I made a MC4 cable/connectors/extension. Measured the voltage to the solar panel without light emitting to the panel. The voltage reads 0.59V is that ok? PS: I just want to know if the cables/connectors are installed correctly.
You can do the test with the ohm setting as well. Touch the meter probes together and look at the reading. That is the same reading you should see when another meter would make a beep.
Hi, great video! I’m trying to test a wire that goes from my car battery to my sub in the boot how do I do this with both ends not having connectors and it’s just the bare wire? (Also my multimeter doesn’t beep either).
Use the ohms setting and it will be easier with two people if you can find help. Once you’re in the ohms setting, look at the reading on the meter. I think it will read something like 1 (I may be wrong but it doesn’t matter what the reading is). Now touch the leads together. The meter will probably read something like 0 (once again I may be wrong but the number doesn’t matter). Note each value- whatever value it may be. Now have your buddy go to one side of the wire. He should not let the wire touch metal yet. You keep the meter on the other side. Touch one meter lead to the wire (don’t let the wire touch metal) and touch the other meter lead to a good grounded/bare metal spot on the car. You should have a reading on the meter that matches the reading you had earlier when the leads were NOT touching. Now tell your buddy to touch the wire to a good grounded/bare metal part of the car. If you are both on the same wire, the meter will read the same value it read earlier when you touched the two leads together (or close to it). If the meter value isn’t changing, you guys are either not using a good ground/bare metal surface or you’re on different wires. Good luck!
Theoretically yes but logistically, no. You’d have to pin each side and it would be extremely difficult with a regular electrical meter. It’s not uncommon to have a bad HDMI cable if that’s what you’re asking. If you have several going to the same place, you can use a similar method to identify wires, but testing is kind of asking a lot.
hey,what about a single long wire that you cant reach the both ends,how you can check for continuity?and how to check which end is the wire in case they are the same color???thanks bro
Same setting on the meter. The person on one end of the long wire should put one of the meter leads on the outside of the connector and the other meter lead on the tip of the connector being careful not to let the leads touch each other. Then, someone on the other end of the long wire will take a small piece of wire or copper or whatever then use it to connect the outside of the connector to the tip. We call that a “short” and the person on the meter should hear it beep every time the other person connects the tip to the outside.
That’s actually a really good question and I’m not sure how to answer it. I wouldn’t use a multimeter to test the audio out signal. I would use a different method depending on the application. Tell me about your problem and I’ll see what advice I can offer.
A “short” is where two different conductors touch each other. For example in this scenario, the outside steel shielding is one conductor and the copper core is the other. If they touch each other even a little bit, we would say the two conductors are “shorted.” Good question. Sorry I didn’t clarify.
I heard you can use a tin foil on one side if you wanted to locate a working coax on the other. Example Some idiot contractor i hired decided to unplug most my coax and now I can't locate my directv line. I found my cable internet line with a splitter i got that to bring my new modem to my central location. I just know that my satellite coax is on the other side of the wall and I know the outlet its coming out from. I know find about 50 feet of unplugged coax i recently had a satellite guy hook up. I located the line that goes directly to the dish but can't locate the line that goes to the outlet. Maybe I should just plug in that unplugged extra coax direct and run that line down and make a new outlet. Aghh this contractor was a nightmare and all he was paid to do was put in recess lights.
I haven't heard the tin foil trick. I'm not sure I understand the lost cable. You found the line that goes to the dish but can't find the line that connects the central closet to the line from the dish?
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Sorry it's hard to explain my situation. So i moved in a house that had a family room built. On the side wall it has an outlet that is for cable internet hook up and also a line for directv. Up in the attic half way, the whole side of the family room is practically blocked off. Those two lines are on the family side of the wall. If i really wanted i could crawl and squeeze to the other side with plenty of space but gotta do vice vesa if i wanted out. I actually used the foil method and it worked!!!!! So I covered the outside metal part adapter and covered the inside copper line or middle conductor with foil. Went up the attic to the 3 unknown coax, 2 were dead and the last one was it. Used a multi meter and set it on continuity. From there same concept of how you explained on checking if its live. Plus for more confirmation i had my gf take off foil and on again to make sure 100% its right.
all this said and my dtv box still giving 775 error code. I think i might have to terminate and crimp up some new coax lines. I have about 50 foot of fairly new coax sitting in the attic. I literally rolled it and tied it for future use.
@@FMD023 OH!!! Now I understand what the foil trick is. The tin foil shorts the tip to the outside shielding. Thats a clever idea. If you are absolutely positive you're on the correct wire and there is NO splitter anywhere in the lines, you should have a direct connection from the box to the dish. Make sure the DISH itself is powered up. It can be powered by the box if you have a box with that capability or you can use the power supply. If all of this is correct, you should be good to go. If not, maybe your dish is not aimed?
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV I’ll recheck the line to the dish one more time. In the meantime I’m working on getting these IRS to work. I been told I’ve plugged everything right just can’t seem to get right. I went the Balut route with extenders. Sending unit plug in IR in port and receive unit plug in Ir out. My rak is literally on the other side of the wall and about 25 feet away. 16 if u don’t count the bottom to top ceiling.it’s been frustrating yet rewarding. My home theater is almost complete. Just need to make a 12” riser for my 2nd row. I’m currently in grad school at usc now so this might have to hold off for now.
I’m a total noob to AV as I’m getting into it after doing IT for 20 years this is a great video for people starting out like me
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
Dude, some alligator clips would highly benefit your life... he he.
That is a VERY true statement. I don't know why I have never purchased any. I have some on my work set but not for home.
"Just the tip " lol great video! I truly enjoyed it
Hahaha! Thanks for watching
Thank you
I made a MC4 cable/connectors/extension. Measured the voltage to the solar panel without light emitting to the panel. The voltage reads 0.59V is that ok? PS: I just want to know if the cables/connectors are installed correctly.
Thank you for helpful instruction
No Problem.
My multi tester has no beep so if not should the reading be zero for all these tests you did?
You can do the test with the ohm setting as well. Touch the meter probes together and look at the reading. That is the same reading you should see when another meter would make a beep.
great video. Very helpful
Glad you liked it!
Hi, great video! I’m trying to test a wire that goes from my car battery to my sub in the boot how do I do this with both ends not having connectors and it’s just the bare wire? (Also my multimeter doesn’t beep either).
Use the ohms setting and it will be easier with two people if you can find help. Once you’re in the ohms setting, look at the reading on the meter. I think it will read something like 1 (I may be wrong but it doesn’t matter what the reading is). Now touch the leads together. The meter will probably read something like 0 (once again I may be wrong but the number doesn’t matter). Note each value- whatever value it may be. Now have your buddy go to one side of the wire. He should not let the wire touch metal yet. You keep the meter on the other side. Touch one meter lead to the wire (don’t let the wire touch metal) and touch the other meter lead to a good grounded/bare metal spot on the car. You should have a reading on the meter that matches the reading you had earlier when the leads were NOT touching. Now tell your buddy to touch the wire to a good grounded/bare metal part of the car. If you are both on the same wire, the meter will read the same value it read earlier when you touched the two leads together (or close to it). If the meter value isn’t changing, you guys are either not using a good ground/bare metal surface or you’re on different wires. Good luck!
Or it IS the same wire but it’s cut somewhere.
Can you test HDMI and MiniHDMI with a multi meter? Been searching online but no answer so far, stumbled on your vid.
Theoretically yes but logistically, no. You’d have to pin each side and it would be extremely difficult with a regular electrical meter. It’s not uncommon to have a bad HDMI cable if that’s what you’re asking. If you have several going to the same place, you can use a similar method to identify wires, but testing is kind of asking a lot.
It’s also not uncommon to have an HDMI cable that handles one video signal but can’t handle a more advanced one
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Thank you for the information, much appreciated. Goodluck with your channel in 2020 !
hey,what about a single long wire that you cant reach the both ends,how you can check for continuity?and how to check which end is the wire in case they are the same color???thanks bro
Same setting on the meter. The person on one end of the long wire should put one of the meter leads on the outside of the connector and the other meter lead on the tip of the connector being careful not to let the leads touch each other. Then, someone on the other end of the long wire will take a small piece of wire or copper or whatever then use it to connect the outside of the connector to the tip. We call that a “short” and the person on the meter should hear it beep every time the other person connects the tip to the outside.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV thanks bro
"Just the Tip" hahahaha
My multimeter was free from Harbor Freight and does not beep; what kind of readings am I looking for?
Woo would have to use the OHMS setting then and check for open and closed circuits.
if the audio rca cables are good, how can we check the tv audio out holes? with the multimeter
That’s actually a really good question and I’m not sure how to answer it. I wouldn’t use a multimeter to test the audio out signal. I would use a different method depending on the application. Tell me about your problem and I’ll see what advice I can offer.
An Oscilloscope can be very handy. You can use that to see the audio signal coming out of the TV
what if your meter didn't come with a BEEP?
You can do it using the measurements on the OHM setting.
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV That answer is too vague.
@@Charles-in3zt Your reference to my comment is vague
what's a "short"? thought the title said this was supposed to be a video for beginners ??WTF??
A “short” is where two different conductors touch each other. For example in this scenario, the outside steel shielding is one conductor and the copper core is the other. If they touch each other even a little bit, we would say the two conductors are “shorted.” Good question. Sorry I didn’t clarify.
I heard you can use a tin foil on one side if you wanted to locate a working coax on the other. Example Some idiot contractor i hired decided to unplug most my coax and now I can't locate my directv line. I found my cable internet line with a splitter i got that to bring my new modem to my central location. I just know that my satellite coax is on the other side of the wall and I know the outlet its coming out from. I know find about 50 feet of unplugged coax i recently had a satellite guy hook up. I located the line that goes directly to the dish but can't locate the line that goes to the outlet. Maybe I should just plug in that unplugged extra coax direct and run that line down and make a new outlet. Aghh this contractor was a nightmare and all he was paid to do was put in recess lights.
I haven't heard the tin foil trick. I'm not sure I understand the lost cable. You found the line that goes to the dish but can't find the line that connects the central closet to the line from the dish?
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV Sorry it's hard to explain my situation. So i moved in a house that had a family room built. On the side wall it has an outlet that is for cable internet hook up and also a line for directv. Up in the attic half way, the whole side of the family room is practically blocked off. Those two lines are on the family side of the wall. If i really wanted i could crawl and squeeze to the other side with plenty of space but gotta do vice vesa if i wanted out. I actually used the foil method and it worked!!!!! So I covered the outside metal part adapter and covered the inside copper line or middle conductor with foil. Went up the attic to the 3 unknown coax, 2 were dead and the last one was it. Used a multi meter and set it on continuity. From there same concept of how you explained on checking if its live. Plus for more confirmation i had my gf take off foil and on again to make sure 100% its right.
all this said and my dtv box still giving 775 error code. I think i might have to terminate and crimp up some new coax lines. I have about 50 foot of fairly new coax sitting in the attic. I literally rolled it and tied it for future use.
@@FMD023 OH!!! Now I understand what the foil trick is. The tin foil shorts the tip to the outside shielding. Thats a clever idea. If you are absolutely positive you're on the correct wire and there is NO splitter anywhere in the lines, you should have a direct connection from the box to the dish. Make sure the DISH itself is powered up. It can be powered by the box if you have a box with that capability or you can use the power supply. If all of this is correct, you should be good to go. If not, maybe your dish is not aimed?
@@AlanCleggYouDoAV I’ll recheck the line to the dish one more time. In the meantime I’m working on getting these IRS to work. I been told I’ve plugged everything right just can’t seem to get right. I went the Balut route with extenders. Sending unit plug in IR in port and receive unit plug in Ir out. My rak is literally on the other side of the wall and about 25 feet away. 16 if u don’t count the bottom to top ceiling.it’s been frustrating yet rewarding. My home theater is almost complete. Just need to make a 12” riser for my 2nd row. I’m currently in grad school at usc now so this might have to hold off for now.
just the tip
No such thing
Very helpful instructions.You can find the Digital Multimeter produced by SUNSHINE on Amazon here www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MVFSN7T?ref=myi_title_dp
useless video if you don't show the setting of the multimeter.