I bring tube repair patches (instant stick ones) so that I can stick them to the inside of TYRE. This adds an extra layer of safety as I’ve learned in a hard way. That tiny defect in the tyre can allow sand to seep in and puncture the tube again.
I have fixed many punctures since a friend, a mechanic, taught me and showed me how to do it riding on the road, 12 years ago. Nevertheless, I have learned a few new keys in this video. Manon makes it look SO easy I can only envy her skills. Thank you GCN. 👉🚴💪😎
I've often told people who are new at getting into road cycling to practice changing a tube or fixing a flat at home before ever getting out on the road. At least that way they'll have some understanding and familiarity with their particular setup, and some basic skills for doing a roadside repair.
Super refresher/intro to tire changing Manon !!! Well done and very clear and easy to follow for those who need it and there are way more out there than will admit it! One of the tricks I learned from an old hand mechanic at my community bike shop was for super tight difficult to put back on again tire beads at the end. If you keep the tube mostly deflated at this stage and push/seat the bead deep in the well at the bottom of the tire, and keep deep seating (almost to the spokes inside) then it will be easier to get the tough last bit over the rim and not have to use tire levers which could pinch youir new tube. After it is over, of course, you need to get the bead back up to the edge of the rim but pumping/checking is your friend here. Love this content and have it bookmarked. Great to have a female presenter doing repair videos! Well done all!!
Manon is just gorgeous :-) . For the last bit of the tyre if you don‘t have the right tool, you can also stand on the tyre and put it in with your feet. That helped me changing a 57mm TLE tyre from Schwalbe.
I’ve learned the hard way, do not use your bare fingers to sweep the tire. Slicing your finger tip open on a sliver of steel or glass has taught me to use a cloth.
Just be careful when doing so, you wont feel the object using a cloth. Using your fingers is the way to go, you can visually inspect it first if you're that much of a beta male.
I've been riding on luck for years... never had a flat somehow, and never learned how to deal with one. Today my luck ran out. I made it home, and I had just watched this video a couple days ago, so I knew what to do! Thanks Manon... this video could not have been more perfectly timed. 😅
One important tip not on the video. For a stubborn tyre which is hard to get the last bit of tyre over the rim, it helps to break the bead on the other side of the tyre as well, push beads on both sides of the tube towards the centre of the rim where the rim bed is the deepest (i.e. wheel diameter is the smallest) then push the tyres towards the last bit that has not been pushed over to get more ‘slack’ in the tyre. Usually I find I don’t need to use the tyre lever to get the last bit of tyre on if I do this.
I always try to put enough air back in the tube so I can find the hole then I know where to look on the tire for the cause of the hole. This is why lining your tire label with the valve is a good habit.
When removing the inner tube is always a good idea to keep track of which direction it was mounted, then pump it up until you can detect the puncture. At this point you know in which position on the tire to accurately look for possible sharp objects still embedded in the rubber. This saves you *a lot* of tires going flat again ten minutes after you've finished the fix.
You made it look so easy. I must have heavy duty tires because I have such a hard time with the start and the finish of getting the tire bead on/ off. I have learned those little hook things on the tire iron hook on to the spoke if I need to use all three! Keeps it from popping off while I’m working away from it!
A rag or handkerchief will catch on a protruding spike and save your skin. Certainly don't want a piece of staple that's rusty and been under a rat, dog, or fox relieving itself before sticking into your finger!
Many useful comments below. Sorry if repeating any. If tyre soft but not completely flat and using rim brakes, you might have to let all the air out to get the tyre out of the brakes (assuming you have set the blocks just 1 or 2 mm clear of a nice and true rim). Spare tube is useful so you can take the punctured tube out, find hold, apply glue (if not using ready to stick patches) and leave it to go tacky while... check tyre for thorns, staples, pins, etc that are still there to puncture the new tube; chalk dust the inside of the tyre; put in the new (or patched from a previous puncture) tube, pump up etc;... by which time the glue will have become tacky (depending on temperature and humidity) so you can apply patch; apply chalk dust to stop exposed glue sticking to whatever you don't want it to stick to; roll up the repaired tube; Ride off to the wedding 50 miles from home that you were going to (suit in panniers) or your fiancée you were planning to meet up with after the wedding; bonk (in the cycling sense) and phone fiancée you can't make it; in days before mobile phones, ask about nearest tube station and get on tube train that allows bikes; go home. When fiancée comments about it next time you meet up, say she is to you like a Mars bar or can of Seven-Up to a bonked out cyclist... and she understands the metaphor!!!
When I repair my tube, I always test it after full pressure for 24 hours to make sure the repair is OK, it did happen to me once the patch was sealing perfectly the hole
I’ve oscillated between starting at valve or opposite for reseating. I think with tight set ups, opposite is a touch easier to get the tyre in deepest part of the channel. This looked smoother than my changes though :-)
When GCN do these videos, we invariably get loads of comments with great suggestions / corrections / exceptions from the community. These would be great to have in the main video, which makes me wonder if the new GCN membership scheme could have draft videos a week early, so that any amends, etc. could be picked up and added to the video for wider release? Would definitely make for better reference and how-to videos!
That's a very interesting idea 👀We're always looking to make the best content we can, so many videos have been shaped by our community. That's what it's all about 🙌
When inserting the new tube I put the valve in first and then partially inflate. You can lose air through the valve if you partially inflate it outside of the tyre and take the pump head off. The pressure inside the tube might not be enough to push the core closed.
*pfffffssssssst* Got my first puncture out riding this week, but no worries I thought -- this is what I've trained for 😂 Always carry a spare tube, a patch kit, levers and a mini pump. Let's do this! Removed the punctured tube, got ready to put in the new one, aaaaand pump doesn't work (degraded seal I think?). Didn't see that one coming...
Ah yes. The sage of the never used pump... until it's needed. One of the little tasks to put in the smart phone calendar to check once a month before a ride
Use reusable adjustable zip tie to put stubborn tyres on. Put the feeding bit against the rim and tighten it down, this squashed the tyre making it easier to put the last bit of tyre on.
It's a useful tip for putting on puncture proof tyres such as Schwalbe marathon plus or Continental contact plus. You should do a contest with staff trying to put marathon plus tyres.
It often is easier to work the tire away from the edge of the rim opposite of the valve with your hands so it can sit deeper in the middle of the rim. This gives a few millimeters of tolerance to make it easier to get it over the edge of the rim on the opposite side, close to the valve. With some tires this is the only way to get them on or off the rim without excessive force.
Sliding the lever around between the tire and the rim can damage the rubber around the bead of the tire (due to friction). It might not cause any problems but there's no reason to risk it. You can just keep levering the bead off the rim in different spots until it comes off.
Carry a tube and insert in the tire. As stated elsewhere in this tread, it is having this kind of experience several times that convinced me to give up on tubeless. Tubes are much easier and much less mess. Tubeless replaces a minor problem with a major annoyance.
The drive wheels actually come with some very good glassfibre tirelevers. They don't leave small chunks of plastic and don't damage the rim. I sold the wheels, kept the levers 😅
or if you are on tubeless push the tyre plug into the tyre with the appropriate tool, pump it up and spin the wheel to let the sealant work. It works for 90% of my punctures, no need to even remove the wheel from the bike. I believe plugs or strips are meant to be temporary but they are normally OK to fit and forget for most punctures.
Fine for modern low pressure wide tyres. But some of us have old bikes with 23C tyres and little room for anything bigger. 120 psi doesn't work well with sealant. Pension doesn't stretch to the (much better) back to the 1960s size of tyre and rim width
@@cuebj It has worked fine for about 100psi on 28mm tyres as the majority of my punctures are small and slow rather than blow outs. I do agree that it would probably not work at higher pressures on a larger puncture so its not foolproof but may reduce the number of punctures that you have to stop for.
@@cuebj I used to use tubeless sealant in my tubes before I went tubeless. It was OK on 28mm tyres at about 100psi (I am a Clydesdale) You have to make sure to buy tubes with a removable valve core. I think it would be ok on small punctures in 23mm tyres but would probably just blow out of a bigger puncture leaving you with the suspicious white goo all over your arse and back! But tyre plugs are obviously useless if your using tubes.
Where putting the tyre backon start opposite the value sowhen at the finish you can put the cap back on and if needed push up with the value to roll the tyre on...
Before using tyre lever at the top. You squeeze the tyre to the center of the rim at the bottom. That is the whole point why rims are built with lower centers.
One more thing: if out on road using a mini pump, far better to have one with a hose that screws onto Presta valve AND has a pressure release button to release pressure in the pump so you can unscrew it once you've got the pressure you want.
Last weekend I punctured and when I started to get my spare tube out, I noticed that I had the tire insert in and no way to go for the gunky thing. I think carrying a folded up plastic bag for this situation might be a good idea.
Could anyone tell me what would definitely be recommended for roadbike tires these days? Tubeless? inner tuber? Is the traditional inner tube like the one in the video still the favorite of cyclists in general? any real advantage other than cost-benefit?
Check your tube for the location of holes before completely removing it from the rim! After pulling the tube out, inflate it a little to inspect for the puncture. This will make it far easier to identify where some foreign material may be lodged in your tire before sweeping your bare fingers through the inside of the tire. Also, learn to identify what different types of punctures look like and where they are located. For example, many people might miss that their rim tape is damaged or out of place.
My tires are way to stubborn for me to just insert the leavers. I have to pinch the deflated tire all the way around first to get it slacker and create space. Same again before I put the tire back on. Could just be me though: haven’t got the strength in my arms I used to have.
When you're being watched by 8 "mates" I guarantee that 4 will say "don't start at the valve" and the other 4 will say "don't start opposite the valve". I'm also going to say that you should carefully remove the tube if you intend to repair so you don't stretch it out.
Practice at home. Get someone to stick a pin in your tyre without you knowing. When inflating, put 10 psi in and check the tyre's concentricity. Making sure the bead is in the clincher. Then pump it up.
Pro tip : you might not always be able to see or feel whatever has caused the puncture. try not to let the tyre move around, then inflate the tube and find where the hole is. Then line up the tube on the wheel and this will help you find the culprit in the right area of the tyre
I've always taken the tire off completely. It never occurred to me to just leave it and remove the tube with it on still. I'm sure if I do this it won't look as smooth and easy as when Manon did it.
I think it is worthwhile, before removing the wheel from the bike, to rotate the wheel, checking to see what may have caused the puncture. Most of the time, the cause can be found then.
I think that super important thing that is missing in this video is to check the tire for any objects that caused the puncture and can potentially make you stop in 5 minutes to go with the same work again. Of course if you're lucky enough to have another spare inner tube ;)
You need to rewatch this video, she covers the need to sweep the inside of the tire to make sure whatever caused the flat is still not in the tire. She used her bare fingers. I had left a comment that using a cloth maybe a better option having sliced my finger tips on a piece of metal or glass.
That's the way I do it, seems like I can get more clearance that way because there's more room to get the tyre opposite of the stem down deeper into the center of the rim. Is that the reason you do it that way or is there another advantage
@@saddleweary2777 the valve takes more space then the rest off the tire can not get to the middle at that spot so this is always a pressure point, to take it of if you start at valve you take away most pressure at first , to put the tire on you end at the valve !
@@saddleweary2777 with the smallest wheel and the biggest tire Manon used you can change the tire while standing on your head drinking a beer lol it don't matter 😀
I find it easier to stick a patch on the tube. For this I don't even have to remove the wheel and a set of patches is much less luggage than a tube. If all goes well I need 15 minutes for the whole process.
Pro Tip from someone who lives in a city that essentially paved their road with broken glass: 1) Use your old inner tube to help locate the cause of your flat. Make note of how it was removed from the wheel, then give it a few pumps and you should hear the dreaded "pssssst" sound. Line it up with the tire and you're 99% there. This can be especially useful when you have a small leak caused by an even smaller piece of glass or when your flat was caused by some other issue (rim tape, dinged rim, bad stem, etc.) 2) Throw a bit of baby powder inside of your tire and then rotate it so it is has coated the inside of it (doesn't have to be perfect) before you try and put your tube in. This helps to prevent the new tube from getting stuck to the tire during instillation (rubber loves to stick to rubber), which can lead to you accidentally pinching during the install. 3) New full bead tires can be a pain in the butt to get on the first time (shout out to my schwalbe marathon users). You can use zip ties as a third or fourth hand to help with the install, then you can just snip them off when you're done. I personally have not used this trick yet, but found out about it after my last battle with a new full bead tire and have kept it in my back pocket. 4) Personally, I like taking the whole tire off the wheel when I go to reinstall. I feel like it gives me a bit more room to work with and can make locating the cause of the flat a bit easier. After all, getting the first side back on a wheel is super easy, it's that last 20% of the second side where things get a bit tougher. Also on the note of fully removing the tire, similar to this video, putting a bit of air into the tube will hold it in place inside of the wheel no prob during install. 5) Some tires are directional, so make sure you reinstall it the right way. Might not be that big of a deal, but it's such a silly thing to get wrong...and one I have done countless times. 6) Patching tubes is easy and more economical than replacing it out right...but also patches don't always take. Do yourself a favor and don't try and learn on the side of the road, just bring a spare. I say this as someone who has NEVER been able to properly patch a tube. I've tried so many times only to be screwing the quick release back on and hear "pssssst". Annoying when at home, infuriating when trying to get home from work. (this is probably just a me issue lol)
It will often depend on how tough the tyre is. If you can removing the tyre without the levers is best! Once the tyre is fully deflated you should be able to roll it off the rim 🙌
You should not put the patched tube into your pocket as next-time spare, because the last thing you want is a badly-patched and leaky tube next time you have a puncture. Instead, once home, you should patch the tube, and put it back in the tyre. You can test it keeps the air before the next ride, and you have the (almost) new tube as spare again.
As someone who saw plenty of stuff in trips... i can tell you.... if you dont have anything on you... and you dont have 1000€ wheels, filling your tire with grass does the job until you arrive to civilization. And as someone said... video might improve from having a yt edited lil section... *BE CAREFULL about inspecting the tire, put a cloth around your fingers cus you WILL get cut if its glass, a nail or something really sharp.
I disagree on where to start on the tire once the tube is installed. Start opposite of the valve and start working the tire on evenly until you get back to the valve this way you can push the valve up out of the way so the tire lever or the bead of the tire can't pinch the tube. Spent a lot of years changing off road motorcycle tires which are a lot harder and you would pinch them every time if you started at the valve.
Or...go tubeless and hope the hole is small and on the tyre tread, in which case it will probably self repair. If it's a big hole in side wall, and you have zero patience, a taxi home might be the order of the day!
I've ridden tubeless on terrible roads for the last 2800 miles with no punctures, no lies, no regrets. But I would love to be prepared with a video showing me what to do in case I do get a puncture, especially as my rims are hookless, so I can't pop a spare tube in...
I see the video and I begin to feel ashamed because every single swap of inner tube is like a war with the rim and/or the tyre and/or my sweat (usually everyone of them) and after one hour of this fight I say: 😫😡🤬🚳 I was a fool for beginning biking _ this! But of course I like to ride in the forests and on the roads so I keep biking 🤷♂
If you are on the side of the road wouldn't it be better to just patch it to get home 🤔 I wouldn't particularly want to remove a wheel on the roadside.
Cool, when is AI expected to take over personal training? Since automation is so straightforward, fitness coaches not using it might be left behind. AI----how do i change a flat---. Or even worse..change it for me
Well that doesn't tell us anything about repairing tubular tyres! I'd very much like to see what stitch is used and how to do it. I keep asking for tub repair video and I'm beginning to suspect none of the presenters know how to repair them, so I'm recording one myself for my channel
Dont think those can be repaired... Replaced sure but repaired no as you cant get to the insides Also unless crap a tubular tyre has a gum layer to seal punctures
Share your puncture tips in the comments 💬
Did you show this video to Alex? He needs your advice :D
While the innertube is mostly out, I like to slightly inflate it with a pump to see where air was leaking out. Helps finding the source of the leak.
Pump the punctured inner tube up if it’s unclear where the leak was, that way you know where to look in the tire
Exactly the way I do it too. Lay the tube straight back on top of the tyre and get pumping!
Happy tp see GCN go back to their roots of bike repair guides! ❤
I bring tube repair patches (instant stick ones) so that I can stick them to the inside of TYRE. This adds an extra layer of safety as I’ve learned in a hard way. That tiny defect in the tyre can allow sand to seep in and puncture the tube again.
sometimes the perfect timing of subjects makes me feel like GCN can read my mind.
we do our best!
I have fixed many punctures since a friend, a mechanic, taught me and showed me how to do it riding on the road, 12 years ago. Nevertheless, I have learned a few new keys in this video. Manon makes it look SO easy I can only envy her skills. Thank you GCN. 👉🚴💪😎
This is the most basic of videos, but when is Manon doing the teaching, I must watch all 7 minutes and 21 seconds of it.
23 seconds
I had to watch several times.
Exactly. She's the best GCN presenter.
@@DaigoroToyama indeed, she is.
It's purely to get the channel sponsors in.
I'm not on the side of the road but I am fixing to fix an inner tube so this is a timely video, and it's just nice to have some inspiration from Manon
Is so cool
I've often told people who are new at getting into road cycling to practice changing a tube or fixing a flat at home before ever getting out on the road. At least that way they'll have some understanding and familiarity with their particular setup, and some basic skills for doing a roadside repair.
great tip! Nothing like having to try and figure it out for the first time at the side of the road when it's chucking it down with rain ☔
Super refresher/intro to tire changing Manon !!! Well done and very clear and easy to follow for those who need it and there are way more out there than will admit it! One of the tricks I learned from an old hand mechanic at my community bike shop was for super tight difficult to put back on again tire beads at the end. If you keep the tube mostly deflated at this stage and push/seat the bead deep in the well at the bottom of the tire, and keep deep seating (almost to the spokes inside) then it will be easier to get the tough last bit over the rim and not have to use tire levers which could pinch youir new tube. After it is over, of course, you need to get the bead back up to the edge of the rim but pumping/checking is your friend here. Love this content and have it bookmarked. Great to have a female presenter doing repair videos! Well done all!!
It also helps to rub the tyre to make it warmer. It can be surprising effective
Manon is just gorgeous :-) . For the last bit of the tyre if you don‘t have the right tool, you can also stand on the tyre and put it in with your feet. That helped me changing a 57mm TLE tyre from Schwalbe.
Ok I trick
I’ve learned the hard way, do not use your bare fingers to sweep the tire. Slicing your finger tip open on a sliver of steel or glass has taught me to use a cloth.
Eeeek! Nasty 👀
Just be careful when doing so, you wont feel the object using a cloth. Using your fingers is the way to go, you can visually inspect it first if you're that much of a beta male.
I'd start with just having a quick look. Easy to do when the bikes in the stand like in the vid.
Beta male
Guitar picks work well too
Manon made it look so easy. 😅 I always have difficulty when closing the bead of the tire.
Hahaha she's a true pro 👌
Yep, that's gonna be the hard part for me always.
Depends on the tyre though.
She has no idea how to change a tire on the side of the road. Will always remember she doesn't know how to flip a bike upside down.
@@JFomo you NEVER flip a bike upside-down!!!!!! Scratch your saddle...your handle bar..only a compleet noob flips an expensive bike !!
@@gcn no she is not ! She did it the wrong way 😉 take tire of start at valve!!!!put tire on end at valve !!!!!!
I've been riding on luck for years... never had a flat somehow, and never learned how to deal with one. Today my luck ran out. I made it home, and I had just watched this video a couple days ago, so I knew what to do! Thanks Manon... this video could not have been more perfectly timed. 😅
One important tip not on the video. For a stubborn tyre which is hard to get the last bit of tyre over the rim, it helps to break the bead on the other side of the tyre as well, push beads on both sides of the tube towards the centre of the rim where the rim bed is the deepest (i.e. wheel diameter is the smallest) then push the tyres towards the last bit that has not been pushed over to get more ‘slack’ in the tyre. Usually I find I don’t need to use the tyre lever to get the last bit of tyre on if I do this.
I always try to put enough air back in the tube so I can find the hole then I know where to look on the tire for the cause of the hole. This is why lining your tire label with the valve is a good habit.
Great video! I took everything apart before, so I'll try this method next time.
When removing the inner tube is always a good idea to keep track of which direction it was mounted, then pump it up until you can detect the puncture. At this point you know in which position on the tire to accurately look for possible sharp objects still embedded in the rubber. This saves you *a lot* of tires going flat again ten minutes after you've finished the fix.
Old puncture kits included a piece of yellow crayon to mark the tube and tyre
You made it look so easy. I must have heavy duty tires because I have such a hard time with the start and the finish of getting the tire bead on/ off. I have learned those little hook things on the tire iron hook on to the spoke if I need to use all three! Keeps it from popping off while I’m working away from it!
I wouldn't use a tyre iron - unless that's a generic term. Plenty of good plastic versions available
I NEVER use levers to mount tires. Good way to pinch a new tube!
I always find pushing the valve up into the tire when remounting helps the bead to clear the tube.
A visual inspection before and while checking the tire with fingers!
It can be a sharp piece and it will certainly cut your finger as it did the tube.
A rag or handkerchief will catch on a protruding spike and save your skin. Certainly don't want a piece of staple that's rusty and been under a rat, dog, or fox relieving itself before sticking into your finger!
I’d recommend pushing the tire away from the rim on both sides, to make it easier to get the levers under the bead.
Many useful comments below. Sorry if repeating any.
If tyre soft but not completely flat and using rim brakes, you might have to let all the air out to get the tyre out of the brakes (assuming you have set the blocks just 1 or 2 mm clear of a nice and true rim). Spare tube is useful so you can take the punctured tube out, find hold, apply glue (if not using ready to stick patches) and leave it to go tacky while... check tyre for thorns, staples, pins, etc that are still there to puncture the new tube; chalk dust the inside of the tyre; put in the new (or patched from a previous puncture) tube, pump up etc;... by which time the glue will have become tacky (depending on temperature and humidity) so you can apply patch; apply chalk dust to stop exposed glue sticking to whatever you don't want it to stick to; roll up the repaired tube;
Ride off to the wedding 50 miles from home that you were going to (suit in panniers) or your fiancée you were planning to meet up with after the wedding; bonk (in the cycling sense) and phone fiancée you can't make it; in days before mobile phones, ask about nearest tube station and get on tube train that allows bikes; go home. When fiancée comments about it next time you meet up, say she is to you like a Mars bar or can of Seven-Up to a bonked out cyclist... and she understands the metaphor!!!
When I repair my tube, I always test it after full pressure for 24 hours to make sure the repair is OK, it did happen to me once the patch was sealing perfectly the hole
I’ve oscillated between starting at valve or opposite for reseating. I think with tight set ups, opposite is a touch easier to get the tyre in deepest part of the channel.
This looked smoother than my changes though :-)
You are right and she was wrong 2 times😅, reason is simple the valve area pushes the tire farther from the rim so needs to go up last
Do one on how to fix TPU tires
we have just the thing! ua-cam.com/video/FUN4qp11FPk/v-deo.html
Rim tape works for me. No special repair kit needed.
@@DrDiogoLang that sounds like good one! doesn’t really stretch, not easily to penetrate and plenty sticky. Gonna try that!
When GCN do these videos, we invariably get loads of comments with great suggestions / corrections / exceptions from the community. These would be great to have in the main video, which makes me wonder if the new GCN membership scheme could have draft videos a week early, so that any amends, etc. could be picked up and added to the video for wider release? Would definitely make for better reference and how-to videos!
PS Not saying this video is bad! Just that a "public draft" stage could make them even better.
That's a very interesting idea 👀We're always looking to make the best content we can, so many videos have been shaped by our community. That's what it's all about 🙌
A woman with gentle hands, good video
Is the puctured tube now the back up for the next ride or does it become the primary one once you get home and swap it out?
When inserting the new tube I put the valve in first and then partially inflate. You can lose air through the valve if you partially inflate it outside of the tyre and take the pump head off. The pressure inside the tube might not be enough to push the core closed.
I also have the pump on the side I haven't levered the bead off meaning it doesn't get in the way when re fitting the tyre.
The middle of the rim is less deep, so position the bead of the tire there to gain more purchase to lift the last bit of tire over the rim edge.
*pfffffssssssst* Got my first puncture out riding this week, but no worries I thought -- this is what I've trained for 😂 Always carry a spare tube, a patch kit, levers and a mini pump. Let's do this! Removed the punctured tube, got ready to put in the new one, aaaaand pump doesn't work (degraded seal I think?). Didn't see that one coming...
Ah yes. The sage of the never used pump... until it's needed. One of the little tasks to put in the smart phone calendar to check once a month before a ride
5 seconds into the video and boom! Potty mouth! Loved the video.
Good advice thanks
You should do a one for the tubeless cyclist's when they need to repair one on the roadside
No one
Use reusable adjustable zip tie to put stubborn tyres on. Put the feeding bit against the rim and tighten it down, this squashed the tyre making it easier to put the last bit of tyre on.
never thought of that!
It's a useful tip for putting on puncture proof tyres such as Schwalbe marathon plus or Continental contact plus. You should do a contest with staff trying to put marathon plus tyres.
It often is easier to work the tire away from the edge of the rim opposite of the valve with your hands so it can sit deeper in the middle of the rim. This gives a few millimeters of tolerance to make it easier to get it over the edge of the rim on the opposite side, close to the valve. With some tires this is the only way to get them on or off the rim without excessive force.
Sliding the lever around between the tire and the rim can damage the rubber around the bead of the tire (due to friction). It might not cause any problems but there's no reason to risk it. You can just keep levering the bead off the rim in different spots until it comes off.
Do you have the tubeless tyre equivalent? Flat tubeless what todo if its not resealing
Carry a tube and insert in the tire. As stated elsewhere in this tread, it is having this kind of experience several times that convinced me to give up on tubeless. Tubes are much easier and much less mess. Tubeless replaces a minor problem with a major annoyance.
The drive wheels actually come with some very good glassfibre tirelevers. They don't leave small chunks of plastic and don't damage the rim. I sold the wheels, kept the levers 😅
Manon 😍😍😍
or if you are on tubeless push the tyre plug into the tyre with the appropriate tool, pump it up and spin the wheel to let the sealant work. It works for 90% of my punctures, no need to even remove the wheel from the bike. I believe plugs or strips are meant to be temporary but they are normally OK to fit and forget for most punctures.
Fine for modern low pressure wide tyres. But some of us have old bikes with 23C tyres and little room for anything bigger. 120 psi doesn't work well with sealant. Pension doesn't stretch to the (much better) back to the 1960s size of tyre and rim width
@@cuebj It has worked fine for about 100psi on 28mm tyres as the majority of my punctures are small and slow rather than blow outs. I do agree that it would probably not work at higher pressures on a larger puncture so its not foolproof but may reduce the number of punctures that you have to stop for.
@@cuebj I used to use tubeless sealant in my tubes before I went tubeless. It was OK on 28mm tyres at about 100psi (I am a Clydesdale) You have to make sure to buy tubes with a removable valve core. I think it would be ok on small punctures in 23mm tyres but would probably just blow out of a bigger puncture leaving you with the suspicious white goo all over your arse and back! But tyre plugs are obviously useless if your using tubes.
Nice job👍
Do a segment on valve core issues, sometimes they come out at the worst time and can’t be tightened
Where putting the tyre backon start opposite the value sowhen at the finish you can put the cap back on and if needed push up with the value to roll the tyre on...
Always enjoy your videos... however, I misread this, thinking it was "How to Fix a Flat Tire WHILE On a Bike"... now THAT would be interesting!!
Before using tyre lever at the top. You squeeze the tyre to the center of the rim at the bottom. That is the whole point why rims are built with lower centers.
I try to keep it as tire levers are only for taking tires off not putting them on.
One more thing: if out on road using a mini pump, far better to have one with a hose that screws onto Presta valve AND has a pressure release button to release pressure in the pump so you can unscrew it once you've got the pressure you want.
Is this the GCN content now Warner have pulled out 😂
hi, thanks for the comment. Everyone has different knowledge levels and we are here for all
@@gcn suppose it covered a big chunk of the sponsors, elite, Pinarello etc so hats off to you.
Last weekend I punctured and when I started to get my spare tube out, I noticed that I had the tire insert in and no way to go for the gunky thing. I think carrying a folded up plastic bag for this situation might be a good idea.
Could anyone tell me what would definitely be recommended for roadbike tires these days?
Tubeless? inner tuber?
Is the traditional inner tube like the one in the video still the favorite of cyclists in general? any real advantage other than cost-benefit?
Check your tube for the location of holes before completely removing it from the rim!
After pulling the tube out, inflate it a little to inspect for the puncture. This will make it far easier to identify where some foreign material may be lodged in your tire before sweeping your bare fingers through the inside of the tire.
Also, learn to identify what different types of punctures look like and where they are located. For example, many people might miss that their rim tape is damaged or out of place.
Put chalk (climbing chalk is good as you can buy it in small quantities) in a small screw top cannister.
You need to do a video of fixing flats along the roadside and not from the comfort of mega base.
Nice & Thanks :)
Great video. You might want to wear gloves if a thorn punctured your tyre?
Che carina Manon mamma mia 🥰
Well done. You didn’t give Alex to do this video 😂😂😂
That's not 'fixing a puncture'- that's 'changing an inner tube'!!😃
My tires are way to stubborn for me to just insert the leavers. I have to pinch the deflated tire all the way around first to get it slacker and create space. Same again before I put the tire back on. Could just be me though: haven’t got the strength in my arms I used to have.
When you're being watched by 8 "mates" I guarantee that 4 will say "don't start at the valve" and the other 4 will say "don't start opposite the valve". I'm also going to say that you should carefully remove the tube if you intend to repair so you don't stretch it out.
Getting my wheels off requires two spanners 🔧. Solid axles.
Can you put sealant in an inner tube? And would that seal?
hi, great question! You can use certain sealants in innertubes too!
My tube is so patched up. Some areas have double patch on it. I finally bough a new tube.
I am so jealous, mine are so tight it's a nightmare to change a tube.
Practice at home.
Get someone to stick a pin in your tyre without you knowing.
When inflating, put 10 psi in and check the tyre's concentricity. Making sure the bead is in the clincher. Then pump it up.
Pro tip : you might not always be able to see or feel whatever has caused the puncture. try not to let the tyre move around, then inflate the tube and find where the hole is. Then line up the tube on the wheel and this will help you find the culprit in the right area of the tyre
I've always taken the tire off completely. It never occurred to me to just leave it and remove the tube with it on still. I'm sure if I do this it won't look as smooth and easy as when Manon did it.
I haven't had a flat in 3 years. Am I doing something wrong?
What about tubeless?
I think it is worthwhile, before removing the wheel from the bike, to rotate the wheel, checking to see what may have caused the puncture. Most of the time, the cause can be found then.
"Did you pinch it?"
No, I bought the blimmin' thing !
GCN fan base told me if I don’t go tubeless I’ll have to deal with flats but I haven’t had a flat in 8 years. LOL
I think that super important thing that is missing in this video is to check the tire for any objects that caused the puncture and can potentially make you stop in 5 minutes to go with the same work again. Of course if you're lucky enough to have another spare inner tube ;)
You need to rewatch this video, she covers the need to sweep the inside of the tire to make sure whatever caused the flat is still not in the tire. She used her bare fingers. I had left a comment that using a cloth maybe a better option having sliced my finger tips on a piece of metal or glass.
I was yesterday (Wen, June 26). it was a staple.
You are mistaking, To take it off you have to start at the valve !!! To put it on you have to end at the valve !!! So it is the other way around !!!😊
That's the way I do it, seems like I can get more clearance that way because there's more room to get the tyre opposite of the stem down deeper into the center of the rim. Is that the reason you do it that way or is there another advantage
@@saddleweary2777 the valve takes more space then the rest off the tire can not get to the middle at that spot so this is always a pressure point, to take it of if you start at valve you take away most pressure at first , to put the tire on you end at the valve !
@@FTA38yearfreeride yea, that's how I do it, I didn't know if there was any other advantages, hey man, thanks for the reply.
@@saddleweary2777 my pleasure 😀
@@saddleweary2777 with the smallest wheel and the biggest tire Manon used you can change the tire while standing on your head drinking a beer lol it don't matter 😀
What about the tubular tire.
I find it easier to stick a patch on the tube. For this I don't even have to remove the wheel and a set of patches is much less luggage than a tube. If all goes well I need 15 minutes for the whole process.
Pro Tip from someone who lives in a city that essentially paved their road with broken glass:
1) Use your old inner tube to help locate the cause of your flat. Make note of how it was removed from the wheel, then give it a few pumps and you should hear the dreaded "pssssst" sound. Line it up with the tire and you're 99% there. This can be especially useful when you have a small leak caused by an even smaller piece of glass or when your flat was caused by some other issue (rim tape, dinged rim, bad stem, etc.)
2) Throw a bit of baby powder inside of your tire and then rotate it so it is has coated the inside of it (doesn't have to be perfect) before you try and put your tube in. This helps to prevent the new tube from getting stuck to the tire during instillation (rubber loves to stick to rubber), which can lead to you accidentally pinching during the install.
3) New full bead tires can be a pain in the butt to get on the first time (shout out to my schwalbe marathon users). You can use zip ties as a third or fourth hand to help with the install, then you can just snip them off when you're done. I personally have not used this trick yet, but found out about it after my last battle with a new full bead tire and have kept it in my back pocket.
4) Personally, I like taking the whole tire off the wheel when I go to reinstall. I feel like it gives me a bit more room to work with and can make locating the cause of the flat a bit easier. After all, getting the first side back on a wheel is super easy, it's that last 20% of the second side where things get a bit tougher. Also on the note of fully removing the tire, similar to this video, putting a bit of air into the tube will hold it in place inside of the wheel no prob during install.
5) Some tires are directional, so make sure you reinstall it the right way. Might not be that big of a deal, but it's such a silly thing to get wrong...and one I have done countless times.
6) Patching tubes is easy and more economical than replacing it out right...but also patches don't always take. Do yourself a favor and don't try and learn on the side of the road, just bring a spare. I say this as someone who has NEVER been able to properly patch a tube. I've tried so many times only to be screwing the quick release back on and hear "pssssst". Annoying when at home, infuriating when trying to get home from work. (this is probably just a me issue lol)
What about c02 pump so much quicker
Would have loved to see how to remove the tire without leavers as those can easily damage the rim edge. Especially metal ones
It will often depend on how tough the tyre is. If you can removing the tyre without the levers is best! Once the tyre is fully deflated you should be able to roll it off the rim 🙌
You should not put the patched tube into your pocket as next-time spare, because the last thing you want is a badly-patched and leaky tube next time you have a puncture. Instead, once home, you should patch the tube, and put it back in the tyre. You can test it keeps the air before the next ride, and you have the (almost) new tube as spare again.
Manon is so beautiful !!
2nd Comment, thanks for the vid, lots of info
If I have a g/f knows how to change the tyres that will be great... 🙂
As someone who saw plenty of stuff in trips... i can tell you.... if you dont have anything on you... and you dont have 1000€ wheels, filling your tire with grass does the job until you arrive to civilization. And as someone said... video might improve from having a yt edited lil section... *BE CAREFULL about inspecting the tire, put a cloth around your fingers cus you WILL get cut if its glass, a nail or something really sharp.
😅😊
On the next episode "How to put your bike on the floor before you ride" 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I disagree on where to start on the tire once the tube is installed. Start opposite of the valve and start working the tire on evenly until you get back to the valve this way you can push the valve up out of the way so the tire lever or the bead of the tire can't pinch the tube. Spent a lot of years changing off road motorcycle tires which are a lot harder and you would pinch them every time if you started at the valve.
Or...go tubeless and hope the hole is small and on the tyre tread, in which case it will probably self repair. If it's a big hole in side wall, and you have zero patience, a taxi home might be the order of the day!
Tubeless is pretty great 👌
Tubeless is rubbish for the road!
There are two types of cyclists that have gone tubeless. Those who regret it and liars
I've ridden tubeless on terrible roads for the last 2800 miles with no punctures, no lies, no regrets. But I would love to be prepared with a video showing me what to do in case I do get a puncture, especially as my rims are hookless, so I can't pop a spare tube in...
@@prispin I think it's the same as with any tubed puncture, but messy!
😀
Easier said, than done.
Very true, the more you do it though the better it gets 🙌
I see the video and I begin to feel ashamed because every single swap of inner tube is like a war with the rim and/or the tyre and/or my sweat (usually everyone of them) and after one hour of this fight I say: 😫😡🤬🚳 I was a fool for beginning biking _ this!
But of course I like to ride in the forests and on the roads so I keep biking 🤷♂
If you are on the side of the road wouldn't it be better to just patch it to get home 🤔 I wouldn't particularly want to remove a wheel on the roadside.
Patch what, the outside of the tyre?
It’s never that easy 😅
Cool, when is AI expected to take over personal training? Since automation is so straightforward, fitness coaches not using it might be left behind. AI----how do i change a flat---. Or even worse..change it for me
Well that doesn't tell us anything about repairing tubular tyres! I'd very much like to see what stitch is used and how to do it.
I keep asking for tub repair video and I'm beginning to suspect none of the presenters know how to repair them, so I'm recording one myself for my channel
Any expert tub tips would be greatly appreciated...
Dont think those can be repaired...
Replaced sure but repaired no as you cant get to the insides
Also unless crap a tubular tyre has a gum layer to seal punctures
Hi, no we don't use tubs these days I'm afraid and I don't think it's such a popular topic. Sorry!
@@gcn Track cyclists do
@@commanderoof4578 Tufo can't but most brands can. I've done it a few times now, but I'm always on the lookout for better ways to do it
If you cycle and can't fix a flat, then you shouldn't be cycling. 🤦♂️🤷♂️