I think that’s due, in part, to much automotive programming being of the “reality TV” ilk. Not reality, mostly idiots yelling at each other. Jay Leno’s videos were interesting, but in the last month it seems like he’s trying to be Top Gear USA.
I like both. But this assembly video is interesting as I’ve worked on cars a bit, but usually ones from the 70’s. The Babbitt metal video was interesting as I’d heard of that, but never seen it.
@@M60E3MG Yeah, I agree, I wouldn't mind a time lapse at the end or before they're done producing the episode, but what I really love is watching these details. Even these videos are massively cut down from the time it takes, but it feels like you're not missing any of the important bits
Those old engines are so familiar yet so primitive at the same time, even compared to a simple old block like a VW flat 4. Fascinating to see how far they've developed.
The T-Models and the A-Models had some of the best quality cast iron ever poured. Primitive? No! Early yes. T-Model blocks are still used in racing. Stick around and see how much “modern” stuff is working in a hundred years. Good Grief C. B. Properly tuned they run as well as anything ever made and are serviceable forever. Try that with a bunch of close tolerance turbo aluminum recyclables. One word to the wise, Ford. To go from the T-Model in 1908 when my Dad was one year old to the A-Model in 1927 this was some level of mechanicals for the masses. In 1940 my Dad was driving a straight eight Auburn with a spare on each fender. From horses to one hundred miles an hour in just a few years. AMAZING! This engine is a beautifully sculpted piece of history, nothing less.
We resolved the problem with lifter adjustment by machining the bosses down about .300 , made adjustment extremely easy . One of my customers had a performance cylinder head made by Dodge Brothers . When we installed the distributor my friend came by and set the timing , when we fired it up it turned over a couple of times and ran perfect . Can't wait to see the time lapse video !
Great videos, very informative we all thank you. By the way a West L.A. old timer showed me how to cut down the casting around the lifters to make the adjustments accessible. Works a beaut.
Nice to see how these "obsolete" engines still has a following passionate enough to make them perform better. I keep hearing "high compression heads" and see the balanced crankshaft (done in quite the old-school way). What kind of performance is expected from this build? What is the factory HP, and expected HP? It is going to a rat rod, and going for the inline 4 instead of a V8 is something you don't see everyday. Can't wait to see the final product and results.
The shop I learned and grew up in was an original model A repair shop. There was wrenches and tools I didn't recognize but 100% remember the set of wrenches for adjusting valves on that engine. Later at an engine shop I watched as babet was poured for bearings. I recovered the babet from some old electric motors . I see you have the KUEREG OCTANE BOOSTER at your shop. They're great for bench racing. 😂
The old N model ford tractors basically have a modestly updated version of this engine. Crazy how so many are still running after 60 years of abuse. Simplicity at its best.
My wife is acting all weird saying I have a man crush on Devin or something and I should just move up there and work for him or something, I don't know I was listening to Devin while she was talking.
My friend, You have committed one of the sins of a model novice! At what point did you INDICATE the fly wheel housing? Surprise surprise! Yes they must be indicated to within .006 TIR. Use a magnetic indicator on the back of the crankshaft (W/O the flywheel) and spin the crank while indicating the surface of the flywheel housing (Where the bell housing joins it) Also, you must put a .010 shim under the two top bolts. This is part of the adjusting process. I know you have not seen anything like this on any other engine before. But that's the way Henry made them 90 years ago. Good Luck! Terry
You can figure out the pitch of the lifter. Some super simple math based on the measured clearance versus actual and you have total number of adjustment degrees required. Youd get it perfect in two rounds of adjustment.
Do yourself a favor pal with the snap rings in the Pistons once installed rotate him a full turn just to make sure they turn and blow it with air afterwards. With the valves I know you have weird set up there where you cannot hold the lifter, but to check the actual lash do it while rotating the engine multiple times you will always find a low spot if you do that, the valve is just closed scenario, it's not accurate. Check Lash and rotate at the exact same time. My two cents, cool video and Nice shop man
A major step may have been missed when installing the bellhousing: Were the shims behind the upper two bellhousing bolts reinstalled? I would think the video would have shown this, as it is another oddity of assembling a Model A engine.
As I recall, are you not supposed to "dial in" the bell housing to the crank flange surface to ensure it's parallel ALL THE WAY AROUND for proper clutch alignment???
The old timers would drill a hole through the lifter bore and lifter so they could stick a piece of heavy wire through the lifter to hold it still while adjusting.
Have you tried "Right Stuff" sealants yet? I will never use anything else again. I've NEVER had a failure, leak, or blow out (notorious China wall seals) using that stuff. Where did you learn to safety wire? I've only seen that done on race engines and aircraft. You seem to be pretty practiced in it :-) I've never ran it but people with much deeper pockets than me seem to LOVE Evan's non aqueous coolant. You'd never have to worry about that block, headbolts or radiator rotting ever again. From what I've heard it runs a little hotter but nothing dramatic.
If you want an oil pan to never leak, 1: degrease the gasket surface on both the block and the pan using brake clean 2: apply a bead of 'The Right Stuff' by Permatex 3: bolt it down tight.
AMAZING considering all the loss material as the engine wears in & runs. Must expect that soft material to either fill in other voids or stay on the pan bottom.
Why are the gasket surfaces painted? And the crank, for that matter? Seems odd to paint surfaces that’ll be covered in oil. If that was covered in a previous video, please let me know.
So I hadn’t heard of that paint, but Google led me to Eastwood’s website. They claim it “seals uneven surfaces in engine castings to improve oil circulation.” I’m not sure I believe that. Oil will stick to any surface it gets on inside an engine. Good oil circulation would simply be a function of having enough oil and an adequate pump capacity. Wonder if the engines were painted inside from the factory?
The pump only puts pressure to the center can journal. Several rebuilders add the pressure to the center main. The rest of the oil gets dumped into the valve cavity. Gravity and the oil dippers on the rods does the rest.
What is that cool gizmo that he is using a 4:10 to squeeze the tube of sealer. I am not familiar with it. Can it be purchased somewhere. I hate squeezing the tube so hard that my hand hurts!
Do you know how long I stared at that thumbnail trying to figure out what the hell the foot long valves springs and wrenches were for, before I realized the perspective
My first car was a 28 A sedan I bought from a junkyard for $20 . I was 14 and took it apart that was the end of it as I was always helping my older brother restore his 31 coupe that was rusted out all the way around. I sold a 31 4dr Phaeton 7 yrs ago ( regrettingly) I own a 30 wayne school bus project, walton's mountain truck, 29 firetruck project, 31 woodie project, and 31 tudor sedan no rust, I want to teach young people about restoring old cars to build their skills and character keeping them involved and out of gangs and trouble. Anyone interested in being involved and being a mentor, let me know. Tifton, Ga. Area.
Did you apply Glyptal to the inside of the engine? The color inside the engine does look like Glyptal. 7:35 Did this engine originally use safety wire fasteners? I thought that safety wire was only used on custom engine builds and on aircraft engines.
I was gonna ask the same question about the glyptal!! I'm gonna guess it's a specific coating that will withstand the heat and vibration inside, but that red color sure makes it look like glyptal!
It ;probably is Glyptol. and yes, Ford used safety wire in many places on Mod. A s. Another thing, If you should take one apart, you'll find the threads a little tighter than you're used to, DON"T TAP THEM OUT! Ford's hardware is fitted closer than modern hardware. This car was built precisely with rather tight tolerances. The tolerances on wood (Ash) were + or - .010. This is wood! It was NOT Cheap Junk!
@@terryegan5113 Thanks for the info. I never realized fastener dimensions changed. If someone needed a new set of bolts for their Model A, where would they buy them?
@@skylinefever Brattons, in Maryland Snyders, in Ohio, Burts in Denver, These are the foremost dealers but there s also Tams , A & L, Mike's Affordable and others. Mod A s were the first "modern " car that HF produced and he didn't get everything right the first time. Like slitting the Bellhousing from the Flywheel housing, bolting the transmission from the inside of the BH. and other things. Don't forget to indicate the mating surface of the FW housing or the input shaft of the transmission will give you trouble later. Terry
Check out the Model A REDLINE REBUILD time-lapse video: ua-cam.com/video/GGn-5VoS-m8/v-deo.html
Watching this is like a Xanax for car guys... So relaxing
Amen 🙏🏻
I think that’s due, in part, to much automotive programming being of the “reality TV” ilk. Not reality, mostly idiots yelling at each other. Jay Leno’s videos were interesting, but in the last month it seems like he’s trying to be Top Gear USA.
I do agree but then again I’m on Xanax
These assembly videos, at normal pace with narration, are much better than the time-lapse videos.
I like both. But this assembly video is interesting as I’ve worked on cars a bit, but usually ones from the 70’s. The Babbitt metal video was interesting as I’d heard of that, but never seen it.
@@M60E3MG Yeah, I agree, I wouldn't mind a time lapse at the end or before they're done producing the episode, but what I really love is watching these details. Even these videos are massively cut down from the time it takes, but it feels like you're not missing any of the important bits
Those old engines are so familiar yet so primitive at the same time, even compared to a simple old block like a VW flat 4. Fascinating to see how far they've developed.
It really is impressive, and the things we take for granted now, like bearing inserts, and pressurized bearings, and overhead cam/valves.
The T-Models and the A-Models had some of the best quality cast iron ever poured. Primitive? No! Early yes. T-Model blocks are still used in racing. Stick around and see how much “modern” stuff is working in a hundred years. Good Grief C. B. Properly tuned they run as well as anything ever made and are serviceable forever. Try that with a bunch of close tolerance turbo aluminum recyclables. One word to the wise, Ford. To go from the T-Model in 1908 when my Dad was one year old to the A-Model in 1927 this was some level of mechanicals for the masses. In 1940 my Dad was driving a straight eight Auburn with a spare on each fender. From horses to one hundred miles an hour in just a few years. AMAZING! This engine is a beautifully sculpted piece of history, nothing less.
You’ve succeeded at two kinds of videos. Long semi explaining how to do it. And the fast time lapse ones. Both are amazing
this is a prime production on YT. for free!
Amazing that all this had to happen on the Ford assembly line. You do them proud!
We resolved the problem with lifter adjustment by machining the bosses down about .300 , made adjustment extremely easy . One of my customers had a performance cylinder head made by Dodge Brothers . When we installed the distributor my friend came by and set the timing , when we fired it up it turned over a couple of times and ran perfect . Can't wait to see the time lapse video !
thumbs up for cleaning up before bringing in the car. Sounds like something i do every time i repair a vehicle.
Great videos, very informative we all thank you. By the way a West L.A. old timer showed me how to cut down the casting around the lifters to make the adjustments accessible.
Works a beaut.
By far the best UA-cam channel out there keep up the great work
I know I’m months behind but loving it. Grown up UA-cam.👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks for the great video. What a fantastic piece of engineering for an old motor. Can't wait to hear it run.
Wow..that engine IS like 4 Briggs made into one...very interesting and pretty neat..definitely going to be cool to see it run
Brian C
Henry Ford liked to keep it simple.
where you think briggs got their idea from all the flat heads of years past
props to whoever edits your vids
Davin is an engineering God. Thanks Davin you legend.
Nice to see how these "obsolete" engines still has a following passionate enough to make them perform better.
I keep hearing "high compression heads" and see the balanced crankshaft (done in quite the old-school way).
What kind of performance is expected from this build? What is the factory HP, and expected HP? It is going to a rat rod, and going for the inline 4 instead of a V8 is something you don't see everyday. Can't wait to see the final product and results.
Love the behind the scenes stuff, the engine and it's old ways too, are awsome!
Can wait to see the model A itself.....👌👌👌🙏🙏🙏🙏.....Thanks for sharing 👌
The shop I learned and grew up in was an original model A repair shop.
There was wrenches and tools I didn't recognize but 100% remember the set of wrenches for adjusting valves on that engine.
Later at an engine shop I watched as babet was poured for bearings.
I recovered the babet from some old electric motors .
I see you have the KUEREG OCTANE BOOSTER at your shop.
They're great for bench racing. 😂
I enjoyed this, I have never seen one of those engines assembled.
I have thoroughly enjoyed my education in this engine, thank you
Top job clean and triple checks pure quality! that's the way I like to work.
Totally loving this build....keep it coming.
I never seen such a clean and organized shop like that before.
Thanks for this series. I have worked on one Model A engine in my life. Had I seen these videos first I would have had a better time.
Beautiful, just beautiful. One of my favorate engines.
Good morning, looks like great machining on the block. The babbiting video was really good. Thanks and take care.
Wow, that engine is looking awesome! I can hardly wait to see the next segment. 😀👍🏼
So nice to see the old teck. Thanks
Always a blast to watch!
The old N model ford tractors basically have a modestly updated version of this engine. Crazy how so many are still running after 60 years of abuse. Simplicity at its best.
Can't wait to watch that engine running
This is a very good series. Thank you.
Nice work man! Looks like a brand new engine (as it should!).😁👍
Thanks for posting, enjoyed the build and anxious to see it start up and run.
Never worked on one , I learned some here . ENJOYED !!
So clean,Looks great
Nice clean work area😀
My wife is acting all weird saying I have a man crush on Devin or something and I should just move up there and work for him or something, I don't know I was listening to Devin while she was talking.
Are you qualified though good sir?
I mean, if they're hiring a hand and asking for Exp, i would run there in a heartbeat.
LOL
Awesome video, this engine from model A is beautiful and awesome, i see from Costa Rica 👋
My friend, You have committed one of the sins of a model novice! At what point did you INDICATE the fly wheel housing? Surprise surprise! Yes they must be indicated to within .006 TIR. Use a magnetic indicator on the back of the crankshaft (W/O the flywheel) and spin the crank while indicating the surface of the flywheel housing (Where the bell housing joins it) Also, you must put a .010 shim under the two top bolts. This is part of the adjusting process. I know you have not seen anything like this on any other engine before. But that's the way Henry made them 90 years ago. Good Luck!
Terry
This will give you a nice, smooth operating clutch if done properly and a nasty chattering one if overlooked. 👍👍👍
Вы очень крутые!!! Привет из Сталинграда!
That was a great video!! Very much appreciated!
CLEAN!
You can figure out the pitch of the lifter. Some super simple math based on the measured clearance versus actual and you have total number of adjustment degrees required. Youd get it perfect in two rounds of adjustment.
I always wondered how the assembly of the valve train worked on the old flat heads.
So very stock looking on the outside. That makes me happy.
Do yourself a favor pal with the snap rings in the Pistons once installed rotate him a full turn just to make sure they turn and blow it with air afterwards. With the valves I know you have weird set up there where you cannot hold the lifter, but to check the actual lash do it while rotating the engine multiple times you will always find a low spot if you do that, the valve is just closed scenario, it's not accurate. Check Lash and rotate at the exact same time. My two cents, cool video and Nice shop man
Looks awesome as usual!
A major step may have been missed when installing the bellhousing: Were the shims behind the upper two bellhousing bolts reinstalled? I would think the video would have shown this, as it is another oddity of assembling a Model A engine.
As I recall, are you not supposed to "dial in" the bell housing to the crank flange surface to ensure it's parallel ALL THE WAY AROUND for proper clutch alignment???
The old timers would drill a hole through the lifter bore and lifter so they could stick a piece of heavy wire through the lifter to hold it still while adjusting.
You are my hero!
Love these videos.
Have you tried "Right Stuff" sealants yet? I will never use anything else again. I've NEVER had a failure, leak, or blow out (notorious China wall seals) using that stuff.
Where did you learn to safety wire? I've only seen that done on race engines and aircraft. You seem to be pretty practiced in it :-)
I've never ran it but people with much deeper pockets than me seem to LOVE Evan's non aqueous coolant. You'd never have to worry about that block, headbolts or radiator rotting ever again.
From what I've heard it runs a little hotter but nothing dramatic.
hell yeah bro you rock
This tube squeezer is amazing! Does someone know the Brand? 😱👍 (min. 3:52)
Got my attention too. At 4:09 you can see "The Tube Grip" by VALCO label with phone number.
Great for toothpaste.
@@johna1160 great! thx man
Parabéns o senhor é muito inteligente desde são paulo Brasil. Sou seu fã mestre.
I love your work bro love from Pakistan ♥️♥️♥️😊
Ты гении чувак я завидую по белому удачи тебе и долгого творчества
Very practical guy
Nice I can't afford rebuild I have to cross fingers with turning engine and hope for the best
I would find it funny for him to be this serious rebuilding an old Briggs engine
What a nice looking hunk of iron!
That old engine might be primitive by todays standards but it still looks pretty sophisticated...
Excelente me encanta como trabajan éxitos
Loving this 😊
If you want an oil pan to never leak,
1: degrease the gasket surface on both the block and the pan using brake clean
2: apply a bead of 'The Right Stuff' by Permatex
3: bolt it down tight.
love you Work!
Nice work
This is awesome
Good work
I had to go watch videos on how babitts are made. 😃
Fun fact the model A engine does not have a oil filter!
AMAZING considering all the loss material as the engine wears in & runs. Must expect that soft material to either fill in other voids or stay on the pan bottom.
Well I don't think oil filters even existed in those years the Mark 4 British tanks had huge engines and no filters I think.
Respect from Russia
These videos are like porn to a car guy. Always love seeing new videos come out. Great job awesome editing as well.
Why are the gasket surfaces painted? And the crank, for that matter? Seems odd to paint surfaces that’ll be covered in oil. If that was covered in a previous video, please let me know.
Several model A builders paint the inside with glyptol for oil control. Mine is not painted and works just fine for me.
So I hadn’t heard of that paint, but Google led me to Eastwood’s website. They claim it “seals uneven surfaces in engine castings to improve oil circulation.” I’m not sure I believe that. Oil will stick to any surface it gets on inside an engine. Good oil circulation would simply be a function of having enough oil and an adequate pump capacity. Wonder if the engines were painted inside from the factory?
@@M60E3MG to the best of my knowledge they we're not painted from the factory.
I watched the time lapse video today. Didn’t look like it was originally painted on the inside.
When is hagerty going to do a offical how to build a performance LS engine?
Why? So some idiot can put one in a Model A ?
So if it has an oil pump, why aren't the Piston main bearings pressurized with the pump? What does the pump pressurize?
Just the crank mains.
I thought he said just the middle main bearing was pressurized. It was when he put a 90 in that tubing and hooked it up to the middle main bearing.
The pump only puts pressure to the center can journal. Several rebuilders add the pressure to the center main. The rest of the oil gets dumped into the valve cavity. Gravity and the oil dippers on the rods does the rest.
Those are big beautiful pistons. What is the displacement?
What is that cool gizmo that he is using a 4:10 to squeeze the tube of sealer. I am not familiar with it. Can it be purchased somewhere.
I hate squeezing the tube so hard that my hand hurts!
Do you know how long I stared at that thumbnail trying to figure out what the hell the foot long valves springs and wrenches were for, before I realized the perspective
My first car was a 28 A sedan I bought from a junkyard for $20 . I was 14 and took it apart that was the end of it as I was always helping my older brother restore his 31 coupe that was rusted out all the way around. I sold a 31 4dr Phaeton 7 yrs ago ( regrettingly) I own a 30 wayne school bus project, walton's mountain truck, 29 firetruck project, 31 woodie project, and 31 tudor sedan no rust, I want to teach young people about restoring old cars to build their skills and character keeping them involved and out of gangs and trouble. Anyone interested in being involved and being a mentor, let me know. Tifton, Ga. Area.
Like no 800, bravo, from Jakarta 👍🏻👍🏻
did you soak the rope main bearing seal's in oil before putting the oil-pan on,
I REALLY want to know how much horsepower this will make compared to their original specs.
I guess not much more unless he changes the carb.
Love the color of that engine. What was the overall cost of this rebuild?
The teflon is not affected by the heat? There's no risk of they "melt" or other bad thing?
Did you apply Glyptal to the inside of the engine? The color inside the engine does look like Glyptal.
7:35 Did this engine originally use safety wire fasteners? I thought that safety wire was only used on custom engine builds and on aircraft engines.
I was gonna ask the same question about the glyptal!! I'm gonna guess it's a specific coating that will withstand the heat and vibration inside, but that red color sure makes it look like glyptal!
It ;probably is Glyptol. and yes, Ford used safety wire in many places on Mod. A s. Another thing, If you should take one apart, you'll find the threads a little tighter than you're used to, DON"T TAP THEM OUT! Ford's hardware is fitted closer than modern hardware. This car was built precisely with rather tight tolerances. The tolerances on wood (Ash) were + or - .010. This is wood! It was NOT Cheap Junk!
@@terryegan5113 Thanks for the info. I never realized fastener dimensions changed. If someone needed a new set of bolts for their Model A, where would they buy them?
@@skylinefever Brattons, in Maryland Snyders, in Ohio, Burts in Denver, These are the foremost dealers but there
s also Tams , A & L, Mike's Affordable and others. Mod A s were the first "modern " car that HF produced and he didn't get everything right the first time. Like slitting the Bellhousing from the Flywheel housing, bolting the transmission from the inside of the BH. and other things. Don't forget to indicate the mating surface of the FW housing or the input shaft of the transmission will give you trouble later.
Terry
@@terryegan5113 Awesome, thanks!
Waiting for the Time-lapse video :)
I can hear the camera shutter for the time lapse
Safety wire for the bell housing. Is that SOP for an A?
No
Yes the flywheel housing and fly wheel are supposed to be safety wired
I wonder what the Land Speed Record is for one of these bangers...100mph?
Is there a way to find all of these Model A videos in one playlist?
I'm wondering why he expects to still get oil leaks? Seems like all the old motorcycles also its very difficult to seal them why is that?
Davin I like you soooo much.
What’s the name of the tune? Great video again
All this perfection, and still no way to add an oil filter? Too bad....
👍👍
Seems like a very complicated simple engine.
????????????? a very complicated simple engine
@@barryphillips7327 ?????????????????????????????????????????
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤