034 vs OEM B7 Motor Mounts | Product Review AND Install DIY How To
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- I compare the 034 Motorsport Street Density Solid motor mount with my OEM mounts out of the 2.0 A4 B7. Afterwards, I walk through the process of removing and replacing the motor mounts in a short DIY (starts at 06:44).
This is video 2 of the motor mount series. I first discussed my leaking mount problem and how I planned to measure the NVH difference in OEM vs my aftermarket choice and I will take the final vibration and noise measurements in part 3.
Comparison:
These mounts (all of them) are big! They weigh over a pound each, although the solid mounts are even heavier than stock. I also determined that there’s only ~3g of hydraulic fluid in an oem mount. The major difference is the shape of construction on top of the 034 mounts. They are an overall taller package than OEM which later causes a unique problem in that the engine does sit at a higher point than it did previously. This of course also affects the center of gravity for the front of the car - a point I did not see online during research.
Tools and resources:
Bentley Service Manual (A4 B6-B7) - geni.us/bentley-audia4-manual
DIY/Chapters
00:00 Mount project intro
00:43 Comparing OEM to 034
06:44 Start of DIY instruction
08:11 Raise the car
08:31 Detach the snub mount arm (T5/6mm hex) from the side of the oil pan. It’s ok to just hang in the mount
09:00 Remove the front half of the air intake
09:10 Remove the 13mm top nuts from both motor mounts
10:40 Remove the 4 13mm nuts attaching the sway bar brackets to the bottom of the sub frame brackets
11:02 Remove the 13mm bottom nuts from both motor mounts
11:18 Mark location of alignment dowels
11:56 Stabilize engine with a jack under the oil pan
12:32 Remove the 3 18mm bolts from the sub frame mount on the passenger side and the 2 front bolts from the driver side; leave the rear driver side bolt partially in.
Jack up the engine as much as is required to slip out the motor mounts.
Install the new motor mounts, remembering to put the washers on top of the mounts before hand
14:13 Reinstall the sub frame bracket 18mm bolts (81 & 55 ft/lbs) ft/lbs
Reinstall the bottom and top motor mount 13mm nuts (25Nm, 18.5 ft/lbs)
Remove jack support from engine
15:46 Reinstall the sway bar bracket 13mm nuts
Reinstall snub mount arm bolts, adjust snub mount bracket if necessary
Reinstall air intake duct - Авто та транспорт
Always educational and informative. Thankyou
Thank you thank you thank you! Couldn't have done this without you!
Great video and clear explanation.
Great info thanks for sharing
The cover is heat shield. Heat from turbo
Awesome video as always! Will save it until it's time to do this myself. :)
Would love some thoughts on how the 034 mounts feel compared to old OEM's
Appreciate it. Although I'm trying to get through a number of projects this winter (when it doesn't get driven), I'm also conscious that it'll be difficult for me to individually measure and critique each mod if I do a bunch of things at the same time. I am excited to feel how the car handles itself with these mounts and the 034 sway bar in the back. At the very least, I'm expecting something noticeable - compared to just adding the 034 snub mount and bracket which felt like nothing.
@@FigureItAudi Ahh I see
Will removing the brackets affect the alignment?
hi, how can i adjust my handbrake on audi a4 b7 2.0 tdi? can u share the manual?
Is that an access plate at bottom on the sump (min 12:13)? And what's that hose or cable coming out of it?
I recommend loosening the transmission mounts and lifting the engine only. Removing brackets may change the alignment.
Also technically the subframe bolts are one time use.
You're right, Therion. You're getting a shout out in the video I have planned to address this and introduce a new tool.
@@FigureItAudi First of all, I like your channel very much. I own a 1.8t Passat, which is an Audi in disguise :-)
It is possible to make an engine lifting tool out of wood. or you can rent from autopart stores.
These cars are very particular about their alignments.
%99 of the alignments shops won't touch the subframe in Audi and VWs to do alignment. I personally instructed the shop mechanic to loosen the subframe and shift it using the alignment holes for camber and caster.
Also, not every motor mount is filled with fluid. Most non-dealer mounts are solid rubber, which is cheaper but not necessarily as good as the fluid filled VW original mounts.
Looking forward to more of your videos.
Do the mounts have any difference?( Left and right) Because I had to install drivers side engine mount to the passengers side.
Hi Henri - It depends which motor mounts you're installing on what year and transmission type of vehicle. If you want to share more info about your situation here, that would help answer the question.
In general terms though, aftermarket mounts like the ones in this video are the same for both left and right. There was a change in the 2007 production cars where before VIN numbers up to 8E-7-149290, electrically assisted hydraulic mounts could only fit the left side of Tiptronic automatic transmission cars. After the split, the mount can go on either side. Other than that - although there technically are different part numbers for left and right mounts of both automatic and manual vehicles - non-electric assist mounts should be interchangeable. You can refer to your part numbers against this: bit.ly/312zcDj. The mounts do rest at different angles under the engine, but to my knowledge they are not constructed differently. All this said, when you change a motor mount, you should do both to maintain ride quality consistency.
Do you have any idea if this install is the same on a 3.0 quattro A4 b7??? My mounts are shot and I need to know if this is something I can do also!! Really struggling to find any information here!!
I don't have first hand experience with changing mounts on a B7 that has a V6 but my intuition and brief searches online both lead to: there will be extremely limited or no access from the top of the mounts and as always, having helpful tools are going to make the job less stressful. Getting the bottom nuts off the mounts shouldn't be an issue; it's the tight space above the mount to remove those nuts that will be worth finding a flex head, ratcheting wrench for. For the job shown in this video - with a bit of research and preparation - I'd rate the job at a 2/10 difficulty. It's something you can stumble your way through if you have the time...but it's good to know what incidental hardware needs to be replaced (like subframe TTY bolts) and which don't.
Have you heard of any reviews on the ECStuning motor mounts (black/red), I know the 034 mounts that you installed are solid but I was wondering about the ECS ones because I need to replace my oem! Also mines are electronic as well. Idk if I should go with 034 or ecs? Would like your advice on the mounts since you have done them in past.
Take a browse through the Audizine forum and see what more people have said based on their first hand riding experience. Really, just let the durometer hardness metrics and your realistic average use of your car decide which ones to go with. ECS, 034, Apikol, etc. will always list what durometer stiffness the mounts are to level the cross-brand comparison.
@@FigureItAudi okay I’ll do that and thank very much
Did you ever do the after install NVH test? Need to do this repair on my car and would love to see your results.
Hey @Ryan Rushton, yes I did and the results genuinely surprised me. The video is in editing right now but I'll share the punchline now: just go for it. There's no measurable downside in my opinion. I will tag you when the video goes up.
@Ryan Rushton The video just went up :)
N-909-568-03 is for the longer bolt and it is an M12x1.5x120. The other two (shorter) bolts, N-906-630-02, are an M10x70. As at 14:50 ish in the video must be incorrect torque specifications for the bolts that mount the sub-frame bracket in place.
I will provide the correct torque specs for these bolts when I get the Bentley service manual.
Vic, I'm glad you posted this. Using your information I went back to the Bentley manual and was surprised but relieved to find an error that had obviously caused the confusion in the first place. In the spirit of this channel and because of your contribution, here's the first video of Community Contributions and the explanation of what exactly we missed: ua-cam.com/video/mr2fPBeIkxc/v-deo.html
FYI. The torque for the long,M12x1.5x120 bolt is 81 ft-lbs, and the torque for the 2 M10x70 is 55 ft-lbs. Thank you!
From page 34-35 in the manual under Manual Transmission Removal and Installation (section)
Tightening Torques
________________________________________
Subframe to underbody (use new bolts)
Bolts 1 (longer bolt) 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)
Bolts 2 & 3 (two shorter bolts) 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs)
Where to buy a service book repair manual as your reference?
Sometimes you can find them on your local Kijiji/Craigslist but you can purchase them on Amazon: geni.us/bentley-audia4-manual
Does this tab on the bottom have a function? Is it just a model of the place of seating
It's just a locating dowel so you can orient the mount correctly. Tab = in hole.
@@FigureItAudi Ok thank you👍