Ender 3 Series Part 5 - Extruder / Maintenance - Chris's Basement
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- Опубліковано 3 січ 2025
- We continue our Ender 3 Series by tackling an issues and doing a bit of a maintenance replacement. We Start with an Extruder Upgrade and then we go around and replace all the V Wheels on our Ender 3.
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I'd suggest loosening the V wheels on your Z axis until you're just able to turn the wheels by hand with the gantry held still, and then try that print again. Overtightening can cause the kind of banding you're seeing on the before and after prints.
More to come on this, I am trying to get to a point where this will all make since.
this is how i do it for years already, 5+ years and still didn't replace the v wheels and the print quality is still amazing for almost 24h a day printing...
I have a coreXY that I put polycarbonate wheels on (not from open builds) about 4 months ago. I wouldn't say they're bullet proof, but for sure there is a difference in wear resistance. Time will tell if they were worth the extra $10, I guess it depends on how you feel about maintenance. However I will say I have noticed that the polycarbonate definitely is stronger and have less wear compared to the delran wheels.
Interesting, I am thinking about building one with PC wheels just to see how it goes.
Thank you so much! that cracked extruder part was what was causing my issues for months!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching
At 28:48, what causes those bands at about 2cm up from the bottom of the bust? I have been seeing them on my prints and have no idea what causes them. They usually happen just after a certain feature on the model, like an extrusion, ends and the layers above are smooth
They used to happen with my prints when I used cura. I moved to prusaslicer and just use the built in standard quality for the ender 3 and my prints are flawless. Also, if you're printing at 100% flow, try knocking it down to 90%. All my prints got better and parts fit better (no more filing and sanding to get multi-part prints to fit).
Take a look at the flow rate data in Prusa slicer. It shows where it goes up to do some infill cover. That is usually the cause.
Chris, take out your z rod, clean it up really well and the copper bushing on the gantry, then relube the z rod and reinstal. See if that helps with those artifacts towards the bottom of the print.
Thanks for the tip!
Chris, good review on how to change all of the V slot wheels, At the very end when you compared the prints, it almost looked like slicer problems, they both had the same defects in the same spots
It could be, with all changes come great amounts of tuning. LOL
Chris. Thank you. I wend with metal extruder about 6 months ago. Not thinking those parts could crack but jus being plastic wear out of spec on my Ender 3 pro. Just ordered skr1.4 turbo with TMC 2226 drivers. Now have to rewatch vids of the code editing and VS CODE?
Nice, that will be a great upgrade.
@@ChrisRiley Can I use same code tweeks that you showed for 2209 with 2226? I left comment on part 2. I wont give up I'll try again
@@bruceyoung1343 Yes, same tweaks for 2209 and 2226 they are very close to one another.
@@ChrisRiley THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Chris. I just received my Ender extender kit. A few days ago the SKR 1.4 Turbo board came also. Which would you recommend me to install first?
Perfect timing!!!! The plastic lever on mine just broke, a few days ago. Wow!!! Were your ears burning.. LOL! Thank you, Chris!
Glad I could help!
It was precisely because of problems with these wheels that I decided to go for linear rails instead. I now have them on all three axes and I know that I'll never have any issues with them like I did with the wheels. Expensive, but worth it for the peace of mind, reliability, and consistency.
Nice! A great way to go.
Good things to watch.
Question: How often do you think basic maintenance on an Ender should be performed? (as in how many hours of printing between servicing?)
I would think every 200 hours or so you should probably check things over, make sure everything is still tensioned and clean.
I read all of the comments and think another option is the ExoSlide kit for the Ender 3. It is expensive, but adds a second Z screw and I think is better than cheap linear rails.
True, I didn't think about it, but I would like to compare that option.
Personally after the wheels wore out, I wasn’t very attracted to replacing them with expensive new ones. I actually went linear rails on all axis, which was about 100$ in cheaper rails with new ball bearings and custom designed some CNC’d z plates, along with a few printed parts. Haven’t had to worry about my motion system since. Although I do see the value in being able to swap out wheels on a per axis basis for people who don’t want to spend to much at one time. Anyway excellent video! I hope you keep this series up.
Thanks! Not a bad way to go at all.
I've had bad luck with cheaper wheels from a couple different companies. The OpenBuilds wheels are pricey, but are definitely higher quality.
FYI, Delrin is self-lubricating and is actually used as bushings in some applications. Adding some light oil to the rail won't hurt the Delrin, but might attract a little dust.
Agree, 100%, if I oil these I use very little.
Very nice and thanks for the vid.
Thank you!
"So if you really want to go overkill, your that type of person". Guilty as charged. I enjoy the tinkering upgrade process. Sensibility is not my concern.
Me too!
Rad, nice one man, thank you. Seriously useful help. Noticed the Zildjians, you in a metal band by chance?
Thanks! Yeah, I had a band back in the day. I played hard rock think, Foo Fighters and Stone Temple Pilots.
I have two Ender 3s and when my V wheels wear out, I'm planning on upgrading to linear rail bearings for both the X and Y axes.
Great, good luck on your project!
@@ChrisRiley Thanks! Love your channel. Keep up the great work!
I am guessing that if you are buying cheaper linear rails this probably isnt much more expensive than replacing all the vwheels with the OpenBuilds vwheels. That is just a guess, and if you are replacing one or two vwheels then its probably smart to stick with vwheels, but if you are replacing most/all then I am guessing you are not going to spend too much more than Chris did to replace all his vwheels.
@@jon9947 I plan on using the TwoTrees rails. They're low end rails with mixed reviews, but they should be serviceable. Most positive reviews had good results after cleaning and re-lubing. At $20 a piece on Amazon it will only be $60 to switch over (if printing the adapter brackets).
@@dr3ifach Sounds like the smart thing to do, not that much more than replacing the vwheels plus you will never have to worry about replacing them again or retensioning them. Occasionally relubing them, but that is pretty simple to do.
Cameras like coffee too!
I think so!
Why not go with a linear rail upgrade if the cost is already that high?
Not a bad option, it might be a little harder to dial in.
@@ChrisRiley True, I was sad to see that replacing them didn't improve the prints though. I have experienced basically the same thing with everything I've replaced not improving the print quality. Looking forward to figuring out what the problem is.
Hi Chris, I have recently watched your touchscreen mod for octoprint. I am using the Miuzei Raspberry Pi 4 Touch Screen and when I boot up the octoprint image it just keeps flickering blue and some sort of message and before I can read it, it turns off and starts again. I was wondering if this is a common issue or if it's just the screen. On amazon it said it worked with Octopi. Would really appreciate some help on this.
Not sure on that screen, but it's usually a driver issue, give installing it another try.
As far as I could see your problem with all three prints is under extrusion. Check the extruder, the Bowden tube and flow rate in your slicer. You can even check the flow in the Hotend.
Thanks! 🙂
One thing that always bothered me about eccentric nuts, why is there no timing mark to indicate position? Any time I've done this procedure on a machine I always use a metal stamp to designate the short side of the stroke. Of course you want to have a shaft in the nut before striking to prevent deformation; ask me how I know. 🙄
I hear that! That seems like such an easy thing to add, just a mark would help greatly.
I bought a whole bag of 12 wheels and bearings for less than $20 on Amazon. They work just as good as the stock wheels/bearings. I just checked. There are multiple options. I even saw 20 for $30.
Sweet! Thanks Brian
Mine is all metal! I only paid $95 for my RepRapGuru i3 printer new off eBay. While RepRapGuru is no longer around, they made some good decisions and some bad (5mm threaded rods). Nice video!
I have never heard of them, interesting setup. Thanks!
Awesome content Chris, thank you for this great video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you
Chris Riley - President and 3CPO of Chris’ Basement 🙃
Strange those lines....looks like Z problems? But why only on the little band there under the middle? 🧐
Is the extrusion damaged or bent at that Z height by any chance?
I like 3CPO, LOL! More to come on this.
Chris the flat of those wheels are not the wear point.
Not sure what this means Karl.
I think he was just checking the manufacturing tolerance between all the stock wheels.
Thanks for the Video.
You bet!
I pointed out to a YTber the wear on his X-axis wheels and was told it wasn't worn but dust as his printer had been sitting idle, he must be the only person in the world who has dust falling underneath his wheels, it was clearly wearing away but I don't think he wanted to admit that he had set his wheels too tight.
🙂
Hi, 200 usd printer, 130 usd+shipping wheel&bearing replacement :) maybe when time comes linear rails better option i think :), thank you.
It could be a better way to go.
Excited to follow along on this ender 3 journey 😁
More to come!
The extruder is the problem
You think?
those wheels are ridiculously priced, and I doubt they are that much different compared to brand new chinese ones. hack they are probably made in china too. To be fair these "high end" ones will eventually wear like those chinese ones.
Sorta, but no. Used both and the open builds WAY outlast cheapos. Not so much the face wear, but the bearings are much higher quality. Also the wheels are “true”. Had some amazon cheapos that right off the bat had wobble as the wheel center was off.
As @3dprinting Llama states, you get what you pay for. Thanks Thom.
@@ChrisRiley that's just what you want to believe, but no in reality these just don't costs 10 times more to produce.
Throw out the wheels and put rails on it !!
👍🙂
Stop touching the table surface with your hands!!!😬
Thanks for watching