happens on mine even with component. I plan on doing a recap soon and hope its a bad cap in the horizontal deflection circuit
I have a working 36" D series I got for free off of Facebook market place. It was my first non Sony recovery. From what I read they were special. Well I feel lucky and wish I was as thorough as you. I will go till it doesent work and decide then asd I have collected close to 12 32" trinitrons so I have like 500 years of CRT and Im not finished as they are easy pickings if you like the silver ones, the black ones are more rare but also older. anyways thanks for the video, it will help me one day. wait a minute, do you still have your capacitor list, perhaps I could get a copy of it since you did the leg work already? please and thanks G.
I tried to replace caps on a JVC D-Series board but the little rings would keep coming off, it was the weakest board I ever touched. I had to give up since I kept lifting / removing the rings.
When you make your cap list, how do you know if you need low esr or standard ones? I made a list and recapped a Commodore 1084, and luckily the service manual lists them, also with the designation universal type or low esr (basically just the horizontal witdh cap needed to be low esr & bipolar). Do you use "just" good brands 105° electrolytics?
Thanks for your videos, you have inspired me to work on my own CRT televisions. I have a Sony KV-36FV310 that I would like to future proof by changing the capacitors. I have the service manual for this particular model as well. I'm assuming by the wording of the manual that "ELECT" along with uF, a percentage and voltage value describes an electrolytic capacitor. Can I directly input these values into my search when I purchase them online? It has each one listed for each board. Will this give me the correct quantity for the entire TV?
That should generally work, yes. I would usually get ~50% more of each cap than I need, just for spares and for future projects. Also, to save yourself time, I would not bother with getting specific voltage caps. So long as the voltage rating is equal to or higher than the one in the manual, you're fine. Instead of buying a 16v 220uF cap, a 25v 220uF cap, and a 50v 220uF cap, save yourself the trouble and get all 50v caps for that particular capacitance, for example.
My trusty 32" JVC that I've had for years just broke recently. I went into where I have the TV, it was off when I knew it was on, and there was a burning electronics/metal smell. 😭😭 I need to find somewhere local to get it repaired because I don't want to give up on it just yet.
Does doing this take care of that "focus drift" where even adjusting the focus pot on flyback can't get focus all throughout the screen? Some say most of the old D series in the wild have softened focus outside the center, and adjusting the focus pot can't fix it fully. I have that issue with mine. Got a 32" with the same line count as this one!@
Focus drift is often either the tube or the focus potentiometer. When very dirty / tar stained, it can also be tracking inside the tube socket or on the PCB.
Very good job I am working on a very nice Lg 32FZ4D love the picture of this Tv I used it for all my retro console that have hdmi output it looks like the arcade monitors from back in the day very good capacitor choice I always use nichicon caps especially 105 this last a long time glad to see use those all for the love of the crt good job bro keep it up love what you do and the money will fallow sincerely AMC
Thank you. Sounds like a great CRT. I always recommend trying to step up to the 105° caps whenever possible inside a CRT. It's worth it. Have a great day.
Do you think that would make it compatible with 30hz? I have the exact same TV and when I have my Wii plugged into it and playing 30 hz games, it's so jittery and there's some double frame nonsense going on. Significantly more blurry than the worst LCD I've ever used, it's very unplayable. 60i looks great. Even games like Kirby and the Crystal Shards experience this jitteryness and double frame ghosting.
This is because his SNES is being hooked up through Component input on a 1 chip SNES which has voultars RGB mod done too it. All 1 chip SNES output nice RGB signals. The mod just cleans it up even more. The HDRetroVision cables pull the RGB signal and provide component hookups. He is talking about adding a SCART socket to the TV I think. Not overly necessary, unless a lot of your stuff already has a SCART cable for it. Component inputs accept a wonderful RGB signal as well. Quality is basically identical. Just depends on what options you have in terms of how your devices connect to the TV.
I picked up 36 d series in silver color about 4 month ago. Its amazing tv but in some games i see a little rainbow color on top border corner almost unnoticeable. Is it possible to fix it or just leave it the way it is?
Maybe it's later on or I missed it, but when you announce what you're going to do, you don't mention why you decided to change all 158 capacitors, of which 100 or maybe even closer to 150 are likely to have tens of years of life left in them.
im gonna do this with my hd cRT Samsung.. just to make sure i wonta have to replace any other capacitor in some time.. for now i found out it was completely dead cause the H.O.T. was shorted.. luckily I found a replacement. but i need to know what caused it to get shorted.. i found the primary is ok since im getting correct voltaje after the Chopper transformer in the +B could anyone suggest spots to test voltage after the diode that rectifies +B¿ Damn I wish I could speak better English
Unfortunately that would be pointless because caps go in and out of stock constantly. So now 4 years later, the list would be all back order and out of stock parts.
I think nichicons are a bit overrated for this application. They have a good reputation for their audio cap series. Personally i go with Rubycon's long life series. They can last over 10 000h and cost quarter of the price while being made in Japan. For comparison the stock nichicons were 2000h rated.
@@RetroTechUSA Ooh, I'm sorry to hear that. Lumps on the head are caused from the brain sloshing around in the skull. I had had a shiner once. Not fun. Play some consecutive Sudoku and crosswords, to make up for any gray matter lost.
I have been watching your vids for almost 2 years, but haven't commented much/ever
I love what you did with the set. I already know that corner convergence will clear up with strips. Your work has made me want to fully recap my Toshiba 32AF44, which still has its original caps from 2004. If not a a recap, I should at least clean it. The dirt and grime you showed inside the set last time makes me wonder how dirty mine is.
Great video as always, the music during the gameplay is a nice touch!
Thanks and thanks for watching for so long. That's a great Toshiba set. I bet it's worth futurproofing! Good luck and let me know how it goes if you decide to go for it.
this is awesome thank you for all the guidance.
Your welcome and thanks for watching
@@RetroTechUSA Awesome TV, Could you Retro-Fit one of these with a cannibalized high voltage regulator from a broken PVM/BVM/PGM/Sony TV/VGA Monitor/Arcade Monitor/PC Monitor or make a high voltage regulator of your own design and Retro-Fit that?, what would you charge to ship a JVC 32D501 CRT from the US to UK, I know DHL will ship CRT's by pallet but the price for say a 34inch Sony HD 960/970 widescreen is £1600. Also does The JVC 32D501 work with NTSC & PAL Signals. Thanks
im prison mike
What a beautiful job, thanks for sharing. Beautiful TV very rare to see one of these nowadays.
Thanks
Great work! I really apprecaite your work.
Thanks!
Come and leave a message for the first time. Glad to see your video again. I hope you will teach everyone how to tune together.
Thanks, I will have an adjustment & calibration video coming soon.
Any chance of releasing that 3rd video?
I have two of the 32" D series and they both could use a bit of tuning and calibration. Would love to see how you approach geometry adjustment on a set like this which doesnt have pots for it. Focus adjustments as well
I just aquired an AV-60D501.
Winter project!
I wish someone like you living in Ireland !!
Wow. Outstanding picture and well worth the time I bet. Nice video. Very informative and thanks!
I found the service manual for my Sony KV-20FV300, it has a capacitor list and specs of each Cap on the entire assembly. Really helpful.
When is the follow up video to adjust this? I just picked up a AV32D501 and it would be supremely helpful.
I probably did a similar number of caps in my BVM-2010P. All the high voltage boards, PSU, gun amplifier board, geometry board, geometry control boards from the pull out drawer. Didn't touch the input boards, that side of it seemed ok. Much easier to do 100s of caps when the individual boards can be easily removed and put back. 1980s easily serviceable design. This was also full of soot inside. One day it gave a loud crack which prompted me into doing the recap of the high voltage and geometry circuits. Found a black skid mark on the underside of the gun amplifier board where it sat above the remote focus control unit, suspect the soot buildup caused something to arc. Took the monitor outside and got the air compressor and paint brush on the interior. It's been perfect since.
Great job. I've got a BVM that needs completely recapping. It's a 14F5U. I'll have to change the Electrolytic and SMD caps in it. It's going to be a bigger job than this was, but at least I've got the part lists ahead of time. The BVMs do have great serviceable designs usually. Thanks for the comment
This is beautiful to watch and learn from, thankyou. I have three CRTs. A Daewoo(small), a Trinitron kv-24ls35u(medium sized) and a Trinitron kv-ar34m81(absolute behomoth). They all need internal work as the service menus only do so much for the geometry. I plan on restoring them smallest to largest. I'm a little nervous but excited too. I will of course be extremely careful having watched most of if not all your safety videos. Something I didn't know about CRTs which I learned yesterday, make sure they are facing east or west so the earth's magnetic field isn't affecting the geometry.
"Someone who smoked heavily inside of it."
We're you able to clean him out of there? That guy must have been pretty cramped.
A+ Any info you can share on re-capping a JVC TM-H? Cap map and specs would be grand and a great help.
Looking forward to the follow up someday!
Great work man! I have a Sony 36" fairly late model with component but not HDMI, 4:3 aspect ratio and a totally flat face. It's overall pretty good but need some expert tuning and I guess magnet replacement/upgrade, geometry help (I know the flat CRTs are less ideal for this,. but I still know it could be better), and above all some sections are worse on convergence.
I'm thinking of driving with my son from my home in North Texas to visit the USAF museum in Dayton Ohio. If I rent a van or something large enough, I could bring the thing and perhaps meet you on the way out, and then pick it up on the way home. I could bring some interesting NWC and retro stuff along with cash. Lmk what ya think. I don't really know or trust anyone around here with it, and I don't want to practice on it as I've never done any CRT work beyond twiddling the pots.
I have this exact set in my rec room. When I run a grid pattern, as you get toward the edge, the lines start to squiggle. It's also a problem when there is a bright screen and lines start to bend. I'm thinking a cap replacement would fix these but I am not capable of doing it myself. There is a guy in the town next to me who does it but I can imagine a complete recap of a CRT would cost a fortune. Oh well, I will live vicariously through your channel :P Great work on the videos man.
Hey Retro, really enjoy watching your posts on tv repair and calibration man, thumbs up. Wish I could afford a PVM or BVM but for now I’ll have to settle with Craigslist consumer tubes :-) Hey quick question for you. I’ve repaired a couple Wells Gardner K7000 chassis and done full recaps and it appears the decent kits that you can buy are mainly Nichicon caps. I know that Japanese caps are the way to go but I was wondering if you have a preference, Nichicon, Rubycon, Nippon Chemi-Con, Panasonic, etc.?. I’m going to be doing a full recapping of a 27” JVC i’Art that I scooped up and I want to baby this one so it lasts a long time.
Thanks for your advice Retro and please keep up this fun hobby of yours. Always fun the watch and learn from you.
Adam
I was looking at a JVC unit like this one the other day at a Salvation Army branch Steve. It was sold and I recommended the new owner to watch your channel to help keep your unit to operate correctly with the help of your guidance bro. 8^)
Anthony..
Wow, thanks that's cool. I love seeing these CRTs still in thrift stores. Many have stopped accepting them, understandable but unfortunate.
Steve
Amazing stuff. Do you feel that the focus is better(if you had issues with it before) after the recap? The biggest issue I keep hearing from others about the D-series is focus, particularly about not being able to get both edge and center focus in. I didn't see it as a big deal until I checked my own two sets and sure enough both of them could only get totally focused on either the center or the edges. Just wondering if this is to do with caps or with the flyback since it's widespread and you've replaced all the caps! Thanks for all you do Steve, cheers
This thing is so big. It definitely has troubles with focus along the edges and corners of the picture. It's sharpest in the middle 85% of the screens surface area. I'll go over this a little more in the coming calibration video. Thanks
Retro Tech I have 2 JVC D-Series (one 27 inch and one 32 inch), and both are focused in the center and not focused around the edges, especially the corners. I haven’t tried tuning focus on the flyback and have not yet recapped or replaced the flyback. The blurry corners are only noticeable in some of 240p test suite’s tests. Still, would be great to know how to improve.
So Awesome,I still have my old CRT that has Component inputs, so tempted to RE-CAP.
You have amazing content on this channel. Thanks for the valuable inforomation you provide us with 🙏🏼.
Thank you
What an awesome restoration! Really great work here, which makes me want to do it myself on my sony kv29fx30e :). But I'm a total amateure, so maybe I'll start with a little crt, the sony kv14t1d. I also watched your videos on how to build and order a cap-list, which was really helpful. Btw, did you correct the convergence on this crt in the meantime?
Greetings and have a great new year!
Looks awesome. I know u mentioned and showed in the prior video that the image quality was still pretty good on this set before the recap, so I was curious to know if u noticed anything (specifically visually) that ended up being improved upon once the full recap was complete? Thanks Steve 👍
Thanks Karl. I did notice a bit of a bump in quality. I will do a follow up video going over everything that I found to be an improvement on the TV after servicing. I'll probably combine that with the calibration video for this set.
Can you post pictures or shots of the 240p test suite checkerboard test patter and the horizontal stripes test pattern? Those make focus calibration issues very obvious.
Flux is absolutely your best friend. You can make the cleanup easier by using certain types of flux which tend to respond more favorably to the kind of heat being used. Many of the gel or the thinner paste type fluxes that you can buy in syringe dispensers are designed not to burn onto the board quite as easily, so cleanup is typically a little bit easier when using that type. Regardless, when in doubt, apply a generous glob of flux.
Were there any specific signs with how the tv was acting that made you re-cap the whole thing? I’m curious because I have two Sony trinitron flat tube consumer TVs one is 32 inch and the other 27 and they both have a slight wavy look to them. A steady image, the menus for instance, will move left and right slowly maybe a few millimeters if that. Is that a sign of the caps going out and needing to be replaced? I’d really appreciate some input cause I don’t want to get rid of the TVs if I’m able to fix it by replacing the capacitors.
My trini has the same problem. Did you find any solutions?
Do you have the cap list posted somewhere or could you share? Would be fantastic for us D series owners!! :)
I've got to go back and clean up some typos, but I'll be trying to post it somewhere more permanent soon. Thanks
I am really into these old CRTs, bought a Sony VGA monitor recently. Only opened up to remove the back housing to clean it but I I do have a Sony CRT SCART TV which once worked and now only a blinking red light. I am tempted to replace all the caps but am concerned it won't do it. Do you have a video on this issue. Love your channel.
How similar are these to the 32 inch version? Mine is a D series 32 501 and I'm slowly becoming more confident in trying a recap (mine has a very slight blue spot on the left and yellow on the right when displaying white, and the gemotery is a bit worse than I feel it should be). Also, hoping for a very rough ETA for the follow up calibration video. Looking forward to seeing if the magnets worked.
Did you do the recap? I also have 32D501 and I’m still looking for the service manual for 3 years now.
@@SkyChurch11 sadly, no. It's a relatively low priority now. Lots of other projects.
Hi there, was wondering if you could answer a question about desoldering. What's the temperature you are using on the hakko?
I was using between 275-300C and some of the pads weren't looking so good after i had to reheat them when the cap's legs got stuck to solder residue.
24:30 Hello. What is the name of the product for tube connection? regards, Ronny
I know it's impossible, but I always wondered what would happen if sony and jvc made CRT TVs again for one final run.....
Would they sell?
I think so. The retro community would go nuts. They could probably make them a little lighter and with a much cleaner picture.
My dream ❤
Just out of curiosity, did you go through and check the pulled capacitors to see actually how many were out of spec when you were done? Also, was wondering if you know of any adjustment or component that could be replaced to improve the very tiny micro-wobble of images on a crt. Im not sure of the technical term for what Im seeing, its almost like a micro-jitter. If you put up a 240p image of some white text for example, and look REALLY closely, you will see some very slight movement or "micro-jitter" of the edges of the text. Ive noticed this on several consumer 15KHz sets, but when I look at a 31KHz VGA CRT, the image appears perfectly still. This may simply be how 15KHz CRTs operate, but Ive noticed some seem to be a little worse than others. It doesnt appear to be a convergence issue. Do you think the focus adjustment pot could affect this? Any other ideas?
I have a vibrating image on a Sony fs120. It looks like dot crawl which is an artifact of composite video but it happens on mine even with component.
I plan on doing a recap soon and hope its a bad cap in the horizontal deflection circuit
This has been a fun little series! Are you still planning on releasing the calibration video for this TV?
Amazing video, I would like to this treatment to my KV-36FV310 plus RGB mod! A lot of work and tools needed.
Thanks. Yes you do need at least a couple good tools.
I have a working 36" D series I got for free off of Facebook market place. It was my first non Sony recovery. From what I read they were special. Well I feel lucky and wish I was as thorough as you. I will go till it doesent work and decide then asd I have collected close to 12 32" trinitrons so I have like 500 years of CRT and Im not finished as they are easy pickings if you like the silver ones, the black ones are more rare but also older.
anyways thanks for the video, it will help me one day.
wait a minute, do you still have your capacitor list, perhaps I could get a copy of it since you did the leg work already?
please and thanks
G.
I tried to replace caps on a JVC D-Series board but the little rings would keep coming off, it was the weakest board I ever touched. I had to give up since I kept lifting / removing the rings.
When you make your cap list, how do you know if you need low esr or standard ones? I made a list and recapped a Commodore 1084, and luckily the service manual lists them, also with the designation universal type or low esr (basically just the horizontal witdh cap needed to be low esr & bipolar). Do you use "just" good brands 105° electrolytics?
did you ever manage to dial in the convergence in that corner? do you still plan to make a video on it?
Thanks for your videos, you have inspired me to work on my own CRT televisions. I have a Sony KV-36FV310 that I would like to future proof by changing the capacitors. I have the service manual for this particular model as well. I'm assuming by the wording of the manual that "ELECT" along with uF, a percentage and voltage value describes an electrolytic capacitor. Can I directly input these values into my search when I purchase them online? It has each one listed for each board. Will this give me the correct quantity for the entire TV?
That should generally work, yes. I would usually get ~50% more of each cap than I need, just for spares and for future projects. Also, to save yourself time, I would not bother with getting specific voltage caps. So long as the voltage rating is equal to or higher than the one in the manual, you're fine. Instead of buying a 16v 220uF cap, a 25v 220uF cap, and a 50v 220uF cap, save yourself the trouble and get all 50v caps for that particular capacitance, for example.
Thanks for the information.
My trusty 32" JVC that I've had for years just broke recently. I went into where I have the TV, it was off when I knew it was on, and there was a burning electronics/metal smell. 😭😭
I need to find somewhere local to get it repaired because I don't want to give up on it just yet.
Does doing this take care of that "focus drift" where even adjusting the focus pot on flyback can't get focus all throughout the screen? Some say most of the old D series in the wild have softened focus outside the center, and adjusting the focus pot can't fix it fully. I have that issue with mine. Got a 32" with the same line count as this one!@
Focus drift is often either the tube or the focus potentiometer. When very dirty / tar stained, it can also be tracking inside the tube socket or on the PCB.
good job on the recap not a easy job ! stil looking for my first crt tv in the netherlands this one is close to my home ! Bang & Olufsen mx7000 sw4.7
Thanks it was kind of nerve wracking to be honest.
How much does all of this typically cost in just the capacitors?
Very good job I am working on a very nice Lg 32FZ4D love the picture of this Tv I used it for all my retro console that have hdmi output it looks like the arcade monitors from back in the day very good capacitor choice I always use nichicon caps especially 105 this last a long time glad to see use those all for the love of the crt good job bro keep it up love what you do and the money will fallow sincerely AMC
Thank you. Sounds like a great CRT. I always recommend trying to step up to the 105° caps whenever possible inside a CRT. It's worth it. Have a great day.
did you RGB mod it already?
I have a JVC AV32D501 and I'm thinking of modding it.
Do you think that would make it compatible with 30hz? I have the exact same TV and when I have my Wii plugged into it and playing 30 hz games, it's so jittery and there's some double frame nonsense going on. Significantly more blurry than the worst LCD I've ever used, it's very unplayable. 60i looks great. Even games like Kirby and the Crystal Shards experience this jitteryness and double frame ghosting.
@@awesomeferret I got same result on my PS2. I used had retrovisions component and monster s video.
I would usually go about it taking out every single capacitor of specific value, afterwards right out replacing them with new ones.
O it's so Nice! please help me my Tv is JVC crt light is ok but no picture and sound pleas tell me what is fault?
I would love to do this. I have the same tv in a 27 inch screen
Great stuff can’t wait for the rgb mod!
Thanks
This video series wants me to recap and restore my Sanyo Vizon crt
The yoke on this looks exactly like the yoke on my Finlux 32". I bet they are made by the same company.
Why as soft-bristle brush? Why not a gard-bristle brush?
Any chance you'd sell that?
The video quality on that screen is so amazing I assume it was already rgb modded
This is because his SNES is being hooked up through Component input on a 1 chip SNES which has voultars RGB mod done too it. All 1 chip SNES output nice RGB signals. The mod just cleans it up even more.
The HDRetroVision cables pull the RGB signal and provide component hookups.
He is talking about adding a SCART socket to the TV I think. Not overly necessary, unless a lot of your stuff already has a SCART cable for it. Component inputs accept a wonderful RGB signal as well. Quality is basically identical. Just depends on what options you have in terms of how your devices connect to the TV.
Thank you for all you knowledge and time to put it on videos, i have a question there is a way to mod a pvm 14n5u with an scart rgb mod
Thanks. There is a way to mod those. It's a pretty lengthy process that I've wanted to make a video on for a long time.
Outstanding.
Thanks
Those corners can't be corrected 100% because of the wild angles the RGB electron guns have in those parts of the tube.
I picked up 36 d series in silver color about 4 month ago. Its amazing tv but in some games i see a little rainbow color on top border corner almost unnoticeable. Is it possible to fix it or just leave it the way it is?
Is it worse than what I show in the videos on this JVC?
Retro Tech about the same
Maybe it's later on or I missed it, but when you announce what you're going to do, you don't mention why you decided to change all 158 capacitors, of which 100 or maybe even closer to 150 are likely to have tens of years of life left in them.
im gonna do this with my hd cRT Samsung.. just to make sure i wonta have to replace any other capacitor in some time..
for now i found out it was completely dead cause the H.O.T. was shorted.. luckily I found a replacement. but i need to know what caused it to get shorted.. i found the primary is ok since im getting correct voltaje after the Chopper transformer in the +B
could anyone suggest spots to test voltage after the diode that rectifies +B¿
Damn I wish I could speak better English
I would put a digikey or mouser cart link in the description in case anyone else wants to recap their set
Unfortunately that would be pointless because caps go in and out of stock constantly. So now 4 years later, the list would be all back order and out of stock parts.
Wooow ..this component / rgb signal on crt monitor 😵✌
Nice work, dude! Very tedious and intimidating for me...
Steve, would you be willing to sell this tv?
you are like splinter and us viewers are the ninja turtles
I think nichicons are a bit overrated for this application. They have a good reputation for their audio cap series. Personally i go with Rubycon's long life series. They can last over 10 000h and cost quarter of the price while being made in Japan. For comparison the stock nichicons were 2000h rated.
I bet your head-knock, misaligned the electron guns (convergence).
@aerobert Oh.
Yeah it was pretty much the same before and after. It was was a pretty hard knock. I still have a bump on my head.
@@RetroTechUSA Ooh, I'm sorry to hear that. Lumps on the head are caused from the brain sloshing around in the skull. I had had a shiner once. Not fun. Play some consecutive Sudoku and crosswords, to make up for any gray matter lost.
There is no capacitor in a CRT, except itself being a capacitor.
if you didnt exist i guarantee all this knowledge of crts would be lost