On the last part of tempering I put table salt 🧂 in a tunafish can and heat the can while watching the color change , when the color tone you want is achieved remove heat . And cover spring with salt, to normal temperatures
Interesting and informative video. I have to springs to clean and re-generate them. I'll have to remmber to put it in my diary to do it again in 50 years time !
Thank you, I did not know this principle suitable for springs, for sanding 2:45 it is possible to use powder of "pumice" and use a cork stopper to rub.I use this method for punches...
@@riccardochiorboli2971 I don't know why this question came to my email- but I looked up kick starter springs. They're commonly made of aluminum and steel. I would NOT heat up aluminum to red hot as it could melt. Musical instrument springs contain no aluminum and can stand the heat.
@@patsmith5236 Hi Pat thanks for getting back to me. I am no expert in metals but it is made up of carbon steel ( looks like it). This is a flat coil type spring off a 1950's motor cycle kick starter return. Very much like the old Harley Davidson bikes. The spring is not damaged but a little slack. Regards Ric. South Africa
To make a spring you heat up to cherry red and let it cool slowly, then you can work it cut or file to shape, polish out marks etc. Then heat cherry red again and dunk in cold water. Polish and used Whale oil which you put the spring in and burn where you should get the correct spring temp. Trouble with spring temp colours is you have to catch the blue just before it turns blue as its turns very quickly from yellow purple and blue in a near instant, this is where whale oil came into effect doing mass springs.
Thanks for the Vid.. have a 3 leaf springs I need to reshape and temper. USA that is referred to classically as Royal Blue. Some times now since it is metallic it would be called 'Titanium blue" even though it is not Ti.
So making it springy means heating it twice. 1: Cherry red then drop into cold water. 2. Reheat gently until it goes blue then let it cool down slowly. This is the part I'm trying to work out. I got some 'spring steel' off eBay but it turns out I have to heat it first to make it springy.
Prove they are good by using them! I did exactly this TEN times, each time starting from scratch making a spring but each time it either stayed compressed I’d broke.., it’s not as easy as this people, don’t be fooled
I always just clean them up and anneal them to get rid of any work hardening and they work fine. What's the purpose of tempering? It's very risky with spring steel, as you say it breaks like glass.
Annealing is for recrystallization, to soften (commonly for our scenario, a work-hardened piece of) material for cold working, machining etc. But for spring steel (and many other materials and objects), this state is commonly way too plastic and ductile for actual use / finished product - it plastically (permanently, no full rebound) deforms very easily. The very opposite of what result you want from a spring. Here, when you have a spring steel piece that you want to restore material properties to but its shape is (now) fine/finalized, tempering is used after hardening to precisely relieve excess tension (and thus its brittleness) and restore _some - a controlled amount_ - of elasticity. So the end result is a material that is tough but not brittle, with appropriate elasticity (springyness), and does not plastically deform (easily).
very good video. what I would like to do if possible is to make a spring coil in a tin coat hanger wire to be strong enough for my model airplanes front nose wheel , it now bends with a straight wire that came with it.
Thankyou! I’m trying to renovate a pair of antique French secateurs where the spring is broken. I was scratching my head.... Now I think I’ll take the temper out of a hacksaw blade, shape it and then harden and temper it as you have shown (I think I’ll do the tempering in the oven...). If a hacksaw blade doesn’t work, then a strip of steel cut from an old saw (unable to be restored) which has been set aside for making small blades will be the next thing I try. Fingers crossed! P.S. King’s Blue...is that what the English would call Royal Blue, or is named for the beautiful colour of a Kingfisher?
I was also thinking it might be easier to have consistency of the tempering process when using an oven. However, I just found out that it would require 300...500 degrees Celcius to temper spring steel (so quite high). So please just take note of this.
I get the impression he air cooled them. But I think if you were going to quench, you have to do it in warm or hot oil, that's already had some hot metal in it to heat it up.
I spent like 40 min trying different combinations of words untill i finally found u !!
Thanks for the help- I have some flat springs out of a Gustav Becker clock (140 y/o) Springs needs to be restored
On the last part of tempering I put table salt 🧂 in a tunafish can and heat the can while watching the color change , when the color tone you want is achieved remove heat . And cover spring with salt, to normal temperatures
Interesting and informative video. I have to springs to clean and re-generate them. I'll have to remmber to put it in my diary to do it again in 50 years time !
I think he said 100 years. Then 200.
We call it royal blue here in the States.. Great video!
Thank you, I did not know this principle suitable for springs,
for sanding 2:45 it is possible to use powder of "pumice" and use a cork stopper to rub.I use this method for punches...
A true craftsman! Thank you.
Thanks very informative .. would this method also apply to a vintage motor cycle kick starter spring, in this case the spring is flat and round.
@@riccardochiorboli2971 I don't know why this question came to my email- but I looked up kick starter springs. They're commonly made of aluminum and steel. I would NOT heat up aluminum to red hot as it could melt. Musical instrument springs contain no aluminum and can stand the heat.
@@patsmith5236 Hi Pat thanks for getting back to me. I am no expert in metals but it is made up of carbon steel ( looks like it). This is a flat coil type spring off a 1950's motor cycle kick starter return. Very much like the old Harley Davidson bikes. The spring is not damaged but a little slack. Regards Ric. South Africa
Very informative and well-made video.
To make a spring you heat up to cherry red and let it cool slowly, then you can work it cut or file to shape, polish out marks etc. Then heat cherry red again and dunk in cold water. Polish and used Whale oil which you put the spring in and burn where you should get the correct spring temp. Trouble with spring temp colours is you have to catch the blue just before it turns blue as its turns very quickly from yellow purple and blue in a near instant, this is where whale oil came into effect doing mass springs.
Thank You very much now back out to my garage shop, get dirty....hopefully with success...tm
That is called fire blue in the US. Nice video
Many thanks. Invaluable advice
Great work, Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the Vid.. have a 3 leaf springs I need to reshape and temper.
USA that is referred to classically as Royal Blue. Some times now since it is metallic it would be called 'Titanium blue" even though it is not Ti.
Very cool. Thanks!
+David Ludman Well.... thank you :-)
Nice watch.
When temper the spring and get the blue color,you cooling the spring at the Air or wit wáter again?
What is that paddle thing with holes in it for annealing, and where can you get one?
So making it springy means heating it twice. 1: Cherry red then drop into cold water. 2. Reheat gently until it goes blue then let it cool down slowly. This is the part I'm trying to work out. I got some 'spring steel' off eBay but it turns out I have to heat it first to make it springy.
So surprised no quench after temper to.blue
Thanks Sir
Thank you Sir 🙏🙏♥️♥️🤩
Can anyone link where I can buy these flat copper and steel springs of similar sizes and shapes shown in the video?
Prove they are good by using them! I did exactly this TEN times, each time starting from scratch making a spring but each time it either stayed compressed I’d broke.., it’s not as easy as this people, don’t be fooled
What alloy steel were you using? I have no problem doing this with 1095.
A common mistake is to fully stress newly tempered spring in one go. You need to slowly work it back and forth 30-40 times to final compression.
I always just clean them up and anneal them to get rid of any work hardening and they work fine. What's the purpose of tempering? It's very risky with spring steel, as you say it breaks like glass.
Annealing is for recrystallization, to soften (commonly for our scenario, a work-hardened piece of) material for cold working, machining etc. But for spring steel (and many other materials and objects), this state is commonly way too plastic and ductile for actual use / finished product - it plastically (permanently, no full rebound) deforms very easily. The very opposite of what result you want from a spring.
Here, when you have a spring steel piece that you want to restore material properties to but its shape is (now) fine/finalized, tempering is used after hardening to precisely relieve excess tension (and thus its brittleness) and restore _some - a controlled amount_ - of elasticity. So the end result is a material that is tough but not brittle, with appropriate elasticity (springyness), and does not plastically deform (easily).
Can you post a process for reviving torsion springs? Pleeese!
What kind of torch is that?? It looks awesome!
very good video. what I would like to do if possible is to make a spring coil in a tin coat hanger wire to be strong enough for my model airplanes front nose wheel , it now bends with a straight wire that came with it.
In U.S. they call it Robin's Egg Blue.
nice ^^
hello. great video.
the clutch of my chainsaw is too stiff.
homelit 69070 clutch
would your tecknique work?
Which part of the flame do You use for heating the spring steel? I tried it but the steel did not harden again when quenching it.
Thankyou! I’m trying to renovate a pair of antique French secateurs where the spring is broken. I was scratching my head.... Now I think I’ll take the temper out of a hacksaw blade, shape it and then harden and temper it as you have shown (I think I’ll do the tempering in the oven...). If a hacksaw blade doesn’t work, then a strip of steel cut from an old saw (unable to be restored) which has been set aside for making small blades will be the next thing I try.
Fingers crossed!
P.S. King’s Blue...is that what the English would call Royal Blue, or is named for the beautiful colour of a Kingfisher?
I was also thinking it might be easier to have consistency of the tempering process when using an oven. However, I just found out that it would require 300...500 degrees Celcius to temper spring steel (so quite high). So please just take note of this.
Can an oven be used to temper?
What is the thing you are using for tempering, is it a brass plate?
do you heat the temper until the spring turns blue and then air cool, or do you re quench?
I get the impression he air cooled them. But I think if you were going to quench, you have to do it in warm or hot oil, that's already had some hot metal in it to heat it up.
After tempering the spring should cool down slowly, never quench it.
? Podrías explicar lo que hiciste, escribiendolo? Es mas fácil para mi entender ingles leyendo. Graciass