Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
How to Rebuild / Reseal a Johnson 9.5 HP Lower Unit - Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- Water Pump Kit Reference Chart: everythingoutbo...
Gearcase Seal Kit Chart: www.everythingo...
Water Pump Impeller: amzn.to/2rxX7gr
1958-1967 Seal Kit: amzn.to/2sFvm5y
1967-1973 Seal Kit: amzn.to/2sw9wAZ
Gasket Sealing Compound: amzn.to/2s7PfRE
I am participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to products.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best rebuild of a 9.5 lower unit on UA-cam. Thank you
Thanks Brandon, you walked me right through my rebuild. One thing on removing the shift rod bushing. Use a log spade drill bit with the tapered end. Works like a champ. Three knocks and it came right out and didn't even damage the point on the bit. Again, thanks for the vids, you have helped greatly.
hi Mike what size but did you use?
@@fielbarrow it’s not the size. You need the length to reach the bushing coming in from the bottom. You’re going to hammer on the drill point and the other end against the bushing.
I wish I had found these two videos before I took my Evinrude apart. I’m going to redo all my work now that I know what steps I missed. Saved it for future viewing.
Really great video series, very helpful. One the better instructional videos on here.
Thank you.
Thank you for posting all these videos. It's very educational.
The special tool for the shift rod busing is fine...but a small blind bearing collet with a slide hammer works well too.
I always use grease on O-rings and seals never had a problem Gasket sealer gunks up By the way I am a subscribe and like your videos a lot Great job with the phone camera too. The way you do it with all the tricks is great . very helpful Thanks
It does, there is no doubt there.
Have you posted a video on removing the seals yet, I can’t seem to find it. Thanks
I have a 65 seahorse 9.5 Johnson needed a new impeller when I tore it down the impeller was loose no pin to hold it in place I don’t know where it has gone it did pump water 2 years ago but since it’s been sitting thought might as well replace it saw this video and wondered if the pin could have some how got into the lower unit? So thanks for posting this so I can double check new subscriber 👍
bloody legend mate, thanks a million
Thanks. You could make a good living out of this. I didn't exaggerate on that quote. I'm retired every little bit saved helps.
Brandon im missing something what keeps the oil from leaching up through the bolt heads without any sealant on them. Your video is great thanks it has helped a lot
Great Video! do you have information on the similar parts for a 18502s 1965 18hp fastwin?
Excellent video, very informative. I have a '64 Johnson 9.5 with a long leg that I will be resealing, thanks to your video, due to water getting into the oil. My question is, how different is the job on a long leg and do I need any other parts aside from what you recommend? Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.
Your videos are the best I have seen on outboard motor rebuilding. Thanks! Question: I noticed in the Johnson 15HP rebuild, you had to insert all of the gears into the lower unit using a combination of gravity (dropping in the gears) and a cable to pull from the top, since the only access to the gears is from the front and top. In this video, after removing 6 screws and a pivot pin, you have complete access to the gears and clutch dog. The question is: why wouldn't Johnson design all of their outboard motors to have complete access to the gears? Are there any design downsides to this approach?
I don't know.
The commercial engines used this type of split case, into the 90's
I don't know if that means it is stronger or weaker (cheaper) but its notable.
Perhaps the newer design is simply more streamline?
great video
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Where did you get the shift rod bushing removal tool?
Love your videos hope you can help me I was given a 1973 evinrude 18hp and when I replaced the seals I noticed that the gear case drive shaft does not have the balls and indent springs. My question is do I need to buy a new one or will it work. It is jumping out of gear now and needs a new front gear but I am concerned if I replace the gear it may happen again without the spring and balls. Thanks for your help.
I found that just running all screws in and out of a die is easier way to clean them and faster
This is seriously one of the best rebuild videos I have found. Have you every had any issues with shifting? When I press the lever up or down the whole powerhead moves the opposite way. I have made sure that it is set to shift and is running, but the dang thing still won’t shift. Any ideas? Thanks!
yeah, usually when one (or both) of the lower rubber mounts break, its causes that.
and thanks!
Thanks man!
Do you have the dimensions to make the shift bushing install tool? Part number 304515. Can’t find them anywhere. Thanks
Ok. Thank you sir
some people make this stuff look so easy
Any idea why my prop shaft seal has a larger OD than my drive shaft seal? The kit came with both the same diameter.
Hey, on the big black gasket under the impeller, can you just make one instead of buying the entire kit? Or do you have to replace it? I just removed the impeller and haven't torn it down as far as you have done in this video, I just want to see how it runs before spending alot on it.
Does your pump have key way or just pin to hold impeller mines is 1965 9.5 seahorse and looks like just a pin but it was missing on my motor
Do I need to apply any kind of sealant between the bearing housing gasket and the lower unit? ‘69 Johnson 9.5.
no, not usually.
I usually put some gasket sealing compound on it just for safe measure.
Thanks for the quick reply, but I answered my own question by watching the second video and seeing you coat both sides of the gasket.
Thanks for these videos. They are very helpful. I have 3 of these motors that I hope to convert to 1 runner.
What type and weight of gear oil is used in these gear cases ?
@@jc3116 80w90 :)
what size of bar (special tool) did you use to know out that bushing? i just got all the parts ready to take care of mine. thanks for the great video
The tool is part number 0304514 ($10 new)
It tapers down, but that widest point is 8.09MM
Or 0.3185 Inch
or, 5/16th
This video shows it as well.
ua-cam.com/video/o1UACm75VIs/v-deo.html
Brandon's Garage is that an omc tool # ?
Bob Heale hey bob!! I finally found this tool on boats .net it’s originally made omc tool and they stopped making it but it’s currently in stock now!!
Does this go for a 96 15hp 4 stroke Johnson as well?
How did you remove the prop shaft seal?
All my parts should be fine. I wanna clean them as you did & replace all seals, gaskets & rings. Could you please list the name of the kit I should get. Also the oil, grease & etc you used. It's a 1971 johnson 9.5. I can't remember right now if the model is 9R71R or 9RL71R.
Only difference with the 9RL71 is a Long shaft, vs a short.
Seal/gaskkets are Sierra kit number 18-2683
Impeller is Evinrude # 0775519, or sierra 18-3003
can't punch out the shift rod bushing if the inside diameter of the bushing is the same as the shell that holds it..., what tool did you use aka "special tool"
everythingoutboards.com/brp/tools/304514.html
@@BrandonsGarage thank you very much, however it says except 9 1/2... Does that matter?
Very informative. Question though, how did you get the driveshaft out? I have a 73' 6hp johnson abd cannot get the pinion gear off the bottom of the driveshaft...thus I cannot get the driveshaft out.
If memory serves me correctly, on that year the driveshaft is installed through the gearcase halves.
just pull pinion and driveshaft out together.
"We need a special tool" lol
What size tap did you use?
I want to replace just the prop shaft seal (fishing line accident). Can this be accomplished by just removing the skeg housing? Thanks.
Yes
Brandon's Garage - I recently acquired a 68 Evinrude 9.5 and watched your video to rebuild the lower end. All that is left to do is fire up the engine but I am waiting for a few more upper end parts. I also replaced the t-stat. My question is when I start the engine, will it start to pee water immediately or does it take time for the t-stat to open? Just wondering how/how long it needs to run to know I did everything correctly? Thank you!
once its on you'll see water coming out the ports in the back.
T-stat doesn't need to open first.
Thanks much. Two other question if you don't mind. Do you have a video on adjusting the carb? I rebuilt the carb and am dialing in the low speed idle and was hoping to see someone do it with the motor running to see how it should run.
Also, When I rebuilt the lower end and before I installed it on the motor, I sealed it up and let it sit dry for 24 hours to allow all the permatex etc. to cure. Then I filled it with Gear oil and again let it sit 24 hours. Everything looked good, no visible leaks etc. Today I ran the motor for 10 minutes or so in a large bucket. Everything seems to be working well, but when I was done, I did notice a fair amount of oil residue floating in the water and on the sides of my bucket. I cracked the drain plug and gear oil still looks good. Is this normal for these 2 cycles, possibly fuel oil?
yes. unburnt fuel, carbon buildup, oil residue, they all find the way into the bucket.
I'm trying to replace the shaft seals on the propeller and in the impeller housing. I've ordered 2 sets of seals and they both appear to be 1 1/16" OD but the previous seals seem to be 1" OD. Am I crazy or am I getting the wrong parts? My motor is a 1966 Johnson 9.5. Did they have different size seals for different year 9.5s?
For the driveshaft-
1967 and prior, they used 1" OD seal
In 1968, they changed over to 1.062" OD
The propshaft seal is a whole different problem.
In theory-they are the same.
In the description, there are links to the seal kits, but the not seals. let me know if you need part numbers for those and I can look them up.
Also, that is the original lower unit correct?
I wanna do all of this to the lower unit on my 1971 Johnson 9.5 but I'm scared I may forget to put something back together right / get lost & confused in the process. I'd love to it myself tho. Many repair shops won't work on these older motors
Yeah, that is quite common.
Nothing broke taking this apart, I somewhat got lucky - but it happens all the time.
The shop rate is probably $150+ an hour, even with a 2 hour repair bill, a lot of people wouldn't want to pay that much to have it resealed. After the parts and labor, you've paid more than the engine is worth.
Also the seal removal tools, a lot of shops haven't been in business long enough to have 30+ year old tools laying around.
They do (work on them) where I live in Michigan I don't know where you live but they're stupid!!!
I have a 1982 Johnson Seahorse, when I removed the 'Clutch Dog' there seems to be a spring and two ball bearings that were holding it, but when i re assembly it, the clutch dog wont move. Panicking, Help pls.
the springs and detent balls are pretty strong. Pretty hard to move it by hand.
you make it look so easy. how much do would it cost normally to have a mechanic do all this lower unit servicing?
Well, I've done it a hundred times. This was one of my first videos- i expect the quality of my demonstrations to go up with more experience.
Anywho, most places wouldn't touch something this old.
There is a very good chance you'll have a couple of broken screws along the way; the difficulty of fixing that, vs what they make, doesn't make it worth it.
I have heard of a few smaller/struggling shops doing this work for $300-400
Brandon's Garage. considering I bought a 16" 1976 Jon boat, 2008 trailer and the running 9.5 for $500 I don't think I did too bad. one of the clamp screws is seized up and when run in a tub I see the tan color fluid floating..I'm told that's a seal..not sure if I should attempt the service on my own or not
Brandon's Garage maybe I should start by just doing to prop seal?
Drain it and check? If its old, should be black by now.
Chances are it will need seals.
Brandon's Garage 1968..it's old
same thing applies to the 75 eveinrude 25hp and the 84 johnson.
what years does this kit fit on? I got a 1971 model 9122-01503 and can you please provide me with the P/N to the seal kit if im seeing it right its 18-2682
This kit was for 1958-1967; 2682 is for the 1967 and prior engines.
With your 1971, you need Sierra kit number 18-2683
What is the "special tool" for getting the shift rod bushing out??? Thanks
I used OMC part number 304514
...even though the tool manual says it isn't for a 9 1/2 HP.
also how did you get the seals out of the bearing cup and plate?
Thats a whole different process.
You can you a pinion bearing puller and a slide hammer for the prop shaft seal, that one is easy.
Problem is the plate.
For that I use a blind hole bearing puller, and a large (1") washer, trimmed down, for the pulling surface.
I forgot to mention the shaft it currently has does not have the hole for the indent spring and balls. I am assuming someone replaced it with a different year shaft that did not have the hole.
Well, you should have the detent balls and spring in a 1973.
Does the clutch dog have groves on the inside for the balls to ride in?
If someone swapped the whole lower you might be okay.
Also, does the clutch dog have rounded off teeth?
Brandon's Garage the clutch dog seems fine in fact it looks new. My wife's grandfather tried to fix it and i think he replaced the clutch dog. The clutch dog does not appear to have any groves for the ball and indent spring just for the shaft. I know the forward gear is why it is slipping out. I ordered a gear off ebay looks identical but it is from a 60s model same hp 18 do you think it will work? Thanks again for taking your time to answer.
I'm rebuilding a 1978 25hp Evin-son (25802C) and was wondering how to check the backlash for any possibly, necessary new/extra thrust washers/shims. Anyone have an idea or a source?
Not something you need to do on that gearcase.
@@BrandonsGarage thank you. I'm guessing that's because it's a small hp motor so it's not critical?
your links dont include the seals or shift rod bushing, do you have links for them?
1958-1967 Seal Kit: amzn.to/2sFvm5y
Seals, and shift rod seal.
However, the bushing itself is a separate part. Dont usually need to replace that.
@@BrandonsGarage have you made the gear seals video yet? Can't find it
How do you get the drive shaft seal out of the lower plate? The lower part of the water pump below the impeller?
This video:
ua-cam.com/video/MCXF-r6IAYM/v-deo.html
and this video:
ua-cam.com/video/KFpp7h_8sGI/v-deo.html
@@BrandonsGarage
Literally saw that video like two days later as a random suggestion, made the spacer (huge chore) bought a tool on amazon for like $60. I JUST PULLED THAT BEARING. STOKED. The long Bearing tool you hammered out with the rubber mallet. Now I have to find that. Suggestions? First time tearing down and full rebuild this exact motor. My uncle will be pumped to get it back 2+ years later of buying tools tearing apart and buying more tools to get it all taken apart.
@@BrandonsGarage Have a suggestion on where I can buy all new hardware for the rebuild like a kit of specific OEM?
Is this the same for the 6hp?
pre 1980 yes, just different parts.
Hard to read the parts numbers off the pkg. Can you help?. Thanks
They are in the description too.
You are the most efficient/accurate mechanic on the web. Thanks again
Gray Gloves! What gives?
I was out of the blue ones.
However, now they come green.
@@BrandonsGarage I didn't recognize you. I thought UA-cam was playing some sick joke on me, or you had been kidnapped.
What year model# is this
This was a MQ-11C
(1965 9.5 HP)
i just smelled 80-90 and not in the shop
I broke my plate, jb weld it is
Don't finish the reassemble
hi there awsome video can you p.m me on fb danny