after all, i thank you for your detailed expression and all of useful jobs. earlier i told you about your english and cat as a joke. if you understand it wrongly, i apologise you very much. english is not my native language like yours and i understand you clearly, so i, as an engineer, see your jobs very useful. you tell all of knowledges which drops on mind firstly. thanks again and greetings from the Turkey (or Turkiye, my country) to you and your cat :))
Thanks for another video! I admire your knowledge and the ability to explain how and why all pieces ought to be connected in order to deliver expected results. Great work and also good sense of humour. Kittens wandering around the lab - great combination of tech and nature in your videos :-)
Sorin, i have one thing to point out: for a 4s li-ion, the charging voltage should be 4.2x4 instead of 4.25x 4 16.8v is the correct voltage, and 17v is very slightly overcharging it. Personally, i would set the charge voltage to 16.5v to get a bit more longevity out of the cells at the expense of losing about 5% of the battery life. I can see why you chose 17v because that's the BMS protection voltage, but the BMS overcharge protection limit is something that you'd hit in unexpected circumstances, rather than all the time. Anyway, I rarely ever comment, but I have to say that i love your videos. Our thought processes are similar in terms of the diy ideas that we have, and our execution of those ideas are similar. I'm glad I found your channel, and on that day i subbed immediately 😁 Keep up the great work bro.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the 4.25V overcharge cut-off voltage is too high for Li-Ion cells. But I haven't found a BMS board with a lower overcharge protection voltage. I have found other BMS boards with the cut-off voltage at 4.27V or even 4.3V. this may sound strange, but there are Li-Po cells with max 4.35V. If you set a lower charging voltage and manually disconnect the charger when the battery reaches that voltage, then it's ok. But if you leave the charger connected overnight or for days, the cells will be continuously charged with a low current, because the battery voltage doesn't reach the cut-off voltage and this will damage the cells in time. in this case it is better for the cells to reach the cut-off voltage, even if it's a bit higher, and stop the charging process. I also made a video with the XH-M604 charging control board, you can use it to set any cut-off voltage you want, it's useful especially for bigger batteries.
This is also what I did for a 6S2P pack, but I had a problem with one CC/CV charger (similar to the one you show for the 8S pack) since it put into protection mode my 65W PD charger (although it was set to consume max 55W, and with a 100W charger it worked fine). So I also got a 6S mppt solar charge module since I wanted to also charge my pack with a 50W solar panel, and hooked that up to the 65W PD charger that acts like the solar panel and all went well that way.
Helpful! Glad you showed a BMS is not by itself a complete charger without a CV/CC module in front. BTW, heatsinks pasted to the plastic case of ICs and transistors is useless. The place to put the heat sink is the bottom of the board and install the board upside down.
I have seen a few of your videos, most informative but had trouble following this one as to a single charger. For instance for me I need a 82V charger. While not practical for travel I have found a Desktop Power supply works fine, with Constant Current and Constant Voltage Control. So basically, even at a smaller voltage amperage you are showing ( I need 10A to charge my cells), you are really showing the same conclusion. For unmonitored charging A CC and CV system is desired.
You can actually increase the efficiency further by using USB-C PPS and removing the buck/boost modules but that will require a bit more complex trigger board.
Asta am zis si eu din prima!:)))Dar lasand glumitele la o parte, tutorialul a fost chiar bun, explicat pe intelesul tuturor! Si topping ul de pisici a fost si mai si!
Nice Project as usual. How about adding a WZ3605E DC DC Buck Boost Converter to make a portable rechargeable variable power supply in addition to the 5V usb output in your power bank.
Nice video!, I always wonder what the maximum voltage should i put at the input of the BMS, because I want the balancing function to be activated but I also don't want to go over the voltage and burn the bms.
I have a lot of 18650 cells that i gathered from dead laptops, a couple of months ago while making a project encountered an angry LI cells incident and since then I started treating them with more respect, so I will use extra caution with a project like this one because i am using old and already too used batteries, I wish Sodium Ion cells to get more popular for safety and reliability reasons although energy density is lower.
I can speak faster, but I received suggestions from non-english speaking viewers to speak slower, because my accent makes it harder for them to understand me.
Thanks for another great video. Love your videos as opposed to others because you balance science and pedagogy nicely so I understand what you are saying. 🙂👍 Btw. please get back to me when you find some time through email.
Hi sir please help me, i am big fan your work, I learned a lot,i have two buck converters szbk07 and lb07, on both of them current adjustment option does not work even on load applied, i even changed the cc pot with 100k precision pot .how to fix this?please its really impotent to me
lol i got a 54liter 12v dc compressor refrigerator that i wired to a 28v dc trigger board. waiting for a 140w pd 3.1 charger to come in the mail but its running fine off my dc powersupply. thinking it will be more efficient. at 12v it was already only using 150wh/day which i think is worth it as a drink fridge since my main fridge isnt even that efficient and when you open the door all the air falls out. guessing my fridge is working on 28v no problem coz most of the 12v dc compressors also work for 24v and 28v is still in the 24v spec since lead acid fully charged voltage can be around 30v with 2 in series like most big rig trucks
An XY3580 or XY3606 (80W 5A max vs 216W 6A max output) would be a much simpler way. I do this with a 20V trigger on an Aliexpress charger I got for $22 that is called "268W Gan charger" but its not really a 268W charger in any way...but the top port will do 20V 5A if nothing else is plugged in. The moment you use a second port the top port drops to 65W so still 20V but only 3.25A. So until we get 240W PD the 216W buck boost module can't be used at its full potential....but the price difference between the 3580 and 3606 is so small ($17 vs $23) that I'd recommend getting the 3606. $22 PD charger with a 20V trigger into the $23 XY3606 and I now have ~100W of power to charge anything up to 36V....so will not work for 10S and up batteries and it won't fully charge a 9S...who uses 9S though?
Hey man, I stumbled across your channel while trying to learn a thing or two about batteries for a problem I have, and I was hoping maybe you or one of your knowledgeable viewers could help me out. (Please excuse me if my English isn't perfect.) I have a Shark Wandvac 2.0 vacuum cleaner without a battery. It originally comes with a 14.4-volt Li-Ion battery, but sadly, where I'm from, you can't buy any replacement batteries for it. The vacuum only has two connectors for the battery, so I asked myself if it would be possible to get a simple 4S1P 14.4V battery pack and connect it to the vacuum cleaner. However, none of the batteries I could find have a BMS built in (apparently, these things are quite necessary to prevent issues like blowing up, so I thought it would be better to have one of those). Now my question is: Is it possible to get one of those battery packs and just solder it to the vacuum, and I'll be good to go? Or do I have to fear my vacuum blowing up on me while using or charging it? I sadly don’t know if the original battery has a BMS (is that even possible with only two connectors?). If not, I'd guess that the necessary protection circuits are built into the vacuum itself and the charger? I hope what I typed out is somewhat comprehensible, and I would be really thankful for a response. Thank you so much in advance!
Hi. If there are only 2 wires going to the battery, then the battery must have a BMS board. And you can't use any type of cells, you need high drain cells.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you so much for your response! The only battery i could find that has the right format is a replacement battery for a "iLife V50 V55 V3s Pro V5s Pro V8s X750 Robot Vacuum Cleaner Battery" from Aliexpress which is advertised as having a BMS. I know that these chinese cells dont have the best reputation and that there are different BMS-modules, but i hope that overheating wont be a problem in a small vacuum cleaner. Do you think that a cheap batterypack like that would be okay to use or is it to dangerous? Of course i know that you cant give me any definitve answers, but i simply would be really thankful for some insight from someone who is far more knowledgeable in this topic than me. Thank you for your help!
In my video I showed how to use the maximum charging current without overloading the charger. But using a CC/CV converter you can adjust the charging current depending on what type of battery you use. Even the simple boost converter/charging module, you can order the module with a lower or a higher charging current depending on your battery.
@@Sorin_DIY I have used a CC/CV buck converter before with 3s2p pack and it got destroyed after sometime bcs of just supply 1amp to it some of the cell got hot.
The voltage is a little too high, but it will work. The problem is that when the cells will reach the cut-off voltage of 4.25V, they will still draw a high charging current, when the charging process is finished. The final charging current at the cut-off voltage should be around 100mA. But because there will be a big difference between the charging voltage and the battery voltage, the charging process will end with a higher current probably 500mA or more. You can add a Schottky diode between the converter and BMS to decrease the voltage with 0.4~0.5V. This will help the charging process to finish with a lower current.
Now if you simply charged at 100mA you'd charge the high cell with 0 charge current while the others catch up. Then you don't have to worry about overvoltage cutoff.
yes, but in that case you need to manually disconnect the charger, otherwise the balance resistors will continue to draw power from the charger and they will heat up.
It depends on the load. I tested this type of cell holders with 3A and they work fine. the contacts may heat up with a higher current, you always need to test the components before the final build.
Yes, there are cheap 5A or 10A thermal switches that can be used for a simple thermal protection for circuits or batteries. they are ok for testing or for hobby projects. for professional projects there are also more complex and expensive thermal protection solutions.
Salut. Am mai văzut acest modul pe la laptop-urile mai vechi care nu au acest port. Urmează să cumpăr unul pentru a-mi face vechiul laptop mai versatil. Aveți o idee prin care să fac dintr-un alimentator de 40W un încărcător usb-c universal cu PD?
Salut, nu cred ca se poate modifica acel alimentator intr-un incarcator USB cu PD, dar poti sa cumperi separat in incarcator cu PD, sunt si variante destul de ieftine si bunicele.
Cablurile usb nu sunt limitate in curent. Ai vrut sa spui ca modelul pe care il ai tu poate duce doar 3A? La incarcarea cu 140W cablul duce pana la 28V cu 5A
Da, m-am grabit in exprimare, era vorba de curentul maxim recomandat de producatorul cablului. sunt si cabluri USB care functioneaza cu un curent mai mare, nu am zis ca toate functioneaza cu 3A. Intr-un clip mai vechi am aratat cum sunt pierderi pe cablurile USB, in special pe cabluri mai lungi, de calitate slaba sau cu tip de conectare microUSB. Cele folosite de mine in clip sunt cel lung de 3A si cel scurt de 6A.
Salut. Inseamna ca o sa ai o baterie 3S7P. Trebuie sa verifici si capacitatea reala a celulelor si iti trebuie si un modul 3S BMS. Iti trebuie un incarcator puternic, altfel dureaza prea mult incarcarea. Depinde ce capacitate reala are bateria si in cat timp vrei sa o incarci, apoi poti sa stabilesti ce incarcatori sa folosesti.
@@Sorin_DIY majoritatea celulelor sunt testate individual si au cam 1700-1790 mah fiecare. Provin din baterii de trotinete. Am si BMS 3S dar nu stiu ce incarcator sa folosesc. Cam cat o sa fie capacitatea bateriei rezultate?
pentru celule de 1700mAh bateria o sa aiba 11900mAh, adica 11,9Ah. cu un incarcator de 12,6V si 3A o sa dureze cam 5 ore sa incarci bateria de la 0 la 100%.
@@Sorin_DIY nu stiu cum ai facut calculul dar merci de rasp. Inseamna ca tre sa caut un incarcator de 12.6 v si un minim 3 Ah. Tre sa fie ceva special? Multumesc inca o data de rasp
Iti trebuie un incarcator de genul acesta: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCdktsD trebuie sa scrie pe el Li-Ion charger, acestea functioneaza cu constant current/constant voltage pentru a incarca bateria. nu e de ajuns un simplu "alimentator" de 12.6V. daca vrei sa incarci cu mai mult de 3A, se complica putin, pentru ca iti trebuie fire mai groase peste tot si conectori care rezista la 5A sau mai mult, altfel se incing firele si conectorii si se pierde multa energie.
hello, thanks for the useful videos. I have a secret problem like this, can you help me. I want to use XL4015 for 4S3P battery charging. I set the voltage to 17V and the current to 2A. When I connect the battery to the output, the light on the XL4015 module is on. The module draws small currents without connecting anything to the input. When I make the battery and charging module a closed box and charge the battery, the battery is discharged after a while due to this leakage current. To prevent this, I connected a diode to the output of the module, but this time the diode gets very hot due to the current drawn during battery charging. What can I do to solve this?
Hi. You need to add a more powerful diode between the converter and battery, like 10SQ045 with max 10A. In this case you need to increase the output voltage to around 17.5V to compensate for the diode forward voltage drop. It' better to measure the voltage after the diode with a small load connected. Or you can lower the charging current cu 1A or 1.5A. Or you can add a small relay powered by the charger, to connect the output of the converter to the battery, when you plug in the charger.
![Simple fast charging powerbank [DIY]](/img/n.gif)
after all, i thank you for your detailed expression and all of useful jobs. earlier i told you about your english and cat as a joke. if you understand it wrongly, i apologise you very much. english is not my native language like yours and i understand you clearly, so i, as an engineer, see your jobs very useful. you tell all of knowledges which drops on mind firstly.
thanks again and greetings from the Turkey (or Turkiye, my country) to you and your cat :))
Sorin please upload more
Thanks for another video! I admire your knowledge and the ability to explain how and why all pieces ought to be connected in order to deliver expected results. Great work and also good sense of humour. Kittens wandering around the lab - great combination of tech and nature in your videos :-)
Sorin, i have one thing to point out: for a 4s li-ion, the charging voltage should be 4.2x4 instead of 4.25x 4
16.8v is the correct voltage, and 17v is very slightly overcharging it. Personally, i would set the charge voltage to 16.5v to get a bit more longevity out of the cells at the expense of losing about 5% of the battery life.
I can see why you chose 17v because that's the BMS protection voltage, but the BMS overcharge protection limit is something that you'd hit in unexpected circumstances, rather than all the time.
Anyway,
I rarely ever comment, but I have to say that i love your videos. Our thought processes are similar in terms of the diy ideas that we have, and our execution of those ideas are similar. I'm glad I found your channel, and on that day i subbed immediately 😁
Keep up the great work bro.
Thanks for the comment. Yes, the 4.25V overcharge cut-off voltage is too high for Li-Ion cells. But I haven't found a BMS board with a lower overcharge protection voltage. I have found other BMS boards with the cut-off voltage at 4.27V or even 4.3V. this may sound strange, but there are Li-Po cells with max 4.35V.
If you set a lower charging voltage and manually disconnect the charger when the battery reaches that voltage, then it's ok.
But if you leave the charger connected overnight or for days, the cells will be continuously charged with a low current, because the battery voltage doesn't reach the cut-off voltage and this will damage the cells in time. in this case it is better for the cells to reach the cut-off voltage, even if it's a bit higher, and stop the charging process.
I also made a video with the XH-M604 charging control board, you can use it to set any cut-off voltage you want, it's useful especially for bigger batteries.
@@Sorin_DIY ah I appreciate the clarification and the suggestion. Thanks a lot
Sorin son your videos are very clear and very neat. May you be able to energy this world.❤
This is also what I did for a 6S2P pack, but I had a problem with one CC/CV charger (similar to the one you show for the 8S pack) since it put into protection mode my 65W PD charger (although it was set to consume max 55W, and with a 100W charger it worked fine).
So I also got a 6S mppt solar charge module since I wanted to also charge my pack with a 50W solar panel, and hooked that up to the 65W PD charger that acts like the solar panel and all went well that way.
Nice work mate 👍 subbed and liked. Cheers from Australia 👍
One to rule them all :))) Great project as usual!
Excellent, thanks Sorin
awesome as always!
Helpful! Glad you showed a BMS is not by itself a complete charger without a CV/CC module in front. BTW, heatsinks pasted to the plastic case of ICs and transistors is useless. The place to put the heat sink is the bottom of the board and install the board upside down.
they're not made out of plastic
@@danielsuess5921 Epoxy-Cresol-Novolak (ECN) is considered a polymer.
😁 I was just quoting someone else. ua-cam.com/video/6GnoQxTYjVI/v-deo.htmlsi=LmiWdjnp40tCC7_I&t=314
@@danielsuess5921 I was just quoting what Julian Ilett said 5 or more minutes into his most recent.
I have seen a few of your videos, most informative but had trouble following this one as to a single charger. For instance for me I need a 82V charger. While not practical for travel I have found a Desktop Power supply works fine, with Constant Current and Constant Voltage Control. So basically, even at a smaller voltage amperage you are showing ( I need 10A to charge my cells), you are really showing the same conclusion. For unmonitored charging A CC and CV system is desired.
You can actually increase the efficiency further by using USB-C PPS and removing the buck/boost modules but that will require a bit more complex trigger board.
Good information.
Hi sorin, big fan of your work. I dont know if you can refer me to some place or website where i can electronics like these
"my name is Sorin", well I know what country you were born in already
Ranamia 🇷🇴
Asta am zis si eu din prima!:)))Dar lasand glumitele la o parte, tutorialul a fost chiar bun, explicat pe intelesul tuturor! Si topping ul de pisici a fost si mai si!
Keep up the good work Sorin!
Like your work from india 🇮🇳
Hello sorin,please next any project using super capacitor
Nice Project as usual.
How about adding a
WZ3605E DC DC Buck Boost Converter
to make a portable rechargeable variable power supply in addition to the 5V usb
output in your power bank.
Nice video!, I always wonder what the maximum voltage should i put at the input of the BMS, because I want the balancing function to be activated but I also don't want to go over the voltage and burn the bms.
May God enlighten you, engineer. Please do a small thing for us, make a video about the completion of charging in bMS. Thank you.
+1
Made a video on BMS LED to complete the charging like TP 4056 and thank you
Very impressive
I have a lot of 18650 cells that i gathered from dead laptops, a couple of months ago while making a project encountered an angry LI cells incident and since then I started treating them with more respect, so I will use extra caution with a project like this one because i am using old and already too used batteries, I wish Sodium Ion cells to get more popular for safety and reliability reasons although energy density is lower.
have you tried speeding up your speech in post by 1.1 or 1.2?, I know it's your second language and you are doing great, you have one 👍from me
I can speak faster, but I received suggestions from non-english speaking viewers to speak slower, because my accent makes it harder for them to understand me.
Love from Bangladesh
Thanks for another great video. Love your videos as opposed to others because you balance science and pedagogy nicely so I understand what you are saying. 🙂👍 Btw. please get back to me when you find some time through email.
Hi sir please help me, i am big fan your work, I learned a lot,i have two buck converters szbk07 and lb07, on both of them current adjustment option does not work even on load applied, i even changed the cc pot with 100k precision pot .how to fix this?please its really impotent to me
lol i got a 54liter 12v dc compressor refrigerator that i wired to a 28v dc trigger board. waiting for a 140w pd 3.1 charger to come in the mail but its running fine off my dc powersupply. thinking it will be more efficient. at 12v it was already only using 150wh/day which i think is worth it as a drink fridge since my main fridge isnt even that efficient and when you open the door all the air falls out.
guessing my fridge is working on 28v no problem coz most of the 12v dc compressors also work for 24v and 28v is still in the 24v spec since lead acid fully charged voltage can be around 30v with 2 in series like most big rig trucks
i'm here for the cat
An XY3580 or XY3606 (80W 5A max vs 216W 6A max output) would be a much simpler way. I do this with a 20V trigger on an Aliexpress charger I got for $22 that is called "268W Gan charger" but its not really a 268W charger in any way...but the top port will do 20V 5A if nothing else is plugged in. The moment you use a second port the top port drops to 65W so still 20V but only 3.25A. So until we get 240W PD the 216W buck boost module can't be used at its full potential....but the price difference between the 3580 and 3606 is so small ($17 vs $23) that I'd recommend getting the 3606.
$22 PD charger with a 20V trigger into the $23 XY3606 and I now have ~100W of power to charge anything up to 36V....so will not work for 10S and up batteries and it won't fully charge a 9S...who uses 9S though?
What if you connect more chargers and charger modules in parallel? Is it charging faster (bigger current)? Or is it working at all?
It will not work in this configuration, the modules may burn.
Hey man,
I stumbled across your channel while trying to learn a thing or two about batteries for a problem I have, and I was hoping maybe you or one of your knowledgeable viewers could help me out. (Please excuse me if my English isn't perfect.)
I have a Shark Wandvac 2.0 vacuum cleaner without a battery. It originally comes with a 14.4-volt Li-Ion battery, but sadly, where I'm from, you can't buy any replacement batteries for it.
The vacuum only has two connectors for the battery, so I asked myself if it would be possible to get a simple 4S1P 14.4V battery pack and connect it to the vacuum cleaner. However, none of the batteries I could find have a BMS built in (apparently, these things are quite necessary to prevent issues like blowing up, so I thought it would be better to have one of those).
Now my question is: Is it possible to get one of those battery packs and just solder it to the vacuum, and I'll be good to go? Or do I have to fear my vacuum blowing up on me while using or charging it? I sadly don’t know if the original battery has a BMS (is that even possible with only two connectors?). If not, I'd guess that the necessary protection circuits are built into the vacuum itself and the charger?
I hope what I typed out is somewhat comprehensible, and I would be really thankful for a response.
Thank you so much in advance!
Hi. If there are only 2 wires going to the battery, then the battery must have a BMS board.
And you can't use any type of cells, you need high drain cells.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you so much for your response!
The only battery i could find that has the right format is a replacement battery for a "iLife V50 V55 V3s Pro V5s Pro V8s X750 Robot Vacuum Cleaner Battery" from Aliexpress which is advertised as having a BMS. I know that these chinese cells dont have the best reputation and that there are different BMS-modules, but i hope that overheating wont be a problem in a small vacuum cleaner.
Do you think that a cheap batterypack like that would be okay to use or is it to dangerous?
Of course i know that you cant give me any definitve answers, but i simply would be really thankful for some insight from someone who is far more knowledgeable in this topic than me.
Thank you for your help!
If the battery is also made for a vacuum cleaner and if it has the same voltage, so the same number of cells, then it should work.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you!
I believe a dedicated charging module has stages of charge not only one stage like buck converters have so it might ruin your batteries.
In my video I showed how to use the maximum charging current without overloading the charger. But using a CC/CV converter you can adjust the charging current depending on what type of battery you use.
Even the simple boost converter/charging module, you can order the module with a lower or a higher charging current depending on your battery.
@@Sorin_DIY yes I know that but the right way is to use stages of charge like a tp4056 chip offers.
@@Sorin_DIY I have used a CC/CV buck converter before with 3s2p pack and it got destroyed after sometime bcs of just supply 1amp to it some of the cell got hot.
@@Sorin_DIY I even used a BMS
@@Sorin_DIY but using tp4056 on the same cell brought them back to life.
👏🏼
the one that charges them all
Literally I thought it's a 3D video at first😂
I have already the cheap boards. They give about 13,5 Volts for 3s. Is it suitable for 3s batteries to charge?
The voltage is a little too high, but it will work. The problem is that when the cells will reach the cut-off voltage of 4.25V, they will still draw a high charging current, when the charging process is finished.
The final charging current at the cut-off voltage should be around 100mA. But because there will be a big difference between the charging voltage and the battery voltage, the charging process will end with a higher current probably 500mA or more.
You can add a Schottky diode between the converter and BMS to decrease the voltage with 0.4~0.5V. This will help the charging process to finish with a lower current.
Now if you simply charged at 100mA you'd charge the high cell with 0 charge current while the others catch up. Then you don't have to worry about overvoltage cutoff.
yes, but in that case you need to manually disconnect the charger, otherwise the balance resistors will continue to draw power from the charger and they will heat up.
If you are using an amplifier that has reccomended rating of 12V (over 3A reccomended) won't the cell holder overheat?
This type of cell holders is very good. But for a big battery pack it's recommended to spot weld the cells.
@@Sorin_DIY So, if I use a 3S battery pack with this holder and solder from the contacts to BMS will it not overheat?
It depends on the load. I tested this type of cell holders with 3A and they work fine. the contacts may heat up with a higher current, you always need to test the components before the final build.
Eu stiam ca esti roman de cum ti am vazut clipurile
Don't forget to add over-temperature protection - a battery fire is one nasty discharge you'd want to avoid
Yes, I also have a video about thermal protection for batteries.
@@Sorin_DIY Is it the one where the switch has a rated limit of 5A?
I would only use that for low powered devices, drawing 2-3 amps max.
Yes, there are cheap 5A or 10A thermal switches that can be used for a simple thermal protection for circuits or batteries. they are ok for testing or for hobby projects.
for professional projects there are also more complex and expensive thermal protection solutions.
Salut. Am mai văzut acest modul pe la laptop-urile mai vechi care nu au acest port. Urmează să cumpăr unul pentru a-mi face vechiul laptop mai versatil. Aveți o idee prin care să fac dintr-un alimentator de 40W un încărcător usb-c universal cu PD?
Salut, nu cred ca se poate modifica acel alimentator intr-un incarcator USB cu PD, dar poti sa cumperi separat in incarcator cu PD, sunt si variante destul de ieftine si bunicele.
Cablurile usb nu sunt limitate in curent. Ai vrut sa spui ca modelul pe care il ai tu poate duce doar 3A?
La incarcarea cu 140W cablul duce pana la 28V cu 5A
Da, m-am grabit in exprimare, era vorba de curentul maxim recomandat de producatorul cablului. sunt si cabluri USB care functioneaza cu un curent mai mare, nu am zis ca toate functioneaza cu 3A.
Intr-un clip mai vechi am aratat cum sunt pierderi pe cablurile USB, in special pe cabluri mai lungi, de calitate slaba sau cu tip de conectare microUSB.
Cele folosite de mine in clip sunt cel lung de 3A si cel scurt de 6A.
Salut. Vreau sa imi fac o baterie din 21 celule 3 S. Dar cum incarc bateria rezultata? Ce incarcator sa folosesc fara sa fac modificari ....
Salut. Inseamna ca o sa ai o baterie 3S7P. Trebuie sa verifici si capacitatea reala a celulelor si iti trebuie si un modul 3S BMS. Iti trebuie un incarcator puternic, altfel dureaza prea mult incarcarea.
Depinde ce capacitate reala are bateria si in cat timp vrei sa o incarci, apoi poti sa stabilesti ce incarcatori sa folosesti.
@@Sorin_DIY majoritatea celulelor sunt testate individual si au cam 1700-1790 mah fiecare. Provin din baterii de trotinete. Am si BMS 3S dar nu stiu ce incarcator sa folosesc. Cam cat o sa fie capacitatea bateriei rezultate?
pentru celule de 1700mAh bateria o sa aiba 11900mAh, adica 11,9Ah. cu un incarcator de 12,6V si 3A o sa dureze cam 5 ore sa incarci bateria de la 0 la 100%.
@@Sorin_DIY nu stiu cum ai facut calculul dar merci de rasp. Inseamna ca tre sa caut un incarcator de 12.6 v si un minim 3 Ah. Tre sa fie ceva special? Multumesc inca o data de rasp
Iti trebuie un incarcator de genul acesta: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCdktsD
trebuie sa scrie pe el Li-Ion charger, acestea functioneaza cu constant current/constant voltage pentru a incarca bateria.
nu e de ajuns un simplu "alimentator" de 12.6V.
daca vrei sa incarci cu mai mult de 3A, se complica putin, pentru ca iti trebuie fire mai groase peste tot si conectori care rezista la 5A sau mai mult, altfel se incing firele si conectorii si se pierde multa energie.
fa un step up converter din 4 tranzistori 12v la 220v
Sorin am nevoie de un convertor care sa urce de la 24v la 50 volt,i exista asa ceva si daca da cum se numeste ?
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dc7Fk9v
hello,
thanks for the useful videos. I have a secret problem like this, can you help me.
I want to use XL4015 for 4S3P battery charging. I set the voltage to 17V and the current to 2A. When I connect the battery to the output, the light on the XL4015 module is on. The module draws small currents without connecting anything to the input. When I make the battery and charging module a closed box and charge the battery, the battery is discharged after a while due to this leakage current. To prevent this, I connected a diode to the output of the module, but this time the diode gets very hot due to the current drawn during battery charging. What can I do to solve this?
Hi. You need to add a more powerful diode between the converter and battery, like 10SQ045 with max 10A. In this case you need to increase the output voltage to around 17.5V to compensate for the diode forward voltage drop. It' better to measure the voltage after the diode with a small load connected.
Or you can lower the charging current cu 1A or 1.5A.
Or you can add a small relay powered by the charger, to connect the output of the converter to the battery, when you plug in the charger.
@@Sorin_DIY The relay seems more usable against the heating problem of the diode, thank you
Nive😊
Can i use different amp capacity batteries with bms card...?
it's not recommended.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank u mate.
Yuhuuu
I have tried the second method which is pretty bad in my opinion
The modules get really hot af and charging 3s 4Ah battery took 30+ hour to complete
You really forgot the amps and heat.
fourth
BS
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