This video was a godsend. The top two screws were actually pretty easy but the bottom was a bear. I think this is because my 2015 sport model had way more under the column. I also used a u-joint socket adapter as my wobbles didn’t get it done. It took me about 1.5 hours to get the unit out. I disassembled the old one to be able to use the old sprocket to turn it in the car. I was worried about getting the screws back in, but that only took a few minutes by taping the screws to the socket. I have fairly big hands and was able to get this done so don’t be afraid to try it.
I tried this on my 2015 Ford Explorer Limited after I noticed the HVAC system was stuck on defrost but the temperature control system was still working. I followed the steps listed in this video and now it works again! I'm not an expert mechanic, so I thought I'd list a few problems I ran into that may be helpful to others: 1. The "gate" my HVAC system was stuck on was defrost. To get the new motor to fit, I had to use the gear shown at 9:40 to twist the unit back to the "middle gate", which I think is the equivalent of the front blowers. I didn't realize this at first but because the mode actuator only fits in one angle you need the gates to be lined up correctly, or else it won't fit. The part can't be twisted much either, so better to use the gear to line it up. 2. I had a really difficult time getting my hands and tools behind the steering column to access / remove the mode actuator. Maybe I'm not graceful, but I thought this may be due to the Limited model having more "stuff" underneath the steering column. I was able to push the mode actuator directly behind the instrument cluster from the bottom of the steering column. After that I could reach my hand through where the instrument cluster was and attach the mode actuator correctly. 3. I used a 10-in extension and that was barely enough to make this work. I looked for longer options at local stores but none were available in stock. I was able to goofily attach another 3 inch extension to make the tool long enough (10 + 3 + wobble socket...yeah, I know, bootleg) but I'd recommend something longer. Great video! Really appreciate this kind of stuff on UA-cam.
Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.
I did this yesterday and was successful. Thank you for sharing these steps. Make sure you have the right part is a pro tip. I didn't double-check what I was given so had to go back and have it swapped. That was my foolish mistake. I had to take the old one apart to rotate the damper. One video I watched said to attach the power and turn on the accessories. I did that, the new one rotated but not to the right position. It took me about 3 hours, including going to swap the part.
Thanks so much for the very detailed, comprehensive, no nonsense video. I have changed the blend door actuator in the past. That was tricky, but well worth doing yourself. This looks like it is a little harder to access, but thanks to this video, I'm sure I'll be fine.
Just changed my actuator, I'm 65 rebuilt many motors in my time but I must have monster hands could only get one screw back in, it works took me 4 hrs mostly aligning the actuator up to the vents. Thanks for the video tho I never would have tried it otherwise and saved me 600 bucks.
First I did not know what was wrong until I watched this video. I ordered the part in the video (OEM #YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A) and set to pick up at local dealer, I also agree on OEM parts for things like this. Dealer quoted me 6-8 hours @ $125 per hour and $85 for the part, plus tax. All Said about $900 to $1100 USD I am a home DIYer however I have been buying snap-on tools for a while now. I did not have the wobble sockets so I did buy a set this morning from my local truck (Set #106IPTMMA - $335.00). When I pulled the old one out and tested it, it was spinning with power supplied. so I thought to myself it must be something else. I took the gear out of the old one and tested the free rotation, as in the video. Rotated free, there was one part that felt snug so I rotated it several times just in case. Put the old part in and same issue, I figured what the heck lets put the new one in and see what happens. BAM it worked! All together this took me an hour and half. Not bad for a DIYer! Total cost was $389.77 and I have some nice new tools, the part was only $54.77 with tax. Thank you for this video! If you want to shop directly from Ford you can use this link: parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/motor-assy-7836483-1?pdp=y#/sectionId:4156195 It will not show you the different models until you sign in and select a dealership to ship to. If you go through fords website to look it up for your self there is a A and a C, you need the A. Even the dealership tried to give me the wrong part. YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A
This was amazing and wonderfully detailed video! A lifesaver for this geologist who, just before Christmas, was on a cold, snowy, and very rural field site with no defrost. But with your video I was able to overnight the part and fix it myself with some borrowed tools from a sympathetic rancher. Thank you so much!
@@heartlandmechanic it certainly did! I have the “limited” version, which seems to have a bit more of a birds nest under the dash, which made getting the red tab and the lower screw securing the unit removed and reinstalled a real pain. But with a liberal application of both soft patience and loud profanity we got it done. It would have been an unpleasant 8 plus hour drive to the closest mechanic through extreme winter weather of northern Saskatchewan. And possibly worse if it had died on the long drive home to Washington State. So thank you again for your tutorial, and I hope you have a great 2023! Cheers 😊
First of all, great video. Very helpful. I would like to add that if you have Limited, you'll want to lower the steering column before you disconnect the negative battery cable. Other than that, this worked perfectly.
@Steve Because the steering wheel tilt and lowering on the Limited is electronic. If you disconnect the battery cable, you have no power to perform that action.
Thanks for the video. Just finished the job. Good lawd that was awful. I must have hulk hands or something. Trying to contort my hand into the area to access the actuator was near impossible. Everything was in the way. When I had the gear out of the old one to use it as a tool to line the splines for the new unit, I dropped the gear a number of times, once in an area I thought I’d never fish out. Oh well, job is done. Time to go wash my mouth out. Haven’t cussed that bad in a long time.
Hey thanks for posting this. I get all the air coming from the vents but no hot air, no defrost even though it's on high. Could this be my problem or another actuator on the pass side?
Haha I said the same thing 27 years ago after selling my Mustang. Became a GM man and never looked back. Better but they ain’t perfect either. My Saturn and Corvette have a combined total of 400,000 miles and I’ve had a few minor issues, mostly on the Saturn. Doing the clutch was the biggest challenge.
Fords junk.... If you talk to any knowledgeable mechanic shop they will tell you to avoid anything Ford. Ford keeps them in business and they all despise working on them
1 Apr2023,my 18 yr old daughter followed your video and completed the repair in 3 hours, very proud of her and Thank You for the great video!!
This video was a godsend. The top two screws were actually pretty easy but the bottom was a bear. I think this is because my 2015 sport model had way more under the column. I also used a u-joint socket adapter as my wobbles didn’t get it done. It took me about 1.5 hours to get the unit out. I disassembled the old one to be able to use the old sprocket to turn it in the car. I was worried about getting the screws back in, but that only took a few minutes by taping the screws to the socket. I have fairly big hands and was able to get this done so don’t be afraid to try it.
I tried this on my 2015 Ford Explorer Limited after I noticed the HVAC system was stuck on defrost but the temperature control system was still working. I followed the steps listed in this video and now it works again! I'm not an expert mechanic, so I thought I'd list a few problems I ran into that may be helpful to others:
1. The "gate" my HVAC system was stuck on was defrost. To get the new motor to fit, I had to use the gear shown at 9:40 to twist the unit back to the "middle gate", which I think is the equivalent of the front blowers. I didn't realize this at first but because the mode actuator only fits in one angle you need the gates to be lined up correctly, or else it won't fit. The part can't be twisted much either, so better to use the gear to line it up.
2. I had a really difficult time getting my hands and tools behind the steering column to access / remove the mode actuator. Maybe I'm not graceful, but I thought this may be due to the Limited model having more "stuff" underneath the steering column. I was able to push the mode actuator directly behind the instrument cluster from the bottom of the steering column. After that I could reach my hand through where the instrument cluster was and attach the mode actuator correctly.
3. I used a 10-in extension and that was barely enough to make this work. I looked for longer options at local stores but none were available in stock. I was able to goofily attach another 3 inch extension to make the tool long enough (10 + 3 + wobble socket...yeah, I know, bootleg) but I'd recommend something longer.
Great video! Really appreciate this kind of stuff on UA-cam.
Thank you so much this happened to my wife's 2015 Ford Explorer and it helped me fix the problem myself. And save 5 to $600. Awesome job!
Great video. Really helped out swapping this out this afternoon. One tip I would add is to use one of those flexible extenders to remove the rear upper bolt. In addition, you can use the extender to help move the flap in the proper position for the splined shaft of the new unit. Once you remove the splined shaft gear from the old unit, a T-40 torx bit fits perfectly in the center of the gear, with a few taps from a hammer to lock it in. Now you can connect the flexible extender to the bit and turn it to drop into the opening for the gear and turn it to the proper position. I also found that if you're close, but not quite there with lining up the splines, keeping light pressure against the new unit while you turn on the ignition switch causes the unit to turn and drop into place. Just make sure to leave the power on until you get a couple of the screws snugged down or it will pop out and it returns to its position before the power was on.
I did this yesterday and was successful. Thank you for sharing these steps. Make sure you have the right part is a pro tip. I didn't double-check what I was given so had to go back and have it swapped. That was my foolish mistake. I had to take the old one apart to rotate the damper. One video I watched said to attach the power and turn on the accessories. I did that, the new one rotated but not to the right position. It took me about 3 hours, including going to swap the part.
Thanks so much for the very detailed, comprehensive, no nonsense video. I have changed the blend door actuator in the past. That was tricky, but well worth doing yourself. This looks like it is a little harder to access, but thanks to this video, I'm sure I'll be fine.
Just changed my actuator, I'm 65 rebuilt many motors in my time but I must have monster hands could only get one screw back in, it works took me 4 hrs mostly aligning the actuator up to the vents. Thanks for the video tho I never would have tried it otherwise and saved me 600 bucks.
I appreciate the video! Tried different ones on youtube, but yours was spot on! Thank you!
Great video! Straight to the point for dyi home mechanic’s like myself. Thanks again!
I just replaced this on my explorer. Pain in the butt. Took me 2 hours. I’m not a mechanic. Just a man!
First I did not know what was wrong until I watched this video. I ordered the part in the video (OEM #YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A) and set to pick up at local dealer, I also agree on OEM parts for things like this.
Dealer quoted me 6-8 hours @ $125 per hour and $85 for the part, plus tax. All Said about $900 to $1100 USD
I am a home DIYer however I have been buying snap-on tools for a while now. I did not have the wobble sockets so I did buy a set this morning from my local truck (Set #106IPTMMA - $335.00).
When I pulled the old one out and tested it, it was spinning with power supplied. so I thought to myself it must be something else. I took the gear out of the old one and tested the free rotation, as in the video. Rotated free, there was one part that felt snug so I rotated it several times just in case.
Put the old part in and same issue, I figured what the heck lets put the new one in and see what happens. BAM it worked!
All together this took me an hour and half. Not bad for a DIYer!
Total cost was $389.77 and I have some nice new tools, the part was only $54.77 with tax.
Thank you for this video!
If you want to shop directly from Ford you can use this link:
parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/motor-assy-7836483-1?pdp=y#/sectionId:4156195
It will not show you the different models until you sign in and select a dealership to ship to. If you go through fords website to look it up for your self there is a A and a C, you need the A.
Even the dealership tried to give me the wrong part. YH1769 / AA5Z-19E616-A
What’s the difference between A and C?
This was amazing and wonderfully detailed video! A lifesaver for this geologist who, just before Christmas, was on a cold, snowy, and very rural field site with no defrost.
But with your video I was able to overnight the part and fix it myself with some borrowed tools from a sympathetic rancher. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much , Glad it helped you out .
@@heartlandmechanic it certainly did! I have the “limited” version, which seems to have a bit more of a birds nest under the dash, which made getting the red tab and the lower screw securing the unit removed and reinstalled a real pain.
But with a liberal application of both soft patience and loud profanity we got it done.
It would have been an unpleasant 8 plus hour drive to the closest mechanic through extreme winter weather of northern Saskatchewan. And possibly worse if it had died on the long drive home to Washington State.
So thank you again for your tutorial, and I hope you have a great 2023! Cheers 😊
First of all, great video. Very helpful. I would like to add that if you have Limited, you'll want to lower the steering column before you disconnect the negative battery cable. Other than that, this worked perfectly.
@Steve Because the steering wheel tilt and lowering on the Limited is electronic. If you disconnect the battery cable, you have no power to perform that action.
Omg I had this issue and your video was super informative. That thing was a PIA to get to! Please keep up the vids
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thank you will be doing this on my mom this week dealership said $1800 😳
Very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
did you have to adjust the door with the gear or did the new actuator go in the same position the old actuator left it?
I replaced the mode motor in my 15 Explorer this weekend. Now the fuel gauge doesn’t work and the Check Engine light is on. Please Help!!
Great video you saved me a lot time and money many thanks
Great video. And I agree on OEM parts. Especially hard to get at like this one. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. Was very helpful. Alltho mine still has the same problem and won’t switch to defrost
Thanks for the video. Just finished the job. Good lawd that was awful. I must have hulk hands or something. Trying to contort my hand into the area to access the actuator was near impossible. Everything was in the way. When I had the gear out of the old one to use it as a tool to line the splines for the new unit, I dropped the gear a number of times, once in an area I thought I’d never fish out. Oh well, job is done. Time to go wash my mouth out. Haven’t cussed that bad in a long time.
Thanks sir everything looks great appreciated
This video was good. Turned out to be the motor like he said.
Hey thanks for posting this. I get all the air coming from the vents but no hot air, no defrost even though it's on high. Could this be my problem or another actuator on the pass side?
I’m having this exact same problem.
@@jpavielle Check your coolant level. that was my issue had a small leak. Good luck. @jpavielle
@@1yachtcarpenter it actually turned out to be the heater core. Its at the mechanic getting fixed now! Thank You!
Really great job ! Very helpful video thank you !
I just did this, due to the same symptoms. Now that replaced the mode, the air will not work at all now
Is there a chance this could be caused by a fuse issue? Which fuse can I check for this mode actuator?
Hey I had the same question. Did you ever find out which fuse?
Where did you get the extension with the wobble head?
Its a snap-on wobble socket connected to a extension .
1/4 inch
Will this be the same for a 2016 Explorer?
I'm having the same issue
Replaced mine now it just clicks but doesn’t change
My Ford explorer is just blowing on the vents and air won’t come out anywhere else. Is this video and part to be replaced still the same process?
Great job
Great video, thanks!
Thank you!
👍👍
Thank you
I feel bad for the people with bigger hands
Never buying a ford again. Nothing but problems like this. (2012 Explorer owner).
Haha I said the same thing 27 years ago after selling my Mustang. Became a GM man and never looked back. Better but they ain’t perfect either. My Saturn and Corvette have a combined total of 400,000 miles and I’ve had a few minor issues, mostly on the Saturn. Doing the clutch was the biggest challenge.
Same
Fords junk.... If you talk to any knowledgeable mechanic shop they will tell you to avoid anything Ford. Ford keeps them in business and they all despise working on them
Good luck not losing them bolts.... lol
Thank you !