About 1975 My MK2 Mini had done 100,000 Miles, still ran well. Decided that I'd do a rebuild anyway. As yours, crank was perfect, fitted new shells, piston rings, water pump, duplex timing gear, Cooper 998 (AEA630) cam, duplex timing gear. 1/12" SU to replace 1 1/4" and 12G295 (MG1100) skimmed head. Top speed, around 100 MPH. Car still has the same engine in it. Previously, other mini (1962) was converted in a similar way but starting with an MG 1100 engine, final drive was changed to a 3.44 to 1.0 . This Mini would not shame itself to an S, and top speed was well over 100 MPH. One had to use the tacho to estimate top speed as speedometer needle would be off the clock. Sort of hitting fuel gauge!
Grear comprehensive video as usual Cole. Got my flywheel puller in the mail today, and thanks to your videos I feel far more confident tackling on this job !
Interesting stuff, enjoying the strip down talk through and agree that you should keep this original. Also like the sound of 'bad wolf' becoming badder with the addition of a turbo 😊
From someone who is experiencing -30C right now.. The way the block heater stays in is by squeezing a piece of rubber from both sides. The screw you removed squeezes the rubber so it expands to make a tight fit in the frost plug hole. Once the screw is loose it should come out. I recently took one out of my spare 998 so I can send you a pic if you like. On a larger scale its the same effect as when the suspension cones get compressed and they bulge out.
Oh interesting. That's good to know for the future in case I find another engine with a block heater. I ended up just leaving it in and letting the machine shop remove it. Haha
It’s definitely frustrating about that distributor housing! I know the feeling, we had rebuild the whole engine and then noticed scoring in the bore so we had to rebuild for a second time but like you say hindsight makes the next build easier! Series is great so far mate it’s nice to see an engine restoration too. P.s. oil pumps called a slot drive - used to be standard on all early a series engines but they’re woefully weak so I think an upgraded one would be preferable👍
Yeah that kinda of stuff is so frustrating when it happens but it's always a learning experience as you say. Thanks for the kind words, the oil pump is actually a pin drive, the slot drive is the flat metal that slots into place. :-) Another commenter mentioned it.
Check out stevestonmotorco’s video on their 1275 project, they cleaned up the block pretty nice with a tub of water and a bit of CLR, helps it to get really rid of rust before they acid treat it. Love the rebuild! 👍
@@classicminidiy I tried to find out but the production numbers were not broken down much more than by year from what I have read. I'm sure the information is out there somewhere but who knows
Re the oil pump I would upgrade it, anything out of sight I would upgrade if there is a better option, such as a duplex chain and a better flow water pump etc. They might not be original spec parts but they are 'better' and will make the final build a generally improved engine without actually modifying it as such.
Yup that makes a lot of sense. I will replace the oil pump and water pump. I will likely keep a simplex chain though, that should be more than adequate for this engine.
for the sake of the cost of a oil pump its worth replacing, I always replace mine with quality new pump, being such a critical component. However I will say that I think you can open the pump up and measure the clearance of the internals and if they are in spec it is useable, and say if you did want to put a new oil pump in afterwards its not the hardest job to do with the engine in. It depends on the cars use really , if its going to be raced then new pump obviously , but if just a road engine then I might be inclined to leave it.
@@classicminidiy kinda wondering if there was a engine mount bracket for 1275 mpi engines. They arent the same block design as a+ so i call them a++. :)
those pistons are not the crap 998cc dished pistons. they have almost a flat top to the those. can you wire brush the 3rd damaged piston and show the top of it
There are a few reasons, in this situation this is a very rare early engine so it's important to preserve things like this. However if it was a normal 998 one of the biggest reasons is that 1275 blocks are becoming harder and harder to source, while 998's are much more common. Ideally sure you would want a larger engine, but if thats not an option rebuilding, tuning, and tweaking a 998 is the next best option. 998's are great candidates for things like turbos and superchargers as well because they have thicker sidewalls, and can handle the boost with little modifications.
About 1975 My MK2 Mini had done 100,000 Miles, still ran well. Decided that I'd do a rebuild anyway. As yours, crank was perfect, fitted new shells, piston rings, water pump, duplex timing gear, Cooper 998 (AEA630) cam, duplex timing gear. 1/12" SU to replace 1 1/4" and 12G295 (MG1100) skimmed head. Top speed, around 100 MPH. Car still has the same engine in it.
Previously, other mini (1962) was converted in a similar way but starting with an MG 1100 engine, final drive was changed to a 3.44 to 1.0 . This Mini would not shame itself to an S, and top speed was well over 100 MPH. One had to use the tacho to estimate top speed as speedometer needle would be off the clock. Sort of hitting fuel gauge!
Grear comprehensive video as usual Cole. Got my flywheel puller in the mail today, and thanks to your videos I feel far more confident tackling on this job !
I am glad to hear I could help you out. Good luck with it and let me know if you run into any issues. :-)
Interesting stuff, enjoying the strip down talk through and agree that you should keep this original. Also like the sound of 'bad wolf' becoming badder with the addition of a turbo 😊
:-)
You struck gold with that 'engine' lol Ask the machine shop about the crank that's been grinded on?
Yup! I really lucked out. Talking with Seven Mini they told me the grinding is normal and more than likely from factory!
Cool ! just shows ya how different engines can be that came from the same production line, M
From someone who is experiencing -30C right now.. The way the block heater stays in is by squeezing a piece of rubber from both sides. The screw you removed squeezes the rubber so it expands to make a tight fit in the frost plug hole. Once the screw is loose it should come out. I recently took one out of my spare 998 so I can send you a pic if you like. On a larger scale its the same effect as when the suspension cones get compressed and they bulge out.
Oh interesting. That's good to know for the future in case I find another engine with a block heater. I ended up just leaving it in and letting the machine shop remove it. Haha
Great video
I await the next one!!
It’s definitely frustrating about that distributor housing! I know the feeling, we had rebuild the whole engine and then noticed scoring in the bore so we had to rebuild for a second time but like you say hindsight makes the next build easier! Series is great so far mate it’s nice to see an engine restoration too.
P.s. oil pumps called a slot drive - used to be standard on all early a series engines but they’re woefully weak so I think an upgraded one would be preferable👍
Yeah that kinda of stuff is so frustrating when it happens but it's always a learning experience as you say. Thanks for the kind words, the oil pump is actually a pin drive, the slot drive is the flat metal that slots into place. :-) Another commenter mentioned it.
Check out stevestonmotorco’s video on their 1275 project, they cleaned up the block pretty nice with a tub of water and a bit of CLR, helps it to get really rid of rust before they acid treat it.
Love the rebuild! 👍
I wonder what the production numbers were on Canadian export mini Coppers. Can't be many.
That's a really good question. Could be a fun project to index them if someone was inclined. My blue mini is a canadian mini as well.
@@classicminidiy I tried to find out but the production numbers were not broken down much more than by year from what I have read. I'm sure the information is out there somewhere but who knows
Re the oil pump I would upgrade it, anything out of sight I would upgrade if there is a better option, such as a duplex chain and a better flow water pump etc. They might not be original spec parts but they are 'better' and will make the final build a generally improved engine without actually modifying it as such.
Yup that makes a lot of sense. I will replace the oil pump and water pump. I will likely keep a simplex chain though, that should be more than adequate for this engine.
for the sake of the cost of a oil pump its worth replacing, I always replace mine with quality new pump, being such a critical component. However I will say that I think you can open the pump up and measure the clearance of the internals and if they are in spec it is useable, and say if you did want to put a new oil pump in afterwards its not the hardest job to do with the engine in. It depends on the cars use really , if its going to be raced then new pump obviously , but if just a road engine then I might be inclined to leave it.
what about A++
Is that like the C++ programming language? :-)
@@classicminidiy kinda wondering if there was a engine mount bracket for 1275 mpi engines. They arent the same block design as a+ so i call them a++. :)
those pistons are not the crap 998cc dished pistons. they have almost a flat top to the those. can you wire brush the 3rd damaged piston and show the top of it
Cole, why would someone want to replace a 998 engine with another 998? Doesn't it make sense to always move up to 1275 ?
There are a few reasons, in this situation this is a very rare early engine so it's important to preserve things like this. However if it was a normal 998 one of the biggest reasons is that 1275 blocks are becoming harder and harder to source, while 998's are much more common. Ideally sure you would want a larger engine, but if thats not an option rebuilding, tuning, and tweaking a 998 is the next best option. 998's are great candidates for things like turbos and superchargers as well because they have thicker sidewalls, and can handle the boost with little modifications.
"The not so 998 build" 😂
I'll just keep changing the name:
Turbo 998 Build
Not so Turbo 998 Build
Not so Turbo or 998, 997 Build
Not so Build.....
1st!
Hahaha it’s still showing it’s uploading on my end!
I know lol saw you added it to a playlist on twitter :)
😂