Hey Everyone, hope you've enjoyed the video and maybe even learnt something new 🙏🏻. If you had any damp related questions, put them down in the comments below 👇🏻 and I'll try to answer to the best of my knowledge
I admit I thought here we go again!!. Someone with some knowledge or experience with damp for good or bad reason and going to share their opinion on damp.. But you explained it in great detail and explained the difference in damp ...great video. I will be sharing this video with clients . It's also good that you're not claiming to be a damp expert and then the client can see that what we are telling them isn't a sales pitch..
Hey Leigh, thank you so much for the comment! I really appreciate it 🙏🏻 I tried to provide some value in my explanations, and as you mentioned it's definitely not a sales pitch. I've lived through all types of damp in the past and I know how frustrating it can be, especially when you want to get rid of it, but you don't know where to begin. If you could share with clients that would mean a lot to me. I want to educate/inform people about these kinds of topics and hopefully provide some insight based on experience. All the best!
I lived in England for the first 22 years of my life and understand what older homes are like there, I remember the open fireplace when I was little. That brings us to the main problem there today for high humidity levels in British homes, lack of air flow and ventilation. In Canada we do not have this problem so much, in the winter the outside air is colder and a lot dryer. Most Canadian homes have forced air heat, which mean’s indoor air is heated then blown to the extremities of the home and recirculated. So we have no standing air in the house. In Britain especially now with the energy prices everyone is trying to seal up their home’s, thus no airflow. I think the best thing to use is a powered dehumidifier to bring down the humidity levels and make the home seem warmer and more comfortable. Also adding fans to circulate the air in the house will help. Running a powered dehumidifier will pump out dryer warm air, but it may take weeks to help dry out a home and then maintain it.
Very good video and good advice. As someone who has experienced damp issues in our previous property and the many damp proofing cowboys, I totally agree that you need to to treat the cause and mask it from inside. Often damp at the bottom of external facing walls is caused by high ground levels outside.
I really appreciate you having made this video. I just spotted a suspected area of damp on my property today, so it's good to have a better understanding of the causes. Can you advise on what kind of trades person you would call out to assist with thus problem? Thanks.
Had to try multiple people to reduce the different internal damp signs. Got dehumidifier, fixed outside guttering that was dripping onto the external walls, repointed any mortar on walls that was easily falling out by moving over with it with a pen, or finger. Used checkatrade as a start and got a few quotes, checked going rates reviews.
Damp is caused by the cavity walls being bridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity).Cavity walls must NOT be bridged with insulation or else moisture from the damp outer walls will transmit by capillary action through the touching bridging insulation into the inner walls, making it damp inside the property. Injecting foam into the cavity walls stops the walls breathing , causing drastic condensation saturation of the inner walls inside the building. Cavity wall insulation must touch only the inner walls inside the cavity of course. If cavity wall insulation batts(panels) are to be installed, there must be a LARGE air space gap in-between the outer walls and the cavity wall insulation batts inside the cavity, this includes a substantial air space gap in-between the cavity wall insulation batts and the cavity wall tie drip point(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers in person for proof of this, tey are the authority on brickwork construction. (S.V.Q. City & Guilds BRICKWORK in Scotland).
I'll ask a verbal question, if required I can forward images or video if required. So, in the last couple of years we have been living with freshly installed double glazing and our front and rear doors upgraded too. The main issue is a large build up, we're talking a puddle here - if water on the base frame areas. Also very obvious signs of damp/mold. Now, we're not idiots, we totally understand that better sealing up of the property can result in differences in atmospheric reaction. So, if the property is vented, maintained, fresh enough double glazing all round, heating is not 24/7 ... Only used as per shivering requirements. What could possibly causing this? My front door and son's room are on the same corner and at the front of the house. (Most exposed) ... Can anyone poke some suggestions or requests for further information. We're in Northern Ireland by the way, so not a completely different build.
It’s a mistake back fill external trench (French Drain) back up to the level of the raised ground. This stops the wall breathing and as time goes on the material becomes clogged with soil and debris. Keep the shingle below the level of the doc.
Hi Rafal, Excellent video. I wondered if you might be able to help with some advice. We have 1930's solid wall semi. We have a 2.5 foot space below the lounge floor (suspended floor) which I carefully insulated with a breathable material with plastic type cover on it. I also covered most external walls with a 3mm thick thermal wall covering and did some plaster repairs just above the skirting before wallpapering. On one side of the lounge we had an external outhouse (Under the stairs) which I bricked up and made accessible via a door from the lounge (An under stairs room). The problem is that several years later that we have the bottom areas of plaster (Possibly where I applied new stuff) bulging through the wallpaper in the lounge all round. Additionally on the internal wall that separates the lounge from the new under stairs room have white deposits that look and smell like a damp issue. The insulation under the wooden lounge floor does get condensation in it which must drip onto the floor which is often naturally wet when it rains as it a lot lower than floor level. The air bricks are not blocked. Do you think a new damp proof course is required (I've seen than you can now buy a product where you drill the wall and slide sticks into the holes that eventually seep into the blue bricks creating a new damp protection. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Hi Tone's tones, I might answer your question. I understand wall in question is external wall without cavity. First, you would have to establish position and condition of damp proof course, often easily seen from outside. On houses that were built in last 50-80 years ago damp proof course would be in same height as finished floor level. On older houses with solid walls, damp proof course is often in line with underside of the floor joist plate, about 2 brick courses below finished floor. Once you established position of damp proof course externally make sure that ground level is lower than damp proof, ideally 6 in. Also check for any detoriation of brick pointing or cracks or leaky gutters. In case if DPC (damp proof course) is perished or breached it has to be repaired. Easiest way to repair DPC would be by injecting silicone based solution. After that, internally, you have to remove and replace all efflorescent salt contaminated plaster. These salts are mineral salts naturally found in brick and mortar and during dump these salts migrate to surface of the plaster contaminating it. If contaminated plaster is not removed then efflorescent salts will attract airborne moisture I hope it helps All the best👍
Excellent video! All the information in one video! Can I ask - we have damp inside our basement - the outside wall is in a very shaded and damp area with steps running down the side of that outside wall - it is always covered in green moss - Im assuming the water is penetrating through the outside brickwork and into the internal wall causing the damp???? You say treat at the source which is good advice - Ive had a quote from a damp company for over £10,000!!!!
What is your verdict on PIV? (Positive Input Ventilation) I have a damp issue and the specialist recommended me to install this in my property. I’m very sceptical as I don’t know anyone who has installed one. I don’t see how 1 single vent in my landing ceiling is going to increase the ventilation throughout the house
Hi, I have a problem with rain water getting in an internal wall under a chimney breast. The top of the chimney breast has been removed and the roof is not letting in water. I’m totally confused as to where the water is coming from??? Any ideas?
Hey Ali! Thanks for the comment. There are a lot of local authority properties that are poorly built, maintained and not looked after by their occupiers which often contribute to the problem. I think it would be commercially viable to demolish the worst buildings than to constantly pump money into the poor maintenance, but then many other factors need to be considered, such as rehousing the occupants, money, politics etc. That's a whole new topic in itself!
@@RWProperty rehousing those who earn an average wage its a poverty trap as the new builds today are poorly built with rent sky high ask someone you'll have dozens of people complaining about their new build , part of my job is to visit property's . The problem in the uk is the council homes have stopped being built and the council sell the land to private investors they call it social housing
I just moved into a council property flat, I have done a mutual exchange ,exchange process lasted 7 months the reason is that they all excuses corona virus blah blah blah. When I had a view of this property last year 7 months before I moved here they hidden away from me to see the dump all over the wall's. Council reports says everything is in a good condition blah blah blah blah whatever they pointed out turned out to be false,the problem is I'm unemployed not a young man and have no finance to rent a place that has no dump. I was conned by the previous tenant And a council. After I made a complaint to councils repair department they sent a gentleman from a dump surveyor company, he came around and found dampness on the dangerous levels, He asked me to contact with council so they can arrange an emergency electrician to sort out the sockets, the surveyor gentleman also mentioned that he would send an Email to my council to arise the damp issues so after 3 weeks finally I received an email from my council regards to the surveyor gentleman,s report council Emails indicates that they would arrange a company to come and sort out the damp issues, I'm still waiting to hear from them..
Do dehumifers and air purfier both kill mold spores and mold I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers and I have plug in air purfier also do they both work and are they both worth using
Hey Tara, i can't say for certain whether air purifiers work, but I have read some reviews about them and that they help reduce the mold spores in the air, but I couldn't back that up since I don't know too much about them. You would have to go by what it says on the tin. Dehumidifiers will of course help reduce the air moisture content in a room and therefore help with any condensation issues, like steamed up windows. I have a dehumidifier in my bedroom and it helps. My house isn't very insulated, so the walls get very cold at night, so when theres high moisture levels, we sometimes get damp spots behind cupboards/ furniture in general. If you don't have much natural ventilation, which is of course harder in winter months (you can't have your windows open all the time - unless you like the cold!), then I would say dehumidifiers help with internal conditions that affect damp. Less damp will of course mean less chance of mold and spores getting into the air. Try and keep your rooms well vented if possible. Hope that helps! 😊👍🏻
@@RWProperty hi thanks that helped I open window in morning and wipe down condestation when I see it on windows and I open my bedroom door are small dehumifers ok to use and are they effective in reducing mold
@@taramiller70 i've purchased ebac dehumidifier(£260ish) placed on landing its fantastic it pulls about 2 litres a day and turns off at about 55% no wet walls the little dehumidifiers are ok for cupboards.👍
Hey Binto, thanks for the question, and happy new year! Yes absolutely, there's usually no problem with buying a house that has pebble dash render. It is quite common in 1920's and 30's houses across England. Pebble dash is commonly used on solid brick wall construction (walls that have no cavity), so maintaining pebble dash will be an ongoing thing. You'll need to make sure any cracks that appear are filled/ repaired because water can seep through and then appear internally as damp. Also if its painted, you'll want to make sure it's painted every 4-5 years to keep it clean and sealed 👍🏻 hope that helps!
@@RWProperty are you based in Birmingham? Only learnt it from your video today its called pebble dash. Thanks. Also I have some water under floorboards when we lifted it to get underfloor insulation. What do you think is it leak or damp?
Hey Oliver, thanks for the question! It is difficult to say without seeing the issue and would massively depend on several factors. For example, if the concrete window ledge is covering a cavity wall and it is not set in properly or sealed, cold air could be getting into the cavity wall creating a cold spot below the window. Alternatively, if the ledge doesn't disperse water correctly and it constantly flows onto the wall below the window, it could erode the masonry/ mortar joints beneath creating a cold spot. This would be something a specialist would need to look into to be able to diagnose properly.
I have obvious rising and penetrating damp and the housing association seem to think cleaning my trickle vents will fix it.... The fucking concrete floor is bulging and the carpet is wet.
Doesn’t help that the trade sector is awash with cowboys looking to make big bucks from unsuspecting and uninformed homeowners. I showed my internal damp problem to three different cowboys and got theee different reasons, three different prices and timescales for remedy. Rip off Britain all over.
Hey Everyone, hope you've enjoyed the video and maybe even learnt something new 🙏🏻. If you had any damp related questions, put them down in the comments below 👇🏻 and I'll try to answer to the best of my knowledge
Hi there, brilliantly clear and useful video, thank you.
Best and most informative video Ive ever seen on damp issues!
I admit I thought here we go again!!. Someone with some knowledge or experience with damp for good or bad reason and going to share their opinion on damp.. But you explained it in great detail and explained the difference in damp ...great video. I will be sharing this video with clients . It's also good that you're not claiming to be a damp expert and then the client can see that what we are telling them isn't a sales pitch..
Hey Leigh, thank you so much for the comment! I really appreciate it 🙏🏻 I tried to provide some value in my explanations, and as you mentioned it's definitely not a sales pitch. I've lived through all types of damp in the past and I know how frustrating it can be, especially when you want to get rid of it, but you don't know where to begin.
If you could share with clients that would mean a lot to me. I want to educate/inform people about these kinds of topics and hopefully provide some insight based on experience.
All the best!
I lived in England for the first 22 years of my life and understand what older homes are like there, I remember the open fireplace when I was little. That brings us to the main problem there today for high humidity levels in British homes, lack of air flow and ventilation.
In Canada we do not have this problem so much, in the winter the outside air is colder and a lot dryer. Most Canadian homes have forced air heat, which mean’s indoor air is heated then blown to the extremities of the home and recirculated. So we have no standing air in the house.
In Britain especially now with the energy prices everyone is trying to seal up their home’s, thus no airflow. I think the best thing to use is a powered dehumidifier to bring down the humidity levels and make the home seem warmer and more comfortable. Also adding fans to circulate the air in the house will help.
Running a powered dehumidifier will pump out dryer warm air, but it may take weeks to help dry out a home and then maintain it.
If wall is cracked it is a big dehumidifier then. Dehumidifier won't help. Walls will be always wet in winter
Very good video and good advice. As someone who has experienced damp issues in our previous property and the many damp proofing cowboys, I totally agree that you need to to treat the cause and mask it from inside. Often damp at the bottom of external facing walls is caused by high ground levels outside.
Really good video. Thank you
Thank you so much for the feedback!
Really useful video, thank you! Keep up the great content :)
Hey Annie! Thank you so much for the comment :D Really appreciate the feedback
Very interesting video good stuff clear to understand
Thank you Stuart! 😁🙏🏻 Really appreciate the nice comment
Thanks very helpful
Had to come back and mention it. That first sip of coffee. Made me skip you video.
Found this by accident but was really informative as I get damp problems. Other vids look interesting. Subbed.
Hey Le Broc, Many thanks for the feedback, and really appreciate the Sub! :D
Great video thank you ! Could you please do a video on all the work required to treat damp like will you have to replasttrr all walls etc
Your name is Wall Check!? That's wonderful nominative determinism.
I really appreciate you having made this video. I just spotted a suspected area of damp on my property today, so it's good to have a better understanding of the causes. Can you advise on what kind of trades person you would call out to assist with thus problem? Thanks.
Had to try multiple people to reduce the different internal damp signs. Got dehumidifier, fixed outside guttering that was dripping onto the external walls, repointed any mortar on walls that was easily falling out by moving over with it with a pen, or finger. Used checkatrade as a start and got a few quotes, checked going rates reviews.
Damp is caused by the cavity walls being bridged with insulation(insulation touching the outer walls inside the cavity).Cavity walls must NOT be bridged with insulation or else moisture from the damp outer walls will transmit by capillary action through the touching bridging insulation into the inner walls, making it damp inside the property. Injecting foam into the cavity walls stops the walls breathing , causing drastic condensation saturation of the inner walls inside the building.
Cavity wall insulation must touch only the inner walls inside the cavity of course.
If cavity wall insulation batts(panels) are to be installed, there must be a LARGE air space gap in-between the outer walls and the cavity wall insulation batts inside the cavity, this includes a substantial air space gap in-between the cavity wall insulation batts and the cavity wall tie drip point(which must point downwards in the centre of the cavity). Ask City & Guilds N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers in person for proof of this, tey are the authority on brickwork construction. (S.V.Q. City & Guilds BRICKWORK in Scotland).
I'll ask a verbal question, if required I can forward images or video if required. So, in the last couple of years we have been living with freshly installed double glazing and our front and rear doors upgraded too. The main issue is a large build up, we're talking a puddle here - if water on the base frame areas. Also very obvious signs of damp/mold. Now, we're not idiots, we totally understand that better sealing up of the property can result in differences in atmospheric reaction. So, if the property is vented, maintained, fresh enough double glazing all round, heating is not 24/7 ... Only used as per shivering requirements. What could possibly causing this? My front door and son's room are on the same corner and at the front of the house. (Most exposed) ... Can anyone poke some suggestions or requests for further information. We're in Northern Ireland by the way, so not a completely different build.
It’s a mistake back fill external trench (French Drain) back up to the level of the raised ground. This stops the wall breathing and as time goes on the material becomes clogged with soil and debris. Keep the shingle below the level of the doc.
Hi Rafal, Excellent video. I wondered if you might be able to help with some advice. We have 1930's solid wall semi. We have a 2.5 foot space below the lounge floor (suspended floor) which I carefully insulated with a breathable material with plastic type cover on it. I also covered most external walls with a 3mm thick thermal wall covering and did some plaster repairs just above the skirting before wallpapering. On one side of the lounge we had an external outhouse (Under the stairs) which I bricked up and made accessible via a door from the lounge (An under stairs room). The problem is that several years later that we have the bottom areas of plaster (Possibly where I applied new stuff) bulging through the wallpaper in the lounge all round. Additionally on the internal wall that separates the lounge from the new under stairs room have white deposits that look and smell like a damp issue. The insulation under the wooden lounge floor does get condensation in it which must drip onto the floor which is often naturally wet when it rains as it a lot lower than floor level. The air bricks are not blocked. Do you think a new damp proof course is required (I've seen than you can now buy a product where you drill the wall and slide sticks into the holes that eventually seep into the blue bricks creating a new damp protection. Any advice would be most appreciated.
Hi Tone's tones, I might answer your question.
I understand wall in question is external wall without cavity.
First, you would have to establish position and condition of damp proof course, often easily seen from outside. On houses that were built in last 50-80 years ago damp proof course would be in same height as finished floor level. On older houses with solid walls, damp proof course is often in line with underside of the floor joist plate, about 2 brick courses below finished floor.
Once you established position of damp proof course externally make sure that ground level is lower than damp proof, ideally 6 in. Also check for any detoriation of brick pointing or cracks or leaky gutters.
In case if DPC (damp proof course) is perished or breached it has to be repaired. Easiest way to repair DPC would be by injecting silicone based solution.
After that, internally, you have to remove and replace all efflorescent salt contaminated plaster. These salts are mineral salts naturally found in brick and mortar and during dump these salts migrate to surface of the plaster contaminating it. If contaminated plaster is not removed then efflorescent salts will attract airborne moisture
I hope it helps
All the best👍
Brilliant
Excellent video! All the information in one video! Can I ask - we have damp inside our basement - the outside wall is in a very shaded and damp area with steps running down the side of that outside wall - it is always covered in green moss - Im assuming the water is penetrating through the outside brickwork and into the internal wall causing the damp???? You say treat at the source which is good advice - Ive had a quote from a damp company for over £10,000!!!!
Hey some walls in the house are wet how can I dry the walls
What is your verdict on PIV? (Positive Input Ventilation)
I have a damp issue and the specialist recommended me to install this in my property. I’m very sceptical as I don’t know anyone who has installed one. I don’t see how 1 single vent in my landing ceiling is going to increase the ventilation throughout the house
Hi,
I have a problem with rain water getting in an internal wall under a chimney breast. The top of the chimney breast has been removed and the roof is not letting in water. I’m totally confused as to where the water is coming from???
Any ideas?
every single council home has damp and mold these property's should be demolished
Hey Ali! Thanks for the comment. There are a lot of local authority properties that are poorly built, maintained and not looked after by their occupiers which often contribute to the problem. I think it would be commercially viable to demolish the worst buildings than to constantly pump money into the poor maintenance, but then many other factors need to be considered, such as rehousing the occupants, money, politics etc. That's a whole new topic in itself!
@@RWProperty rehousing those who earn an average wage its a poverty trap as the new builds today are poorly built with rent sky high ask someone you'll have dozens of people complaining about their new build , part of my job is to visit property's . The problem in the uk is the council homes have stopped being built and the council sell the land to private investors they call it social housing
I just moved into a council property flat, I have done a mutual exchange ,exchange process lasted 7 months the reason is that they all excuses corona virus blah blah blah.
When I had a view of this property last year 7 months before I moved here they hidden away from me to see the dump all over the wall's.
Council reports says everything is in a good condition blah blah blah blah whatever they pointed out turned out to be false,the problem is I'm unemployed not a young man and have no finance to rent a place that has no dump.
I was conned by the previous tenant And a council.
After I made a complaint to councils repair department they sent a gentleman from a dump surveyor company, he came around and found dampness on the dangerous levels,
He asked me to contact with council so they can arrange an emergency electrician to sort out the sockets, the surveyor gentleman also mentioned that he would send an Email to my council to arise the damp issues so after 3 weeks finally I received an email from my council regards to the surveyor gentleman,s report council Emails indicates that they would arrange a company to come and sort out the damp issues, I'm still waiting to hear from them..
Do dehumifers and air purfier both kill mold spores and mold I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers and I have plug in air purfier also do they both work and are they both worth using
Hey Tara, i can't say for certain whether air purifiers work, but I have read some reviews about them and that they help reduce the mold spores in the air, but I couldn't back that up since I don't know too much about them. You would have to go by what it says on the tin.
Dehumidifiers will of course help reduce the air moisture content in a room and therefore help with any condensation issues, like steamed up windows. I have a dehumidifier in my bedroom and it helps. My house isn't very insulated, so the walls get very cold at night, so when theres high moisture levels, we sometimes get damp spots behind cupboards/ furniture in general.
If you don't have much natural ventilation, which is of course harder in winter months (you can't have your windows open all the time - unless you like the cold!), then I would say dehumidifiers help with internal conditions that affect damp. Less damp will of course mean less chance of mold and spores getting into the air.
Try and keep your rooms well vented if possible.
Hope that helps! 😊👍🏻
@@RWProperty hi thanks that helped I open window in morning and wipe down condestation when I see it on windows and I open my bedroom door are small dehumifers ok to use and are they effective in reducing mold
@@taramiller70 i've purchased ebac dehumidifier(£260ish) placed on landing its fantastic it pulls about 2 litres a day and turns off at about 55% no wet walls the little dehumidifiers are ok for cupboards.👍
Hi can this cause sulphur problem in the house and how can that be treated
Is it ok to buy a house with pebble dash from 1920s?
Hey Binto, thanks for the question, and happy new year! Yes absolutely, there's usually no problem with buying a house that has pebble dash render. It is quite common in 1920's and 30's houses across England. Pebble dash is commonly used on solid brick wall construction (walls that have no cavity), so maintaining pebble dash will be an ongoing thing. You'll need to make sure any cracks that appear are filled/ repaired because water can seep through and then appear internally as damp. Also if its painted, you'll want to make sure it's painted every 4-5 years to keep it clean and sealed 👍🏻 hope that helps!
@@RWProperty are you based in Birmingham? Only learnt it from your video today its called pebble dash. Thanks. Also I have some water under floorboards when we lifted it to get underfloor insulation. What do you think is it leak or damp?
is it possible for a external stone/ concrete window ledge, cause a cold wall below a window which can sometimes be wet
Hey Oliver, thanks for the question! It is difficult to say without seeing the issue and would massively depend on several factors. For example, if the concrete window ledge is covering a cavity wall and it is not set in properly or sealed, cold air could be getting into the cavity wall creating a cold spot below the window. Alternatively, if the ledge doesn't disperse water correctly and it constantly flows onto the wall below the window, it could erode the masonry/ mortar joints beneath creating a cold spot. This would be something a specialist would need to look into to be able to diagnose properly.
I have obvious rising and penetrating damp and the housing association seem to think cleaning my trickle vents will fix it.... The fucking concrete floor is bulging and the carpet is wet.
Omg that's England in a nutshell
why is there 'music' going on in the background, do you think it helps?
Doesn’t help that the trade sector is awash with cowboys looking to make big bucks from unsuspecting and uninformed homeowners. I showed my internal damp problem to three different cowboys and got theee different reasons, three different prices and timescales for remedy. Rip off Britain all over.
Great vid but need to control those hands mate, really distracting lol
Hey MiniMak, Thanks for the feedback! Someone else mentioned the same thing. I'm definitely working on it. xD!
Your constant hand movements are distracting?
your hand movements don't look natural at all