Basic Leather Mouse Pad Project
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- Опубліковано 2 бер 2017
- Find a complete list of materials here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/c...
Learn to make a basic leather mouse pad with a beautiful border stamp. In this tutorial, we’ll cover a good variety of basic leathercraft tools including the edger (67-4000-2), stitch groover (8069) and stamping tools (67-6983 & 67-6959).
Find step-by-step instructions and a full list of supplies here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/c... - Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
THANKS! I made one of these for my sister, who works in a law office and she LOVES it! So does everybody else there. Looks like I'm going to be making more of them.
That's great! Thanks for leaving a comment.
I can't believe that in 5 years no one has noticed the quick switcheroo you did at 3:30.
Caught you Chuck! lol
Christmas presents!
I'm so glad I found this channel. Wonderful work as usual.
Wonderful video! Clear explanation with sound at a good level and a good view of all the work you were performing. A special HUGE 'Thank You' for NOT adding irritating, loud music that overpowered your verbal explanation! ***** (5 Stars) Hope to see many more videos in the future! You have a fan! :o)
Agreed
Sorry for the previous question. After reading other folk's comments, I realized the question had already been answered. But I did want to add that I really like your video series. Please please please keep 'em coming!
Thanks, Mike! We're working on more videos right now, so please stay tuned.
absolutely loved this video Chuck! Thanks man!
Thank you from the UK. You are a very good instructor (I am a high school teacher myself) Many thanks again.
I LOVE your videos, and the guy in the videos is awesome! Please keep doing them, they are a joy to watch!
Hello Jason. Thank you for your feedback. We are thrilled to hear that you are enjoying these videos!
Chuck, really nice project. Fine gift that everyone will enjoy.
I just found your videos after only recently getting into working with leather. Thank you so much for this video I now have something for hubby as a Christmas present.
Wonderful, so glad it was helpful!
Very well portrayed.
Love this channel. Chuck is amazing 👍
Thanks so much, Cliff!
BEST SALESMAN EVER!
Thanks for this! My wife wants me to do a spin on this for Christmas and make a mat for her laptop to sit on with extra room on the right for a built in mousepad. Just ordered my materials and am hoping it turns out well!
That's a great idea!
NICE JOB
Great video. I just noticed the link to find the materials. I am anxious to make one.
nice, very nice
Thanks so much! This is great! I did some leather work with my dad as a kid but havent done any for quite some time. I would like to get back into it. I am looking at making matching desk and mouse pads. Could you please tell me the benefit of backing the leather versus using a thicker piece of leather to begin with? Also what do you recommend for the lowest gloss topcoat that will protect the sleeves of my dress shirts from getting dye (or topcoat) on them. Thanks again for your great videos.
"Really nice"!
Nice flat-clicker.
Would you recommend adding a stiffening layer in between the face and the suede backing?
“Mark it 8, Donny”
what do you use to thin contact cement? thanks.
Beautifully done. I am looking for a larger piece when dong my spencerian and calligraphy scripts. Purpose: to preserve my nibs. Also, I need it to be flexible to role-up, tie and leave to my next site. Any suggestions? Looking forward to hearing from you.
Robert, thanks for the comment; it means more than you know! Are you talking about a “Chef’s Roll” type of project? Let us know and we’ll see if we can get you set with just the right leather.
Hello, Thank you for your videos. I'm curious about the non-slip tape that you mention. Is this the same non-slip tape that is used on floors and stairways that has a rough sandpaper like finish or something different?
Many thanks,
Charlie
Hello Charles. Yes, this is the same tape as what is used for floor or stairs with a sandpaper like finish!
What is the black cutting surface? Love the project.
Hi there, it's called a Poundo Board - we'll link it below so you can check it out! www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/3461-01/silent-poundo-board/pr_5776
What do you do with the leftover dye? Do your pour it back into the container? What about the tupperware, do you just wash it to use with other dyes?
Hello,
Yes, I normally pour the leftover dye back into the bottle and wash the container, that way I can use the tupperware for my other colors also.
IDK if anyone has said this before... but i Would leave the leather w/o top coat. some optical computer mouse will not work in shiny surfaces. just keep in mind if making it as a gift.
Hey Chuck, keep up the great work! It's there a certain quality leather you usually work in for projects? I purchased some to practice on before i committed to projects and it was "hairy". Is there a way to smooth it out with basic hand tools? Or just a low quality bundle I purchased? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
You can smooth out the flesh side of leather using gun tragacanth or Tokonole and a slicker. It's probably a low quality or maybe leather from the belly area if it's "hairy" on the flesh side. Try a single or double shoulder and that should have a smooth back.
Is a gloss finish a good idea for an optical mouse? I would think a matt finish would be better. If a mouse pad is too shiny and the end-user has an optical mouse, a reflective background will cause the mouse to not function properly. Thoughts?
Hello,
Good question. I’m not sure. I have a mouse pad that I’ve been using for some time and it’s actually gotten more glossy with use and I have an optical mouse and it doesn’t seem to be an issue. I tend to use the Leather Balm pretty frequently and it’s a good low gloss finish, but, it too will “slick” some with use and start to get a more glossy look. I don’t think it’s an issue but I fear I can’t really give you an exact answer on that one. Some experimenting maybe useful? Let me know how it goes!
Nice coverage of a great project....
I have some concern though...what about edge completion and sealing???
There was no mention of Burnishing the edges of the project???
Is Burnishing unnecessary if cut cleanly, or is there a concern that burnishing will "Bulge" the edge of the leather interfering with the mouse usage at the edge of the pad???
Hello. Thank you for your questions. Prior to gluing on the suede to the leather, you can use a gum tragacanth (www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8163/001/49) and slick the edges for a smooth feel. We would not recommend slicking the edges after the suede has been glued. When slicking the edges, we recommend using light pressure that causes heat and friction and this should prevent the "bulge" that is caused by heavy pressure. Good luck!
Chuck, I'm gonna start dip dying with a large bin like you use. Do you use one for both blacks and browns, or one for blacks and one for browns?
Hi Myke,
I use the same bin - just clean it out after each use! Hope it works out god for you!
I needed to return to this site for many reasons, but most important, in the video, "Basic Leather Mouse Project," what do you have on your workbench? Is that a lengthy sheet of leather, dark in color? If that is the case, I am looking for something like that, buy in brown. Also, I need to have the ability to roll it and tie it up. My other dilemma is to have a pouch made where I can store my oblique and straight Spencerian pens. Probably enough to fit 10 pens. of course, as a military man cost is everything. I look forward to hearing from you. Many thanks!
Robert,
Thanks for watching and thanks for the questions and comments! Thank you, as well, for your service!
The material on the cutting table is “Poundo Board” and it’s specifically for cutting and wouldn’t roll well, but, I think you may be looking for a medium weight leather for the pen case (much like a “Chef’s Roll” used to store and carry knives). I would look at a “Veg-Tan” single shoulder in a 6-7 oz. This is the same leather used for holsters and will not affect metal (as opposed to Chrome-Tan that will). Look for a single shoulder (very affordable). In addition to the tannage, this type of leather has some body to it and can be dyed or left alone, and with use, will fade to a rich leather color.
I hope this helps!
Many thanks..back to the drawing board. starting place your site. Semper Fi
HI guys as always ...GreaT ViD and simply explained.
I would like to ask you if i should put some grease like the Aussie conditioner and than the snow proof ..( aerosol..) or vice versa
i Mean the other way around ?()
ps sorry for my poor english ( :
Please don’t apologize for your English. Your question is completely understandable! Yes, I would use a top coat like the Aussie and then add the Snow Paste over that. It’s tough to completely seal leather, but that combination should work nicely! Thanks for watching and thanks for the great comment.
Thank you Sir!... once again
Nice, but a close up of the finished back and edges would have ben nice.
We will keep this in mind for our future videos. Thank you for the feedback.
how do you know where to start the border so it comes out right?
Hi there, I'm new to leather crafting and I've been learning a lot from your videos. Yesterday upon sewing my 2nd project I found ot that I can't evenly fit stichtong holes 4mm apart around the whole piece. In the end I always had the last hole either too far away from the first hole or if I decide to cramp another one in between them then I'd get an ugly stitch. Watching you stamp this mouse pad I am wondering was it a coincidence that the stamps perfectly fit this lenght of 8x8 or do you have some way of calculating this?
I alwso have a 2nd question if by any chance you see this and have the time to respond :D.
I've used exactly the same dye im my last 2 projects (fiebings light brown oil pro dye). In both i've been painting with a dauber. On the first one I went a little heavy with the paint and i also painted the flesh side of the leather. It stayed a lot darker than it shouldve been nothing even remotely close to what you had in this video. I left it dry outside overnight and in the morning it was still smelling as chemicals and was leaving stains when scrubing it with a rag. Now my 2nd piece came out fairly light brown and it dried out quickly but i just put in 2 cotes of a very lighlty soaked dauber. Upon drying both pieces had a greenish glare to them. While I managed to get rid of it by scrubbing with a cottong t shirt on the lighter piece, it did not work out on the darker piece. So any insight on this might help me. Do you think there's something wrong with the paint, should i shake it stir it.. etc.
Thanks for all the content and good luck with your work :)
Hi Simeon,
When punching the stitching holes, as you come to corners or the end of the project take your chisel and just lightly mark where your punch marks will be, if they don’t line up, use a single chisel hole punch and space the last 3-4 stitches a little bit closer or further apart to make it come out looking perfectly even. If you fudge the spacing a little bit in 3 or 4 stitches, no one will ever know the difference. Same principal works for border stamps as well.
On your second question, are you using a natural veg tanned leather and if so what thickness? Thanks!
Weaver Leathercraft
Thank you so much for taking the time to reply sir.
I was using a 1.5mm thick veg tanned cow leather. When applying the dye with the dauber I first made sure to not do it with a soaked dauber but I did apply multiple coats with circular and straight motions on both sides. The flesh side of the leather came out quide orange with some darker spots and that same greenish hue on those spots.
Also on the 2nd piece which came lighter i first applied a light coat of water, very light, to mark stictch lines.
Hi Simeon,
We would recommend trying the dip-dye method to ensure consistent coverage. You could also use a deglazer on your leather to clean it before dying, sometimes imported leather will have a glaze or "sheen" on it and that needs to be removed in order to get consistent color. Hope this helps!
Weaver Leathercraft
Thank you very much for the information. I will definitely try your advise.
I wish you all the best and keep up the good work :)
Thank you so much!
what hammer do you use
Hello,
In this video, we use the 24 oz. Maul made by Barry King: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/8613
Did you work out before hand that the stamps would finish evenly around the border?
Great question! I tend to set my stamps/stamp combinations at a consistent distance from each other, but, I can stretch or bunch these together as I approach an end point. When approaching any given point, I can lightly lay the stamp or stamp combinations on the leather to get a “ballpark” idea to see if I’m going to be long or short. From there I can start to add or subtract a very small amount of distance between each stamp. This is unnoticeable, and you can really add or subtract some good distance in just a few inches while keeping a very consistent look. We hope this helps!
Hello! I'm from Bulgaria! First, I want to apologize for my bad English! And ask, what thickness leather using for the pad. Аnd what thickness leather that you use for the production of bags and wallets! thank you in advance and I apologize for the anxiety I'm causing you!
Hello!
The mouse pad had a 7 oz. top and a 3/4 oz. liner. For bags, a good weight is anywhere from 4 oz. to 6 oz. thickness. Wallets, 4/5 oz. for the exterior and 2/3 oz. for the interior. We'll link our leather conversion chart below so you can see what mm thickness this is.
www.weaverleathersupply.com/learn/leather-101/leather-thickness
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thank you very, very much for the answer. And I wish you much health and success on you and on your channel. God bless you and give you the strength to keep moving forward
What happens when your border stamp tool marks don't come out even?
hi. Was it luck having the pattern complete perfectly or did you plan it out somehow? Thanks
Hello,
Are you referring to the stamping along the border?
Yes. I could never plan it out quite that well.
When you get towards the end of your stamping, keep an eye on how the spacing is looking, sometimes you have to either start spreading the stamps a little bit more or you can crowd them a little bit to make sure your pattern ends correctly. It's almost unnoticeable except to you. :) Hope that helps!
That's how I do it but it looked a bit too sweet the way it worked out for you here, but then again, you say it's imperceptible except to you, since you know what you did to get there. Thanks for commenting on an older vid...wasn't sure it anyone would. Cheers!
do you sell the tools?
Hello Roberto, thanks for watching! Yes all the tools that Chuck uses in the videos are available on our website. www.weaverleathersupply.com/
What's the secret to making the project lay flat once it is finished?
Dale, the best tip we can give you is to make sure you use at least an 8-9 oz. leather. Also, if you just roll it back the opposite way, then it should help correct it. Thanks for watching!
How did you get the border stamps to fit exactly? Was that trial and error, pre-planned or just pure luck. I suppose if you stamped them out first on a scrap piece of leather you could work out the size of the mouse pad you would need to make the stamps fit nicely. It was interesting to see your starting position, for the stamps. Why did you start there? It all just fitted in too nicely to be co-incidental. Perhaps you could explain your technique in a little more depth. Love your videos by the way.
Great question! I tend to set my stamps/stamp combinations at a consistent distance from each other, but, I can stretch or bunch these together as I approach an end point. When approaching any given point, I can lightly lay the stamp or stamp combinations on the leather to get a “ballpark” idea to see if I’m going to be long or short. From there I can start to add or subtract a very small amount of distance between each stamp. This is unnoticeable, and you can really add or subtract some good distance in just a few inches while keeping a very consistent look. We hope this helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Good answer. Thanks for prompt reply and keep up the great, ultra-enthusiastic videos. Much appreciated by this newbie!!
sir what you used at 6:08?
Hi Tasin,
Just regular tap water was used to case the leather, it was applied with a foam brush.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply
Sir, what thread and needle size should I use for sewing leather wallet in the case of industrial sewing machine?leather thickness (0.8-1.2)
I finished making my own leather mouse pad! However, I noticed that the edges are curling upwards, what is the reason for this and how can I prevent it from happening to my next project?
мышь то как ездит в итоге и не показали
It's Ironic that I just made two mousepads the other day, and I hadn't seen this video.
God i hate the imperial measuring system in 2020
Your very good pleas speak slowly
Actually..u don't need that hype for a mouse pad