UPDATE: HST vent information stands as is. Front axle vent is TBD. I tried the air test again and it's hard to tell if I have rubber test plug leaks that are fooling me. Will investigate and post a comment update soon.
I haven't, but lots of people in the forums have. You just clean it up real good and silicone it back into place. What was the issue in your case, clogged vent cap or overfilled with hydraulic fluid?
Hello there Ed!! These are some neat tips. The rear hydraulic oil is tricky to check so your technique will come in handy. The vent on the front end caps is usually always painted over. And like you point out, no vent and the pressure has to go somewhere and it does, usually through the seals. I have a video about changing the front axle seals too (ua-cam.com/video/ooAplhp8ZD0/v-deo.html) so I know what a plugged vent can do!! Thanks for this and take care!!!
Yes, I watched that video of yours a while back. Great content. That looks like one of those jobs that is doable but you just need to take your time and not get in a rush!
Wow quickly and nicely done. another great video that will help people like me trying to keep their tractor top shape for years. I am curious now to read comments. I might modify my front vent and drill a bigger hole and place a small U shape pipe facing down as I hate seeing the hole facing up open to the element such as rain.
You're the superstar of this video. I wrote myself a note to do a video like this 6 weeks ago but I just kept putting it off until your FB post today. Thank you!
There are none. It's an open system, the pump bleeds air out on its own. No mention at all in the service manual of a need to bleed the hydraulics either.
Oh wow, I gotta check them vent holes now, thanks! Regarding the hst oil level, I heard people putting some dye in there so it's easier to read in the sight glass, but personally I don't trip to much about it.
I also read on the Facebook forum that standard AGCO Permatran821 has the die in it already. I tried looking at mine with a small UV flashlight and it does seem to show UV, but I wasn't 100% sure due to me being color blind and also having overall bad vision, lol. If you're using Permatran, hit it with a UV light and tell me what you see.
@@Redneck_Ed Dude u teaching me all sorts of new stuff today, nah I never heard about the UV thing! I'm gonna pass that along on the GC forum over there on TBN. I used Amsoil synthetic, seems to be more obvious in that sight glass compared to Permatran coz of the yellowish tinge to it.
Good video, thanks for the info. I couldn't find the fill tube on my 1725M. It turns out I am missing my cap for it. Your video showed me where it was. Good work.
Thank you, thank you. Your sight glass hydraulic check solution was spot on. Mine has always been full... but after time you just wonder. I parked down on a steep in incline and it was just enough for fluid to dip down so you could aee a line. Really appreciate your tip!
It has power steering and it’s so easy to turn. That knob is going to be more of an annoyance than anything else. Those are more meant for big old, old school arm strong steer tractors.
4:20 It is the opposite for me. The older machines without power steering need 2 hands on the wheel. The spinner shines on new machines with power steering. I've had it for 18 months so far and love it. Have you tried one on your sub compact tractor?
@@Redneck_Ed not yet no. I just picked mine up for a steal of a deal. I have one on my big tractor but never crossed my mind on my small one. Ah what the heck I’ll order one up from Amazon. Compared to my larger tractor this thing feels like a toy. Lol
@@systematic_control367 They are cheap enough to give it a shot. I like it for situations like where I'm trying to make more precise movements like attaching/removing the loader or hooking up any SSQA or 3 point implement. Also useful for backing into the carport because it gives great 1 hand control while you lean over or backwards to see what you're doing.
Hello. What do you think is the cause no drive, no pto no 3 point linkage, no hydraulic steering. Have cleaned replaced both hydraulic filters. Engine starts.
That's well beyond my knowledge. The guy on the midcoast tractor service channel has done a complete disassembly on his transmission. You might find something useful in his videos. There is a gear pump in the HST though, so might be something related to that. Did you find a lot of metal in the hydraulic fluid, hydraulic paper filter, and hydraulic screen when you changed it?
Those are good tips, Ed. I wonder if my older HC2610 HST is different. My sight glass has always been full. I recently replaced all of the fluid in it, pouring in the amount of fluid called for in the manual. It still covered the glass. I will look for the vent holes in my caps. Thanks for sharing. - Rick
From the comments I've read on rhe topic, a little over fill isn't a huge deal as long as the vent is clear. Some people have said that an overfill and a plugged vent will cause the sight glass to pop out from excessive pressure.
Does anyone know what the Agco part number is for the rear hydraulic vent cap? I bought mine used and im guessing the previous owner lost it. They replaced it with a rubber flap and clamp. Thanks for the help!
Check out my video on AGCO parts diagrams ( ua-cam.com/video/fKkS6W8tqXg/v-deo.html ). Should show you exactly how to get the part number. If you have any trouble finding it, reply to this comment again and I'll look it up.
Yeah, that seemed odd to me too. They don't call for changing the front axle fluid annually but I buy the 5 gallon jug and will likely be doing the front annually too.
Hey Ed, just watched this one and then went and checked my oil plug vent. I had been doing work this morning that required 4WD so I thought it might be a good idea. When I loosened it, you could hear air escaping. I'm guessing my vent is plugged too, but not sure how to fix it vs. just buying a new one. I did clear away the dab of paint and tried my air compressor to blow air thru the plug, but feel like those didn't help. I would imagine that if pressure builds up inside, then the little thing in the middle of the cap would raise up, so I'm not sure that your air test would actually do anything would it? Anyway, thanks for throwing the part # up in the video, I may need to use it! Edit: Did you use the same Permatran that's for the HST in the front axles? I don't recall seeing anything about what exactly to use in the front axles.
I should have updated the pinned comment for this video. I went back to check this a while ago and that front axle cap is not vented. I must have just been getting some blow by with the air compressor test that fooled me. I get the same air escaping issue when I check it after running, so I think there is definitely a need to vent it. What I've been doing now is just running the cap barely hand tight and sometimes while running I might get a very small amount of fluid leaking out of it. To me, that's a good compromise. I get some venting, but not really any contamination. If I run in the rain or snow, I'll probably snug it up first so it's sealed from water and then crack it open to release pressure after I park it in the shed. I use Permatran 821XL in the front axle and change it every other year, but some people run 80 90 axle oil which apparently is what was spec'd for the earlier model GC1700 series before the 1723/1725.
@@Redneck_Ed I think I might order a second cap and destroy the OEM one in order to see how it is suppose to work and prove whether or not it functions correctly. I do like the idea of hand tightening it and checking it often, but you shouldn't have to do it that way.
UPDATE: HST vent information stands as is. Front axle vent is TBD. I tried the air test again and it's hard to tell if I have rubber test plug leaks that are fooling me. Will investigate and post a comment update soon.
Have you ever had the sight window pop off? It just happened to me yesterday, left a nice trail off fuild until I noticed it. Hopefully It's fixable.
I haven't, but lots of people in the forums have. You just clean it up real good and silicone it back into place. What was the issue in your case, clogged vent cap or overfilled with hydraulic fluid?
Hello there Ed!! These are some neat tips. The rear hydraulic oil is tricky to check so your technique will come in handy. The vent on the front end caps is usually always painted over. And like you point out, no vent and the pressure has to go somewhere and it does, usually through the seals. I have a video about changing the front axle seals too (ua-cam.com/video/ooAplhp8ZD0/v-deo.html) so I know what a plugged vent can do!! Thanks for this and take care!!!
Yes, I watched that video of yours a while back. Great content. That looks like one of those jobs that is doable but you just need to take your time and not get in a rush!
Wow quickly and nicely done. another great video that will help people like me trying to keep their tractor top shape for years. I am curious now to read comments. I might modify my front vent and drill a bigger hole and place a small U shape pipe facing down as I hate seeing the hole facing up open to the element such as rain.
You're the superstar of this video. I wrote myself a note to do a video like this 6 weeks ago but I just kept putting it off until your FB post today. Thank you!
GREAT video my friend!! I have a 1725 and am looking for a drag box. How do you like yours?
I really like it. Moves a lot of material and helps a lot with basic driveway maintenance.
My 1523 is leaking BAD out of the left rear axle seal.
Sounds like a bad seal that needs replaced. It could be venting, but I've never heard of venting leading to a leaking rear seal.
Yeah how do you bleed the hydraulics and where is the valves to bleed
There are none. It's an open system, the pump bleeds air out on its own. No mention at all in the service manual of a need to bleed the hydraulics either.
Oh wow, I gotta check them vent holes now, thanks! Regarding the hst oil level, I heard people putting some dye in there so it's easier to read in the sight glass, but personally I don't trip to much about it.
I also read on the Facebook forum that standard AGCO Permatran821 has the die in it already. I tried looking at mine with a small UV flashlight and it does seem to show UV, but I wasn't 100% sure due to me being color blind and also having overall bad vision, lol. If you're using Permatran, hit it with a UV light and tell me what you see.
@@Redneck_Ed Dude u teaching me all sorts of new stuff today, nah I never heard about the UV thing! I'm gonna pass that along on the GC forum over there on TBN. I used Amsoil synthetic, seems to be more obvious in that sight glass compared to Permatran coz of the yellowish tinge to it.
Good video, thanks for the info. I couldn't find the fill tube on my 1725M. It turns out I am missing my cap for it. Your video showed me where it was. Good work.
Thank you, thank you. Your sight glass hydraulic check solution was spot on. Mine has always been full... but after time you just wonder. I parked down on a steep in incline and it was just enough for fluid to dip down so you could aee a line. Really appreciate your tip!
It has power steering and it’s so easy to turn. That knob is going to be more of an annoyance than anything else. Those are more meant for big old, old school arm strong steer tractors.
4:20 It is the opposite for me. The older machines without power steering need 2 hands on the wheel. The spinner shines on new machines with power steering. I've had it for 18 months so far and love it. Have you tried one on your sub compact tractor?
@@Redneck_Ed not yet no. I just picked mine up for a steal of a deal. I have one on my big tractor but never crossed my mind on my small one. Ah what the heck I’ll order one up from Amazon. Compared to my larger tractor this thing feels like a toy. Lol
@@systematic_control367 They are cheap enough to give it a shot. I like it for situations like where I'm trying to make more precise movements like attaching/removing the loader or hooking up any SSQA or 3 point implement. Also useful for backing into the carport because it gives great 1 hand control while you lean over or backwards to see what you're doing.
How do you bleed the hydraulics where is the leaders
Hello. What do you think is the cause no drive, no pto no 3 point linkage, no hydraulic steering. Have cleaned replaced both hydraulic filters. Engine starts.
That's well beyond my knowledge. The guy on the midcoast tractor service channel has done a complete disassembly on his transmission. You might find something useful in his videos. There is a gear pump in the HST though, so might be something related to that. Did you find a lot of metal in the hydraulic fluid, hydraulic paper filter, and hydraulic screen when you changed it?
Those are good tips, Ed. I wonder if my older HC2610 HST is different. My sight glass has always been full. I recently replaced all of the fluid in it, pouring in the amount of fluid called for in the manual. It still covered the glass. I will look for the vent holes in my caps. Thanks for sharing. - Rick
From the comments I've read on rhe topic, a little over fill isn't a huge deal as long as the vent is clear. Some people have said that an overfill and a plugged vent will cause the sight glass to pop out from excessive pressure.
@@Redneck_Ed Thanks.
Thank you for the info.
Does anyone know what the Agco part number is for the rear hydraulic vent cap? I bought mine used and im guessing the previous owner lost it. They replaced it with a rubber flap and clamp. Thanks for the help!
Check out my video on AGCO parts diagrams ( ua-cam.com/video/fKkS6W8tqXg/v-deo.html ). Should show you exactly how to get the part number. If you have any trouble finding it, reply to this comment again and I'll look it up.
Weird how front axle vent is on top of the cap where all water dirt etc land
Yeah, that seemed odd to me too. They don't call for changing the front axle fluid annually but I buy the 5 gallon jug and will likely be doing the front annually too.
Hey Ed, just watched this one and then went and checked my oil plug vent. I had been doing work this morning that required 4WD so I thought it might be a good idea. When I loosened it, you could hear air escaping. I'm guessing my vent is plugged too, but not sure how to fix it vs. just buying a new one. I did clear away the dab of paint and tried my air compressor to blow air thru the plug, but feel like those didn't help. I would imagine that if pressure builds up inside, then the little thing in the middle of the cap would raise up, so I'm not sure that your air test would actually do anything would it? Anyway, thanks for throwing the part # up in the video, I may need to use it!
Edit: Did you use the same Permatran that's for the HST in the front axles? I don't recall seeing anything about what exactly to use in the front axles.
I should have updated the pinned comment for this video. I went back to check this a while ago and that front axle cap is not vented. I must have just been getting some blow by with the air compressor test that fooled me. I get the same air escaping issue when I check it after running, so I think there is definitely a need to vent it. What I've been doing now is just running the cap barely hand tight and sometimes while running I might get a very small amount of fluid leaking out of it. To me, that's a good compromise. I get some venting, but not really any contamination. If I run in the rain or snow, I'll probably snug it up first so it's sealed from water and then crack it open to release pressure after I park it in the shed. I use Permatran 821XL in the front axle and change it every other year, but some people run 80 90 axle oil which apparently is what was spec'd for the earlier model GC1700 series before the 1723/1725.
@@Redneck_Ed I think I might order a second cap and destroy the OEM one in order to see how it is suppose to work and prove whether or not it functions correctly. I do like the idea of hand tightening it and checking it often, but you shouldn't have to do it that way.
@@brianjennings3172 I published an update video yesterday too: ua-cam.com/video/-GGowsa5qWQ/v-deo.html