Parallel versus series is about voltage versus current. You first have to understand that the voltage send to a speaker does not create sound. It is the current that creates sound. Currents produce the magnetic fields that move the membrane. Voltage just causes the speaker to "react". In fact, the inductance in the speaker is also called reactance. And how a speaker reacts to voltage differs based on reactance and resistance of the speaker and a few other things. But once you have a current in the speaker, it will move the membrane. When you hook up two speakers in parallel, you give them the same voltage. If the speakers, are perfectly identical then the same current will flow and if the membranes are identical, you will hear the same sound. But that is a lot of "ifs". If you place the speakers in series, then both speakers will see the same current and if the speakers have same impedance and similar build they will produce the same sound. I don't think that changing the tab on the output transformer will make any difference, unless you start saturating the transformer due to high current, which is very unlikely. So in my opinion, you get the best repeatability by placing the speakers in series and using the appropriate tab (16 ohms that is)
@@RocknJazzer By putting the speakers in series, you reduce current and therefore saturation. Besides, most output transformers have taps for 4,8,16 Ohms etc. So you see the same load and therefore same current through the transformer
My ears could not hardly tell any difference so I would probably keep it wired like it came from the factory. I did find the video interesting and enjoyable though, have a good day and thanks Joe!
In series wiring, if one speaker of two blows to open circuit, the amp will be without load if it has no other speaker or other load connected. That is immediately very harmful to the output tubes and OT if it happens (and it quite often happens) when the amp is cranked up, but you'll quite probably notice it immediately because both speakers will go silent. In the case of parallel wiring, if one of two speakers blows to open circuit, amp won't go silent but the load impedance will be doubled which is of course not a good situation but it won't be immediate catastrophe if you notice it soon, which is not always obvious because the speaker cabinet won't go silent.
Despite the seemingly inconclusive results, it's good to raise awareness of the factors involved in speaker wiring. Greater and more meaningful differences can be heard when changing the actual drivers. Brian Wampler did a great Instagram post on this back in July. He played the same thing through several speakers and edited them all together for an instant comparison. Highly enlightening.
It's simple: Factor 1. In series, the signal travels from the first speaker to end up to the second, so the first one acts also as a resistance. In parallel it reaches both speakers simultaneously. (series=less highs, as in pickups) Factor 2. Speakers sound different on different impedances, due to their construction solely, the resonant frequencies move also a liiittle bit (1-5 Hz). (a matter of the exact manufacturer and speaker of how it works) Factor 3. Amps behave differently at different Ω outputs. (traditionally: 4Ω american, bass heavy, brute, untamed sound, 16 Ω british, refined, chimey, jangly, edgy yet more hifi and stable sound, 8 Ω the compromise). All of the above to taken into consideration.
The equation is (Ωa *Ωb) /( Ωa+Ωb) for parallel linking, so an 8 & 16 Ω mismatch would give 5.333 Ω that can be safely driven by an amp at 4- 6 Ω. Yes the latter stands true. Most speakers are slightly lower in their exact Ohm rating anyway, than in their namely one*, and that's totally ok, because impedance varies due to signal anyway. Avoid extreme mismatches. *for example, all guitar speakers 6-8 Ohms are listed as 8 ones. Most of your speakers are slightly lower in impedance than you think.
The lower the impedance the higher the output, but its at a cost, as you lower the impedance the top and bottom of the overall frequency response is rolled off, which is probably why opinion is divided, as this effect leaves the mids more prominent.
8 ohm is where its at IMHO alnico celestion gold up front more mids or alternatively my fane axa12 (discontinued unfortunately) for a big, open, heres everything, sound. They are the only two speakers I need to stay 😊
Parallel/4Ohms was a bit flatter than Series/16 Ohms to my ears. Overall, I liked 16 Ohms better: a tad more compressed with high mids sizzling through the air...
There are some veeeeery slightly difference but they were so subtle that you have to keep your hears attached to the monitors to hear something. Still, interesting topic, i wonder how it would sound with one of those Magnatone stereo amps. Speaking of amps, Joe which amp would you like to get next? maybe an Hiwatt? which amps are left in your shopping list?
Absolutely - there's a tiny difference, but it's not as drastic as most people make out on forums! :P Ooh...to be honest, I'm _gassing_ SO bad for the Dr Z Z-Master (the Joe Walsh 3x10 Bandmaster thingy) but it's so expensive in the UK :-( I'd love to try a Hiwatt-type amp as well at some point.
@@JoePerkinsMusic I've just heard the Z-Master. It's AMAZING. It will go on my dream list. I have to buy a Magnatone Twilighter first, maybe in the near future i'll get the Z-Master
You can't wire a stereo amp in series or parallel, there are two power amps, one going to each speaker, no choices. I used to own a 60s magnatone stereo amp
Made very little sonic difference, to my ears! I think the slight extra 'thump' of parallel won it out for me, but almost all of my speakers here are 8 ohms and my Marshall/Orange heads only have 8/16 taps, so series wiring at 16 ohms is my best option just for ease of being able to use the most amps with the cab and not have to rewire it constantly. If everybody gave 4/8/16 taps like you guys do, the world would be a much easier place ;-) haha
@@JoePerkinsMusic As an aside, a little of the Z Wreck harmonic hair comes from the Series wiring, as it was designed around a 16 ohm 2x12 when it was being protoyped.
@@DrZAmplification Ah interesting...that might be one reason why I tend to run my Wreck combo into the 2x12 at 16ohms when recording as I think it sounds better! :P I currently have a Celestion Gold & Scumback S75-PVC in that cabinet wired 16ohm series for a lot of British alnico jangle - that's my favourite pairing for the Wreck/DB4 and my Orange/JTM45 heads!
@@JoePerkinsMusic so I’m curious with two 8 oms speakers would give me 4 oms ? So what if I don’t have the 4 oms on my amp head ? I do but I’m just wondering.. thanks
You can't do that, as the power will be split equally between the two speakers - so the 25W speaker will be receiving 50W of power, which will likely destroy it quite quickly. When pairing two speakers to use with a 100W amp, they'll both need to be 50W speakers or above. 👍
I think UA-cam compression probably does away with most of the (already subtle) difference. There might actually be a 3 dbl loss between them, but you would measure that in the room, and UA-cam will level that change out for the listener. Great comparison and playing!
I might make a video about UA-cam compression at some point - looking into how much is _actually_ lost in terms of dynamics and tonality. Could be interesting :-)
Pleasant video and to the point. I couldn't tell a big difference. I'd want to see a spectrum analyzer and power output spl levels readings. I'm old so, I don't trust my hearing. LOL Using an amp at 3/4 or less volume is a thing for me. The volume setting on the amp was the same for both , I'm going to assume? I build my own amps from salvaged amps. I have a Matchless Clubman 35 style design that uses a 3k4ohm primary output transformer. That's calculated with a 8ohm load. It ran a PPP set of el84's in a previous life. It's new life is with a pair of el34's. 16ohms is basically a requirement of the design. Those two el34's are happier with a 6-7k load at 400volts. Running two 8ohm drivers in series or a single 16ohm driver is all I can do with that output transformer. I'd be sure that running drivers in series that one driver can handle the amplifier's total wattage.
@@JoePerkinsMusic Oh ok thanks I did some research I think I got the wiring and ohms thing down now . I should know later this week. I did send the 8 ohms speakers back and got 16 ohms so it would have more room. I still have 3 other 8 ohms speakers to change around if I want to. Anyway thanks for getting back to me.
Ive got an '68 Silverface Champ. 8" speaker. Replaced the original tired, and initially not very good speaker, with a nice Jensen reissue. However, do you think that with the parallel, 4 ohm load, the cabinet would be capable of being driven by the 5 watt Champ???
Am I right in thinking the Champ has just 8ohm output(s)? If so - I really wouldn’t risk it, as putting an 8ohm output into a 4ohm cab would make the amp work harder than it’s designed to do, and would likely blow output transformer/tubes/etc. If it has a 4ohm output, that would be fine - the wattage of the amp doesn’t really matter, it just won’t drive the speakers very hard. But impedance mismatch is the thing that’ll cause damage!
Ah ok...a 4ohm output driving a 4ohm load should be absolutely fine then! The speakers together should be a similar volume to your single 8"...so, not too loud on their own!
Hi - Hi - Quick question to anyone that has a Fender Mustang V amp head. ON THE HEAD - Do I hook up both RIGHT and LEFT stereo speaker outputs (each 8ohm 75W) to both inputs on a Fender GE-412 4x12 parallel cab - in order to utilize all 4 speakers in stereo? The cab speaker inputs are not labeled LEFT or RIGHT. HELP
You can safely mix different impedances though right. It just gives you a weird total ohms rating and probably drives the speakers dissimilarly. So long as you don’t run too high into it it’s safe
That’s exactly it - you _technically_ can, but you’ll get a weird impedance that won’t necessarily be good for your amp. So having 8 & 16 ohm speakers wired in parallel would give you….a 6 ohm load (I think!?) And in series would give you 24 ohm. From what I’ve heard, you can run a lower impedance load into a higher impedance speaker/cabinet (8ohm tap into a 16ohm cab, for example) - but you won’t get full power, and a more narrow frequency range. But never, ever run a higher impedance load into a lower impedance cabinet, as you’ll overload your amp and cause big damage!
I have a custom built 15W head that has a single tap that says 6-8 ohm, the transformers are from an old tube amp and the original OT is a 6 ohm, I'm currently runing 2x12 in parallel / 2 speakers each one is 8 ohm/ resulting in 4 ohm impendance, the amp works fine with this setup, no issues like heat or noise or whatever. It was the safer option for me - isntead of wiring the two speakers is series for 16 ohm into this 6-8 ohm head
One HUGE factor that is missed in these videos (more so when mixing speakers) is the non-linearity of the impedance throughout the frequency range. Put two speakers of different types in parallel and the power will go to whichever speaker has the lower impedance at a given frequency and less power will go to the speaker with higher impedance at the same frequency. In series the power has to go through both speakers evenly.
not an issue as 99% of people hooking up a pair of speakers will use same ohm ones, so nothing missed unless someone for some odd reason or being cheap uses different ohm speakers.
@@RocknJazzer I think you missed the point. Ohms are non-linear. Different speakers, even though they are rated for the same Ohms, do not have the same Ohms throughout the frequency response. The Ohms rating is usually just the average of lowest Ohms. Most speakers actually dip down a little below their ratings. If you look at impedance plot charts between different drivers rated at the same Ohms you will see what I mean.
I know all that, but two same speakers, which most people use when pairing, will track similarly, of course slight variation but not like using two different ohm speakers, so I dont get your point as few use mismatched pairs @@stimpsonjcat26
Assuming you’re using a 4 ohm output into the 4 ohm cab, and an 8 ohm output into an 8 ohm cab, the volume should be the same. Only mismatching impedances should make a difference to volume.
great video! It seemed to be a subtle difference to my ears. Maybe it feels different in person? Something in the midrange sounded a little more direct in the series wiring, but I doubt I could hear it in a blind test! I hope you do a follow-up on testing different speaker impedance values!
I think I definitely felt more 'thump in the back of the head' with the parallel wiring - which _maybe_ came across in the audio, but not as much as in person. Super close, though!
From my layman’s perspective (because I have very little understanding of these things …) I’d say you really needed to be running the same impedance for parallel and series to get a true perspective (impractical I know). At 4ohms the amp will be working harder and adding it’s own colouration and feel to the playing, as opposed to 16 ohms which is easier to drive for the amp. All that aside, as a viewer I couldn’t tell much difference and would say it more impactful to the player? Added benefit of parallel being if one speaker blows the amp still see a load! Well done this is really nerdy guitar stuff!
I am building the same type of cab same brand too I think. It also has a option for sterio. I originally bought 2 8 ohm V 30s in 8 ohms each sending them back because of their limitations. I just ordered . A new set of these CELESTION Vintage 30 Guitar Speaker, 16 Ohm & G12M-65 Creamback 16 Ohm Guitar Speaker, 12"       
That equation only works for 2 speakers. It gets a little more complex in a 4 X 12. Dont automatically assume you can wire four 8 ohm speakers in parallel and it will result in a 2 ohm load.
but it does, as 8 div by 4 is 2 but no one uses 2 ohm amps so few will do that. 4x12 cabs are usually wired in series/parallel, which will result in same total ohms as one speakers ohms
I liked 16 better, but i can never trust my ears. ALSO i just looked in the back of my combo and it appears to be wired in series but it has more wires then your diagram. The initial wire pair comes in and runs to one node on each speaker, but 2 wires run between each node from one speaker to the other
NOPE, it must be paralell because the manule says 8ohm load but the speakers are 16ohm speakers so it must be paralell because the load is half the ohms of the speakers.
Parallel versus series is about voltage versus current. You first have to understand that the voltage send to a speaker does not create sound. It is the current that creates sound. Currents produce the magnetic fields that move the membrane. Voltage just causes the speaker to "react". In fact, the inductance in the speaker is also called reactance. And how a speaker reacts to voltage differs based on reactance and resistance of the speaker and a few other things. But once you have a current in the speaker, it will move the membrane. When you hook up two speakers in parallel, you give them the same voltage. If the speakers, are perfectly identical then the same current will flow and if the membranes are identical, you will hear the same sound. But that is a lot of "ifs". If you place the speakers in series, then both speakers will see the same current and if the speakers have same impedance and similar build they will produce the same sound. I don't think that changing the tab on the output transformer will make any difference, unless you start saturating the transformer due to high current, which is very unlikely. So in my opinion, you get the best repeatability by placing the speakers in series and using the appropriate tab (16 ohms that is)
saturating the transformer is very likely when you crank amps up which many do
@@RocknJazzer By putting the speakers in series, you reduce current and therefore saturation. Besides, most output transformers have taps for 4,8,16 Ohms etc. So you see the same load and therefore same current through the transformer
Yes but regardless most amps will saturate when cranked up, pushed hard @@arnereykowski1985
My ears could not hardly tell any difference so I would probably keep it wired like it came from the factory. I did find the video interesting and enjoyable though, have a good day and thanks Joe!
In series wiring, if one speaker of two blows to open circuit, the amp will be without load if it has no other speaker or other load connected. That is immediately very harmful to the output tubes and OT if it happens (and it quite often happens) when the amp is cranked up, but you'll quite probably notice it immediately because both speakers will go silent.
In the case of parallel wiring, if one of two speakers blows to open circuit, amp won't go silent but the load impedance will be doubled which is of course not a good situation but it won't be immediate catastrophe if you notice it soon, which is not always obvious because the speaker cabinet won't go silent.
Excellent comment!
Despite the seemingly inconclusive results, it's good to raise awareness of the factors involved in speaker wiring. Greater and more meaningful differences can be heard when changing the actual drivers. Brian Wampler did a great Instagram post on this back in July. He played the same thing through several speakers and edited them all together for an instant comparison. Highly enlightening.
It's simple:
Factor 1.
In series, the signal travels from the first speaker to end up to the second, so the first one acts also as a resistance.
In parallel it reaches both speakers simultaneously.
(series=less highs, as in pickups)
Factor 2.
Speakers sound different on different impedances, due to their construction solely, the resonant frequencies move also a liiittle bit (1-5 Hz).
(a matter of the exact manufacturer and speaker of how it works)
Factor 3.
Amps behave differently at different Ω outputs.
(traditionally: 4Ω american, bass heavy, brute, untamed sound, 16 Ω british, refined, chimey, jangly, edgy yet more hifi and stable sound, 8 Ω the compromise).
All of the above to taken into consideration.
The equation is (Ωa *Ωb) /( Ωa+Ωb) for parallel linking, so an 8 & 16 Ω mismatch would give 5.333 Ω that can be safely driven by an amp at 4- 6 Ω.
Yes the latter stands true.
Most speakers are slightly lower in their exact Ohm rating anyway, than in their namely one*, and that's totally ok, because impedance varies due to signal anyway.
Avoid extreme mismatches.
*for example, all guitar speakers 6-8 Ohms are listed as 8 ones.
Most of your speakers are slightly lower in impedance than you think.
The lower the impedance the higher the output, but its at a cost, as you lower the impedance the top and bottom of the overall frequency response is rolled off, which is probably why opinion is divided, as this effect leaves the mids more prominent.
8 ohm is where its at IMHO
alnico celestion gold up front more mids or alternatively my fane axa12 (discontinued unfortunately) for a big, open, heres everything, sound.
They are the only two speakers I need to stay 😊
Parallel/4Ohms was a bit flatter than Series/16 Ohms to my ears. Overall, I liked 16 Ohms better: a tad more compressed with high mids sizzling through the air...
Cool👍The difference is minimal, 16 it sounds warmer and richer
Loved this! You always do a great job with your comparisons!
Cheers mate :-)
There are some veeeeery slightly difference but they were so subtle that you have to keep your hears attached to the monitors to hear something.
Still, interesting topic, i wonder how it would sound with one of those Magnatone stereo amps.
Speaking of amps, Joe which amp would you like to get next? maybe an Hiwatt? which amps are left in your shopping list?
Absolutely - there's a tiny difference, but it's not as drastic as most people make out on forums! :P Ooh...to be honest, I'm _gassing_ SO bad for the Dr Z Z-Master (the Joe Walsh 3x10 Bandmaster thingy) but it's so expensive in the UK :-( I'd love to try a Hiwatt-type amp as well at some point.
@@JoePerkinsMusic I've just heard the Z-Master. It's AMAZING. It will go on my dream list. I have to buy a Magnatone Twilighter first, maybe in the near future i'll get the Z-Master
You can't wire a stereo amp in series or parallel, there are two power amps, one going to each speaker, no choices. I used to own a 60s magnatone stereo amp
Another great video Joe, which did you prefer?
Made very little sonic difference, to my ears! I think the slight extra 'thump' of parallel won it out for me, but almost all of my speakers here are 8 ohms and my Marshall/Orange heads only have 8/16 taps, so series wiring at 16 ohms is my best option just for ease of being able to use the most amps with the cab and not have to rewire it constantly. If everybody gave 4/8/16 taps like you guys do, the world would be a much easier place ;-) haha
@@JoePerkinsMusic As an aside, a little of the Z Wreck harmonic hair comes from the Series wiring, as it was designed around a 16 ohm 2x12 when it was being protoyped.
@@DrZAmplification Ah interesting...that might be one reason why I tend to run my Wreck combo into the 2x12 at 16ohms when recording as I think it sounds better! :P I currently have a Celestion Gold & Scumback S75-PVC in that cabinet wired 16ohm series for a lot of British alnico jangle - that's my favourite pairing for the Wreck/DB4 and my Orange/JTM45 heads!
@@JoePerkinsMusic so I’m curious with two 8 oms speakers would give me 4 oms ? So what if I don’t have the 4 oms on my amp head ? I do but I’m just wondering.. thanks
Geez. That sounds good. I want a 330 bad. Great amp too. Love those pushed cleans.
Is there a problem with connecting a 75 Watt speaker with 25 Watt together? for a SuperCrush 100 head...
You can't do that, as the power will be split equally between the two speakers - so the 25W speaker will be receiving 50W of power, which will likely destroy it quite quickly. When pairing two speakers to use with a 100W amp, they'll both need to be 50W speakers or above. 👍
@@JoePerkinsMusic Thank you for answering. That make sense, and I wanted someone to clarify it haha. You are the best man.
Did you use the same one it looked like you had one on the floor miked up.
I think UA-cam compression probably does away with most of the (already subtle) difference. There might actually be a 3 dbl loss between them, but you would measure that in the room, and UA-cam will level that change out for the listener. Great comparison and playing!
I might make a video about UA-cam compression at some point - looking into how much is _actually_ lost in terms of dynamics and tonality. Could be interesting :-)
So if I wire in series two 8 ohms speakers it be 16 ohms.. but what if the cab has only the 8 ohms jack ?
Series sounded slightly mellower, yet I also thought the low-end was more tight in parallel. Overall I would go for parallel
Pleasant video and to the point. I couldn't tell a big difference.
I'd want to see a spectrum analyzer and power output spl levels readings.
I'm old so, I don't trust my hearing. LOL
Using an amp at 3/4 or less volume is a thing for me.
The volume setting on the amp was the same for both , I'm going to assume?
I build my own amps from salvaged amps.
I have a Matchless Clubman 35 style design that uses a 3k4ohm primary output transformer.
That's calculated with a 8ohm load.
It ran a PPP set of el84's in a previous life. It's new life is with a pair of el34's.
16ohms is basically a requirement of the design. Those two el34's are happier with a 6-7k load at 400volts.
Running two 8ohm drivers in series or a single 16ohm driver is all I can do with that output transformer.
I'd be sure that running drivers in series that one driver can handle the amplifier's total wattage.
Amp settings didn't change - nor did mic positions or blend :-)
I hope I get it sounding good any pointers it is my first time building a cab using it with a Marshall origin 20 .
I didn't build this cab - it's a Zilla Studio Pro :-)
@@JoePerkinsMusic Oh ok thanks I did some research I think I got the wiring and ohms thing down now . I should know later this week. I did send the 8 ohms speakers back and got 16 ohms so it would have more room. I still have 3 other 8 ohms speakers to change around if I want to. Anyway thanks for getting back to me.
Hello from Chicago. Hope you are well.
Hi Dennis :-) All good here thanks mate - hope you're all good too!
Great video, Made it very simple to understand. Literally turning my old Line Six Vetta into a speaker cab tomorrow.👍👍👍Thanks for that.
More bottom and low mids , more relaxed sound in parallel. A matter of taste ... Good demo :)
Ive got an '68 Silverface Champ. 8" speaker. Replaced the original tired, and initially not very good speaker, with a nice Jensen reissue. However, do you think that with the parallel, 4 ohm load, the cabinet would be capable of being driven by the 5 watt Champ???
Am I right in thinking the Champ has just 8ohm output(s)? If so - I really wouldn’t risk it, as putting an 8ohm output into a 4ohm cab would make the amp work harder than it’s designed to do, and would likely blow output transformer/tubes/etc. If it has a 4ohm output, that would be fine - the wattage of the amp doesn’t really matter, it just won’t drive the speakers very hard. But impedance mismatch is the thing that’ll cause damage!
No, its 4 ohm output. Has an RCA plug for speaker connection.
Ah ok...a 4ohm output driving a 4ohm load should be absolutely fine then! The speakers together should be a similar volume to your single 8"...so, not too loud on their own!
Is that flat eric on your desk? And i came here because my amp outputs 500 watt at 2 ohms so that means i should run 4 8 ohm speakers in parallel
Hi - Hi - Quick question to anyone that has a Fender Mustang V amp head.
ON THE HEAD - Do I hook up both RIGHT and LEFT stereo speaker outputs (each 8ohm 75W) to both inputs on a Fender GE-412 4x12 parallel cab - in order to utilize all 4 speakers in stereo? The cab speaker inputs are not labeled LEFT or RIGHT. HELP
You can safely mix different impedances though right. It just gives you a weird total ohms rating and probably drives the speakers dissimilarly. So long as you don’t run too high into it it’s safe
That’s exactly it - you _technically_ can, but you’ll get a weird impedance that won’t necessarily be good for your amp. So having 8 & 16 ohm speakers wired in parallel would give you….a 6 ohm load (I think!?) And in series would give you 24 ohm. From what I’ve heard, you can run a lower impedance load into a higher impedance speaker/cabinet (8ohm tap into a 16ohm cab, for example) - but you won’t get full power, and a more narrow frequency range. But never, ever run a higher impedance load into a lower impedance cabinet, as you’ll overload your amp and cause big damage!
In paralell would give you 5.33 Ohm total load and yes the speakers will be driven dissimilarly.
@@jes4932 Thanks for being better at maths & physics than I!
@@JoePerkinsMusic a 5.333 Ω, the equation is (Ωa *Ωb) /( Ωa+Ωb)
@@JoePerkinsMusic And thank you for beeing a very much better guitarist than I am!
To me the Parallel is good for cleaner stuff, the Series is better suited for Overdriven or higher gain stuff. Just my 2cents
I prefer parallel, but yeah very close. If you want that sizzle you could probably just bump the high mids a hair and turn up the output on the amp.
i want to know how wiring affect power handling in a 4x12 cab
it doesnt matter, same either way.
I have a custom built 15W head that has a single tap that says 6-8 ohm, the transformers are from an old tube amp and the original OT is a 6 ohm, I'm currently runing 2x12 in parallel / 2 speakers each one is 8 ohm/ resulting in 4 ohm impendance, the amp works fine with this setup, no issues like heat or noise or whatever. It was the safer option for me - isntead of wiring the two speakers is series for 16 ohm into this 6-8 ohm head
One HUGE factor that is missed in these videos (more so when mixing speakers) is the non-linearity of the impedance throughout the frequency range. Put two speakers of different types in parallel and the power will go to whichever speaker has the lower impedance at a given frequency and less power will go to the speaker with higher impedance at the same frequency. In series the power has to go through both speakers evenly.
not an issue as 99% of people hooking up a pair of speakers will use same ohm ones, so nothing missed unless someone for some odd reason or being cheap uses different ohm speakers.
@@RocknJazzer I think you missed the point. Ohms are non-linear. Different speakers, even though they are rated for the same Ohms, do not have the same Ohms throughout the frequency response. The Ohms rating is usually just the average of lowest Ohms. Most speakers actually dip down a little below their ratings. If you look at impedance plot charts between different drivers rated at the same Ohms you will see what I mean.
I know all that, but two same speakers, which most people use when pairing, will track similarly, of course slight variation but not like using two different ohm speakers, so I dont get your point as few use mismatched pairs @@stimpsonjcat26
To my ears the Parallel 4 ohm sounded a bit less compressed, and a tad more midrange. But, as you said, it's all very suttle. Great video!
I’m confused. Is 4 ohm louder than 8?
Assuming you’re using a 4 ohm output into the 4 ohm cab, and an 8 ohm output into an 8 ohm cab, the volume should be the same. Only mismatching impedances should make a difference to volume.
great video! It seemed to be a subtle difference to my ears. Maybe it feels different in person? Something in the midrange sounded a little more direct in the series wiring, but I doubt I could hear it in a blind test! I hope you do a follow-up on testing different speaker impedance values!
I think I definitely felt more 'thump in the back of the head' with the parallel wiring - which _maybe_ came across in the audio, but not as much as in person. Super close, though!
I bought a Sound Town 2x12" Empty Guitar Speaker Cabinet, Birch Plywood, Black, Wheat Cloth Grill, Compatible with Celestion/Eminence Speakers (GUC212BK-EC)
What is the model of that cab? I want one for my Wizard!
It's a Zilla Studio Pro 2x12 (which the previous owner stuck a Marshall logo on!)
From my layman’s perspective (because I have very little understanding of these things …) I’d say you really needed to be running the same impedance for parallel and series to get a true perspective (impractical I know). At 4ohms the amp will be working harder and adding it’s own colouration and feel to the playing, as opposed to 16 ohms which is easier to drive for the amp. All that aside, as a viewer I couldn’t tell much difference and would say it more impactful to the player? Added benefit of parallel being if one speaker blows the amp still see a load! Well done this is really nerdy guitar stuff!
I think variances in using two totally different speakers would likely create more difference than 4 vs 16 ohms did in this video - but yes, agreed!
I am building the same type of cab same brand too I think. It also has a option for sterio.
I originally bought 2 8 ohm V 30s in 8 ohms each sending them back because of their limitations. I just ordered . A new set of these
CELESTION Vintage 30 Guitar Speaker, 16 Ohm & G12M-65 Creamback 16 Ohm Guitar Speaker, 12"







That equation only works for 2 speakers. It gets a little more complex in a 4 X 12. Dont automatically assume you can wire four 8 ohm speakers in parallel and it will result in a 2 ohm load.
but it does, as 8 div by 4 is 2 but no one uses 2 ohm amps so few will do that. 4x12 cabs are usually wired in series/parallel, which will result in same total ohms as one speakers ohms
Yeah, the ‘59 Bassman and Super reverb are both 4x10 amps with four 8 ohm speakers wired in parallel for 2 Ohms
I like the topic 👍
Confused, but depends on what you played!
I liked 16 better, but i can never trust my ears. ALSO i just looked in the back of my combo and it appears to be wired in series but it has more wires then your diagram. The initial wire pair comes in and runs to one node on each speaker, but 2 wires run between each node from one speaker to the other
NOPE, it must be paralell because the manule says 8ohm load but the speakers are 16ohm speakers so it must be paralell because the load is half the ohms of the speakers.
Yep, that sounds like a parallel setup :-)
You rock kind sir!
Yay! Another lefty!
To me the mids are more at 16 and highs are more at 4.
16 ohm seems to have larger power tones
Parallel❤
16 it is
Whatever ohms jimi used is what I want
G12T7
Seemed like parallel sounded better.
if you can tell between series and parallel, you're lying to yourslf🤣
The WORST intro music EVER
SKIP IT THEN
Very good vid otherwise LOL@@JoePerkinsMusic