Job complete, man that sucked! So the 13 inch length was sufficient. The difficulty came when it was time to line up the new units splines. Thank you 10000 times for showing that hack to move the vent assembly using the old spline gear assy from the broken unit. That saved me. I adjusted the keyway downward and then powered the new actuator until its keyway was facing downward, had to be quick with pulling power from the battery to stop the actuator from moving. Once I got the new unit I place, it was all down hill. Again, thank you for taking the time to document this process. Saved me 100s
I tried this on my 2015 Ford Explorer Limited after I noticed the HVAC system was stuck on defrost but the temperature control system was still working. I followed the steps listed in this video and now it works again! I'm not an expert mechanic, so I thought I'd list a few problems I ran into that may be helpful to others: 1. The "gate" my HVAC system was stuck on was defrost. To get the new motor to fit, I had to use the gear shown at 9:40 to twist the unit back to the "middle gate", which I think is the equivalent of the front blowers. I didn't realize this at first but because the mode actuator only fits in one angle you need the gates to be lined up correctly, or else it won't fit. The part can't be twisted much either, so better to use the gear to line it up. 2. I had a really difficult time getting my hands and tools behind the steering column to access / remove the mode actuator. Maybe I'm not graceful, but I thought this may be due to the Limited model having more "stuff" underneath the steering column. I was able to push the mode actuator directly behind the instrument cluster from the bottom of the steering column. After that I could reach my hand through where the instrument cluster was and attach the mode actuator correctly. 3. I used a 10-in extension and that was barely enough to make this work. I looked for longer options at local stores but none were available in stock. I was able to goofily attach another 3 inch extension to make the tool long enough (10 + 3 + wobble socket...yeah, I know, bootleg) but I'd recommend something longer. Great video! Really appreciate this kind of stuff on UA-cam.
First I did not know what was wrong until I watched this video. I ordered the part in the video (OEM #YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A) and set to pick up at local dealer, I also agree on OEM parts for things like this. Dealer quoted me 6-8 hours @ $125 per hour and $85 for the part, plus tax. All Said about $900 to $1100 USD I am a home DIYer however I have been buying snap-on tools for a while now. I did not have the wobble sockets so I did buy a set this morning from my local truck (Set #106IPTMMA - $335.00). When I pulled the old one out and tested it, it was spinning with power supplied. so I thought to myself it must be something else. I took the gear out of the old one and tested the free rotation, as in the video. Rotated free, there was one part that felt snug so I rotated it several times just in case. Put the old part in and same issue, I figured what the heck lets put the new one in and see what happens. BAM it worked! All together this took me an hour and half. Not bad for a DIYer! Total cost was $389.77 and I have some nice new tools, the part was only $54.77 with tax. Thank you for this video! If you want to shop directly from Ford you can use this link: parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/motor-assy-7836483-1?pdp=y#/sectionId:4156195 It will not show you the different models until you sign in and select a dealership to ship to. If you go through fords website to look it up for your self there is a A and a C, you need the A. Even the dealership tried to give me the wrong part. YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A
Thanks so much for the very detailed, comprehensive, no nonsense video. I have changed the blend door actuator in the past. That was tricky, but well worth doing yourself. This looks like it is a little harder to access, but thanks to this video, I'm sure I'll be fine.
First of all, great video. Very helpful. I would like to add that if you have Limited, you'll want to lower the steering column before you disconnect the negative battery cable. Other than that, this worked perfectly.
@@steven33068 Because the steering wheel tilt and lowering on the Limited is electronic. If you disconnect the battery cable, you have no power to perform that action.
Just changed my actuator, I'm 65 rebuilt many motors in my time but I must have monster hands could only get one screw back in, it works took me 4 hrs mostly aligning the actuator up to the vents. Thanks for the video tho I never would have tried it otherwise and saved me 600 bucks.
This was amazing and wonderfully detailed video! A lifesaver for this geologist who, just before Christmas, was on a cold, snowy, and very rural field site with no defrost. But with your video I was able to overnight the part and fix it myself with some borrowed tools from a sympathetic rancher. Thank you so much!
@@heartlandmechanic it certainly did! I have the “limited” version, which seems to have a bit more of a birds nest under the dash, which made getting the red tab and the lower screw securing the unit removed and reinstalled a real pain. But with a liberal application of both soft patience and loud profanity we got it done. It would have been an unpleasant 8 plus hour drive to the closest mechanic through extreme winter weather of northern Saskatchewan. And possibly worse if it had died on the long drive home to Washington State. So thank you again for your tutorial, and I hope you have a great 2023! Cheers 😊
Thanks for the video. Just finished the job. Good lawd that was awful. I must have hulk hands or something. Trying to contort my hand into the area to access the actuator was near impossible. Everything was in the way. When I had the gear out of the old one to use it as a tool to line the splines for the new unit, I dropped the gear a number of times, once in an area I thought I’d never fish out. Oh well, job is done. Time to go wash my mouth out. Haven’t cussed that bad in a long time.
I'm going to do this job tomorrow, I have three 1/4 extensions that total maybe 12 inches, figure with the u joint and 8mm socket prb 13 inches? You think thats gonna be long enough to get to those top screws? Otherwise, I'll hit harbor freight in the morning.
Hey thanks for posting this. I get all the air coming from the vents but no hot air, no defrost even though it's on high. Could this be my problem or another actuator on the pass side?
Haha I said the same thing 27 years ago after selling my Mustang. Became a GM man and never looked back. Better but they ain’t perfect either. My Saturn and Corvette have a combined total of 400,000 miles and I’ve had a few minor issues, mostly on the Saturn. Doing the clutch was the biggest challenge.
1 Apr2023,my 18 yr old daughter followed your video and completed the repair in 3 hours, very proud of her and Thank You for the great video!!
Job complete, man that sucked! So the 13 inch length was sufficient. The difficulty came when it was time to line up the new units splines. Thank you 10000 times for showing that hack to move the vent assembly using the old spline gear assy from the broken unit. That saved me. I adjusted the keyway downward and then powered the new actuator until its keyway was facing downward, had to be quick with pulling power from the battery to stop the actuator from moving. Once I got the new unit I place, it was all down hill. Again, thank you for taking the time to document this process. Saved me 100s
I tried this on my 2015 Ford Explorer Limited after I noticed the HVAC system was stuck on defrost but the temperature control system was still working. I followed the steps listed in this video and now it works again! I'm not an expert mechanic, so I thought I'd list a few problems I ran into that may be helpful to others:
1. The "gate" my HVAC system was stuck on was defrost. To get the new motor to fit, I had to use the gear shown at 9:40 to twist the unit back to the "middle gate", which I think is the equivalent of the front blowers. I didn't realize this at first but because the mode actuator only fits in one angle you need the gates to be lined up correctly, or else it won't fit. The part can't be twisted much either, so better to use the gear to line it up.
2. I had a really difficult time getting my hands and tools behind the steering column to access / remove the mode actuator. Maybe I'm not graceful, but I thought this may be due to the Limited model having more "stuff" underneath the steering column. I was able to push the mode actuator directly behind the instrument cluster from the bottom of the steering column. After that I could reach my hand through where the instrument cluster was and attach the mode actuator correctly.
3. I used a 10-in extension and that was barely enough to make this work. I looked for longer options at local stores but none were available in stock. I was able to goofily attach another 3 inch extension to make the tool long enough (10 + 3 + wobble socket...yeah, I know, bootleg) but I'd recommend something longer.
Great video! Really appreciate this kind of stuff on UA-cam.
Thank you so much this happened to my wife's 2015 Ford Explorer and it helped me fix the problem myself. And save 5 to $600. Awesome job!
First I did not know what was wrong until I watched this video. I ordered the part in the video (OEM #YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A) and set to pick up at local dealer, I also agree on OEM parts for things like this.
Dealer quoted me 6-8 hours @ $125 per hour and $85 for the part, plus tax. All Said about $900 to $1100 USD
I am a home DIYer however I have been buying snap-on tools for a while now. I did not have the wobble sockets so I did buy a set this morning from my local truck (Set #106IPTMMA - $335.00).
When I pulled the old one out and tested it, it was spinning with power supplied. so I thought to myself it must be something else. I took the gear out of the old one and tested the free rotation, as in the video. Rotated free, there was one part that felt snug so I rotated it several times just in case.
Put the old part in and same issue, I figured what the heck lets put the new one in and see what happens. BAM it worked!
All together this took me an hour and half. Not bad for a DIYer!
Total cost was $389.77 and I have some nice new tools, the part was only $54.77 with tax.
Thank you for this video!
If you want to shop directly from Ford you can use this link:
parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/motor-assy-7836483-1?pdp=y#/sectionId:4156195
It will not show you the different models until you sign in and select a dealership to ship to. If you go through fords website to look it up for your self there is a A and a C, you need the A.
Even the dealership tried to give me the wrong part. YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A
What’s the difference between A and C?
Thanks so much for the very detailed, comprehensive, no nonsense video. I have changed the blend door actuator in the past. That was tricky, but well worth doing yourself. This looks like it is a little harder to access, but thanks to this video, I'm sure I'll be fine.
First of all, great video. Very helpful. I would like to add that if you have Limited, you'll want to lower the steering column before you disconnect the negative battery cable. Other than that, this worked perfectly.
can you explain why?
@@steven33068 Because the steering wheel tilt and lowering on the Limited is electronic. If you disconnect the battery cable, you have no power to perform that action.
Great video! Straight to the point for dyi home mechanic’s like myself. Thanks again!
Just changed my actuator, I'm 65 rebuilt many motors in my time but I must have monster hands could only get one screw back in, it works took me 4 hrs mostly aligning the actuator up to the vents. Thanks for the video tho I never would have tried it otherwise and saved me 600 bucks.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thank you will be doing this on my mom this week dealership said $1800 😳
Omg I had this issue and your video was super informative. That thing was a PIA to get to! Please keep up the vids
I just replaced this on my explorer. Pain in the butt. Took me 2 hours. I’m not a mechanic. Just a man!
This was amazing and wonderfully detailed video! A lifesaver for this geologist who, just before Christmas, was on a cold, snowy, and very rural field site with no defrost.
But with your video I was able to overnight the part and fix it myself with some borrowed tools from a sympathetic rancher. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much , Glad it helped you out .
@@heartlandmechanic it certainly did! I have the “limited” version, which seems to have a bit more of a birds nest under the dash, which made getting the red tab and the lower screw securing the unit removed and reinstalled a real pain.
But with a liberal application of both soft patience and loud profanity we got it done.
It would have been an unpleasant 8 plus hour drive to the closest mechanic through extreme winter weather of northern Saskatchewan. And possibly worse if it had died on the long drive home to Washington State.
So thank you again for your tutorial, and I hope you have a great 2023! Cheers 😊
Thanks for the video. Was very helpful. Alltho mine still has the same problem and won’t switch to defrost
did you have to adjust the door with the gear or did the new actuator go in the same position the old actuator left it?
Thanks sir everything looks great appreciated
Very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
Thanks for the video. Just finished the job. Good lawd that was awful. I must have hulk hands or something. Trying to contort my hand into the area to access the actuator was near impossible. Everything was in the way. When I had the gear out of the old one to use it as a tool to line the splines for the new unit, I dropped the gear a number of times, once in an area I thought I’d never fish out. Oh well, job is done. Time to go wash my mouth out. Haven’t cussed that bad in a long time.
Is there a chance this could be caused by a fuse issue? Which fuse can I check for this mode actuator?
Great video. And I agree on OEM parts. Especially hard to get at like this one. Thanks for the video.
Great job
Great video you saved me a lot time and money many thanks
This video was good. Turned out to be the motor like he said.
Really great job ! Very helpful video thank you !
Thank you
I just did this, due to the same symptoms. Now that replaced the mode, the air will not work at all now
I'm going to do this job tomorrow, I have three 1/4 extensions that total maybe 12 inches, figure with the u joint and 8mm socket prb 13 inches? You think thats gonna be long enough to get to those top screws? Otherwise, I'll hit harbor freight in the morning.
That should be long enough , The one I used was about 14 to 15 inches.
Will this be the same for a 2016 Explorer?
I'm having the same issue
Great video, thanks!
Where did you get the extension with the wobble head?
Its a snap-on wobble socket connected to a extension .
1/4 inch
Hey thanks for posting this. I get all the air coming from the vents but no hot air, no defrost even though it's on high. Could this be my problem or another actuator on the pass side?
I’m having this exact same problem.
@@jpavielle Check your coolant level. that was my issue had a small leak. Good luck. @jpavielle
@@1yachtcarpenter it actually turned out to be the heater core. Its at the mechanic getting fixed now! Thank You!
Replaced mine now it just clicks but doesn’t change
Never buying a ford again. Nothing but problems like this. (2012 Explorer owner).
Haha I said the same thing 27 years ago after selling my Mustang. Became a GM man and never looked back. Better but they ain’t perfect either. My Saturn and Corvette have a combined total of 400,000 miles and I’ve had a few minor issues, mostly on the Saturn. Doing the clutch was the biggest challenge.
Same
My Ford explorer is just blowing on the vents and air won’t come out anywhere else. Is this video and part to be replaced still the same process?
great freaking video!!
thank you
Good luck not losing them bolts.... lol
Thank you!