What I REALLY like about your videos is: the fact that you do the math, show the math and explain the circuit analysis. It is very important, don't ever skip this step.
Thanks for the info; so, this only about efficiency and support for higher voltage, isn't it? And the current output didn't affected, still at 2.5A max, yes? 🤔
@@fatoniwahyuutama6591 That is correct. It's mostly about higher efficiency and higher voltage support (working with a 2S battery pack instead of 1S has its advantages). I should look for higher current alternatives that have the same feature set.
I have just finished UPS 5V 10A. What you need to do is: 2 batteries in series and then 2-3 pairs like this in parallel. You will end up with 8V. And then instead of step up converter, use buck converter - they are much more efficient. My UPS on 2 batteries only can deliver 10A with 5.2V at the output for few good minutes while my servers will have enough time to shut down.
This version of your model is becoming bigger and better and i like it, Ups for a raspberry pi NAS, but for reliability lets change the relays for something else (solid state relay ) to avoid mechanical wear failures, with the previous 12v and this 5v UPS network and computer will not notice that there is a power outage anymore.
Thank you Professor Sorin, This video was my first attendance of your DIY classes. I am sure all of your DIY classes are of similar high caliber: to the point w/ no B.S., just occasional comedy relief by 'cat'. I have now matriculated to be a full time student for your lectures. Bravo!
Impressive as always, especially with all that extra help you have been getting. Tracking the voltage drop through the circuit is a good sanity check on where efficiency is being lost although the downside in modifying bought-in modules is needing to remake them each time ... but such is life. Great project, and I’m looking forwards to a Christmas special featuring your assistant’s contributions over they year 👍😀🎁
Hey man I have been watching your videos due to two years and i have no words to explain that how you cover the video in deep detail excellent job bro👏👏
This looks really good! Nice job! I would really like to see you redo you 12volt UPS with this quality. I would really like to see what you come with. Again job and keep it up!!!
great job as always....maybe in the next build, you can use an IC that can fast charge the 6 cell pack in about 4-6 hrs instead IP5328P can be a start point for your next video research. thanks for the great video once again.
LMAO "but you're a grown ass man, don't let it get that low" I love your videos! Nice project. I wish us here in the USA had a place to get PCBs made and shipped as cheaply as you all do. I went to try one of those places and the shipping was outrageous.
During the demonstration, you connected the USB connector to the power supply with thin wires, of course you will have noticeable losses. And USB cables come in different qualities, you can just use a high-quality long wire and it will transfer current at least up to 3A calmly.
the USB port wires from the test are very short and they are from a PC PSU, so they can carry a few amps with no problem. they are thicker than any USB cable, so that's not where the power loses are. you can see that there is a big voltage drop difference between the USB cables, even with a low 1A current, using the same wires on the PSU/USB port. the biggest problem is the microUSB connectors, they get hot with more than 2A, because they have a higher contact resistance than the USB type C connectors. the length of USB cables is also important, if 2 cables have the same quality and one is 2 times longer than the other, it will have 2 times the resistance.
There are better charger ICs which can pass through power while charging the batteries ... see for example MCP73871 and see Microchip's AN1149 application note. I don't like that big diode, there's better solutions or at the very least a DPAK or TO-220 version that can be put on a heatsink. I would have liked to see a couple footprints for capacitors, so one could put a couple 2200-3300uF capacitors instead of 4700uF capacitors which are less common - the lower values could even be harvested from older hardware like broken ATX power supplies. You could have put a barrel jack connector to accept 7.5v .. 12v wallwart adapter, put a dc-dc converter to bring it down to 5v and higher current, give 1A of current to the charger and the rest could be passed through to the boost regulator to output 5v.
I'm watching your videos and you do a great job, maybe in the future you'll try 3D printing for your cases, so that you'll have genuine good looking custom projects.
Could you build one with a 12v battery bank (and BMS of course), and step down dc-dc converters, this way if there is power loss, there is no delay time between "charging" and power supplied...I would also bet there would be longer run time as more efficient dc-dc converters would more efficiently convert the 12vdc to 5vdc
+1, only hic, 12V will required some BMS and keeping the batts balanced and I guess a bit bigger. But a very good option! I did the same for a portable variable power supply, 12V to variable Voltage. Instead to increase from 5V to around 12V and more. 4.2V to 5V is fine, but forget about 4.2V to 12V, to much lost.
Holy crap I have that same soldering iron on table where cat plays with components. Never seen anyone else with this iron lol. Also...awesome Friday the 13th shirt My girlfriend will be jealous
Overall conceptul si executia sunt bune, se pot optimiza multe aspecte. Fun fact, NCR18650A suporta 1.4A curent de incarcare standard, NCR18650 1.9A standard, NCR18650B 1.6A standard, etc.; timpul indelungat cu un curent mic de incarcare nu prelungesc viata celulelor, este doar un mit pt. Li-Ion/Li-Po/LiFePO4 , este recomandat trickle charging doar pentru baterii cu altfel de chimie cum ar fi Ni-Mh si derivate, plumb acid sau alte baterii cu o compozitie chimica care necesita conditii specifice de incarcare. Problema cu montajul tau sunt pierderile enormede trebuia sa ai pierderide maxim 0.2V la portul USB de iesire, asta se rezolva prin calcule destul de lungi alegeri de componente cu low voltage drop si o tensiune mai mare a bateriei desigur si celule cu un curent ma mare de descarcare minim 10A.
if you use a powerbank as a UPS, the battery will be charged and discharged continuously. most powerbanks will not work this way and even if it does work, it will damage the battery. for a 9V or a 12V UPS you need a bigger battery pack with a higher voltage.
Sorine, m-am indragostit de canalu tau. Te rog frumos sa mai scoti clipuri, am invatat multe de la tine. Si eu cochetez cu baterii si mai inlocuiesc celule pe acumulatori de masini de gaurit, desi probabil detin 5% din cunostintele tale. Sper sa vad cat de curand o notificare de la tine :D La multi ani!
Nice design, if I suggest for a new project can you make a 12v ups powered by a car power outlet. I have a 4g router and it would be cool to have it as a mobile hotspot but on my car, it cuts the power when you start the engine and have to wait for a couple of minutes to initialize...
I don't think you need a UPS. when you start the engine, the battery voltage drops for a second, or the car disconnects all the loads, including the car outlet, so all the power goes to the engine. you can try to add a schottky, like 10SQ045, after the car outlet, then a big capacitor 10000uF 25V, or maybe even 2 in parallel, then the wires go to the router. this should be enough to keep the voltage stable at the input of the router, until the engine starts.
I see, I'll check if the outlet drops or cuts the voltage. I was also thinking the battery part because the car outlet goes to ~14.7V and might be a bit too much for the router. If I could stabilize the voltage at 12V it would be good although the Li-on batteries would get stressed. Maybe I'll use a buck converter and package everything in a cable or a little box with input/output. I'm not sure if this idea is video worthy but when I get the chance I'll try it out...
I'm here looking to solve a similar problem with a mini UPS. In my case I have a 110 AC plug in the car that I could use to power the UPS, or I could use the 12v outlet. I want to use the Netgear Nighthawk M6 Pro 5g/4g hotspot device in "AC Mode" (bypasses internal battery and turns off its own wifi) as a modem connected by short ethernet cable to the GL.iNet Beryl AX for use as a the wifi router. I also want the UPS to power a Chromecast with Google TV device connected to the car's HDMI input for rear seat entertainment. All 3 devices take 5v dc power. The AC outlet in my vehicle turns off whenever the car turns off. I would like the UPS to keep all 3 devices powered on for at least 10-15 minutes after I turn off the car, so if my kids are watching something and I need to stop for gas or a bathroom break we don't have to wait for everything to boot back up and then restart the program when the car turns back on.
I wish channels would respond....but I'll try. Could this be used to power cameras from phones or laptops? I want to harvest all the camera modules from the 15 broken phones and laptops I have to make a security system. The issue is providing the power and data lines. I could harvest the adapters from the boards and hook them up on something like this.
great video! when power supply is interrupted, you said there is a short delay before switching to battery mode, is it possible to use a capacitor instead of battery + FR607 diode?
That's what I guessed! So if you use battery + FR607 diode as backup power source, I don't understand why you need a relay except to bypass the FR607's voltage drop. But since there is a step up at the end, it should not be a voltage issue. Is it to reduce the overall current drawn? Or something I misunderstand?
How does the boost converter behave when batteries are low? (tp4056 cuts off at 2v-2.5v?) Apparently some boost converter will output nasty spikes over the set output when input voltage drops
@@richardlighthouse5328 It's also battery protection, which cuts off very low 2v-2.5v. My question is how the chosen boost module behaves when the input voltage drops to those levels (when AC power doesn't return for extended period). Some boost modules have strange output behaviour with very low 1s input
@@Not_Sure-i6o Wrong. TP4056 modules have separate low voltage protection IC that triggers around 2.4V which IMO is very low for Li-Ion battery. The boost converter is from China, so there are no data given on it's performance. If boost converter has strange output then you're probably running outside of it's parameters. If you use that boost converter with
@@richardlighthouse5328 Right, I was referring to the cutoff on those "TP4056 module" not the tp4056 IC itself. I'm not asking if boost module will behave correctly down to 0v, just down to the what we both agree is absurdly low cutoff of those "tp4056 module"
I know what you are talking about. For that boost converter, you need to make some modification to prevent that spike. It's very cheap and simple modification. I'll try to find that video if you are interested.
when the super capacitor is charged, it will work. but it's difficult to charge the super cap from 0V. it will take a lot of time, the output voltage will drop, or the step up converter will shut down, exactly how it happened in my older 5V UPS with 3 capacitors on the output. it takes several attempts to turn on the UPS on battery.
Salut,analizând schema ta,cred că se poate renunța la dioda D3(10SQ045).În felul ăsta,tensiunea de 5 volți de la încărcător intră direct în booster prin contactul 2-5 al releului.Din câte am observat la boostere,tensiunea de intrare trebuie să fie cuprinsă între o valoare minimă,cam 0,9 volți,și maxim tensiunea de ieșire reglată.Cu alte cuvinte,când este prezentă tensiunea din încărcător,în booster intră 5 volți și ies 5 volți.
Salut. in majoritatea cazurilor o sa mearga. dar sunt si unele incarcatoare USB care au 5.2V sau chiar 5.3V, iar unele convertoare nu functioneaza cum trebuie, daca tensiunea de intrare e mai mare decat tensiunea ceruta la iesire. nu am incercat convertorul acesta sa vad cum se comporta. dar cu un incarcator bun de 5V sau 5.1V (din care o sa mai fie mici pierderi de tensiune) si 5.1V sau chiar 5.15V la iesire ar trebui sa functioneze stabil. eu am pus dioda sa acopar toate variantele si sa fiu sigur ca functioneaza stabil, de ex poate cineva vrea fix 5V la iesire. dar da, cu un incarcator bun se poate elimina dioda si sa fie reglat convertorul sa lucreze stabil.
05:33 Is the importance of voltage drop difference of D4 and D3 relevant even when you are using a relay? also I would like to know the purpose of D1 and D2.
Yes, the voltage difference is important, because when the mains power is present and the relay is powered, the pin 2 of the relay is connected with the pin 5 and both diodes (charger and battery) will deliver current to the converter, so it's important that the charger voltage after the diode will be higher. The D4 will deliver power from the battery to the converter at a lower voltage, only for a fraction of a second, when the mains is interrupted until the relay switches to battery power and bypasses D4. D1 is a flyback diode, it's connected across the relay coil, to eliminate the high voltage spike created by the inductor or coil, when the power is switched off. D2 decreases the voltage which powers the relay from 5.1V to about 4.5V, so the relay will switch faster when the mains (charger) is discontinued, because the voltage will drop from a lower value.
@@Sorin_DIY YES!!! I figured out my first part of the question while waiting for your reply. Thank you for dropping huge amount of knowledge. I am enjoying all your UPS videos very much. Cheers!!
i also had made a 5v ups for my adrunio clock so it would work when mains was off, it gave good back up of 1 day, charger 5v was connected through NC of the relay & o/p of boost conv was from NO, every thing was fine but when the battery was about to die it kinda gave a huge v/g spike which damaged my adrunio i/p unregV pin, now it powers on through 5v pin only, this happened twice with another adrunio also, now i'm thinking boosting the v/g to 7V & adding a linear regulator like 7805 for confirmed safety.
@@Sorin_DIY i used that 6 pin smd b6280t based module, also have a xl6009 also, but now scared anyone could damage sensitive loads, atleast we can put a 5v zener or linear regulator for guaranteed 5v o/p.
most powerbanks will not work connected to the charger and to the load in the same time. and if it does work, the battery will be continuously charged and discharged, in time it will get damaged.
Thanks. That would require 2 converters to step up and then to step down the voltage. it will have a low efficiency. it will work if you use a separate charger with a higher voltage.
Or Just use a IP5306 5V2A module with a pair of 4700uF 10V capacitors on the output and use it to charge the battery pack while passing thru current to load - at the same time having uninterrupted 5v
Hi. I don't take other projects. But I can help you build it. you can join my Patreon page and we can talk on the Patreon chat if you have questions about the project.
de ce nu il faci cu dubla conversie? asa poti avea fluctuatie la intrare si poti regla si iesirea, de exemplu 12V pentru un router. alimentezi un buck converter care incarca acumulatorii si din acumulatori folosesti un boost pt cat ai nevoie pe iesire. sau doua buck converter in cascada daca folosesti acumulatori inseriati.
am vrut ca acest UPS sa se alimenteze la 5V, sa fie simplu de conectat la orice dispozitiv. daca folosesti 2 sau mai multe convertoare, sunt pierderi mai mari, in total o sa foloseasca mai mult curent, se incinge mai mult. daca ridici tensiunea prea mult de la 5V, o sa scada mult curentul, iar eu am vrut ca acest UPS sa scoata 2.5A, sau chiar mai mult. voi face un alt UPS mai mare, care va folosi convertoare coboratoare de tensiunea, va avea mai multe functii. am cumparat deja si celule LifePO4 pentru el, dar mai dureaza pana e gata.
What I REALLY like about your videos is: the fact that you do the math, show the math and explain the circuit analysis. It is very important, don't ever skip this step.
Hooray！ We are one part of your project! Good job as always 👍
For those who are interested in increasing efficiency while increasing supported voltages(5-9V), you could change the TP4056 for a TP5100.
Thanks for the info; so, this only about efficiency and support for higher voltage, isn't it? And the current output didn't affected, still at 2.5A max, yes? 🤔
I'm just curious; currently I need UPS for some of my Mikrotik (1 UPS each), and I prefer DIY UPS. But those Mikrotik demand 3A.. 🥲
@@fatoniwahyuutama6591 That is correct. It's mostly about higher efficiency and higher voltage support (working with a 2S battery pack instead of 1S has its advantages).
I should look for higher current alternatives that have the same feature set.
I have just finished UPS 5V 10A. What you need to do is: 2 batteries in series and then 2-3 pairs like this in parallel. You will end up with 8V. And then instead of step up converter, use buck converter - they are much more efficient. My UPS on 2 batteries only can deliver 10A with 5.2V at the output for few good minutes while my servers will have enough time to shut down.
This version of your model is becoming bigger and better and i like it, Ups for a raspberry pi NAS, but for reliability lets change the relays for something else (solid state relay ) to avoid mechanical wear failures, with the previous 12v and this 5v UPS network and computer will not notice that there is a power outage anymore.
Thank you Professor Sorin, This video was my first attendance of your DIY classes.
I am sure all of your DIY classes are of similar high caliber: to the point w/ no B.S., just occasional comedy relief by 'cat'. I have now matriculated to be a full time student for your lectures. Bravo!
Impressive as always, especially with all that extra help you have been getting. Tracking the voltage drop through the circuit is a good sanity check on where efficiency is being lost although the downside in modifying bought-in modules is needing to remake them each time ... but such is life.
Great project, and I’m looking forwards to a Christmas special featuring your assistant’s contributions over they year 👍😀🎁
Hey man I have been watching your videos due to two years and i have no words to explain that how you cover the video in deep detail excellent job bro👏👏
Good thing you have the led to tell u when the power is out.🤣
I would use mosfets instead of a relay to implement load sharing
This looks really good! Nice job! I would really like to see you redo you 12volt UPS with this quality. I would really like to see what you come with. Again job and keep it up!!!
I did something similar but with a smaller footprint and instead of relays with beefy capacitors, I based it all on IC dedicated to such use - TPS2115
How come I've only just found your channel. This is great!
great job as always....maybe in the next build, you can use an IC that can fast charge the 6 cell pack in about 4-6 hrs instead
IP5328P can be a start point for your next video research. thanks for the great video once again.
Bro we need 12v ups circuit like this bro we crying since 2020 bro
Thank you Sorin, very interesting project.
LMAO "but you're a grown ass man, don't let it get that low" I love your videos! Nice project. I wish us here in the USA had a place to get PCBs made and shipped as cheaply as you all do. I went to try one of those places and the shipping was outrageous.
The N64 goldeneye reference was awesome.
Nice project as usual. I love that cat. I have asuggestion for a project. Can you make a compact car booster pack project, maybe? Great channel.
Good job sir. Edit Thank you for giving me attention ☺️
Good video! There's a lot involved in making good power supplies.
"I can feel my nose hair turning whiter." 😂
You can try with solid state relay next time so the relay switching time can be reduce
Excellent and awesome video ! Really cool stuff ! Well done !
nice one. Keep it up. This diy UPS is exactly what i needed. Thank you
During the demonstration, you connected the USB connector to the power supply with thin wires, of course you will have noticeable losses. And USB cables come in different qualities, you can just use a high-quality long wire and it will transfer current at least up to 3A calmly.
the USB port wires from the test are very short and they are from a PC PSU, so they can carry a few amps with no problem. they are thicker than any USB cable, so that's not where the power loses are. you can see that there is a big voltage drop difference between the USB cables, even with a low 1A current, using the same wires on the PSU/USB port. the biggest problem is the microUSB connectors, they get hot with more than 2A, because they have a higher contact resistance than the USB type C connectors. the length of USB cables is also important, if 2 cables have the same quality and one is 2 times longer than the other, it will have 2 times the resistance.
I love your assistant
Nice project
exactly what I'm looking for
Just want you to know that - YOU ARE VERY GOOD... KEEP GOING.... ❤️💓💕
There are better charger ICs which can pass through power while charging the batteries ... see for example MCP73871 and see Microchip's AN1149 application note. I don't like that big diode, there's better solutions or at the very least a DPAK or TO-220 version that can be put on a heatsink. I would have liked to see a couple footprints for capacitors, so one could put a couple 2200-3300uF capacitors instead of 4700uF capacitors which are less common - the lower values could even be harvested from older hardware like broken ATX power supplies.
You could have put a barrel jack connector to accept 7.5v .. 12v wallwart adapter, put a dc-dc converter to bring it down to 5v and higher current, give 1A of current to the charger and the rest could be passed through to the boost regulator to output 5v.
Great video as always, keep it up
that single led will help a lot than the shotckey diod😁
Hi, what about a video showing your tools/utilities? Sure people wanna know the stuff you use and where to buy.
wow man, thanks for the video now I can DIY ups at home!
I'm watching your videos and you do a great job, maybe in the future you'll try 3D printing for your cases, so that you'll have genuine good looking custom projects.
Could you build one with a 12v battery bank (and BMS of course), and step down dc-dc converters, this way if there is power loss, there is no delay time between "charging" and power supplied...I would also bet there would be longer run time as more efficient dc-dc converters would more efficiently convert the 12vdc to 5vdc
+1, only hic, 12V will required some BMS and keeping the batts balanced and I guess a bit bigger. But a very good option!
I did the same for a portable variable power supply, 12V to variable Voltage. Instead to increase from 5V to around 12V and more. 4.2V to 5V is fine, but forget about 4.2V to 12V, to much lost.
Yes, I plan to make a bigger UPS with higher voltage outputs, I already bought LiFePO4 cells. But it will take some time.
A thermal view of the final product would've been nice.
Bravoo....👏👏👏👏 Sorin devii din ce în ce mai profi cu fiecare postare. Proiecte cu acumulatori lifepo4 pe când?
Thanks. Am cumparat deja celule LiFePO4 pentru un UPS cu tensiune de iesire mai mare, dar o sa mai dureze ceva pana il termin.
Holy crap I have that same soldering iron on table where cat plays with components. Never seen anyone else with this iron lol.
Also...awesome Friday the 13th shirt
My girlfriend will be jealous
Excellent video and very funny cat! 😄👍
I love your jokes man 😂😂 Love you Sorin From India
Overall conceptul si executia sunt bune, se pot optimiza multe aspecte. Fun fact, NCR18650A suporta 1.4A curent de incarcare standard, NCR18650 1.9A standard, NCR18650B 1.6A standard, etc.; timpul indelungat cu un curent mic de incarcare nu prelungesc viata celulelor, este doar un mit pt. Li-Ion/Li-Po/LiFePO4 , este recomandat trickle charging doar pentru baterii cu altfel de chimie cum ar fi Ni-Mh si derivate, plumb acid sau alte baterii cu o compozitie chimica care necesita conditii specifice de incarcare. Problema cu montajul tau sunt pierderile enormede trebuia sa ai pierderide maxim 0.2V la portul USB de iesire, asta se rezolva prin calcule destul de lungi alegeri de componente cu low voltage drop si o tensiune mai mare a bateriei desigur si celule cu un curent ma mare de descarcare minim 10A.
Voltage drop doesnt change with port. Just use short cable.
Super tare și foarte educational.
Good DIY, but for 5V why not just use a powerbank instead? What would be great tho if it could output also 9V and 12V, to power routers, etc.
UPS have different function than powerbank.
His previous videos have that different output voltages.
This one ua-cam.com/video/dcIL6Z_msD4/v-deo.html
if you use a powerbank as a UPS, the battery will be charged and discharged continuously. most powerbanks will not work this way and even if it does work, it will damage the battery. for a 9V or a 12V UPS you need a bigger battery pack with a higher voltage.
Sorine, m-am indragostit de canalu tau. Te rog frumos sa mai scoti clipuri, am invatat multe de la tine. Si eu cochetez cu baterii si mai inlocuiesc celule pe acumulatori de masini de gaurit, desi probabil detin 5% din cunostintele tale. Sper sa vad cat de curand o notificare de la tine :D La multi ani!
Why didn't you try a short microUSB cable?!
Hello sir, i have MOSFET UTC UT100n03l and SW3205B from UPS. How make simple fish stuner?. Tank you.
Very nice project. You're the best 💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
great video man
Isn't the ferrite on cables there for helping longer cables? Or is that just for noise reduction. (I'm a newb here so go easy)
the ferrite on the cables is only for noise filtering.
Nice design, if I suggest for a new project can you make a 12v ups powered by a car power outlet. I have a 4g router and it would be cool to have it as a mobile hotspot but on my car, it cuts the power when you start the engine and have to wait for a couple of minutes to initialize...
I don't think you need a UPS. when you start the engine, the battery voltage drops for a second, or the car disconnects all the loads, including the car outlet, so all the power goes to the engine. you can try to add a schottky, like 10SQ045, after the car outlet, then a big capacitor 10000uF 25V, or maybe even 2 in parallel, then the wires go to the router. this should be enough to keep the voltage stable at the input of the router, until the engine starts.
I see, I'll check if the outlet drops or cuts the voltage. I was also thinking the battery part because the car outlet goes to ~14.7V and might be a bit too much for the router. If I could stabilize the voltage at 12V it would be good although the Li-on batteries would get stressed. Maybe I'll use a buck converter and package everything in a cable or a little box with input/output.
I'm not sure if this idea is video worthy but when I get the chance I'll try it out...
I'm here looking to solve a similar problem with a mini UPS. In my case I have a 110 AC plug in the car that I could use to power the UPS, or I could use the 12v outlet. I want to use the Netgear Nighthawk M6 Pro 5g/4g hotspot device in "AC Mode" (bypasses internal battery and turns off its own wifi) as a modem connected by short ethernet cable to the GL.iNet Beryl AX for use as a the wifi router. I also want the UPS to power a Chromecast with Google TV device connected to the car's HDMI input for rear seat entertainment. All 3 devices take 5v dc power. The AC outlet in my vehicle turns off whenever the car turns off. I would like the UPS to keep all 3 devices powered on for at least 10-15 minutes after I turn off the car, so if my kids are watching something and I need to stop for gas or a bathroom break we don't have to wait for everything to boot back up and then restart the program when the car turns back on.
Brilliant!
Good Work
GoodJob My FRIENDS
a hero
Love from Bangladesh 🇧🇩
Hi, I am Sorin, this is my new project.
It's a very good project, why are you Sorin? 😁
I wish channels would respond....but I'll try. Could this be used to power cameras from phones or laptops? I want to harvest all the camera modules from the 15 broken phones and laptops I have to make a security system. The issue is providing the power and data lines. I could harvest the adapters from the boards and hook them up on something like this.
you can power the cameras with this UPS, but all the cameras need to work with the same voltage and you need to calculate the current consumption.
Hi, I'm just beginner. I've never used ceramic resistor before. I have only 2 pieces of 5w0.5j. Can I use them for adjusting the current of converter?
yes.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you for replying. I went shopping for components today but I couldn't find 10sq045. I got 20sq045 instead. Is it ok?
Hello. Can this UPS run a wifi modem and for how long?
As you can clearly hear this guy has an accent, you can never trust an guy with an accent! - Electroboom
great video! when power supply is interrupted, you said there is a short delay before switching to battery mode, is it possible to use a capacitor instead of battery + FR607 diode?
Thanks. Capacitors are not enough, I tried that in my previous 5V UPS project.
That's what I guessed! So if you use battery + FR607 diode as backup power source, I don't understand why you need a relay except to bypass the FR607's voltage drop. But since there is a step up at the end, it should not be a voltage issue. Is it to reduce the overall current drawn? Or something I misunderstand?
How does the boost converter behave when batteries are low? (tp4056 cuts off at 2v-2.5v?)
Apparently some boost converter will output nasty spikes over the set output when input voltage drops
TP4056 is just an battery charger IC.
@@richardlighthouse5328 It's also battery protection, which cuts off very low 2v-2.5v. My question is how the chosen boost module behaves when the input voltage drops to those levels (when AC power doesn't return for extended period).
Some boost modules have strange output behaviour with very low 1s input
@@Not_Sure-i6o Wrong. TP4056 modules have separate low voltage protection IC that triggers around 2.4V which IMO is very low for Li-Ion battery. The boost converter is from China, so there are no data given on it's performance. If boost converter has strange output then you're probably running outside of it's parameters. If you use that boost converter with
@@richardlighthouse5328 Right, I was referring to the cutoff on those "TP4056 module" not the tp4056 IC itself.
I'm not asking if boost module will behave correctly down to 0v, just down to the what we both agree is absurdly low cutoff of those "tp4056 module"
I know what you are talking about. For that boost converter, you need to make some modification to prevent that spike. It's very cheap and simple modification. I'll try to find that video if you are interested.
Can you try to do an emergency light in a similar way?
yes
Super cap on the output to supply some juice in the switchover and give better handling of any surges?
when the super capacitor is charged, it will work. but it's difficult to charge the super cap from 0V. it will take a lot of time, the output voltage will drop, or the step up converter will shut down, exactly how it happened in my older 5V UPS with 3 capacitors on the output. it takes several attempts to turn on the UPS on battery.
Yeah, I thought that might be the case, what about a very small bms protected "freewheeling lipo cell" across the output?
Zero seconds time delay switching relay for capacitor valve please???
Salut,analizând schema ta,cred că se poate renunța la dioda D3(10SQ045).În felul ăsta,tensiunea de 5 volți de la încărcător intră direct în booster prin contactul 2-5 al releului.Din câte am observat la boostere,tensiunea de intrare trebuie să fie cuprinsă între o valoare minimă,cam 0,9 volți,și maxim tensiunea de ieșire reglată.Cu alte cuvinte,când este prezentă tensiunea din încărcător,în booster intră 5 volți și ies 5 volți.
Salut. in majoritatea cazurilor o sa mearga. dar sunt si unele incarcatoare USB care au 5.2V sau chiar 5.3V, iar unele convertoare nu functioneaza cum trebuie, daca tensiunea de intrare e mai mare decat tensiunea ceruta la iesire. nu am incercat convertorul acesta sa vad cum se comporta. dar cu un incarcator bun de 5V sau 5.1V (din care o sa mai fie mici pierderi de tensiune) si 5.1V sau chiar 5.15V la iesire ar trebui sa functioneze stabil. eu am pus dioda sa acopar toate variantele si sa fiu sigur ca functioneaza stabil, de ex poate cineva vrea fix 5V la iesire. dar da, cu un incarcator bun se poate elimina dioda si sa fie reglat convertorul sa lucreze stabil.
05:33 Is the importance of voltage drop difference of D4 and D3 relevant even when you are using a relay? also I would like to know the purpose of D1 and D2.
Yes, the voltage difference is important, because when the mains power is present and the relay is powered, the pin 2 of the relay is connected with the pin 5 and both diodes (charger and battery) will deliver current to the converter, so it's important that the charger voltage after the diode will be higher.
The D4 will deliver power from the battery to the converter at a lower voltage, only for a fraction of a second, when the mains is interrupted until the relay switches to battery power and bypasses D4.
D1 is a flyback diode, it's connected across the relay coil, to eliminate the high voltage spike created by the inductor or coil, when the power is switched off.
D2 decreases the voltage which powers the relay from 5.1V to about 4.5V, so the relay will switch faster when the mains (charger) is discontinued, because the voltage will drop from a lower value.
@@Sorin_DIY YES!!! I figured out my first part of the question while waiting for your reply. Thank you for dropping huge amount of knowledge. I am enjoying all your UPS videos very much. Cheers!!
thank you
i have a request..
powerbank based 12v router power supply with poweroff protection ..
07:20 Sorin ; Also known as Doomguy. 😊😸
Why didn't you just use Quick Charge powerbank module ?
because it will act differently. the relay will bypass the battery when main power is present.
i also had made a 5v ups for my adrunio clock so it would work when mains was off, it gave good back up of 1 day, charger 5v was connected through NC of the relay & o/p of boost conv was from NO, every thing was fine but when the battery was about to die it kinda gave a huge v/g spike which damaged my adrunio i/p unregV pin, now it powers on through 5v pin only, this happened twice with another adrunio also, now i'm thinking boosting the v/g to 7V & adding a linear regulator like 7805 for confirmed safety.
Hi. what kind of boost converter did you use in your UPS?
@@Sorin_DIY i used that 6 pin smd b6280t
based module, also have a xl6009 also, but now scared anyone could damage sensitive loads, atleast we can put a 5v zener or linear regulator for guaranteed 5v o/p.
hi , what is the difference between this project and using a power bank connected to a charger continuously
most powerbanks will not work connected to the charger and to the load in the same time. and if it does work, the battery will be continuously charged and discharged, in time it will get damaged.
@@Sorin_DIY ok! Tanks
Nice work wouldn't you be better increasing the battery voltage say 8.4v higher voltage lower amps
Thanks. That would require 2 converters to step up and then to step down the voltage. it will have a low efficiency. it will work if you use a separate charger with a higher voltage.
Have you ever made a DC UPS with 5V, 12V, 19V and 24V outputs and a 110/220V 60Hz Bivolt input?
Not yet, but I plan to make one.
@Sorin_DIY also adds some telemetry functionality is a good idea.
Or Just use a IP5306 5V2A module with a pair of 4700uF 10V capacitors on the output and use it to charge the battery pack while passing thru current to load - at the same time having uninterrupted 5v
Many USB battery packs can be charged while also supplying output, thus are 5v UPS. Maybe not 2.5A though
Most of them allow pass through but not all
Can u do a main ups what can power 240v
good for raspberry pi ups
What about mosfet switching instead of a diode?
the circuit will be a bit more complicated, but it will work.
How long is the switch time between main power and battery power ?
less than a second, but it's irrelevant. during the switching time the converter is still powered by the battery through the D4 diode.
Nice
Can you please share a link to your clipper at 1:43 thanks.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DnBgn1V
@@Sorin_DIY thanks so much
Does this charges the battery directly?
yes
Great !
10:25 doar eu vad acea flama de la celula langa care sudezi nichelul sau era de la sudura? 🤔🤣
is it possible to create 5V 6A ups?
yes. but it needs a more powerful converter.
Schematic link do not work now. Please share it again.
I tried the link and it works: i.imgur.com/jHVrDid.jpg
@@Sorin_DIY Sorry, I try it but can not open.
@@Sorin_DIY Can install tp4056 with cutoff module if 1 battery use only?
@@Sorin_DIY sorry for many question, Can I use P-channel mosfet instead of relay?
Bro how can I contact you?
Do you take projects to work on?
Hi. I don't take other projects. But I can help you build it. you can join my Patreon page and we can talk on the Patreon chat if you have questions about the project.
I`ll buy one so fast! De vanzare?
It's not for sale, sorry :)
de ce nu il faci cu dubla conversie? asa poti avea fluctuatie la intrare si poti regla si iesirea, de exemplu 12V pentru un router. alimentezi un buck converter care incarca acumulatorii si din acumulatori folosesti un boost pt cat ai nevoie pe iesire. sau doua buck converter in cascada daca folosesti acumulatori inseriati.
am vrut ca acest UPS sa se alimenteze la 5V, sa fie simplu de conectat la orice dispozitiv. daca folosesti 2 sau mai multe convertoare, sunt pierderi mai mari, in total o sa foloseasca mai mult curent, se incinge mai mult. daca ridici tensiunea prea mult de la 5V, o sa scada mult curentul, iar eu am vrut ca acest UPS sa scoata 2.5A, sau chiar mai mult. voi face un alt UPS mai mare, care va folosi convertoare coboratoare de tensiunea, va avea mai multe functii. am cumparat deja si celule LifePO4 pentru el, dar mai dureaza pana e gata.
Not the shit on PCBway but JLCPcb is way cheaper and same quality.
are you KomandarKarl? :")
Why compare a long Micro-USB cable and shorter USB-C, of course chances are that shorter USB-C will have less resistance so will a shorter Micro-USB.
micro USB connectors get hot with more than 2A, they have a higher contact resistance. USB type C connectors work with 3A.
3:22 hahaha
лайк асистенту)
make a ups with 5v, 9v, 12v output