It’s great that you’re documenting this, very useful for those of us considering something similar, and I love that you show your mistakes and don’t pretend to be an expert. Cheers
Thanks John, I’m so pleased to hear this. My impression so far is that it’s okay (and quite enjoyable) to do this DIY. And at around 1/3 the price of paying someone to do it, hopefully this opens it up to far more people to insulate their houses like this. And I’m certainly learning a lot by doing it as well :) Do let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to see in future videos. All the best, Simon
The angle you hold the notched trowel at sets the height of the ridges. You are holding it at 30 degrees at times. so with 10mm notch your bed will be 10mm x sin 30 degrees = 5mm so when troweled flat in those areas are 2.5mm.
Thanks, this is really useful. I’ve so far only done a little bit more rendering as I’ve been concentrating on covering the back wall with boards and sorting out verge trims and beading etc. I am actually about to start some serious rendering though so this advice comes at a really good time. Thanks again!!!
Looks good. Putting the 'render' on a plastering hawk to transfer from bucket to trowel might help. If that stuff is anything like plaster it's all about the timing. i.e. when it starts to go off then it's easier to get smooth but timing is critical. Great to see someone having a go at rendering and making a decent job of it, well done. Looking forward to the next vids.
Thanks Ched, that’s very useful to know about the timing. I started smoothing it after about an hour and took about an hour to do it. It seemed to get more difficult to get it smooth at the end of that second hour. So maybe I’d left it too long and the sweet spot is around an hour after mixing. And thanks for the advice about the hawk. I do have an old second hand one of them and will try using it as I progress :)
Nice Job! I have dabbled with some small plastering jobs in the past couple of years and I totally agree that the Pros make it look easy 😀 Is that the base coat? and there is a final top coat to be applied?
Thanks a lot Derek :) Yes, this is the basecoat. I still have top-coat primer to put on and then the final thin film of silicone render. I’m hoping those jobs will be a bit easier though and also I’m not sure how long the silicone lasts after I’ve opened it. So I’ll get on with installing more insulation up to basecoat and then do the final coat of primer and silicone when I have a bigger surface to cover. I’ll keep making films as I go :)
Thanks a lot. I agree, I’ve spent a while thinking about this and have a few ways I’m planning to overcome it. Firstly, I’m sure I’ll get a lot quicker and probably soon be able to do a section like that in under an hour. Second, I expect I’ll mix one batch and work it for an hour and then mix a second batch and work the next area for about an hour. And third, it seems it’s okay to take a break, let it dry (with a feathered edge) and then come back to it. So I think I’ll be okay and I’ll try to make a video of my solution as I test it out :)
Hi, I did try using a float on some later base coat rendering but didn’t find it worked as well (at least with this base coat render) as doing a lot of trowelling and then speed skimming to finish off so didn’t post any videos of the floating for this base coat. I certainly used a float a lot on the final coat of silicone render though. There’s a video of that here in case you’re interested: 23. How to DIY silicone render - Surprisingly easy and gives a beautiful flat finish ua-cam.com/video/msP1oX6hQ6I/v-deo.html
Yes, but a great thing is this insulation helps reduce noise as well. So with good double glazing and this insulation it’s actually very quiet inside :)
It’s great that you’re documenting this, very useful for those of us considering something similar, and I love that you show your mistakes and don’t pretend to be an expert. Cheers
Thanks John,
I’m so pleased to hear this.
My impression so far is that it’s okay (and quite enjoyable) to do this DIY.
And at around 1/3 the price of paying someone to do it, hopefully this opens it up to far more people to insulate their houses like this.
And I’m certainly learning a lot by doing it as well :)
Do let me know if there’s anything in particular you’d like to see in future videos.
All the best,
Simon
Brilliant tutorial thanks
Thanks a lot Luke
Really enjoying this series. I love your attitude. Looking forward to seeing it all done and your thoughts on how it's improved the house
Thanks a lot - this is really encouraging to read :)
The angle you hold the notched trowel at sets the height of the ridges.
You are holding it at 30 degrees at times. so with 10mm notch your bed will be 10mm x sin 30 degrees = 5mm so when troweled flat in those areas are 2.5mm.
To get a 5mm bed 12mm notch at 55-60 degrees
Thanks, this is really useful. I’ve so far only done a little bit more rendering as I’ve been concentrating on covering the back wall with boards and sorting out verge trims and beading etc.
I am actually about to start some serious rendering though so this advice comes at a really good time. Thanks again!!!
Looks good. Putting the 'render' on a plastering hawk to transfer from bucket to trowel might help. If that stuff is anything like plaster it's all about the timing. i.e. when it starts to go off then it's easier to get smooth but timing is critical.
Great to see someone having a go at rendering and making a decent job of it, well done. Looking forward to the next vids.
Thanks Ched, that’s very useful to know about the timing. I started smoothing it after about an hour and took about an hour to do it. It seemed to get more difficult to get it smooth at the end of that second hour. So maybe I’d left it too long and the sweet spot is around an hour after mixing.
And thanks for the advice about the hawk. I do have an old second hand one of them and will try using it as I progress :)
Nice Job! I have dabbled with some small plastering jobs in the past couple of years and I totally agree that the Pros make it look easy 😀 Is that the base coat? and there is a final top coat to be applied?
Thanks a lot Derek :)
Yes, this is the basecoat. I still have top-coat primer to put on and then the final thin film of silicone render.
I’m hoping those jobs will be a bit easier though and also I’m not sure how long the silicone lasts after I’ve opened it.
So I’ll get on with installing more insulation up to basecoat and then do the final coat of primer and silicone when I have a bigger surface to cover.
I’ll keep making films as I go :)
That's a really nice job and thanks for uploading. If you have 2 hours before it goes off how will you go about doing larger areas?
Thanks a lot. I agree, I’ve spent a while thinking about this and have a few ways I’m planning to overcome it.
Firstly, I’m sure I’ll get a lot quicker and probably soon be able to do a section like that in under an hour.
Second, I expect I’ll mix one batch and work it for an hour and then mix a second batch and work the next area for about an hour.
And third, it seems it’s okay to take a break, let it dry (with a feathered edge) and then come back to it.
So I think I’ll be okay and I’ll try to make a video of my solution as I test it out :)
@@aktsolar good luck, I'll be looking out for updates
What about using a float?
Hi, I did try using a float on some later base coat rendering but didn’t find it worked as well (at least with this base coat render) as doing a lot of trowelling and then speed skimming to finish off so didn’t post any videos of the floating for this base coat.
I certainly used a float a lot on the final coat of silicone render though. There’s a video of that here in case you’re interested:
23. How to DIY silicone render - Surprisingly easy and gives a beautiful flat finish
ua-cam.com/video/msP1oX6hQ6I/v-deo.html
Man, your road is really noisy!
Yes, but a great thing is this insulation helps reduce noise as well. So with good double glazing and this insulation it’s actually very quiet inside :)