I appreciate this video Streeter! I have a 1996 Polaris XCR 600 SP Triple and could not figure out how to get the drive shaft with 4 drivers off after watching other videos of 90s era sleds. About to start on the chain case now and I hope it is as straightforward as what you did!
Nice tutorial Streeter! Tough working in those conditions, that weather takes it out of me too. Good time to check brake pads, clean up the rotor, and replace jackshaft bearings. A lot of work, but it'll pay off in the long run.
The last couple of weeks have been brutal. It’s been a challenge to stay motivated. Completely agree. I think I’ve spent more time removing grease and rust off this sled than anything else I’ve worked on.
Morning Streeter, video gave me the confidence to DIY, saving big $$$. Thank you. Question if you recall…. The bearing is surrounded by two flangettes, one on the axel (right side of bearing) with 3 bolts and the other flangette to the left, that butts against the chassis. Does the left flangette get installed on the left side of the chassis, with the speedo cover or the right side, in the tunnel? Hard to tell in your video. Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you so much! Wasn't sure where to relieve the tension in that area. Did you have coolant in it or no? I expected this operation to spew coolant all over the place. Hopefully, you took the opportunity to detail it legit. XD
Thanks! Honestly I don;t remember, LOL I was is in the process of pulling the engine. So I can't say for sure if the system was dry or not. But you should be able to remove everything and leave the coolant in.
@@StreetersGarage Think I'll just disconnect 1 clip, the one at the thermostat. Would be much easier to contain spills if any. I'm just a rookie after all.... and coolants spills, suck.
Dude... what is your technique for removing that drive shaft out of there?? Tried to move as far to the mag side as possible but the shaft is just too long!! I screwed around for I don't know how long and resorted to removing the bearing with a pulley. It was much easier but my concern now, is putting the bearing back on... You're the only guy on UA-cam who tackled this job on a 4 sprocketed drive. Now, let's see it go back on! XD
It should be just a matter of sliding the inner bearing retainer down the driveshaft so the bearing will slide through the tunnel and the driveshaft will come out. Sounds like the drivers were hitting on the lugs of the track.
@@StreetersGarage This is very potentially true, it felt like I had some more room but ran out of time. Thanks for the tip! Was parting that one and wanted it out my garage asap... but it's a job I must get comfortable with soon. I also found a video of another fella who made child's play of it. So it is doable without removing the bearing. Will have to discover what works for me.
@Streeters Garage Hey Streeter! So I took my chaincase out, what a bunch of swear words that was... anyways, there is no way there was any coolant in yours, I tried to remove one of mine... original hoses on a '94... hoses are so old, they have no flex and didn't want to cut them just to remove them. Tried to force it with a slot screw driver and started to spew out coolant. Didn't want to remove all the coolant, so I opted for the less hassle solution... namely just bully my way in there. Usually it's the bottom bearing that's the doozie but this one, the top bearing was seized on the jackshaft!! I had never encountered that one. After some interesting acrobatic fighting with the whole jackshaft/chaincase combo, I finally beat it lose with a huge 4x4, a hand sledge and some some mega mechanical MacGuyvering, I never thought I'd ever do. Whatever bit of SeaFoam I had put on there did pretty good. I could grab the end sticking out of the chaincase and move whole jackshaft back and forth.... with the chaincase still attached. Hopefully, the brake disk is still good. A bit dented but it's barely noticeable. This is why you should frequently check your chain case oil level and use a molebdynum based lubricant; if not, the top bearing doesn't get adequately lubricated. Molebdynum keeps the oil inside the bearing for longer periods of time than regular chaincase oil. I once blew a chain before and it just sucks... had forgotten to put any oil in it. Long time ago. Also turns out the previous idiot who owned it, hadn't even tightened the tightener collar on the PTO side, the nut on the jackshaft MAG side was barely holding but had an enormous cotter pin. Couldn't even get the secondary out without removing the clutch's cap. It sucks dealing with anothers blunders, makes me wonder how they even put their shoes on the right foot but how do you eat an elephant, well, one fkn bite at a time! Probably one of the most incredible original restorations I ever done. That said, I could start an old indy chaincases and driven clutch store. XD Chain cases, get your chain cases here!! Chains, bearing, spacers and springs!! To be used during winter and not in spring!! Step right up and take a look at our brand new 1994 Polaris chaincase chain tensioners!!
Wow - What a mess. For the hoses, one trick is to take a set of channel locks to grab the hose and rotate it. That will typically break the bond and help the hose to come off the fitting.
@@StreetersGarage Tried that, they barely budge; even tried to crimp them out. May have to bite the bullet and replace the hoses... they're not rotting or anything, just stiffer than a frozen turd.
I noticed the coolant hoses were empty. When you go to fill that up is there anything special you have to do besides filling up the coolant tank. Will the water pump, work it through and get the air bubbles out? Thank you
On the 96 Ultra it's super easy to do since there's no thermostat in the system. However this is the process I do for every sled and I've never had an issue. 1. Jack up the front of the sled and put the trailing arms on jack stands 2. Open coolant bottle and fill it up. 3. Put cap on 4. Let it run for 5 minutes 5. Shut off engine 6. Top it off to full hot 7. Run again for 5 minutes 8. Shut off engine 9. Remove Jack Stands 10. Let the engine cool for 2 hours, 11. Top off if neccesary.
You need to remove the bearing retainer. The driveshaft will then slide to the left and out of the tunnel. You’ll need to pick up the track so it doesn’t get hung up on the drivers.
The FST driveshaft is pretty easy to remove. compared to other sleds. Remove the bearing cup on the pto side, Loosen the track and the driveshaft will slide right out of the chain case. There's no need to touch the chain case at all. The shaft engages into it, theirs no hardware holding it in.
@@StreetersGarage well thx, i should have got to u earlier, i am a newbie to snowmobiling, i took everything apart...lol, i got it out alright, but i have parts everywhere...lol, can i extend the track from the stock model 136 to 144, and if so, where is the conversion kit i could get it from, i seen you extended yours from 121 to 136, thx.
It was a challenge to say the least. I spent more time removing the secondary from the jackshaft then the chaincase itself. It was rusted on the shaft. This sled is a perfect example of why you shouldn’t store anything outside and uncovered.
@@StreetersGarage On my Vector I had to slice the bearing off with a cutting torch while it was hanging in the sled ! That was tricky. Funny,I watched a video of a guy doing the same job and the bearing slid right off . LOL, so fake. It's way too to be working in this heat.
I appreciate this video Streeter! I have a 1996 Polaris XCR 600 SP Triple and could not figure out how to get the drive shaft with 4 drivers off after watching other videos of 90s era sleds. About to start on the chain case now and I hope it is as straightforward as what you did!
No problem. Glad it helped you out.
Nice tutorial Streeter! Tough working in those conditions, that weather takes it out of me too. Good time to check brake pads, clean up the rotor, and replace jackshaft bearings. A lot of work, but it'll pay off in the long run.
The last couple of weeks have been brutal. It’s been a challenge to stay motivated.
Completely agree. I think I’ve spent more time removing grease and rust off this sled than anything else I’ve worked on.
Thank you for making this video! Very helpful
You got it. Glad it helped
Morning Streeter, video gave me the confidence to DIY, saving big $$$. Thank you. Question if you recall…. The bearing is surrounded by two flangettes, one on the axel (right side of bearing) with 3 bolts and the other flangette to the left, that butts against the chassis. Does the left flangette get installed on the left side of the chassis, with the speedo cover or the right side, in the tunnel? Hard to tell in your video. Thanks!
Yes, one on either side of the tunnel.
Thank you. You do a nice job on your videos.
@@tdeVaux Thanks for watching!
Awesome! Thank you so much!
Wasn't sure where to relieve the tension in that area.
Did you have coolant in it or no? I expected this operation to spew coolant all over the place.
Hopefully, you took the opportunity to detail it legit. XD
Thanks!
Honestly I don;t remember, LOL I was is in the process of pulling the engine. So I can't say for sure if the system was dry or not. But you should be able to remove everything and leave the coolant in.
@@StreetersGarage Think I'll just disconnect 1 clip, the one at the thermostat. Would be much easier to contain spills if any. I'm just a rookie after all.... and coolants spills, suck.
Dude... what is your technique for removing that drive shaft out of there??
Tried to move as far to the mag side as possible but the shaft is just too long!!
I screwed around for I don't know how long and resorted to removing the bearing with a pulley.
It was much easier but my concern now, is putting the bearing back on...
You're the only guy on UA-cam who tackled this job on a 4 sprocketed drive.
Now, let's see it go back on! XD
It should be just a matter of sliding the inner bearing retainer down the driveshaft so the bearing will slide through the tunnel and the driveshaft will come out.
Sounds like the drivers were hitting on the lugs of the track.
@@StreetersGarage This is very potentially true, it felt like I had some more room but ran out of time. Thanks for the tip! Was parting that one and wanted it out my garage asap... but it's a job I must get comfortable with soon.
I also found a video of another fella who made child's play of it. So it is doable without removing the bearing.
Will have to discover what works for me.
Awesome thank you 😊
You’re welcome 😊
No need to remove chain case just loosen & pull out a little
True, but if you’re this far into it. You might as well pull it in order to check the oil seals on the back of the chain case and clean up everything.
@Streeters Garage Hey Streeter!
So I took my chaincase out, what a bunch of swear words that was... anyways, there is no way there was any coolant in yours, I tried to remove one of mine... original hoses on a '94... hoses are so old, they have no flex and didn't want to cut them just to remove them. Tried to force it with a slot screw driver and started to spew out coolant. Didn't want to remove all the coolant, so I opted for the less hassle solution... namely just bully my way in there.
Usually it's the bottom bearing that's the doozie but this one, the top bearing was seized on the jackshaft!! I had never encountered that one. After some interesting acrobatic fighting with the whole jackshaft/chaincase combo, I finally beat it lose with a huge 4x4, a hand sledge and some some mega mechanical MacGuyvering, I never thought I'd ever do. Whatever bit of SeaFoam I had put on there did pretty good. I could grab the end sticking out of the chaincase and move whole jackshaft back and forth.... with the chaincase still attached. Hopefully, the brake disk is still good. A bit dented but it's barely noticeable.
This is why you should frequently check your chain case oil level and use a molebdynum based lubricant; if not, the top bearing doesn't get adequately lubricated. Molebdynum keeps the oil inside the bearing for longer periods of time than regular chaincase oil. I once blew a chain before and it just sucks... had forgotten to put any oil in it. Long time ago.
Also turns out the previous idiot who owned it, hadn't even tightened the tightener collar on the PTO side, the nut on the jackshaft MAG side was barely holding but had an enormous cotter pin. Couldn't even get the secondary out without removing the clutch's cap. It sucks dealing with anothers blunders, makes me wonder how they even put their shoes on the right foot but how do you eat an elephant, well, one fkn bite at a time! Probably one of the most incredible original restorations I ever done.
That said, I could start an old indy chaincases and driven clutch store. XD
Chain cases, get your chain cases here!! Chains, bearing, spacers and springs!! To be used during winter and not in spring!! Step right up and take a look at our brand new 1994 Polaris chaincase chain tensioners!!
Wow - What a mess.
For the hoses, one trick is to take a set of channel locks to grab the hose and rotate it. That will typically break the bond and help the hose to come off the fitting.
@@StreetersGarage Tried that, they barely budge; even tried to crimp them out. May have to bite the bullet and replace the hoses... they're not rotting or anything, just stiffer than a frozen turd.
I noticed the coolant hoses were empty. When you go to fill that up is there anything special you have to do besides filling up the coolant tank. Will the water pump, work it through and get the air bubbles out? Thank you
On the 96 Ultra it's super easy to do since there's no thermostat in the system. However this is the process I do for every sled and I've never had an issue.
1. Jack up the front of the sled and put the trailing arms on jack stands
2. Open coolant bottle and fill it up.
3. Put cap on
4. Let it run for 5 minutes
5. Shut off engine
6. Top it off to full hot
7. Run again for 5 minutes
8. Shut off engine
9. Remove Jack Stands
10. Let the engine cool for 2 hours,
11. Top off if neccesary.
@@StreetersGarage Excellent, thank you for the info, I am working on a 97 ultra as my first project sled and your videos are super helpful!
No problem. Glad I could help.
theres a drain on the bottom of chaincase. and how did u get it out with those brass mounting brackets on speedo side?
You need to remove the bearing retainer. The driveshaft will then slide to the left and out of the tunnel.
You’ll need to pick up the track so it doesn’t get hung up on the drivers.
@@StreetersGarage I got it off thanks tho I found 3 Allen keys behind the bearing that came off n slid the bearing off👌
i have a 2006 fst touring, the bearing went on the cahin case side, how do i replace it,
The FST driveshaft is pretty easy to remove. compared to other sleds. Remove the bearing cup on the pto side, Loosen the track and the driveshaft will slide right out of the chain case. There's no need to touch the chain case at all. The shaft engages into it, theirs no hardware holding it in.
@@StreetersGarage well thx, i should have got to u earlier, i am a newbie to snowmobiling, i took everything apart...lol, i got it out alright, but i have parts everywhere...lol, can i extend the track from the stock model 136 to 144, and if so, where is the conversion kit i could get it from, i seen you extended yours from 121 to 136, thx.
I have a 96 ultra an I pulled the shaft out no proplem with out pulling case
and it had 3 drivers on the driveshaft?
Same as my old ski doo mx. That bearing was a bitch to remove.
It was a challenge to say the least. I spent more time removing the secondary from the jackshaft then the chaincase itself. It was rusted on the shaft.
This sled is a perfect example of why you shouldn’t store anything outside and uncovered.
@@StreetersGarage On my Vector I had to slice the bearing off with a cutting torch while it was hanging in the sled ! That was tricky. Funny,I watched a video of a guy doing the same job and the bearing slid right off . LOL, so fake. It's way too to be working in this heat.