Nintendo Gameboy Advance SP Repair (RB Shoulder Button, Dust on LCD, A & B Buttons)
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- Опубліковано 20 січ 2017
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A short video showing the repair and clean up of a Nintendo Gameboy Advance SP.
#nintendo #gameboy #advance #repair - Ігри
Thank you very much. My brother found my old Sp, and I can’t play wario land 4 without the shoulder buttons working. This is awesome. The games being old, make me feel ancient.
Wow, awesome video. I was looking into how to repair those buttons on an SP. There is no other video out there that shows how to repair the buttons. Great job keep it up :)
This is the first video I found of someone removing these WITHOUT a hot air station, makes me feel better about my chances trying to repair my girlfriend's SP. Thanks for that.
Ah ! The good old GBSP.. Its good to see that in the 3DS comparatively they corrected their mistakes with the directions pads and buttons by not having soldered versions they were replaced with a single sticker containing the metal contact pads.
The screen dust technique i use is similar to yours using the vacuum on one side and lightly brushing the screen with the microfibre, if you ever do a 3ds screen replacement the black glue you have to remove from the old broken screen and replace around the new screen ( if any of that gets on the lcd its horrible to remove * smudges glue).
Great fix, its always a pleasure to see an old console come back to life.
If you've got a big enough countertop in your bathroom, you can create something like a clean room environment by running the shower for a few minutes. The humidity will push the free-floating dust and hair to the floor, and you can do your work in peace.
That, is a GENIUS idea!!!!! =D
18:54 thanks for the video. It's best to tip the soldering iron with wetted solder because that creates a "heat bridge". It's taught in electronic repair schools, soldering is a trained/learned skill. Yes a heat gun designed for lifting ICs (multi-pronged chips) would work well for removal only. Probably a 370C setting would be a good start. In addition, a good pre-wet with fresh solder on all 4 landings along with flux would help. Then for install little to no flux and a fine solder tip. Careful cleaning these membrane tactile switches, AL/solvent can destroy them.
Great work as always ;)
Thanks! =D
Awesome restoration =D
I wish I had the intelligence of GadgetUK. He's not only troubleshooting video game consoles, but also assisting James with his NGPC and Atari Jaguar SD project.
Well done kind sir. I always said, The University of Bath and/or Chester could use you for sure! 8^)
Anthony..
Great video. My GBA needs an upgrade too!
Thanks - I might swap the screen out later for an AGS-101 screen I think.
When you do encounter easily-damaged screw covers you can sometimes use a dab of hot glue to lift them without marring. Works for me!
That's a great idea!!! =D I might try that at some point!
GadgetUK164 In a pinch, I cut a drinking straw at an angle and then round the pointy end to make a curved spudger that can reach around a wide, round, area without levering on a small spot. This has worked for me in the past as well.
Used the drinking straw method on another GBA SP a couple days ago and it worked great!
thank you!
Watching this was extremely satisfying. Might I ask; Where do you get the replacement tactile switches for the shoulder buttons? Mine just don't work the way they used to. Thanks for the video!
Thanks =D You can find them on eBay (a bit over priced):- www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgba+SP+shoulder+buttons.TRS0&_nkw=gba+SP+shoulder+buttons&_sacat=0
But you can use any other 6mm x 6mm switch, like these:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-B3F-3122-Microswitch-1-position-SPST-NO-0-05A-24VDC-THT-1-47N-6x6mm-/192038070424?hash=item2cb65c6898:g:kbYAAOSw44BYOh0~
The quality will dictate how long they last. I've used cheap tactile switches in the XBOX One controller before now and they just don't last. That pack of 10 above might be better quality.
GadgetUK164 Thanks!
The problem with the buttons is that they get dirty from the inside of the round metal lid that make contact, a cheap fix for this as I did on my own GBA SP: I removed the round lid (with an exacto knife) and cleaned both the metal lid and the board contact where the lid is pressed, then I put in place with some tape (I think you can solder the lid to the board, it has on left & rigth sides a little metal piece where its "glued" to the board, but if you use tape only it will work just fine)
R u talking about the copper colored lid after removing the trackpads?
@@itsAstarte.e well in my case is like aluminum.. but yeah just lift the metalic round lid, theres no need to de-solder the entire module like in this video
I'm trying to figure out how to fix mine. Trying to bring back to life my old sp from 2004. Bought a bunch of modded parts like IPS screen and what not. After putting everything together I noticed my b doesn't work. I might have destroyed it or something while cleaning the PCB with isopropyl. I might try your solution. I just don't know how to put the lid back in...
@@raikozy35 put the lid back using transparent tape, so you can see the exact location of the lid
@@carlosantoniolealmarroquin3918 thanks for the quick reply, this weekend had been depressing since I was so exited to play my sp again with this new screen and battery. When you said clean the board where the lid makes a contact with, do you mean underneath the metal lid?
Thanks GadgetUK164 for the interesting videos as always. Is there a screen mod kit so you can change a GBA SP AGS-001 to back lit as in the AGS-101 version?
Yes, I believe you can swap the screen with an AGS-101 screen, but I think (if memory serves) it needs a flat flex adapator - because the ribbons are slightly different. Having said that, that might only be if you are trying to fit the AGS-101 into the original GBA, so maybe on the SP they have identical flex ribbon? Check before you buy!
Great stuff. That was a hard one. Flex between cases are scary. I think I have the same switches you got. Not sure. Was going to use them with the Videopac, but the videopac would need some milling on the .. .actuator(?) to work.. The thingy between the stick and the buttons..
I did wonder where else those switches might be useful - I think the replacement 'dome part' might fix the Neo Geo CD stick domes. I will investigate tomorrow! =D The videopac must have very low profile switches =O
GadgetUK164 Yes. The videopac has membrane contacts.
Maybe could also use them for Atari joy stick they use those type
Where can I find a good vid/tutorial on how to desolder and solder the L and R shoulder buttons in a GBA SP?
Hi i'm not sure this is what you wanted to know, but i found a non solder option to repair them. With a thin knife or screwdriver, i raised the metal shielding enough to take out the black button and metal disk that presses and replaced them with ones taken from spare tactile switches, and bent the metal back in position. Now i the sp also has clicky buttons.
@@restlessheroes did u ordered a new switch and removed some parts to replace without soldering?
@@restlessheroes Were you able to pry up the metal shielding right away, or did you have to remove those four small black rivets on top of the switch first?
@@gerudodragon i think i used the small knife to push the metal shielding, carefully and slowly until it pushed itself out of the 4 black pegs,
say i pulled the rubber out of the trigger switch... how could i get it back in?
You can put it back in to problem just by tugging it in , i would suggest putting a little bit of %99 alcohol and pressing it down with a tweezer, let it dry and then put it back
How do you clean up the little holes from the top R and L buttons. Every time I remove the solder it instantly dries in the hole
Desolder braid and flux!
Hey man. I’m having the exact same problem, with a, b and the d-pad. I’m having no good success in finding the replacement parts you used here. Any good advice on where to look, and what they’re commonly called?
This is the guy that WAS selling them, he one "reclaimed" for sale at the moment, but it might be worth asking him when he's getting more new stock in - or where he got his (I am guessing AliExpress) - you might need to look for tactile switches and see what is a similar size. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tactile-Membrane-Button-replacement-Original-Nintendo-GBA-SP-Game-Boy-Advance-SP/142998798452?hash=item214b648074:g:jUoAAOSwTuJYpEWC
17:41 Does anybody have a link of where to get these? I keep searching for button replacements, which just gets me the plastic pieces. I need some of these to repair my SP. Any help would be appreciated
Any luck, video guy liked it but didnt say shit
just search "SMD Tact Switch 4*4*0.8", i believe thats the one you need
@@geotron9780 man thank you so much, do u know if i can find the bigger one?
Hello, I have replaced the R trigger for a new one and still it's not working
Also I have cleaned all the motherboard with alcohol and a toothbrush and still same issue, idk what else to do
do you have any advise to fix it??
Test the switch on continuity test to make sure the multimeter beeps when you press the button. Also then follow the traces on continuity test and make sure they reach the main IC that handles inputs. If the button works and it connects between ground and the main IC correctly, it will be that IC...
i start to understand why they slap ags101 screen on v1 gba.
the original is just a lot easier to fix and a lot more solid.
and is just more comfortable.
5:42 removing the motherboard but be careful fo the screen connection wire
6:38 clean up with IPA?
6:53 reflow components
20:37 flox? Is this the flow he kept talking about?
IPA is Isopropanol Alcohol, at 20:37 - flux! That's what you can use to reflow solder points.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods thanks, May I know what is the reason you use the flux here?
Flux allows the solder to reflow nicely - you can nice smooth round edges etc, and it joins to the PCB better. Generally it just looks tidier when you clean up afterwards.
I was wondering where you got the replacement switch for the B button ?
Either eBay or AliExpress!
my R button in my SP is very inconsistent, clicky but sometimes it doesn't fire properly. Any recommendations like is dust a common thing to get into there
Try and get contact cleaner into it and press it a dozen or so times to see if that helps - maybe deoxit. If that doesn't work, I suspect you will need to replace it.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods soaked it in isopropyl alcohol and now it works perfectly, thank you for the video and response!!
@@Aaron_Bleu did you removed the switch from the mother? How did you soaked it? I have a sometimes unresponsive R bumper :(
Does the scene stick back on it’s own or do you need something to stick it back with? Thanks
Yes, it's still mega sticky once you've pealed it off. It sticks straight back on no problem.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods thanks mate, I’m attempting this tomorrow so wish me luck!
Good luck! Take your time!!!
Hey guys just wondering where to get the replacement button switches for a and button for the motherboard??
eBay is your best bet. I posted a few links throughout the comments here to similar questions.
My gba sp won't start anymore after i change my B button, like in the video. It actually turn on once, then suddenly off before entering the game. Now the indicator just blink red in a milisecond. Charging and battery is still works. Did i break something?
Could be a bad connection somewhere, or maybe you bridged a connection with solder somewhere by mistake. If you ever get problems like this after doing a repair, take it back to pieces and retrace your steps - see if you can see any mistake or bad connection. Sometimes just a disconnected ribbon will cause this sort of problem.
Could have swore you didn’t change the right shoulder button 😅. I opened my SP up for a clean for the first time ever (had it since release) and now my right shoulder button isn’t working either. The click is a different note to the left one. I reopened it up, used IPA in there and book working again. Next day, it’s now not working. I didn’t do anything to it mechanically and the solder in it is fine. What could have happened and could I fix it without replacing it? I want to keep it all genuine.
The contacts are probably dirty or corroded on it! I would just replace the switch entirely!
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods I just took an order of replacement shoulder buttons so I’ll get to that in this social isolation 😆
......... G' Day Mate, Well done, buy some pins, (the ones with the round plastic coloured ball heads) I just thought they would be easier to get under the bungs and tactile switches . P.S. ....... And can you "giggle " like Ms mad Lemon.
Thanks! Yes, pins are a good idea!!! LOL @ "giggle like Ms Mad Lemon" - I am too stressed with life to giggle lol, even more stressed when working on a GBA SP lol.
Hi. Do you know where I can buy an "A" button (I mean the switch that has to be soldered)?
The only place I know of is eBay - but I think the seller is using a standard tactile switch. I think i've seen the same switches in a SMD microswitch kit (not 100% sure) - search on eBay. Something like this *might* work - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SMD-GOLD-MICROSWITCH-x10pcs-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-4x4x1-5mm-Tact-Switch-DIY/113256912037?hash=item1a5ea354a5:g:8XEAAOSwWzVboNwT
@@GadgetUK164
Thanks for you response. From that clue I started searching and I think that the size may be 5x5x0.8mm, but I am not sure about the height ... maybe is taller ...
@@Xoan_Cosmed will a 5x5x1.5mm work?
@@bsit-1cservidadmarktimothy276 I don't know. I bought some 5,2x5,2x0,8 buttons to try, but I'm still waiting for them to arrive ...
this is the correct button
www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/ALPS/SKRRAAE010?qs=%2Fha2pyFaduiVFco7SKG8JAcGMm6lcnu2YUfGI9AjgEM%3D
Hello,
I noticed you switched the C75 capacitor. What is the value of the capacitor? Thank you!
Because mine was shattered in two, I just took a gamble and went with a 100nF capacitor that was small enough physically to fit. It worked fine!
Thank you! I have a problem where the gameboy wont charge batteries, i have already tried looking for dead fuses but all off they are good and i have current coming from the port and also ive been trying to fix it for a while but no clue what is wrong, and yes i have already changed the charger and battery and tested them on other gba sp
Any idea of the problem?
The best advice I can give is to compare to a working board - measure around on resistance mode on a multimeter, checking each component and compare readings to the other unit. You might have a damaged trace somewhere on the charge circuit, or a faulty transistor, resistor or diode etc.
Hello!
I discovered the problem: The track is interrupted from fuse F2 to diode D1 (see figure).
Test with the multimeter to confirm if the track is broken. After confirmation of interrupted track, the path can be done with a small piece of 30AWG wire (0.25mm) or include in the welded folder holes (then use the soldering iron to interconnect the parts). ua-cam.com/video/WOXPCXNRF5A/v-deo.html
for some reason when i click a on my gameboy it clicks rb and idk what to do any suggestions on what could be wrong?
It could be a damaged trace somewhere on the board. If one of the buttons is lacking a pull up resistor it may register as another button being pressed. It could also be a fault on the IC that reads controller inputs.
If I refurbishe my gba sp are the buttons going to stop making lot clicking noices when I use it
No, the only thing that will stop them making clicking noises is if they wear and become in need of replacement.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods thx and I refurbished it yesterday to the nes one
Is it possible to replace one of the tac buttons with a working one off another mobo? My left button on the d pad does not register every time and i have another mobo i can use the part off.
lol nvm saw the rest of the video, and got the buttons off ebay
Yes - you probably can, but I imagine it being very hard to remove the doner button. If you bend them they can stop working. The best way to remove one would perhaps be to put kapton tape over the button itself, but leave the 4 solder points uncovered. And then use hot air to remove the old button.
You can actually just remove the metal plate sheet from the button, reflex them, and put back in place with some tape, i've done that to a couple gbas. The dust on the screen is always a pain in the ass, excelent job there ;)
That's good to know! I did wonder about cleaning up and re-using the switches I've taken off. I might have a tinker with them later. =D
I'm having a problem where my SP can't boot gameboy or gameboy color games, it boots the advance games fine, also the gb or Gbc games load when I press start or select they crash, any fixes
You could inspect the board for any signs of corrosion, and also make sure the cart contacts are very clean. If that doesn't fix it, you could have a faulty chip, possibly RAM or the main ASIC.
Could also me a missing cap (perhaps fallen off from when it was dropped or something). So look around for any damage on the board, and in particular anything that looks like it might have falled off some solder pads.
i put a pikachu case on one of these but the backlight stopped working :/
With a lot of effort you can seperate the front diffuser and lighting section from the screen and replace the LED. It's not easy though! Probably easier to swap the LCD assembly. At some point I might get an AGS-101 screen for this system, and maybe a new case.
When do you replace the RB shoulder button?
I cannot remember if I showed the process in the video or not. Basically its a 6mm x 6mm tactile switch, just a case of desoldering the 2 connections and fitting a replacement.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods in terms of desoldering, how much would it cost for the kit you use? I’ve never de soldered before
You could buy a 15W cheap soldering iron for as little as £15 to £20 ($30 ish). A manual desolder pump will cost £3 or $5 ish. You just need some 40/60 leaded solder (containing flux), maybe a small tube of flux too, and your switch. But moving forward you could then repair other things using those things.
I have the first model and I replaced the lcd with a backlit one.
After a year the power switch had problems. Now it doesn't boots at all.
Might be worth measuring F1 and F2 (and any other F prefixed component on there that looks the same). Maybe the new screen draws slightly more power and at some point the fuse went? Also check the SMD electrolytics on there too!
When I replaced the screen in my PSP I had to open it up more than 5 times and clean it because there were dust particles trapped, it drives me mad when there's a bit of dust in there and its taunting you while your playing your game. Ahrrrrr.
I remember once I was asked if I could try and fix a SNES for someone and when I opened it up for repair (pico fuse was blown) it was full of pubes. errr!.
LOL at that particle taunting you - glad it's not just me that suffers from that =D And LMAO @ finding pubes in a SNES! Makes you wonder what the hell they were doing with the SNES! XD
I think the guy owned a pet dog; at least I hope he did, hate to think. NO, NO STOP. let's not go there. Ha-ha.
Could have been facial hair ,it also looks like pubic hair
Guy at work would trim his beard in the bathroom ,after he was done looked like someone had cut off their pubes in the sink Naasty
Had I not seen him trim ............ Well you get the picture
man i sprayed my buttons with wd40 vcontact cleaner and now they dont work ... i hope it works after it drys fully safe for pcbs ya right.
That's surprising really - since the underside of the switch is just metal... Maybe there's other contamination under your buttons.
@@GadgetUK164 i dont know they was working perfect before i decided to clean the entire board with it.. maybe they are wet still i dont know
Part number Japanese táctil surface switch smd is ALPS SKRRABE010
If any one is looking for replacements just Google SKRRAAE010