It's all subjective. Is it for everyone? No. Some people think it's lame to paint a model with an airbrush; others don't want to spend hours on a single model with a paintbrush. Until people are paying for your models, you have the choice to paint them however you want. Nothing is worse than playing against a gray plastic army on the other side of the table. So I am all for people finding whatever means they like best to get paint on their models. Keep on doing you!
I was able to try slap-chop for the first time last night and I feel the same way you do. I loved the result I got from the space marine that I painted and also loved that it didn't take up much time. Letting it set to dry took up most of the time. If I might suggest one thing (to minimize chance of the model breaking or accidents with the scalpel), you could also put some putty on the paint base and put your mini on it. It holds firm enough to paint with and you don't have to snap it off when you're done. Keep up the videos, man! I've enjoyed them all!
Should get the micro set & micro sol for the transfers seeing as your using varnish to lock it in. makes the transfers conform to the surface & in recess grooves (i use it on Gundams alot). & aye,my old art teacher back in the early '90s put me onto this kind of painting, although we had to just water paints down back then. Glad its still alive today :) happy painting dude & i've sub'd
@@MiniatureHobbyist Yeah he's right. The microset helps to seal the transfer in nicely. The microsol will soften the decal and eliminate those creases you get from putting the transfer on with just water. Just add a bit of microsol, then gently flatten it with a q-tip. Just make sure you're careful, because when you soften the decal, it becomes more prone to tearing.
To slapchop I think it did the community a great deed because I now see A LOT more painted armies in the hobby stores. Back 10 years ago where it wasnt well known, everybody basically painted the CITADEL way and it took them ages to paint their armies with very mixed results depending on peoples skills. So you had a lot of non-painted, half-painted and horribly painted armies around. Now with the great rise of contrast paints, the quantity of adequately painted armies has skyrocketed drastically. And that makes our games more immersive and fun to play and for 95% of players, Slapchok looks pretty good too. Its just this UA-cam/Reddit bubble that really seems to fuzz over it a lot. I much rather want to fight 10 people with adequately painted armys than 10 people of wich only 3 have fully painted armies with the rest beeing standart plastic gray or primed black.
Nice video, I also like the slapchop method and contrast paints so its nice to see others also using it. Use Microsol on the transfers, it slightly melts them letting them fit curved surfaces like the shoulderpads, also use microset to help position it.
I will second this, Micro Sol and Micro Set are a good investment when you get to applying transfers. You can also use a dry cotton bud to press down the transfer. A rolling motion will minimize the risk of tearing, smooth the creases, and wick up the liquid from the surface in one step.
Great video. Slap chop is easy to begin but has lots of potential. I like the dry brushing because it is a relatively simple process that’s fun to do even for beginners
Well,I stumbled across your channel a week ago and was intrigued by your methods. I had Contrast paints and some Speed paints knocking around from an old project. I had 40 LOTR Orcs to paint…. Safe to say this slapchop malarkey made the painting quick and stress free. Completed the models in a day or so. Varnished them up then out an enamel filter on them…job done. Thanks for the videos and inspiration,made my painting backlog slimmer (but just a little bit!)
I'm just about to start Blood Angels using slapchop and this video has helped reassure me the outcome is going to be amazing (obviously il be red not blue lol) Awesome job and awesome video, thanks again :)
Slap Chop is amazing. You can take extra time while preparing with drybrush and then gently add shade and layer some contrast paints to get amazing results. This technic has so much potential and will find more acceptance in future
You just need micro set to apply on the surface you want to put the decal, then a bit after application of the decal. Let it dry for a bit, roll a cotton ear bud very gently to sponge the remaining liquid.
the thing about slap chop is there's nothing stopping you from going the extra mile and doing some highlighting and detail work with after the fact. but simply slapchopping looks every bit as good if not better than the traditional table ready 'base coat and a wash' method.
I am definitely a fan of the slap chop method. Has helped me to paint most of my orks over the last few weeks. As someone with adhd I already fine time management difficult, and this speedy method to painting really helps.
Ok, I thought that the slapchop method wouldn't work on power armor. This video totally proved that wrong! Great job and thank you for opening me up to new painting possibilities!
Nice work. Get yourself some Micro-Sol (Tamiya) or Decal Softener (Vallejo) - melts the plastic of the decal so it conforms to the contours of the surface you’re applying it to without crinkling. I think there is another product - Micro Set (?) that stops the reaction and anchors it in place.
2 things to say about this . . . . 1. Awesome video and painting, the beauty shots at the end look like box art material. I'd be well chuffed with that outcome. Perfect 2. Use a cotton bud to move and press the transfer down. All the best
Nice, I've found painting guns with metalic 1st then adding speedpaint black for example gives better results & if you want a skuffed up weapons use a dry bristled brush over the speedpaint to show more metal 😉👍.
slap chop is great, i use it as another method for different things along with traditional techniques. I think there is a lot of channels recently who focus on high end painting shitting on it recently. The hobby is fun and whatever way you enjoy it go for it!
Funny thing is that it is cool to see master painters do their thing, and that's great for them. This the rest of us can actually do with a good result.
I would love to see a video on how to drybrush as well as you are doing it. What kind of brush are you using? How much paint are you leaving on? I can't seem to get a good technique down.
I use the cheapest make up brushes I can find on amazon, I think it was £3.99 for 12 brushes lol, get as much paint of the brush as you can and take it slowly until you are happy with it 🙂
Great job as always :) honestly if you didn't mention it a I would never have known there was an issue with the transfer but I saw someone mentioned Micro Sol and Micro Set so those should definitely help you make the process easier. Always enjoying hearing how much your enjoying painting now too it's a fun part of the hobby and it's great to hear this method is what helps you enjoy it
Looks good mate. Personally I really enjoy seeing someone put out results they can be happy with. Have a good one, plus your little fog/smoke machine is cool
I'm one of those that have been using the "Slop chop" method but since the speed paint from army painters and your vids, I've only become inspired to start again. Magic blue is the one I've been wanting for my Ultramarines. However, I've been using metallic colours to do mine. I use the decal liquids to put on transfers ti make it adhere and mould onto the shape properly. Then use matt varnish on them to blend into the rest of the paint job. PS: How can I send my old spruce to you?
Ahh so you could have told me about this 2 years ago when I started this channel 😛, Im pleased how the magic blue came out. Cheers for the offer of sprues but Ive got quite a lot at the moment but thanks 🙂
How do you get the paint to look so smooth? Whenever I try it the paint looks so patchy/tie dye-y. I wonder if it's because I'm not dry brushing enough... Looks sweet tho.
Great looking model! Getting ready to paint my first Intercessors (salamanders successor so im going for Turqoise armor) and I’m curious, what brushes do you like using? And how much paint do you usually get on the brush?
@@MiniatureHobbyist I painted some Khorne Berzerkers with a black prime and silver dry brushes and then Blood Angel's red contrast on top. Looks really good
So many people saying this method doesn't work on flat surfaces...but I think you just proved otherwise. if you can avoid the pooling it sure looks pretty good to me.
Are you planning on trying the slap chop method on other types of models? Happy little heretic hoping for some CSM attempts. Do you think it would work on vehicles? Love the videos as always keep up the good work
@@MiniatureHobbyist Wonderful! Haha I was told that I was mad for wanting to use speed paints/contrasts on vehicles or warmachines such as a forge fiend or a hell Drake, and I want to prove them wrong! And I think you've provided me with the means
@@MiniatureHobbyist MIni's being handled should always be given a coat of varnish to protect them, matte I find the best as it seems to bring out the detail better, some used to gloss first first then matte. Always varnish mine to protect them and mine are just going in a show case. Varnishing seems to have been forgotten over time and is hardly ever spoken about buy any painters online which I feel is a bad thing.
Slap Chop is better on highly textured models. I enjoyed it recently on Wracks and Mandrakes models. Probably slightly less so on marines. Normal airbrush is kinda better. But this approach is definately making into the arsenal. Great for painting flesh, cloth etc.
Seen the other comments so will only add - there is an excellent video on Micro-set / Micro-Sol on Sonic Sledgehammer Studio - only 11 minutes to watch and it will change your whole approach to applying decals.
Hello! I'm a newbie. I know this is kinda a silly question but do I really have to own contrast paints and the acrylic inks to use this deadly slap chop technique?
I'm glad you did a SM, I've been curious to see what kind of result you could get with the slap chop method. Looks great! I'm not even sure why there is any kind of debate about a painting technique. If it makes you excited about painting, I say screw 'em. :)
"Never had the confidence in painting" - cuts to shot of about 150/200 paints 00:23 😂 Don't underestimate yourself, and thanks for this video, it was perfect.
It's a neat style, especially since it's an actual artist technique (Grisaille) that was just given a dopey name. It's a tool, not a silver bullet. The big thing I feel it has though is a unique look, which is good if you are fine with that but it gives the model away as being done with this style. Not saying that's a bad thing, but it's like people who airbrush everything: You can immediately tell how they painted it. I always struggle with the zenithal part, even when drybrushing. It never looks as good as I see in videos.
"good enough" is always subjective ... before it was ever called "slap chop" I used heavy dry brushing prior to painting my miniatures for structural emphasis using basic acrylics in a thinned form, rely on it even more with the availability of contrast paints/speed paints etc.
I like the Slap Chop method. I see it has another tool I can use in my arsenal to painting miniatures. Is the slap chop method perfect? No....but did you spend 3 to 6 hours painting highlights to make it perfect? No. With slap chop you only need 15 to 20 minutes to have a table ready minature that looks pretty good and you can add highlights later if you want to give it that extra pop.
I could not agree more with you on this idea. I have painted well over a 2000 minis and most of this was using simple methods along these lines, even before speed paints where a thing. What critics of such methods fail to address is that if you go and do detailed work on your army this will take a long time. For example: Say you want to paint up an army of 100 models, and decide to paint them to a certain standard spending an average of 2 hours per model. This is 200 working hours. If you paint 2 hours every 3 days (as you have a life). That is 300 days. In almost a year, your army will be complete. On the other hand, with this approach (20 min per model, 5 models per hour )that same army would be done : 20 min per model, 5 models per hour = 10 models each 3rd day. 100 models in a month. Unpopular opinion here: People might say this is sub par, yet those very same people, once you see them at a club are playing gray legion.
Exactly, I am happy with how they look and if I ever get to a stage where I can do edge highlighting and layering and any of stuff then I can revisit these models and improve them 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist BTW, I have achieved slightly better results with an airbrush. I took a cheap Chinese Badger knock off,we are talking 70 GBP with a compressor here. I realize that the point of the video is to show everyone they CAN paint their models and be happy while doing it. Have you considered using a satin varnish to finish the models off? I feel the semi glossy finish would make them look even better and protect the paintjob . That would take a minute per model?
I personally love the slap chop method! It looks great and anyone can do it. But who cares what other people think? You paid for the minis so you do with them what you want
All the argument about what kind of painting is acceptable baffles me. Underpainting, Slap Chop whatever you want to call it it's just another tool in the Box. I find it particularly useful for painting metallics but for the most part I dry brush. The important thing is that whoever is painting their mini is Happy on how it turns out.
Check out Chaos Cards (use discount code CHECKMATE which will give 5% off) www.chaoscards.co.uk/shop/miniature-games 🙂
That marine looks amazing! Don't let anyone get you down about Slapchop. Your channel is fun and inspiring! Cheers
Cheers Patrick, appreciate that 🙂
It's all subjective. Is it for everyone? No. Some people think it's lame to paint a model with an airbrush; others don't want to spend hours on a single model with a paintbrush. Until people are paying for your models, you have the choice to paint them however you want. Nothing is worse than playing against a gray plastic army on the other side of the table. So I am all for people finding whatever means they like best to get paint on their models. Keep on doing you!
Cheers Adam, I am loving painting minifigures so its all good news 🙂
Absolutely. Agreed.
100%
Who cares if you play against gray at least you have someone to play with
Love the positivity and fun of this. That’s what the hobby is all about. Everyone is different. Do what brings you the most joy
This is definently my Happy Standard and one day I might come back to them to jazz them up even more 🙂
It never occurred to me that the holsters are probably not made of brown leather.... 🤦♂️
:D
I was able to try slap-chop for the first time last night and I feel the same way you do. I loved the result I got from the space marine that I painted and also loved that it didn't take up much time. Letting it set to dry took up most of the time. If I might suggest one thing (to minimize chance of the model breaking or accidents with the scalpel), you could also put some putty on the paint base and put your mini on it. It holds firm enough to paint with and you don't have to snap it off when you're done.
Keep up the videos, man! I've enjoyed them all!
Cheers buddy, I used to use putty but then had to paint bits of the feet that were inside the putty, so changed to gluing them down instead 😋
micro sol and micro set, help soften and set transfers so that they can go on rounded surfaces. hope that helps and awesome Ultra marine.
Cheers bud, just brought some 🙂
Should get the micro set & micro sol for the transfers seeing as your using varnish to lock it in. makes the transfers conform to the surface & in recess grooves (i use it on Gundams alot). & aye,my old art teacher back in the early '90s put me onto this kind of painting, although we had to just water paints down back then. Glad its still alive today :) happy painting dude & i've sub'd
Cheers for the tip I will do that to the others and cheers for the sub, good to have you here 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist Yeah he's right. The microset helps to seal the transfer in nicely. The microsol will soften the decal and eliminate those creases you get from putting the transfer on with just water. Just add a bit of microsol, then gently flatten it with a q-tip. Just make sure you're careful, because when you soften the decal, it becomes more prone to tearing.
@@BadmanOfBanterbury It helps to moisten the q-tip a bit so it doesn't stick to the softened transfer.
Your videos have inspired me to come out of my burn out stage and get painting again
Thats awesome news, happy painting 🙂
To slapchop I think it did the community a great deed because I now see A LOT more painted armies in the hobby stores. Back 10 years ago where it wasnt well known, everybody basically painted the CITADEL way and it took them ages to paint their armies with very mixed results depending on peoples skills. So you had a lot of non-painted, half-painted and horribly painted armies around. Now with the great rise of contrast paints, the quantity of adequately painted armies has skyrocketed drastically. And that makes our games more immersive and fun to play and for 95% of players, Slapchok looks pretty good too. Its just this UA-cam/Reddit bubble that really seems to fuzz over it a lot.
I much rather want to fight 10 people with adequately painted armys than 10 people of wich only 3 have fully painted armies with the rest beeing standart plastic gray or primed black.
For the decals; people can slightly cut the decal to allow the parts to settle better or use decal softer which wraps it to the curved surface
Nice video, I also like the slapchop method and contrast paints so its nice to see others also using it.
Use Microsol on the transfers, it slightly melts them letting them fit curved surfaces like the shoulderpads, also use microset to help position it.
I will second this, Micro Sol and Micro Set are a good investment when you get to applying transfers. You can also use a dry cotton bud to press down the transfer. A rolling motion will minimize the risk of tearing, smooth the creases, and wick up the liquid from the surface in one step.
Cheers for the tip, Im going to order some now as I have lots of marines to do so lots of transfers 🙂
Great video. Slap chop is easy to begin but has lots of potential. I like the dry brushing because it is a relatively simple process that’s fun to do even for beginners
Well,I stumbled across your channel a week ago and was intrigued by your methods.
I had Contrast paints and some Speed paints knocking around from an old project.
I had 40 LOTR Orcs to paint….
Safe to say this slapchop malarkey made the painting quick and stress free.
Completed the models in a day or so.
Varnished them up then out an enamel filter on them…job done.
Thanks for the videos and inspiration,made my painting backlog slimmer (but just a little bit!)
Hey thats awesome, from grey to tabletop ready in a jiffy, have fun with the rest of the grey stuff 🙂
I do the same method and I love the results aswell. Its such a satisfying way to paint and relax, great job on that mini!
I'm just about to start Blood Angels using slapchop and this video has helped reassure me the outcome is going to be amazing (obviously il be red not blue lol)
Awesome job and awesome video, thanks again :)
Thats great news, have fun and the red is gonna look awesome 🙂
Slap Chop is amazing. You can take extra time while preparing with drybrush and then gently add shade and layer some contrast paints to get amazing results. This technic has so much potential and will find more acceptance in future
You just need micro set to apply on the surface you want to put the decal, then a bit after application of the decal. Let it dry for a bit, roll a cotton ear bud very gently to sponge the remaining liquid.
Ive just brought some and look forward to trying it out 🙂
Bravo (again). Anything to help expand the accessibility to the hobby can't be bad. Rock on.
Exactly Alex, doesnt matter whats its called if its getting people into painting and enjoying the results 🙂
the thing about slap chop is there's nothing stopping you from going the extra mile and doing some highlighting and detail work with after the fact. but simply slapchopping looks every bit as good if not better than the traditional table ready 'base coat and a wash' method.
I am definitely a fan of the slap chop method. Has helped me to paint most of my orks over the last few weeks.
As someone with adhd I already fine time management difficult, and this speedy method to painting really helps.
Thats so good to hear 🙂
Ok, I thought that the slapchop method wouldn't work on power armor. This video totally proved that wrong! Great job and thank you for opening me up to new painting possibilities!
Yeah must admit I wasnt sure how it would come out but I am pleased 🙂
Looks awesome. Love slap chop . I do 50% speed and 50% traditional
Awesome, my plan is improve them at a later stage but for now I am very happy with them 🙂
Hum… I like this method. I will test it from France ☺️
This space marine is beautiful.
You can use neutra soul to soften the labels so that they will wrap-around the shoulder pads and lay smooth. Look for 2 part decal setting solution.
Ive just brought some microsol to help soften the decals, will be trying it tomorrow 🙂
Nice work. Get yourself some Micro-Sol (Tamiya) or Decal Softener (Vallejo) - melts the plastic of the decal so it conforms to the contours of the surface you’re applying it to without crinkling. I think there is another product - Micro Set (?) that stops the reaction and anchors it in place.
Cheers Peter, I have just brought some and cant wait to try it out on all the others 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist Not a problem. Can’t have wrinkly decals on the Emperor’s perfect children. :)
excellent video, once again. love your whole style and attitude about everything.
it is a nice start but i think u should add some edge highlighting
2 things to say about this . . . .
1. Awesome video and painting, the beauty shots at the end look like box art material. I'd be well chuffed with that outcome. Perfect
2. Use a cotton bud to move and press the transfer down.
All the best
Cheers, I now have a box of cotton buds 🙂
sponges help smooth the transfer out. micro set and sol might be worth looking at 👍🏻
Just brought some stuff and cant wait to get better at applying the decals 🙂
Nice, I've found painting guns with metalic 1st then adding speedpaint black for example gives better results & if you want a skuffed up weapons use a dry bristled brush over the speedpaint to show more metal 😉👍.
That sounds good, I might try that next time 🙂
slap chop is great, i use it as another method for different things along with traditional techniques. I think there is a lot of channels recently who focus on high end painting shitting on it recently. The hobby is fun and whatever way you enjoy it go for it!
Funny thing is that it is cool to see master painters do their thing, and that's great for them. This the rest of us can actually do with a good result.
@@nathangerardy2669 100 percent
Tottally agree, this is for us noobs so we can enjoy painting and the end results 🙂
Another excellent video for all us new to the hope. Keep up the excellent work
Thank you so much, happy painting 🙂
It helps if you cut the decal a bit in the middle (old decorator trick)
Ahh cheers, I have just brought some stuff that softens them so they bend lol 🙂
I do prefer the traditional method but this is a massive time saver when you work full time and have 2 kids I'm sticking to this from now on I think
I would love to see a video on how to drybrush as well as you are doing it. What kind of brush are you using? How much paint are you leaving on? I can't seem to get a good technique down.
I use the cheapest make up brushes I can find on amazon, I think it was £3.99 for 12 brushes lol, get as much paint of the brush as you can and take it slowly until you are happy with it 🙂
This method is everywhere!
Its making more people paint and enjoying the hobby so its a good thing 🙂
Looks great, and thats all that matters.
Looks good to me.... I think I might give mini painting a shot doing it this way
Great job as always :) honestly if you didn't mention it a I would never have known there was an issue with the transfer but I saw someone mentioned Micro Sol and Micro Set so those should definitely help you make the process easier. Always enjoying hearing how much your enjoying painting now too it's a fun part of the hobby and it's great to hear this method is what helps you enjoy it
Cheers, yup just got some micro sol, so will be trying that out soon 🙂
Looks great.
I'm going to try it on my orks. This weekend
I mean yeah, definitely looks good enough to put it down on the board for sure.
Looks good mate.
Personally I really enjoy seeing someone put out results they can be happy with.
Have a good one, plus your little fog/smoke machine is cool
Cheers buddy, yup Im having fun with the smoke machine 🙂
Great video! It was fun to watch. What black primer do you like? Also how did you clean up the shoulder pad when you got blue on it? Thanks!
Looks awesome! I love the slapchop!!!!
Me too its awesome 🙂
Awesome video thanks..
:D Awesome! Happy standard :D Love it! I am a big fan of Orks also. You sir are the "Slap Choppa!" haha.
Yup I said I loved what you said and was gonna use it 🙂
been trying this but cant quite get the blue to look as vibrant, i think i might not be applying enough white on the drybrush stage.
Is the blue speed paint thined down at all? I assume not but just wanted to be sure as I would like to try this ☺️
For the rhino you can convert it to a ork rhino and sell it if nothing else to make little back...
Haha that sounds like a great plan Susan 🙂
amazing! i wanna be that good someday
The gold that came with beginner kit looks more like brown. Which gold did you use?
I'm one of those that have been using the "Slop chop" method but since the speed paint from army painters and your vids, I've only become inspired to start again. Magic blue is the one I've been wanting for my Ultramarines. However, I've been using metallic colours to do mine. I use the decal liquids to put on transfers ti make it adhere and mould onto the shape properly. Then use matt varnish on them to blend into the rest of the paint job. PS: How can I send my old spruce to you?
Ahh so you could have told me about this 2 years ago when I started this channel 😛, Im pleased how the magic blue came out. Cheers for the offer of sprues but Ive got quite a lot at the moment but thanks 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist mate, your channel has been my
inspiration... LOL 😂
Looking at this as well but which black, grey and white did you use? Was it a primer black?
I gotta admit your slapchop turns out really good.
Thank you so much 🙂
Amazing. Can you also do a blood angel for me please?
How do you get the paint to look so smooth? Whenever I try it the paint looks so patchy/tie dye-y. I wonder if it's because I'm not dry brushing enough... Looks sweet tho.
What brushes do you use for the dry brushing? Great video love the results
Did you give this a wash like an oil wash or just use the speed paint?
Great looking model! Getting ready to paint my first Intercessors (salamanders successor so im going for Turqoise armor) and I’m curious, what brushes do you like using? And how much paint do you usually get on the brush?
You can use progressively brighter silver paints and get a similar result to slap chop but it's also sort of metallic
Oh cool 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist I painted some Khorne Berzerkers with a black prime and silver dry brushes and then Blood Angel's red contrast on top. Looks really good
So many people saying this method doesn't work on flat surfaces...but I think you just proved otherwise. if you can avoid the pooling it sure looks pretty good to me.
I will slap chop anything on my desk lol so Im sure it will work with everything 🙂
It'll work for dreadnoughts or tanks with more flat surfaces?
Kinda. Honestly it often looks pretty stained / scratchy over big panels unless you're very skilled
Are you planning on trying the slap chop method on other types of models? Happy little heretic hoping for some CSM attempts. Do you think it would work on vehicles?
Love the videos as always keep up the good work
Im gonna slap chop everything lol, I did a tank a few days ago 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist Wonderful! Haha I was told that I was mad for wanting to use speed paints/contrasts on vehicles or warmachines such as a forge fiend or a hell Drake, and I want to prove them wrong! And I think you've provided me with the means
Looks really good, do you give a coat of varnish to finish them off and to stop skin oils etc wearing off any paint ?
Cheers, I havent in the past but will now as I think the decals would rub off either wise lol 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist MIni's being handled should always be given a coat of varnish to protect them, matte I find the best as it seems to bring out the detail better, some used to gloss first first then matte. Always varnish mine to protect them and mine are just going in a show case. Varnishing seems to have been forgotten over time and is hardly ever spoken about buy any painters online which I feel is a bad thing.
How’d you get the speed paint to go on so smooth? I tried this and it’s all blotchy
same here
do you just use regular 'base' paints and water them down a lot more?
Extra-thin tamiya cement? A man of culture, I see.
It's great. I would have put in another 5 minutes and painted the vents on the backpack and big plate in bronze for example.
Cheers, Ive not painted marines before and not sure how the back looked, I was going by the pic on the box lol 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist no worries. Looks great either way :)
Do you thin speedpaints when doing slapchop?
How did you paint the eye sockets?
Great video, thanks a lot! How would you manage this technique with minis with lot of metallic surfaces such as necrons?
Cheers, not too sure to be honest, when I do silver on ork weapons I do a light brown wash over the top 🙂
Love the 40K chess set idea
Where did you get the squares for the board??
3D printed, once I have done all the chess pieces I will do a video showing how the board was made 🙂
Your painting is improving so fast
Thank you so much, I think its because I am enjoying it now 🙂
Slap Chop is better on highly textured models. I enjoyed it recently on Wracks and Mandrakes models. Probably slightly less so on marines. Normal airbrush is kinda better.
But this approach is definately making into the arsenal. Great for painting flesh, cloth etc.
Seen the other comments so will only add - there is an excellent video on Micro-set / Micro-Sol on Sonic Sledgehammer Studio - only 11 minutes to watch and it will change your whole approach to applying decals.
Ahh I will take a look as I now have micro sol 🙂
Slap chop is such a fun name
and a great result 🙂
Hello! I'm a newbie. I know this is kinda a silly question but do I really have to own contrast paints and the acrylic inks to use this deadly slap chop technique?
I'm glad you did a SM, I've been curious to see what kind of result you could get with the slap chop method. Looks great! I'm not even sure why there is any kind of debate about a painting technique. If it makes you excited about painting, I say screw 'em. :)
Exactly, its all about getting that grey painted and being happy with it 🙂
what dry brushes do you use?
Would love a slapchop gor dark angels
If its on my desk it get slap chopped lol 🙂
Yes ot is!
It certainly is 🙂
"Never had the confidence in painting" - cuts to shot of about 150/200 paints 00:23 😂
Don't underestimate yourself, and thanks for this video, it was perfect.
FINE! YOU'VE CONVINCED ME! :: Opens up browser to buy speed paints... :: 😆
Yay, welcome to the dark side 🙂
I thought I look good and contrast paints not as good for a lot flat so fact still turned out good
It's a neat style, especially since it's an actual artist technique (Grisaille) that was just given a dopey name. It's a tool, not a silver bullet. The big thing I feel it has though is a unique look, which is good if you are fine with that but it gives the model away as being done with this style. Not saying that's a bad thing, but it's like people who airbrush everything: You can immediately tell how they painted it.
I always struggle with the zenithal part, even when drybrushing. It never looks as good as I see in videos.
"good enough" is always subjective ... before it was ever called "slap chop" I used heavy dry brushing prior to painting my miniatures for structural emphasis using basic acrylics in a thinned form, rely on it even more with the availability of contrast paints/speed paints etc.
Yup beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so if you are happy with the result thats all that matters 🙂
I like the Slap Chop method. I see it has another tool I can use in my arsenal to painting miniatures. Is the slap chop method perfect? No....but did you spend 3 to 6 hours painting highlights to make it perfect? No. With slap chop you only need 15 to 20 minutes to have a table ready minature that looks pretty good and you can add highlights later if you want to give it that extra pop.
ironically, the GW ultramarine contrast paint is waaaaaay too dark to work for ultramarines
Haha, I am very please with the magic blue speedpaint, it lives up to its name lol 🙂
I could not agree more with you on this idea.
I have painted well over a 2000 minis and most of this was using simple methods along these lines, even before speed paints where a thing.
What critics of such methods fail to address is that if you go and do detailed work on your army this will take a long time.
For example: Say you want to paint up an army of 100 models, and decide to paint them to a certain standard spending an average of 2 hours per model.
This is 200 working hours.
If you paint 2 hours every 3 days (as you have a life). That is 300 days. In almost a year, your army will be complete.
On the other hand, with this approach (20 min per model, 5 models per hour )that same army would be done :
20 min per model, 5 models per hour = 10 models each 3rd day.
100 models in a month.
Unpopular opinion here:
People might say this is sub par, yet those very same people, once you see them at a club are playing gray legion.
Exactly, I am happy with how they look and if I ever get to a stage where I can do edge highlighting and layering and any of stuff then I can revisit these models and improve them 🙂
@@MiniatureHobbyist
BTW, I have achieved slightly better results with an airbrush. I took a cheap Chinese Badger knock off,we are talking 70 GBP with a compressor here.
I realize that the point of the video is to show everyone they CAN paint their models and be happy while doing it.
Have you considered using a satin varnish to finish the models off?
I feel the semi glossy finish would make them look even better and protect the paintjob . That would take a minute per model?
I personally love the slap chop method! It looks great and anyone can do it. But who cares what other people think? You paid for the minis so you do with them what you want
Works great for me, I've got barely any free time
For 100 guard, heck yea. For my never gonna happen Golden demon entry then no. It is just another useful tool in our hobby kit.
All the argument about what kind of painting is acceptable baffles me. Underpainting, Slap Chop whatever you want to call it it's just another tool in the Box. I find it particularly useful for painting metallics but for the most part I dry brush. The important thing is that whoever is painting their mini is Happy on how it turns out.
Exactly buddy, do what feels good for you 🙂
Why dose he only have one shoulder pad
I did this 30 years ago 😏 😂
The short answer is, yes but only if you like it. And no, if you don't like it. I think...👍
There's been a lot of sour grapes about the traction your "slap chop" thing as been getting. Let them enjoy those sour grapes. Good luck to you!
Use 'em to make a nice glass of whine! 😜
Cheers buddy, appreciate that 🙂