The Stroken Spline Part 7
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- Опубліковано 16 лис 2024
- Stroken Spline; is a video of my project creating a splined coupling for a custom modified drive to a winch assembly. The splined coupling has a spline that matches the drive motor and the other end is made to slip over a keyed shaft. As I set up to create the spline bore and the rest of the shaping that goes into the project, I have to modify my machine accessories and fab some tooling to getter done. I give you a quickie demo on setting up an index head for a combination of 14 teeth spline and I show a good demo on creating the form tools into the shape to cut the splines and keyway. As usual I may also have a few regular habits that I think nothing of and you pick up on, giving us more comments to follow the video. Thanks for watching and visit the Wright Store to order your new hat, shirts or sweatshirts.
Cheers, Keith ;{)------
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Holy Smokes! What a ton of work!
Nothing like the stress of reacquiring the cut on a nearly finished part. Nice Job Keith!
wow, that's a lot of work. I'd be scared to death about making an error. great job.
Mistakes only happen when it's almost done.
Awesome work. Fit nice. Great skills. Ability to focus with so many changes. Great set of videos. Thank you for sharing.
ONE OF THE BEST YET. I'M LEAQRNING HOW MUCH I DON'T KNOW. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK KEITH
LOL we have an ancient vertical keyseater at work that loves to bite off acid brushes
last patent date on the thing is 1898!
It's been "modernized" from overhead lineshaft drive with 2 electric motors that look like they are of 1920s vintage lol.
I hate the thing but you just barely can cut a 1" keyway thru a 16" thick part with enough patience.
It truly is a marvel of engineering for its time and you can even tilt the table for tapered bores, still a pain to use but it has probably paid for itself 90 years ago
for it's first owner, and yea we have done splines and gear teeth with it, manualy indexed the old school way with scribe lines etc, not fun but you do what you gotta do to geter done!
I like the poor man's optical comparator method you used to check the fit of the coupling at around 28:15. Low tech, but an elegant solution.
Regards;
Ron Kluwe
I think he was looking at the tooth contact witness marks not shadows.
oh nevermind, I rewound it for frame of reference and saw. I didn't realize it was on the shaft.
I see what you mean about no interruptions. Pretty crazy juggling act there. Looks like fun if you know what you're doing though.
There must be something wrong with me. I'm not a machinist and watched all seven videos and enjoyed every second of them. What is wrong with me?
Nothing, It's rare to get a glimpse of a genius at work. He is a guy that can make anything with what he has available. It's hard not to watch.
My uncle was a machinist. He tried to explain to me some of the things he did. I'm mechanically inclined and understood basically what he explained. I wish he had taken me to work with him one time. If he had, and I saw this, I probably would have gone into that line of work instead of being a damn police officer for 30 years. I respect any of you guys that make something so useful from chunks of metal. You are all artists.
a1scooter1
That probably means you are close to retirement. After you retire, make some parts : )
a1scooter1 I'm right there with ya buddy...although it was only 23 for me. I did pick up some welding and fab skills but the machining part of these videos is so far beyond any skills I have it's like magic to me. If you haven't yet, watch them all....amazing stuff.
Dave W I did police work for a long time but I raced from 1988 to 2012 (round track). I consider myself a suspension specialist but did a lot of typical mechanic work mainly taking engines and transmissions in and out. Most of our machine work was sent out. All of my wins and combined team wins totaled up pretty good though. We had close to 250 wins and 11 track championships. All of the races were on asphalt 3/4 mile tracks or shorter. I've always liked machine work, but never have done much.
Keith:
This series is a wonderful example of thoughtful set up and execution. You create a great example of fine work.
I think I can add one thing.
Several years ago I had cause to study the involute mathematical function. If your hydraulic motor male spline are truly involute, then their sides will not be flat, but will be a curve of constantly changing radius. You perhaps should have ground your tool to that involute form on its sides, rather than flat. Then the female spline would also have involute sides on the splines. You will certainly recognize the involute function in gear teeth which more dramatically show the changing radius involute curve. When used for splines the involute creates an external and internal gear combination that is a one to one ratio and allows a sweeter "gear action" to address minor play in the spline coupling.
My brief note won't explain everything, but may spark your further interest.
Thanks greatly for your good work!
Thanks for adding your comment and yes I could of expanded more on the subject of involute contacts. ;{)------
The only other thing I can think of that is relevant about an Involute spline that may be worth a brief mention for other's interested is that the sweeter gear action which is absolutely true, is a function of it's self centring under load. This function of the Involute is extremely important in engineering. Happy New Year All, cheers from John.
Getting the music synchronized with the stroke of the "jumping jack" must have been the most difficult part! LOL
At 15:46 those splines look REALLY good Keith.
Fantastic! I hope you got good money for that part, you put in a lot of work.
What had me a bit mystified all along was how you were going to achieve the radius of the major diameter. on the teeth of original spline on the major diameter. of the mating part with an unradiused broaching tool. I guess you made enough passes "around the block" with your narrow tool that it kind of approximated the I.D. with the 'leeward' corner of the tool as you were taking off the sides of the splines on the 'windward' - either that or you left plenty of clearance.
I was also wondering why you didn't [or didn't show] use the 'monkey's poo' to make a mold of the I.D. of the part you were making to check against the O.D. of the original.
Also, wouldn't it be awesome to have a ratcheting indexer that hit the z axis a few thou every cut? would really automate the hands-off part.
Did you consider swinging the dividing head up and over by 180 for the trial fit? I can see a number of reasons not to including that you wouldn't be able to see anything, and you would need a crane to dangle the motor from.
Very good explanation, it is always difficult to make this work. regards
About the shaper, my girlfriend just said - "Oh my god, it's like watching the world's most boring Robot Porn'..... she's a good lass :)
My wife calls this my shop porn! Or when's I'm watching old steam engines and such it's my farm porn
Hi Keith,
Nice job on the spline. Making that was very labor intense and, as you said, required a lot of concentration to know where you were at all times. Did you have to stop very often to clear the chips that accumulated inside the bore? I never saw any chips when you took it out to check.
Thanks for the great camera work too!
Reid
The vacuum sucked them out in between each trip around the block. I was doing the checking after I cleaned the area. ;{)------
I know this is an old video but I saw where you were checking the angle of these splines. involute splines dont actually have a straight side to the spline. They are an involute which is the same shape as gear teeth. Gear teeth are usually 14 1/2 or 20 degree and involute splines are generally 30 degree. So the side of the spline is a curve although it is a very slight curve rather than a straight line.
Have you ever considered making a cast of the male spline so that you could reproduce it for trial fits ?? That way you would not have to remove the piece from the machine. There are many products out there to do just that. It's a complicated enough job to perhaps warrant that bit of extra effort. Have a great new year. Keith...how is your Dad doing ?
Just talked to dad, he had to make a trip back into the hospital and testing is going on. thanks for asking. Sometimes it is a plus to have a sample test piece on hand to check as you go! ;{)------
Thanks Keith!
Nice work as always Keith. Did you break the cutter just as the video cut off? It looked to me as though you indexed it one hole out! lol Thanks for making another great series of videos for us.
They don't have any wire EDM machines in your area?
It is a manufacturer's designed non-standard metric spline being fitted to a gear box with some were on the splines on the input shaft. It has to be hand fitted to achieve a desired relaxed slip fit. I doubt that any shop would take on that task at a reasonable cost.
Hi Keith
Just wondering instead of dabbing the oil brush deep into the hole, why not just lubricate the top of the tool, the oil would then run down to where it's wanted.
Aiming for the tool that is moving I find a bit harder, than the keyway in this case. I have in the past sucked up a lot of brushes in various set ups trying to apply the coolant or oils to the cutter itself, you learn to let go real fast and the brush usually isn't worth anything when it comes out the other side! ;{)-----
Yes, I see what you mean.
If the input shaft has only a single keyway, you could have left out most of the splines :-)
If this coupling was being made in manufacturing for say 10,000 motors, would some sort of automated slotted machine be used or would create a custom broach to cut all at once?
Yes if it was to become a production item it most likely would be automated to some kind of faster method. A single push broach, not likely. ;{)------
I've haven't herd that phone ring this series.
Everybody was Xmas shopping! LOL It did ring a couple times, but not in the footage I was concerned with. ;{)------
I have a new 6" clutch disk with a 7/8" X 10 spline hub made to fit a Power King (obsolete) yard tractor. I also have a new 7/8" X 10 spline clutch alignment tool designed to fit Ford and Jeep clutch assemblies. The 7/8" X 10 spline alignment tool does not fit (too large) the 7/8" X 10 spline hub. A clutch distributor said "All you have to do is chuck the tool in a lathe and sand it down a tad. He came back 10 minutes later and said "I guess not." Any idea why 7/8" X 10 spline is not the same for the hub and the tool?
i know i asked you before about mass production...would a punch press work ?????
i was thinking.. if one had a lathe dog big enough. could clamp that on the part so it could be reclocked perfectly in the chuck.
looks like the male splines have some convex to their faces. but it could be an optical illusion. i was kinda expecting some kind of concave grind on the tool bit angles so it would be convex on convex instead of convex mail on a flat female. but i am probably wrong.
12:10 That moment when the music syncs up
I notice that you use a dial caliper instead of a digital type. Is there greater accuracy
in the dial type. I have a digital caliper and it never seems to get the 0 point right.
There's really nothing to choose from digital versus dial for most purposes.
The digital caliper optically reads a glass scale, so it is in theory capable of greater accuracy.
Two things to watch out for:
1) With any caliper of micrometer, you need to keep the measuring surfaces *clean* - wipe them before checking zero, to clear off any chips or grit which might be sticking to the jaws.
2) Some of the less pricy calipers drain batteries faster than their better cousins. This can cause the zero to "drift" as the battery loses voltage. Spend the extra effort to get good silver oxide button cells - SR44 or LR44 or A76, not the AG13 cells which have a shorter lifespan...
For some guys, this issue of battery life is the deciding factor - it's never been an issue for me, but I keep plenty of spare batteries around... they are a consumable, just like any other in the shop, and it pays to buy your consumables from a reliable supplier at a good price.
Nothing sucks like running out of some common item when the stores are all closed!