I had the same issue after only about 10 hours of cutting. Glad this video exists because I wouldb't have known what to do. Tear down was fairly simple. I wound up losing the safety switch spring, but oh well. All the wire connectors were loose at best. Poor quality control I'd say. Putting it back together was the bitch. My biggest piece of advice is to empty the oil chamber before you start; otherwise, it's a greasy mess. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this awesome video! He gave me the confidence to tear my saw down, I had exactly the same problem: the electrical connections were just loose really annoying but so wonderful that you let me know how to do it!
All this time I thought it was some sort of safety feature lol. Mine would stop all the time! Eventually it stop working all together. Great tear town video. With all the comments here sounds like quality issue with Ryobi.
Thanks for this video. My problem is not electrical; recently I noticed that my Ryobi stopped oiling. I used this video as a guide to take mine apart to try to get at the oiler pump bc other attempts to solve the problem haven't worked yet. So I've got it all apart except for the last step of separating the two "halves." What I can see so far is, the black oil tubes are fitted onto that aluminum thing (sorry, I don't know what it is) pretty tight and I didn't want to tear them trying to take them off and maybe blow air or kerosene through them. I'm running out now to the hardware store bc I need a long narrow torx screwdriver for the last two screws before I can take it apart the rest of the way as you have done in this vid. I ran kerosene through the oiler and it appeared to be dripping out okay; with oil tank empty, I tried blowing air through it w my air compressor; nonetheless, with bar chain oil in the tank and engine running, I am getting no flow. I guess I am asking if you have any tips or suggestions as to what else could be done to restore oil flow. (Also, do you know what that screw is just underneath the sprocket, what it does.?) Thanks for any information and thanks again for posting this video.
It’s good you were able to access that much even before you opened the case. Unfortunately, I do not have experience with the oiler not working. The oilers have been ok, when in use I frequently have to take debris out of the chain some I find myself taking that first plastic piece with chain adjustment and clear the oiler at that time.
I'm in the same boat. The tubes comes off the oil pump with a pair of needlenose. The tubes on mine are clear of obstruction. So the problem is the pump. When I take it out and try to blow air or solvent through it appears blocked. I soaked the pump in solvent for a few hours and blew it out. Still seems blocked There is also an adjuster on it which doesn't make any difference. I saw another video of different make but almost exact same pump design, so I will attempt to take the pump apart today. It's pretty basic. Update : I couldn't get the pump to work reliably so went on a hunt to find a replacement. Ryobi was out of stock as were most parts outlets. What I did learn in the process is the pump is made by Homelite and is used in some of their models. I hit the jackpot on Ebay.ca where the new pump was cheaper than buying from Ryobi. I put in the new pump and all is golden. Tools needed for breaking down the saw is two sizes of torx screwdrivers and needlenose to pull the tubes off the pump. Just keep track of which size screw goes where as you will have many. To find a new pump run a search on Ebay for "Oil Pump & Gear for RY40503 14" 40V Cordless Chainsaw 537485001 & 309516002"
I have a european version, a 36V Ryobi Chain saw, a RCS36X3550HI. It would cut out as soon as I put any pressure on it when sawing. Then it would not start until I remove the battery and put it back. I decided to try this fix. The screws vere not very loose, but anyway allowed a half turn on the screw to tigthen them properly. After this the saw would perform properly without cutting out, as long as I do not force it to really bog down.
Thanks for the feedback. I would think that if it isn’t the connections, something else I the electrical circuit may be loose. My next guess would be something malfunctioning in the speed controller itself.
mine started stuttering today ,,,, AND TONITE IT IS WONDERFUL, OF THE 6 CONNECTIONS ONLY 3 WERE TIGHT ,, 1 was almost out of the connector. WAS RYOBI ASLEEP WHEN THEY TIGHTEN THOSE EURO CONNECTORS ??????? thanks you saved me a ton of greif going thru the warranty process,,,, had an issue with a string trimmer; and after screwing around to get it fixed
Thank you. Glad the video was helpful and also really appreciated that you left feedback about it. Although it may have been possible that the connections were loose from using the tool in the video. But when looking inside, it seems like they also could have been loose during the assembly process.
Follow up. So I now know that the "aluminum thing" is the oil pump. Black tubes come off without much problem once I took it out. I see that the problem is the threads on the idk what its called, cog? that turn the little gear inside the oil pump appear worn and don't appear to be making ideal contact enough to turn it correctly. Also, it appears there once once an o-ring at the top of that cog but I think I found parts of it in turning the oil filter gear with my finger tip and wiping away little pieces of idk what, either pieces of what used to be the threads of the cog, or a thin o-ring if there ever was one. The pieces were man made, not debris or chips, etc. Point being, no wonder the threads get worn bc the cog doesn't sit that tightly; there's enough play to have created the problem I described. I'll see if I can match that cog at my local small engine repair place. Anyway thanks again. p.s. I set the playback speed on your video to .25; that helped too.
Luckily you found the problem. Other options may be include to email Ryobi with your model number see if you could order the part from directly or try to purchase a really cheap used one (with a functional oiler) and see if you could use it as a parts donor.
mine Ryobi was doing that ,they gave me a new one,, a friend got a new one and it started doing the same thing they gave him a new one too i'll have to fix it next time thanks
Thank you for your question. My best guess to answer your question would be the same issue that is shown in this video, a worn, loose or corroded electrical connection. Aside from a bad connection, a brainstorm guess would be that a safety switch to stop the motor or regulator to slow or speed up the the motor is malfunctioning.
After disassembly. None of the screws were loose. However, something was loose because after assembly, it works normally. For how long is anyone's guese.
Question. If that's is a 1400W chainsaw driven by a 36V4A battery, for example (let's say 160W maximum power) does that mean the motor drains almost 40A from the battery, or does it stop at 4A and the motor is in actual 160W motor with some clever torque mechanism to make it as powerful as a 1400W motor? Thanks in advance for your reply!
I do not know the electrical specifications for the motor itself or how much electrical current the motor actually uses from the battery. Tests for the amount current would have been good but the priority was to get it to start again. It’s my opinion that the current the motor draws from the battery would change with the rpm of the motor. As far as torque mechanisms are concerned, my opinion would be that gearing and the rpm of the motor would be the things most likely to be used with these chainsaw models.
@@smitty2jones I had the stutter/stop issue with my RY40502. The saw would run fine when not cutting but would stutter when I started to cut a log. I tried this fix without success. I re-terminated both ends of the three white connectors. This did not solve my problem. After checking with Ryobi we thought the problem was a failing motor controller. Replacing it didn’t help. I replaced the trigger switch also. I noted that I didn’t see any indication of connections that had been overheated and there was no “hot electrical” smell. In the end, I found the problem. It was mechanical. There is a small set-screw that holds the motor’s rotor to the shaft. This set screw is between the cooling fins of the rotor. I. Was able to diagnose this set-screw issue by holding the sprocket end of the motor with a wrench and pulling the trigger. The rotor could turn independently of the shaft. I could also test this (without the battery installed) by holding the sprocket end of the shaft with a wrench and turning the rotor by hand. It was tough getting the set-screw out - it’s a small allen key socket and must have loc-tite on the threads. When I got it out, I could see the end was damaged. I straightened out the end of the set-screw with a file and reinstalled it after aligning the threaded hole with what appeared to be a flat on the shaft. I had to torque it quite a bit to eliminate movement. I’ve only made a few cuts but it seems to have solved the problem. I was surprised this was the solution because it really felt like an intermittent electrical issue. Good luck!
Is it me or I been looking at varies ryobi brush dc motor burning after time which is normal but the new line w brushless also has a tendency on some models of tools of overheating or stop moving ( working for a couple of seconds ) on the 40v systems or is it just some rare models ? I was wondering if these happens after the warranty period of the lifespan of the tool or we should go more soft in these tools ?
As far as I know Ryobi will honor the warranty with there tools. The retailer will honor there store policies if it’s within the time frame and you have the receipt. As far as the brushless this was the first last the last model I bought, so I don’t know if this was a common issue. The other brushed models I bought never had this problem.
I have the same exact problem, what tools did you use to take it apart? I saw some long tools in this video that I’d need to go deep. I’d rather not go through Ryobi if I can do it myself.
To open the case I used Torx screw drivers. This was in addition to Phillips and flat head screw drivers. Although the fix is the shortest clip in the video, I spend a little bit of time checking and rechecking the wires in the connections to make sure they were tight.
The 40502 didnt turn out to be built this was unfortunately. Ordered a new switch on a hail mary. But everything else looks super solid on connections. Multiple batteries have been tried. Stuttered for a couple days before finally failing. It's been used a lot in the rain, so my hope is the internals of the switch had a component that corroded. Everything else looks nice and shiny.
Best of luck with the new switch. These tools are really useful. With working outdoors & vibrations on the electronics and batteries it makes you appreciate them when they are up and running.
Cheap connectors sloppy factory assembly. All these saws are thrown together shit. Not a one has ever been built by Anyone who cares at all. Quality control department is a bunch of drunks.
I think the model after this was more power and seems to be holding up better than the one in this video. That being said written, I have not had to re-open or connect the saw in this video since this was recorded.
the one i have has zero response. I am going to give this a try.
Good luck with the tool.
Did it work??
I had the same issue after only about 10 hours of cutting. Glad this video exists because I wouldb't have known what to do. Tear down was fairly simple. I wound up losing the safety switch spring, but oh well. All the wire connectors were loose at best. Poor quality control I'd say. Putting it back together was the bitch. My biggest piece of advice is to empty the oil chamber before you start; otherwise, it's a greasy mess. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this awesome video! He gave me the confidence to tear my saw down, I had exactly the same problem: the electrical connections were just loose really annoying but so wonderful that you let me know how to do it!
The feedback is much appreciated. Glad the video helped to identify the issue.
All this time I thought it was some sort of safety feature lol. Mine would stop all the time! Eventually it stop working all together. Great tear town video. With all the comments here sounds like quality issue with Ryobi.
I'm having the same issue going to have to try this out hopefully it fixes the issue with my chainsaw
Good luck with the issue and stay safe.
Thanks for this video. My problem is not electrical; recently I noticed that my Ryobi stopped oiling. I used this video as a guide to take mine apart to try to get at the oiler pump bc other attempts to solve the problem haven't worked yet. So I've got it all apart except for the last step of separating the two "halves." What I can see so far is, the black oil tubes are fitted onto that aluminum thing (sorry, I don't know what it is) pretty tight and I didn't want to tear them trying to take them off and maybe blow air or kerosene through them. I'm running out now to the hardware store bc I need a long narrow torx screwdriver for the last two screws before I can take it apart the rest of the way as you have done in this vid. I ran kerosene through the oiler and it appeared to be dripping out okay; with oil tank empty, I tried blowing air through it w my air compressor; nonetheless, with bar chain oil in the tank and engine running, I am getting no flow. I guess I am asking if you have any tips or suggestions as to what else could be done to restore oil flow. (Also, do you know what that screw is just underneath the sprocket, what it does.?) Thanks for any information and thanks again for posting this video.
It’s good you were able to access that much even before you opened the case. Unfortunately, I do not have experience with the oiler not working. The oilers have been ok, when in use I frequently have to take debris out of the chain some I find myself taking that first plastic piece with chain adjustment and clear the oiler at that time.
I'm in the same boat. The tubes comes off the oil pump with a pair of needlenose. The tubes on mine are clear of obstruction. So the problem is the pump. When I take it out and try to blow air or solvent through it appears blocked. I soaked the pump in solvent for a few hours and blew it out. Still seems blocked There is also an adjuster on it which doesn't make any difference. I saw another video of different make but almost exact same pump design, so I will attempt to take the pump apart today. It's pretty basic.
Update : I couldn't get the pump to work reliably so went on a hunt to find a replacement. Ryobi was out of stock as were most parts outlets. What I did learn in the process is the pump is made by Homelite and is used in some of their models. I hit the jackpot on Ebay.ca where the new pump was cheaper than buying from Ryobi. I put in the new pump and all is golden. Tools needed for breaking down the saw is two sizes of torx screwdrivers and needlenose to pull the tubes off the pump. Just keep track of which size screw goes where as you will have many.
To find a new pump run a search on Ebay for "Oil Pump & Gear for RY40503 14" 40V Cordless Chainsaw 537485001 & 309516002"
Great help, worked for me too! Would be great though if Ryobi could have fixed the connectors better😊. Thank you!!!
You’re welcome and thank you for your feedback. Glad that you were able to fix your issue with the connectors.
I have a european version, a 36V Ryobi Chain saw, a RCS36X3550HI. It would cut out as soon as I put any pressure on it when sawing. Then it would not start until I remove the battery and put it back. I decided to try this fix. The screws vere not very loose, but anyway allowed a half turn on the screw to tigthen them properly. After this the saw would perform properly without cutting out, as long as I do not force it to really bog down.
Thanks for the feedback. I would think that if it isn’t the connections, something else I the electrical circuit may be loose. My next guess would be something malfunctioning in the speed controller itself.
Thanks. Mine just clicks when I pull the trigger like it is trying to start so hopefully that is the problem here.
mine started stuttering today ,,,, AND TONITE IT IS WONDERFUL,
OF THE 6 CONNECTIONS ONLY 3 WERE TIGHT ,, 1 was almost out of the connector.
WAS RYOBI ASLEEP WHEN THEY TIGHTEN THOSE EURO CONNECTORS ???????
thanks you saved me a ton of greif going thru the warranty process,,,, had an issue with a string trimmer; and after screwing around to get it fixed
Thank you. Glad the video was helpful and also really appreciated that you left feedback about it. Although it may have been possible that the connections were loose from using the tool in the video. But when looking inside, it seems like they also could have been loose during the assembly process.
excellent video
Thank you for watching and your compliment.
I tried all this and it still doesn't work what could it be the trigger assembly or the mother board?
Follow up. So I now know that the "aluminum thing" is the oil pump. Black tubes come off without much problem once I took it out. I see that the problem is the threads on the idk what its called, cog? that turn the little gear inside the oil pump appear worn and don't appear to be making ideal contact enough to turn it correctly. Also, it appears there once once an o-ring at the top of that cog but I think I found parts of it in turning the oil filter gear with my finger tip and wiping away little pieces of idk what, either pieces of what used to be the threads of the cog, or a thin o-ring if there ever was one. The pieces were man made, not debris or chips, etc. Point being, no wonder the threads get worn bc the cog doesn't sit that tightly; there's enough play to have created the problem I described. I'll see if I can match that cog at my local small engine repair place. Anyway thanks again. p.s. I set the playback speed on your video to .25; that helped too.
Luckily you found the problem. Other options may be include to email Ryobi with your model number see if you could order the part from directly or try to purchase a really cheap used one (with a functional oiler) and see if you could use it as a parts donor.
mine Ryobi was doing that ,they gave me a new one,, a friend got a new one and it started doing the same thing they gave him a new one too i'll have to fix it next time thanks
Thank you for leaving feedback. It’s good to know Ryobi will honor their service agreement /warranty by replacing the tool.
Any idea what causes the saw to stop as soon as I apply pressure?
Thank you for your question. My best guess to answer your question would be the same issue that is shown in this video, a worn, loose or corroded electrical connection. Aside from a bad connection, a brainstorm guess would be that a safety switch to stop the motor or regulator to slow or speed up the the motor is malfunctioning.
Any tips on getting the handle off? I have removed the 2 screws on the right hand side, but my handle won't just pop off like in the video.
missed a screw. Found loose connection on the black wires. Thanks for this great video!
Sorry for the delay. My guess would be have been an extra screw. Glad the video helped. Thank you for sharing your feedback.
After disassembly. None of the screws were loose. However, something was loose because after assembly, it works normally. For how long is anyone's guese.
Question. If that's is a 1400W chainsaw driven by a 36V4A battery, for example (let's say 160W maximum power) does that mean the motor drains almost 40A from the battery, or does it stop at 4A and the motor is in actual 160W motor with some clever torque mechanism to make it as powerful as a 1400W motor?
Thanks in advance for your reply!
I do not know the electrical specifications for the motor itself or how much electrical current the motor actually uses from the battery. Tests for the amount current would have been good but the priority was to get it to start again. It’s my opinion that the current the motor draws from the battery would change with the rpm of the motor. As far as torque mechanisms are concerned, my opinion would be that gearing and the rpm of the motor would be the things most likely to be used with these chainsaw models.
Wonderful video. Dealing with same issue. Model 40502.
Thank you for your feedback and good luck with your issue.
Did you figure anything out? I have the issue on mine but it seems those screws are tight
@@smitty2jones
I had the stutter/stop issue with my RY40502. The saw would run fine when not cutting but would stutter when I started to cut a log.
I tried this fix without success. I re-terminated both ends of the three white connectors. This did not solve my problem. After checking with Ryobi we thought the problem was a failing motor controller. Replacing it didn’t help. I replaced the trigger switch also. I noted that I didn’t see any indication of connections that had been overheated and there was no “hot electrical” smell.
In the end, I found the problem. It was mechanical. There is a small set-screw that holds the motor’s rotor to the shaft. This set screw is between the cooling fins of the rotor. I. Was able to diagnose this set-screw issue by holding the sprocket end of the motor with a wrench and pulling the trigger. The rotor could turn independently of the shaft. I could also test this (without the battery installed) by holding the sprocket end of the shaft with a wrench and turning the rotor by hand. It was tough getting the set-screw out - it’s a small allen key socket and must have loc-tite on the threads. When I got it out, I could see the end was damaged. I straightened out the end of the set-screw with a file and reinstalled it after aligning the threaded hole with what appeared to be a flat on the shaft. I had to torque it quite a bit to eliminate movement.
I’ve only made a few cuts but it seems to have solved the problem. I was surprised this was the solution because it really felt like an intermittent electrical issue.
Good luck!
Is it me or I been looking at varies ryobi brush dc motor burning after time which is normal but the new line w brushless also has a tendency on some models of tools of overheating or stop moving ( working for a couple of seconds ) on the 40v systems or is it just some rare models ? I was wondering if these happens after the warranty period of the lifespan of the tool or we should go more soft in these tools ?
As far as I know Ryobi will honor the warranty with there tools. The retailer will honor there store policies if it’s within the time frame and you have the receipt. As far as the brushless this was the first last the last model I bought, so I don’t know if this was a common issue. The other brushed models I bought never had this problem.
I have the same exact problem, what tools did you use to take it apart? I saw some long tools in this video that I’d need to go deep. I’d rather not go through Ryobi if I can do it myself.
To open the case I used Torx screw drivers. This was in addition to Phillips and flat head screw drivers. Although the fix is the shortest clip in the video, I spend a little bit of time checking and rechecking the wires in the connections to make sure they were tight.
I took it apart, i think the short is in the trigger assembly. Not sure if I can fix that, lol.
There may be a part number to replace that switch. I had to double check all the connections before I closed the case.
How long did it take to develop that issues, a bunch of use, or just weeks? Seems like the thing slowly shakes itself loose, than Breaks!
Cool, thanks for the video. Hope that's all that's wrong with my 12" that just died..
Thank you for sharing feedback. Good luck with getting your tool back up and running.
The 40502 didnt turn out to be built this was unfortunately. Ordered a new switch on a hail mary. But everything else looks super solid on connections. Multiple batteries have been tried. Stuttered for a couple days before finally failing. It's been used a lot in the rain, so my hope is the internals of the switch had a component that corroded. Everything else looks nice and shiny.
Best of luck with the new switch. These tools are really useful. With working outdoors & vibrations on the electronics and batteries it makes you appreciate them when they are up and running.
Could you redo the video and show me the 4 little screws in a close up and where they're actually located.. Your video moves kind of quick
Thank you for your feedback I'll try to follow up with the view of the screws when possible.
Cheap connectors sloppy factory assembly. All these saws are thrown together shit. Not a one has ever been built by Anyone who cares at all. Quality control department is a bunch of drunks.
I think the model after this was more power and seems to be holding up better than the one in this video. That being said written, I have not had to re-open or connect the saw in this video since this was recorded.