i absolutely love this board. the fly/mellow team provide excellent customer service and support. after having 3 skr boards die due to poor moffets, this was my upgrade and i couldn’t be happier paired with the mellow/fly 2209 drivers. in my opinion a total game changer.
Hi Chris. Ive got the Fly E3 PRo v3 a month ago. Its super silent and im loving RepRap. I coudnt get the stock diplay to work to date but im totally fine with the DWC. One little thing that i love is that on the config.g of different filaments i can store different PID values and it changes imediatly. The bed mesh compensation works like magic too. Thanks a lot for your tips and time.
For HE PID Tuning you should use T0 instead of the heater. RRF will also kick on the Parts cooler in a later phase of Tuning and take it also into consideration. Apart from that, great video as always. :)
I was thinking the similar thoughts, wanting to replace the 2560-based main board on my dual-Z dual-E Tronxy. There's a Fly-CDY-V2 board which is quite similar to the E3 but setup with two E drivers, NeoPixel and Laser connectors, and both EXP1+EXP2 connectors.
@@ChrisRiley thanks, mate, that would be great. This installation looked pretty painless so I reckon the CDY-V2 experience would be pretty similar. Seems like there are three different versions of the board supporting PT100, NTC or K-type thermocouple temp sensors, so people would need to figure out what they've got before they order.
Get their it board that not that much more expensive. That thing is overkill. I think it can do like the gtr around 12 spots for extruders or whatever you want. I was going to get that one but I already have the duet wifi, gtr v1
Thanks to your and Teaching Tech's instructions, it was easy to setup. I like this board a lot. The actual hotend and bed temperature however are 10% lower than the requested values. This is because of e small design error: Mellow did put 1k resistors in series with the thermistors. You can short circuit R18 and R20 to correct this. (FLY-E3-PRO!) Safer is it to correct the T value in config.g. M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 becomes M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T90000 B4092. As you can see I have added the correct beta value as well. This is for a type 1 thermistor used on most machines. For the heater you can do a similar thing M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 becomes M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T90000 B4092 Regard, Yits.
Thank's Chris, an interesting and cheap route into RepRap £34.32 for the board and 2209's in the UK delivered.... an upgrade on my i3 clone I think.....
I love your vids man. You take time to explain it all! Not saying anything about the other people's channels, but yours is definitely the first thing I check before doing installs.
I don't find the plug to attach the filament runout sensor. No free neopixel port either.... The video is very helpful and with it I could easily install my board on an Ender 3 Max. Thx Chris!
@@ChrisRiley There is a pro version on Aliexpress on preorder. For the filament sensor I can use a unused pin of the serial screen or the generic ender display. Maybe BTT RRF E3 is the better choice.
Its best to plug in the WIFI antenna, you will damage the module if you run it without one. Thats just a general rule of thumb for things that transmit RF signals. Receivers can't get damaged without an antenna, but things that transmit can and will degrade the components from heat build up since there is no where for the signal to radiate from.
Just ordered this. Been looking for it and the screen since November. Finally pulled the trigger last week. It's on its way from China to go in my lulzbot taz. And i just bought a Rambo 1.3l. Wanna buy a Rambo board? 😂
I played with the RRF on my 1.4t, mostly worked out. Biggest issue I had was getting it to play nice with the EZABL pro and getting the grid working correctly. I'll have to look and see if there has been any improvement. The onboard wifi module would allow me to keep the tft connected.
Chris, I know how to adjust Sensorless Homing sensitivity in Marlin (TMC2209) But I can't seem to find the Gcode to use to set it in RRF? I did read it is a number between -65 to 64 while Marlin is 0-256.
Make sure your endstops are set to S3, then use M915 reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M915:_Configure_motor_stall_detection These are my settings for a Duet with 2660's. Core XY. M574 X1 S3 M574 Y1 S3 M915 X S2.5 F0 H400 R0 ; X / Y Axes M915 Y S2 F0 H400 R0
I prefer the SKR 1.4 with RRF to be honest. There is a super good port created by fans, that is updated regularly as well. And you can use it with a Raspberry Pi to run Duet3 server :)
@@MarinusMakesStuff I haven't tried it with a pi TBH. But at the moment, there is no advantage to using a pi over this board with wifi. Its only when plugins start to be released that are pi only that a pi will become the better option. The SKR boards do indeed have more I/O's but this board is designed to be a drop in replacement for the Ender 3 so has size constraints. If you want more connections then go for the Fly-CDYv2 www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001701631493.html
@@JaySuk Looks interesting, a bit more expensive than the SKR 1.4 (and to be honest, I'm all for DIY so don't need a drop-in replacement) and since I'm used to working with the SKR 1.4 I'm quite hesitant to 'switch sides' haha. Although I like to have a broad experience. But these things aside, I see the board you shared has more options than the SKR 1.4 I'm currently using the Pi to do 'TAMV' as an experiment, do you know it? I think it could be the future. So the setup I'm using now is the way to go, but maybe in the future these FLY boards will become a nice alternative to the beautiful Duet boards. Especially financially. I'll keep my eye on it, and if I ever decide to build that CoreXY printer I've been thinking of for so long with kinematically 4-point leveled bed, I might just get that FLY board with some extra outputs for the additional stepper drivers that it will need. Heck, maybe I'll even build a CoreXY where the bed is stationary and the whole CoreXY gantry moved up and down.. Who knows.
I performed all the actions from this video, first i went to the latest version of beta (leter then in the video) - the Display folder was not visible. After that I rolled back to the version from the video - 3.2_7, but the display folder is still not visible and I have no way to upload the menu files. I entered mentioned commands into the board.txt and config.g Would be glad to get any advice, thanks
Hello, I have problem with ender 5 with FLY-RRF. Everything work fine instead of printing and F2 fan(printing cooling)- on screen it's showing (-100%) of speed. So the problem is that when I start priting it generally be very slowly. The speed was set to 80mm/s but it's run 12mm/s at pik. I'm using Cura 4.9 and in setting change value to reprap firmware. I dont know what to do :/
the video is great with all the right information as always, Just between you and i, It's kind of pointless to want to put RepRap firmware on such a board or printer, The whole idea of RepRap firmware, it is closer to a real CNC machine, like the ones you would find professional industrial tools such as Milling... in terms of G codes anyways, Rather pointless in a 3d printer especially in something like an Ender that will never be solid enough to be used for something other than a 3d printer. I might be wrong, there might have been other changes to the firmware since I last played around with it.
EDIT: Just for the record, I do agree with you about this board is a nice cost-effective 32bit board my only concern is the bed power mosfet, but that can be easily solved with an external one i guess lol
i don't understand you. its still a cnc machine, just not for subtracting but additive =) i feel like the wifi is cool, and also that you can change the stepper drivers.
@@certified-forklifter Think of it as putting high octane fuel in a geo metro, it has an internal combustible engine like an f1 and yet it's not. If you can give me 10 good reasons why a 3d printer would use on-the-fly Macro commands and all the other features the Reprap is well known for, lol I would be more than happy to change my mind.
@@patprop74 mh, well i understand you but i dont really agree. For that money, you can exchange your drivers and get wifi without any weird add ons or external Pi or so. RRF is quite powerful, as you said, but i dont see why you would not put it in a more basic printer like the ender.
Hello I have a mellow fly E3 pro and since there isn't a separate video for it ANYWHERE and this is all I could find I thought it was close to the same but it's not please make another vid for the E3 fly pro version of the board, inside ender 3 pro, lack of clear avalible info for the fly E3 pro has almost caused me to hook it all up wrong and I payed 90$ for it
Hey, I realize this is awhile after you posted this but I got given a free ender 3 with this same FLY RRF-E3 installation done to it, but I didn't know the owner (Free craigslist) and can't figure out how to actually use the software (pronterface) to connect it to my wifi as no port pops up. I'm a mechanical engineer but good lord did I not know what I was getting into with this lol. Thanks for any possible help or thoughts.
Hey, there might be an issue with the driver they use to communicate with it. See if these video helps get you back to taking with it via USB. ua-cam.com/video/UPu7_RPE1d0/v-deo.html
I bought 2 of the board kits with screens.does anyone now the max Watts for a 24v bed heater pad? I am looking at a 24v 350W version. Thank You! TWOTREES make one as well as a few others in my 300x300mm bed size.
Chris, your video details is the best by far. I have a scenario though, what happens if ones internet provider can't provide internet for a few hours, or a router is broken until a replacement is bought, how does one connect to the printer? Struggling to wrap my head around non-Marlin firmware or, would it be possible to run Marlin on this board?
You can't run Marlin on this one, but the internet/network connection going down won't affect your printer if it printing. You will have to have an LCD to interact with it while the network is down.
Great video, one thing to note is that the board won't flash without vin power. This took me awhile to figure out because I was trying to test the board before installing it.
Nice video, really enjoy the instructions you give in detail. Do you know how close the Ender 3 is in comparison to the Artillery Sidewinder x1, latest version? Thanks.
Stock Anet A8 plus board just fried a stepper driver. Would you recommend this or the lerdge board? And I have a raspberry pi. It would connect via WiFi with these newer boards? Thanks.
@@JaySuk board ordered and on the way. I just would like to keep using the spaghetti detective if possible. And make time lapses. Old setup was pi4 with pi cam. Fly board doesn’t have a usb B port. Guess my work around would be an adapter to the mini usb?
@@ryanpeterson1051 there's duetlapse for doing timelapses of the print. The only way to get spaghetti detective to work would be using octoprint and RRF isn't really optimized for that.
Great video!! I know it's an older board but could you cover the RAMPS 1.6 Plus board? Sadly I accidentally fried my RAMPS 1.4 by leaving my Octoprint Server USB plugged in when cutting my old probe off to replace it and puff the magic smoke. I see connectors in my future, probably would have saved me the heartache. I purchased a RAMPS 1.6 Plus and am still able to use my TCM2208 stepper drivers but am trying to figure out if I can use any of the jumpers to take advantage of features on my TCM2208 drivers, UART etc without having to soldier anything. After RTFM I finally figured out how to add the jumpers as it's different from the RAMPS 1.4. I'm also hoping my board that is a V.2 has the 5v to VCC fixed that was shorting out/overloading the MEGA board causing it to turn-off. Maybe cover it using the 32bit version MEGA board or whatever it's called that's a 32bit version, I think it's black in color. You could put it on the LOG 3D printer. Thanks!!!
Question ! :) I was comparing the BTT 2208s to the Fly 2208s and some of the pins dont match up, does that matter, or just as long as the corner pins match up ? Thanks man !
Could you name the main advantages of RRF as compared to e.g. Klipper? The webinterface if course, but in terms of printspeed or quality? Any major differences?
I really can't say, I haven't used Klipper for a couple of years. Normal everyday print quality, probably not much difference at all. Now if you want to use some of the Klipper features and print really fast, it's going to be the way to go.
@@ChrisRiley As Klipper can run with DWC too, that‘s probably the best thing to do. The only advantage would be the cheaper ESP module in comparison to a RasPi. Maybe someone, if not Kevin himself, will release a port of Klipper that can run on ESP. Thanks for your response and keep up the great work. A lot of what I learned about 3DP, I learned from you. Thx bro!👍🏻
Hi Chris Its me again. I had issues with the WDC on the e3 pro v3 for 2 weeks and i think ive solved all of it. First i was having trouble with constant disconnections and later with the printer not connecting at all. I have followed the Duet recomendations and after a M122 the wifi strength was -71dbm. I have changed the position of the antenna and now its -43 dbm. Also with the M587 ive found that there was 2 SSID stored (my other wifi that i didn't remember having stored before), so i deleted it with an M588. Finally with wire shark found that the disconnections where due to MDNS fails. I switched from ender3.local to a fix IP address (manually asigned an ip address from the router lan restrictions for MAC address not the board) and that was it. Now its runing perfect again. Sorry for the very poor english but i think it will help someone. P.S I have a orange pi 4 lts on the way to try klipper.
@Chris Riley SPI drivers like TMC2130 or TMC5160 aren't supported yet, only in standalone mode. you might wanna mention that in your video. TMC21xx might never be supported at all according to the github, I'm desperately waiting for TMC5160 support, which are supposedly on the "list" but not implemented yet.
Kool video. Looks like nice Board and driver. Not too impressed with the gui on the screen, but I guess that is what the DWC page is for. You must have an armada of benchies by now. Side question. @26:26 you mention 'not every router supports it' , I assume not every router supports using the hostname vs ip address. What is that feature called? I am having an issue connecting using my android phone ( not win10) using hostnames but all works using ip address. this might help me duckduckgo the answer.
Real man are using the vi Editor and the config files and no GUI. I'm joking. Why use a handsaw when you have a chainsaw available. This board will be my next board that I buy. I love the fast and easy configuration.
i absolutely love this board. the fly/mellow team provide excellent customer service and support. after having 3 skr boards die due to poor moffets, this was my upgrade and i couldn’t be happier paired with the mellow/fly 2209 drivers. in my opinion a total game changer.
That is great to hear they have good customer service.
Maybe mellow have a good customer service as its all in Chinese language lool Chris is the best at it .
Hi Chris. Ive got the Fly E3 PRo v3 a month ago. Its super silent and im loving RepRap. I coudnt get the stock diplay to work to date but im totally fine with the DWC. One little thing that i love is that on the config.g of different filaments i can store different PID values and it changes imediatly. The bed mesh compensation works like magic too.
Thanks a lot for your tips and time.
Thanks for sharing!
For HE PID Tuning you should use T0 instead of the heater. RRF will also kick on the Parts cooler in a later phase of Tuning and take it also into consideration. Apart from that, great video as always. :)
Thanks for the tip! 🙂
I like the board and layout, only thing if want more is a second extruder.
I was thinking the similar thoughts, wanting to replace the 2560-based main board on my dual-Z dual-E Tronxy.
There's a Fly-CDY-V2 board which is quite similar to the E3 but setup with two E drivers, NeoPixel and Laser connectors, and both EXP1+EXP2 connectors.
@@anthonyrich1592 interesting...
They come out with new boards often, we will see if we get a bigger one. If I see one I will report back.
@@ChrisRiley thanks, mate, that would be great. This installation looked pretty painless so I reckon the CDY-V2 experience would be pretty similar.
Seems like there are three different versions of the board supporting PT100, NTC or K-type thermocouple temp sensors, so people would need to figure out what they've got before they order.
Get their it board that not that much more expensive. That thing is overkill. I think it can do like the gtr around 12 spots for extruders or whatever you want. I was going to get that one but I already have the duet wifi, gtr v1
Thanks to your and Teaching Tech's instructions, it was easy to setup.
I like this board a lot.
The actual hotend and bed temperature however are 10% lower than the requested values.
This is because of e small design error: Mellow did put 1k resistors in series with the thermistors. You can short circuit R18 and R20 to correct this. (FLY-E3-PRO!)
Safer is it to correct the T value in config.g.
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 becomes M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T90000 B4092.
As you can see I have added the correct beta value as well. This is for a type 1 thermistor used on most machines.
For the heater you can do a similar thing
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 becomes M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T90000 B4092
Regard,
Yits.
Good to know! Thanks for your insight.
Thank's Chris, an interesting and cheap route into RepRap £34.32 for the board and 2209's in the UK delivered.... an upgrade on my i3 clone I think.....
Let us know how it goes. Thanks
YESSS ! I have the FLY-CDY sitting right here :D
Woo Hoo!
Thank you so much for your video, thanks to him I was able to properly set up my printer.
That's great! Thanks for watching
Dude...you rock. Was about to pull trigger on skr board based on your other video, so will likely order this one. Drag that delivery is 6 weeks out.
Glad I could help
Hi Chris, long time no see.. I have been quiet in 3d printed world. but wanted to thank you for all the tips you gave us for last several years..
Good to see you. Thanks for watching
I love your vids man. You take time to explain it all! Not saying anything about the other people's channels, but yours is definitely the first thing I check before doing installs.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching
Really like the expansion on the back of this board, Great Video, appreciate all the options you present for the Ender 3 ! stay safe Chris !
Thanks, you too
I don't find the plug to attach the filament runout sensor. No free neopixel port either....
The video is very helpful and with it I could easily install my board on an Ender 3 Max. Thx Chris!
I heard they might make one of these with more pin available stay tuned for that one.
@@ChrisRiley There is a pro version on Aliexpress on preorder. For the filament sensor I can use a unused pin of the serial screen or the generic ender display. Maybe BTT RRF E3 is the better choice.
@@ChrisRiley Fly RRF Pro has arrived here. Hope you will get one soon and make a review.
Wow Chris , nice job and seems like a really nice board! Have fun and be safe!
Thanks, you too!
Great content again. Best 3d printer channel there is.
Wow, thanks!
Its best to plug in the WIFI antenna, you will damage the module if you run it without one. Thats just a general rule of thumb for things that transmit RF signals. Receivers can't get damaged without an antenna, but things that transmit can and will degrade the components from heat build up since there is no where for the signal to radiate from.
Thanks!
This is really cool! I just wish I had known about this before I did my SKR-RRF project.
Maybe later down the road. Thanks for watching
I wish I knew about this channel a few days earlier before I order a duet 2 wifi clone.
Still a good board. Thanks for watching
Just ordered this. Been looking for it and the screen since November. Finally pulled the trigger last week. It's on its way from China to go in my lulzbot taz. And i just bought a Rambo 1.3l. Wanna buy a Rambo board? 😂
Nice, actually I would buy it if I didn't have one already.
I need something easy for sure
RRF might be a little more straightforward.
I played with the RRF on my 1.4t, mostly worked out. Biggest issue I had was getting it to play nice with the EZABL pro and getting the grid working correctly. I'll have to look and see if there has been any improvement. The onboard wifi module would allow me to keep the tft connected.
Yes, TFT should still work.
Looks pretty sweet. Those duet menu files for the 12864 screen do look incredibly similar to a set I created last year....
these are the menu files github.com/jadonmmiller/UltimateDuetMenuSystem/releases/tag/V1.00
Thanks @jay S for the assist.
Chris, I know how to adjust Sensorless Homing sensitivity in Marlin (TMC2209) But I can't seem to find the Gcode to use to set it in RRF? I did read it is a number between -65 to 64 while Marlin is 0-256.
Make sure your endstops are set to S3, then use M915 reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M915:_Configure_motor_stall_detection These are my settings for a Duet with 2660's. Core XY.
M574 X1 S3
M574 Y1 S3
M915 X S2.5 F0 H400 R0 ; X / Y Axes
M915 Y S2 F0 H400 R0
@@ChrisRiley You are GREAT! So most important M915 X S2.5 where I can change "S" to adjust the sensitivity!
I prefer the SKR 1.4 with RRF to be honest. There is a super good port created by fans, that is updated regularly as well. And you can use it with a Raspberry Pi to run Duet3 server :)
this is the same port. The STM32 processors are much more capable than the LPC processors found on the SKR 1.3/1.4
@@JaySuk Do you think it will be possible to hook up the Pi to this Fly board? And don't the SKR 1.4's have more inputs and outputs?
@@MarinusMakesStuff I haven't tried it with a pi TBH. But at the moment, there is no advantage to using a pi over this board with wifi. Its only when plugins start to be released that are pi only that a pi will become the better option. The SKR boards do indeed have more I/O's but this board is designed to be a drop in replacement for the Ender 3 so has size constraints. If you want more connections then go for the Fly-CDYv2 www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001701631493.html
Thanks for the assist here again Jay, great conversation.
@@JaySuk Looks interesting, a bit more expensive than the SKR 1.4 (and to be honest, I'm all for DIY so don't need a drop-in replacement) and since I'm used to working with the SKR 1.4 I'm quite hesitant to 'switch sides' haha. Although I like to have a broad experience.
But these things aside, I see the board you shared has more options than the SKR 1.4
I'm currently using the Pi to do 'TAMV' as an experiment, do you know it? I think it could be the future. So the setup I'm using now is the way to go, but maybe in the future these FLY boards will become a nice alternative to the beautiful Duet boards. Especially financially. I'll keep my eye on it, and if I ever decide to build that CoreXY printer I've been thinking of for so long with kinematically 4-point leveled bed, I might just get that FLY board with some extra outputs for the additional stepper drivers that it will need. Heck, maybe I'll even build a CoreXY where the bed is stationary and the whole CoreXY gantry moved up and down.. Who knows.
Thanks for the great video
Glad you enjoyed it
I performed all the actions from this video, first i went to the latest version of beta (leter then in the video) - the Display folder was not visible. After that I rolled back to the version from the video - 3.2_7, but the display folder is still not visible and I have no way to upload the menu files.
I entered mentioned commands into the board.txt and config.g
Would be glad to get any advice, thanks
My only guess is it's a problem with one of the releases. Try this stable version. github.com/gloomyandy/RepRapFirmware/releases/tag/v3.3.0_11
@@ChrisRiley yeah, that is the one I installed initially, but no dice :C
Thfnks for taking a look at my comment tho
Hello, I have problem with ender 5 with FLY-RRF. Everything work fine instead of printing and F2 fan(printing cooling)- on screen it's showing (-100%) of speed. So the problem is that when I start priting it generally be very slowly. The speed was set to 80mm/s but it's run 12mm/s at pik. I'm using Cura 4.9 and in setting change value to reprap firmware. I dont know what to do :/
CHeck your RAW gcode, make sure there are not M205 or M203 commands in the start gcode.
the video is great with all the right information as always, Just between you and i, It's kind of pointless to want to put RepRap firmware on such a board or printer, The whole idea of RepRap firmware, it is closer to a real CNC machine, like the ones you would find professional industrial tools such as Milling... in terms of G codes anyways, Rather pointless in a 3d printer especially in something like an Ender that will never be solid enough to be used for something other than a 3d printer. I might be wrong, there might have been other changes to the firmware since I last played around with it.
EDIT: Just for the record, I do agree with you about this board is a nice cost-effective 32bit board my only concern is the bed power mosfet, but that can be easily solved with an external one i guess lol
i don't understand you. its still a cnc machine, just not for subtracting but additive =) i feel like the wifi is cool, and also that you can change the stepper drivers.
@@certified-forklifter Think of it as putting high octane fuel in a geo metro, it has an internal combustible engine like an f1 and yet it's not. If you can give me 10 good reasons why a 3d printer would use on-the-fly Macro commands and all the other features the Reprap is well known for, lol I would be more than happy to change my mind.
@@patprop74 mh, well i understand you but i dont really agree. For that money, you can exchange your drivers and get wifi without any weird add ons or external Pi or so. RRF is quite powerful, as you said, but i dont see why you would not put it in a more basic printer like the ender.
Interesting points, I never really thought about the throw back to CNC aspects of it before.
Do u have a tutorial or a review about the fly super 8 please ?
Because u explain the best and thank u god bless.
Check the other comment on the Gemini. :)
Thanks
Thank you
It looks like they didn’t put on the IC for the pt100.. but that’s not what worries me.. do they really have no FUSE on it at all?
Great point. I will take that back to them.
Hello I have a mellow fly E3 pro and since there isn't a separate video for it ANYWHERE and this is all I could find I thought it was close to the same but it's not please make another vid for the E3 fly pro version of the board, inside ender 3 pro, lack of clear avalible info for the fly E3 pro has almost caused me to hook it all up wrong and I payed 90$ for it
I will look into this board.
At about 820 you mention soldered wires in terminal connectors, BRAVO! Now if we can only get the MFRs to do the same. :-)
No kidding, that would be a nice change.
great video!
Thanks for the visit
Steeper learning curve but seems very very flexible compared to marlin. Maybe an excuse to get a second ender 3
🙂👍
Hey, I realize this is awhile after you posted this but I got given a free ender 3 with this same FLY RRF-E3 installation done to it, but I didn't know the owner (Free craigslist) and can't figure out how to actually use the software (pronterface) to connect it to my wifi as no port pops up. I'm a mechanical engineer but good lord did I not know what I was getting into with this lol. Thanks for any possible help or thoughts.
Hey, there might be an issue with the driver they use to communicate with it. See if these video helps get you back to taking with it via USB. ua-cam.com/video/UPu7_RPE1d0/v-deo.html
I bought 2 of the board kits with screens.does anyone now the max Watts for a 24v bed heater pad? I am looking at a 24v 350W version. Thank You! TWOTREES make one as well as a few others in my 300x300mm bed size.
I reached out to the vendor. They said they wouldn't push it past 10amp, so that would be 240w.
Chris, your video details is the best by far.
I have a scenario though, what happens if ones internet provider can't provide internet for a few hours, or a router is broken until a replacement is bought, how does one connect to the printer?
Struggling to wrap my head around non-Marlin firmware
or, would it be possible to run Marlin on this board?
You can't run Marlin on this one, but the internet/network connection going down won't affect your printer if it printing. You will have to have an LCD to interact with it while the network is down.
Great video, one thing to note is that the board won't flash without vin power. This took me awhile to figure out because I was trying to test the board before installing it.
Good tip! Thanks
Nice video, really enjoy the instructions you give in detail. Do you know how close the Ender 3 is in comparison to the Artillery Sidewinder x1, latest version? Thanks.
I don't, the Sidewinder has changed a couple of times, I have the original one. Not sure if it uses ribbon cables for its screen or anything.
hey @Chris Riley, how does the touch screen feel in the FLY RRF vs BigtechTree touch screen? which one is better?
I like the one on the fly better, it seem a little thicker and is very responsive.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you Chris. I have ordered fly and waiting for it :-) Your videos are really helpful ! Keep up the good work !
Stock Anet A8 plus board just fried a stepper driver. Would you recommend this or the lerdge board? And I have a raspberry pi. It would connect via WiFi with these newer boards? Thanks.
I would be then i am bias. There is no need for a raspberry pi with these boards. they can be operated standalone
I personally wouldn't go Lerdge, I like these RRF boards better.
@@JaySuk board ordered and on the way. I just would like to keep using the spaghetti detective if possible. And make time lapses. Old setup was pi4 with pi cam. Fly board doesn’t have a usb B port. Guess my work around would be an adapter to the mini usb?
@@ryanpeterson1051 there's duetlapse for doing timelapses of the print. The only way to get spaghetti detective to work would be using octoprint and RRF isn't really optimized for that.
is this plug, config, play with the original cr-10 too?
It will work, but it will have a smaller build volume set. That should be a quick config update.
Great video!! I know it's an older board but could you cover the RAMPS 1.6 Plus board? Sadly I accidentally fried my RAMPS 1.4 by leaving my Octoprint Server USB plugged in when cutting my old probe off to replace it and puff the magic smoke. I see connectors in my future, probably would have saved me the heartache. I purchased a RAMPS 1.6 Plus and am still able to use my TCM2208 stepper drivers but am trying to figure out if I can use any of the jumpers to take advantage of features on my TCM2208 drivers, UART etc without having to soldier anything. After RTFM I finally figured out how to add the jumpers as it's different from the RAMPS 1.4. I'm also hoping my board that is a V.2 has the 5v to VCC fixed that was shorting out/overloading the MEGA board causing it to turn-off. Maybe cover it using the 32bit version MEGA board or whatever it's called that's a 32bit version, I think it's black in color. You could put it on the LOG 3D printer. Thanks!!!
Glad you figured it out, I don't remember what they call the 32b one, but I can give it a search.
Question ! :) I was comparing the BTT 2208s to the Fly 2208s and some of the pins dont match up, does that matter, or just as long as the corner pins match up ? Thanks man !
There might be a little difference in badging, but I think that should be close to the same. I will have to compare mine.
@@ChrisRiley I got some Fly2209s..... time to test :D lol
is his install and config the same for the Fly RRF E3 pro
It would be very close.
how about the wifi speed while uploading gcode file?
It's pretty good, maybe a little slower than the Duet, but totally useable.
Could you name the main advantages of RRF as compared to e.g. Klipper?
The webinterface if course, but in terms of printspeed or quality? Any major differences?
I really can't say, I haven't used Klipper for a couple of years. Normal everyday print quality, probably not much difference at all. Now if you want to use some of the Klipper features and print really fast, it's going to be the way to go.
@@ChrisRiley As Klipper can run with DWC too, that‘s probably the best thing to do. The only advantage would be the cheaper ESP module in comparison to a RasPi. Maybe someone, if not Kevin himself, will release a port of Klipper that can run on ESP.
Thanks for your response and keep up the great work. A lot of what I learned about 3DP, I learned from you. Thx bro!👍🏻
Hi Chris Its me again. I had issues with the WDC on the e3 pro v3 for 2 weeks and i think ive solved all of it.
First i was having trouble with constant disconnections and later with the printer not connecting at all.
I have followed the Duet recomendations and after a M122 the wifi strength was -71dbm. I have changed the position of the antenna and now its -43 dbm.
Also with the M587 ive found that there was 2 SSID stored (my other wifi that i didn't remember having stored before), so i deleted it with an M588.
Finally with wire shark found that the disconnections where due to MDNS fails. I switched from ender3.local to a fix IP address (manually asigned an ip address from the router lan restrictions for MAC address not the board) and that was it.
Now its runing perfect again.
Sorry for the very poor english but i think it will help someone.
P.S I have a orange pi 4 lts on the way to try klipper.
That's great, thank you for your contribution.
😇💪
Thanks!
Hello Chris. Thank you for your video. Can you make video with connection & settings 3Dtouch +rrf. Wiki from RepRap is bad information
This should help some, I will work it into a future video. ua-cam.com/video/zJ1Rtikn2AA/v-deo.html
So many thanks for this video ! I would have done anything without it ! Now I just have my extruder reversed...Anyidea where it comes from ?
I tried to reverse it in the config tool, but it doesn't change anything...
Paste your M584 and M569 lines in here and I will take a look.
@@ChrisRiley M569 P0 S0
M569 P1 S0
M569 P2 S1
M569 P3 S0
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3
I think that something overrides it... I put "M569 P3 S0 " in the cura's printer settings, and now it works...
@@LeboisRacingFR Check your config-override file.
Great video Chris !
Where does the rainbow ribon plugs into that is near the LCD in the video at time 24:57 ?
never mind. i think it is not connected to anything and is for old LCD.
🙂👍
@@ChrisRiley just wanted to know which touch screen is better, is it the Fly RRF or Bigtechtree ?
@@singhrobotics I like the FLY better myself.
Would you recommend this or the rrf pannucutt board?
definitely this. The panucatt G2C is stuck on RRF2
Thanks Jay.
FLY-CDY V2. PLEASE CREATE VIDEO GUADE WITH12864 FUUL GRAFICS +12864MINI FUSETS /BTT
I will see what I can do.
@chris, any chance you could do a follow-up video on how to configure the bltouch for this on the ender-3 (pro)?
There is another board like this coming out, I can do the bltouch install then.
@@ChrisRiley great video thanks a lot! @14:30 you talk about another video about bltouch, do you have a link to this video?
Hi @@ChrisRiley, Do you mean the FLY E3 Pro?
@@Timmmmhhhuuee try this ua-cam.com/video/zJ1Rtikn2AA/v-deo.html
@@cheo7811 Not sure what they call it or if it is out yet. I will be an RRF board.
@Chris Riley SPI drivers like TMC2130 or TMC5160 aren't supported yet, only in standalone mode. you might wanna mention that in your video. TMC21xx might never be supported at all according to the github, I'm desperately waiting for TMC5160 support, which are supposedly on the "list" but not implemented yet.
Expect to see TMC5160 support as part of the 3.3 release
@@JaySuk big thanks for that information, I can't wait for it, having the drivers laying around for a while now. 👍
Thanks for your support guys!
Kool video. Looks like nice Board and driver. Not too impressed with the gui on the screen, but I guess that is what the DWC page is for. You must have an armada of benchies by now.
Side question. @26:26 you mention 'not every router supports it' , I assume not every router supports using the hostname vs ip address. What is that feature called? I am having an issue connecting using my android phone ( not win10) using hostnames but all works using ip address. this might help me duckduckgo the answer.
2.4G wifi
it's called mDNS
@@JaySuk Thanks Jay. I thought that was it, not too sure.
@@fly3478 thanks for the reply. I think Jay hit the answer I was looking for.
🙂👍
can i run marlin on this?
I'm not sure if Marlin supports this one yet or not.
@@ChrisRiley it's ok i decided to switch to kilper witch is supported
Here I am going backwards. Duet 2 running klipper.
Whatever works right?
Real man are using the vi Editor and the config files and no GUI. I'm joking. Why use a handsaw when you have a chainsaw available.
This board will be my next board that I buy. I love the fast and easy configuration.
You got it! Thanks for watching
FLY-CDY V2. PLEASE CREATE VIDEO GUADE
I will see what I can do.