This was a tight review of rail cover options! Your review was personal confirmation my original intent is one of logical. I'm definitely running with The ERGO MLOK WEDGELOCK Rail Covers, stocked at my LGS. I'm all about Top-Shelf Quality Build Components for the pieces I deem necessary. All components-Function trumps Aesthetics. Great Comparison! 🤙
I'm on the same boat. Function over aesthetics all day long. Back when I got the rail scales I didnt see another video breaking down the differences so I went for em...I'd rather put that money into ammo or other more vital components.
I have a full Geissele build I did and I got 2 regular railscales 3 slot in the matrix design and the xos-h in a 4 slot matrix design with the karv it matches the texture on the maritime bolt catch and geissele magazine button! It’s a super dope build wish I could post pics
I have had the G10 railscales (not the wrap around ones) and the Magpul polymer covers. Plastic is fine, works just as well as G10 for something as simple as a cover. I also have a DDM4 that I needed to finish dressing out and for less than $50 I got the Slate combo pack with 3 panels and a handstop plus 3 additional covers. It would have cost over $170 for the same arrangement from Railscale.
@@alexanderthegreat8067 I can buy double the amount of 2-slot Slate panels for roughly what it costs for a 3 pack of HTP 2.5-slot railscales. Im not saying the slates are better than the HTP but it just doesn't justify the price for something that is already 70-80 percent of the HTP railscales- and if i really wanted a better grip with them a soldiering iron and a wood burning tip set is
@@steven.2602 what does your comment have to do with what I said? I was just letting the guy know they also make poly covers that’s all. I can give two shits about your soldering iron and all the rail scales in the world. Every manufacturer has the right to form their own price based on the time effort and money involved in their development. Rail scales are one of the first ones to do it. That’s the same to come and talk shit about Agency Arms Glock slides going for $900 spripped vs Brownells ones for $150. Yeah they are both slides but some people prefer one over the other. Holosun HS503 it’s a great optic but in order to be cool for the gram and for the online Devgru crew you must have Aimpoint T2.
I was looking to find M1913 rail covers for a chunky quad rail. the best I've come up with is Troy, LMT, or Ergo plastic covers, apparently the magpul ladder grips are pretty good.
As a materials guy, I've got to give it to the makers of G10 for being clever enough to name it that and convincing people that it's markedly different from plastics and composites. G10 is basically high density fiberglass (with more resin). Fiber-reinforced plastic is fiberglass in a plastic. They are different materials and the processes involving each is different. But they are in the same class of materials. $50 is not worth the machine time and materials of what those grips are, even if they're made to the utmost quality. In fact, I don't think G10 is the right material to make a panel out of. It's main benefit is grip (due to the high amounts of resin). But G10 is extremely heavy for what it is and other plastics can achieve similar levels of grip in this format with texturing. The resin is not what gives composites strength. The fiber does, and the resin merely keeps it there. Head resistance is going to be pretty similar to fiberglass or FRP. For grip panels, FRP is, in my experience, is going to be superior.
I don't think that's it remarkably different but it does have some different properties. I think for one the melting point is higher, and it seems to have a higher strength to thickness ratio then alot of cheaper polymers do...That being said I'm just going by experiences and haven't studied each thing in depth to know for sure. It's mostly knife handles and some firearm parts that I've noticed it being the case. G-10 seems to be the poor mans carbon fiber....I also agree that what they charge for each panel is a bit ridiculous. It seems to be a branding thing mostly. I have messed around with doing Dremel engraving and texturing on my G-10 knife handles. The dremel just melts through the G-10 like butter and gives you clean defined lines with little clean up work. So I don't see them going through alot of bits to maintain clean work lines either.
@@50StichesSteel You're right. I shouldn't dismiss it out of hand. It is higher density with a higher melting point and stronger than some plastics. It's also machine-able. But it's mainly used for its waterproof and grippy-ness. What I'm getting at is that RailScales, while I'm sure are well made, just don't justify their price point.
Yeah the price point is crazy...I never machines G10 parts to know if it brought on new expense and challenges but it seems to be very easy on cutting implements...Maybe the biggest challenge would be collecting the dust from it. I'm sure big companies have contained CNC type of machines to do all that for them.
I'm all the time trying to fit rail covers around, "mostly forward" of a vertical grip of some kind. The bcm mod 3 I believe it's called, "their shortest grip" is a nightmare to try and seamlessly run grips around simply due to how the grip is attached to the mlok rail. It takes up an uneven portion of the mlok making most covers leave a tiny gap that's just small enough to where you can't directly run a cover up to the body and just large enough to feel annoying. The BCM KAG grip works perfectly with both magpul rail cover designs as well as both bcm rail cover designs. On another note I would like to see how close those honeycomb grips mount to the inside of your rail to see how close to the gas block they are. Due to barrel whip or barrel harmonics, "I forget the exact term", you actually need a bigger distance between the two than one might think. If you have mounts too close to the gas block then it completely defeats the entire purpose of having a free float rail. I learned this actually from SOTAR and he showed the proper distance and I ended up having to change up 2 of my uppers because of this.
@@crazyphilly555 The proper distance from the gas block? From the sotar video he said you can get away with 1/4" but to be safe you want half an inch. For government profile barrels you can get away with getting much closer to the gas block since there's not as much barrel whip. I actually had to completely replace one of my pencil barrel handguards with a Midwest industries handguard that was just a quarter of an inch wider. The previous handguard was like 1/8" of an inch away from the gas block and I could never get good accuracy from the rifle. One day at the range I started having malfunctions every other round and realized that due to the barrel whip the gas block was actually making contact with the handguard after every shot which backed out the screws. After making the replacement my groups of Federal XM193 went from 3.6moa to a nice and even 2moa.
I think mostly built for this grip. I would contact them though and ask if other Grips would be compatible. I think they use a certain style that works with both MLOK and Keymod by flipping a piece around
Since aluminum transfers heat there's no sense putting these on my rifle. Living in a free state like Arizona. Sometimes you'll need a glove just to grab a aluminum handguard. Having plastic or rubber handguards is a lot more comfortable when the barrel gets over 300 degrees
Railscales normal size G10 scales are only 26$ a piece and come in 2-3 slot. theyre around the same size as the slate ones. i went with the plastic ones since they do come in a 3 pack for around 30$ since i got 2 sets for both my ARs. prob will get G10 ones next month depending on bills lol
The G10 does a better job at controlling heat and depending on the texture, will give better grip when wet..Definitley worth the investment if your rifle gets hot quick, or you need better grip...Not to mention they look nicer too lol
Put your torch on your weapon. Hard to watch a video with your light hanging off your weapon by the pressure switch cable. SMMFH. Two seconds to slap it on the rail. Invest in some lights. That cheap flashlight isn't doing the trick.
@@mobilesolutionsfl Awesome..You should know what brand the "cheap lights" are then right? Along with the weapons and red dots and silencers? I doubt it because you wouldn't have said cheap anything you see in the video, besides the cheap covers I mentioned as an option lol...No need to get hostile bud..I know everyone's on edge with what's going on lately.
I wasn't referring to the weapon light, genius. I was referring to the handheld he was using to illuminate his weapons for the video. You're not very bright, are you?
A Rattler SBR with a can, a DD... $150 Forend Grips. This dudes Ballin' !
Not to mention those gorgeous marble countertops 😃
And a Cloud Def. Light....🤑🤑🤑🤑
Not really. A lot have a lot more. Lol Now…Arm & Gun is Ballin’. Lol
@@scooper420 it’s a streamlight the cloud is the pressure pad holder
Thank you! Your video helped me make a decision. Went with the slate grips.
This was a tight review of rail cover options! Your review was personal confirmation my original intent is one of logical.
I'm definitely running with The ERGO MLOK WEDGELOCK Rail Covers, stocked at my LGS.
I'm all about Top-Shelf Quality Build Components for the pieces I deem necessary. All components-Function trumps Aesthetics.
Great Comparison! 🤙
I'm on the same boat. Function over aesthetics all day long. Back when I got the rail scales I didnt see another video breaking down the differences so I went for em...I'd rather put that money into ammo or other more vital components.
I have a full
Geissele build I did and I got 2 regular railscales 3 slot in the matrix design and the xos-h in a 4 slot matrix design with the karv it matches the texture on the maritime bolt catch and geissele magazine button! It’s a super dope build wish I could post pics
I’ve found using the regular g10 railscales on the sides and I use the xos-h railscales on the bottom with the karv! It’s super dope and super gripp
I have had the G10 railscales (not the wrap around ones) and the Magpul polymer covers. Plastic is fine, works just as well as G10 for something as simple as a cover.
I also have a DDM4 that I needed to finish dressing out and for less than $50 I got the Slate combo pack with 3 panels and a handstop plus 3 additional covers. It would have cost over $170 for the same arrangement from Railscale.
Rail scales has the polymer covers for $30 and the handstop for $28.
@@alexanderthegreat8067 I can buy double the amount of 2-slot Slate panels for roughly what it costs for a 3 pack of HTP 2.5-slot railscales. Im not saying the slates are better than the HTP but it just doesn't justify the price for something that is already 70-80 percent of the HTP railscales- and if i really wanted a better grip with them a soldiering iron and a wood burning tip set is
@@steven.2602 what does your comment have to do with what I said? I was just letting the guy know they also make poly covers that’s all. I can give two shits about your soldering iron and all the rail scales in the world. Every manufacturer has the right to form their own price based on the time effort and money involved in their development. Rail scales are one of the first ones to do it. That’s the same to come and talk shit about Agency Arms Glock slides going for $900 spripped vs Brownells ones for $150. Yeah they are both slides but some people prefer one over the other. Holosun HS503 it’s a great optic but in order to be cool for the gram and for the online Devgru crew you must have Aimpoint T2.
I was looking to find M1913 rail covers for a chunky quad rail. the best I've come up with is Troy, LMT, or Ergo plastic covers, apparently the magpul ladder grips are pretty good.
At $50 a pop they better feel good!
Love my B5 rubber rail covers. Grippy and keeps heat off my hands
Great video thanks man
As a materials guy, I've got to give it to the makers of G10 for being clever enough to name it that and convincing people that it's markedly different from plastics and composites. G10 is basically high density fiberglass (with more resin). Fiber-reinforced plastic is fiberglass in a plastic. They are different materials and the processes involving each is different. But they are in the same class of materials. $50 is not worth the machine time and materials of what those grips are, even if they're made to the utmost quality. In fact, I don't think G10 is the right material to make a panel out of. It's main benefit is grip (due to the high amounts of resin). But G10 is extremely heavy for what it is and other plastics can achieve similar levels of grip in this format with texturing. The resin is not what gives composites strength. The fiber does, and the resin merely keeps it there. Head resistance is going to be pretty similar to fiberglass or FRP. For grip panels, FRP is, in my experience, is going to be superior.
I don't think that's it remarkably different but it does have some different properties. I think for one the melting point is higher, and it seems to have a higher strength to thickness ratio then alot of cheaper polymers do...That being said I'm just going by experiences and haven't studied each thing in depth to know for sure. It's mostly knife handles and some firearm parts that I've noticed it being the case. G-10 seems to be the poor mans carbon fiber....I also agree that what they charge for each panel is a bit ridiculous. It seems to be a branding thing mostly. I have messed around with doing Dremel engraving and texturing on my G-10 knife handles. The dremel just melts through the G-10 like butter and gives you clean defined lines with little clean up work. So I don't see them going through alot of bits to maintain clean work lines either.
@@50StichesSteel You're right. I shouldn't dismiss it out of hand. It is higher density with a higher melting point and stronger than some plastics. It's also machine-able. But it's mainly used for its waterproof and grippy-ness. What I'm getting at is that RailScales, while I'm sure are well made, just don't justify their price point.
Yeah the price point is crazy...I never machines G10 parts to know if it brought on new expense and challenges but it seems to be very easy on cutting implements...Maybe the biggest challenge would be collecting the dust from it. I'm sure big companies have contained CNC type of machines to do all that for them.
And that Micarta is premium compared to G10.
I'm all the time trying to fit rail covers around, "mostly forward" of a vertical grip of some kind. The bcm mod 3 I believe it's called, "their shortest grip" is a nightmare to try and seamlessly run grips around simply due to how the grip is attached to the mlok rail. It takes up an uneven portion of the mlok making most covers leave a tiny gap that's just small enough to where you can't directly run a cover up to the body and just large enough to feel annoying. The BCM KAG grip works perfectly with both magpul rail cover designs as well as both bcm rail cover designs.
On another note I would like to see how close those honeycomb grips mount to the inside of your rail to see how close to the gas block they are. Due to barrel whip or barrel harmonics, "I forget the exact term", you actually need a bigger distance between the two than one might think. If you have mounts too close to the gas block then it completely defeats the entire purpose of having a free float rail. I learned this actually from SOTAR and he showed the proper distance and I ended up having to change up 2 of my uppers because of this.
whats the proper distance ?
@@crazyphilly555 The proper distance from the gas block? From the sotar video he said you can get away with 1/4" but to be safe you want half an inch. For government profile barrels you can get away with getting much closer to the gas block since there's not as much barrel whip. I actually had to completely replace one of my pencil barrel handguards with a Midwest industries handguard that was just a quarter of an inch wider. The previous handguard was like 1/8" of an inch away from the gas block and I could never get good accuracy from the rifle. One day at the range I started having malfunctions every other round and realized that due to the barrel whip the gas block was actually making contact with the handguard after every shot which backed out the screws. After making the replacement my groups of Federal XM193 went from 3.6moa to a nice and even 2moa.
Will the cutout on the XOS-H work with any M-LOK vertical grip or does it only work with their grips?
I think mostly built for this grip. I would contact them though and ask if other Grips would be compatible. I think they use a certain style that works with both MLOK and Keymod by flipping a piece around
Im not seeing the wrap around rail cover on their website.
It's the "XOS" version...Just seen it now on their homepage..It's hard to tell from the pic but that's it
What giant supressor is on that Rattler? Lol
What can is that?
What flip up BUIS do you have on there?
They are the Troy Delta 1 sights..Really good sights IMO.
Since aluminum transfers heat there's no sense putting these on my rifle. Living in a free state like Arizona. Sometimes you'll need a glove just to grab a aluminum handguard. Having plastic or rubber handguards is a lot more comfortable when the barrel gets over 300 degrees
At 3:34, whose qd mount are you using on that rifle?
For the optic?
Sorry, I was talking about the qd sling swivel mount on the end of the rail.
@@redalert9883 They came with the rifle
@@redalert9883 it’s the Daniel Defense M-LOK QD SLING SWIVEL MOUNT $30
Railscales normal size G10 scales are only 26$ a piece and come in 2-3 slot. theyre around the same size as the slate ones. i went with the plastic ones since they do come in a 3 pack for around 30$ since i got 2 sets for both my ARs. prob will get G10 ones next month depending on bills lol
The G10 does a better job at controlling heat and depending on the texture, will give better grip when wet..Definitley worth the investment if your rifle gets hot quick, or you need better grip...Not to mention they look nicer too lol
What was that spray at 6:21 ?
Gleak lol
Price is super ridiculous....with that said, I'm still going with railscales 😆
These things are pretty cool looking but $50 a piece 😳
Yeah I just about had a mini stroke when I clicked the purchase button lol
Lol I bet, I do really like the looks and wrap around function.
They do function really good and the egos are nice for pulling that rifle back into your shoulder. Same with heat reduction from the gas block
50 Stitches Steel I don’t doubt you but god damn $50 each 😳
Good info 50.......my question is? How do ur buddies pee on the barrel if you completely cover the hand guard? Lol.
LOL
$50 a pop sheesh
Yeah I would never pay that amount again. I mean I really like the product buy I don't think the cost fits it. Super expensive for what it is.
Informative video. One suggestion - stop turning on the fucking flashlight
those Rail Scale covers are atrocious looking , I'll stick with the Magpul covers.
Put your torch on your weapon. Hard to watch a video with your light hanging off your weapon by the pressure switch cable. SMMFH. Two seconds to slap it on the rail. Invest in some lights. That cheap flashlight isn't doing the trick.
Lol you have no idea what you're looking at...It's off for a reason...The video is about handguard covers, not lights
Pretty sure I know exactly what I'm looking at. Been building ARs and working on weapons over 20 years. But thanks for thinking you know all about me.
@@mobilesolutionsfl Awesome..You should know what brand the "cheap lights" are then right? Along with the weapons and red dots and silencers? I doubt it because you wouldn't have said cheap anything you see in the video, besides the cheap covers I mentioned as an option lol...No need to get hostile bud..I know everyone's on edge with what's going on lately.
I wasn't referring to the weapon light, genius. I was referring to the handheld he was using to illuminate his weapons for the video. You're not very bright, are you?
Imagine being this [redacted]