Brushes used in this video (shipping worldwide): store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing Happy New Year! Give us your suggestions, comments, and criticisms! There's THREE SETS up for grabs for the best ones :) Want to be taught by Artis Opus & Byron in person? We're teaching at the Las Vegas Open: store.frontlinegaming.org/collections/lvo-2024/products/8377773457640-lvo-2024-painting-class-fundamentals-incredible-drybrushing-osl
Happy New Year AO team and thanks for the video! I am eagerly picking up my AO set today and can't wait to start using them (especially Series D). Unfortunately, I saw that I will pay around 30€ of customs costs, because most of the German retailers did not have anything in stock and I was probably too impatient. Are there any plans to increase shipment to Germany ... and to make some "partnered" sets, like example Fauxhammer's available here, too?
Hi Byron, I'm new to the Hobby and have been watching a lot of content from your channel. Thanks for the great content by the way. I just wanted to say I had some trouble with the store. The series D drybrushes took over a month to get to me and I'm in the UK. The online store manager was very apologetic and dealt with it brilliantly, so i don't have any complaints with that. If I'm being honest the whole process took a lot longer than expected, I didn't get a confirmation other than a text message and didnt receive a single shipping / dispatch date or update in the whole process without chasing. Hopefully this is something maybe you guys could look into. Cheers
Hi, Byron and AO team! Happy New Year! I loved this video! Do you still recommend painting faces the way/ways you did in the video from 3 years ago, or are there new, better/simpler techniques? I've tried slapchop on faces and it never quite ends up right...
Great paint skills but as far as businesses go @ArtisOpus is as bad as it gets. Tried to order a set of brushes/texture pad but they couldn't even fulfill the order. Find your supplies elsewhere. Sad that I can't support artists because they can't get their business together. Don't waste your time ordering from them.
Hey just want to say that you saved my hobby experience. I have anxiety issues and stuff like keeping my hands level is tough sometimes and painting minis the typical way was often times very disheartening. But your channel and Drybrush content showed me another way to do it and i'm now making steady progress on my Salamander army. Dry brushing most of them and applying contrast or glazes when needed is such a more calming and enjoyable experience and it reinvigorated my love for the hobby
I like to prime my marines black, then stipple 95% of it with Gunmetal Black, then 50% with a dark-ish silver, then dry brush the highlights with a nice, bright silver. Now if you put Contrast on top of it, it will have a lovely metallic sheen with all the speed/benefit of Slap-chop. Works on vehicles too.
I’d love to see more examples of using non white-grey-black colors in slapchop, and more exploration of how this affects the colors of the final model. Great video, thank you!
I'm glad you covered priming in non-black colors, because I think it saves a lot of time and adds more cohesion! I'm lazy, so I usually just buy a lot of black primer and prime multiple pieces at once in all black, and then later "tint" them from below with a blue/purple/etc color. I usually pick the same tint per boardgame/squad, so that they all have the same feel on the table! On nearly the same note, another thing I don't see covered much in underpainting/slapchop is OSL. I do a lot of Kingdom Death, and most of the minis each have a lantern for OSL, so I always use the airbrush to lighten up from that area, after tinting and zenithals. I would love to see a KDM mini slapchop with OSL and tinting, to compare to my flow! Happy new year!
love your work and your channel I'm a newish mini painter last time I was painting D&D mini's back in the 80's when I was a Teen so much has changed and loving all the new tips and tricks that are out there now great hobby having a blast video's like this really help out the newbies and us old vets getting reacquainted with it
A welcome return to slapchop! Great video man. Recently I've been using multiple hues in my underpainting and it makes for way more interesting shadow colours. My go-to method is to airbrush purple from below towards the front of the model, blue from behind and below them a pale pink as a zenithal. A final drybrush of white to pick out details then speedpaints and final highlights.
@@ArtisOpus Yes! A video dedicated to airbrushing would be awesome, I was gifted an old airbrush just before Christmas and have been learning the ropes. Loving it so far. Keep up the good work Brother!
@@ArtisOpus Yes! A video dedicated to airbrushing would be awesome, I was gifted an old airbrush just before Christmas and have been learning the ropes. Loving it so far. Keep up the good work Brother!
I got back into this hobby a year ago. I’ve been watching your videos and experimenting with dry brush and contrast. Incorporating the dampening pad has been huge. I don’t think I really understood how effective it was until I used it. I recently added a series S brush and 🤯, another powerful tool I didn’t understand until I used it. My accuracy and control has improved significantly. Both your brush sets are on my wish list.
I really appreciate the format of your videos, by giving the important info upfront for easy reference and then a full example, explaining all you are doing. These are incredibly helpful and easy to follow!
Hey Guys, love your videos! Thank you for teaching me how drybrushing actually works! I did experiment a lot with my Blood Angels and I find that I get the nicest results (and closest to the official scheme) with a brown basecoat followed by a drybrush with a bone Color (ushabiti bone), then ivory (wraithbone) and just a little bit of pure white on the sharpest edges. I like Blood Angels Red best over this kind of basecoat. Depending on how grimdark or not you like your red you can variate the drybrush colours. Go darker or even brighter with more pure white at the end. Personally I like my metal areas better with contrast paints over metal paints. I like to use a dark silver followed by a very bright silver as a drybrush or edge highlight on all metals. After that transparent paints depending on the kind of metal. Iyanden for bright gold, black Templar for silver, snakebite leather for bronze etc. Happy new year!
Thanks for YOUR input. 😄 This kind of drybrushing completely changed my way of painting. Simply the best mix of speed and quality. And regarding the colour red: it is really difficult to achieve such a strong and vivid red using the „classic“ approach.
With your insane dry brushing skills, I would LOVE to see a 3 or more levels video, on taking Slapchop to higher and higher levels. Like - Level "Table ready", Level "Display Ready, and Level "Freak your friends out" - And please keep any mistakes and how you fix them in - that is SOOO helpful. Doing better dry brushing, using stippling to fake airbrushing fades, etc., and go all the way to adding edge highlighting. - Please, make us the ULTIMATE "Dominate Slapchop Level by Level Guide" 👍
My suggestion, comes from one of your videos actually, u painted a Dark Angel and was my first really aprouch to dry brush, and in the video u used purple as a shadow undercoat, now a days i use the same but in areas where would be warmer light or reflection i use the same tone in oposite color so i have a warmer background to beggin with, after that i do suggest to mix your paints, try and error in a leg or armor laying arround and use the contrast medium to do our own contrasts for that reggiment, in my DA i mix callibangreen with express purple and a bit of express medium so i can do a thin layer of contrast, the i did drybrush with a little bit of calliban in lighter areas, then a mix with moot green an calliban for the hight lights. They stayed in a DA theme and a bit grimish but not equal to normal contrast dry bush with sample coulors, so even if i do a match with anothe DA player we will see the diference on the table
I love these videos, while it is a dry brushing technique is easy to get the basics, it’s quite interesting to keep improving at something that’s so simple but has such a trick to learning it. I used to use a paper towel and such. Never realized how wrong I was and how much paint I was wasting and how much time in general I was spending just trying to hammer paint on a surface lol. Can’t express how wonderful this all has been learning from you and seeing how you do things. My wife bought me some of the artis opus brushes for Christmas, it was just a nice present since i just asked for some mediocre dry brushes, she took it to the next step. Been so fun painting with them. Keep slaying it! So so very wonderful!
Everytime I watch your videos I am captivating by the models behind you! I love the striking two colour models and would love a video around creating striking but simplified paint designs, especially with how complex some minis are becoming!
It would be great to hear more of your thoughts on basecoat colours, with comparisons of how different colours affect the final model. Maybe some comparisons on the same model painted with different colour combinations, and some thoughts on how you choose the colours - I didn't expect to see purple -> orange - red!
i really only use contrast paints as like a base paint because most of the time you can get a nice gradient then work your normal painting in on that. you can also kinda use it like a fake zenithal highlight by tilting the mini to point the way you want the "sun" to be. all the contrast will pool at the lowest point leaving the upwards facing spots lighter and you can go from there. i will also use different base colors to give myself deeper shades. like my terminator captain from the leviathan box. i painted the cape blue then zenithal highlighted with white so when i lay the red contrast it makes this deep purple in the fold while keeping the nice red of the highlight. i will also use dry brushing if i WANT the rough texture like on cloth and such.
@@ArtisOpus honestly I’m still trying to figure the best method out. I like to dry brush the white for edge highlights but I then feel like I don’t get enough dry brushing on the spots that didn’t get the zenithil. I’m still learning a ton though.
on minis with lots of metallics varnishing with a satin varnish once all base contrasts and metallics are on . I use light glazes of contrast and washes to adjust the amount of gloss on cloth and armors before starting on highlighting. So you keep a good level of shine on the metallics without having to do full recoats that a more matt protective coat requires.
I am still quite new to the hobby and your videos def helped me out quite a bit. One thing i think you could go in to more is having confident and being open to start out bad and getting better and better. With my carnifex once i managed to put my anxiety away and just start highlighting i was so happy how it just worked suddenly!
Loved the vid as always. Recommendation: make yourself an oat milk latte and watch this video with Byron's golden voice, it'll totally mellow you out and your mini painting will be so much better
I’m hoping to start doing Horus Heresy soon, I’m thinking about doing thousand sons so I’m thinking about starting with a good base coat and dry brush over lighter golds and silvers before applying a red contrast over the gold with the silver dry brush. But I will play with it
Hi Artis Opus, very nice video - as always! I'd also like to see a video about defferent methods and colour schemes for different skin colours. Keep up the nice work and cheers!
I suggest you to present a video that explain the main type and dimension of brushes for contrast paint, because I’have a lot of problem to load correctly small brush when I use contrast paint. Thanks. And thank you for your video.
Hey Byron, would love to see some more NMM using your style of painting. Maybe a few different kinds of metals. I tend to dry brush more myself so it would be awesome to see more examples of what can be done.
I'd love to see a dreadnaught in this style. I have attempted it, but the flat panels never look quite right. I know you mentioned that you try to think of your drybrush colors in the sense of how warm/cool your end result is, but would you be able to expand on that? Maybe something showing the same contrast paints over different drybrush paints to really show the impact of changing those base colors. Your videos are the reason I enjoy painting rather than it being a chore before I can play the game. Keep it up!
Happy New Year for 2024!🎉 Those are useful tips for painting contrast over Space Marines, I had a bit of bad experience when I first tried it on one model. They're mostly useful for smaller details and fur surfaces. This would help me explore more on contrast, thank you!
Great video happy new year, I find using a dowel with a lump of white tac to hold the head is better for painting it rather than using a paperclip but thats just me.
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if you could do a video on how you would tackle hard-to-reach areas? Mores specifically, when the model's weapon and/or arms are blocking their chest. Seems most videos I watch on UA-cam skip that step, and as a newbie painter, I would love to see how professionals go about this.
I would like to see a video on brush care and selection. I’m a new painter and have not taken the plunge on buying expensive brushes, but I’m starting that cheap brushes may not be the answer.
One thing that I have used as a tip, is not the same colors of grey or white in certain areas. if you can use darker or lighter of those colors in certain areas of the mini it will give you the same effect but a different shade of the color. I used this on some minis for Star Wars and it looked amazing.
Thanks for sharing all these tips. My suggestion would be to undercoat in a red colour and darken it down with a wash/nuln oil and then build up the orange.
Great videos and i have learned a ton from your guides, i have been looking for guides on techniques, but i feel that there are very few that give information on all the different names given to paints and why /what they are used for and if you can makes these with just adding flow/thinner/etc to normal acryllics?
As always brilliant video full of useful tips. I would add a small tutorial on how to complement contrasts with normal acrylics. I, in general, use contrasts as base colours. I found that even if you use 2 coats paint eventually is blotchy/spotty on the mini. What I started doing is covering it with a lighter version of same colour using acrylics. This way transitions between colours is smoother. But this is the way I do this. Would love to see how you would approach it.
Loved this. I’ve always tended to dry brush the end of the “heat damage metal” with abaddon black as it tends to look really matte and give the impression of soot and grime. Really enjoyed this video Byron. Such a calming start to the new year. Some superb tips. 🤟🏼
Hey! Thx for the wonderful video! I started this hobby recently and your dry brush tutorials really helped me a lot~ I have 2 questions in my mind, 1st is how to properly clean the dry brush (I just rinse and rub them in brush soaps like usual brushes after I finished painting, but how to clean them in between different colors while keeping them dry? Should I just brush them on texture palette to remove paints?) My second question is that for space marine holding heavy weapons (like volkite) how do you reach places like behind the gun and under the arms without taking arms as sub assembly?
Im just getting started, I would love a slop chop for absolute beginners. Something like "the very essentials and basics you need to do your first 3 minis" or something like that. The appeal of the technique to people like me is that it now seems possible to do almost decent looking minis without hundreds of hours invested.
Awesome video. The tips a bout thinning down the contrast is so true. My tip would always do a test model or tests your colors on a texture palette. As contrast paint tend to behave, and look, quite differently, when applying them. Getting a feel for the shade of contrast one is going to use, fore applying them to your model is crucial.
Love your vids! I’d really like to see your take on using this slap chop method for white or off white armour as an addition to your White Scars video. I am about to start a Genestealer Cult of the Rusted Claw army soon and am looking for more inspiration.
My suggestion as a noobie to painting is how-to actually use contrast paint because i just learned the hard way that you dont just paint it on lol 😅 i may have just made it a really dark ultramarine blue😂
Happy new year, I'd love to see non metallic metal (NMN) with dry-brushing, it's definitely something that I find challenging to do and anyway to make it easier id love to see, or even true metallic with dry brushing would be good
I would love to see a Tyranid Skin and Shell drybrush tutorial further techniques for Slapchop and how you would approach the bigger carapace plates. This video has helped a lot but it's easier for me to mimic than try and figure it out as I'm basically blind to seeing what you and others do/talk about when it comes to identifying areas.
I was wondering if when the army painter fanatic line comes out if you could do a side by side with the Citadel colors and contrast vs the army painter fanatic and speedpaint 2.0. I am sorry, that may be too much of an investment as the complete set is $769 or something close, but I would like to see how the coverage is, especially vs the high price of Citadel.
Hey buddy, there's a big difference in price in the US isn't there? Shocked.me when I first heard it. I am not a fan of triads, so slightly skeptical of the 6s thing personally, if you and your buddy both paint green skins are they going to look the same, no matter which paints you use? Been going through my head 😅
@@ArtisOpus yeah might be the case, I know they are really stepping up their pigments and stabilizers. I also tend to mix my paints so probably won't have the same color. As far as pricing, Citadel runs at 4.60 per pot for the cheapest and up to 14 per pot for certain shades and washes. The new fanatic line is more expensive than the old line but if you buy singles are still only 4.25 at most and if you buy in a kit can be as low as 3.50 per paint. I also am not sold on the triads, but if I am getting them in a kit and mixing it just becomes another option for how much saturation I want to blend in.
Hello, one thing I'm not sure about, and I'm not sure if you have covered it before and if so, where.. That is, how does the back/under colour really impact the colour you're then dry brushing over and then applying your paint. Like the whole "prepping the model" with the primer/colour etc.. BEFORE you start putting your actual paint on.
I’m still learning drybrushing (currently with Tyranids) with some basic makeup brushes and often get a powdery look, if that makes sense. It would be great to see a summary of common mistakes (or do’s and don’t’s) for drybrush fundamentals? For instance, a recent video you made a passing remark to not use paper towel to brush off excess and I was wondering why…..
Just started painting again, trying to teach my kid to paint. Last time I painted the models were made of metal so it's been a while, your videoes are a great help. That handle looks really great, hope it available soon. You may have covered it en earlier videoes but I find colours like yellows and white really hard when it's larger surfaces like armour. Yellow pigments seem very "weak" and whites I get those too thick layers, so that would be my suggestion. Anywho, happy new year, thx for the great content 🙂
I'd love to see a slapchop video featuring Orks or Orruks, whichever is your preference as it would be good to see how you approached the flesh tones on an infantry sized miniature. I'd also like to see how you may do things differently if you incorporated true metallic acrylics instead of approximating NMM with Contrast paints. The Series D brushes really do look like the best tool for dry-brushing out there, although for me the item I'm most interested in getting is the texture palette. Do you use the regular size palette in your videos or the XL one?
Byron, I truly enjoy watching your videos as I feel like I learn something new with each video. One of the biggest things I struggle with is that I don’t use contrast/speed paints. Could you do this same process with Pro Acyrl, AK Interactive and other paint lines? If so what would the steps be and/or how different will it be?
Happy new year 🎉, great video. I'd like to see variations of colors other than black/gray/white/brown on zenithal highlights on how they work with the final results.
I really appreciated seeing colors used other than black/white/grey. I always wondered why you wouldn't start introducing tones into the piece sooner. I've been using dark purple and dark blue instead of black, with good results, on the theory that when I shade I never shade with pure black so why would I start slapchop with pure black? My suggestion is tip 6 = practice practice practice, because brush control only comes with practice. You can't just watch videos and magically know when your brush is ready to hit the model. I use the armies left over from box sets I bought for the terrain as my practice dummies. Could you please do a video on how to "season" the texture pad? Thank you for all of the lessons!
Another great tutorial , I’ve just painted the legions imperialis baneblade using your method and series D , small and medium brushes . I’m so pleased with the out come . But I would like something on how to use colours that complement , like how you used black undercoat , then purple and then Lugganath orange . I never seem to pick the right colours for it to work 🤷🏻♀️
So new painter here. Stippling seems to be used a lot by certain channels. However, they all don’t usually explain the consistency of their paints and how that changes their outcome. Trovarion doesn’t water his paint down for his grim dark approach. Richard Gray heavily waters down his paint before stippling. Can you explain why you take the approach you do and how it affects the outcome? Hopefully that makes sense.
I'd like to see how to use color combinations with various non-black basecoats to create different effects. More examples of different types of models would also be great to have!
I have heard many people don't like dry brushing because it can leave streaky lines on the model. But why do then not use a thin layer (thin glaze) to cover and bring forth the vibrancy of the color. (Then they will never know) I really like the heat build up.
Maybe not a follow up video but one for maybe me as a complete beginner. When and how what is the thought process in choosing the best method for miniature and above painting. Ie when best to dry brush or slapchop and why??
Happy New Year Byron, great video thanks, I was given the Phobus kill team at Christmas so this will definitely help. thinking of doing them in the Raptor's paint scheme so hopefully, I'll be able to switch the colors to suit.
I have been trying to apply your dry brush techniques to Catalyst Game Labs Battletech miniatures. To me they seem to be a cross between Space Marines and Vehicles, but I don't seem to be getting the same results. Maybe an example video on a Battletech miniature would be nice.
Can you talk about mixing and diluting paints to imitate contrast paints?. I have a couple of packs of base paint and no contrast and trying to figure it out as a new painter is difficult.
My suggestion, after dry brushing and shade/contrast, it’s a good idea to brush the model again. This will brighten the model back up and give some easy highlights. This works amazingly with true metallics
Could you do a video cover how best to do pale greens and blues but still being able to give depth even though it’s pale, not sure if that makes sense, How to do it with the drybrushes aswell,
Hey buddy :). Good suggestion, it's something we have covered if not specifically in the past in some videos: 1.) Start from blueish or another mixed green and transition (very good cheat) 2.) Use satin to suggest depth I want to do some more on this type of stuff, I will hold this question in mind!
@@ArtisOpus brilliant that would be awesome if you covered it in another video, I’ve watched the past ones but I always seem to too dark to get the depth and it looks too harsh when I then try to do the highlights again to make it brighter
Man, painting videos where the majority is showing NOT the model are really annoying... there is almost NO reason at all to not show the mini/painting all the time.
I'd love to see how you would go about painting a glass effect on an opaque surface, especially something curved like a cockpit canopy. With the rise of 3d printing (and the difficulty of printing decent transparent components), I think that a lot of people would find this useful, both for terrain and vehicles.
Also, happy new year. Hope to see a lot more of your content in 2024. I managed to finally get my hand on your series S 0, 1 and two. It’s really hard to find places where they sell them here. The series D is impossible to find 😢 hope I can get my hands on them soon.
@@ArtisOpus Based in Denmark. I know one store but always sold out and not always very customer friendly. Also they always push prices to the limit where it’s the same as GW stores or almost 50 more expensive than alternatives on paints. I’m just not sure how all the mess with import tax and duties are handled after your lovely country decided to exit EU.
I think the only thing I was really curious to hear more about (and it was probably only briefly mentioned because you cover it elsewhere) pertains to wet blending. Are there certain paint lines or even individual colors this technique is easier to use with? How much time do you have before one color dries and sets? How much impact does what medium you use (if any), and the ratio of paint to medium, have on drying time? How big a deal is reactivation even with contrast paints? I also saw a blurb on someone else's Instagram today about contrast vs shade. Dunno if these are complicated enough to justify their own video or not, just a few thoughts from someone who hasn't really gotten back into the hobby yet but has taken a deep dive on UA-cam tutorials in the past year.
I have recently started painting the Wolfspear, as they have a light grey armour, i would love to see your take on slap chop for lighter colours if possible?
It's Biostrip :) elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/biostrip-20 We did a video on it a while back, it's great, and this is still my original tub (1litre): ua-cam.com/video/BVnN36OzhlA/v-deo.html
Just starting out. If I don't have access to legitimate contrast paint, would I be able to thin down (with water) some of the GW base paints. I have some ultramarines and I'm wondering if I could water down some macragge blue?
Hey buddy, not really, you'd be making a glaze there, you could buy some contrast medium (contrast, without the colour) and use that. Genuinely though it's worth picking up a few of the contrasts, 4-5 of the good ones in colours you like will get you a very long way. I have far too many, and I use only about 10 of them 🙄
@@ArtisOpus Presumably similar. They tout that it can provide a great base to produce the deepest contrasts for minis and bases. ua-cam.com/video/jiuTszfAmNw/v-deo.htmlsi=mKBe3ycglYfzV2Qr
Id love to see your approach to painting armies, as opposed to individual miniatures - how to take these techniques, and apply them at scale. Perhaps with methods of where to step off? I.e. How to get it to battle ready and on the table, and then how to elevate the paint scheme.
Some questions and suggestions from me I have seen that wetblending is a way to get contrasts when using standard paint. Can you also use wetblending with contrast paints? Also I tried slapchopping a nemesis dreadknight, but it came out horribly. Lots of people seem to have difficulty with slappchopping models with bigger flat surfaces. Could you do a tutorial on how you would approach a model like this? Thanks for all the videos! I am learning so much from you❤
Brushes used in this video (shipping worldwide): store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing
Happy New Year! Give us your suggestions, comments, and criticisms! There's THREE SETS up for grabs for the best ones :)
Want to be taught by Artis Opus & Byron in person? We're teaching at the Las Vegas Open: store.frontlinegaming.org/collections/lvo-2024/products/8377773457640-lvo-2024-painting-class-fundamentals-incredible-drybrushing-osl
Happy New Year AO team and thanks for the video! I am eagerly picking up my AO set today and can't wait to start using them (especially Series D). Unfortunately, I saw that I will pay around 30€ of customs costs, because most of the German retailers did not have anything in stock and I was probably too impatient. Are there any plans to increase shipment to Germany ... and to make some "partnered" sets, like example Fauxhammer's available here, too?
Hi Byron, I'm new to the Hobby and have been watching a lot of content from your channel. Thanks for the great content by the way. I just wanted to say I had some trouble with the store. The series D drybrushes took over a month to get to me and I'm in the UK. The online store manager was very apologetic and dealt with it brilliantly, so i don't have any complaints with that. If I'm being honest the whole process took a lot longer than expected, I didn't get a confirmation other than a text message and didnt receive a single shipping / dispatch date or update in the whole process without chasing. Hopefully this is something maybe you guys could look into. Cheers
Hi, Byron and AO team! Happy New Year! I loved this video! Do you still recommend painting faces the way/ways you did in the video from 3 years ago, or are there new, better/simpler techniques? I've tried slapchop on faces and it never quite ends up right...
Great paint skills but as far as businesses go @ArtisOpus is as bad as it gets. Tried to order a set of brushes/texture pad but they couldn't even fulfill the order. Find your supplies elsewhere. Sad that I can't support artists because they can't get their business together. Don't waste your time ordering from them.
Hey just want to say that you saved my hobby experience. I have anxiety issues and stuff like keeping my hands level is tough sometimes and painting minis the typical way was often times very disheartening. But your channel and Drybrush content showed me another way to do it and i'm now making steady progress on my Salamander army.
Dry brushing most of them and applying contrast or glazes when needed is such a more calming and enjoyable experience and it reinvigorated my love for the hobby
I like to prime my marines black, then stipple 95% of it with Gunmetal Black, then 50% with a dark-ish silver, then dry brush the highlights with a nice, bright silver. Now if you put Contrast on top of it, it will have a lovely metallic sheen with all the speed/benefit of Slap-chop. Works on vehicles too.
Nice man! We tried out a metallic ultramarine this way, especially IRL I think it looks great!
@@ArtisOpus Great minds etc. 😉
WELP IM STEALING THAT.
@@ArtisOpusthe IRL so true, currently painting Alpha Legion for LI - camera just doesn't do the justice vs. in person
This could be so fire for alpha legion
I’d love to see more examples of using non white-grey-black colors in slapchop, and more exploration of how this affects the colors of the final model. Great video, thank you!
This has been asked a couple of times, consider us now considering!
That’s a great idea
Yes please!
I used a lighter purple when I painted my pink horrors and I think make the color look better then just going with black and white
Since contrast/speed paints are staining the plastic, it will either tint the precious layer or smother it. 🤷🏻♂️
I'm glad you covered priming in non-black colors, because I think it saves a lot of time and adds more cohesion!
I'm lazy, so I usually just buy a lot of black primer and prime multiple pieces at once in all black, and then later "tint" them from below with a blue/purple/etc color. I usually pick the same tint per boardgame/squad, so that they all have the same feel on the table!
On nearly the same note, another thing I don't see covered much in underpainting/slapchop is OSL. I do a lot of Kingdom Death, and most of the minis each have a lantern for OSL, so I always use the airbrush to lighten up from that area, after tinting and zenithals.
I would love to see a KDM mini slapchop with OSL and tinting, to compare to my flow! Happy new year!
love your work and your channel I'm a newish mini painter last time I was painting D&D mini's back in the 80's when I was a Teen so much has changed and loving all the new tips and tricks that are out there now great hobby having a blast video's like this really help out the newbies and us old vets getting reacquainted with it
A welcome return to slapchop! Great video man. Recently I've been using multiple hues in my underpainting and it makes for way more interesting shadow colours. My go-to method is to airbrush purple from below towards the front of the model, blue from behind and below them a pale pink as a zenithal. A final drybrush of white to pick out details then speedpaints and final highlights.
Verrryyy interesting, I love the pale pink and then yellow contrast over, I should play more with this. Maybe time to crack the airbrush out!
@@ArtisOpus Yes! A video dedicated to airbrushing would be awesome, I was gifted an old airbrush just before Christmas and have been learning the ropes. Loving it so far. Keep up the good work Brother!
@@ArtisOpus Yes! A video dedicated to airbrushing would be awesome, I was gifted an old airbrush just before Christmas and have been learning the ropes. Loving it so far. Keep up the good work Brother!
I got back into this hobby a year ago. I’ve been watching your videos and experimenting with dry brush and contrast.
Incorporating the dampening pad has been huge. I don’t think I really understood how effective it was until I used it.
I recently added a series S brush and 🤯, another powerful tool I didn’t understand until I used it. My accuracy and control has improved significantly.
Both your brush sets are on my wish list.
Second time I'm watching this video to soak everything in. I really love these contrast lessons!
I really appreciate the format of your videos, by giving the important info upfront for easy reference and then a full example, explaining all you are doing. These are incredibly helpful and easy to follow!
My suggestion would be a video about potential different pre shade colour combos for the final contrast colour and what would work the best
Great suggestion! This is definitely something we need to think about packaging up nicely so people can digest it
Hey Guys, love your videos! Thank you for teaching me how drybrushing actually works!
I did experiment a lot with my Blood Angels and I find that I get the nicest results (and closest to the official scheme) with a brown basecoat followed by a drybrush with a bone Color (ushabiti bone), then ivory (wraithbone) and just a little bit of pure white on the sharpest edges. I like Blood Angels Red best over this kind of basecoat. Depending on how grimdark or not you like your red you can variate the drybrush colours. Go darker or even brighter with more pure white at the end. Personally I like my metal areas better with contrast paints over metal paints. I like to use a dark silver followed by a very bright silver as a drybrush or edge highlight on all metals. After that transparent paints depending on the kind of metal. Iyanden for bright gold, black Templar for silver, snakebite leather for bronze etc.
Happy new year!
I can absolutely see this working, our bloodthirster went from word bearers red and it worked super well. Thanks for all of the input buddy!
Thanks for YOUR input. 😄 This kind of drybrushing completely changed my way of painting. Simply the best mix of speed and quality. And regarding the colour red: it is really difficult to achieve such a strong and vivid red using the „classic“ approach.
With your insane dry brushing skills, I would LOVE to see a 3 or more levels video, on taking Slapchop to higher and higher levels.
Like - Level "Table ready", Level "Display Ready, and Level "Freak your friends out" - And please keep any mistakes and how you fix them in - that is SOOO helpful.
Doing better dry brushing, using stippling to fake airbrushing fades, etc., and go all the way to adding edge highlighting.
- Please, make us the ULTIMATE "Dominate Slapchop Level by Level Guide" 👍
My suggestion, comes from one of your videos actually, u painted a Dark Angel and was my first really aprouch to dry brush, and in the video u used purple as a shadow undercoat, now a days i use the same but in areas where would be warmer light or reflection i use the same tone in oposite color so i have a warmer background to beggin with, after that i do suggest to mix your paints, try and error in a leg or armor laying arround and use the contrast medium to do our own contrasts for that reggiment, in my DA i mix callibangreen with express purple and a bit of express medium so i can do a thin layer of contrast, the i did drybrush with a little bit of calliban in lighter areas, then a mix with moot green an calliban for the hight lights. They stayed in a DA theme and a bit grimish but not equal to normal contrast dry bush with sample coulors, so even if i do a match with anothe DA player we will see the diference on the table
@ArtisOpus This was the First
I love these videos, while it is a dry brushing technique is easy to get the basics, it’s quite interesting to keep improving at something that’s so simple but has such a trick to learning it. I used to use a paper towel and such. Never realized how wrong I was and how much paint I was wasting and how much time in general I was spending just trying to hammer paint on a surface lol. Can’t express how wonderful this all has been learning from you and seeing how you do things. My wife bought me some of the artis opus brushes for Christmas, it was just a nice present since i just asked for some mediocre dry brushes, she took it to the next step. Been so fun painting with them. Keep slaying it! So so very wonderful!
This was super cool.
Xpress paint gives you a longer work time you you dont meed to be quit as worried about drying.
How much longer would you say? I have heard good things about it
@@ArtisOpus Just tested with torques and I got 2:16. Can probably push it a bit further tbh.
Everytime I watch your videos I am captivating by the models behind you! I love the striking two colour models and would love a video around creating striking but simplified paint designs, especially with how complex some minis are becoming!
It would be great to hear more of your thoughts on basecoat colours, with comparisons of how different colours affect the final model. Maybe some comparisons on the same model painted with different colour combinations, and some thoughts on how you choose the colours - I didn't expect to see purple -> orange - red!
Byron tip for the flamer is dark at the front and lighter as you go further back as the front is where the heat/ burn begins.
i really only use contrast paints as like a base paint because most of the time you can get a nice gradient then work your normal painting in on that. you can also kinda use it like a fake zenithal highlight by tilting the mini to point the way you want the "sun" to be. all the contrast will pool at the lowest point leaving the upwards facing spots lighter and you can go from there.
i will also use different base colors to give myself deeper shades.
like my terminator captain from the leviathan box. i painted the cape blue then zenithal highlighted with white so when i lay the red contrast it makes this deep purple in the fold while keeping the nice red of the highlight.
i will also use dry brushing if i WANT the rough texture like on cloth and such.
I like to do a quick zenithil highlight after my initial prime spray color.
Makes tonnes of sense, do you drybrush the white only?
@@ArtisOpus honestly I’m still trying to figure the best method out. I like to dry brush the white for edge highlights but I then feel like I don’t get enough dry brushing on the spots that didn’t get the zenithil.
I’m still learning a ton though.
on minis with lots of metallics varnishing with a satin varnish once all base contrasts and metallics are on . I use light glazes of contrast and washes to adjust the amount of gloss on cloth and armors before starting on highlighting. So you keep a good level of shine on the metallics without having to do full recoats that a more matt protective coat requires.
I am still quite new to the hobby and your videos def helped me out quite a bit. One thing i think you could go in to more is having confident and being open to start out bad and getting better and better. With my carnifex once i managed to put my anxiety away and just start highlighting i was so happy how it just worked suddenly!
i found your rattle can tutorial a game changer, i never primed in the winter, but with your help i am finishing my orruks i started in November
Wonderful to hear man, happy to be part of it!
what a great live stream this was. Fun and informative as always, thank you!
Starting with a colored base coat is an interesting idea... Going to have to try it. Thank you Byron, love your videos!
Loved the vid as always. Recommendation: make yourself an oat milk latte and watch this video with Byron's golden voice, it'll totally mellow you out and your mini painting will be so much better
Strangely I read this with an Oat Milk Latte 🥰. Small world 👌
I’m hoping to start doing Horus Heresy soon, I’m thinking about doing thousand sons so I’m thinking about starting with a good base coat and dry brush over lighter golds and silvers before applying a red contrast over the gold with the silver dry brush. But I will play with it
Barak-nar Burgundy seems like a beautiful starting colour for reds and yellows.
Fantastic tutorial!
Hi Artis Opus, very nice video - as always! I'd also like to see a video about defferent methods and colour schemes for different skin colours. Keep up the nice work and cheers!
Contrast thru an airbrush is something I enjoy doing and a follow up video involving that would be useful for others I think!
I suggest you to present a video that explain the main type and dimension of brushes for contrast paint, because I’have a lot of problem to load correctly small brush when I use contrast paint. Thanks. And thank you for your video.
Hey Byron, would love to see some more NMM using your style of painting. Maybe a few different kinds of metals. I tend to dry brush more myself so it would be awesome to see more examples of what can be done.
Great video.
Shoutout to UA-cam for hiding this video even though I am subscribed and carefully try to find new videos!
Oh dear, they are bad aren't they! Make sure you tick the bell and it might help stuff out :)
Can you do a video of you Slapchop Painting Custodes? Like contrast paints would you use for the gold and etc.?
I'd love to see a dreadnaught in this style. I have attempted it, but the flat panels never look quite right. I know you mentioned that you try to think of your drybrush colors in the sense of how warm/cool your end result is, but would you be able to expand on that? Maybe something showing the same contrast paints over different drybrush paints to really show the impact of changing those base colors. Your videos are the reason I enjoy painting rather than it being a chore before I can play the game. Keep it up!
Enamel and oil washes are really great over the top of a slapchopped mini. Just to reinvigorate the shadows
Would love to see you do a video where you talk about xpress colors and your thoughts on the range while painting a model.
Happy New Year for 2024!🎉
Those are useful tips for painting contrast over Space Marines, I had a bit of bad experience when I first tried it on one model. They're mostly useful for smaller details and fur surfaces. This would help me explore more on contrast, thank you!
Our pleasure buddy!
Great video happy new year, I find using a dowel with a lump of white tac to hold the head is better for painting it rather than using a paperclip but thats just me.
Seeing the amazing job you did with the flamethrower, you should do more slapchop metallics.
Amazing video. I'd love to see you paint a custodes.
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if you could do a video on how you would tackle hard-to-reach areas? Mores specifically, when the model's weapon and/or arms are blocking their chest. Seems most videos I watch on UA-cam skip that step, and as a newbie painter, I would love to see how professionals go about this.
I really enjoyed seeing a different color prime/base layer. Now I want to slap chop, haha. Brilliant video as always. Happy New Year to ya, brotha.
I would like to see a video on brush care and selection. I’m a new painter and have not taken the plunge on buying expensive brushes, but I’m starting that cheap brushes may not be the answer.
One thing that I have used as a tip, is not the same colors of grey or white in certain areas. if you can use darker or lighter of those colors in certain areas of the mini it will give you the same effect but a different shade of the color. I used this on some minis for Star Wars and it looked amazing.
Thanks for sharing all these tips. My suggestion would be to undercoat in a red colour and darken it down with a wash/nuln oil and then build up the orange.
Great videos and i have learned a ton from your guides, i have been looking for guides on techniques, but i feel that there are very few that give information on all the different names given to paints and why /what they are used for and if you can makes these with just adding flow/thinner/etc to normal acryllics?
As always brilliant video full of useful tips. I would add a small tutorial on how to complement contrasts with normal acrylics. I, in general, use contrasts as base colours. I found that even if you use 2 coats paint eventually is blotchy/spotty on the mini. What I started doing is covering it with a lighter version of same colour using acrylics. This way transitions between colours is smoother. But this is the way I do this.
Would love to see how you would approach it.
Great video, as always! I'd love to see you go a bit more into correcting mistakes in a future video
Loved this. I’ve always tended to dry brush the end of the “heat damage metal” with abaddon black as it tends to look really matte and give the impression of soot and grime.
Really enjoyed this video Byron. Such a calming start to the new year. Some superb tips.
🤟🏼
Hey! Thx for the wonderful video! I started this hobby recently and your dry brush tutorials really helped me a lot~
I have 2 questions in my mind, 1st is how to properly clean the dry brush (I just rinse and rub them in brush soaps like usual brushes after I finished painting, but how to clean them in between different colors while keeping them dry? Should I just brush them on texture palette to remove paints?)
My second question is that for space marine holding heavy weapons (like volkite) how do you reach places like behind the gun and under the arms without taking arms as sub assembly?
Mix colors together for custom colors. I like to also mix in a metallic to make a sparkle to the armor.
Im just getting started, I would love a slop chop for absolute beginners. Something like "the very essentials and basics you need to do your first 3 minis" or something like that. The appeal of the technique to people like me is that it now seems possible to do almost decent looking minis without hundreds of hours invested.
Awesome video. The tips a bout thinning down the contrast is so true. My tip would always do a test model or tests your colors on a texture palette. As contrast paint tend to behave, and look, quite differently, when applying them. Getting a feel for the shade of contrast one is going to use, fore applying them to your model is crucial.
Is that a new painting handle I spy? The plywood looks so nice!
It is! 🥰 One of the first of some prototypes, really enjoying but a fair bit of tweaking and testing to go
Love your vids! I’d really like to see your take on using this slap chop method for white or off white armour as an addition to your White Scars video. I am about to start a Genestealer Cult of the Rusted Claw army soon and am looking for more inspiration.
My suggestion as a noobie to painting is how-to actually use contrast paint because i just learned the hard way that you dont just paint it on lol 😅 i may have just made it a really dark ultramarine blue😂
I did the same with an orc warboss 😭 darrrrrk green skin
Happy new year, I'd love to see non metallic metal (NMN) with dry-brushing, it's definitely something that I find challenging to do and anyway to make it easier id love to see, or even true metallic with dry brushing would be good
I would love to see a Tyranid Skin and Shell drybrush tutorial further techniques for Slapchop and how you would approach the bigger carapace plates.
This video has helped a lot but it's easier for me to mimic than try and figure it out as I'm basically blind to seeing what you and others do/talk about when it comes to identifying areas.
I was wondering if when the army painter fanatic line comes out if you could do a side by side with the Citadel colors and contrast vs the army painter fanatic and speedpaint 2.0. I am sorry, that may be too much of an investment as the complete set is $769 or something close, but I would like to see how the coverage is, especially vs the high price of Citadel.
Hey buddy, there's a big difference in price in the US isn't there? Shocked.me when I first heard it.
I am not a fan of triads, so slightly skeptical of the 6s thing personally, if you and your buddy both paint green skins are they going to look the same, no matter which paints you use? Been going through my head 😅
@@ArtisOpus yeah might be the case, I know they are really stepping up their pigments and stabilizers. I also tend to mix my paints so probably won't have the same color. As far as pricing, Citadel runs at 4.60 per pot for the cheapest and up to 14 per pot for certain shades and washes. The new fanatic line is more expensive than the old line but if you buy singles are still only 4.25 at most and if you buy in a kit can be as low as 3.50 per paint. I also am not sold on the triads, but if I am getting them in a kit and mixing it just becomes another option for how much saturation I want to blend in.
Hello, one thing I'm not sure about, and I'm not sure if you have covered it before and if so, where..
That is, how does the back/under colour really impact the colour you're then dry brushing over and then applying your paint.
Like the whole "prepping the model" with the primer/colour etc.. BEFORE you start putting your actual paint on.
Might I suggest a video experimenting with complmentary colors (colours) and attempting to see if you can achieve a tertiary color effect?
I’m still learning drybrushing (currently with Tyranids) with some basic makeup brushes and often get a powdery look, if that makes sense. It would be great to see a summary of common mistakes (or do’s and don’t’s) for drybrush fundamentals? For instance, a recent video you made a passing remark to not use paper towel to brush off excess and I was wondering why…..
Just started painting again, trying to teach my kid to paint. Last time I painted the models were made of metal so it's been a while, your videoes are a great help.
That handle looks really great, hope it available soon.
You may have covered it en earlier videoes but I find colours like yellows and white really hard when it's larger surfaces like armour.
Yellow pigments seem very "weak" and whites I get those too thick layers, so that would be my suggestion.
Anywho, happy new year, thx for the great content 🙂
I'd love to see a slapchop video featuring Orks or Orruks, whichever is your preference as it would be good to see how you approached the flesh tones on an infantry sized miniature. I'd also like to see how you may do things differently if you incorporated true metallic acrylics instead of approximating NMM with Contrast paints.
The Series D brushes really do look like the best tool for dry-brushing out there, although for me the item I'm most interested in getting is the texture palette. Do you use the regular size palette in your videos or the XL one?
Byron, I truly enjoy watching your videos as I feel like I learn something new with each video. One of the biggest things I struggle with is that I don’t use contrast/speed paints. Could you do this same process with Pro Acyrl, AK Interactive and other paint lines? If so what would the steps be and/or how different will it be?
Happy new year 🎉, great video. I'd like to see variations of colors other than black/gray/white/brown on zenithal highlights on how they work with the final results.
Like a side by side science-y test? We could be tempted :)
I really appreciated seeing colors used other than black/white/grey. I always wondered why you wouldn't start introducing tones into the piece sooner. I've been using dark purple and dark blue instead of black, with good results, on the theory that when I shade I never shade with pure black so why would I start slapchop with pure black? My suggestion is tip 6 = practice practice practice, because brush control only comes with practice. You can't just watch videos and magically know when your brush is ready to hit the model. I use the armies left over from box sets I bought for the terrain as my practice dummies. Could you please do a video on how to "season" the texture pad? Thank you for all of the lessons!
Another great tutorial , I’ve just painted the legions imperialis baneblade using your method and series D , small and medium brushes . I’m so pleased with the out come . But I would like something on how to use colours that complement , like how you used black undercoat , then purple and then Lugganath orange . I never seem to pick the right colours for it to work 🤷🏻♀️
So new painter here. Stippling seems to be used a lot by certain channels. However, they all don’t usually explain the consistency of their paints and how that changes their outcome. Trovarion doesn’t water his paint down for his grim dark approach. Richard Gray heavily waters down his paint before stippling. Can you explain why you take the approach you do and how it affects the outcome? Hopefully that makes sense.
Every paint brand is a different consistency, everyone lives in a different climate. Just experiment, its very easy
I'd like to see how to use color combinations with various non-black basecoats to create different effects. More examples of different types of models would also be great to have!
I have heard many people don't like dry brushing because it can leave streaky lines on the model. But why do then not use a thin layer (thin glaze) to cover and bring forth the vibrancy of the color. (Then they will never know) I really like the heat build up.
Happy new year to everyone!
It's about to be June bro, it's summer lol
That moss thing was a neat idea 😊
Maybe not a follow up video but one for maybe me as a complete beginner. When and how what is the thought process in choosing the best method for miniature and above painting. Ie when best to dry brush or slapchop and why??
Happy New Year Byron, great video thanks, I was given the Phobus kill team at Christmas so this will definitely help. thinking of doing them in the Raptor's paint scheme so hopefully, I'll be able to switch the colors to suit.
I have been trying to apply your dry brush techniques to Catalyst Game Labs Battletech miniatures. To me they seem to be a cross between Space Marines and Vehicles, but I don't seem to be getting the same results. Maybe an example video on a Battletech miniature would be nice.
Byron are you going to do an "Old World" army challenge? Or even a couple of the units? I for one would be interested in seeing this.
Can you talk about mixing and diluting paints to imitate contrast paints?. I have a couple of packs of base paint and no contrast and trying to figure it out as a new painter is difficult.
My suggestion, after dry brushing and shade/contrast, it’s a good idea to brush the model again. This will brighten the model back up and give some easy highlights. This works amazingly with true metallics
Solid absolutely, great way to hit those edges with a final flourish
Could you do a video cover how best to do pale greens and blues but still being able to give depth even though it’s pale, not sure if that makes sense,
How to do it with the drybrushes aswell,
Hey buddy :). Good suggestion, it's something we have covered if not specifically in the past in some videos:
1.) Start from blueish or another mixed green and transition (very good cheat)
2.) Use satin to suggest depth
I want to do some more on this type of stuff, I will hold this question in mind!
@@ArtisOpus brilliant that would be awesome if you covered it in another video, I’ve watched the past ones but I always seem to too dark to get the depth and it looks too harsh when I then try to do the highlights again to make it brighter
Man, painting videos where the majority is showing NOT the model are really annoying... there is almost NO reason at all to not show the mini/painting all the time.
Merci pour la vidéo
Mon plaisir!
These are great for bold and dark but what about white armor? Suggestions?
I'd love to see how you would go about painting a glass effect on an opaque surface, especially something curved like a cockpit canopy. With the rise of 3d printing (and the difficulty of printing decent transparent components), I think that a lot of people would find this useful, both for terrain and vehicles.
Also, happy new year. Hope to see a lot more of your content in 2024.
I managed to finally get my hand on your series S 0, 1 and two. It’s really hard to find places where they sell them here. The series D is impossible to find 😢 hope I can get my hands on them soon.
Hey buddy :). Where are you based? We ship worldwide very reasonably and have a growing selection of local retailers and FLGS.
@@ArtisOpus Based in Denmark. I know one store but always sold out and not always very customer friendly. Also they always push prices to the limit where it’s the same as GW stores or almost 50 more expensive than alternatives on paints.
I’m just not sure how all the mess with import tax and duties are handled after your lovely country decided to exit EU.
I'd be very interested to learn how you would use oil washes.
I think the only thing I was really curious to hear more about (and it was probably only briefly mentioned because you cover it elsewhere) pertains to wet blending. Are there certain paint lines or even individual colors this technique is easier to use with? How much time do you have before one color dries and sets? How much impact does what medium you use (if any), and the ratio of paint to medium, have on drying time? How big a deal is reactivation even with contrast paints?
I also saw a blurb on someone else's Instagram today about contrast vs shade. Dunno if these are complicated enough to justify their own video or not, just a few thoughts from someone who hasn't really gotten back into the hobby yet but has taken a deep dive on UA-cam tutorials in the past year.
What would be a good undercoat for each color and how do you slapchop those colors up?
I have recently started painting the Wolfspear, as they have a light grey armour, i would love to see your take on slap chop for lighter colours if possible?
Hi have you done a video painting squigs please as struggling to find the best way to do it from bomb squigs upto the killrig squig thanks
What was that vat your dropped the Minifigure into at 1:16 in the vid?
It's Biostrip :) elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery-by-manufacturer/biostrip-20
We did a video on it a while back, it's great, and this is still my original tub (1litre):
ua-cam.com/video/BVnN36OzhlA/v-deo.html
To me your take on black / really dark grey with slapchop would be an interesting subject
This is a great example of how to do rainbow flamers ;)
Just starting out. If I don't have access to legitimate contrast paint, would I be able to thin down (with water) some of the GW base paints. I have some ultramarines and I'm wondering if I could water down some macragge blue?
Hey buddy, not really, you'd be making a glaze there, you could buy some contrast medium (contrast, without the colour) and use that.
Genuinely though it's worth picking up a few of the contrasts, 4-5 of the good ones in colours you like will get you a very long way.
I have far too many, and I use only about 10 of them 🙄
Cool technique, awesome result! What under colors would you use if you were looking to go salamanders though?
Have you seen the new Maxx Darth black from Green Stuff World? It would be awesome to see how you would use it for dry brushing and slap chop
I hadn't, presumably this is the same as Museux black? I have played a little with some and struggled to found uses (apart from photo backgrounds)
@@ArtisOpus Presumably similar. They tout that it can provide a great base to produce the deepest contrasts for minis and bases.
ua-cam.com/video/jiuTszfAmNw/v-deo.htmlsi=mKBe3ycglYfzV2Qr
Id love to see your approach to painting armies, as opposed to individual miniatures - how to take these techniques, and apply them at scale. Perhaps with methods of where to step off? I.e. How to get it to battle ready and on the table, and then how to elevate the paint scheme.
Some questions and suggestions from me
I have seen that wetblending is a way to get contrasts when using standard paint. Can you also use wetblending with contrast paints?
Also I tried slapchopping a nemesis dreadknight, but it came out horribly. Lots of people seem to have difficulty with slappchopping models with bigger flat surfaces. Could you do a tutorial on how you would approach a model like this?
Thanks for all the videos! I am learning so much from you❤