As of today June 7th, 2024, out of more than 10 ND filter videos I've watched, yours is the BEST. It's because you are the ONLY PERSON who demonstrates how to use vector scope to ACCURATELY and objectively detect color shift. I love it when you state this video is sponsored by NiSi. Thank Jeven for your HONESTY & such a practical video.
i mean, you can always correct your footage with free plugins that read the color chart. "oh but that takes time" yeah, people also shoot log unnecessarily and spend hours "grading" footage that didn't even need to be graded. but, you know, sponsor money talks.
83hjf could you explain further or share what you mean by or examples of shooting log unnecessarily and “grading” footage that didn’t need to be graded.
@@AndrewThiriot sure. if you're recording a vlog for example. just record normally. if you shoot log, then you necessarily need to grade the footage to make it look good. and sometimes all they do is grade it back to "normal".... which you could have done by just recording with a normal profile in your camera, instead of shooting log and then waste time grading. grading is for special things you want to look special. but a lot of people have the impression that you "must" shoot log and grade for your things to be "professional".
Visually seeing the difference on camera between filters AND having software to relate to for comparison for the color shift is key. Thanks for the info, as always.
Hello, you do a great job explaining your content. It is a lot to take in for a novice like me, but I am getting it. Your content is very important to UA-camrs like me who want to get better footage. I want to "Thank you" for your efforts as I am learning a lot. Please continue your great work. Thanks again Jeven
What jf I put the black mist on the lens and the ND+CPL on the black mist ? Would this be a mess? Can I use a fix ND64 6stops on my Sony 24-105mm Lens? Or would this male everything less Sharp and less bright?
so when you say double the shutter speed with regards to frame rate ( 24 fps 1/50ss, 30 fps 1/60ss, 60fps 1/120ss. 120fps 1/250ss ). Seems to me that these are the only options for shutter speed. Is that correct?
These VND filters are made from two polarizing filters which rotate against each other to vary the brightness. As you know, all polarizers will cause color shift in certain lighting and scenes. What you should do after setting the VND to the desired brightness is to loosen it on the lens thread, rotating the whole filter until you get the most pleasing colors. They do make VND+CPL filters which allow you to do exactly this without loosening the lens threads. The VND by its very nature is a polarizing filter, so you should rotate it rather than leave it in whatever random position it ended up in when it was tightened onto the lens.
I read that some VND don't give the effect of polarizing, such as the SLR Magic MK II Variable Neutral Density (ND) Filter - 0.4 to 1.8 (2.3 to 6 Stops)
@@thuytrinhnguyen8497 They basically put a quarter-wave plate on the front for circular polarization to minimize the polarizing effect, then pass the light through the crossed polarizers, followed by another quarter-wave plate to re-circularize the polarization so as not to mess up the optics in SLR cameras.
On a Sony ax53 I find a variable nd filter causes a lack of sharpness at full zoom, unless I use no stability or standard stabiliser which stops clear image zoom from activating. It seems clear image zoom does something to the focusingvthat and filter upsets.
I like how you show the color changing effect. Unfortunately, all these filters are prohibitively expensive for a beginner videographer. Can you recommend cheap, good LD filters?
this kind of effect can be easily simulated in post, and you don't need to bake-in the look. NDs and Polarizer are pretty much the only kind of filters you need. "effect" filters were needed in the film era, most effects can be replicated in post.
Personally, I thought the clip where he had the Black Mist applied made the footage look terribly dull. Ok, you achieve a glow round the lights, but everything else was blurred and the overall image was all the worse for it.
06:03 - Hmmm, I think I haven't seen a single video till date about ND filters where the creator hasn't mistakenly used the word "lens" for "filter" for even once throughout the video. "Lens" somehow just stays on the tip of the toungue of every creator, and that's totally understandable.
I’m new to ND filters , but I’ve purchased a Kenko ND filter and it looks good BUT I get a vignette shadow in my picture. Is there anyway I can remove that??
Sure wish I saw your video before I pulled the trigger on the PolarPro ND filters. I’m buying the Sony FX3 for gimbal work and the camera doesn’t have ND’s like my FX6 which is why I wanted to buy ND’s and I like the matte box set with ND filters from PolarPro but I had no idea it was going to change my color to a warmer look. The filters are arriving soon so I might be sending back since I would like to keep the natural look of the camera. Valuable review for sure, many thanks.
Q Jeven: I do some DRONE real estate videos and don’t really care about “motion blur”. But if I shoot at 30fps with a 1/60 shutter speed, the footage comes out too bright…exposure is not good. So I often use an ND just to get the exposure right. Should I be using a polarizer instead? Thanks.
@@JevenDovey Thanks! Great to know. I haven’t heard this from anyone else. Everyone says always shoot with 180 degree rule. I have a warehouse shoot today. I’m going to take your advise and see how it goes. This is why I love your channel. You give great practical advise. Happy New Year, Jeven.
The double frame rate rule is only for getting cinematic motion blur or standard motion blur. If you don't care about motion blur then that rule doesn't apply
I've recently bought my first filter: a ND64. It has quite a strong warm cast. I use Reeflex Camera on my iphone12pm. I find if I get an auto white balance temp without a filter and the use that temp with the ND filter I get a good result with everything else being on auto.
Where was this vid a year ago? I did a multi cam shoot and kept my Tiffen vnd on…oops. Ended up having to pay a colorist to fix it. I love that it has that little bar so you can feel where you are in the range plus that doubler is pretty sweet. Of course internal nd is always better but yeah, I’d bet they also shift.
Great explaination! I've watched a lot on ND and still understanding their function and placement. Also never thought of setting my shutter speed on vlog style clips but I see the importance now with motion blur.
Hey Jeven what are best ND filters for phones, especially ND filters for long exposure fotos(who makes best ND filters)? How to use them with phone etc...? Can you make video about that please😊
He Jeven, interesting video. I was wondering if you can advice me about buying a nd filter. Should it be bigger than the camera lens or not. Ive heard you can see dark edges on your camera or something. Can you maybe clarify me some bit about it or anyone in the comments?
If that happens you need a bigger VND for the lens and use a step up ring. For my 20mm its a 67mm on the front but I use a 72mm VND when filming with it.
Hello Jeven, great video as usual! I'm wondering what about ease of use o focus. I guess till 4 or 5 no problem at all, but once you put the "extension"? Do you normally focus and then put the second filter? And if choosing to manual focus, do you are still able to see the peaking or see bright enough to focus? Thanks
Can some PLEASE explain… why not lower the ISO for free and still be able to use a lens hood and cap??? I cant find a single answer on the entire internet for this question surprisingly
Because it reduces the dynamic range of the camera. For example, on the Fuji xh2-s the base iso is ~1200 for flog2 and cannot be reduced further. Alternatively, I could shoot not in flog2 at lower iso, but you'll see the dynamic range compress (in the histogram) as you lower the ISO. If all the DR isn't needed and depending on the camera, lowering the ISO is a feasible solution though.
Because at 1/50 of a second, the light may be too bright outdoors to get an exposure, depending on the camera you're using. At 1/50s and ISO 100, your aperture will be about f/22 in bright sunlight. F/32 if your camera's lowest ISO is 200, as is the case with one of mine. VNDs are typically used to reduce depth of field to give a more cinematic effect by facilitating the use of wider apertures. They also make it easier to maintain the same aperture and depth of field when shooting shot-reverse shot coverage.
Thanks for your videos. I have learnt quite a lot from you, and I'm applying some of the advices you gave in the drone footage videos I'm starting to upload. Thanks!
Tbh this is most probably the most useful video about ND filters and the color checker was the main reason. Having said that it would have been informative to have mentioned which filters were used. Paused at 2:36 and they were 1-5 and 4 stops (1.2)? Very convenient that NISI has that swift system VND kits.
You left out a bunch of details like the 180 degree rule and shutter speed and how you need to use an ND filter if you want to have say 24 fps with the proper shutter speed according to the 180 degree shutter rule. This video doesn’t seem aimed at beginners because no proper details/examples are given and it doesn’t seem aimed at experienced users because the way you explain things in your video seems they are things they would already know.
Great video. I have recently started shooting video but have been taking still photos for about 45 years! I frequently use ND filters, polarisers and grads, etc for stills (mostly Lee filters). I have bought some variable ND filters for my new venture into shooting video footage. I also use both the Xrite color passport photo and video as a starting point for colour grading. My question is a fairly simple one but I have not see anyone cover it. As an example, I was taking some video footage of my grandson during a woodland walk a few weeks ago. As is typical in the UK during the spring the lightning was quite variable. I set the ND to match the exposure at the start of shooting a sequence and 10 seconds later the sun appeared from behind a cloud requiring a completely different exposure. The stones on the ground were completely burnt out. This is also an issue when I'm shooting with my drone. I don't want to bring it back and change the ND every time the light changes. I am guessing that using auto ISO might help a little bit as you say in your video that has noise implications. You advise would be very welcomed.
I knew the Canon R6 had a slight yellow shift, prepared with the moment variable ND filters, I'm just making it worse. And I just bought a six to nine stop moment VND 2 weeks ago... Learned about the NiSi true color about a week after that ugh!
Thanks for sharing! And also for showing the comparisons with the different NDs. One thing I was curious - for the test with the different NDs did you use the same white balance (for example Daylight), or was it left to Auto? Thanks!
Actually... You don't really need ND filters in %95 of conditions. In order to see the motion blur there needs to be crazy motion. Most youtubers are trying to sell the filters for commissions.. And people think it is a must :) Even for client work.. There needs to be serious motion to see the difference. Sorry Jeven.. I've already seen your video about nd filters for drones and you also said there it is not that much needed :) And for the color cast... You can always white balance after the filter and noone will see the difference.. sorry Nisi :)
I bought a set of ND filters for my Mini 3 Pro from Freewell and although the color looks accurate, they seem to increase the contrast on the image which I have to dial back in post. Do you find the increase in contrast from ND filters yourself?
Can we stop calling it “cinematic” and start calling it “realistic”. After all, most film makers use f4 for a majority of scenes and reserve lower f stops for B roll.
In my opinion it's a bad advice to say that you should use shutter speed that is double of your frame rate, for many reasons. If you stand on side of a road and shoot passing cars that drive 40 mph your footage will be screwed if you use 1/60 second shutter speed at 30 fps. It is a way too slow shutter speed for that situation. Also if you shoot at 60 fps and you are not going to make it slow motion then you should usually use shutter speed of 1/60 second (not double of your frame rate). But for fast moving scenes you should use a faster shutter speed. It's about time to stop spreading that "double of your frame rate" myth! There is so many exceptions
I think, it advise is for beginners. As for me this rule was super helpful, because I was taking picture for decades. Any photographer knows shorter shutter speed- is usually better. And first few month I couldn't understood why my videos were "shaking".
@@arctic_floyd it's still a bad advice. A better one would be something that advices to use 1/50 or 1/60 second shutter speed for most occasions. If you shoot at 30 fps you should still mostly use 1/50 second shutter speed (in North America and some other placies 1/60 is better if there are artificial lights that can flicker)
No, it is sound advice. Cinema cameras are so sure about this that they use degrees instead of shutter speed. Typically you stay at 180 degrees. If you need more light and the action is slow then you adjust one way or, alternatively, if you need faster shutter for fx or to video cars driving by then you adjust the other way.
@@HikingWithCooper Search for "Gerald Undone motion blur" here on UA-cam and watch the video. I'm sure you will change your mind. Cinema cameras has the shutter angle option and it is generally good because if someone shoots in 60 fps or higher frame rate it is most often used for slow motion. So using 180 degree shutter angle is a good default
There are exceptions to 180 degree rule, but 1/100-1/120 shutter for 50-60fps timelines is a good default. It's a balance between blurriness of 1/60 second shutter and stop-motion effect of 1/250 shutter. Some scenes will look better at 1/250 or even faster shutter (for example, sports or fast dancing movements) and some - at 1/60. Slow movements will look buttery smooth at 1/60, but it also will produce unwanted excessive blur when you are panning for example. Motion blur helps to 'read' motion, but it also destroys details on moving objects, so it's always a tradeoff. 1/120 is a middle ground that will be OK in most cases.
Great content but this is really a paid product promo no? You should really explain that it is a duel polarisation filter and not a true ND. Polarisation filters do not look good and are not NDs even if they "appear" to do the same job. Do not buy this unless you know the difference
I hate motion blur, I want to be able to grab a frame from videos and see what is going on. Hate the bloom effect that the mist gives too. I want to see the profile of things, not some artificial shaped light. The human element to design needs to be seen. I guess that's why different people see things differently. You can be michael bay and JJ, Ill be George and Steven.
Depends on the situation. 180 rule for 24/25/30 but 360 rule for 60/50 if youre delivering in 60/50 but if you’re slowing down 60/50 on a 24/25/30 timeline then you’ll want to stick to the 180 rule
I always use the 180 shutter rule but have realized that you actually can get away with it being faster. And actually you want it to be faster in some cases e.g. action scenes
I had to stop watching at the image of you holding the color chart. You forced us all as viewers to pause and figure out you aren't holding them in the same orientation for a quick comparison.
Why do all Americans speak in this odd, staccato fashion? You sound like you are constantly out of breath, it makes your speech very distracting. Try to relax, take a deep breath and enjoy language, it should flow, just like you are trying to do with the video.. great content
Overused "that cinematic look", repetition, it sounds distracting and iritating, instead of saying outright what is the benfit of ND filter, like they guy in video doesn't really know what he talks about or have bought a random thingie from a shop and tries to describe without propper education on the matter. Maybe he knows, but tries to explain in a simplified way, but it's almost unbearably amateurish.
As of today June 7th, 2024, out of more than 10 ND filter videos I've watched, yours is the BEST. It's because you are the ONLY PERSON who demonstrates how to use vector scope to ACCURATELY and objectively detect color shift. I love it when you state this video is sponsored by NiSi. Thank Jeven for your HONESTY & such a practical video.
i mean, you can always correct your footage with free plugins that read the color chart. "oh but that takes time" yeah, people also shoot log unnecessarily and spend hours "grading" footage that didn't even need to be graded. but, you know, sponsor money talks.
83hjf could you explain further or share what you mean by or examples of shooting log unnecessarily and “grading” footage that didn’t need to be graded.
@@AndrewThiriot sure. if you're recording a vlog for example. just record normally. if you shoot log, then you necessarily need to grade the footage to make it look good. and sometimes all they do is grade it back to "normal".... which you could have done by just recording with a normal profile in your camera, instead of shooting log and then waste time grading. grading is for special things you want to look special. but a lot of people have the impression that you "must" shoot log and grade for your things to be "professional".
@@83hjf Thanks.
I agree with you..
Jajaja oh yeah
Visually seeing the difference on camera between filters AND having software to relate to for comparison for the color shift is key. Thanks for the info, as always.
3:38 sounds like me 😅😅😅 Trying to learn how to shoot manually to make my videos visually more appealing.
Jeven, thanks for the video. We wish you to cross the 1M subscribers mark as soon as possible
IKR? Why isn't @Jeven >1M? I watch his videos way more than many of the >1M creators (many of whom I find annoying). Jeven is very down to Earth.
Such an awesome and well done video!! Thanks os much... the practical examples make such a difference!!!
Hello, you do a great job explaining your content. It is a lot to take in for a novice like me, but I am getting it. Your content is very important to UA-camrs like me who want to get better footage. I want to "Thank you" for your efforts as I am learning a lot. Please continue your great work. Thanks again Jeven
What jf I put the black mist on the lens and the ND+CPL on the black mist ? Would this be a mess?
Can I use a fix ND64 6stops on my Sony 24-105mm Lens? Or would this male everything less Sharp and less bright?
so when you say double the shutter speed with regards to frame rate ( 24 fps 1/50ss, 30 fps 1/60ss, 60fps 1/120ss. 120fps 1/250ss ). Seems to me that these are the only options for shutter speed. Is that correct?
Is it possible to make up those color shift in post production?
These VND filters are made from two polarizing filters which rotate against each other to vary the brightness. As you know, all polarizers will cause color shift in certain lighting and scenes. What you should do after setting the VND to the desired brightness is to loosen it on the lens thread, rotating the whole filter until you get the most pleasing colors. They do make VND+CPL filters which allow you to do exactly this without loosening the lens threads. The VND by its very nature is a polarizing filter, so you should rotate it rather than leave it in whatever random position it ended up in when it was tightened onto the lens.
I read that some VND don't give the effect of polarizing, such as the SLR Magic MK II Variable Neutral Density (ND) Filter - 0.4 to 1.8 (2.3 to 6 Stops)
@@thuytrinhnguyen8497 They basically put a quarter-wave plate on the front for circular polarization to minimize the polarizing effect, then pass the light through the crossed polarizers, followed by another quarter-wave plate to re-circularize the polarization so as not to mess up the optics in SLR cameras.
@@timothystockman7533 Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
On a Sony ax53 I find a variable nd filter causes a lack of sharpness at full zoom, unless I use no stability or standard stabiliser which stops clear image zoom from activating. It seems clear image zoom does something to the focusingvthat and filter upsets.
What about when ur using an nd filter but every now and then the sun keeps coming out and in which changes the lighting condition..?
Booyah finally a great convenient and efficient system that actually does what it claims! Cheers so much JV, love your work 😊
wouldn't setting your white balance with the filter on correct the color issue??
Is it possible to use lens hood with the Nisi filter. I assume not because of the small protruding lever to move the ND settings.
No lens hood
I like how you show the color changing effect. Unfortunately, all these filters are prohibitively expensive for a beginner videographer. Can you recommend cheap, good LD filters?
I wish they made a 1/8 black mist for the swift system
1/4 just too much for me
this kind of effect can be easily simulated in post, and you don't need to bake-in the look. NDs and Polarizer are pretty much the only kind of filters you need. "effect" filters were needed in the film era, most effects can be replicated in post.
Personally, I thought the clip where he had the Black Mist applied made the footage look terribly dull. Ok, you achieve a glow round the lights, but everything else was blurred and the overall image was all the worse for it.
@@83hjf This is nonsense.
What about Haida 2 in 1 cpl-vnd filter for color ?
Do you have the color cast problems too when using an asp-c camera?
Doesn't matter the sensor you're using. Its the glass you're putting in front of your lens
Are ND filters used indoors as well for the same reasons/effects?
06:03 - Hmmm, I think I haven't seen a single video till date about ND filters where the creator hasn't mistakenly used the word "lens" for "filter" for even once throughout the video. "Lens" somehow just stays on the tip of the toungue of every creator, and that's totally understandable.
Hello ☺️ What stop on VND did you use for this bright sunny day on f1.8 and 1/50(1/60) shutter speed ?
wow that moment vnd looks really really nice to my eyes
What shutter speed ratio if I don't want motion blur?
Surprised we didn’t see Peter mickinon vnd!
I’m new to ND filters , but I’ve purchased a Kenko ND filter and it looks good BUT I get a vignette shadow in my picture. Is there anyway I can remove that??
Sure wish I saw your video before I pulled the trigger on the PolarPro ND filters. I’m buying the Sony FX3 for gimbal work and the camera doesn’t have ND’s like my FX6 which is why I wanted to buy ND’s and I like the matte box set with ND filters from PolarPro but I had no idea it was going to change my color to a warmer look. The filters are arriving soon so I might be sending back since I would like to keep the natural look of the camera. Valuable review for sure, many thanks.
F1.8 is the issue. I would use nd and an appetite is 2.8 or 4.
Awsome video Bro!
How do these compare to Peters version with polar pro?
I cant tell the jittery feel hes talking about with the higher shutter speed. Is there a link for a better explanation? or better example?
Watch the opening scenes of private Ryan. They used this technique intentionally
Not an issue with static subjects
Great job, Jeven. Very clear. I was most surprised by the shift in the Polar Pro filter. Thank you.
Q Jeven: I do some DRONE real estate videos and don’t really care about “motion blur”. But if I shoot at 30fps with a 1/60 shutter speed, the footage comes out too bright…exposure is not good. So I often use an ND just to get the exposure right. Should I be using a polarizer instead? Thanks.
If you don’t care about motion blur then shoot at a higher shutter speed to darken your image. A polarizer is only good to reduce reflections
@@JevenDovey Thanks! Great to know. I haven’t heard this from anyone else. Everyone says always shoot with 180 degree rule. I have a warehouse shoot today. I’m going to take your advise and see how it goes. This is why I love your channel. You give great practical advise. Happy New Year, Jeven.
The double frame rate rule is only for getting cinematic motion blur or standard motion blur. If you don't care about motion blur then that rule doesn't apply
The Freewell looked best to my eye
Do you also use NDs or VNDs for vlog style videos? Should I set my ISO or use auto ISO?
I use VND. Auto iso works well
What does motion blur have to do with blurry backgrounds and shutter speed?, that has to do with aperture.
Because changing shutter speed means you have to adjust aperture to correct for exposure
I've recently bought my first filter: a ND64. It has quite a strong warm cast. I use Reeflex Camera on my iphone12pm. I find if I get an auto white balance temp without a filter and the use that temp with the ND filter I get a good result with everything else being on auto.
Nice video!
Where was this vid a year ago? I did a multi cam shoot and kept my Tiffen vnd on…oops. Ended up having to pay a colorist to fix it. I love that it has that little bar so you can feel where you are in the range plus that doubler is pretty sweet. Of course internal nd is always better but yeah, I’d bet they also shift.
Hi Jeven, I'm getting purples with the ND filters of the Insta360 One RS, any idea why?
In your experience, do all these brands have the same shift across their lineup of drone filters as well?
Very useful and helpful video 👍
Greet video and tips. I Use them in mijn mini 3 drone. How do you cope with different lenses and diameters? Is there a thing so they fit on all?
Great explaination! I've watched a lot on ND and still understanding their function and placement. Also never thought of setting my shutter speed on vlog style clips but I see the importance now with motion blur.
Hey Jeven what are best ND filters for phones, especially ND filters for long exposure fotos(who makes best ND filters)? How to use them with phone etc...?
Can you make video about that please😊
He Jeven, interesting video. I was wondering if you can advice me about buying a nd filter. Should it be bigger than the camera lens or not. Ive heard you can see dark edges on your camera or something. Can you maybe clarify me some bit about it or anyone in the comments?
Is a slight darkening in the corners normal with a variable ND.? Just got one and not sure if it’s totally avoidable. I got a K&F 1-9 stops
If that happens you need a bigger VND for the lens and use a step up ring. For my 20mm its a 67mm on the front but I use a 72mm VND when filming with it.
Hello Jeven, great video as usual! I'm wondering what about ease of use o focus. I guess till 4 or 5 no problem at all, but once you put the "extension"? Do you normally focus and then put the second filter? And if choosing to manual focus, do you are still able to see the peaking or see bright enough to focus? Thanks
Thank you for great review. No any vignetting on 16mm? I need it for 15mm@rf15-35mm
You’ll need to buy a bigger size than your filter thread and use a step down ring to avoid vignetting. That’s an issue with any variable ND
Can some PLEASE explain… why not lower the ISO for free and still be able to use a lens hood and cap??? I cant find a single answer on the entire internet for this question surprisingly
Because it reduces the dynamic range of the camera. For example, on the Fuji xh2-s the base iso is ~1200 for flog2 and cannot be reduced further. Alternatively, I could shoot not in flog2 at lower iso, but you'll see the dynamic range compress (in the histogram) as you lower the ISO. If all the DR isn't needed and depending on the camera, lowering the ISO is a feasible solution though.
Because at 1/50 of a second, the light may be too bright outdoors to get an exposure, depending on the camera you're using. At 1/50s and ISO 100, your aperture will be about f/22 in bright sunlight. F/32 if your camera's lowest ISO is 200, as is the case with one of mine. VNDs are typically used to reduce depth of field to give a more cinematic effect by facilitating the use of wider apertures. They also make it easier to maintain the same aperture and depth of field when shooting shot-reverse shot coverage.
Great video and topic, Jeven. I remember hearing Jared Polin say that when you put on ND filters, the white balance should be check again. 🙏🏽
Thanks for your videos. I have learnt quite a lot from you, and I'm applying some of the advices you gave in the drone footage videos I'm starting to upload. Thanks!
Tbh this is most probably the most useful video about ND filters and the color checker was the main reason. Having said that it would have been informative to have mentioned which filters were used.
Paused at 2:36 and they were 1-5 and 4 stops (1.2)? Very convenient that NISI has that swift system VND kits.
So basically this is a commercial for NiSI filters. They will clearly solve your color cast problems.🥴
Do you have any trouble with auto focus using these ND filters?
No
Is it possible to use this on a 55mm filter thread?
Yes. You can use a step up ring
Great video as usual.
Vari nd is not nd. It will always have color cast.
Also comparing the vectorscope here is inaccurate as each shotnhas different lighting :/
You left out a bunch of details like the 180 degree rule and shutter speed and how you need to use an ND filter if you want to have say 24 fps with the proper shutter speed according to the 180 degree shutter rule. This video doesn’t seem aimed at beginners because no proper details/examples are given and it doesn’t seem aimed at experienced users because the way you explain things in your video seems they are things they would already know.
Thanks Jev.
Great video. I have recently started shooting video but have been taking still photos for about 45 years! I frequently use ND filters, polarisers and grads, etc for stills (mostly Lee filters). I have bought some variable ND filters for my new venture into shooting video footage. I also use both the Xrite color passport photo and video as a starting point for colour grading. My question is a fairly simple one but I have not see anyone cover it. As an example, I was taking some video footage of my grandson during a woodland walk a few weeks ago. As is typical in the UK during the spring the lightning was quite variable. I set the ND to match the exposure at the start of shooting a sequence and 10 seconds later the sun appeared from behind a cloud requiring a completely different exposure. The stones on the ground were completely burnt out. This is also an issue when I'm shooting with my drone. I don't want to bring it back and change the ND every time the light changes. I am guessing that using auto ISO might help a little bit as you say in your video that has noise implications. You advise would be very welcomed.
I knew the Canon R6 had a slight yellow shift, prepared with the moment variable ND filters, I'm just making it worse. And I just bought a six to nine stop moment VND 2 weeks ago... Learned about the NiSi true color about a week after that ugh!
i love this guy
Thank you for sharing
Great timing I need a new ND
Need filter for iPhone. Would love to see you make top 5 of filter videos you would buy
Thanks for sharing! And also for showing the comparisons with the different NDs. One thing I was curious - for the test with the different NDs did you use the same white balance (for example Daylight), or was it left to Auto? Thanks!
It was set to the same white balance. Doesn’t work if you leave it to auto because it will try to correct for the shift
@@JevenDovey Nice, thanks for clarifying that
Actually... You don't really need ND filters in %95 of conditions. In order to see the motion blur there needs to be crazy motion. Most youtubers are trying to sell the filters for commissions.. And people think it is a must :) Even for client work.. There needs to be serious motion to see the difference. Sorry Jeven.. I've already seen your video about nd filters for drones and you also said there it is not that much needed :) And for the color cast... You can always white balance after the filter and noone will see the difference.. sorry Nisi :)
Excellence! Thank you!. PS. What kind of camera do you think Fox News is using at the Queen's funeral? In order to get those great wide-angle shots? 😃
Use kolari vision nd’s and never look back. Hands down the best filter
Advertisements are content now? What a time to live in!
That’s called a “sponsorship”
kerja yang bagus kakak.terima kasih banyak sudah berbagi hal indah ini.❤️❤️
1/ 50 f1.4 . 24 fps i get vignetting X . Iso is 100.
I bought a set of ND filters for my Mini 3 Pro from Freewell and although the color looks accurate, they seem to increase the contrast on the image which I have to dial back in post. Do you find the increase in contrast from ND filters yourself?
Nice video
Cool 🤝😎🤟🏼
Can we stop calling it “cinematic” and start calling it “realistic”. After all, most film makers use f4 for a majority of scenes and reserve lower f stops for B roll.
the word "cinematic" attracts clicks from wannabe creators. it's not jeven's fault, but he has to label his stuff like this for people to watch.
I found my focusing off with a VND.
In my opinion it's a bad advice to say that you should use shutter speed that is double of your frame rate, for many reasons. If you stand on side of a road and shoot passing cars that drive 40 mph your footage will be screwed if you use 1/60 second shutter speed at 30 fps. It is a way too slow shutter speed for that situation. Also if you shoot at 60 fps and you are not going to make it slow motion then you should usually use shutter speed of 1/60 second (not double of your frame rate). But for fast moving scenes you should use a faster shutter speed. It's about time to stop spreading that "double of your frame rate" myth! There is so many exceptions
I think, it advise is for beginners. As for me this rule was super helpful, because I was taking picture for decades. Any photographer knows shorter shutter speed- is usually better. And first few month I couldn't understood why my videos were "shaking".
@@arctic_floyd it's still a bad advice. A better one would be something that advices to use 1/50 or 1/60 second shutter speed for most occasions. If you shoot at 30 fps you should still mostly use 1/50 second shutter speed (in North America and some other placies 1/60 is better if there are artificial lights that can flicker)
No, it is sound advice. Cinema cameras are so sure about this that they use degrees instead of shutter speed. Typically you stay at 180 degrees. If you need more light and the action is slow then you adjust one way or, alternatively, if you need faster shutter for fx or to video cars driving by then you adjust the other way.
@@HikingWithCooper Search for "Gerald Undone motion blur" here on UA-cam and watch the video. I'm sure you will change your mind.
Cinema cameras has the shutter angle option and it is generally good because if someone shoots in 60 fps or higher frame rate it is most often used for slow motion. So using 180 degree shutter angle is a good default
There are exceptions to 180 degree rule, but 1/100-1/120 shutter for 50-60fps timelines is a good default. It's a balance between blurriness of 1/60 second shutter and stop-motion effect of 1/250 shutter. Some scenes will look better at 1/250 or even faster shutter (for example, sports or fast dancing movements) and some - at 1/60. Slow movements will look buttery smooth at 1/60, but it also will produce unwanted excessive blur when you are panning for example. Motion blur helps to 'read' motion, but it also destroys details on moving objects, so it's always a tradeoff. 1/120 is a middle ground that will be OK in most cases.
Great content but this is really a paid product promo no? You should really explain that it is a duel polarisation filter and not a true ND. Polarisation filters do not look good and are not NDs even if they "appear" to do the same job. Do not buy this unless you know the difference
I hate motion blur, I want to be able to grab a frame from videos and see what is going on.
Hate the bloom effect that the mist gives too. I want to see the profile of things, not some artificial shaped light. The human element to design needs to be seen.
I guess that's why different people see things differently.
You can be michael bay and JJ, Ill be George and Steven.
Photography is like learning brain surgery..😢
shoot at 24 fps is real cinema
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Shift your color in you Sony color profile
No I’d rather just use nd filters that don’t have a color cast so I don’t have to keep shifting my colors in camera
I need a tutorial on this 👀
Both look jittery thanks to IS
Please stop using that double shutter speed rule. That is only true for 24/25/30fps. Nice video otherwise
Depends on the situation. 180 rule for 24/25/30 but 360 rule for 60/50 if youre delivering in 60/50 but if you’re slowing down 60/50 on a 24/25/30 timeline then you’ll want to stick to the 180 rule
I always use the 180 shutter rule but have realized that you actually can get away with it being faster. And actually you want it to be faster in some cases e.g. action scenes
ND filter is rarely needed. People just religiously follow the 180 rule, without ever trying something different to see that it works just as well.
@@vitaminb4869 so true… it’s overrated
@@Jwats96 Ok, there.
@@vitaminb4869depends on aperture you are using. Use nd to get 1.8 or 2.8 outside
I had to stop watching at the image of you holding the color chart. You forced us all as viewers to pause and figure out you aren't holding them in the same orientation for a quick comparison.
I see no difference
I do
But i have 4 eyes :D@@JevenDovey
New learn something new
Why do all Americans speak in this odd, staccato fashion? You sound like you are constantly out of breath, it makes your speech very distracting. Try to relax, take a deep breath and enjoy language, it should flow, just like you are trying to do with the video.. great content
Overused "that cinematic look", repetition, it sounds distracting and iritating, instead of saying outright what is the benfit of ND filter, like they guy in video doesn't really know what he talks about or have bought a random thingie from a shop and tries to describe without propper education on the matter. Maybe he knows, but tries to explain in a simplified way, but it's almost unbearably amateurish.
Those miso filters are great, the reinventing of the wheel aka adapter rings, is a total deal breaker
better looking footage starts with "Better Looking People"
Jeven i msg you on your email kindly reply