I agree with the guy below....use handlebars with motorcycle controls instead of a wheel. You might enjoy the extra leverage if this is as rowdy as it should be when running....
I really like how you correct original design flaws in your projects. with simple strong fixes like in the foot box area. that was the best solution you could have made for more leg room. making this kart more comfortable later. on instead of having to live with an uncomfortable vehicle in the end.
It looks like a riding mower body would fit good on it it's kinda shaped like a racing lawnmower could be the off road racing shifter mower lol good job love all your builds keep it up
I bought one of the first 50 Typhoon 230s sold. Took it out of the box and immediately ran 6061 tube. Im still in love with it every time I fire it up. I've never run it on 110v, but I'm sure it will still serve you well.
Advice on the soft tank bung. Use a large size as you did. Then install a brass bushing to reduce size. Why do that? As you found out aluminum after welding loses all temper and becomes soft. You thread in the reducer bushing with sealant once. You never remove it. Then you have a harder brass bushing to thread in your fitting for the hose. Been there done that.... had to figure out how to handle the soft aluminum welded bung situation. That is what I came up with. It worked for me. Love this build just like all of your builds. I bought the Everlast 80 amp plasma cutter and like it a lot. PS.... one more bit of advice, use band clamp style mounts for the tank not welded on tabs. Those can break off due to fatigue due to tank and gas weight. Properly done band clamps will never break or snap off. Its a gas tank so that is important. If you do insist on welding on mounts then use 2 long sections of aluminum angle as long as the tank and then drill holes and mount those in multiple locations along the angle for equal support. I have 3 old Honda Odysseys and I am building side pod style tanks that are half round welded to flat plate. The plate extends past the tank section in top sides and bottom like a flange so I can mount the tank all the way around to the side of the frame. I figure that way the entire tank is strong enough and will use the side of the frame as a brace and wont flex enough while I'm driving crazy to break the round tank part off the plate.
Your builds always amaze and entertain. It looks like those steering shafts might bend when hitting bumps in a turn. But I'm someone who has zero fab skills so take that comment with a grain of salt. Love your channel Chris. You're a hell of a fabricator and content creator.
That stinger length is going to make tuning fun. I'd run it straight down pointing to the ground at the back of the engine. Keep it close to original length.
The length of the stinger is almost completely irrelevant. What matters most is the distance from the exhaust port, through the expansion changer, to the start of the stinger. The stinger itself can be long or short with very little difference to the tune. Of course, it does affect back pressure slightly.
@@ctvxl The length/diameter of the stinger determines the pressure in the expansion chamber, which changes the speed of sound of the pressure waves that make the expansion chamber work. With higher pressure effectively shortens the expansion chamber and also hampers exhaust flow. The stinger length/diameter are critical parts of expansion chamber design.
You should call that shifter cart The Rhino . Because the pipe up front looks like the horn on their snout. 👌☺️👍 it looks sweet but the steering wheel is to straight up and down, but if it's comfortable then leave it. 👌☺️👍. Keep up the great work. 😊👍
Cool build! With a high steering wheel like that it might be uncomfortable to drive. If you want to keep that angle a handlebar is the right choice. You are great man, i think that these projects are really cool and fun to drive!!
With the steering wheel facing straight up like that, it makes it look like a big rig. I'd make the exhaust on this look like a smoke stack. Oh, btw, you should make a diesel mini kart.
WARNING CHRIS! That small and long endpipe can increase the pressure which will increase the heat in both exhaust and engine. I would recommend you to use a pipe that is larger than the stinger(end piece of the expansion chamber). The length of the stinger does also affect the pressure so when we calculate the pipes we have to consider the length when building.
I love your fabrication work, your attention to details is really amazing. This build looks so much like a racing lawn mower that a modified hood and fenders might actually look good on it. You might want to look into a gasoline portable power generator to get the 220 (or maybe even 440!) power that you really, REALLY need for the shop. Love the channel, and I can't wait for your next video!
The nice thing about Everlast, is the warranty they have on their equipment. I've been looking at the MIG/Stick Cyclone from them for a while. I'm hoping to put 240v in the garage at some point soon to run better equipment.
I've said it before, I'll say it again lol. One of these projects you should select a bike engine that you can install a Rekluse auto clutch on, not sure of they have them for the cr125 or not. Then you can still use the clutch if desired, but you can run without it as well. You should spend some time learning about 2 stroke jetting and exhaust tuning. 2 strokes are great as they can pack a lot of power in small lightweight packages, but, if you don't understand how your changes will affect the engine performance you open yourself to frustration and disappointment in how they run (mini baja) You've got lots of great ideas, and your fab skills are improving with each project. Steering (ackerman, bump steer) and suspension (anti squat, etc) geometry are good topics to read up on.
Nice job on the tank. I wish i had the equipment to build things like this. Ive learned quite a bit watching you work and i cant say that about many people i see on youtube.
The very steep angle on the steering shaft might look a bit odd, but it will help you keep stable in the seat when driving over rough ground. This is because the direction you move your arms for steering is different to the dirrection you use for bracing your body.
Always a pleasure to see what you are up to. While I enjoy the other one man show ( think Hayabusa swaps) you are my favorite. There is plenty of UA-cam for everyone. P.S. Score on the new welder!
Your entire exhaust is now a huge expansion chaber.. much larger than designed. and with who knows what kind of dijeridoo properties? Put some flute holes in there to play different notes along the drive. It is not going to run well like that. Twist the exhaust over and let it exit the side, with muffler measured for such a 2 stroke... out the side. Nice new welder! Major upgrade.
Your steering had what is called ackerman. Usually you want the inner tire to turn more than the outer due to the inner tire being on a smaller turn diameter. This is usually more noticeable on low speed turns.
He's very familiar with 'Ackerman', but good eye. His dual mounted tie-rods were wrong.The center pivot will fix, versus the 1 side he showed tested of the 2.
Instead of muffler wrap you could consider some sort of heat shield for that exhaust pipe. Also, I'd put larger diameter tires on it if you're going to do much actual off roading. That brake disk looks real close to the ground. If its just meant for a dirt track then those tires should be fine.
I love the tank design, I wish you made 2 tanks and mounted them up front on both sides, one as reserve, That way, it would be gravity fed as a plus you could mount lights right on the front of either side.
Hey dude. Nice job. I have a solution for steering. You've got alot of space down there and the way you have it is perfect for a rack and pinion. Just make an open rack with access to the centre so you can put the two tie rods close together how you had them first.
And remember grind hards 2nd barbie Jeep? They've got a chain and similar rear suspension to you just more conventional live axle set-up. I think you'll find that rear suspension set-up might be unpredictable on corners at speeds.
Love the build man💪🏻 could look nice if you could fit a lawnmower front it and the rear fender on it to when you are going ti rip it around could be a badass look for sure💪🏻 keep up the good work 🤟🏻
just because the steering geometry is extreme that doesn't mean it is bad. Plenty of reasons to use such extreme ackerman angles. It can help with understeer from a solid rear axel probably.
Well it looks like a pretty dope tractor that’s forsure lol. I love everything you build but that steering wheel bro. Maybe use moto bars, think that would look pretty dope, and feel a lot better with a twist throttle and clutch. Just an idea. A for the exhaust by your right foot, looks like you could just roll that mesh around it and tac it in. I’m sure in the end it’s guna looks dope. You usually have good taste when it comes to this sort of thing.
Kind of wondering why you did not use a chain link for the steering, it would have allowed for a much shallower steering wheel angle and would be more comfortable and look less lawnmower, Simply shortening the steering shaft from the steering wheel to 3 or 4" pick the angle then add a small cog on the back then then make a adjustable mounting system at the bottom to hold the steering rod and add another cog of the same size and then add a chain and reinforce it all ( the adjustable part is to tension the chain and remove steering slop )
Rotate and modify the expansion chamber so to goes out the side. It will have so little impact on performance you will not notice unless you are seriously racing and only then it will be on the top end. It just looks horrible sticking up like that. You might also dump the exhaust behind the front tire out the side and get rid of all that extra pipe and keep it away from your feet more. I would also tip that steering wheel down a little bit so it looks less like a tractor.
Not kidding.... Next time u start a build, use the engine to start from and work out from there... It'll be way easier to get dimensions Right on everything else along the way.. trust me... It works .
That extra long exhaust stinger is going to mess with the engine. Two stroke expansion chambers use a pressure wave bouncing back from the end to keep the fuel from coming out the exhaust port.
I watch all your videos I really enjoy your work I think for steering instead of the tractor look maybe handle bars I think it would definitely be different but cool just an idea
Wait the hell a minute. You've built all this stuff with 110v equipment?! Dude that rips. I never noticed. He'll I didn't even know 110v plasma cutters were a thing and that aluminum looks pretty damned decent for a low voltage machine.
I agree with the guy below....use handlebars with motorcycle controls instead of a wheel. You might enjoy the extra leverage if this is as rowdy as it should be when running....
Agreed ✌️
125cc rowdy? It's not a CR 500
Its not a CR 500 yet
@@bustinyanutz4195 Go look at some 125cc shifter kart action and then come tell me that....
@@ManiacRacingthis will be considerably heavier than a on track shifter kart. If it’s truly a 125 then it’s power will be disappointing.
My weekend is complete when a Rather B Welding video is uploaded
Same here after the laundry is done and the groceries are put away. I get to relax and see what Chris has finished up this week.
I really like how you correct original design flaws in your projects. with simple strong fixes like in the foot box area. that was the best solution you could have made for more leg room. making this kart more comfortable later. on instead of having to live with an uncomfortable vehicle in the end.
It looks like a riding mower body would fit good on it it's kinda shaped like a racing lawnmower could be the off road racing shifter mower lol good job love all your builds keep it up
After you said it looks like a tractor I said YES!!! You should keep going with it and make it look like a riding lawnmower.
I bought one of the first 50 Typhoon 230s sold. Took it out of the box and immediately ran 6061 tube. Im still in love with it every time I fire it up. I've never run it on 110v, but I'm sure it will still serve you well.
One thing you REALLY need to add is a chain guard, that thing lets go at high speed and you'll be singing soprano.
Advice on the soft tank bung. Use a large size as you did. Then install a brass bushing to reduce size. Why do that? As you found out aluminum after welding loses all temper and becomes soft. You thread in the reducer bushing with sealant once. You never remove it. Then you have a harder brass bushing to thread in your fitting for the hose. Been there done that.... had to figure out how to handle the soft aluminum welded bung situation. That is what I came up with. It worked for me. Love this build just like all of your builds. I bought the Everlast 80 amp plasma cutter and like it a lot.
PS.... one more bit of advice, use band clamp style mounts for the tank not welded on tabs. Those can break off due to fatigue due to tank and gas weight. Properly done band clamps will never break or snap off. Its a gas tank so that is important.
If you do insist on welding on mounts then use 2 long sections of aluminum angle as long as the tank and then drill holes and mount those in multiple locations along the angle for equal support.
I have 3 old Honda Odysseys and I am building side pod style tanks that are half round welded to flat plate. The plate extends past the tank section in top sides and bottom like a flange so I can mount the tank all the way around to the side of the frame. I figure that way the entire tank is strong enough and will use the side of the frame as a brace and wont flex enough while I'm driving crazy to break the round tank part off the plate.
Your builds always amaze and entertain. It looks like those steering shafts might bend when hitting bumps in a turn. But I'm someone who has zero fab skills so take that comment with a grain of salt. Love your channel Chris. You're a hell of a fabricator and content creator.
I think it's about time you hire an electrician to install a 220v circuit in your shop!
That stinger length is going to make tuning fun. I'd run it straight down pointing to the ground at the back of the engine. Keep it close to original length.
The length of the stinger is almost completely irrelevant. What matters most is the distance from the exhaust port, through the expansion changer, to the start of the stinger. The stinger itself can be long or short with very little difference to the tune. Of course, it does affect back pressure slightly.
@@ctvxlNot slightly. A lot. And it will definitely affect the tune. A lot.
@@ctvxl The length/diameter of the stinger determines the pressure in the expansion chamber, which changes the speed of sound of the pressure waves that make the expansion chamber work. With higher pressure effectively shortens the expansion chamber and also hampers exhaust flow. The stinger length/diameter are critical parts of expansion chamber design.
You are my favorite channel on UA-cam right now. You rock at you do!
That's like the perfect Ackermann with the single pivot point for the steering.
I agree I think he should keep as it was
Definitely Perfect Ackerman and will help with steering a lot!
An ATV style front bumper would look good 👍
That small diameter exhaust tubing over that increased distance might lead to some additional unwanted back pressure.
I came here to say that
The escape should go directly down to do not loose power or change the resonance....
Stoked for the upgrade! Looking forward to the “next level” in your builds from it!
he already has a tig though, nothing will change.
Still look like a hot rod tractor.. or 20’s racer.. don’t get me wrong I love this!
Thanks for filming again Chris. 😁👍🏼
A lot of builders make an exhaust for their projects ! This guy just made a project around his exhaust 🤓
you aint lying
Have had an everlast mts 225 a few years, great dependable welders!
Pretty cool lawn mower you're building
A lawn mower hood would look sick on that
I sure hope it’s a John Deer when all said and done.
This is wholesome entertainment!!!
As quick as that thing steers, I think you need a Roll bar ! it's looking good ! those motor mounts are alot better ! good work !
Mad Max wants his go-cart back !
Bros wanting to go farming 😂. Looking forward for this chris!!
that's a good looking yard tractor.
That thing looks like it will be a riot.
You should call that shifter cart The Rhino . Because the pipe up front looks like the horn on their snout. 👌☺️👍 it looks sweet but the steering wheel is to straight up and down, but if it's comfortable then leave it. 👌☺️👍. Keep up the great work. 😊👍
extending that stinger pipe is going to effect preformance for sure , it is way to long from the expansion pipe to the muffler
I'm curious to see how the extended stinger pipe affects the tune of engine. A lawn tractor hood and grill would look awesome on there.
My thoughts exactly ✌️
lower torque in the low range , he should have cut and shut the expansion chamber to route the pipe better than add a 200ft long stinger lol
I can't wait to see this one done and shredding through the trails
Loving your projects, and the variety in your videos! Always a highlight to a Sunday evening in the UK,😊Thank you!
Cool build! With a high steering wheel like that it might be uncomfortable to drive. If you want to keep that angle a handlebar is the right choice. You are great man, i think that these projects are really cool and fun to drive!!
With the steering wheel facing straight up like that, it makes it look like a big rig. I'd make the exhaust on this look like a smoke stack. Oh, btw, you should make a diesel mini kart.
Chris, just chase the threads and use a 1/2 x 1/4" bushing. Less werk, wurk, work!!! Needless to say, keep up the good work, my friend.
Looks like a racing lawnmower build.
That’s how race carts steer I build my go carts for speed stability and control and this is fine
WARNING CHRIS! That small and long endpipe can increase the pressure which will increase the heat in both exhaust and engine. I would recommend you to use a pipe that is larger than the stinger(end piece of the expansion chamber). The length of the stinger does also affect the pressure so when we calculate the pipes we have to consider the length when building.
👍
That welder definitely puts in work😈👊🏼
I love your fabrication work, your attention to details is really amazing. This build looks so much like a racing lawn mower that a modified hood and fenders might actually look good on it. You might want to look into a gasoline portable power generator to get the 220 (or maybe even 440!) power that you really, REALLY need for the shop. Love the channel, and I can't wait for your next video!
he doesnt need 440v doofus
The nice thing about Everlast, is the warranty they have on their equipment. I've been looking at the MIG/Stick Cyclone from them for a while. I'm hoping to put 240v in the garage at some point soon to run better equipment.
I've said it before, I'll say it again lol. One of these projects you should select a bike engine that you can install a Rekluse auto clutch on, not sure of they have them for the cr125 or not. Then you can still use the clutch if desired, but you can run without it as well.
You should spend some time learning about 2 stroke jetting and exhaust tuning. 2 strokes are great as they can pack a lot of power in small lightweight packages, but, if you don't understand how your changes will affect the engine performance you open yourself to frustration and disappointment in how they run (mini baja)
You've got lots of great ideas, and your fab skills are improving with each project.
Steering (ackerman, bump steer) and suspension (anti squat, etc) geometry are good topics to read up on.
Thunder is a result of lightning.
I was thinking that too....
Add a tiny truck bed and tractor cowel like someone mentioned. Fast ass miniature doodle bug.
Nice job on the tank. I wish i had the equipment to build things like this. Ive learned quite a bit watching you work and i cant say that about many people i see on youtube.
Nice build as always.
I think that's a great idea!
U are a genius w/that lathe🏁😉
The word you are looking for that the tie rods are connected to on the steering column is a pitman arm
The very steep angle on the steering shaft might look a bit odd, but it will help you keep stable in the seat when driving over rough ground. This is because the direction you move your arms for steering is different to the dirrection you use for bracing your body.
hey, great work as always. A chain drive steering setup might be wicked in this scenario!
this thing looks so weird, the whale head front frame, long ass exhaust pipe, the steel mesh foot rests. i kind of love it.
That thing looks weird, but really cool at the same time. Like the hero prop out of a post apocalyptic movie.
Looks kinda like a Rhino! I like it!
Always a pleasure to see what you are up to. While I enjoy the other one man show ( think Hayabusa swaps) you are my favorite. There is plenty of UA-cam for everyone.
P.S. Score on the new welder!
Sears suburban hood and grille would work, and hide that expansion chamber... It would also give you a place to put a radiator and lights
it almost looks like a riding lawnmower, which I think is awesome
Your entire exhaust is now a huge expansion chaber.. much larger than designed.
and with who knows what kind of dijeridoo properties? Put some flute holes in there to play different notes along the drive.
It is not going to run well like that. Twist the exhaust over and let it exit the side, with muffler measured for such a 2 stroke... out the side.
Nice new welder! Major upgrade.
Your steering had what is called ackerman. Usually you want the inner tire to turn more than the outer due to the inner tire being on a smaller turn diameter. This is usually more noticeable on low speed turns.
Correct, but you still don't want to have one tire steering while the other one isn't
He's very familiar with 'Ackerman', but good eye. His dual mounted tie-rods were wrong.The center pivot will fix, versus the 1 side he showed tested of the 2.
Ahhh the Grave Ninja what's that thing up to? You really got cars and cameras going with that thing 🔥🔥
Instead of muffler wrap you could consider some sort of heat shield for that exhaust pipe. Also, I'd put larger diameter tires on it if you're going to do much actual off roading. That brake disk looks real close to the ground. If its just meant for a dirt track then those tires should be fine.
I would highly recommend a metal exhaust cover for that pipe to keep your foot and leg off it.
For sure use dirt bike bars! It would be very easy for you to add the controls. Use thumb throttle from quad, normal clutch and front brake perch.
dirt bike handles have a throttle, why would he make a thumb throttle? Do yall even think before you type?
This cart would look and work good with ape hanger handle bars.
Another idea might to incorporate the frame into part of the exhaust.
Aimplesmente fantástico seus projetos amigo!!!
Boa sorte sempre!!!
I love the tank design, I wish you made 2 tanks and mounted them up front on both sides, one as reserve, That way, it would be gravity fed as a plus you could mount lights right on the front of either side.
Honestly I think it would be sweet if you put a lawn mower hood on it and rear fenders Baja mower build
I wouldn't mind seeing a no compromises build.
A GOOD JOB I LOVE IT
Sei un grande, aggiungi uno schermo tra il serbatoio e lo scarico...👍
Hey dude. Nice job. I have a solution for steering. You've got alot of space down there and the way you have it is perfect for a rack and pinion. Just make an open rack with access to the centre so you can put the two tie rods close together how you had them first.
And remember grind hards 2nd barbie Jeep? They've got a chain and similar rear suspension to you just more conventional live axle set-up. I think you'll find that rear suspension set-up might be unpredictable on corners at speeds.
Ever thought of a battery bank for your 220 need? You'd be surprised how well it works and how long the battery can last. Maybe get a sponsor for one.
Love the build man💪🏻 could look nice if you could fit a lawnmower front it and the rear fender on it to when you are going ti rip it around could be a badass look for sure💪🏻 keep up the good work 🤟🏻
HANDLEBARS !!!
Coolest tractor go cart ever
Lookin Rowdy 💪☮️
I am always a fan of half way able to adjust my steering column.
just because the steering geometry is extreme that doesn't mean it is bad. Plenty of reasons to use such extreme ackerman angles. It can help with understeer from a solid rear axel probably.
Well it looks like a pretty dope tractor that’s forsure lol.
I love everything you build but that steering wheel bro. Maybe use moto bars, think that would look pretty dope, and feel a lot better with a twist throttle and clutch. Just an idea.
A for the exhaust by your right foot, looks like you could just roll that mesh around it and tac it in.
I’m sure in the end it’s guna looks dope. You usually have good taste when it comes to this sort of thing.
Are we sure he’s not building a BADASS yard tractor lol
Nice build! A tractor body would be awsome on that thing. But that stingerpipe is waaaaaaaaaaaay to long!
Man if you slap a John deer hood on it, it would make a nice racing mower
Kind of wondering why you did not use a chain link for the steering, it would have allowed for a much shallower steering wheel angle and would be more comfortable and look less lawnmower, Simply shortening the steering shaft from the steering wheel to 3 or 4" pick the angle then add a small cog on the back then then make a adjustable mounting system at the bottom to hold the steering rod and add another cog of the same size and then add a chain and reinforce it all ( the adjustable part is to tension the chain and remove steering slop )
I got a step up transformer for my welder and it seems to work pretty well
You could record that rotary transformer noise on CD and sell it as merch 😊 we don’t have such in Europe.
Rotate and modify the expansion chamber so to goes out the side. It will have so little impact on performance you will not notice unless you are seriously racing and only then it will be on the top end. It just looks horrible sticking up like that. You might also dump the exhaust behind the front tire out the side and get rid of all that extra pipe and keep it away from your feet more. I would also tip that steering wheel down a little bit so it looks less like a tractor.
Not kidding.... Next time u start a build, use the engine to start from and work out from there... It'll be way easier to get dimensions Right on everything else along the way.. trust me... It works .
I built an off road cart. & thought it was bad ass. But your’s is way better
That extra long exhaust stinger is going to mess with the engine. Two stroke expansion chambers use a pressure wave bouncing back from the end to keep the fuel from coming out the exhaust port.
You really need to put a vintage lawn mower hood in that to make it more attractive.
I watch all your videos I really enjoy your work I think for steering instead of the tractor look maybe handle bars I think it would definitely be different but cool just an idea
to help the steering geometry cross the rod ends over so the left rod end connects to the right side and right to left side.
Throw an older garden tractor hood on there it’ll look super sweet
might want to put a vent in the gas tank, awesome build
Wait the hell a minute.
You've built all this stuff with 110v equipment?! Dude that rips. I never noticed. He'll I didn't even know 110v plasma cutters were a thing and that aluminum looks pretty damned decent for a low voltage machine.
he has 200v, with his extension cord.
Might as well go with the "Tractor" Look.... put a lawnmower hood on it
Ohh man , you really need to fix the angel of that steering wheel. I´m getting "Old MacDonald"-vibes from that one.
definitely has the lawn tractor vibe...