Відео

FWIW Cura has a fuzzy skin setting as well.

Nice Dude. You Safe me a lot of money. i have to do print parts for my OLD Car. now the Parts look like OEM.

Fuck the blurring. Show what the hell you're talking about.

Nice guide, man! I couldn't remember does Cura have the same feature?

it doesnt give me a TPU option, it has PLA and many materials but it doesnt have TPU, should I just set it as PLA and print it with PLA settings like its nothing because I dont have any solution to this problem ?

But what about resin printed molds for 3D injection? 🤘🏻

Great content, thanks!

Everybody with a tiny hint should relay the whole history of how they got it before sharing it in a minute.

Get SLA

I am so grateful to all commenters mentioning “use fuzzy skin”.

thanks

Thank you for this Video, i had know idea what this setting was and it will help with things im printing, you Rock!!

Disliked the dumb blur on the beginning of the video

THANK YOU A LOT!!! Excelent Information

The fuzzy skin option is a nice one I probably would have never noticed. I appreciate seeing the steps you went through to get there. However, all your "fails" had alternatives you may have also used to get usable results. Except injection molds - those are still expensive. Acetone works well on ABS but timing and temperature are sensitive; burning is just wrong. Anyway, thanks for the introduction to a useful setting.

Had the exact same experience to the tee! Thanks so much for showing this! Excited to try fuzz!

W teacher

Fuzzy skin has been around a long time. Cura had it first I believe. It’s great for grips on handles as well. I did a TPU grip for my walking stick that I still use several years later. The clock design looks great.

Big thanks for the tip!

I realize your problem is solved, but had you considered making molds from your resin printed parts and casting parts? Just wondering whether you considered it and found a reason not to, or if you hadn’t considered it, enjoyed the video.

Thank you for the information!!!❤

Do you think this technique will work if you have very small threads? Like if you're printing a photography camera lens hood?

I like the testing of each fuzz setting. Cannot beat a real world test

Amazing content, but dude there was tons of microplastics created in the other methods. Please keep that in mind for future projects.

I did the contour option like you said but it only applied it to the sides and none on the top.. Is there another option I missed? Thanks for your help.

That was a long video for "I found a slice setting I didn't see before"

Very interesting video! Another way to make the layers less noticeable is by changing the nozzle. For example, with a 0.2 mm nozzle, the results are amazing and come quite close to the quality of a resin printer. The only downside is that it may take much longer to create a piece. Best regards!

looks like shit

8:27 :D:D:D

Curious if after you decided you liked 0.3 and 0.3 if you printed your actual product in multiple variations. Obviously it's all subjective, but I really liked the look of 0.2 x 0.2 as more of just a "this is meant to hide the layer lines / get rid of the '3D printed' look" and the 0.2 x 0.6 as more of a, "yes, this is meant to be fuzzy/rough" and would be curious to see what your thoughts were as someone who has had this same model in their hands hundreds of times with different post processing workflows. If I printed the same model with no fuzz, then 0.3 x 0.3, and the two I suggested, I would still only have that model 4 times, and could pick my favorite, but not really speak to it being the "best" of the 100 different ways I've seen/felt the model during sanding, filling, painting, melting, etc. ALSO, and I think maybe this one would be more of an answer I could find out myself with a couple days or weeks of print time, but I'm very curious what different nozzle sizes [and as a further variable if desired; layer heights] do to the final effect. I imagine at too big/thick it wouldn't really "work" and would just be stringy in a very bad way, but I wouldn't be surprised if 0.6 nozzle with the original layer height JUST improves print time without having the "details" of the fuzz being especially decreased considering it is, by its own nature, not meant to be a smooth transition between layers (i.e. smooth). I suppose what I am getting at with all of this is there may be a good combo (something like 0.2 x 0.2 but printed with a 0.6 nozzle) that would actually increase the speed of the print (relative to 0.3 x 0.3 with a 0.4 if that's what you're doing now) enough that it would bring you back to the original (no fuzz, 0.4 nozzle) print time, with a similar/same final "feel" and look. I don't actually understand nozzle width/layer height enough to have insights here, but if it were my literal job to be producing these and I saved an hour on each one, then it definitely seems like it would/may very well be worth doing, or at least printing another array of test prints with a 0.6 nozzle in the various levels of fuzziness.

Thanks man! Discussing your journey helped.

Is it worth upgrading to this from an ender 3 s1?

This video only makes sense in small niche scenarios, cool idea and all but literally not usable with half the people, i cant make my Tavern have a fuzzy texture now can I, or my Space Marine cosplay.

"Fail your way to success". Mate I just want to thank you for this video and just your attitude in general. I started a 3D printing business for bespoke parts about 6 months ago and it's been a journey of constant failures. One step forward, 5 steps back, I often say to my wife. I'm a perfectionist so even the smallest wall defect wouldn't pass my quality bar, and so I'd re-print and re-print until I was happy. This cost time and money. Then I found fuzzy walls and your video! The way you described the process and your explanation was really helpful. Thanks for putting the time and effort in. Great video and new sub here. Cheers from Australia.

it just kind of dawned on me that 3D Printers will allow an influx of inventor creativity that we so desperately need in this day and age

Injection molding is indeed cost prohibitive for low volume parts. Even those $10K molds are aluminum, so they are going to wear out a lot faster than a traditional steel mold and then you will have to pay yet again to have new ones made! Plus you have the per-part cost on top of the mold cost, which is also high for low volume. You can save a lot of money by going offshore with your injection molding, but then you have shipping costs and delays piled on.

Using Matte filaments also hides layer lines a lot more than glossy filaments. E-sun black ABS+ has a matte finish and also excellent print quality while still printing rapidly.

To use fuzz without messing with tolerances: Add one or more modifier objects to your print. Select the part, right click and pick add modifier, pick the object to overlap with your print. Adjust this modifier object as needed so it overlaps your fasteners and finally disable the fuzzy skin for that modifier. Now you can have fuzzy skin even on parts with dovetail joints with ease.

"I removed the messy layers by making it all look messier on purpose" 😂

If you only sell a few per month, make the case on your 3D printer. But if you really want it to scale take the time to figure out how to manufacture the mold, then use methods that have been perfected over a more than 100 year period. Injection molding, casting, etc. Even if you sold a few per month, you would set aside a day where you only made the cases, then crank them out and use them over time. 3D printers basically have ONE advantage: rapid prototyping. I don't get people who use them to manufacture a particular part over and over. It begs the question: Do you want your manufacturing business to succeed or are you just trying to be a 3d printing guru?

7:50 He finally stops yapping and just shows it. 😂

Do I need a different nozzle or can I use the one that came with the printer? Great info, btw! Answered all my questions except one.

Your video is really inspiring to me. We have a product that we have had trouble getting off the ground, but just watching your success makes me want to take the next step. Thanks Jake! Great video, I subscribed! :)

you don't need to heat acetone, it already evaporates quickly

This Video can save 10.000 $, I mean, yeah, for your molding process, but that's like, it would save you millions of dollars if you would do a person doing the finish from hand for every product. o.O I'm I'm waiting on the calculation if you discover ironing as option.

Great video! Especially the failures towards the eureka!

Blablablabla

90% of 3d printing discoveries are "We found a setting in the slicer we haven't clicked before"

10 min long video just to say he's using the fuzzy skin settings. That's it. Saved you 10 minutes.