Covered all of the bases with fantastic graphics. Who could ask for more ? 5 Stars... that said, I have a 4 stroke Makita Leaf Blower that every 5th or 6th tank of gasoline I run through it I add a tank of 20% or so mix of gasoline and Lacquer Thinner and it keeps my carb clean without needing tear downs due to the poor gasoline quality available here in the Philippines. Just a tip that has solved problems for me. I make sure it doesn't sit in the carb for more than a day or so though, as I'm not sure about any possible negative effects of leaving the thinner/gas mix in for to long. On another note, I always filter my fuel through a surgical mask when transferring from large to small fill containers. Keeps all debris out and removes any water... The manual says the motor is good for 200 hours before needing a rebuild but I'm pushing 800 plus hours and she is still running strong. I change the oil every 5th or 6th use as well. Long Live the Makita... !! Hahahahaha ... a country boy will survive !!
@@onlythetruth883 ... 20% or so lacquer thinner. As for cars... I wouldn't have an issue putting it in old carburetor style cars but I wouldn't put it in anything fuel injected, especially loaded up with sensors. I ran a good brand (Chevron I think) injector cleaner through my Chevy Silverado years ago and it wiped out a couple of sensors... and the injector cleaner was supposedly safe and made to be used for cleaning said injectors. All this said... again... I would also be careful not to leave it in the fuel system very long, (12 hours or less) as again... I don't know what the long term exposure would/could be to fuel system parts / components. That's just my take... the mileage of others may vary. As for my leaf blower... I haven't noticed any damaged to fuel lines, filters, etc... for what it's worth. They have remained flexible and appear to be unaffected by the thinner. In closing, if I were to put it in a old car, tractor, rotor-tiller, etc... I would make sure I had a GOOD fuel filter installed as it may loosen a lot of gunk and cause problems if said gunk found it's way into the carburetor. Jus' sayin'... and use at your own risk.
You are absolutely amazing and true. Those close ups of the inner workings and added animation give such a clear understanding and develops intuitivity. Thank you so much. I appreciate the work you put in to making this.
your instructional videos just keep going "over the top", superb presentation with outstanding visual illustrations, thanks for your gift of knowledge to us all.
Great presentation as usual!!! Still the best instructional and videography on this topic. Many years back the library was where I got my basic information then hours of trial & error. Your videos are more than classroom worthy. 👍# 144 Stay well, Joe Z
Craig your videos are always spot on and very informative . If you have a poorly running engine even a slight cleaning can be helpful . Craig thanks for sharing 😊
Thanks for another informative video. I hadn't thought about air entering at the crankshaft but it makes complete sense the way you explained it. Thanks again & have a great day.
Great lesson, thanks a lot! Indeed, the carburetor of my new Fuxtec leaf blower has got one visible screw only, and I'm wondering wether or not I will find a hidden 'L' screw on top. Tomorrow's screw research day... 💪😁 Best regards from Braunschweig/Germany! 👋
Thank you... This a good info for understand their function and operation part in carberator... Knowledge is important before do anything to repair.. Thank you for sharing this vedio
😱😱😱😱 oh my!!!!!! Dis video is da very 1 I bin luking fo🤙🏾💯 Grrrrr8 U made it so ez 2 xplain n teech ina way dat makes it ez fo any1 2 do on dea own👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 Im gona try it out n c fo myself 😎😎😎 Mahaloz n Aloooooooha
The video was very explanatory, but I don't know if I missed it, but I don't remember seeing how to return the low and high speed screws to their default settings. How many turns do I need to make it work?
I thank you for this video once again about carb settings. As such I have a problem. Dolmar 114. L screw likes to run on 3/4 out only and the H screw is 1 1/4 out. After 4 mins of usage. The engine is seriously HOT and bogs down and dies. Compression is 120 and in the green. Anyways. Needless to say whilst running the chainsaw. I have noticed a very odd weird running of the chain ITSELF, which happens to my other chainsaw as well. During the run cycles of usage. The chain gets very stiff and tight around the main bar. So, natually I STOP, slacken bolts off and pull back the bar to release tension. Leave it for 20 mins, then come back readjust chain settings. My adjustment method is this as a description. When setting the chain, I always make sure that their IS at least 1mm slack from chain to BAR. I pull the chain by hand and rotate the chain a full 180 degrees. Top becomes BOTTOM and bottom becomes TOP. This is where it gets weird. This rotation of 180 can cause 1 of 2 things. Over tightening of the chain OR very slack chain upto 5-6mm GAP and sag. What the hell is wrong with this. Please understand (Same BAR and Chain) on 2 different chains saw. 1 YATO and the other DOLMAR. I am using a new bar and a newish chain. When I say newish, I am talking about 4 hours old and 2 or 3 chain sharpens later, Also I do have a spare chain which gets swapped out If I forgot my sharpening tools. This also has the same effect
How much chain oil are you using in the 4 minutes,as your symptons seem like a dry chain hence thd heat which can also be due to your chain being too tight. You should havev3 drivers above the bar when you pull the chain up prior to starting work. You can check the oil flow by aoming the end of the bar at either a lump of wood or card and watch for an oil spray being fired out. Hope this helps.
@@johnutting9615 I knew you would say this. As I have said before. This happens on 2 chains saw with the same bar and chain. Anyways. The Dolmar has consumed the ENTIRE tank of oil. 0.7 ltrs. So no over heating of the bar or chain. The Yato will take a full tank aswell to 1 full tank of fuel. Again no oiling issues.
I had this happen on a Jonsereds,I would set the chain correctly next thing ya know it's real tight when I cut,then I would loosen it then it would get too loose and so on back and fourth.Brought it to my work partners kid mechanic and the bearing on the side where your clutch is I think that's what it's called was shot,solved my problem.A person can take it off real easy and the bearing,if a person knew about it ,I think it should be regressed at least once a year,hell I never knew about it,I cut 8-12 cords a year or so,hopes it helps you or someone to check. 23:01
@@gregflorcyk4725 Are you saying the NEEDLE bearin g on the clutch DRUM is fubar. If that is the case I would agree. What I Omitted from my statement is thus... This is a scrap chainssaw. Repiared carb and gaskets. Now running. Unsiezed clutch drum and needle bearing. Will be buying a new drum kit with floating sprocket. Will buy new chain and BAR as those are TOAST. I have got a neew needle bearing but have same results when fitting OLD drum clutch. TIGHT AS FUK!!.. So needle bearing is OKAY but thin it maybe Clutch drum warped and overheated ALOT. Hence needle bearing cannot run smoothly. HOWEVER, this does not resolve my YATO issue. This un it is brand new but DOLAMR 34 years old was a scrap SALAVGE!!. Thanks buddy, I think you and I have it correct. But wanted to ask a professional. Before wasting and commiting to spending monies.! thanks orz.
I'm by no means an expert,just a thought.Thank goodness for u tube,there's a lot of people out there with knowledge at least gives people ideas to check,take care.
I have a Walbro 315a 228 (WYJ) it looks exactly like the carb you're demonstrating with except, there's no idling screws in either places (top or side). The top has no groove, gash or indentation for any type of driver. It's smooth. On the side, there isn't even a bore for an adjustment screw. It's a solid mold. Are you familiar with this type of carb?
Great video, the carb on my weed strimmer has the small hidden L screw but no H screw. Is there any way to adjust the fuel at high revs on this type of carb?
Some clone carbs by China manufacturer doesn't have the H screw. The place where the H screw usually sits now plugged permanently. Although that type of carb doesn't require fiddling those H screw, the engine has a lack of top end power. Somehow, these types are for people who don't know much about the fuel to air ratio. If the carburetor has some issues, don't bother to service them. Just discard them and get a new one because they're filthy cheap.
Throttle and choke shaft wear is a problem, but the major problem is “human error ” they get doctor google advice and start turning screws willy nilly instead of fixing the problem they cause a new one ……..
Covered all of the bases with fantastic graphics. Who could ask for more ? 5 Stars... that said, I have a 4 stroke Makita Leaf Blower that every 5th or 6th tank of gasoline I run through it I add a tank of 20% or so mix of gasoline and Lacquer Thinner and it keeps my carb clean without needing tear downs due to the poor gasoline quality available here in the Philippines. Just a tip that has solved problems for me. I make sure it doesn't sit in the carb for more than a day or so though, as I'm not sure about any possible negative effects of leaving the thinner/gas mix in for to long. On another note, I always filter my fuel through a surgical mask when transferring from large to small fill containers. Keeps all debris out and removes any water... The manual says the motor is good for 200 hours before needing a rebuild but I'm pushing 800 plus hours and she is still running strong. I change the oil every 5th or 6th use as well. Long Live the Makita... !! Hahahahaha ... a country boy will survive !!
You think the lacquer thinner trick might work in cars also.
What's the 20% the gasoline or the thinner? I assume the it's the thinner.
@@onlythetruth883 ... 20% or so lacquer thinner. As for cars... I wouldn't have an issue putting it in old carburetor style cars but I wouldn't put it in anything fuel injected, especially loaded up with sensors. I ran a good brand (Chevron I think) injector cleaner through my Chevy Silverado years ago and it wiped out a couple of sensors... and the injector cleaner was supposedly safe and made to be used for cleaning said injectors. All this said... again... I would also be careful not to leave it in the fuel system very long, (12 hours or less) as again... I don't know what the long term exposure would/could be to fuel system parts / components. That's just my take... the mileage of others may vary. As for my leaf blower... I haven't noticed any damaged to fuel lines, filters, etc... for what it's worth. They have remained flexible and appear to be unaffected by the thinner. In closing, if I were to put it in a old car, tractor, rotor-tiller, etc... I would make sure I had a GOOD fuel filter installed as it may loosen a lot of gunk and cause problems if said gunk found it's way into the carburetor. Jus' sayin'... and use at your own risk.
You are absolutely amazing and true.
Those close ups of the inner workings and added animation give such a clear understanding and develops intuitivity. Thank you so much. I appreciate the work you put in to making this.
Wow, thank you! 👍👍👍👍
33 1 die hat da hat von
Great in depth explanation again from yourself. The time you put into your videos is much appreciated by me and others no doubt, thank you.
This video really gave me a better understanding of the way a two stroke engine works.
your instructional videos just keep going "over the top", superb presentation with outstanding visual illustrations, thanks for your gift of knowledge to us all.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍👍👍
I haven't seen any videos that goes into great detail like yours. Thanks.
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Great presentation as usual!!! Still the best instructional and videography on this topic. Many years back the library was
where I got my basic information then hours of trial & error. Your videos are more than classroom worthy.
👍# 144
Stay well, Joe Z
Thank you so much Joe Z👍👍👍👍
@@TheRepairSpecialist You're welcome!
An excellent ,clear, detailed explanation of all the functions and adjustments. Thanks for your time.
Thank so much. I really appreciate it. 👍👍👍👍
Craig your videos are always spot on and very informative . If you have a poorly running engine even a slight cleaning can be helpful . Craig thanks for sharing 😊
Absolutely, and thank you so much for your kind feedback Artie👍👍👍
Brilliant! Absolutely the best analysis I've seen.
Wow, thanks! 👍👍👍
Thanks for another informative video. I hadn't thought about air entering at the crankshaft but it makes complete sense the way you explained it. Thanks again & have a great day.
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
That's the way to do it... Excellent video. Thanks
Very informative,keep up the good work!!
Thank you so much 👍👍
The knowledge I gained while watching this video is impressive. Thank you TRS!! 👍😀
Thank you for letting me know. I really appreciate it. Craig 👍👍👍
Excellent video. Brilliant presentation. Thorough and patiently presented. Doesn't get much better than this. Thanks very much.
Thank you so much. I really appreciate it👍👍👍
Great lesson, thanks a lot! Indeed, the carburetor of my new Fuxtec leaf blower has got one visible screw only, and I'm wondering wether or not I will find a hidden 'L' screw on top. Tomorrow's screw research day... 💪😁
Best regards from Braunschweig/Germany! 👋
Best of luck and thank you for your very king feedback. Craig
Thank you ! It all makes sense now! Legendary video!
You are very welcome. Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Thanks alot for explaining this so grateful. God bless you always sir❤
You are welcome thank you so much
You're the mentor's mentor, perfectly explained with fantastic graphical presentation which is 2nd to none, you're owed a world of gratitude, cheers
Wow, thank you! I really appreciate your very kind and inspiring comment. Thank you so much. Craig 👍👍👍👍
Thank you... This a good info for understand their function and operation part in carberator... Knowledge is important before do anything to repair.. Thank you for sharing this vedio
Thank you 👍👍👍
We really appreciate your efforts.
Thank you so much for talking me that. I to really appreciate your support by watching my content. Thank you. Craig 👍👍👍
Great explainer video
Outstanding presentation!
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Thank you!! I want to learn, I'm following. Great explanations about WHY. ❤
Thank you very much for your explanation 🎉
You are welcome! Thank you 👍👍👍
What an amazing creator.
Thank you so much 👍👍
Very informative video. Sooooo many spoken words!
😱😱😱😱 oh my!!!!!!
Dis video is da very 1 I bin luking fo🤙🏾💯
Grrrrr8
U made it so ez 2 xplain n teech ina way dat makes it ez fo any1 2 do on dea own👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Im gona try it out n c fo myself 😎😎😎
Mahaloz n Aloooooooha
Thank you so much for your kind and motivating feedback. I really appreciate. Craig 👍👍👍
The video was very explanatory, but I don't know if I missed it, but I don't remember seeing how to return the low and high speed screws to their default settings. How many turns do I need to make it work?
very good and well explaind
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Well presented.
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Very knowledge person thank you sir
Thank you so much 👍👍👍👍
Craig how may turns out is a good staring point for setting these adjustment screws ? 1 1/2 turns out for each as a beginning point ?
Use an induction tachometer and set the idle and high RPM to factory specs using with the L and H needle set
I thank you for this video once again about carb settings. As such I have a problem. Dolmar 114. L screw likes to run on 3/4 out only and the H screw is 1 1/4 out. After 4 mins of usage. The engine is seriously HOT and bogs down and dies. Compression is 120 and in the green. Anyways. Needless to say whilst running the chainsaw. I have noticed a very odd weird running of the chain ITSELF, which happens to my other chainsaw as well. During the run cycles of usage. The chain gets very stiff and tight around the main bar. So, natually I STOP, slacken bolts off and pull back the bar to release tension. Leave it for 20 mins, then come back readjust chain settings. My adjustment method is this as a description. When setting the chain, I always make sure that their IS at least 1mm slack from chain to BAR. I pull the chain by hand and rotate the chain a full 180 degrees. Top becomes BOTTOM and bottom becomes TOP. This is where it gets weird. This rotation of 180 can cause 1 of 2 things. Over tightening of the chain OR very slack chain upto 5-6mm GAP and sag. What the hell is wrong with this. Please understand (Same BAR and Chain) on 2 different chains saw. 1 YATO and the other DOLMAR. I am using a new bar and a newish chain. When I say newish, I am talking about 4 hours old and 2 or 3 chain sharpens later, Also I do have a spare chain which gets swapped out If I forgot my sharpening tools. This also has the same effect
How much chain oil are you using in the 4 minutes,as your symptons seem like a dry chain hence thd heat which can also be due to your chain being too tight. You should havev3 drivers above the bar when you pull the chain up prior to starting work. You can check the oil flow by aoming the end of the bar at either a lump of wood or card and watch for an oil spray being fired out. Hope this helps.
@@johnutting9615 I knew you would say this. As I have said before. This happens on 2 chains saw with the same bar and chain. Anyways. The Dolmar has consumed the ENTIRE tank of oil. 0.7 ltrs. So no over heating of the bar or chain. The Yato will take a full tank aswell to 1 full tank of fuel. Again no oiling issues.
I had this happen on a Jonsereds,I would set the chain correctly next thing ya know it's real tight when I cut,then I would loosen it then it would get too loose and so on back and fourth.Brought it to my work partners kid mechanic and the bearing on the side where your clutch is I think that's what it's called was shot,solved my problem.A person can take it off real easy and the bearing,if a person knew about it ,I think it should be regressed at least once a year,hell I never knew about it,I cut 8-12 cords a year or so,hopes it helps you or someone to check. 23:01
@@gregflorcyk4725 Are you saying the NEEDLE bearin g on the clutch DRUM is fubar. If that is the case I would agree. What I Omitted from my statement is thus... This is a scrap chainssaw. Repiared carb and gaskets. Now running. Unsiezed clutch drum and needle bearing. Will be buying a new drum kit with floating sprocket. Will buy new chain and BAR as those are TOAST. I have got a neew needle bearing but have same results when fitting OLD drum clutch. TIGHT AS FUK!!.. So needle bearing is OKAY but thin it maybe Clutch drum warped and overheated ALOT. Hence needle bearing cannot run smoothly.
HOWEVER, this does not resolve my YATO issue. This un it is brand new but DOLAMR 34 years old was a scrap SALAVGE!!. Thanks buddy, I think you and I have it correct. But wanted to ask a professional. Before wasting and commiting to spending monies.! thanks orz.
I'm by no means an expert,just a thought.Thank goodness for u tube,there's a lot of people out there with knowledge at least gives people ideas to check,take care.
Excellent video. Just what I have been looking for. What is the approximate idle speed for a strimmer like this?
Best vedio sir,, thank you!!!
Thank you so much 👍👍👍
Thank you important information
Thank you so much 👍👍
I had no idea.
Thank you very much
You are welcome👍👍👍👍👍
I have a Walbro 315a 228 (WYJ) it looks exactly like the carb you're demonstrating with except, there's no idling screws in either places (top or side). The top has no groove, gash or indentation for any type of driver. It's smooth. On the side, there isn't even a bore for an adjustment screw. It's a solid mold. Are you familiar with this type of carb?
Great video, the carb on my weed strimmer has the small hidden L screw but no H screw. Is there any way to adjust the fuel at high revs on this type of carb?
Some clone carbs by China manufacturer doesn't have the H screw.
The place where the H screw usually sits now plugged permanently.
Although that type of carb doesn't require fiddling those H screw, the engine has a lack of top end power.
Somehow, these types are for people who don't know much about the fuel to air ratio. If the carburetor has some issues, don't bother to service them. Just discard them and get a new one because they're filthy cheap.
I disasambled carburator from the engine and there was little fuel near the carburator fuel throttle is it normal ?
I did just that, i removed the small rubber plug to expose the hidden Low screw, it's there but doesn't have a slot to be adjusted l....🤷🏻
Both 143rii carburetors online ..but its using far too much gas when cutting grass
Magnific
This is how i was twat nice job
Throttle and choke shaft wear is a problem, but the major problem is “human error ” they get doctor google advice and start turning screws willy nilly instead of fixing the problem they cause a new one ……..
হেলো
This video really gave me a better understanding of the way a two stroke engine works.