I just completed an IPS screen installation and a complete shell swap w/ buttons, using this video for assistance. Thanks for the video. I never soldered before but I tried it and it actually wasn't too difficult. I used a generous amount of flux and everything smoothly. Idk why but when you mentioned the part about soldering was "great fun" that gave me the confidence to do it. The toughest part I found was connecting/disconnect the ribbon cable. Theres just so little room. Besides that it was real smooth.
Thank you for that detailed feedback, it means a lot. Especially knowing that some of the "little things" in my guidance can make a difference. I hope you enjoyed it! Good work 😊
Thank you for a very well made video. You convinced me to finally pull the trigger and order a new screen and battery for my SP. I was on the fence for years about modding a GBA, but if I was gonna do it, it would be for the original GBA, as I didn't wanna cut up my beloved SP. The drop in screen plus the extra filter options really are what won me over. Plus, your presentation was engaging enough that I watched the entire thing even after my mind was made up. I'll definitely be back here when it's time to install. I only have 1 solder job under my belt so I'm excited to give this one a go and get better at it! Cheers!
The bright spots on the corner of the screen is actually caused by the display screws being too tight. When I installed this kit, I had spots on three corners of my screen and after slightly loosening the screws it completely fixed the issue entirely and now it's perfect. It's a bit annoying if you already put the rubber caps back on the screen but yeah, if you're buying this screen make sure to adjust the screws on the display before putting the rubber caps on.
Yeah I thought the same thing but as I said in the video it didn't make a difference in this case. I actually ended up removing it from the housing altogether and it still had the same issue when I connected it up and tested it.
Great video! I had never soldered before in my life and you inspired me to put this display in my gba sp. I can say that I followed these instructions, and the end result turned out great. New life has been breathed back into my gba! Thank you so much!
omg best video ever! I recently bought a refurbished gameboy advanced sp and the screen was so old/dim looking, Ive never upgraded or deconstructed anything before! but i bought a kit and watched this video and it only took me like 15min! thank you so much!
Thank you so much. I was so nervous because this was my first mod of a game console and I didn't want to mess it up. I followed your instructions step by step and it took me about an hour to do except I skipped the solder part.
Thank you so much for this video! One thing I’ll mention to anyone interested in doing this themselves is to not lose the square nut attached to the bottom panel. That’s important for keeping the battery cover secure
Absolutely important. Get it in the shell as soon as possible. Nothing worse than reaching the final stage of putting the battery cover on and realising you have to take it all apart again to put that nut in!
This was an excellent tutorial. It made the install and soldering 10x easier. I also appreciate the controls guide because I couldn't for the life of me figure them out
Thank you so much for this tutorial and the 3Dprinted tool, they were both lifesavers! I even did the soldering, despite my super shaky hands it did end up working out 👌 I did have a slight struggle with the power connection of the speaker, since the added wire was in the way of the contact points of the motherboard first time I tried to close the case.
Thanks so much for this video. I just modded my Gameboy with the IPS V2 HISPEEDIDO and wow the picture is incredible. It is just amazing with the colors, brightness.
Just did this mod myself with this exact kit & using this video as a guide. As mentioned, reconnecting the ribbon cable is a little fiddly & as a 'soldering virgin' I did not enjoy that part, but I did a clean job and it all functions correctly now! My screen is nice, no bright spots etc. I did the build inside an original SP shell, since it was in good condition and I felt it was worth preserving. The rubber caps disintegrated somewhat, so if you're planning on using an O.G. shell I suggest ordering a spare set of these. Many thanks Joe Bleeps, you're a ⭐
Thanks very much for the tutorial video, helped me out a lot. Worse bit for me was getting the hinges back in (I also did a case swap), was really worried I was going to break the new case. The soldering and ribbon cable seemed easier than the hinges by far! Thanks again for the clear step-by-step.
Fantastic step by step tutorial! Just received one of these today and found your video guide. Was a little nervous after clumsily trashing my front lit screen trying to remove a single speck of trapped dust. The screen quality is amazing and the whole process was very easy. Thanks from a new subscriber! 😊
Just installed this mod, including soldering the wire for the brightness control button - literally my first time soldering anything. My connections are much uglier than those shown in the video above, but the work, so woohoo! Thanks for the video walk through, it was a big help.
Have been waiting for something like this for awhile now. Can't wait to put this to the test into some original GBA SP shells :) thanks for the review Joe!
@@JoeBleeps Both screens arrived today. I have to agree with the color settings being not too impressive but the brightness is amazing. Love how it fits flush into the stock SP shells too! Have to say it looks much brighter and nicer than the 101 screen
@@JoeBleeps Only issue I have is with the light bleeding on the sides. Though it's not too noticeable on my one I hope in the future versions they will improve on this! But overall very happy with my purchase, thanks so much for your review Joe! Wouldn't have jumped at it if I didn't see your review!
Got it. I’m a total newb and it was pretty easy after I bought a Tri wing. My biggest problems were 1) little square nut came out and I had to find where it went, 2) that tape really was a pain to get back in, and 3 the clear plastic light cover came off and I had take it apart again to put it in. 😅 I didn’t even try to attempt the soldering. very helpful video!
Best video out there... would really love more comparison on the original ags-101 and the replacement screen side by side. In all these years there hasn't been this type of video
Good tip is to put battery door back on shell before closing up the unit. The little metal cube that the battery door screw locates in can be loose in the shell and will end up rattling around in side when you think you’re finished.
I've never had one come loose, however many times I have reassembled the whole thing and realised I forgot to put the metal nut in there in the first place!
Thank you for this video, as it gave me the knowledge and the confidence to perform this mod. It wasn't too difficult, even the soldering. I am also left-handed which made watching you extremely easy to follow. I didn't have any kapton tape, so I used electrical tape, but I will replace it soon. One minor issue I had was that the glass front of the screen was ever-so-slightly too wide for the frame of my original silver AGS-001 shell. I got it in place, but after I put the top half back together, the left and right side of the plastic frame of the screen was bulging out very slightly. I fixed this undoing the five screws around the screen, removing the back (along with the screen which it was taped to), and then slightly shaved down the four tabs on the left and right of the inside of the screen frame, until the screen went in without needing much pressure. All good now. The screen looks beautiful! Cheers from Canada!
the FRM, if like in the funnyplaying kits, is a function to correct the transparency effect that is made through flickering on some games, you can test it with Zelda Link's Awakening with the dog chain (the ball with teeth in the main town), also while cutting small grass. I would actually be interested to see the effect tested, if it does work, that + integers scaling and pixel modes would be all the features i want from a kit XD (well, actually i would also like a usefull color mode that color correct the games with blown up colors like golden sun)
That was satisfying to watch. I was always intimidated by IPS screen installations, so this might be just for me. Or maybe I should push myself more and finally start soldering things.
i travel a lot for work and i feel that the gba is the perfect travel system for quick flights. I totally need to do this and while i have it open replace some of the other smaller parts.
FRM is explained by Makho, old displays are slow and transparent is done by flashing white and black sprites which looks gray, new displays are fast which flicker during this transparent objects. It’s awesome feature by the downside it slows the response time in ms so in fighting games is apparent
Thx for good explained tutorial. I learned some things I needed to know that I couldn't with tutorials from others And I have printed your SP 3d hinge removal tool :)
1:Peeling off the protective film from screen before instal 2:Peeling off the self-adhesive on the back off the lens before instal 3:The way you looped the ribbon with round pencel 4:Dont scratch the back off the lens 5:The screen screws not to tight 6:Both solderpoints on ribbon are same
May need to snag one of these. Just fixed an old gba a friend gave me a while back and got a charger and battery upgrade for it already. Also grabbed an ez flash while they where on sale a month ago on ebay. All thats left is, customizing the shell, replacing hienges, screen upgrade, and possibly better audio. The little speaker didnt and old screens dont seem to age well. My phones 3x louder than the gba.
Awesome video! Was able to successfully replace my screen, thank you Joe. When I closed everything up and tried it the screen lit up, but was black. My heart sank, did I damage the ribbon cable? I opened it back up again and found that the locks on the ribbon were loose. When I popped one in, then the other, the other side would loosen. It took a few times to get them both down, but it worked in the end. The new display is gorgeous.
Not sure if someone has already responded to this, but, I saw on another display that FRM was used for managing the GB Advance games that use transparent images in games. Because of the IPS screen being more modern, the refresh rate can act a bit weird with the transparent images and make them flicker on the screen. So, by turning FRM on, it adjusts it so it does not flicker.
what is the difference between the 800mah battery you showed us, and the cheap 850mah blue battery that is available amazon or anywhere else? isnt the 850mah just better for cheaper?
It would be if the quality of the battery was good and the capacity was accurate. In reality the one in this video lasts much longer than those blue ones.
Thanks for the guide, I was afraid with the soldering part but this helped me to do it. But I have a strange issue, if I am playing and charging at the same time, the screen settings co crazy changing all the time
I have an ags 001. Yk i think the idea is to turn the light off when you have light around. It actually has beautiful colour, yes it looks washed out eith the front light when there is light around. It is simply for playong in the dark. That being said i still want the ips screen 😂
Just installed one of these on a 101 that the ribbon cable got damaged on when it was dropped and broke in half, the only fiddly bit was the tiny wire to solder for the button functionality, take your time on that bit and use flux and it will be good to go
If I remember correctly, FRM deals with transparency. Most games, if not all, would just make a transparent object opaque and then flash it in and out. FRM should just make it look transparent.
It does, thank you! I've learned a lot more about it since. In some games, enabling it stops things flickering and makes them transparent. In other games, switching it off or on can help the screen scroll without flickering. I appreciate your input 😊
Regarding FRM: i believe it relates to specific games that abused the original gameboys, gameboy pockets and gameboy lights ghosting screen allowing them to do cool effects with it, and high refresh and low response time screens kinda screw with those, so the FRM likely is a compatibility setting for this.
I got this screen from watching you video. The tutorial was great and very thorough. I had a question, more of an observation really. I noticed that my battery life with the new screen in, is significantly less than the old screen. Is this normal to see. I am talking like hours of gameplay difference. With the old screen I could get 3-4 hours of gameplay. New screen on a full charge is less than an hour. I am not even using full brightness either. Any advice or help would be appreciated. I even bought a new battery to test this out. It is currently in the mail as i write this.
Update. The screen is working great, but today the screen turned a pinkish hue. Do you know how this could be or even a way to fix it? I do not have the wire soldered in and didn’t know if this was a firmware issue or a malfunction?
My screen is the same: 16:51 bright patches on the top left of the screen, only really noticable on the start-up screen/black screen Certainly not a deal breaker
I just installed a Hispeedido V5 and same thing. Really only noticeable when the screen is black/dark. Otherwise not noticeable. Glad I'm not alone. Very happy with the results! Like night and day compared to my old AGS-001! Thanks for the great tutorial, @joebleeps! 😁
@@liveandlearn304 it's still enough for me to be wary of getting another of these. It's nothing to do with the screw tightness either, just seems to be the quality of the screen. As you say though it's never an issue when playing
There's a lot of good ones on the ZedLabz website linked in the description, I'll check and update that now. I also get tools from Amazon sometimes but it can be hit or miss with those
Thank you! Yeah apologies for that, all part of the learning process. I generally try to avoid having any music on my videos at all while I'm talking now as I find it distracting when I'm watching other people's videos
Hey! Thanks for the great video. Im willing to try to solder it (will do it for the first time). I got a soldiering station, could you help me telling the soldering iron temperature for this project? Thank you!
It was a success! The one in the ribbon was kind of a big blob of solder however the second was was pretty good! And more important...it worked! Thanks for sharing the knowledge and making these high quality content videos.
I am getting a screen very much like this and while I’m excited to get mine I am curious if the brightness button will still work with the screen if i don’t solder the point?
as in, the movement of the clip is parallel with the surface of the board, it doesn't lift, it slides out. Unclip the plastic at both ends and the ribbon just comes out.
Need help before buying a new screen, once we install a new screen, is the L and R still making your game boy color game playable full screen or only square screen ?
What gauge size is that wire? I put mine back in the shipping packaging to keep it safe, then later forgot it was in there and threw the packaging away. :(
My screen is wobbly after installation. Like the adhesive didn't adhere to anything. I bought a Funny Playing case, so I'm not sure if maybe that's where I went wrong?
Yes you can! The one I used in this video was a 001 model. In fact I'd only recommend it for use with the 001 models as the 101 has a fantastic screen already :)
I recently got one and for some reason mine has this annoying vignette that flickers for no reason. the touch controls do not work either, maybe I simply got an older version but I regret not soldering the brightness control in, maybe then I could have removed the vignette
I'm not sure on the size but I can't see that being a problem with 0.71mm, there's just a couple of spots to do. I'd say the tip of the iron is the more important thing. A pointed tip is easier.
Where does the second wire goes? I see you can solder 2 wires and i received 2 wires with this kit. But i can’t find a video of someone who use the 2 wires 😂
is the soldering necessary for max brightness? or does the screen display on max brightness by default and the brightness button is to make it dimmer? asking because my soldering equipment is lost somewhere in my garage haha
Can anyone tell me why this display will randomly start changing color pallets and adjusts brightness by itself 2 displays I’ve gotten from them do this and it’s annoying. They’ll randomly come back to normal.
@@Manderson935 I found it does it a lot while charging it goes back to normal or I try to reset the display hope that helps… I guess it’s one of things you have to live with I’m told they sell updated screens
@@Manderson935 if you attached the wire that came to the kit to the brightness adjustment button just below the screen just long press it and the options will pop up.
On the back of the screen you can see the wires going to the touch points. You can cut the wires to disable it but that's no guarantee it will solve your problem
Correct. If you're planning to keep the original shell the main difficulty you'll face is trying to remove the screw covers on the screen surround without causing any damage. It's absolutely possible but take your time over it. You've got to be careful of the rubber plugs as well as the surrounding plastic.
Hi, i followed your instructions but after putting it all together i found that the shell does not hold the screen properly, it wiggles about and doesnt line up squarely. Is there any advice you can give to fix this? Perhaps a centering bracket or something?
Im having a super weird issue where the screen works fine but when i play with the charger plugged in either the sensors on the screen dont work or they randomly trigger themselves and the brightness changes on its own
@JoeBleeps no I just put in the ribbon cable. Also I can't change the visual effect like when you can make the screen more pixilated if that makes sense. Maybe I have put the ribbon cable in enough? But I'm not sure if that's the reason
@JoeBleeps you actually hit the nail on the head. Went and looked at my chargers and after trying the 3rd party travel adapter and comparing it to my original nintendo charger it was the 3rd party one that had the issue, likely because of its larger voltage. Thank you sir!
@JoeBleeps I already did everything.I solder the small wire.I did the soldering kinda bad but everything came out good.I like using the small button for brightness.Not the touch screen.And the megabat battery is better than the original one
@JoeBleeps it's a retropixel pre laminated ips screen off of Amazon. It looks awesome. Just after about 20 minutes of playing I can see background images on the screen. If I turn it off for about 10 minutes the images go away. I also bought one for the GBC and I don't have any issues with it at all.
When I turn on my gba, the brightness settings is on automatically and scrolls and I can’t turn it off. Could it be that if the red wire to close to A button that’ll show?
So you soldered the brightness wire and now it repeatedly scrolls through the brightness settings? Less likely the A button and more likely the brightness button. Also double check your soldering and make sure you haven't sorted to any nearby points
@@JoeBleeps I ended up fixing the issue, it was the shell that was applying pressure so I’ve replaced it and now it works. Thanks for your help though!
@@JoeBleeps all right, I wanted to make sure cause I still don't find many answers about that on the net. I think I'm going to be okay with the no-soldering method :) Thanks very much !
I just completed an IPS screen installation and a complete shell swap w/ buttons, using this video for assistance. Thanks for the video. I never soldered before but I tried it and it actually wasn't too difficult. I used a generous amount of flux and everything smoothly. Idk why but when you mentioned the part about soldering was "great fun" that gave me the confidence to do it. The toughest part I found was connecting/disconnect the ribbon cable. Theres just so little room. Besides that it was real smooth.
Thank you for that detailed feedback, it means a lot. Especially knowing that some of the "little things" in my guidance can make a difference. I hope you enjoyed it! Good work 😊
Absolutely the best tear down video for the GBA SP I’ve seen! I learned more by watching this one than I have in last year! Thank you sir!
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it
Dude. You are a life saver. I had no idea why my screen was so dim and it turns out the culprit was the touch controls. Thank you!
Hope it's a bit brighter now!
Thank you for a very well made video. You convinced me to finally pull the trigger and order a new screen and battery for my SP.
I was on the fence for years about modding a GBA, but if I was gonna do it, it would be for the original GBA, as I didn't wanna cut up my beloved SP. The drop in screen plus the extra filter options really are what won me over.
Plus, your presentation was engaging enough that I watched the entire thing even after my mind was made up. I'll definitely be back here when it's time to install. I only have 1 solder job under my belt so I'm excited to give this one a go and get better at it! Cheers!
Ahh that's really lovely feedback, thank you! I just posted a new video of my latest SP builds, I hope you enjoy that too!
The bright spots on the corner of the screen is actually caused by the display screws being too tight. When I installed this kit, I had spots on three corners of my screen and after slightly loosening the screws it completely fixed the issue entirely and now it's perfect. It's a bit annoying if you already put the rubber caps back on the screen but yeah, if you're buying this screen make sure to adjust the screws on the display before putting the rubber caps on.
Yeah I thought the same thing but as I said in the video it didn't make a difference in this case. I actually ended up removing it from the housing altogether and it still had the same issue when I connected it up and tested it.
Great video! I had never soldered before in my life and you inspired me to put this display in my gba sp. I can say that I followed these instructions, and the end result turned out great. New life has been breathed back into my gba! Thank you so much!
That's really great to hear. Thanks for sharing 🙏
omg best video ever! I recently bought a refurbished gameboy advanced sp and the screen was so old/dim looking, Ive never upgraded or deconstructed anything before! but i bought a kit and watched this video and it only took me like 15min! thank you so much!
@@Tessabellaofficial good going! Glad I could help. Enjoy your new game boy 😁
Thank you, this helped lots. I struggled with the hinges, apart from that it was smooth sailing. Great video
Thank you. Yes those hinges can be a struggle!
Thank you so much for this great video! Just finished installing my new screen successfully thanks to your helpful instructions! 🎉
That is so great to hear! Thanks for telling me
Thank you for this video, Joe! It was a great help to see you go step by step and I am in love with the new look of my SP!
I'm glad it was helpful! Enjoy your new console :)
Thank you so much. I was so nervous because this was my first mod of a game console and I didn't want to mess it up. I followed your instructions step by step and it took me about an hour to do except I skipped the solder part.
Probably wise to skip the soldering on your first build. Glad this video helped!
Thank you so much for this video! One thing I’ll mention to anyone interested in doing this themselves is to not lose the square nut attached to the bottom panel. That’s important for keeping the battery cover secure
Absolutely important. Get it in the shell as soon as possible. Nothing worse than reaching the final stage of putting the battery cover on and realising you have to take it all apart again to put that nut in!
This was an excellent tutorial. It made the install and soldering 10x easier. I also appreciate the controls guide because I couldn't for the life of me figure them out
I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this tutorial and the 3Dprinted tool, they were both lifesavers!
I even did the soldering, despite my super shaky hands it did end up working out 👌
I did have a slight struggle with the power connection of the speaker, since the added wire was in the way of the contact points of the motherboard first time I tried to close the case.
@@jellesmith it is tricky to get that wire in the right position. Good job!
Thanks so much for this video. I just modded my Gameboy with the IPS V2 HISPEEDIDO and wow the picture is incredible. It is just amazing with the colors, brightness.
That's awesome. Enjoy!
Would replacing the screen lower the value of the Gameboy when reselling. I am thinking maybe in original state it's worth more?
Just did this mod myself with this exact kit & using this video as a guide. As mentioned, reconnecting the ribbon cable is a little fiddly & as a 'soldering virgin' I did not enjoy that part, but I did a clean job and it all functions correctly now! My screen is nice, no bright spots etc. I did the build inside an original SP shell, since it was in good condition and I felt it was worth preserving. The rubber caps disintegrated somewhat, so if you're planning on using an O.G. shell I suggest ordering a spare set of these.
Many thanks Joe Bleeps, you're a ⭐
@@Bovrillor thanks for the detailed update, good job!
Thanks very much for the tutorial video, helped me out a lot. Worse bit for me was getting the hinges back in (I also did a case swap), was really worried I was going to break the new case. The soldering and ribbon cable seemed easier than the hinges by far! Thanks again for the clear step-by-step.
@@edmundroth6337 works on 001 with no case mods needed on this particular screen
I've done entire videos about those hinges, definitely the hardest bit
Followed this step by step and my new screen works perfectly! Thanks so much for the tutorial!
That's great to hear!
order myself an IPS screen! I was hesitant to get one but you persuaded me to buy one anyway
I hope you like it!
Fantastic step by step tutorial! Just received one of these today and found your video guide. Was a little nervous after clumsily trashing my front lit screen trying to remove a single speck of trapped dust. The screen quality is amazing and the whole process was very easy. Thanks from a new subscriber! 😊
Thanks for the sub! I'm glad I could help
Just installed this mod, including soldering the wire for the brightness control button - literally my first time soldering anything. My connections are much uglier than those shown in the video above, but the work, so woohoo! Thanks for the video walk through, it was a big help.
Good job! I'm glad it helped
Have been waiting for something like this for awhile now. Can't wait to put this to the test into some original GBA SP shells :) thanks for the review Joe!
Excellent! Let me know how it goes 😊
@@JoeBleeps Both screens arrived today. I have to agree with the color settings being not too impressive but the brightness is amazing. Love how it fits flush into the stock SP shells too! Have to say it looks much brighter and nicer than the 101 screen
@@YehWright I agree, it's so crisp
@@JoeBleeps Only issue I have is with the light bleeding on the sides. Though it's not too noticeable on my one I hope in the future versions they will improve on this! But overall very happy with my purchase, thanks so much for your review Joe! Wouldn't have jumped at it if I didn't see your review!
@@YehWright I truly appreciate that, thank you
Got it. I’m a total newb and it was pretty easy after I bought a Tri wing. My biggest problems were 1) little square nut came out and I had to find where it went, 2) that tape really was a pain to get back in, and 3 the clear plastic light cover came off and I had take it apart again to put it in. 😅 I didn’t even try to attempt the soldering. very helpful video!
I have encountered ALL those issues over the years. We learn from our experiences 😁
So are you able to still use the touch sensors to adjust screen brightness with out soldering?
NVM i just needed to watch another 30 seconds of the video.
@@jman_thegreat4472 glad you found what you needed
Best video out there... would really love more comparison on the original ags-101 and the replacement screen side by side. In all these years there hasn't been this type of video
Thank you! I'll bear that in mind 😊
TY, just got the screen today, followed the guide and it looks perfect. :)
Great to hear!
Good tip is to put battery door back on shell before closing up the unit. The little metal cube that the battery door screw locates in can be loose in the shell and will end up rattling around in side when you think you’re finished.
I've never had one come loose, however many times I have reassembled the whole thing and realised I forgot to put the metal nut in there in the first place!
Thank you for this video, as it gave me the knowledge and the confidence to perform this mod. It wasn't too difficult, even the soldering. I am also left-handed which made watching you extremely easy to follow. I didn't have any kapton tape, so I used electrical tape, but I will replace it soon. One minor issue I had was that the glass front of the screen was ever-so-slightly too wide for the frame of my original silver AGS-001 shell. I got it in place, but after I put the top half back together, the left and right side of the plastic frame of the screen was bulging out very slightly. I fixed this undoing the five screws around the screen, removing the back (along with the screen which it was taped to), and then slightly shaved down the four tabs on the left and right of the inside of the screen frame, until the screen went in without needing much pressure. All good now. The screen looks beautiful! Cheers from Canada!
How did you shave it down? I’m considering doing this mod
I just used a small exacto knife along with a file. It solved it easily
gonna be upgrading my 001 soon with this kit. the screen looks stellar in comparison to the 001
So much better than the 001!
Nice video again. I was so happy when I found the battery from Helder to replace the rubbish I had been using.
It's a really nice quick solution isn't it, a nice companion to this screen for sure
@@JoeBleeps drop in for the win
@@brianellerker9038 absolutely
the FRM, if like in the funnyplaying kits, is a function to correct the transparency effect that is made through flickering on some games, you can test it with Zelda Link's Awakening with the dog chain (the ball with teeth in the main town), also while cutting small grass.
I would actually be interested to see the effect tested, if it does work, that + integers scaling and pixel modes would be all the features i want from a kit XD (well, actually i would also like a usefull color mode that color correct the games with blown up colors like golden sun)
Thanks for this! I'll try it out on Zelda
Amazing vid! Managed to do my first mod following this. Massive thank you, Joe!
I'm really glad to hear that! thanks for the feedback
That was satisfying to watch. I was always intimidated by IPS screen installations, so this might be just for me. Or maybe I should push myself more and finally start soldering things.
Just take it one step at a time. But definitely worth getting a cheap low wattage soldering iron and learning how to use it!
Thanks, man, cool video. BTW you look like Michael "Squints" Palledorous in The Sandlot. LOL that's pretty cool too.
Hahaha! I'll have to Google that one
i travel a lot for work and i feel that the gba is the perfect travel system for quick flights. I totally need to do this and while i have it open replace some of the other smaller parts.
Definitely worth doing. I have a similar video coming soon so keep an eye out for that
FRM is explained by Makho, old displays are slow and transparent is done by flashing white and black sprites which looks gray, new displays are fast which flicker during this transparent objects.
It’s awesome feature by the downside it slows the response time in ms so in fighting games is apparent
Thank you, although I'd learned more about it since making this video, that's a really succinct explanation of the pros and cons of the feature 🙌
Thx for good explained tutorial.
I learned some things I needed to know that I couldn't with tutorials from others
And I have printed your SP 3d hinge removal tool :)
Ahh that's great! I'm curious to know what you learned!
1:Peeling off the protective film from screen before instal
2:Peeling off the self-adhesive on the back off the lens before instal
3:The way you looped the ribbon with round pencel
4:Dont scratch the back off the lens
5:The screen screws not to tight
6:Both solderpoints on ribbon are same
@@Poirot07 thank you for sharing that with me!
May need to snag one of these. Just fixed an old gba a friend gave me a while back and got a charger and battery upgrade for it already. Also grabbed an ez flash while they where on sale a month ago on ebay. All thats left is, customizing the shell, replacing hienges, screen upgrade, and possibly better audio. The little speaker didnt and old screens dont seem to age well. My phones 3x louder than the gba.
Go for it! I'm currently putting together a new GBA tutorial
Awesome video! Was able to successfully replace my screen, thank you Joe.
When I closed everything up and tried it the screen lit up, but was black. My heart sank, did I damage the ribbon cable? I opened it back up again and found that the locks on the ribbon were loose. When I popped one in, then the other, the other side would loosen. It took a few times to get them both down, but it worked in the end. The new display is gorgeous.
Those ribbon clips are very fiddly. I'm glad you were patient!
Not sure if someone has already responded to this, but, I saw on another display that FRM was used for managing the GB Advance games that use transparent images in games. Because of the IPS screen being more modern, the refresh rate can act a bit weird with the transparent images and make them flicker on the screen. So, by turning FRM on, it adjusts it so it does not flicker.
Thanks! I learned this a little while after but I appreciate the input and hopefully it helps other people who see this
what is the difference between the 800mah battery you showed us, and the cheap 850mah blue battery that is available amazon or anywhere else? isnt the 850mah just better for cheaper?
It would be if the quality of the battery was good and the capacity was accurate. In reality the one in this video lasts much longer than those blue ones.
@@JoeBleeps thanks! :D
Thanks for the guide, I was afraid with the soldering part but this helped me to do it.
But I have a strange issue, if I am playing and charging at the same time, the screen settings co crazy changing all the time
@@JeisonTriana very strange. Hopefully nothing is pinching and the screen ribbon is fully seated?
@@JoeBleeps It seems to be the charger, it is a japanese one, tried with an american one and the issue is gone, still weird though
@@JeisonTriana that is strange.The console should be fine with either
This is a great tutorial, thanks a lot!
Thank you!
@@JoeBleeps You've got some fantastic content Joe, just subbed after watching a few more, really good stuff man
@@plume... I really appreciate it! Thank you so much 🙏
Great Video. So much info thank you
Thanks for the positive feedback! 🙏
This is incredible.
Thanks!
I have an ags 001. Yk i think the idea is to turn the light off when you have light around. It actually has beautiful colour, yes it looks washed out eith the front light when there is light around. It is simply for playong in the dark.
That being said i still want the ips screen 😂
Yeah the original Game Boy Color and Game Boy Advance screens look amazing in direct sunlight. But that IPS screen is wonderful.
Amazing video. Thanks!
You're welcome
Just installed one of these on a 101 that the ribbon cable got damaged on when it was dropped and broke in half, the only fiddly bit was the tiny wire to solder for the button functionality, take your time on that bit and use flux and it will be good to go
Wise words!
If I remember correctly, FRM deals with transparency. Most games, if not all, would just make a transparent object opaque and then flash it in and out. FRM should just make it look transparent.
It does, thank you! I've learned a lot more about it since. In some games, enabling it stops things flickering and makes them transparent. In other games, switching it off or on can help the screen scroll without flickering. I appreciate your input 😊
That looks realy good, i Just ordered an graphite sp in prestine conditon. I might upgrade the screen, good video btw !
Thank you! If your graphite one has a 001 screen, definitely worth the upgrade.
@@JoeBleeps yea i recon it Will, als 101 is very rare right?
@@tomaswolsink7620 oh yeah and an excellent screen too!
@@JoeBleeps indeed it was a 001 screen still heeps beter than non backlit screens haha
@@tomaswolsink7620 oh yeah it's all relative. These drop in IPS screens are amazing compared to the 001 screen, you'll love it
After weeks of putting it off, finally added the little wire. Took longer for the soldering iron to heat up than the job took in total! 😂
Hahaha! Story of my life. Takes forever to get round to doing things that take very little time at all. Well done, regardless!
Regarding FRM: i believe it relates to specific games that abused the original gameboys, gameboy pockets and gameboy lights ghosting screen allowing them to do cool effects with it, and high refresh and low response time screens kinda screw with those, so the FRM likely is a compatibility setting for this.
Thank you that's a great explanation 🙏
Sturdy!
It's really good, I've been playing on it a lot
I got this screen from watching you video. The tutorial was great and very thorough. I had a question, more of an observation really. I noticed that my battery life with the new screen in, is significantly less than the old screen. Is this normal to see. I am talking like hours of gameplay difference. With the old screen I could get 3-4 hours of gameplay. New screen on a full charge is less than an hour. I am not even using full brightness either. Any advice or help would be appreciated. I even bought a new battery to test this out. It is currently in the mail as i write this.
Yeah it's definitely worth investing in a better battery for these screens, the original just won't give enough power
Update. The screen is working great, but today the screen turned a pinkish hue. Do you know how this could be or even a way to fix it? I do not have the wire soldered in and didn’t know if this was a firmware issue or a malfunction?
Thanks. I have an sp that I accidentally broke the screen on. This might work just for fixing it
It's a great solution
Very useful thanks 👍🏼
Excellent! You're welcome
My screen is the same: 16:51 bright patches on the top left of the screen, only really noticable on the start-up screen/black screen Certainly not a deal breaker
I'm glad it's not just me!
I just installed a Hispeedido V5 and same thing. Really only noticeable when the screen is black/dark. Otherwise not noticeable. Glad I'm not alone. Very happy with the results! Like night and day compared to my old AGS-001!
Thanks for the great tutorial, @joebleeps! 😁
@@liveandlearn304 it's still enough for me to be wary of getting another of these. It's nothing to do with the screw tightness either, just seems to be the quality of the screen. As you say though it's never an issue when playing
where do you get your tools? triwing screw drivers an what not! ive been wanting to get some good ones like yours
There's a lot of good ones on the ZedLabz website linked in the description, I'll check and update that now. I also get tools from Amazon sometimes but it can be hit or miss with those
Wonderful video as always. What screw driver is that?
Thank you! It's a Xiaomi Wowstick
Need to lower the volume of that music so I can hear you, otherwise brilliant review
Thank you! Yeah apologies for that, all part of the learning process. I generally try to avoid having any music on my videos at all while I'm talking now as I find it distracting when I'm watching other people's videos
How come my IPS turned black into orange so now the color pallet is off for my games. Is there a way to fix this?
Haven't seen that before but I would double check that the ribbon cable is seated properly
Do we necesserely need to solder the ribbon cable or was that optional?
It's optional, it just enables the brightness control on the button. It does the same thing as the touch sensor in that respect.
So if you dont solder that extra wire you can just tap the screen buttons to cycle the brightness instead of the oem brightness button?
That's right
@@JoeBleeps sweet that was my only worry with this, thanks 👍🏻
soldering is totally worth learning though. loads of fun :) @@LRSNRCNG309
Hey! Thanks for the great video. Im willing to try to solder it (will do it for the first time). I got a soldiering station, could you help me telling the soldering iron temperature for this project? Thank you!
It varies from one iron to the next but around 350°C will melt solder quickly, which means less time spent on the ribbon and less risk of damage
It was a success! The one in the ribbon was kind of a big blob of solder however the second was was pretty good! And more important...it worked! Thanks for sharing the knowledge and making these high quality content videos.
@@Strudellable thank you for the feedback and congratulations on a successful build!
What is the soldering with the red wired for? What happens if it's not solder? I'm not good with mods.
It lets you use the brightness button on the console. If you don't use it that's fine, you can use the touch controls instead
I am getting a screen very much like this and while I’m excited to get mine I am curious if the brightness button will still work with the screen if i don’t solder the point?
No, with the new screen and no wire that button won't do anything
6:11 no idea what you mean. It’s a lateral movement. I can’t remove the ribbon cable.
as in, the movement of the clip is parallel with the surface of the board, it doesn't lift, it slides out. Unclip the plastic at both ends and the ribbon just comes out.
How do you turn on frm if you didn’t solder the wire?
As far as I know you can only do this if you soldered the wire. I am thinking of doing a simple tutorial video for soldering tasks like this.
I have an ags-101 should i buy a ips v5?
No, I wouldn't advise that. I'd keep the 101 as it is and I'd source a 001 console for this sort of upgrade.
Need help before buying a new screen, once we install a new screen, is the L and R still making your game boy color game playable full screen or only square screen ?
Yes that feature still works
Hi, can you plz link to the srewdriver? I´m looking for one like this for a long time, thx :D
@@ChefkochsWelt it's called a Xiaomi Wowstick 😊
What gauge size is that wire? I put mine back in the shipping packaging to keep it safe, then later forgot it was in there and threw the packaging away. :(
it's a really tiny gauge single core wire known as kynar, but any small wire should be fine, maybe around 32AWG
My screen is wobbly after installation. Like the adhesive didn't adhere to anything. I bought a Funny Playing case, so I'm not sure if maybe that's where I went wrong?
Was there any foam to go on the back of the screen?
@@JoeBleeps There wasn't. But I had some 3M squares here at home, so I used one of those instead! ☺️
@@Optimism247 did that do the trick?
@@JoeBleeps so far! It still has slight movement, but it's so subtle that you can't really tell. ☺️
@@Optimism247 glad to hear it
Can you recommend any video if you want to use your old original shell?
It's the same process, just be careful when removing those rubber inserts.
Do you need to cut the shell?
@@SebastijanStanivuk not with the drop in kit, the shell I used here is just the same as the original shell
Bro I am a 13 year old and I replaced the shell.I am about to buy the screen
Good luck with the installation!
@@JoeBleeps thx
I did a similar mod to a gameboy color when I was 11 lol.
You prob can but i wanna ask just in case, my Gba SP model is the 001, Can i still do this mod, right? Im new to this haha
Yes you can! The one I used in this video was a 001 model. In fact I'd only recommend it for use with the 001 models as the 101 has a fantastic screen already :)
I recently got one and for some reason mine has this annoying vignette that flickers for no reason. the touch controls do not work either, maybe I simply got an older version but I regret not soldering the brightness control in, maybe then I could have removed the vignette
That is strange. Doesn't take long to open it back up and solder the wire in, I did that in my most recent video
is there a difference between hisspeedo ips kit and FunnyPlaying Game Boy Advance SP 3.0" IPS Kit
Not really, but the drop in option is very convenient
@@JoeBleeps thank you, i am trying to understand the difference and both SEEM to have the same features
What mm solder did you use? And would 0.71mm work?
I'm not sure on the size but I can't see that being a problem with 0.71mm, there's just a couple of spots to do. I'd say the tip of the iron is the more important thing. A pointed tip is easier.
Do the makers of this screen make one for the Gameboy Advance?
They do indeed. It's Hispeedido
What flux do you use?
It's just liquid flux, it helps the solder flow but it's not too messy
@@JoeBleeps Is it a specific brand or just any regular old liquid flux?
@@demonswrath8803 Topnik RF800
Do you know the size of the wire? I lost mine when finishing 😢
Just needs to be a very thin wire. 32awg or so
Where does the second wire goes? I see you can solder 2 wires and i received 2 wires with this kit. But i can’t find a video of someone who use the 2 wires 😂
Just one wire to solder, the other is a spare
@@JoeBleeps ooh okay thanks
is the soldering necessary for max brightness? or does the screen display on max brightness by default and the brightness button is to make it dimmer? asking because my soldering equipment is lost somewhere in my garage haha
The soldering is only necessary for the "comfort" On Screen Menu. You can still cycle through all 16 levels of brightness by using the touch controls.
Is it really safe to touch flex cable with soldering iron?
Yes it is, just work quickly and you're fine. You're actually soldering to the metal point so the iron isn't going directly onto the ribbon
@@JoeBleeps I got it, thanks!
Nice video. What kind of flux is that, though? Can you please link
Topnik RF-800
Can anyone tell me why this display will randomly start changing color pallets and adjusts brightness by itself 2 displays I’ve gotten from them do this and it’s annoying. They’ll randomly come back to normal.
I am having same issue. Will it go back to normal?
@@Manderson935 I found it does it a lot while charging it goes back to normal or I try to reset the display hope that helps… I guess it’s one of things you have to live with I’m told they sell updated screens
@@ElysianConcepts how do you reset the screen? I turn it on and off and it still is pink. I don’t charge it much unless I need to.
@@Manderson935 if you attached the wire that came to the kit to the brightness adjustment button just below the screen just long press it and the options will pop up.
Is there any way to disable the touch controls? Every time I close the gameboy, even if it is turned off, it changes the brightness
On the back of the screen you can see the wires going to the touch points. You can cut the wires to disable it but that's no guarantee it will solve your problem
So this screen should directly bolt on with no trimming on my oem cobalt blue SP?
Correct. If you're planning to keep the original shell the main difficulty you'll face is trying to remove the screw covers on the screen surround without causing any damage. It's absolutely possible but take your time over it. You've got to be careful of the rubber plugs as well as the surrounding plastic.
@JoeBleeps Thank you for the heads up, im going to give it a try. Much appreciate the fast reply and the awesome video
@@mr.boostang2064 thank you!
Do you know the size of the wire? I lost mine during installation.
Is the 450 charger enough to charge a 800 battery and this new screen
The original charger is fine
Would this screen work on a regularOG shell?
Absolutely
Hi, i followed your instructions but after putting it all together i found that the shell does not hold the screen properly, it wiggles about and doesnt line up squarely. Is there any advice you can give to fix this? Perhaps a centering bracket or something?
Did you peel the backing off the tape on the reverse of the lens?
Yes. 🤔@@JoeBleeps
Is it possible someone modified your shell to fit the older style IPS that requires removing material?
@@cookieman876 that’s possible! I used a small square of double-sided 3M tape to hold it still. It didn’t effect anything ☺️
Im having a super weird issue where the screen works fine but when i play with the charger plugged in either the sensors on the screen dont work or they randomly trigger themselves and the brightness changes on its own
That's odd. Did you install the wire at all?
@JoeBleeps no I just put in the ribbon cable. Also I can't change the visual effect like when you can make the screen more pixilated if that makes sense. Maybe I have put the ribbon cable in enough? But I'm not sure if that's the reason
@@skirtingboard that would be worth checking. Seems like the charging voltage is interfering with the sensors
@@skirtingboard that would be worth checking. Seems like the charging voltage is interfering with the sensors
@JoeBleeps you actually hit the nail on the head. Went and looked at my chargers and after trying the 3rd party travel adapter and comparing it to my original nintendo charger it was the 3rd party one that had the issue, likely because of its larger voltage. Thank you sir!
Where can I buy that battery at? I search it on ebay and I don't see it
I got it from ZedLabz
@JoeBleeps Oh ok thanks.Ima mod my GBA sp dark blue similar to the N64 color.Let see how it comes out
@@Marco213s.mexicanpower good luck!
@JoeBleeps I already did everything.I solder the small wire.I did the soldering kinda bad but everything came out good.I like using the small button for brightness.Not the touch screen.And the megabat battery is better than the original one
@@Marco213s.mexicanpower awesome, good job! I like using the brightness button too
I just bought a ips screen and it's burning the pokemon game images on the screen.. and ideas to help?
That doesn't sound right at all. In the first instance I'd lower the brightness. What brand is the screen kit you used?
@JoeBleeps it's a retropixel pre laminated ips screen off of Amazon.
It looks awesome. Just after about 20 minutes of playing I can see background images on the screen. If I turn it off for about 10 minutes the images go away.
I also bought one for the GBC and I don't have any issues with it at all.
@@awaken9987 that's a shame. Definitely try the brightness a bit lower
When I turn on my gba, the brightness settings is on automatically and scrolls and I can’t turn it off. Could it be that if the red wire to close to A button that’ll show?
So you soldered the brightness wire and now it repeatedly scrolls through the brightness settings? Less likely the A button and more likely the brightness button. Also double check your soldering and make sure you haven't sorted to any nearby points
@@JoeBleeps I’ve unsoldered it and tested it and it still scrolls through after I unsoldered everything.
@@KanyeWestLover12345 that's very strange. Can you get the osd menu to come on?
@@JoeBleeps I ended up fixing the issue, it was the shell that was applying pressure so I’ve replaced it and now it works. Thanks for your help though!
@@KanyeWestLover12345 fantastic. It definitely sounded like a pressure issue
Does this screen fit the AGS001?
Yes this is an AGS 001 in the video
@@edmundroth6337 not with this screen kit
Hi,
Do I need to solder to change the brightness ?
Yes you do. Only one wire though
@@JoeBleeps So to change the brightness by tapping the screen, I still need to solder ?
@@ilyeser1708 apologies. If you just want the touch control there's no soldering. If you want to use the button, it's a single wire
@@JoeBleeps all right, I wanted to make sure cause I still don't find many answers about that on the net. I think I'm going to be okay with the no-soldering method :)
Thanks very much !
@@ilyeser1708 no problem!
I just did this. Unfortunately found a dead pixel and in the process hopefully getting a replacement/refund.
What kind of flux did you use?
It's liquid flux, Topnik RF800
@@JoeBleeps Thank you!
@@holotape you're welcome