Mercedes B Class B180CDI W245 limp home low power investigation Turbo diagnosis and Repair
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2020
- We investigate the cause of low power and poor acceleration on our Mercedes B class. I have a look at the turbo sensors and management connection..
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Sir, you've really helped me solve a problem I had. With me it was the boost pipe that came out and I just pushed it in and my car is back to its usual performance.
Thank you very much.
Great news. Please remember to like ans subscribe.
A real life hero. I wish you the best in your life.
And the same for you. Thanks for watching - good to now it was useful.
You are a hero. Well spoken and explain things a mb garage or any garage would never know or have learned. Thank you again..
You are welcome.
You absolute legend, garage said could be so many things and prepared me for the worst. But that vacuum line had come out, plugged it back in, cleared the codes and I'm back on FULL POWER!!! Thank you so much.
Garages know full well that this is a common issue just but wont let the cat out of the bag. I had a friend who was quoted £800 for a new turbo and I just plugged it back in. H didn't see me do it as he was busy chatting up my wife (minx))
I just closed the bonnet and said a prayer and said try it now. Problem solved. He still believes that it was divine intervention. Mechanics just can't resist the temptation of easy money. Please remember to like and subscribe. Thanks.
This video helped so much best thing I can do for u is make prayer. May Allah guide u to the truth ameen.❤❤❤
Thanks for watching. I am very pleased that you found it useful.
You are legend man,thank you very much i drived the car with disconected turbo for 5 months
It is annoying but very satisfying when you get your boost back!! Good job. Thanks for the comment. Subscribe if you can.
@@razenby Yes,like a new engine 😄
hi great vid i had egr turbow mass air problem,s, i mad a mix of red x , meathonal. egr cleaner 1 1/3 in a liter bottle run at 3000 rpm got hot then very slowley pure into turbo intake did not let the engine over rev am on 100000 miles this worked very well turbo whisels now and lots of power no limp mod no engine light like before
Good stuff. I have never tried that. MAF problems prevents turbo boost control valve operation. I wonder how many cars out there are down on power due to the MAF not giving the correct reading.
Good video Thank you
Thanks for watching.
Very nice video. Same car, I have serious issues with oil dilution due to dpf regens and I have already replaced two egt sensors at only 90k miles. Thanks
Have you checked witha nd ODB analyser? It might tell you what is wrong.
Any diesel that gets into the oil via EGR is supposed to evaporate as straight diesel is volatile. The jury is out on the root cause of this but there seems to be two several schools of thought:
1. The Cleaning cycle is not able to complete due to short runs. Solution: take a long hot run.
2. The pressure sensor is indicating the DPF is blocked when it isn't. (Sensor / wiring iffy)
3. Your DPF is blocked causing constant regen attempts,
4. The diesel you are using contains fatty acids of vegetable origin. If this is a thing in your country make sure you buy straight diesel without vegetable extracts!!
If you find the cause then please let me know. Thanks. Good Luck.
@@razenby Thank you for taking the time for your answer. Mine is a B200 CDI euro 5. I checked with Autel AP200 scanner. DPF health seems good. Ash content regularly goes up with weeks and then comes back to zero with a regen. Total ash content is low so dpf seems fine. Car has done many jobs (timing chain, hp pump, head gasket leak and so on). Egr has been cleaned with mixing chamber. I observed also with diagnosis live a dpf regen and all works fine (it comes to an end in 10-15 minutes). The only issue I have right now is the egt B16/14 sensor giving strange values . I'll replace it soon. I think that oil dilution is a known issue for this engine and there's nothing I could do except for driving exclusively highway miles. I use low ash content oil (Fuchs Titan Gt1 Pro flex23, probably the best), I replace filters often (MANN) but the problem is still there. Probably it's an engine feature and some technicians confirmed that to me. Years ago I had a B200CDI euro4 and had the same problem. The only thing I do is replacing oil very often avoiding reaching the 5% dilution dangerous threshold. :-) I also tried to change diesel gas station but no results. If you have questions let me know and thanks again
@@ticktime6569 I have read up on this and the best answer I can find on engine oil dilution is in the link below. Very interesting. See the bit about the guy who had an ongoing problem with this and solved it by buying a different brand. Apparently some diesel is less volatile than others. www.stocksy.co.uk/articles/Cars/diesel_particulate_filters_dpfs_and_rising_oil_levels_the_uk_government_demonstrates_the_law_of_unintended_consequences/
@@razenby Thank you. On the web I've read pretty much everything. For sure diesel quality can affect the problem, but till now I've tried premium diesel of many brands with no success. From engineering studies about the problem, it's clear that the thing that matters the most is the amount of hours of dpf regens. About 6 hours of cumulative regens bring the oil to a point of no return. Considering a mixed city/highway driving and that a normal regen lasts about 20 minutes, it corresponds to 15-20 regens. With an old engine and dpf half full (let's suppose) a regens happens every 200-300 km. So with rapid math every 3-4k km you should change oil. And it corresponds more or less to my rythm. In diesel engines we should not look at km intervals, but sadly we should give credit only on the amount of regens. In fact I already had to change the timing chain because of wear due to this dilution and extended oil interval change. If you change oil when the manual suggests, you'll throw your engine in the junkyard
@@ticktime6569 I have a 150k Miles W245 owned from new. We get no problem with oil dilution. Car is used every day , sometimes for short journeys but probably about 15 miles per day on average. We live in the open so the car is driven quite hard from the outset. Not much queuing in traffic. Musing about this I wonder if you have a leaky injector? Is the car running OK without sooty emissions? A diesel will appear to run OK even when one pot is getting way to much fuel especially if it is a bit drippy between spurts. Are you sure that it is the regen that is doing is the problem or some cause that is causing the regen to be required too often. Is the thermostat OK?...I am not aware that diesels make the mixture richer when cold but there must be some out of parameter running expected on a cold engine. If teh engine is runningtoo cool then the diesel wont evaporte and be sucked into the ERG valve and burned. I suppose an out-of-parameter O2 or air mass sensor will cause too much Diesel to be injected? One duff injector could cause a lot of soot and in turn create the conditions where yet another regen is required. The conjecture is that the diesel is sprayed in during the exhaust stroke. I would consider an injector being the culprit..
Hi, great video. I'm about to replace belt and pulleys and I was wondering if lowering the engine (only from the rear part) just that 6-7 cm could brake the exhaust pipes. Would you detach the exhaust first? I saw some doing the job without touching the exhaust. Thanks for help 🙂
I have seen many B class W245 and I have never seen idler pulleys fail. My car has done 190K miles on the original pullers and tensioner. It is likely that the idler pulleys and tensioner aren't the problem. If they aren't making a noise then leave them alone. However the usual cause misdiagnosed as belt/pulleys/tensioner by mechanics is a s follows: If you are getting rattling or clacking at tick-over that disappears when you pick up the engine the revs then the Sprag clutch on the alternator has seized. This happens around 80 to 120K miles and is very commonly misdiagnosed as idlers/tensioner.
@@razenby hi and thank you for your answer. I always heard that pulleys and tensioner are the weak part of that engine, becoming noisy soon (well before 60k miles). Some dealers near me recommended to replace the entire set before 60k miles and it's compatible with the noises I had (they began at around 50k miles). Noise is present also when revving. Honestly I can't imagine pulleys to last for 200k miles, in any car in general 🙂 but I'll check well before replacing parts. I also have squeak when turning the steering wheel. Thank you
Lovely video, I do have similar issue with my b class mercedes 2008 2.0 diesel. I really need help with my car with similar issue. Low performance especially when driving on the Motorway.
Have you checked that the vacuum pipe has not come disconnected in the engine bay at the back left. usually a white/translucent pipe about 4mm in diameter. If the rubber receiving hole perishes this can drop out and you lose all turbo power. The transmission or braking or stability system or transmission can request the ECM to go into limp mode. You really need to connect a code reader to see why it is in limp mode. If you cant find any error codes then suspect the turbo. You can see the turbo boost figures in the live reporting on the code reader. If the boost remains low when you rev the engine and you have no fault codes then suspect the Turbo. Also check very carefully for cracks of loose hoses in the intake route. Also inspect for oil coming out of the inter cooler - this indicates a blown or worn turbo. On the B classes I have seen the Turbo usually fails around 130 to 160k miles. This is highly dependent on the oil and services that have been maintained.
@@razenby thanks so much I have get it check the vacuum pipe.. Where are you based if I may ask
Thanks for the video. I have a b200 turbo and it seems like it has a turbo problem, when you start the engen it starts to whistle as you Rev it above 2000rpms, do you perhaps know where the turbo is located?
As far as I know it is in front of the engine. It is a big thing so it should be able to sopt it.
@@razenby I think I have managed to spot it, all thanks to your video, there's a little oil leak next to it, I will try and remove it and get it checked out.
You will find it easily. Find the exhaust. After the exhaust, go towards the engine. When you're at the end of the exhaust - you'll be at the turbo. So the turbo is at the engine and the exhaust comes out. Whistling the turbo may not yet be a fault in the turbo. It often happens that the turbo absorbs dirt. As it spins quickly, the dirt will damage the turbo blade a little. And so the blade starts to make a whistling sound at certain speeds. It doesn't matter. Whistling can also cause the hose to leak. An air filter hose is connected to the turbo - it is not - this is where the turbo sucks in air. You have to find another hose - it could be a plastic pipe, because there is a lot of pressure. It's best if you watch and especially listen at the engine and the other person adds gas. That's not a problem either. only \ performance could be slightly reduced. Find out the oil or make a video.
Hi Thanks for video i have same issue on my wife car Just Come back from Saudi Arabia F1 and car issues
Thanks for video
You are welcome. Good luck with it. The B class are underrated cars.
Hi, I have B200, 2012 petrol W246, it seem after an hour driving, I have power lost on accelerators flat, and just travelling 95km, and struggling to pass, and difficult to run on up hill. I am speculating the oxygen sensor.. please advice
Oxygen sensor would give a fault code as would just about everything than causes the car to limp home mode.. However a weak turbo or a sticking turbo bypass valve or vacuum leak on the actuator just cause limp home with fault codes on my car. The best bet is to first of all a connect a code reader and see what the car is telling you.
Hello. could you please say where the map sensor located for these cars ....I have one problem cod P1408..and I need to change the map sensor. Thanks
Will do,
Any recommendations on why my car went onto limp mode and coming up codes for boost flap and acuator ?
Check the vacuum pipe to the boost flap isn't split or detached. The error happens when an inconsistent reading is obtained from the boost pressure sensor. So it could be the sensor or the flap itself. If you tale the sensor out check for excessive oil. It could be a blown or failing turbo messing with the electronics. If the turbo fails you usually get a rash of related codes but never seen one that says that the turbo itself has failed. How many miles has this engine done? Don't forget to check the vacuum pump is pulling a good vacuum. If a pipe is split or detached you could have a vacuum leak.
"ESP ACTIVATED Speed limit due to ESP limp-home".. from a while b class has no power. Any solutions?
Check: ABS sensors..(ABS light would normally be on), Intermittent brake light switch, faulty accelerometer, bad tracking adjustment (steering not straight ahead when driving straight), or a bad steering position sensor are the faults that I have seen and fixed for this.
I have a B200 Turbo auto. P0234 is the code, over boosting. Turbo was recondition just over a year ago. two mechanics cannot seem to help so far. Getting different suggestions from other mechanics. Based in South Africa. please help.
Almost all turbo cars come with a blow off valve "hooter valve" to prevent high pressure developing in the system. The high pressure usually occurs when the throttle is suddenly closed and a "relief valve" allows the air to escape. Check the wiring and connections to the valve. Also check the connections to the ECM. It could also be the valve so get a spare from the breakers and replace it. There are some electrical test that you can do if you have a multimeter but usually a very close inspection of the key components might reveal the problem.
Mine has 2020 (rail pressure) and 2078 (differential pressure)code issue but i have no clue where the issue could be at… Max rpm 2300 and that’s it.
Maybe you can give some advice?
You can't know for sure, but usually it is leaky injector. HP pump leak shows often out and happens because loosen bolt behind the pump, pressure regulator may have jammed open (you may try knocking it carefully) but why get eventually 60 bar... Regulator has also o-ring on valve body which rarely can be broken. Do the injector leak test first. BTW do you have at least half tank fuel and fuel filter changed (yes you got ok measurement values of low pressure side but just to be sure...)
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Hey buddy. Can you advise me how to take off the air filter box please ?
Detach or unplug the components that are attached to the air filter housing. Some are held on with screws others you can just unplug the wiring harness. Standing in front of the car facing the engine. There are two posts on the lower RHS that pushed into round bushed holes in the RHS mounting bracket. (your right) and two posts on the LHS that push down into slots in the mounting bracket, To remove air filet box: Lift the left hand side of the filter housing (your left). This will disengage the posts from the slotted mounting bushes, then pull the housing to the left to disengage the posts from the RHS bracket holes. . When the RHS posts are clear of the bracket the box can be lifted clear of the engine.
Good , you know where os the map sensor in this model vehicule? Thanks
You mean the Mass airflow sensor?
@@razenby yes thas it
How can you turn a A160 CDI to A180 or even A200 performance? I mean it’s the same engine but different turbo or different electronics?
B180 is 2 Litre A series are 1600cc Petrol? Could possible remap. An auto tuner would be able to advise.
Valve bypasses excess boost pressure.
The valve bypasses the exhaust turbine on this. It feeds into the exhaust side - no link to boost side.
Please take the leaves out of the vents they get stinky when rotten ;-/
ok