Eric, I respect you for showing your error so you can help others prevent theirs. Your honesty will reward you with increase in viewership and customers.
For my cars aftermarket converters are $98-$150 vs $1200-$1500 for OEM. That’s a lot more than double the price… The oldest eBay converter I used fit fine and passed codes, but it did rot out after 7 years in the salt belt. Not terrible considering the Original OEM made it 9 years. In my experience, if you can swap the part yourself, an aftermarket is not a bad option.
Obviously lol. This guy and all the guys like him don't know how to explain to people the difference, and get themselves in trouble . I would literally cut the cats off my priuses and replace them with aftermarkets, sell the oem for the price I paid for the entire car, and then still sell the car for full price. Aftermarket is WAY more logical
Agreed. 99 crv lx I got the P0420 and decided to get an aftermarket cat. $80 vs $1,200 for an oem. If the $80 one fails after a couple years. I’d safely say I got my $80 worth and get another one.
@@royalforeverguy 3 months after installing the new cat w new o2 sensors the code returned. I suspected an exhaust leak somewhere and didn’t find one so I blamed the part. Other than that code being there the vehicle ran just fine. For piece of mine I’d rescan to see if any new codes popped up ever month or so. I absolutely hate the check engine light 😆
That’s exactly why I don’t need or do side jobs anymore. If people want something done, go to the shop. The shop could take the blow but I’m done doing this to help anyone besides my mom and wife.
I agree with you! If friends what a bit of help, I don't mind assisting, but they make all the diags and choices as to what to do and spend. Otherwise, they can go to a garage. I am must a DIYer.
Well to be fair, no offence Eric, but you probably should have checked it all before letting it go. It's not like the cat actually failed - sure the design wasn't close enough where it mattered - though I wonder if this cat fits multiple vehicles. Are shorter sensors available?
I had an interesting discussion with a representative on line from Eastern. Walker is similar in this respect. They are noted for skimping on the active metals in the catalytic converters but in addition the choices they make for the zeolite substrate support is not robust enough to last the warranty period. Magnaflow if they make a catalytic converter do have lines that they warranty for 5 years or longer. These cats either are CARB certified or are OEM certified level. IMHO if you need to replace a catalytic converter, the OEM is the best choice, consider Magnaflow for a second choice and only go to Walker or Eastern if you have to. I am a PhD chemist and have seen patents on the subject and the OEM design to last for 80K miles or 8 years for their units. This is to meet EPA regs. Magnaflow is the only 3rd party that makes efforts to make sure their converters are CARB compliant. If you have a choice, in this case, the CARB compliant catalytic converters are the only ones that will last.
Agree 100%. A brand new Walker catalytic converter failed two days after I installed it on my car. About 1/4 cup of tiny metallic pallets came out of the converter after I removed it. Both oxygen sensors in full working conditions got stuck in the sensor holes. Had to use a pipe wrench to remove them. The bung hole metal ring seemed to have melted and fused to the converter threads. Both are now unusable. I am putting back the OEM cat with 280,000 miles on it. I thought I was getting a newer and better performing converter. Was I wrong! I’ll get the purchase price back on the converter, but nothing else, I believe. Huge lessons learned.
You can thank the govt for all the these converters that DRAMATICALLY affect the performance of our vehicles and they regulated how much the EPA charges for these components. Forcing the customers hand we buy cheap knock offs and they fail! Great vid tho thanks man I appreciate your experience and sharing that with us all. You’re an honest chap I like that
there is o2 sensor realignments tubes that can be insterted to either create a 45 degree or 90 degree bend then he sensor gets locked in the extension pipe.
Great video! But it's the government's fault for not allowing used converters to be reused on another car. As a result OEM converters are super expensive and new aftermarket converters are junk. One pair of bad catalytic converters can sometimes total a car. In South Texas many people take their cars with cat problems across the border to Mexico and install used cats there, where it's legal. I sometimes prefer to install used but original parts from the junkyard than new aftermarket junk from the parts store. It's always more reliable!
The P0420 code has just popped up on my son's 2003 Accord, 185,000 miles. I know the engine burns oil, probably a quart every 1000 miles so it's a combination of this and the fact it appears to be the original Cat that has probably lead to it fouling. Cleared the code for him, but I know engine warning light will come back so will look at replacing the Cat before the next state inspection. Car is running fine, spark plugs look good. Seen replacement Cat's for around $100 on eBay and Amazon so intend to take a chance with one of these, I will look at the user reviews to see which are rated highest. I put rust dissolver and lubricant on the rusty bolts in preparation of the job which I'll probably complete early in the New Year!
#1 converter failure is weak o2 sensor, then #2 A/F sensor and on and on. Converter fail not because they are after market but because they don't solve the reason the converter went bad.
the converter itself was fine - it was a manufacturing defect- even oem parts fail sometimes due to that. the second one worked fine so its not an issue of the converter itself . Why pay 2x or 3x more for the same thing?
I’ll do the job.. but I’ll tell them straight up absolutely no warranty on the labor ..I’ll put whatever you want on your car if it’s not dangerous. But if I didn’t buy the part I’m not guaranteeing anything other than my ability to install it and/or remove it when it’s broke again.
@@topherd1011 exactly!! I don't understand what's so hard about telling people just like that. I swear I won't come back, just put this on for me and charge ur labor, that's it!
I'm investigating an aftermarket Magnaflow catalytic converter. Are the aftermarket ones you've had problems with a "name brand" or basic cheap stuff NAPA will deliver quick?
Had the same crap with a walker CARB compliant cat for a 2003 Taurus. Bank one sensor 2 bung was welded incorrectly causing the O2 monitor sensor to hit an engine /trans bracket. Had to blue flame wrench the bung to get it moved so O2 sensor had proper clearance. A couple of degrees off means a lot. OEM from now on after that debacle.
Thanks for your video and information. Good Job. Sorry that happened to you. Sad to see. NOW I understand even better why dealers & shops must turn down jobs if customer will not / can not pay for OEM (branded / trustworthy) parts. Lots of junk out there. I just finished my own DIY 120K service on my 2003 Lexus RX300. I spent HOURS just to find "trustworthy" (Boxed & Labeled) NGK OEM Plugs. Then could NOT find properly-labeled DENSO OEM Coils. Finally bought NGK OEM Coils. (Japan-labeled & boxed) ... and all is now good. My OEM parts costs / materials ~ $700 ... (over $360 just for 6 Coils) ... but shops are charging almost $200 EACH plus labor. (Those back 3 plugs & coils were a TRUE PAIN to change.) My thanks Hawaii Budget Mechanic for your video which gave me the courage to do it without removing the intake plenum. Dealer wanted $2,100, and the local / mobile shops are only about 10-15% less. A new and growing concern is that the "technicians" in many shops are treated like serfs, are under-trained, lack experience ... and have the Dealer / Owner pushing them HARD to do more in less time. e.g. Some will just "check off" a fluid change ... rather than actually change it ... because they are so desperate for money and time. Nowadays few vehicle owners can do anything themselves. And the dealers and shops know it. All while the complexity is climbing and regulations are relentless. e.g. Early
Crazy Cat Lady story - A 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi comes in with P0420 code. Checked the Bank 1 O2s to find that the upstream is working correctly and the downstream is following it. Bank 2 sensors appeared to be working normally. The OEM cats come as a unit with both cats and the Y-pipe. It's pretty expensive but we have never found an aftermarket that looks even remotely right. Even my manager refuses to try them. The job was declined. Customer's words "Well, I think that's too much. Since it isn't running bad or anything I'll wait to fix it". About a month later, she came back with not only the P0420 code but also the P0430 code. A muffler shop had welded in an aftermarket generic replacement cat for $600. THEY HAD REPLACED THE WRONG SIDE!!!! Plus the cat was way too small. She called the muffler shop and they refused to help her. She said they claimed she was told that there was no warranty on the job. She says she doesn't remember them telling her that but it is stamped in red on her receipt "No Warranty On Parts Or Labor". She is very upset and is blaming us for not making her fix it right away when she was first having the problem and now it's going to cost her a lot more money. She starts bawling right in the middle of the service write up area. Slides down to the floor and is gasping for air then jumps up and starts pointing her finger at everybody yelling "Are you going to help me?". I was afraid she was going to start shooting at people or something. Luckily there were no other customers there. Our manager calmly told her "M'am, you need to settle down. We will still repair your Jeep for the price we quoted before." She completely changed her attitude and said "Really? When can you do it?" He said "Tomorrow." She signed the paperwork and I haven't seen her since. TG
Stopped quoting aftermarket cats on P0420 jobs because with in 1-2 years the efficiency would drop enough to set fault again every time. OE💸 is the only way to go to fix for good
I bought an eBay y pipe assembly for my 13 Silverado that has the converters welded in as an assembly. The bank 1, sensor 2 (o2 for cat) bung was welded so low into the exhaust stream that I would constantly get p420 faults (that wasn’t even an original problem or fault). I had to screw in one of those 18mm spark plug anti fouling extensions in to get the o2 sensor to read properly.
Customers budget, I could give a rip less what somebody budget is. This is what it costs to do it, would you like it done by me? Cheap out and you have to eat the time doing it over again. In this case, I would have not done an OE cat either. BUT maybe a higher grade aftermarket cat could be found. Those 2 look like garbage.
Eric I guess aftermarket parts are a crapshoot know matter what they are but sometimes the cost is so extreme your options are limited. Thanks for sharing the good and the bad. You and family stay safe and well 😊 Artie
The entire bottom section of the cat was welded in the wrong position. Look at the bottom flange and the left seam. to far clockwise. Monday morning or friday after lunch weld.
Wish I had a fitment problem. My aftermarket became inefficient after 2 years. Downstream o2 shows good reading when driving but at idle inlet and outlet sit at the same temps giving me hell to complete readiness.
Aftermarket wins.. Stop buying NON USA cars. Most USA cars allow for AM converters & Parts. AM converters on USA cars allows better airflow from the engine which leads to an increase HP and acceleration (This was Dyno tested). if you notice after market CC don't have all the crap inside that causes all the engine powerless that OEM causes... I hope more people stop dealing with OEM so that OEM would then become more affordable. It is not customers fault aftermarket is cheaper than OEM that's what needs work done...
Bro... New viewer to your site, In my investigation, whereas NEW cats are full with the inter substructure, the AFTERMARKET ones are cavitied with only about 30% full of substructure, thus, both not working as efficiently, and not lasting long...I am enjoying your vids.
When I had my timing belt water pump spark plugs pulleys thermostat changed I got all Japanese OEM products. The mechanic that did the job said he was so happy I got OEM products. I told him they were twice as much as the aftermarket ones, he also said always better to get oem products for repairs.
have you tried angle adapters or adapters to move the sensor out a 4th or 20 percent out from the pipe im curios if the codes stop popping up when adapters are used,
Maybe things have changed but back in the 90s and early 2000s, you could get several types of converters. Either cheap ones or expensive ones. I always got the expensive ones. If a customer wanted a cheap one I just sent them down to the muffler shop to get it done. Not touching that. Never had issues with the expensive ones. They were basically oe types.
I'm a mechanic myself. I've been turning wrenches since I was 12 and I am now 44. No matter what I use, weather OEM or aftermarket. I ALWAYS double check to make sure I don't have an interference fit like you experienced here. OEM parts can be a problem too. I've worked in indipendant shops, performance shops aswell as dealerships. You have to get into the habit of checking for fit for even OEM parts and not just aftermarket.
@@MrCarlosdelgado I would say I could trust Walker products. I have used many brands through out the years and can't say I've had much issues with walker.
the angle was bad of course but i get the feelings its the technician fault for 1: seeing the issue before it happen thinking it was gonna be ok. or 2: Observation checking over your work was not thorough. Or working for free can take a toll
First Rule on Aftermarket Stuff. Compare it with the old part. ;) In This Case maybe there is a shorter Ox-Sensor available that fits. Thank you for sharing this with us.
True, but this was sooo close, it's an easy mistake which is why it pays top not get complacent on seemingly "simple" jobs. It happens to everyone, just try and make it NOT happen on expensive parts.
I feel your pain about aftermarket junk parts. So many hours wasted fighting cheap rubbish because people can't,or usually won't pay for quality components. It's definitely getting harder to find decent parts, even big names like Bosch are manufacturing in China and similar places..
There is a possibility of alternative way if such a fitment problem found initially is to take the manifold to an exhaust shop where they can heat the incorrect area and bend the bunghole to avail the necessary space. Enjoy your time.
Dude, which part of comparing the old part to the new part did you forget? I've been working on cars for over 45 years and back in 1976, the first part I ever bought for my 1966 olds looked "different". And last week I bought a new fuel pump for my 2003 Ford and it "looked different" and yes... both parts purchased decades apart, were the wrong part in the right box. Back in 1976 it took me two days to figure out why the point set didn't work, last week I brought the old pump and gasket to the parts store and I made them find me the right gasket before I left the store and I wound up reusing the old isolator, because I didn't like the look of the new one. And believe it or not, that was a Delphi pump. Never trust your parts store, always match up the parts before you install them. After working on cars as long as I have, there's only one parts guy I half way trust... and he's going senile. So rule number 1- Always cross reference and match up your parts. Rule number 2- Double check rule number 1. Rule number 3- If the part is universal, it won't fit anything in the known universe. I'll add that there used to be a parts shop that always had every thing I needed, but it never fit. They would always exchange the part the next day or two. Finally one day I bought a part and when I couldn't install it, I called the shop and the girl told me she already had ordered the right part. So they absolutely knew they sold me the wrong part. Sorry to sound critical, but this is the part where us old times need to remind you young bucks that you can't skip the basics we learned the hard way, hopefully so you don't need to repeat our mistakes.
I've been doing this 20 years. I doubt anyone has an eye good enough to notice the angle of the sensor hole is off a few degrees. It was only noticeable when fully installed. Thanks for watching!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Yup, I've fallen for "close enough" parts over the years too. Don't get me wrong, if I didn't think you had skills, I wouldn't watch your videos. In fact, I watch channels like yours in order to stay current with more modern cars.
@@chekelley6861 Getting old sucks, but it still beats the alternative... and you can pretty much finally be cantankerous and say what you want because folks just figure you've gone simple.
Plenty of parts are redesigned, so in many case simply comparing them doesn't help that much, as long as they fit the car and serve the purpose. In reality there was only a few millimetres in this.
Magnaflow tripled their direct replacement carb converter price when they started stealing converters and the oe was in 4 month backorder. The sound is a tad nosier and the o2 protective shield was hitting car body causing a squeek on my Toyota Seqouia.
Aftermarket exhaust parts always present issues (as well as other replacement parts) such as missing/misaligned hangers, flanges welded offset/angled, etc. The most common I've found with cats have been misalignments of heat shield bolt mounts which fortunately is usually easy enough to fix but still frustrates and causes grey hairs every time it happens. 😣
Installing the shields were the most difficult part of this job. None of the holes lined up properly. I had to bend and modify the shields. Thanks for watching!
Ultimately this is human error due to the lack of attention plain and simple.There will always be fitment issues on parts some brands more than others.We the tech must pay close attention to detail so that we catch any possible damages that may occur to anything we fix or replace.
Honda wanted a HUGE price on a friend's 2000 Accord . It had to be CARB approved in New York . I got a Walker on Rock Auto . NO white box , third world off of Ebay . That is OK for an air freshener !
I bought a valve cover from Amazon and for a good price. I installed it...okay everything looks good and now the car wouldn’t turn on.. turns out the new cover was hitting the camshaft sensor and I had to mold/cut it in a way that it cost me a tad more. In conclusion, just buy something better or original. Btw the car was a Nissan Maxima
Does anybody have an opinion on HFCs with 200 cel count? They are running between $600 and $700 a piece...what do yall feel about the quality of these? They are more performance based for opening up the exhaust without completely eliminating the converter...
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction yea yea. It’s illegal to cut them off and put a pipe in its place or smash a pipe through them too . Like I said you just have to know that person at the yard . I know that it’s illegal. Total bullshit if you ask me .
@@joehomanick I never mentioned cutting out a pipe of vehicle , here in California if a junk yard sales a used catalyst converted they get $20 k fine and possible rovoquing of the business licenses , that is what I mean no way here to get used cat in legal way, none of the junk yards will risk there business , yes I am talking about those vehicles on the junk yard the ones the crash them with the catalyst converted but can. Not be sale.
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction look 👀 I know that’s illegal ...... however you can always find a person ... just like selling drugs is illegal however people sell them every day .
LOL, even if it wasn't illegal, the way they throw those things around I'd be hesitate to install a scrap yard converter. Maybe, if I remove it myself I would be willing to try it, if they would "sell" it to me or turn their backs for a moment. LOL
I do not use aftermarket engine performance and emission parts full stop. I have been burnt multiple times by aftermarket parts. If customer cannot afford then I'm not the mechanic for them.
I am working on a 1986 Buick Grand National. It needed a brake booster. It's an electric pump brake booster. Not available OEM or aftermarket. Finally found a place in Alabama that rebuilds them as long as the electric motor is still functional. It took two and a half months from shipping it out and to getting it back. Only cost $989 plus $27 return shipping. Now that the brakes are working properly, we have to figure out how to get an OEM style turbo. Owner (who also owns the shop) wants to keep it as close to original as possible. There's no OEM or aftermarket replacements for it. There's also very limited service info on this car. I work flat rate and I have lost my ass on this car and wish it would disappear. I told the manager that if they ever bring in a POS car like this for me again, I will retire sooner than I plan. He laughed and said he was sorry. Not half as sorry as I am LOL. I even suggested gutting the turbo and leaving it to look like it was still there. They didn't like that idea.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Yeah, that sucks, cause it’s all labor. How you supposed to know it’s defective, until you put it in? Well, at least the second one worked for ya?👍
I've never seen a cat mounted so close to the engine that it was accessible under the hood like that. I have 2 on my 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7L and both failed. Aftermarket options are $699 each, OEM three times that but doesn't matter because the supply chain delay is being measured in months. That aftermarket unit isn't a universal, it actually includes the pipes from the headers, so hopefully they designed the damn things with an ounce of precision.
Eric, i gotta do my 06 santa fe ( Hyundai) 3.5. its a California catalyst type (sticker under hood) so its gotta be cali compliant... Was wondering if you had any luck with the Magnaflow or whatever aftermarket cats? I have all my sensors before that last cat im replacing... (Some scumbag pos stole it, hes lucky i didn't catch him because i definitely would have put him in his forever box). Just wondering if youve used those particularly, and what universal ones to stay away from...
I've had lots of issues with Walker products claiming to be direct replacements but find the pipe diameters are much larger or smaller even though the overall size is right.
I worked at a exhaust shop and had issues like this we had bungs that we could weld in to change position of the o2 sensors when people brought us junk aftermarket cats and we'd tell them no warranty and they'd go ok and we'd tell them it's not gona last but they know best and we would get it in writing so when it came back we where covered Shake my head
That specific aftermarket cat is also physically smaller than the OEM, so the elements have to be smaller as well. I wouldn't think it would do the intended job at the same capacity. Maybe exact replacement would do the job. ...CARB compliant Subaru cats cost over $3 grand for the parts, so I'm hoping cleaning or exchanging sensors etc, plus trying to clean the cat do the trick. Thanks for your video.
pretty accurate, although if I saw the unit rubbing on the block after installing I would have been pretty upset. what I would like to know is why 02 sensors are not better designed, shorter nub, 45 degree offset and the like. they haven't changed in like 30 years, where is the innovation here.
It's always been difficult being a mechanic, customers always complaining, forcing the shop to use cheaper parts. On a 2005 Honda Accord I said let me call the dealer, $5200 only in parts plus tax plus labor, the insurance totaled the car. BMW, Audi, Volkswagen I did it many times and the part alone from dealer was $2500 and some needs two so do the matt, that shop use to put always O'E' because they had so much problems with aftermarket, just imagine the customer face, the car it's worth $4000 and you are asking $5000 for the cats, Would you spend that much money if the car was yours? Next thing you know the transmission goes, most customers say, I'm going to sell the car I just needed for one or two more years I don't want to spend that much money, and that's understandable. Often, we send the customer to muffler shop, and we don't get involved at all.
I can tell you this, here in Houston, there have been a string of cat robberies. My buddy got hit and is still waiting for the replacement one from the dealer. Dealer says 4-6 weeks....looking like 4-6 months at this point.
I agree with Eric... and to top it off, due to the disruptions in supply chains cause by this damned virus, getting some parts has been made impossible to near impossible. (A good mechanic can't win right now.... because he/she is forced to buy whatever they can get, knowing their reputation is riding on the quality of said part!)
I work near Flint, MI. Our dealer lots got hit hard a few months back. They got the cats off of 42 of our inventory vehicles and 3 customer vehicles all in one weekend. LOL they're getting the cameras fixed now.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair - I do mostly used car recons and getting aftermarket brake pads and rotors is getting hard on some vehicles. We can't certify the used cars because we can't get OEM parts.
This is why I only do side jobs for my buddy's and explain to the ninth degree that if it's aftermarket it's them that are rolling the dice! No matter the part....goes double on cats!
Can this front manifold precat just be deleted?? They only work to save the other cats while they warm up and only really have mesh in them and barely any precious metals
I get what Eric is saying re the aftermarket converters, and why to stick with OEM, and I would definitely agree in most cases. However there are certain circumstances where the OEM is so outrageously expensive that it makes zero sense to use it. In my case, I own a 2002 Accord that had the cat cut off by thieves, when I went to price a new OEM, the cheapest I could possibly find one was $2300! That is not a typo- $2300!!!! Obviously when the price of the cat is around the same value as the whole car, it makes zero financial sense to use it. I did some research on aftermarket converters & ended up going with a Walker instead (although I DID use the OEM Denso O2 sensor) and no issues yet.
You install it first and knew the O2 sensor was being crushed yet you let it be in hopes everything would ok but it came back to bite you! That's why i get OE style CARB compliant high quality converters by Walker as they make superior CATs!
The rear catalytic converter in my wife's 2006 Mazda 6 verified to be causing poor engine power. I should be ok with the BRE cat @ $300. The OE parts are ridiculously expensive.
there are aftermarket converters that are oem grade and others that are like 40% cheaper that are designed to pass but right at the limit (the limits go lower for an older car so that’s why they can do that and you will still pass). Anyway it all depends on the quality and certification. cheap 100$ (cat only without anything else but the case, no fittings) will probably not work. best option I think is to go with a sport metallic core (FIA approved) cat right after the headers about $100 weld on, then a ceramic core at about 300$. this should last long because the metallic burns the excess fuel then an adequate amount will enter the ceramic that will be able to handle it. Alternatively a good brand ceramic core at some distance 1m will probably still pass. ceramic near the headers will always fail. a cat should last like 10-20years. otherwise it means something is not right with the design. When there is a problem with the engine the ceramic cores that are close to the engine will fail. The manufacturer assumes you keep the car in perfectly running condition but sometimes things go wrong. If you have codes and you continue to run like that you will melt the cats. but even without codes, aggressive driving may shorten their life but that would mean a poor design of the exhaust…there are examples
if you mean "Will they screw in?" the answer is yes. As far as fit and proper function, the sensors should do what they're design to do but who knows about the cat.
i would of made the customer buy the sensor. they got what they paid for. sucks for them . too many good techs get taken advantage from cheap customers! let them know that you will put it in for free and the new cat for free and the second code diag for free but they buy the 02...
let them know and realise they still saving $600 going aftermarket. the way you word things out will save your butt from buying things. a loyal customer will realize they fucked up being cheap but at least they have a honest tech who isnt ripping them off..
like before the job was sold you should of been any problems that arise will not be warrantable. They will get free labor tho for the warranty, and a quick free diag.. loyal customers understand!! if they leave then good, get there cheap ass out of here!! there is tons of cars that need work. better to loose a cheap customer and keep loyal customers only
I am not concern with the position of the sensors , they could be off a bit , I am concerned with the internal construction of the catalyst converter , OEM are more than twice on price mist of the time .
Eric, I respect you for showing your error so you can help others prevent theirs. Your honesty will reward you with increase in viewership and customers.
For my cars aftermarket converters are $98-$150 vs $1200-$1500 for OEM. That’s a lot more than double the price… The oldest eBay converter I used fit fine and passed codes, but it did rot out after 7 years in the salt belt. Not terrible considering the Original OEM made it 9 years. In my experience, if you can swap the part yourself, an aftermarket is not a bad option.
Obviously lol. This guy and all the guys like him don't know how to explain to people the difference, and get themselves in trouble . I would literally cut the cats off my priuses and replace them with aftermarkets, sell the oem for the price I paid for the entire car, and then still sell the car for full price. Aftermarket is WAY more logical
Agreed. 99 crv lx I got the P0420 and decided to get an aftermarket cat. $80 vs $1,200 for an oem. If the $80 one fails after a couple years. I’d safely say I got my $80 worth and get another one.
When you say pass codes you mean the obd 2 or smog check ? I would it pass smog ?
@@CasualGaming76 How did that go? Any update on how it’s running?
@@royalforeverguy 3 months after installing the new cat w new o2 sensors the code returned. I suspected an exhaust leak somewhere and didn’t find one so I blamed the part. Other than that code being there the vehicle ran just fine. For piece of mine I’d rescan to see if any new codes popped up ever month or so. I absolutely hate the check engine light 😆
How does this channel not have 300k+ subs? Blows my mind.
I agree , the man knows his stuff and give such easy understandable explanation
I've used Magna Flow direct fit converters a couple of times and so far so good.
Just curious as a mechanic or on a personal car?
That’s exactly why I don’t need or do side jobs anymore. If people want something done, go to the shop. The shop could take the blow but I’m done doing this to help anyone besides my mom and wife.
I agree with you! If friends what a bit of help, I don't mind assisting, but they make all the diags and choices as to what to do and spend. Otherwise, they can go to a garage. I am must a DIYer.
Well to be fair, no offence Eric, but you probably should have checked it all before letting it go.
It's not like the cat actually failed - sure the design wasn't close enough where it mattered - though I wonder if this cat fits multiple vehicles. Are shorter sensors available?
I hear you. I have been a mechanic for 30+ years, many times I call it garbage trade, the amount of B.S. that we have to go trough.
I had an interesting discussion with a representative on line from Eastern. Walker is similar in this respect. They are noted for skimping on the active metals in the catalytic converters but in addition the choices they make for the zeolite substrate support is not robust enough to last the warranty period. Magnaflow if they make a catalytic converter do have lines that they warranty for 5 years or longer. These cats either are CARB certified or are OEM certified level. IMHO if you need to replace a catalytic converter, the OEM is the best choice, consider Magnaflow for a second choice and only go to Walker or Eastern if you have to. I am a PhD chemist and have seen patents on the subject and the OEM design to last for 80K miles or 8 years for their units. This is to meet EPA regs. Magnaflow is the only 3rd party that makes efforts to make sure their converters are CARB compliant. If you have a choice, in this case, the CARB compliant catalytic converters are the only ones that will last.
Agree 100%. A brand new Walker catalytic converter failed two days after I installed it on my car. About 1/4 cup of tiny metallic pallets came out of the converter after I removed it. Both oxygen sensors in full working conditions got stuck in the sensor holes. Had to use a pipe wrench to remove them. The bung hole metal ring seemed to have melted and fused to the converter threads. Both are now unusable. I am putting back the OEM cat with 280,000 miles on it. I thought I was getting a newer and better performing converter. Was I wrong! I’ll get the purchase price back on the converter, but nothing else, I believe. Huge lessons learned.
Walker has federal and carb cats...
Great information, however, Magnaflow is not the only 3rd party making a CARB converter. Walker and AP Exhaust both have CARB approved products
Totally agree about aftermarket converters. Most customer, especially on older cars can't justify the cost of an oem converter.
You can thank the govt for all the these converters that DRAMATICALLY affect the performance of our vehicles and they regulated how much the EPA charges for these components. Forcing the customers hand we buy cheap knock offs and they fail! Great vid tho thanks man I appreciate your experience and sharing that with us all. You’re an honest chap I like that
Great comment. I have been a mechanic for over 30+ years.
How dramatically?
Seems like the jobs you do for your family always get you. It’s like my neighbor always says. No good deed goes unpunished. 🤣🤣
Such a true statement. Anytime you go into if your way it 🔥 you
there is o2 sensor realignments tubes that can be insterted to either create a 45 degree or 90 degree bend then he sensor gets locked in the extension pipe.
Great video! But it's the government's fault for not allowing used converters to be reused on another car. As a result OEM converters are super expensive and new aftermarket converters are junk. One pair of bad catalytic converters can sometimes total a car. In South Texas many people take their cars with cat problems across the border to Mexico and install used cats there, where it's legal. I sometimes prefer to install used but original parts from the junkyard than new aftermarket junk from the parts store. It's always more reliable!
I like when you troubleshoot instead of working on a project, keeping the cars different makes it more interesting. Thanks for the content!!
The P0420 code has just popped up on my son's 2003 Accord, 185,000 miles. I know the engine burns oil, probably a quart every 1000 miles so it's a combination of this and the fact it appears to be the original Cat that has probably lead to it fouling. Cleared the code for him, but I know engine warning light will come back so will look at replacing the Cat before the next state inspection. Car is running fine, spark plugs look good. Seen replacement Cat's for around $100 on eBay and Amazon so intend to take a chance with one of these, I will look at the user reviews to see which are rated highest. I put rust dissolver and lubricant on the rusty bolts in preparation of the job which I'll probably complete early in the New Year!
#1 converter failure is weak o2 sensor, then #2 A/F sensor and on and on. Converter fail not because they are after market but because they don't solve the reason the converter went bad.
the converter itself was fine - it was a manufacturing defect- even oem parts fail sometimes due to that. the second one worked fine so its not an issue of the converter itself . Why pay 2x or 3x more for the same thing?
That's akin to comparing a McD's cheeseburger to one off your grill.
You can't catch a break! I turn down work that involves cats because nobody ever buys a OEM unit and the aftermarket always comes back to bite you.
I’ll do the job.. but I’ll tell them straight up absolutely no warranty on the labor ..I’ll put whatever you want on your car if it’s not dangerous. But if I didn’t buy the part I’m not guaranteeing anything other than my ability to install it and/or remove it when it’s broke again.
Use aftermarket on ODB1 vehicles. They aren't even being monitored and often time, OEM ones don't exist anymore.
@@topherd1011 exactly!! I don't understand what's so hard about telling people just like that. I swear I won't come back, just put this on for me and charge ur labor, that's it!
I'm investigating an aftermarket Magnaflow catalytic converter. Are the aftermarket ones you've had problems with a "name brand" or basic cheap stuff NAPA will deliver quick?
Had the same crap with a walker CARB compliant cat for a 2003 Taurus. Bank one sensor 2 bung was welded incorrectly causing the O2 monitor sensor to hit an engine /trans bracket. Had to blue flame wrench the bung to get it moved so O2 sensor had proper clearance. A couple of degrees off means a lot. OEM from now on after that debacle.
Glad I live in a state with no emissions testing. I had my old cat rebuilt and it’s working good so far.
Thanks for your video and information. Good Job.
Sorry that happened to you. Sad to see.
NOW I understand even better why dealers & shops must turn down jobs if customer will not / can not pay for OEM (branded / trustworthy) parts. Lots of junk out there. I just finished my own DIY 120K service on my 2003 Lexus RX300. I spent HOURS just to find "trustworthy" (Boxed & Labeled) NGK OEM Plugs. Then could NOT find properly-labeled DENSO OEM Coils. Finally bought NGK OEM Coils. (Japan-labeled & boxed) ... and all is now good. My OEM parts costs / materials ~ $700 ... (over $360 just for 6 Coils) ... but shops are charging almost $200 EACH plus labor.
(Those back 3 plugs & coils were a TRUE PAIN to change.)
My thanks Hawaii Budget Mechanic for your video which gave me the courage to do it without removing the intake plenum. Dealer wanted $2,100, and the local / mobile shops are only about 10-15% less. A new and growing concern is that the "technicians" in many shops are treated like serfs, are under-trained, lack experience ... and have the Dealer / Owner pushing them HARD to do more in less time. e.g. Some will just "check off" a fluid change ... rather than actually change it ... because they are so desperate for money and time. Nowadays few vehicle owners can do anything themselves. And the dealers and shops know it.
All while the complexity is climbing and regulations are relentless. e.g. Early
I think we have all learned a few things from your experience Eric. Thanks for the video.
Crazy Cat Lady story - A 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.7 Hemi comes in with P0420 code. Checked the Bank 1 O2s to find that the upstream is working correctly and the downstream is following it. Bank 2 sensors appeared to be working normally. The OEM cats come as a unit with both cats and the Y-pipe. It's pretty expensive but we have never found an aftermarket that looks even remotely right. Even my manager refuses to try them. The job was declined. Customer's words "Well, I think that's too much. Since it isn't running bad or anything I'll wait to fix it". About a month later, she came back with not only the P0420 code but also the P0430 code. A muffler shop had welded in an aftermarket generic replacement cat for $600. THEY HAD REPLACED THE WRONG SIDE!!!! Plus the cat was way too small. She called the muffler shop and they refused to help her. She said they claimed she was told that there was no warranty on the job. She says she doesn't remember them telling her that but it is stamped in red on her receipt "No Warranty On Parts Or Labor". She is very upset and is blaming us for not making her fix it right away when she was first having the problem and now it's going to cost her a lot more money. She starts bawling right in the middle of the service write up area. Slides down to the floor and is gasping for air then jumps up and starts pointing her finger at everybody yelling "Are you going to help me?". I was afraid she was going to start shooting at people or something. Luckily there were no other customers there. Our manager calmly told her "M'am, you need to settle down. We will still repair your Jeep for the price we quoted before." She completely changed her attitude and said "Really? When can you do it?" He said "Tomorrow." She signed the paperwork and I haven't seen her since. TG
😂
Jeeps suck.
Stopped quoting aftermarket cats on P0420 jobs because with in 1-2 years the efficiency would drop enough to set fault again every time. OE💸 is the only way to go to fix for good
Often extremely true. If the factory cat failed, there was probably a reason, that probably hasn't been fixed.
I bought an eBay y pipe assembly for my 13 Silverado that has the converters welded in as an assembly. The bank 1, sensor 2 (o2 for cat) bung was welded so low into the exhaust stream that I would constantly get p420 faults (that wasn’t even an original problem or fault). I had to screw in one of those 18mm spark plug anti fouling extensions in to get the o2 sensor to read properly.
Thanks for sharing Bro, very honest approach towards helping us all in avoiding these situations👍
Stay Safe👍
Customers budget, I could give a rip less what somebody budget is. This is what it costs to do it, would you like it done by me? Cheap out and you have to eat the time doing it over again.
In this case, I would have not done an OE cat either. BUT maybe a higher grade aftermarket cat could be found. Those 2 look like garbage.
Exactly. If you need a knee replacement, do you want them to put in cheap parts?
Eric I guess aftermarket parts are a crapshoot know matter what they are but sometimes the cost is so extreme your options are limited. Thanks for sharing the good and the bad. You and family stay safe and well 😊 Artie
Nice video and good job! Good to see honest and transparent mechanics. I would take my car to you anytime.
The entire bottom section of the cat was welded in the wrong position. Look at the bottom flange and the left seam. to far clockwise. Monday morning or friday after lunch weld.
after the 420 break maybe?
Wish I had a fitment problem. My aftermarket became inefficient after 2 years. Downstream o2 shows good reading when driving but at idle inlet and outlet sit at the same temps giving me hell to complete readiness.
Aftermarket wins.. Stop buying NON USA cars. Most USA cars allow for AM converters & Parts. AM converters on USA cars allows better airflow from the engine which leads to an increase HP and acceleration (This was Dyno tested). if you notice after market CC don't have all the crap inside that causes all the engine powerless that OEM causes... I hope more people stop dealing with OEM so that OEM would then become more affordable. It is not customers fault aftermarket is cheaper than OEM that's what needs work done...
Bro... New viewer to your site, In my investigation, whereas NEW cats are full with the inter substructure, the AFTERMARKET ones are cavitied with only about 30% full of substructure, thus, both not working as efficiently, and not lasting long...I am enjoying your vids.
When I had my timing belt water pump spark plugs pulleys thermostat changed I got all Japanese OEM products. The mechanic that did the job said he was so happy I got OEM products. I told him they were twice as much as the aftermarket ones, he also said always better to get oem products for repairs.
I like your honesty so much
Did you install aftermarket or the customer bring in the aftermarket for you to install and pay labor only???
P0420 code is lit 🔥🔥🔥
have you tried angle adapters or adapters to move the sensor out a 4th or 20 percent out from the pipe im curios if the codes stop popping up when adapters are used,
Yup the questions nobody answers
you admitted to it for that i give you credit. remember what doc said- ya gotta slow down to go fast.
Maybe things have changed but back in the 90s and early 2000s, you could get several types of converters. Either cheap ones or expensive ones. I always got the expensive ones. If a customer wanted a cheap one I just sent them down to the muffler shop to get it done. Not touching that. Never had issues with the expensive ones. They were basically oe types.
citric acid will save most converters so you dont even have to buy one.
I'm a mechanic myself. I've been turning wrenches since I was 12 and I am now 44. No matter what I use, weather OEM or aftermarket. I ALWAYS double check to make sure I don't have an interference fit like you experienced here. OEM parts can be a problem too. I've worked in indipendant shops, performance shops aswell as dealerships. You have to get into the habit of checking for fit for even OEM parts and not just aftermarket.
Hi
Have you worked with Walker brand for catalyst? Is it any reliable?
Thanks
@@MrCarlosdelgado I would say I could trust Walker products. I have used many brands through out the years and can't say I've had much issues with walker.
@@brucehirsch5437 awesome!
Thank you.
The welds should have told you everything you needed to know.
Yeah, that thing belongs in the trash can. Looks like a students welding project.
My first thoughts, I would NEVER install anything with welds like that! Looks like a kids first attempt in shop class!
the angle was bad of course but i get the feelings its the technician fault for 1: seeing the issue before it happen thinking it was gonna be ok. or 2: Observation checking over your work was not thorough. Or working for free can take a toll
First Rule on Aftermarket Stuff. Compare it with the old part. ;) In This Case maybe there is a shorter Ox-Sensor available that fits. Thank you for sharing this with us.
True, but this was sooo close, it's an easy mistake which is why it pays top not get complacent on seemingly "simple" jobs.
It happens to everyone, just try and make it NOT happen on expensive parts.
I feel your pain about aftermarket junk parts. So many hours wasted fighting cheap rubbish because people can't,or usually won't pay for quality components. It's definitely getting harder to find decent parts, even big names like Bosch are manufacturing in China and similar places..
I HATE aftermarket crap. But when my car(s) are 25+ years old, its hard to find OEM anything, even on eBay.
Sometimes it's hard to find aftermarket parts, too. Especially if it's a rare version of the vehicle.
Same here, 25 year old car, cannot find catalytic converter nor the entire exhaust system.
Cat was stolen and they cut the pipes
There is a possibility of alternative way if such a fitment problem found initially is to take the manifold to an exhaust shop where they can heat the incorrect area and bend the bunghole to avail the necessary space. Enjoy your time.
Dude, which part of comparing the old part to the new part did you forget? I've been working on cars for over 45 years and back in 1976, the first part I ever bought for my 1966 olds looked "different". And last week I bought a new fuel pump for my 2003 Ford and it "looked different" and yes... both parts purchased decades apart, were the wrong part in the right box. Back in 1976 it took me two days to figure out why the point set didn't work, last week I brought the old pump and gasket to the parts store and I made them find me the right gasket before I left the store and I wound up reusing the old isolator, because I didn't like the look of the new one. And believe it or not, that was a Delphi pump.
Never trust your parts store, always match up the parts before you install them. After working on cars as long as I have, there's only one parts guy I half way trust... and he's going senile. So rule number 1- Always cross reference and match up your parts. Rule number 2- Double check rule number 1. Rule number 3- If the part is universal, it won't fit anything in the known universe.
I'll add that there used to be a parts shop that always had every thing I needed, but it never fit. They would always exchange the part the next day or two. Finally one day I bought a part and when I couldn't install it, I called the shop and the girl told me she already had ordered the right part. So they absolutely knew they sold me the wrong part.
Sorry to sound critical, but this is the part where us old times need to remind you young bucks that you can't skip the basics we learned the hard way, hopefully so you don't need to repeat our mistakes.
I've been doing this 20 years. I doubt anyone has an eye good enough to notice the angle of the sensor hole is off a few degrees. It was only noticeable when fully installed. Thanks for watching!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Yup, I've fallen for "close enough" parts over the years too.
Don't get me wrong, if I didn't think you had skills, I wouldn't watch your videos. In fact, I watch channels like yours in order to stay current with more modern cars.
Ok boomer
@@chekelley6861 Getting old sucks, but it still beats the alternative... and you can pretty much finally be cantankerous and say what you want because folks just figure you've gone simple.
Plenty of parts are redesigned, so in many case simply comparing them doesn't help that much, as long as they fit the car and serve the purpose. In reality there was only a few millimetres in this.
Magnaflow tripled their direct replacement carb converter price when they started stealing converters and the oe was in 4 month backorder. The sound is a tad nosier and the o2 protective shield was hitting car body causing a squeek on my Toyota Seqouia.
Thanks for your honesty bro!
I hate them too!
I've used the Davico brand a few times on some Altimas with great success. I may have gotten lucky. 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Hey eric. How long do aftermarket catalytic converters last would you say? And which brands of aftermarket would you say are generally better? Thanks.
Its always a good idea to replace your 02 sensors when you replace the cat... most manufacturers will void your warranty if you dont
Aftermarket exhaust parts always present issues (as well as other replacement parts) such as missing/misaligned hangers, flanges welded offset/angled, etc. The most common I've found with cats have been misalignments of heat shield bolt mounts which fortunately is usually easy enough to fix but still frustrates and causes grey hairs every time it happens. 😣
Installing the shields were the most difficult part of this job. None of the holes lined up properly. I had to bend and modify the shields. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I did have one question regarding an aftermarket cat. Is it safe to use cataclean??
Ultimately this is human error due to the lack of attention plain and simple.There will always be fitment issues on parts some brands more than others.We the tech must pay close attention to detail so that we catch any possible damages that may occur to anything we fix or replace.
Is this a problem in all aftermarkets catalytic converters ? maybe some are better than others ? :) great video as usual :)
What aftermarket Cat Conv recommendations can you make? Brands/Seller etc.
Honda wanted a HUGE price on a friend's 2000 Accord . It had to be CARB approved in New York . I got a Walker on Rock Auto . NO white box , third world off of Ebay . That is OK for an air freshener !
I bought a valve cover from Amazon and for a good price. I installed it...okay everything looks good and now the car wouldn’t turn on.. turns out the new cover was hitting the camshaft sensor and I had to mold/cut it in a way that it cost me a tad more. In conclusion, just buy something better or original. Btw the car was a Nissan Maxima
NO answers to questions here from the video creator?
Does anybody have an opinion on HFCs with 200 cel count? They are running between $600 and $700 a piece...what do yall feel about the quality of these? They are more performance based for opening up the exhaust without completely eliminating the converter...
You just have to know that person in the salvage yard that will let you buy a used Oem converter. All they want is the scrap value .
In the United States is illegal to sell or buy used catalyst converted
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction yea yea. It’s illegal to cut them off and put a pipe in its place or smash a pipe through them too . Like I said you just have to know that person at the yard . I know that it’s illegal. Total bullshit if you ask me .
@@joehomanick I never mentioned cutting out a pipe of vehicle , here in California if a junk yard sales a used catalyst converted they get $20 k fine and possible rovoquing of the business licenses , that is what I mean no way here to get used cat in legal way, none of the junk yards will risk there business , yes I am talking about those vehicles on the junk yard the ones the crash them with the catalyst converted but can. Not be sale.
@@JoelAutomotiveInaction look 👀 I know that’s illegal ...... however you can always find a person ... just like selling drugs is illegal however people sell them every day .
LOL, even if it wasn't illegal, the way they throw those things around I'd be hesitate to install a scrap yard converter. Maybe, if I remove it myself I would be willing to try it, if they would "sell" it to me or turn their backs for a moment. LOL
I do not use aftermarket engine performance and emission parts full stop. I have been burnt multiple times by aftermarket parts. If customer cannot afford then I'm not the mechanic for them.
I am working on a 1986 Buick Grand National. It needed a brake booster. It's an electric pump brake booster. Not available OEM or aftermarket. Finally found a place in Alabama that rebuilds them as long as the electric motor is still functional. It took two and a half months from shipping it out and to getting it back. Only cost $989 plus $27 return shipping. Now that the brakes are working properly, we have to figure out how to get an OEM style turbo. Owner (who also owns the shop) wants to keep it as close to original as possible. There's no OEM or aftermarket replacements for it. There's also very limited service info on this car. I work flat rate and I have lost my ass on this car and wish it would disappear. I told the manager that if they ever bring in a POS car like this for me again, I will retire sooner than I plan. He laughed and said he was sorry. Not half as sorry as I am LOL. I even suggested gutting the turbo and leaving it to look like it was still there. They didn't like that idea.
@@meabob I can feel that pain bro. That's why I do not work on old cars. Anything with carby, get the f out haha.
Should that wire be so close to the coolant hose? Also, did you use OEM 02 sensors or aftermarket?
That sucks! That’s not your fault! Look how far off, the first bung hole was, compared to the second one? The angle was at least an inch off?
THAT, technically, is a manufacturers defect, and is usually liable for a replacement. (part only, no labor)
@@HouseCallAutoRepair Yeah, that sucks, cause it’s all labor. How you supposed to know it’s defective, until you put it in? Well, at least the second one worked for ya?👍
I've never seen a cat mounted so close to the engine that it was accessible under the hood like that. I have 2 on my 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7L and both failed. Aftermarket options are $699 each, OEM three times that but doesn't matter because the supply chain delay is being measured in months. That aftermarket unit isn't a universal, it actually includes the pipes from the headers, so hopefully they designed the damn things with an ounce of precision.
In 2011 Nissan Altima I replaced the cat twice and put new sensor all a round the second time and the problem never came back
I like to replace the O2 sensors when doing a cat job. Too many times they come back shortly with O2 sensor issues.
Eric, i gotta do my 06 santa fe ( Hyundai) 3.5. its a California catalyst type (sticker under hood) so its gotta be cali compliant... Was wondering if you had any luck with the Magnaflow or whatever aftermarket cats? I have all my sensors before that last cat im replacing... (Some scumbag pos stole it, hes lucky i didn't catch him because i definitely would have put him in his forever box). Just wondering if youve used those particularly, and what universal ones to stay away from...
I’ve had pretty good luck with Walker branded exhaust parts. Especially if you’re just looking to pass inspection.
I've had lots of issues with Walker products claiming to be direct replacements but find the pipe diameters are much larger or smaller even though the overall size is right.
How many miles have you run walker cat?
I worked at a exhaust shop and had issues like this we had bungs that we could weld in to change position of the o2 sensors when people brought us junk aftermarket cats and we'd tell them no warranty and they'd go ok and we'd tell them it's not gona last but they know best and we would get it in writing so when it came back we where covered Shake my head
That specific aftermarket cat is also physically smaller than the OEM, so the elements have to be smaller as well. I wouldn't think it would do the intended job at the same capacity. Maybe exact replacement would do the job. ...CARB compliant Subaru cats cost over $3 grand for the parts, so I'm hoping cleaning or exchanging sensors etc, plus trying to clean the cat do the trick. Thanks for your video.
Citric acid 6 hours works.
Sounds to me that it should be good practice to install the cats without the sensors first to avoid damaging them
Always check your work and then check it again.
pretty accurate, although if I saw the unit rubbing on the block after installing I would have been pretty upset. what I would like to know is why 02 sensors are not better designed, shorter nub, 45 degree offset and the like. they haven't changed in like 30 years, where is the innovation here.
What can you say about aftermarket catalytic converter manufactured in Canada?
It's always been difficult being a mechanic, customers always complaining, forcing the shop to use cheaper parts. On a 2005 Honda Accord I said let me call the dealer, $5200 only in parts plus tax plus labor, the insurance totaled the car. BMW, Audi, Volkswagen I did it many times and the part alone from dealer was $2500 and some needs two so do the matt, that shop use to put always O'E' because they had so much problems with aftermarket, just imagine the customer face, the car it's worth $4000 and you are asking $5000 for the cats, Would you spend that much money if the car was yours? Next thing you know the transmission goes, most customers say, I'm going to sell the car I just needed for one or two more years I don't want to spend that much money, and that's understandable. Often, we send the customer to muffler shop, and we don't get involved at all.
I can tell you this, here in Houston, there have been a string of cat robberies. My buddy got hit and is still waiting for the replacement one from the dealer. Dealer says 4-6 weeks....looking like 4-6 months at this point.
That really sucks. I hope authorities eventually find a way to fight this problem.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO me too man. I feel so bad for him.
I agree with Eric... and to top it off, due to the disruptions in supply chains cause by this damned virus, getting some parts has been made impossible to near impossible. (A good mechanic can't win right now.... because he/she is forced to buy whatever they can get, knowing their reputation is riding on the quality of said part!)
I work near Flint, MI. Our dealer lots got hit hard a few months back. They got the cats off of 42 of our inventory vehicles and 3 customer vehicles all in one weekend. LOL they're getting the cameras fixed now.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair - I do mostly used car recons and getting aftermarket brake pads and rotors is getting hard on some vehicles. We can't certify the used cars because we can't get OEM parts.
Does the aftermarket converters still pass smog?
This is why I only do side jobs for my buddy's and explain to the ninth degree that if it's aftermarket it's them that are rolling the dice! No matter the part....goes double on cats!
Can this front manifold precat just be deleted?? They only work to save the other cats while they warm up and only really have mesh in them and barely any precious metals
Why do people love aftermarket stuff when they know damn well you can only use OEM for thing's like this
I get what Eric is saying re the aftermarket converters, and why to stick with OEM, and I would definitely agree in most cases. However there are certain circumstances where the OEM is so outrageously expensive that it makes zero sense to use it. In my case, I own a 2002 Accord that had the cat cut off by thieves, when I went to price a new OEM, the cheapest I could possibly find one was $2300! That is not a typo- $2300!!!! Obviously when the price of the cat is around the same value as the whole car, it makes zero financial sense to use it. I did some research on aftermarket converters & ended up going with a Walker instead (although I DID use the OEM Denso O2 sensor) and no issues yet.
Hi
How many miles have you run it after you install Walker brand?
Thanks
Is it still good ?
How can anyone downvote this video? Maybe they are the aftermarket converter company folks.
Love your videos man keep them coming 👍
You install it first and knew the O2 sensor was being crushed yet you let it be in hopes everything would ok but it came back to bite you!
That's why i get OE style CARB compliant high quality converters by Walker as they make superior CATs!
Great tutorial. Thanks
“.....and that’s a job well done!” 👍🏼
You don't actually believe the car makers still manufacture all the Cats for all the cars they ever sold do you? Really?
In California, a factory converter is required or it will fail a smog check.
OEM Cat Converters are ridiculously priced!!!!
Can you give me wiring digram for jeep compass 2019 please
The rear catalytic converter in my wife's 2006 Mazda 6 verified to be causing poor engine power. I should be ok with the BRE cat @ $300. The OE parts are ridiculously expensive.
there are aftermarket converters that are oem grade and others that are like 40% cheaper that are designed to pass but right at the limit (the limits go lower for an older car so that’s why they can do that and you will still pass). Anyway it all depends on the quality and certification. cheap 100$ (cat only without anything else but the case, no fittings) will probably not work.
best option I think is to go with a sport metallic core (FIA approved) cat right after the headers about $100 weld on, then a ceramic core at about 300$. this should last long because the metallic burns the excess fuel then an adequate amount will enter the ceramic that will be able to handle it. Alternatively a good brand ceramic core at some distance 1m will probably still pass.
ceramic near the headers will always fail. a cat should last like 10-20years. otherwise it means something is not right with the design. When there is a problem with the engine the ceramic cores that are close to the engine will fail. The manufacturer assumes you keep the car in perfectly running condition but sometimes things go wrong. If you have codes and you continue to run like that you will melt the cats. but even without codes, aggressive driving may shorten their life but that would mean a poor design of the exhaust…there are examples
Would a high flow cat work with factory sensors?
if you mean "Will they screw in?" the answer is yes. As far as fit and proper function, the sensors should do what they're design to do but who knows about the cat.
i would of made the customer buy the sensor. they got what they paid for. sucks for them . too many good techs get taken advantage from cheap customers! let them know that you will put it in for free and the new cat for free and the second code diag for free but they buy the 02...
let them know and realise they still saving $600 going aftermarket. the way you word things out will
save your butt from buying things. a loyal customer will realize they fucked up being cheap but at least they have a honest tech who isnt ripping them off..
like before the job was sold you should of been any problems that arise will not be warrantable. They will get free labor tho for the warranty, and a quick free diag.. loyal customers understand!! if they leave then good, get there cheap ass out of here!! there is tons of cars that need work. better to loose a cheap customer and keep loyal customers only
I am not concern with the position of the sensors , they could be off a bit , I am concerned with the internal construction of the catalyst converter , OEM are more than twice on price mist of the time .
Thank you.
Are u located in florida?
What caused it to fail in the first place it’s only 2018