We're all for that, especially in a commercial sauna or if the sauna will be used 8+ hours a day. In our experience, measures like this aren't measurable until 1.5 hours or so.
We'd avoid it for a home sauna, as it will take hours to reach temperature. Stone masonry can be excellent for a public wood-fired sauna that needs to heat for extended periods of time. It would provide a very "soft", pleasant, and stable heat.
I'm interested in the part where you talk about rigid foam board. I've looked at the data sheets between the FF-PIR and the AP Foil-Face and they have almost exact max service temperatures (120C) and similar chemical constructions/hazards making me think it would be a good NA replacement for the FF-PIR they use in Finland. Could you go into more detail on your experience with foil covered PIR boards?
We think it's a fad in Finland as well. All rigid foam is just plastic, and shrinks. When relying on taped seams they will eventually fail due to shrinkage. The ceiling above the heater is likely to exceed max service temperatures, and our understanding is these materials aren't meant to regularly come close to the max service temperature for extended periods of time. I worry most about public and apartment saunas that use FF-PIR that are on 24/7. That said, we know good builders that use it.
I have a preexisting sauna, but want to cover the existing interior walls instead of tearing it all out. Any concerns with covering the existing wall with the foil, then 1x4 as mentioned in video, then cedar T&G for new wall?
these sauna kits are cooked bro. exterior siding->zip->rockwool->aluminum heat barrier->interior paneling is bussin. no temp swings and goated with a wood burner.,
Great video! Very informative.
Is there anything specific to know about the floor? Best sauna design video on the internet btw
how about staggered framing the walls and using rockwool?
We're all for that, especially in a commercial sauna or if the sauna will be used 8+ hours a day. In our experience, measures like this aren't measurable until 1.5 hours or so.
what about a straight up stone masonry sauna?
We'd avoid it for a home sauna, as it will take hours to reach temperature. Stone masonry can be excellent for a public wood-fired sauna that needs to heat for extended periods of time. It would provide a very "soft", pleasant, and stable heat.
@@saunamarketplace ok cool! Texted you guys! have some more questions :)
I'm interested in the part where you talk about rigid foam board. I've looked at the data sheets between the FF-PIR and the AP Foil-Face and they have almost exact max service temperatures (120C) and similar chemical constructions/hazards making me think it would be a good NA replacement for the FF-PIR they use in Finland. Could you go into more detail on your experience with foil covered PIR boards?
We think it's a fad in Finland as well. All rigid foam is just plastic, and shrinks. When relying on taped seams they will eventually fail due to shrinkage. The ceiling above the heater is likely to exceed max service temperatures, and our understanding is these materials aren't meant to regularly come close to the max service temperature for extended periods of time. I worry most about public and apartment saunas that use FF-PIR that are on 24/7.
That said, we know good builders that use it.
I have a preexisting sauna, but want to cover the existing interior walls instead of tearing it all out. Any concerns with covering the existing wall with the foil, then 1x4 as mentioned in video, then cedar T&G for new wall?
@@gooosedog Yes, if/when moisture get behind the new foil layer it’s trapped. Much better to go back to the original barrier and start there
@@saunamarketplace .. or simply put the 1x4 and then cedar T&G on top of the existing wall, without the foil?
Book a free sauna consultation at SaunaMarketplace.com
these sauna kits are cooked bro. exterior siding->zip->rockwool->aluminum heat barrier->interior paneling is bussin. no temp swings and goated with a wood burner.,
by zip you mean...?
Zip board
Is that English?
@@colinfranger5886it’s an exterior sheathing with the vapor barrier already attached. Same as using plywood or osb with DuPont tyvek.