How to adjust on most bowling sport patterns (getting lined up)
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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Just a little tip, I always suggest starting super far right during practice and moving left if necessary. The tips shown in the video only apply if you are throwing across the middle. Most sport patterns are very difficult when playing deep. The deep angles don't open up until the outside breaks. The burn on the outside actually guides your ball to the pocket on misses out.
Ok, I am new to bowling. What does it mean when you say the ball “comes in heavy/light”?
light = barely gets there hits more on the side of the head pin. heavy = goes past flush hitting the head pin more in front. Flush = perfect pocket hit
Great Video. Can you do a video about reading Oil Pattern Sheets? Thanks
Great idea. Hope he does it.
Wish I had seen this yesterday! Bowled on the 41ft 2016 USBC womens masters pattern, changed lanes to where I was coming light on the pocket...
Ok, I move further outside... and killed my look entirely.
Can I have a do-over please?
yes please
Thank you! Perfect advice for flat shots.
When the pattern is short, the ball will hook early, so play far from the pocket, from the right, so when it hooks early, it will be so far right, that it will hook into the pocket.
When the pattern is long, the ball will hook late, so play close to the pocket, further left, so when the ball hooks, it will already be at the pocket.
Best Video Yet. Inside knowledge explained in simple practical terms. Thanks
Wish I would have watched this before Richmond this past weekend
Thanks for the tips! The summer sport shot league starts in a few weeks. I will keep this in mind.
But JR, what about moving left and then also throwing the ball out more to the right edge???
Confusing? Brain surgery seems easier now
Only thing about bowling I hate is , too many different terms meaning too many different things smh . Cliff, dry, flatter, taper, hook, down lane , boards , traction, friction, beaten path etc.. I can go on and on . Stop with the madness
I have a black widow ghost. No matter where I move, that ball gravitates dead center to pin 1. What am I doing wrong?
being a house bowler getting ready to join a sports shot league, this video blew my mind. great stuff
Hmmm. Food for thought.
I've always thought the ultimate goal was ANGLE (per se) rather than HOOK (per se), since it's the ANGLE that reduces deflection and increases margin for error and pin carry. Hook merely SERVES the angle.
If I'm hitting light, I find that moving left-and-left, I still don't get the desired ANGLE: even if I hit the pocket, the ball deflects right and leaves 10-pins etc. Maybe my results would match yours if I could generally increase my hook, as it is much less dramatic than yours ( ~looking down in shame~ ).
Thank his I bowl and know what he’s talking about. If I was new I’d be lost and confused
What if its 40ft. Of flat oil like. Kegal red square oil pattern does it. Work the same or no
JR looks like he lost quite a bit of weight and lost his belly!
Well done man keep it up!
Good video 👍, I’ll try that on a sport pattern.
Wish I had seen this video before last weekend. Was bowling the state tournament on what appeared to be a reverse block pattern - dry in the middle, flooded on the outside. So outside of 10 board was basically out of bounds. I tried moving left, but the ball just hooked that much more. I tried moving right, but the ball never picked up. Reactive or urethane balls, didn't matter, no help. Some guys were throwing charcoal outside of 10 board during warmup to carve out their own lines to the pocket and they struggled as well. Everybody struggled, even the best bowlers in the state. Thanks for the tips. I will try them the next time I bowl in a tournament or tougher pattern.
Best thing I ever tried for reverse block is using a ball that flares about a medium amount and move left. Low flare balls were my worst result. Low flare urethane and strong reactive drilled not to flare was the worst. Storm Thunder drilled weak was the best ball I ever had for that stuff. Turbo/C and Jade Piranha/C worked well on the very dry. Alot of Team Challenge guys used those. I would always opt for a ball that I can trust to finish and just up the ball speed, versus something that might catch a spot and skid on me.
I have been trying to get people to move right instead of left but it's hard for them to believe that is the best option sometimes I learned that the hard way hopefully people learn from you and save some money and stress
you are correct specially at Nationals it's hard to get everybody on the same page
Awesome video
I played a lot in the past and took years off from bowling, now getting back into it I'm all over the place with reading the lanes (mainly controlling my hook and adjustments).. even though you said 'it sounds confusing' , it actually makes a ton of sense getting back into it.. I used to loft more and/or throw with more speed when lanes broke down or the pattern seemed to be 'shorter' watching and hearing you explain it just makes so much sense, it's been that long.. I've been struggling of late but this is invaluable info.
Hi, you said on longer pattern, balls dont hook but you should still move left to close in the target. I did that once and my ball skid straight down and didnt hook. When i move right i get to hit the pocket but it hooks so much more on the right that it cross over. How do i play on that lane? It seems like the first 15 or 20 ft it is very flat and heavy. And then the middle is also very heavy until 40 plus ft. But the sides after 20 to 30 ft is very dry. If i miss in, my ball would skid too long. If i miss right my ball will hook too much.
Great stuff JR. I would like to see more videos on your channel for Sport patterns, and on how to play and adjust, more like different videos for each pattern if possible. Thank you, and again GREAT channel.
Good video. But, at what point do you ignore your execution and starting moving your feet? Example? I shot 620 in team at Nats this last week. Game 1 of doubles I go 220. Game 2, 4 splits on the left lane and I'm shooting 140. Make a big move left, stronger ball, and the hook just never developed. Shoot 204 But I didn't see the move, I missed it entirely, left 4 splits on the left lane, struck 3 times on the right lane. I moved 9 and 5 from the end of the 2nd game, until we started singles. Clearly, missed a move on the left lane which was also 3 and 1 hookier than the right lane. Just flat out stayed on top of it too long, but I questioned my execution the entire time until I moved. I just flat out missed the transition.
Man, I've been waiting for someone to post real commentary on ball motion and adjustment. This info on lining up and adjusting on sport patterns is invaluable. Thank you so much!
Assuming that a bowler is already lined up for his strike position, what will be the sparing strategy? Will the "3-6-9, move left or right" while maintaining the same target still apply or should the target also move with the feet? Or, what will be the best or recommended sparing strategy when it comes to Sport shot? Thanks.
If I see my ball hooking too much I should move right and left if it is not hooking enough? Is it possible that there is a spot on the lane that I shouldn't get by ball to? For example if I bowl on 41ft pattern is there a part of the lane that I shouldn't play? Also I should be using stronger balls on shorter patterns and weaker balls on longer patterns?
It seems this is more about where your break point is (rule of 31 or rule of 36 if you're a two hander). Once you can get the ball to the correct break point for the pattern to strike now you can move your feet accordingly. Seems this was explained backwards.
Very good video! Wish I would have seen this a couple years ago. The one thing I think may not have been that clear is that when you say "move right" or "move left," on tougher patterns, you mean moving "zones" by moving eyes and feet the same amount of boards.
Is there a certain ball speed that a competitor needs to meet in order to succeed in sports patterns? From my experiences, I have discovered that ball speed plays a role as the patterns transition during competition. Thanks for the video. This was helpful.
Thanx a ton for this very informational video, JR! I'll use it tonight in our sport league ;-)
But if you keep the same target board then you move opposite to the way you want your ball to to. You move where you stand, but you also move where your aiming around the arrows.
if i cant cup the bowling ball during the swing does that mean the ball is too heavy? i just started bowling and im using a 14lb ball
Correct me if im wrong but the difference seems to be where you are getting the ball out to. If i get the ball to the 10 board at the break point when i am standing 15 it will hook more that if i was standing on the 25. Keeping the ball in vs getting the ball out is the real difference.
Thank you for publishing this video, great information! Would this apply to some house pattern?
I'm a boss at fresh bowling oils but as I dry them up it gets really hard
How do you know if you are bowling on a short or long pattern?
Thank you!!!
Are sectional patterns a sport pattern typically
Thanks for the info. Thanks 4 all the help. Everything you talked about, I tried and it works
This also works for longer patterns with a bit of friction on the outsides too
Thanks...!!! I did NOT know this..!!
Great vid, feels like im walking a tight rope cause of the angles i try to play on sport patterns.
When you're talking about moving closer and farther away from the pocket, are you talking about your breakpoint?
Both. Feet and breakpoint
Hello can u answer???
Can you clarify what you say at 6:35? It sounds like “If you are on a league pattern, then you need to book a move.”
He said if you're on a league pattern make your typical move.
JR I stand with my feet together. Should I position my slide foot in front of my other foot? Whats a 2 and 1? 2 Boards one dot?
WILLIAM DWAYNE 2 and one means he moved his feet two and his mark one
I'm a 2 finger bowler due to breaking my thumb when i was younger and was wondering how i can lower my rev rate cause i over hook my shots
Throwing with 2 hands is a much better style than 1 with 2 fingers. There’s a reason Daugherty is the only pro 2 finger bowler. It’s extremely hard to control and to get speed. If you throw 2 hand you can get your speed to get down lane
Thanks for all the tips
One of your best. I'd also add that on sport or the lower ratio patterns, your bad shots will be magnified. So make sure you're throwing a quality shot with similar ball speed, axis rotation, and tilt. Basically a good to great shot. Never adjust off of a bad shot. It can be very detrimental. Again nice video. As a former tournament, and sport/challenge pattern bowler, a good general rule is the shorter the pattern the further right you want to start. For example cheetah 34ish feet. Try up 1st or second arrow. Shark 45ish feet. Try 3rd or 4th arrow with less angle away from the pocket. Also a good rule is to play your angles straighter on sport. Keep everything in front of you as much as possible. Use parallel moves more than angular moves. Also on longer patterns the ball will be more reactivate if you slow your ball speed down a bit and increase your axis rotation. On longer patterns increase your ball speed and use less axis rotation.
Good tip , what about the the dots on the setup position ? . I usually start off on the 4th dot and then roll on toward second arrow, the make adjustments moving left or right of the fourth dot. You talk about the arrows but not where to start on any of the dots for address ?
@@stevothegreat you can set up on any board or *dots* you want. Most people target the arrows. Some look way down the lane where the breakpoint is. Some look at the dots to Target or boards next to the dots. It's all personal preference. I'd say the most important thing is keep your angles straighter to the pocket wherever you decide to line up and target. Most league bowlers will start *big dot* and 10. So sliding board 20 trying to hit 2nd arrow which is board 10. You may be lucky but that probably won't work on most sport patterns.
Beginner bowler, so I’m gonna sound ignorant.
What would be the logic for moving to the left if you’re throw went slight left? I saw the first throw and immediately thought it would be common sense to just throw the same way but just move slightly over to catch the picket. In other words in what case would you move to the left if you’re missing left?
Andrew Doyle basically anything but a sport shot. Listen again, he mentions it and why
Andrew Doyle that logic applies to THS (typical house shot) where the outside boards are dry and middle of the lane is flooded. If you miss left, you move left to find more oil in the middle. This allows your ball to skid more and hook later. Sport shots are flatter, so oil on outside of the lanes is close to the amount in the middle.
I would move right on a pattern thatm is difficult to get hook, because in some houses in my area, there is like no oil on the outside.
That's a league pattern not a sport pattern. That's why you would move right at your house. Theres a big difference
@@Tenpindoctors ooh.. you do have a good point there!
WTF is "light - "heavy", please remember who your audience is.
I’m doing a pba experience league in Athens Texas. Last week was wolf and next Monday we start on cheetah for 2 weeks. I am a tweener but I do have high rev rate as I crank naturally. Any suggestions as to wear I line up and what line I should play??