Another tip is to re crimp the rivet if the supporting disc is able to twist in the diaphragm due to shrinkage, if it’s loose enough to freely rotate it’ll likely leak
Good tip, usually I just replace them with new ones, but some on older machines are getting harder to get so this could be useful, depending on how long it would work I suppose that changes from one machine to another. Good video 🙂👍
Not just diaphragms, many things made of rubber respond this way - but only temporarily unfortunately. That can be useful, for example to install something that needs to be stretched into place. In my experience, complete hardness will return before long. I haven't tried, but could it be that the products made to rejuvenate hard oil seals might work better? These contain a "seal swell" ingredient, added into car gearboxes for example. I've also heard that wintergreen (methyl salicylate) can usefully soften hardened rubber.
@99nad, thanks a million for that tip about using methyl salicylate (Wintergreen) instead of brake fluid for softening rubber long-term. I actually have some creams that contain it, used for aches and pains in your joints and muscles
I'll try the wintergreen for inlet rubbers. Ester oil softens and swells elastomers whereas PAO oils tended to harden and shrink them until gasket compatibility became part of oil certification.
If you can't find the part you need, you can use the one you have as a template. I used to reman carbs back in college and we used to grind off the metal plate in the center of a diaphragm, make the new one from another diaphragm using a hole punch (gasket making kit) and them attach the old metal center part.
@@AyuPerezsaucedo When I rebuild a diaphragm, I remove as little metal as I can. I start with a small chisel and hammer. I hit the center of the diaphragm towards the center. Then, if needed, I grind away a any part of the center that is still holding the diaphragm together. A punch in the very center, usually gets the two metal parts to separate from each other. Then I replace the rubber part, usually from one pulled from a new part. Then red Loctite and pound the center metal back to where it holds it together. I never polish them, but you can create a nice smooth surface with a Dremal with a grinding tip.
Very nice demonstration and discussion of when this makes sense or doesn't. You are totally right, often people only need that tool that has dried out and gone crusty for just a weekend or so. If you've gone off to a cabin in the woods, you may not even have a mailbox or internet to order a new part. If you get it soaking overnight, you can probably get the use of it the next day.
Your small engine carb was made by either Walbro or Zama. There are a few other makers, but those are the most common. I think it was Walbro that actually developed this pump in metal, so it eliminates the fault of it ever becoming stiff. The upgrade to metal is definitely worth it for small engines that sit stored during winter.
You totally blew my mind and are going to save equipment owners time, trouble and money . You also are saving the environment! Excellent discovery👍👌 you earned a subscriber.
I'm in Montana where we run vintage saws alot. I recently installed 4 cheap Chinese replacement carburetors. Two ran good, two did not. What is your opinion about the durablity of these carburetors? @@VintageEngineRepairs
Great save! I had a friend about 59 years ago tell me that as long as you are very careful of paint! He did it to Windshield wiper blades with great success.
Mack truck used to recommend brake fluid for fan belt dressing , but the old paints would get stripped right off by brake fluid. Not just discolored but totally stripped. I think that's why master cylinders were never painted
Old car mechanics trick. If you have gaskets or seals leaking, dump half quart of break fluid into your engine oil. It softens and swells rubber seals for a quick fix. As soon as the leak stops you change the oil and as soon as you can, you replace the bad seal. It is just to get you to your day off or payday but used car dealers used it to temporarily hide problems.
Before I store my saw, l drain all the fuel, unhook the fuel line, then start the saw. Then, take a turkey baster full of straight 2 stroke oil and force it through the carburetor until the saw dies. It will smoke like hell when you are doing this. This fills the diaphragm with oil and keeps it soft for years to come. Your saw will start again after a few pulls, after years of storage this way. My saw is 70 years old and still runs strong.
Thanks for sharing :) have you tried motomix or aspen fuel? I’d just run that through the system at the end of season and shut it off. That said, don’t change it if you are getting great results!
DO NOT...put that stuff in a shot glass !!!🤢🤢🤣 They sell a product here in the states named Trans-X that's an automatic transmission additive that I "assume" softens and possibly swells o-rings and seals. Don't know if it would work any better but may last longer. Used it in my high milage Subaru. Worked like magic and several thousand miles later it's still going strong. A good bit more expensive though. Once again, excellent video.👍🍻
Hey mate Bahaha yes don’t mistake it for drink or you’ll be off to the a&e! As I understand it, the alcohol softens the rubber and the oil penetrates it? I’m not certain though. Ah good stuff, do try that AT additive and let me know how you like it! Cheers for watching :)
Wear gloves when working with brake fluid. It can kill you over time. Also, if you are unfamiliar with it, it eats paint off of anything and can damage plastic as well.
Awesome video. Try to change the video title to something like "chainsaw and trimmer carb no-parts hack". I think you might get more views. Just a thought for a good test. I've got a channel also and the title impacts my views but I'm just starting out and learning.
Years ago, another youtuber "davids farm" used WD40 to soak diaphragms. I tried that with sort of OK success. Not a long term solution,, but more like a get out jail for free card.
Oh cool! That’s interesting that worked too, I’ll have to give it a go. Yes agreed, all these different soaking methods are just a get out of jail free card. Nothing long term :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks for the reply! I've tried both just to let you know. One thing that I haven't tried is this: On a machine that has been sitting up for a while and you know that the metering diaphragm is too stiff, I'm going to try to squirt some wintergreen oil through the little breather hole of the metal cover that covers this diaphragm and just put it away for a week or so. This would eliminate the need to disassemble anything. My question so far is whether the wintergreen oil will deteriorate anything - that I don't know yet and I haven't been able to find info on this online. Some people make a potion of alcohol and wintergreen oil. I think this is a dubious way to go because alcohol is the thing that hardened the material in the first place. Just pure wintergreen oil, and your whole workshop will smell either like an urgent care facility or an old geezer's home lol Another thing that I'd like to try is a suggestion from Chickanic where she pumps (with the little primer bulb) pure 2-cycle oil through the carb before storing the machine for the winter. She says this really works and the equipment works for "years" with little issue. Last thing for the readers here - always use alcohol free gasoline. Just make it yourself. In a vegetable juice plastic container (clear plastic) or similar, put 1/5 water to 4/5ths gasoline (this ratio is NOT critical), shake it, let it stand for 5 minutes or so, and decant the gas off of the mixture. (The water-gas interface will be very obvious.) 100% of the alcohol will find a home perfectly mixed in with the water. UA-cam University has videos on this. HTH
A little bit of brake fluid also softens internal seals on automatic transmissions, making the old transmissions shift better. Once Transmission starts shifting well again, change the fluid.
The best method that I've seen is a 3:1 IPA to essential wintergreen oil mixture to soften rubber. Problem with brake fluid is over time, the rubber will "sweat" out the brake fluid. The other method IMO, is more permanent, but more expensive.
Good tip I guess, but I can get a new diaphram for a few bucks within 1-2 days. But... Brake fluid? That stuff eats at rubber and plastic. Feel your better off with 2 stroke oil
This is great for those gaskets that aren’t easily accessible! Out in Aus, a carb kit can take weeks to arrive too! 2 stroke oil won’t soften diaphragms, you need the alcohol to soften the membrane and then the oil can penetrate. Thanks for watching!
The fool, which decided to ' add ethanol ' to gasoline, is TOTALLY RESPONSIBLE for all these, modern ' carb problems '. o well....such is modern hi-tech gadgetry......on with this.....
Your video is very useful. Can you tell the exact rubber material used in diaphragms? As the technique in the video only works for a short period. I am thinking of fabricating the pieces myself.
Hey, I’m sorry I really don’t know what material they use! You can buy it in sheets though :) I’m sure a search for small engine carburetor diaphragm material (then the thickness) should work!
It doesn't work. You can achieve some temporary softening of a polymer but the effect is not lasting simply because the plasticizers in the part that made it flexible have outgassed and it is not possible to open the molecules up and put them back in the molecular chain of the polymer.
It does work and as I mentioned, you can get a lot done within the timeframe that the repair will last. I have also explained the advantages and disadvantages behind this method and where it may or may not be an appropriate repair depending on someone’s situation.
Could also try a mixture of wintergreen oil and isopropyl alcohol. I used that for my carb boots on my 84 Honda Shadow a few months back because they were rock solid, and they are still very soft and pliable. Not sure if it would work in this case but worth a shot if it will last longer.
@@VintageEngineRepairs It definitely is more expensive. If I remember right the small bottle i got was around $15 U.S. it is reusable but if it is an old machine that you cant find new rubber for, that may be worth it though. Otherwise like you stated, just replace it.
As a old bike tech. Hard boots I did a few things sometimes is dremel the inner lip edge. to help push the carb in. Add some bearing grease to slide in. I’d heat em up with a propane torch. Did that most often. Or sometimes I’d place all the rubbers in a pot of boiling water and install them quickly one at a time. They’d be super soft but hot. For over 20 yrs this was my go too methods. Bearing grease also helped cover and clog up leaks especially on a old 2 stroke intake boot.
I wonder how well "Engine Oil Stop Leak" would work. In the States we have "Bar's Engine Oil Stop Leak". If you apply that stuff to your windshield wipers ever so often, your windshield wipers will last a few years.
Very interesting! I’d be keen to hear how you go! Though if windscreen wipers are rubber rather than a fuel resistant material, they may be easier to rejuvenate. Keep me updated with how you go!
Here in New Zealand we have to buy a new carburetor $77.00 , surely going to try this. I have tried it with silicon lubricant in a plastic bag for two months, did NOT work.
Yeah silicone won’t work. You need the alcohol to soften the diaphragm and then the oil to penetrate it. Silicone alone won’t do anything. Best of luck :)
Great idea I have just the thing to test this on as Ive been told I cant buy replacement diaphragm's for my very old Briggs and Stratton motor, well not in New Zealand anyway so I'll have to get one from the US
There is a product called 303 protectant, if you have the time to spray it on or soak it in this product, anything like a rubber diaphragm, the EPDM or rubber Serpentine belts, seals and the like even before you ever use it when they are already supple or if you need to rejuvenate it. It works great I've seen it used on tires a couple of times a year, even on the tread if you have the time to get up and and turn them around and spray it and and on the tread, I've seen tires tested where they've lasted three times longer than their normal wear. Older cars with the oil base High solids paint, when that paint gets oxidized and dull, I have taken rags and tested a small portion to make sure it doesn't damage the paint. By just barely dampening a cloth and then rubbing the paint down and got the paint to look like brand new by using brake fluid do not, do not, do not do that with water-based paint it will destroy the clear coat and the non clear coat paint does not farewell. Put an old 1970s Buick that is in good shape but has oxidized paint, responds wonderfully.
Why haven't i though of this !! Thank you this makes perfect sense and it will work so cool i love when i dont haft to buy parts to fix something use what you have and ive got plenty of dot 3 4 and 5 do u know if 1 is stronger than the other probably 3 the old school stuff my guess
You really had me scratching my head!!! Make Old, Dry & Hard Diaphragms As Soft As New Again! - man did i read that wrong - thought it was about female diaphragm! And "old, dry & hard"... what can you say about that? But then i read the creator's name, "Vintage Engine Repairs" and it made sense :)
Brilliant , very useful tutorial. Do you think a long soak (several months) could prevent it from rehardening? Thanks and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Bad idea ! Brake fluid on a mineral based rubber will continue to soften the rubber and eventually dissolve or crumble, I have tested this countless times and it is a bad idea. Mineral based oil on a brake fluid rubber is much worse !
Excellent video and presentation. Like you stated it's not permanent but it does have merit to the technique for sure. Good job! Now...I wonder if anyone has ever tried to make one out of thin rubber sheeting and a couple washers rivited together? You may have to retune the engine but I bet it would work! Later!.
Nice tip . I think I will try some of the 303 protectant . Have quite a few Chinese tools that never started after first winter of storage and got given to me. Can't buy the diaphragm, or if you can then it's fifty $ plus
Just a thought... Have you ever tried AT 205 reseal? AT 205 stops oil seal leaks, rejuvenates rubber. I have a check valve problem, I think I am going to give it a try.
@@ronniebarker79 Ah I missed it! I deleted about 10 of my videos that I felt weren’t anything of much value to people who watch my content and keeping ones that I thought were somewhat unique or interesting. I want less to be more so to speak :) cheers mate!
@@VintageEngineRepairs It's just a thought but it might be worth a try, or perhaps clean it off with a washing up liquid detergent, something good enough to wash it off but not to strong to leave residue. Brake cleaner leaves no residual matter behind so it should be clean, if your diaphragms only last roughly 7 days perhaps take one that has come to it's end and try it over again but using the cleaner as you no longer have any use for it you would be able to see if it remained pliable and if it made any difference. What you got to lose, always worth trying if it costs nothing, assuming you got brake cleaner that is.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Montgomery Ward is a company that made lawn equipment (rototills lawn mowers etc) and I think tractors too. They went out of business in 2000. My rototill model is from 1983. There are no parts for it anywhere 😂
Na - a couple weeks or so, but that’s quite a long time, long enough to get the replacement delivered, long enough to get your years supply of fire wood and long enough to diagnose running issues :)
I've found that the crunchy ones hardly ever come off intact even with a razor blade. Interesting though! Brake fluid also takes off permanent marker. Just get it washed off quick!
How interesting i have never had a diaphragm break / tear when peeling it off the gasket, I wonder if the ethanol you have in your fuel is the cause of yours tearing?
That was pretty interesting. I have to try it. How long will the diaphragm hold up after soaking it? Is it pretty much "like new" or does it wear away faster than a new one normally would? It's a cool idea either way! Have you had any contact with equipment that you did this to say... 6 months ago? Anything that saves a dollar is a dollar towards the next project.
Great questions mate, not sure how I missed your comment! Lasts a week or two and then it starts to stiffen. With new brake fluid, they tend to soften in 2-3 days. Hope it helps :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Still very cool. Sometimes temporary fixes are exactly what the doctor ordered. I live ~10 miles from a ginormous Amazon facility and "same day" is almost always an option.
I agree with you, but what happens if you can’t get the diaphragm? What if it’s a 4 week delay and you need to get a job done? This is where this tip is useful.
@@VintageEngineRepairs if I had that long a wait and had to have the saw then I would soak it in brake fluid as you did but I have so many saws I usually don’t run into that problem. I am waiting on parts right now for my Stihl 021 and Mantis tiller that I am rebuilding. I am putting a new Walbro WT215 on the 021 and need a gas tank, carb and diaphragms for the Mantis. I picked it up, cheap, but it needs some work. The 021 has been an ongoing restoration since Memorial Day. That sucker has more new parts on it than original parts. However, it got its first cutting job last weekend and did a good jo of it. It cut u some 6-8” seasoned oak logs at my youngest daughters house. I have restored it an 024 and 025 this year. Restored a MS 260 and 026 last year. Don’t think I do not have big saws - I do. Got a bevy of them up to and including 92 cc saws, several 70 and a bunch of 50 and 60 cc saws. I don’t have an 80, but close. I only lug these out when I need them. I have the bars to go with them, too.
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Would putting the brake fluid on a low heat help to shorten the softening time?...or would it do damage to the diaphragm?
@@robertjenkins5440 I’m not too sure!
I did this to a very crispy and crunchy potatoe chip. After a day it was soggy. This trick really works. 😉
Another tip is to re crimp the rivet if the supporting disc is able to twist in the diaphragm due to shrinkage, if it’s loose enough to freely rotate it’ll likely leak
Good tip, thanks for sharing!
How do You crimp it?
Thanks bro!!! Excellent!!
Awesome :)
Good tip, usually I just replace them with new ones, but some on older machines are getting harder to get so this could be useful, depending on how long it would work I suppose that changes from one machine to another. Good video 🙂👍
Best thing to replace them mate, without question :) this has its place for certain though, yep, old NLA diaphragms is a perfect example.
Not just diaphragms, many things made of rubber respond this way - but only temporarily unfortunately.
That can be useful, for example to install something that needs to be stretched into place.
In my experience, complete hardness will return before long.
I haven't tried, but could it be that the products made to rejuvenate hard oil seals might work better?
These contain a "seal swell" ingredient, added into car gearboxes for example.
I've also heard that wintergreen (methyl salicylate) can usefully soften hardened rubber.
Yep agreed :) thanks for sharing!
@99nad, thanks a million for that tip about using methyl salicylate (Wintergreen) instead of brake fluid for softening rubber long-term. I actually have some creams that contain it, used for aches and pains in your joints and muscles
I'll try the wintergreen for inlet rubbers. Ester oil softens and swells elastomers whereas PAO oils tended to harden and shrink them until gasket compatibility became part of oil certification.
If you can't find the part you need, you can use the one you have as a template. I used to reman carbs back in college and we used to grind off the metal plate in the center of a diaphragm, make the new one from another diaphragm using a hole punch (gasket making kit) and them attach the old metal center part.
Thanks for sharing! :)
Me puedes decir por favor cómo pules el centro el metal del centro del diagrama por favor gracias
@@AyuPerezsaucedo When I rebuild a diaphragm, I remove as little metal as I can. I start with a small chisel and hammer. I hit the center of the diaphragm towards the center. Then, if needed, I grind away a any part of the center that is still holding the diaphragm together. A punch in the very center, usually gets the two metal parts to separate from each other.
Then I replace the rubber part, usually from one pulled from a new part. Then red Loctite and pound the center metal back to where it holds it together.
I never polish them, but you can create a nice smooth surface with a Dremal with a grinding tip.
@@karljay7473you’re channel has no content..shoot
You mentioned how long it lasted but did not specify.or just to get you by did I miss something
Very nice demonstration and discussion of when this makes sense or doesn't. You are totally right, often people only need that tool that has dried out and gone crusty for just a weekend or so.
If you've gone off to a cabin in the woods, you may not even have a mailbox or internet to order a new part. If you get it soaking overnight, you can probably get the use of it the next day.
Spot on Andrew, it’s a great tip to get you out of trouble in many different instances :)
Everyone says you can just get a new one, or a new kit. But no one says where you can get them. Thanks for this video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Go to Amazon and type in the model of your carburetor :)
Your small engine carb was made by either Walbro or Zama. There are a few other makers, but those are the most common.
I think it was Walbro that actually developed this pump in metal, so it eliminates the fault of it ever becoming stiff.
The upgrade to metal is definitely worth it for small engines that sit stored during winter.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you.
You totally blew my mind and are going to save equipment owners time, trouble and money . You also are saving the environment! Excellent discovery👍👌 you earned a subscriber.
Thanks Saul! Glad to have you along on the journey! Welcome :)
Excellent! You have no idea how important this tip could be.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm in Montana where we run vintage saws alot. I recently installed 4 cheap Chinese replacement carburetors. Two ran good, two did not. What is your opinion about the durablity of these carburetors? @@VintageEngineRepairs
Keep in mind that brake fluid will ruin paint or furniture finish. Don’t do this on indoor furniture.
Spot on Larry! You’re absolutely right :)
Great save! I had a friend about 59 years ago tell me that as long as you are very careful of paint! He did it to Windshield wiper blades with great success.
Yea I have heard that too! I think it’s the alcohol in it that can damage bodywork!
Mack truck used to recommend brake fluid for fan belt dressing , but the old paints would get stripped right off by brake fluid. Not just discolored but totally stripped. I think that's why master cylinders were never painted
cheers alot machinery suffers non available diaphram kits
You’re welcome :)
Old car mechanics trick. If you have gaskets or seals leaking, dump half quart of break fluid into your engine oil. It softens and swells rubber seals for a quick fix. As soon as the leak stops you change the oil and as soon as you can, you replace the bad seal. It is just to get you to your day off or payday but used car dealers used it to temporarily hide problems.
How interesting! Thanks for sharing :)
That explains the importance of brake fluid use in brakes, it keeps the rubber components as they should be.
I love your videos! So happy I found them. Watched one and immediately subscribed!
That’s awesome!! Thank you :)
Before I store my saw, l drain all the fuel, unhook the fuel line, then start the saw. Then, take a turkey baster full of straight 2 stroke oil and force it through the carburetor until the saw dies. It will smoke like hell when you are doing this.
This fills the diaphragm with oil and keeps it soft for years to come. Your saw will start again after a few pulls, after years of storage this way. My saw is 70 years old and still runs strong.
Thanks for sharing :) have you tried motomix or aspen fuel? I’d just run that through the system at the end of season and shut it off. That said, don’t change it if you are getting great results!
@@VintageEngineRepairs I have tried the Stihl Motomix. It is a good fuel, but I just can’t justify $40 a gallon for it.
Great tip. What success have you had or have done or used to prolong piston / cylinder wear?
DO NOT...put that stuff in a shot glass !!!🤢🤢🤣
They sell a product here in the states named Trans-X that's an automatic transmission additive that I "assume" softens and possibly swells o-rings and seals. Don't know if it would work any better but may last longer. Used it in my high milage Subaru. Worked like magic and several thousand miles later it's still going strong. A good bit more expensive though.
Once again, excellent video.👍🍻
Hey mate Bahaha yes don’t mistake it for drink or you’ll be off to the a&e!
As I understand it, the alcohol softens the rubber and the oil penetrates it? I’m not certain though.
Ah good stuff, do try that AT additive and let me know how you like it!
Cheers for watching :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Shaken not stirred ? No ice !
Wear gloves when working with brake fluid. It can kill you over time. Also, if you are unfamiliar with it, it eats paint off of anything and can damage plastic as well.
Quite right, I need to take more caution with my hands / chemicals!
Awesome video. Try to change the video title to something like "chainsaw and trimmer carb no-parts hack". I think you might get more views. Just a thought for a good test. I've got a channel also and the title impacts my views but I'm just starting out and learning.
Bring back o rings with aichahol
Thanks for sharing!
Years ago, another youtuber "davids farm" used WD40 to soak diaphragms. I tried that with sort of OK success. Not a long term solution,, but more like a get out jail for free card.
Oh cool! That’s interesting that worked too, I’ll have to give it a go. Yes agreed, all these different soaking methods are just a get out of jail free card. Nothing long term :)
Wintergreen oil, 1 hour, and moderate heat works much better and is much more permanent. The brake fluid tends to sweat out of the material.
Thanks Paul! I’ll have to give it a go!
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thanks for the reply! I've tried both just to let you know. One thing that I haven't tried is this: On a machine that has been sitting up for a while and you know that the metering diaphragm is too stiff, I'm going to try to squirt some wintergreen oil through the little breather hole of the metal cover that covers this diaphragm and just put it away for a week or so. This would eliminate the need to disassemble anything. My question so far is whether the wintergreen oil will deteriorate anything - that I don't know yet and I haven't been able to find info on this online.
Some people make a potion of alcohol and wintergreen oil. I think this is a dubious way to go because alcohol is the thing that hardened the material in the first place. Just pure wintergreen oil, and your whole workshop will smell either like an urgent care facility or an old geezer's home lol
Another thing that I'd like to try is a suggestion from Chickanic where she pumps (with the little primer bulb) pure 2-cycle oil through the carb before storing the machine for the winter. She says this really works and the equipment works for "years" with little issue.
Last thing for the readers here - always use alcohol free gasoline. Just make it yourself. In a vegetable juice plastic container (clear plastic) or similar, put 1/5 water to 4/5ths gasoline (this ratio is NOT critical), shake it, let it stand for 5 minutes or so, and decant the gas off of the mixture. (The water-gas interface will be very obvious.) 100% of the alcohol will find a home perfectly mixed in with the water. UA-cam University has videos on this.
HTH
Thanks wish I had seen this video earlier I was trying to figure out the exact same thing simple simple thanks 👍👍👍
Glad it helped :)
A little bit of brake fluid also softens internal seals on automatic transmissions, making the old transmissions shift better. Once Transmission starts shifting well again, change the fluid.
Thanks for sharing :)
Yeah, you won’t have ANY leaks after you replace the transmission that the brake fluid destroyed!
Thanks ! I really needed that 😊 ! Trying to troubleshoot some of these older two strokes is almost enough to drive a person Batty !
Haha yes they can be tricky little buggers!!
The best method that I've seen is a 3:1 IPA to essential wintergreen oil mixture to soften rubber. Problem with brake fluid is over time, the rubber will "sweat" out the brake fluid. The other method IMO, is more permanent, but more expensive.
Yes I have heard of this too! I saw a video doing comparisons - very interesting!!
This is where Cost, time & Availability meet at a crossroads which is more important!!!! a nice tip to know anyway !!!
Vintage tip that really works well done mate!
Glad you liked it mate :)
Good tip I guess, but I can get a new diaphram for a few bucks within 1-2 days. But... Brake fluid? That stuff eats at rubber and plastic. Feel your better off with 2 stroke oil
This is great for those gaskets that aren’t easily accessible! Out in Aus, a carb kit can take weeks to arrive too! 2 stroke oil won’t soften diaphragms, you need the alcohol to soften the membrane and then the oil can penetrate. Thanks for watching!
The fool, which decided to ' add ethanol ' to gasoline, is TOTALLY RESPONSIBLE for all these, modern ' carb problems '. o well....such is modern hi-tech gadgetry......on with this.....
Yeah it’s bad!
Your video is very useful. Can you tell the exact rubber material used in diaphragms? As the technique in the video only works for a short period. I am thinking of fabricating the pieces myself.
Hey, I’m sorry I really don’t know what material they use! You can buy it in sheets though :) I’m sure a search for small engine carburetor diaphragm material (then the thickness) should work!
marvel mystery oil, it is marvelous
Have you tried it? I have heard it doesn’t work?
Iam doing this 2marrow. 😅
If you’re soaking it for a week, probably not necessary to write the month and year on BOTH dates! Redundant redundancy.
Thanks for watching
Great video! Is there anything that can be done to help prevent a diaphragm getting all crispy in the first place?
Thank you :) yes! Only use non ethanol fuel and try avoid storing fuel in the tank and carb. Run them dry once you have finished for the season.
Great tip!! Might come in handy since I'm a long ways from town.
Spot on, thanks for sharing Lon!
Cover the diaphragm with Vaseline and put in a sandwich bag for 24 hours. Wipe of& the excess and reinstall. Job done.
.
Have you actually tried that? I must admit I’m skeptical, but open to being proven wrong.
@@VintageEngineRepairs Nah . That;s how my Mum got regnant with me , lol .
It doesn't work. You can achieve some temporary softening of a polymer but the effect is not lasting simply because the plasticizers in the part that made it flexible have outgassed and it is not possible to open the molecules up and put them back in the molecular chain of the polymer.
It does work and as I mentioned, you can get a lot done within the timeframe that the repair will last. I have also explained the advantages and disadvantages behind this method and where it may or may not be an appropriate repair depending on someone’s situation.
Nice job Tom, I have a bucket full of old fuel line, filters and diaphragms, I'll have to try this wizardry on one. 🙂👍
Let me know how you mate :) thanks for stopping by!
Yes sir and anytime bud.
Great tip and with honest dependable afterwards
Thank you
Thanks for watching Kenny!
Thanks much. Will try 7 days.
Awesome, with fresh fluid, 3 may be more than enough :)
Good prepper information and advice
Spot on, you never know when you’ll need this tip!
Brown Mark Moore Robert Martinez Sarah
Thanks for watching.
WOW bud👍
Thank you for your good tip.
You’re welcome :)
Could also try a mixture of wintergreen oil and isopropyl alcohol. I used that for my carb boots on my 84 Honda Shadow a few months back because they were rock solid, and they are still very soft and pliable. Not sure if it would work in this case but worth a shot if it will last longer.
I have heard great things with that combo, but the wintergreen oil is crazy expensive!!
@@VintageEngineRepairs It definitely is more expensive. If I remember right the small bottle i got was around $15 U.S. it is reusable but if it is an old machine that you cant find new rubber for, that may be worth it though. Otherwise like you stated, just replace it.
As a old bike tech. Hard boots I did a few things sometimes is dremel the inner lip edge. to help push the carb in. Add some bearing grease to slide in. I’d heat em up with a propane torch. Did that most often. Or sometimes I’d place all the rubbers in a pot of boiling water and install them quickly one at a time. They’d be super soft but hot. For over 20 yrs this was my go too methods. Bearing grease also helped cover and clog up leaks especially on a old 2 stroke intake boot.
@@jefferyboring4410 Great advice! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
any idea which elastomer/s are responding well to the softening technique? quick google on the phone is not giving up the secret!
Yeah but how long will it last 4
Normally 2-3 weeks :)
I wonder how well "Engine Oil Stop Leak" would work.
In the States we have "Bar's Engine Oil Stop Leak". If you apply that stuff to your windshield wipers ever so often, your windshield wipers will last a few years.
Very interesting! I’d be keen to hear how you go! Though if windscreen wipers are rubber rather than a fuel resistant material, they may be easier to rejuvenate. Keep me updated with how you go!
Here in New Zealand we have to buy a new carburetor $77.00 , surely going to try this.
I have tried it with silicon lubricant in a plastic bag for two months, did NOT work.
Yeah silicone won’t work. You need the alcohol to soften the diaphragm and then the oil to penetrate it. Silicone alone won’t do anything. Best of luck :)
Why would waste your time I run small engine and mower shop and I buy them buy the pack of 100 for 12 bucks and can get them within 2 days
This isn’t intended for a commercial shop.
Great idea I have just the thing to test this on as Ive been told I cant buy replacement diaphragm's for my very old Briggs and Stratton motor, well not in New Zealand anyway so I'll have to get one from the US
Try Amazon :)
What i want to know is why wer a wolly hat in the middle of summer ! :)
It’s my winter 🤣
@@VintageEngineRepairs You must be getting soft ! Even winter down under is warm :P
There is a product called 303 protectant, if you have the time to spray it on or soak it in this product, anything like a rubber diaphragm, the EPDM or rubber Serpentine belts, seals and the like even before you ever use it when they are already supple or if you need to rejuvenate it. It works great I've seen it used on tires a couple of times a year, even on the tread if you have the time to get up and and turn them around and spray it and and on the tread, I've seen tires tested where they've lasted three times longer than their normal wear.
Older cars with the oil base High solids paint, when that paint gets oxidized and dull, I have taken rags and tested a small portion to make sure it doesn't damage the paint. By just barely dampening a cloth and then rubbing the paint down and got the paint to look like brand new by using brake fluid do not, do not, do not do that with water-based paint it will destroy the clear coat and the non clear coat paint does not farewell. Put an old 1970s Buick that is in good shape but has oxidized paint, responds wonderfully.
A friend told me about that actually! I never got it in the end, but thanks for sharing :)
Why haven't i though of this !! Thank you this makes perfect sense and it will work so cool i love when i dont haft to buy parts to fix something use what you have and ive got plenty of dot 3 4 and 5 do u know if 1 is stronger than the other probably 3 the old school stuff my guess
I’d say just use the newest stuff you have haha, good luck!
You really had me scratching my head!!! Make Old, Dry & Hard Diaphragms As Soft As New Again! - man did i read that wrong - thought it was about female diaphragm! And "old, dry & hard"... what can you say about that? But then i read the creator's name, "Vintage Engine Repairs" and it made sense :)
Lol! Whacky imagination but I did laugh 😂
Brilliant , very useful tutorial. Do you think a long soak (several months) could prevent it from rehardening? Thanks and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Hey! I don’t think so no! Thanks for commenting :)
Just asking why you make an 8 minute video when it could a just a couple. I don't post so wondered if there was some advantage to you
Hey, I don’t have a set time in mind, my videos are all different lengths, many of my more recent are 3-4 minutes as I have improved.
Kinda hoping to just add a little brake fluid to the gas/oil mix...Yes? No? Maybe?
Hey Ned, I wouldn’t do that no, I’d suggest taking the diaphragm out completely.
A hard and/or brittle diaphragm may be cracked and leak and will be a reason the carb does not function correctly.
Yep!
I have replaced toooooo many to remember that last diaphragm you say is new is used .! Fake .
I’m afraid you’re wrong, I took the new comparison diaphragm out of a box of 20 new diaphragms that I buy in bulk.
Bad idea ! Brake fluid on a mineral based rubber will continue to soften the rubber and eventually dissolve or crumble, I have tested this countless times and it is a bad idea. Mineral based oil on a brake fluid rubber is much worse !
I haven’t ever had a diaphragm crumble, they do soften though! Thanks for sharing :)
What about rubbing silicon grease into it after it's softened? Should keep it 'alive' for a lot longer.
I’m not sure! Give it a go and update me, I’d love to know!!
Wow, pretty cool...
If not going to live long 7 Days is a long time...
Normally it’s a few days, I didn’t realise that the brake fluid there was old ;)
Useful tip. Many thanks.
Thanks for watching Ben 👍
@@VintageEngineRepairs No worries!
Excellent video and presentation. Like you stated it's not permanent but it does have merit to the technique for sure. Good job! Now...I wonder if anyone has ever tried to make one out of thin rubber sheeting and a couple washers rivited together? You may have to retune the engine but I bet it would work! Later!.
Glad you liked it! Certainly give it a go and report back :)
Plain and simple alcohol damage, use straight gas to not have problem in the first place!
We don’t have alcohol in the fuel here
Good tip, thanks
Pleasure mate good to hear from you! Hey, grab yourself “CT 14” it’s the best cleaner I have found in my ultrasonic cleaner, it’s from Supercheap!
Those diaphrams in hand,one on left is zama,one on right is walbro
I haven’t watched this video in years so can’t remember what diaphragms I am holding lol
I have some DOT 5 silicone brake fluid left over from doing a brake fluid change on a motorcycle, do you know if that would work?
I’m not sure, I haven’t heard of silicone brake fluid! If it contains alcohol, yes :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Thank you, I'll research it more and maybe try it.
awesome tip; i restore old saws and this is one of the most useful things i have learned.
That’s great :) glad it helped!
What is the name of the hand tool you use to test pressure and vacuum on your carburettor ?please.
Mityvac :)
Nice tip . I think I will try some of the 303 protectant . Have quite a few Chinese tools that never started after first winter of storage and got given to me. Can't buy the diaphragm, or if you can then it's fifty $ plus
Let us know how you get on :)
How long does this 'repair' last?
It really depends on the condition and fuel. If your brake fluid is fresh the diaphragm softens in a couple days and you’ll get a good 1-2 weeks us.
I want to use it today, can I just put it in the brake fluid and put it in a double boiler and cook it?
Hey, I’m not sure! I wouldn’t but let me know how you go 😂
You should leave one in oil for over six months and see if it lasts longer. The reason six months is over winter to soak it
I’m not too sure it makes any difference, I think after a few days it will be fully saturated! Thanks for watching :)
Just a thought... Have you ever tried AT 205 reseal? AT 205 stops oil seal leaks, rejuvenates rubber. I have a check valve problem, I think I am going to give it a try.
I haven’t! Keep me updated :)
How about getting on with it and stop talking
Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching :)
Good helpful tip skip
Pleased you found it helpful!
@@VintageEngineRepairs did leave a comment on your note book 📖 vid but cant find it
@@ronniebarker79 Ah I missed it! I deleted about 10 of my videos that I felt weren’t anything of much value to people who watch my content and keeping ones that I thought were somewhat unique or interesting. I want less to be more so to speak :) cheers mate!
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😊👍
‘bucks’ 🇬🇧 - pretentious nonsense - otherwise great - 👍
Keith, how is it pretentious to use the word bucks?
@@VintageEngineRepairs he's just a Karen. Keep on with yourself and pay him no nevermind
Thanks for your tips, I will try them,thanks once again.
Pleasure :)
Put it on a shelf and show me how it looks in one year.
You can test that if you like lol
This is especially a good idea for saving gas engines in general, because of the stricter and stricter regulations coming out now.
Quite right mate! Spot on :)
Nice video im always willing to learn something new thanks for sharing with us and new sub
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video :)
Or maybe it would last longer if you washed it off with brake cleaner to remove all residue of the brake fluid.
I think you’d just strip it of the oils you just impregnated in it to soften it in the first place.
@@VintageEngineRepairs It's just a thought but it might be worth a try, or perhaps clean it off with a washing up liquid detergent, something good enough to wash it off but not to strong to leave residue.
Brake cleaner leaves no residual matter behind so it should be clean, if your diaphragms only last roughly 7 days perhaps take one that has come to it's end and try it over again but using the cleaner as you no longer have any use for it you would be able to see if it remained pliable and if it made any difference.
What you got to lose, always worth trying if it costs nothing, assuming you got brake cleaner that is.
My yard sale Montgomery Ward rototill engine: “Oh yeah, it’s all coming together”
I don’t quite understand your comment lol
@@VintageEngineRepairs Montgomery Ward is a company that made lawn equipment (rototills lawn mowers etc) and I think tractors too. They went out of business in 2000. My rototill model is from 1983. There are no parts for it anywhere 😂
Buy a new one, it's $6.
Not if they no longer sell them
Does this work when you get to old 😂
Sadly not 🤣😂
The biggest problem is a vacuum leak at the rivet ....
Very interesting, I have never once found that! I’ll keep that in mind :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs it's a fuel pressure vs vacuum thing , it'll die on decel , coming off full throttle ....
Sure they'll stay soft for a short while after this, but never very long!
Na - a couple weeks or so, but that’s quite a long time, long enough to get the replacement delivered, long enough to get your years supply of fire wood and long enough to diagnose running issues :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs Compared to YEARS for the life of a NEW part a couple of weeks is not You lose! Whee!
Chivas regal works too!
Cool! Thanks for sharing :)
I've found that the crunchy ones hardly ever come off intact even with a razor blade. Interesting though! Brake fluid also takes off permanent marker. Just get it washed off quick!
How interesting i have never had a diaphragm break / tear when peeling it off the gasket, I wonder if the ethanol you have in your fuel is the cause of yours tearing?
Maybe brush a little brake fluid on & around it. Just a thought.
@@pmaz-11 and get it off quick! The rest is wax and polish.🤠
I been putting oil all over the old pump it really does help alot
Glad it’s working well for you too!
Nice concepts of application of the idea itself! Thanks!
Thanks Darius!
Great tip, thanks.
You’re welcome:)
That was pretty interesting. I have to try it. How long will the diaphragm hold up after soaking it? Is it pretty much "like new" or does it wear away faster than a new one normally would? It's a cool idea either way! Have you had any contact with equipment that you did this to say... 6 months ago? Anything that saves a dollar is a dollar towards the next project.
Great questions mate, not sure how I missed your comment! Lasts a week or two and then it starts to stiffen. With new brake fluid, they tend to soften in 2-3 days. Hope it helps :)
@@VintageEngineRepairs So if I understand it right, it's good for a short term fix but not long term.
Exactly. Good for proof of concept or if you’re waiting for a new one to arrive, like here in Australia, that can take weeks
@@VintageEngineRepairs Still very cool. Sometimes temporary fixes are exactly what the doctor ordered.
I live ~10 miles from a ginormous Amazon facility and "same day" is almost always an option.
If I go into a carb it gets a new set of diaphragms. It is money well spent.
I agree with you, but what happens if you can’t get the diaphragm? What if it’s a 4 week delay and you need to get a job done? This is where this tip is useful.
@@VintageEngineRepairs I grab another saw. I have 20.
@@VintageEngineRepairs if I had that long a wait and had to have the saw then I would soak it in brake fluid as you did but I have so many saws I usually don’t run into that problem. I am waiting on parts right now for my Stihl 021 and Mantis tiller that I am rebuilding. I am putting a new Walbro WT215 on the 021 and need a gas tank, carb and diaphragms for the Mantis. I picked it up, cheap, but it needs some work. The 021 has been an ongoing restoration since Memorial Day. That sucker has more new parts on it than original parts. However, it got its first cutting job last weekend and did a good jo of it. It cut u some 6-8” seasoned oak logs at my youngest daughters house. I have restored it an 024 and 025 this year. Restored a MS 260 and 026 last year. Don’t think I do not have big saws - I do. Got a bevy of them up to and including 92 cc saws, several 70 and a bunch of 50 and 60 cc saws. I don’t have an 80, but close. I only lug these out when I need them. I have the bars to go with them, too.
I buy the new ones that will never go bad because they are made out of a very small steel spring no rubber
Nice! I have seen them but not tried them. They’re by walbro, correct?
Yes they are I run a small engine repair shop in Cincinnati and will only use them for repairs never had a come back with them
@@BillEyles I'm in Ohio too.
.. OUT - standing !!!
Thank you!