You just saved me lots of time and money by making this video, I'm very grateful. My waterpump is making grinding sounds and I have been putting off replacing it as i though the belt has to come off... But it it doesn't!!!
You’re a legend brother thank you I’m going to do this myself and I appreciate you releasing this good information this is the only detailed video and I appreciate it a lot.
@@alexleto430 I’ll probably have some questions in the coming days I have all the parts just need to study your video over this week and on Saturday or Friday I’ll give it a go
@@alexleto430 Just finished it. You did extremely well! I had exactly this job done at a garage and it cost me in an arm and a leg, having watched your vid I'm sure I could've done it but I chickened out! Btw that tricky bolt on the upper timing cover I am able to reach with my small 1/4" socket set, the extension is skinnier and also using a swivel joint and it just squeezes in. When I checked my belt it had been eating itself and was only half it's normal size!
thanks, by the way. this was incredibly helpful. although it turns out that bolt at about 40:00 can actually be unscrewed. it has a little hex head at the end. i didnt realize until after i removed the powersteering pump bracket, which would not be necesary if you removed the bolt. but i noticed it was loose afterwards, then noticed the hex head, so unscrewed it with pliers and it made reassembly a lot easier. i still think the engineers did it deliberately to mess with mechanics though.
As far as I remember there are 3 belts. The 3-rib one goes on to the power steering pump, the other 2 with 4 ribs are for the alternator and AC compressor.
I don't understand how this engine locks up. I did a timing belt job on a 4 banger with DOHC before and it was pretty easy because you would just slide a locking tool in between the two camshaft sprockets to lock the engine during the entire operation, thus ensuring that timing wouldn't skip. This having that big sprocket (I assume for VVTi), I just don't see how the engine doesn't spin while working on it.
Yeah, I know what you mean. I was hesitant at first. But to be honest it's really hard to knock it out of place once you put all the timing marks in their correct spots. As long as you double check everything and don't move the main sprocket it's a relatively straightforward process
i take it the oil pump pulley timing doesnt matter? i bumped it with the belt off. the manual doesnt say anything about it, it says to put paint marks on crank pulley and cam pulley but doesnt mention oil pump pulley. so i assume im good to go.
thanks, i didnt bump that one though, the one next to it for the oil pump. i was pretty sure that was fine but upon googling i found people talking about their oil pump timing, but further googling showed some cars need their oil pump timed, not for the pump, but for the balance shaft or something. but my car didnt have that so i dont have to worry about it. you can free spin the oil pump all you want. everything is back together now, i just have to tighten the accesery belts and put the radiator back in.@@alexleto430
Hi, I'm wondering, because in 55:55 your camshaft gear has moved a little. Isn't it bad? I'm gonna do it myself soon and i dont wanna miss anything ;)) Also at 1:04:40 you first start the engine and it starts poorly. Is it always starting like this?
I moved it back to where it was supposed to be when I had to remove the guide roller to install the belt,. I double checked all the marks over and over again. But yeah if something moved it's not good. As for the start, it's got an old battery🤣
@@alexleto430 thanks for response, explained everything :) I'm gonna do some marks percisely and check them. Also, great tip with removing the roller. I'm just starting the work with replacing timing belt with your video and i hope it makes it a lot easier ;)))
for something like that i wouldnt worry about torque. i only worry about it when its a sealing surface like the water pump, as overtorqueing could cause a leak, so could under torqueing. or for something that could come loose, like the crank pulley bolt, or something that if it did come loose would destroy your engine. otherwise, just do it up tight, it probably doesnt need to be massively tight. i would say 5 ft-;p or 9 nm or so for most bolts is enough. (im not a mechanic though, do your own research. i am not smart).
I cant believe it runs smoothly the way you put on the timingbelt 😂..I think you should keep the roller pully side tight and the tensioner side loose
You just saved me lots of time and money by making this video, I'm very grateful. My waterpump is making grinding sounds and I have been putting off replacing it as i though the belt has to come off... But it it doesn't!!!
Glad it was useful
@@alexleto430 thanks for sharing!
If you get this done by a garage, would you happen to know how much labor they'll charge? (Just the timing belt)
@@rcast3763 I'd say in the UK around 200£. Could be cheaper or more expensive depending on the garage
@@alexleto430 thanks for the reply.
So that would be like 5 hrs labour?
@@rcast3763 I'd say if they've done it before more like 3-4. It's very straightforward.
You’re a legend brother thank you I’m going to do this myself and I appreciate you releasing this good information this is the only detailed video and I appreciate it a lot.
Thanks dude! Glad it can help someone else to tackle this job. It's not that difficult but it has its nuances. Good luck 🤞
@@alexleto430 I agree, I’m going to watch Thai video about 5 times lol maybe more just to make some bullet points and learn from the master himself 👍🏽
@@aksdan7783 hahaha. Hardly a master😅 But if you have any questions feel free to drop them in the comments
@@alexleto430 I’ll probably have some questions in the coming days I have all the parts just need to study your video over this week and on Saturday or Friday I’ll give it a go
Thanks m8 I haven't finished watching yet but this is just the video I've been after :)
I know it's a long one 😅
@@alexleto430 Just finished it. You did extremely well! I had exactly this job done at a garage and it cost me in an arm and a leg, having watched your vid I'm sure I could've done it but I chickened out! Btw that tricky bolt on the upper timing cover I am able to reach with my small 1/4" socket set, the extension is skinnier and also using a swivel joint and it just squeezes in. When I checked my belt it had been eating itself and was only half it's normal size!
thanks, by the way. this was incredibly helpful. although it turns out that bolt at about 40:00 can actually be unscrewed. it has a little hex head at the end.
i didnt realize until after i removed the powersteering pump bracket, which would not be necesary if you removed the bolt. but i noticed it was loose afterwards, then noticed the hex head, so unscrewed it with pliers and it made reassembly a lot easier.
i still think the engineers did it deliberately to mess with mechanics though.
Oh that's a useful bit of information, thanks. And I'm glad it was helpful 😄
Appreciate u so much for making this
Really good
40:00 seems deliberate. engineers really dont like mechanics.
thanks for the video, if you remove the idler pulley and reinstall would be much easier.
How much torque is required to tighten the hood bolts?
What was the first belt that was taken off?...
Thank you
It was the alternator belt
Hello, cheers for this guide full of detail. What belts do you need please? There are 3 rib and 4 rib belts for the auxiliaries...
As far as I remember there are 3 belts. The 3-rib one goes on to the power steering pump, the other 2 with 4 ribs are for the alternator and AC compressor.
@@alexleto430 Thank you.
I don't understand how this engine locks up.
I did a timing belt job on a 4 banger with DOHC before and it was pretty easy because you would just slide a locking tool in between the two camshaft sprockets to lock the engine during the entire operation, thus ensuring that timing wouldn't skip.
This having that big sprocket (I assume for VVTi), I just don't see how the engine doesn't spin while working on it.
Yeah, I know what you mean. I was hesitant at first. But to be honest it's really hard to knock it out of place once you put all the timing marks in their correct spots. As long as you double check everything and don't move the main sprocket it's a relatively straightforward process
How did you undo the crankshaft pulley main bolt?
I used one of the auxiliary belts to hold the crank pulley. Check the link in the description, there's a photo of how to loop it.
I bought mine without a timing belt I have been trying to fit a new one but every time I release the tensioner the crankshaft move off the mark..
Have you tried putting the belt on without the guide roller?
I will try that tomorrow... thanks
i take it the oil pump pulley timing doesnt matter? i bumped it with the belt off. the manual doesnt say anything about it, it says to put paint marks on crank pulley and cam pulley but doesnt mention oil pump pulley. so i assume im good to go.
mrbidouille.ch/images/articles/2020-05-06-is200-timing-belt/28-timing-marked-bottom.jpg this is how the bottom pulley should be timed
thanks, i didnt bump that one though, the one next to it for the oil pump. i was pretty sure that was fine but upon googling i found people talking about their oil pump timing, but further googling showed some cars need their oil pump timed, not for the pump, but for the balance shaft or something. but my car didnt have that so i dont have to worry about it. you can free spin the oil pump all you want. everything is back together now, i just have to tighten the accesery belts and put the radiator back in.@@alexleto430
Is it any washer behind the tensioner? Between the tensioner and block?
I didn't have anything
Can I get a link for the ignition coils
I got mine from eBay.
they are not hard to find. i replace mine as they fail. if it starts running on 5 cylinders, i pick up a new coil.
Hi, I'm wondering, because in 55:55 your camshaft gear has moved a little. Isn't it bad? I'm gonna do it myself soon and i dont wanna miss anything ;)) Also at 1:04:40 you first start the engine and it starts poorly. Is it always starting like this?
I moved it back to where it was supposed to be when I had to remove the guide roller to install the belt,. I double checked all the marks over and over again. But yeah if something moved it's not good. As for the start, it's got an old battery🤣
@@alexleto430 thanks for response, explained everything :) I'm gonna do some marks percisely and check them. Also, great tip with removing the roller. I'm just starting the work with replacing timing belt with your video and i hope it makes it a lot easier ;)))
Torque required to tighten the hood bolts ?
10 uga dugas
10 n.m ?
Sorry, it was a joke I don't know the exact numbers, mate. If it's the hood hinges just make sure it's tight. It won't go anywhere
for something like that i wouldnt worry about torque. i only worry about it when its a sealing surface like the water pump, as overtorqueing could cause a leak, so could under torqueing. or for something that could come loose, like the crank pulley bolt, or something that if it did come loose would destroy your engine.
otherwise, just do it up tight, it probably doesnt need to be massively tight. i would say 5 ft-;p or 9 nm or so for most bolts is enough. (im not a mechanic though, do your own research. i am not smart).
Don’t do it the way he’s doing Easyer one to do it
Stupied