Great video. It's always a good idea to check the running clearances of the journals with the bearings in place. Use something like plasigauge to be safe
Great videos and a lot of useful information, especially for a newbie like my self. Actually gonna start my first mini engine rebuild this week, almost done with the body. Keep them coming
I may be wrong but i was told never to line ring gaps in line with the pin or on the thrust side skirts of the piston. Put you ring compressor on first before putting pistons in then tape the top of the compressor to ensure its sitting flat that way you wont break a ring☹
Yehp I was going to say that also. Fit the compressor then insert piston into bore and make sure the compressor is flat the entire way around onto block face then tap the piston In. Also mention that you can't spread the top rings outwards very much when fitting or they will snap.
I was never taught that in my Diesel engine classes but that doesn’t mean it’s wrong. Good info, I have never thought about it but I’m definitely going to do some more research on it now. That said I have done about 6 engines without any problems so far knock on wood. 😂
@@classicminidiy this is why we are all here tho . Sooo much info from people all around the globe and even just 1 tiny thing can change your practice's for ever. I love you tube
Keep in mind, that the piston rings still move around in the engine. It is designed like that. Best advice I can give, is get a proper piston ring compressor, since it's not worth the agony. And you can even gauge the cylinder wall with a snapped ring!
My 4 pistons fit perfectly, but i can hardly turn the crankshaft by hand (even with some oil in the cylinders). It was possible with 3 but 4 is too much. Btw i'm sorry for your segment, but your mistake makes me very careful :p so thank you !
Can you put a long pry bar in the keyway on the end of the crank (the side that the clutch/primary gear sits on) and then spin it easily with a bit of added torque?
@@classicminidiy Yep, well seems that my 2 and 4 were inverted. The seller of the engine put all the pistons in a box without any inscriptions on them ... And thx with a pry bar it's much better now ! I can move on your next episode :)
Havn't calculated it tbh. Keeping head standard and only increasing bore size. My guess is it will probably be about the same as it was before with the d-top pistons.
@@classicminidiy Don't the D-Top pistons sit up higher? Seems flat top pistons will not sit up as high as flat top and you will have lower compression?
This is so cool ! I'm rebuilding a 1098 from the 70", is there anything i should be aware of or is it exactly like an 998 ? (i'm exactly at the same stage than you are)
So far it’s been the exact same. The main differences I have seen have been the cylinder head valve springs and the 3-syncro gearbox. I’m sure you are enjoying your rebuild as well? I love putting together engines.
@@classicminidiy absolutely and I love it ! It's my first one, and thx to your channel I'm getting into it without any troubles so far. But I'm gonna put a 86 gearbox with it (the original one is in a very bad shape).
Cole, Top video and great tips you covered every detail on a bottom the end build looking forward to the rest of the build, Cheers Dave
Awesome video! Perfectly described, with the little extra details where the devil hides. :)
Ps: i have smacked my piston ring the same way
Great video. It's always a good idea to check the running clearances of the journals with the bearings in place. Use something like plasigauge to be safe
Great videos and a lot of useful information, especially for a newbie like my self.
Actually gonna start my first mini engine rebuild this week, almost done with the body.
Keep them coming
Did you bother to check the ring gaps in the bore…… a very important procedure
Great video, enjoyed watching that :)
Thank you!
Good Info Cole and well presented...
Great Video Cole, really informative and easy to follow. Love content like this :)
I may be wrong but i was told never to line ring gaps in line with the pin or on the thrust side skirts of the piston. Put you ring compressor on first before putting pistons in then tape the top of the compressor to ensure its sitting flat that way you wont break a ring☹
Yehp I was going to say that also. Fit the compressor then insert piston into bore and make sure the compressor is flat the entire way around onto block face then tap the piston In. Also mention that you can't spread the top rings outwards very much when fitting or they will snap.
@@harow69 i also use feeler gauges to stop the piston getting scratched when fitting rings
I was never taught that in my Diesel engine classes but that doesn’t mean it’s wrong. Good info, I have never thought about it but I’m definitely going to do some more research on it now. That said I have done about 6 engines without any problems so far knock on wood. 😂
@@classicminidiy this is why we are all here tho . Sooo much info from people all around the globe and even just 1 tiny thing can change your practice's for ever. I love you tube
Keep in mind, that the piston rings still move around in the engine.
It is designed like that.
Best advice I can give, is get a proper piston ring compressor, since it's not worth the agony.
And you can even gauge the cylinder wall with a snapped ring!
Do the ARP bolts not require the locking tabs?
Depends on the application but the various ARP kits they sell for the mini do not require lock tabs when torqued to the correct torque spec.
My 4 pistons fit perfectly, but i can hardly turn the crankshaft by hand (even with some oil in the cylinders). It was possible with 3 but 4 is too much. Btw i'm sorry for your segment, but your mistake makes me very careful :p so thank you !
Can you put a long pry bar in the keyway on the end of the crank (the side that the clutch/primary gear sits on) and then spin it easily with a bit of added torque?
@@classicminidiy Yep, well seems that my 2 and 4 were inverted. The seller of the engine put all the pistons in a box without any inscriptions on them ... And thx with a pry bar it's much better now ! I can move on your next episode :)
What’s the calculated compression ratio?
Havn't calculated it tbh. Keeping head standard and only increasing bore size. My guess is it will probably be about the same as it was before with the d-top pistons.
@@classicminidiy Don't the D-Top pistons sit up higher? Seems flat top pistons will not sit up as high as flat top and you will have lower compression?
This is so cool ! I'm rebuilding a 1098 from the 70", is there anything i should be aware of or is it exactly like an 998 ? (i'm exactly at the same stage than you are)
So far it’s been the exact same. The main differences I have seen have been the cylinder head valve springs and the 3-syncro gearbox. I’m sure you are enjoying your rebuild as well? I love putting together engines.
@@classicminidiy absolutely and I love it ! It's my first one, and thx to your channel I'm getting into it without any troubles so far. But I'm gonna put a 86 gearbox with it (the original one is in a very bad shape).