Say Goodbye To Snipe - Thickness Planer Jig // Woodworking
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2020
- #woodworking #planer #powertools
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In this week’s video, I make a simple jig for eliminating snipe problems on my thickness planer. This jig requires a 3/4” 2 foot long piece of melamine and some scrap 3/4 plywood and some wood glue. It very much resembles a bench hook. The melamine offers a better, smooth surface and better stability as boards feed through the thickness planer. This is one of the easiest jig s to make and by far, one of the most useful.
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To increase the life of the jig. Find an old Formica countertop from a kitchen/bath remodel or a desk that has the Formica veneer. Cut your jig top surface from this. Put a coat of paste wax on the top friction area of the jig and keep it waxed. This will reduce drag.
Hello Friends! One thing I should mention is that you will need to compensate for the thickness of the this jig when setting the thickness for your boards. It's no big deal. I set mine for whatever thickness I'm setting for the board plus 3/4" ( or whatever the thickness of the your melamine will be). Also, I cannot guarantee that this will work on every make and model of thickness planer. Some of the newer planers will not need this at all (Dewalt). Some of the older ones may have other issues, including worn rollers on the cutting head, which may intensify the snipe issue. I can only share what worked for me on my thickness planer. A simple, low cost solution.
Your solutions are always so simple!!
I just got a new planer and sure enough... SNIPE!! This solved it! Thanks!
I must make this. Absurdly simple for such a big improvement.
Eric, this video is great! I'm glad to see a woodworker without thousands of dollars of tools. This is excellent for almost everyone since it applies to beginners and experienced woodworkers alike.
Thank you so much. I have the 25 year old Ryobi AP-10. Up until this video I was just keeping the boards long and cutting out the snipe. This saves so much waste. Kind Regards, Craig
That AP 10 is a great little planer. Very rugged.
I made one for my Delta planner, just longer for more support 16 inches on both sides. The outfeed side also has rollers mounted at same height to help with longer pieces as they exit.
Hi Eric, another great idea, I will have to build one of these and try it out. Thanks for sharing
Nice work! This is the first time I’ve seen someone cut a dado using a sliding miter saw. Assuming the extra fence attachment helped determine correct depth. Genius!
Thanks Cindy! If you're interested, I did a video on that very topic in 2019: ua-cam.com/video/0BQ1wC21LPk/v-deo.html
Great idea. I will use it right away. Thanks
i'VE seen so many videos with using double-sided tape and scraps to extend your board to eliminate snipe. I like this idea a LOT better!
I made one similar to your design a week ago and eliminated any snipe. Very happy with the results of a 2 hour (or less) project. Great enhancement to a planer.
I have to try this on my dad's. I bet it will work. Thank you for sharing
The powertool is very complete, greetings from Indonesia
Thank you , I will use this jig...major problem with snipe with my planer.
This is genius! I wish I saw this before I ruined all my pre-cut boards. I borrowed my friend's planer cut my boards to length, ran them through and they all died from snipe. Had to go back to the hardware store buy more lumber plan it then cut it all the length. Lesson learned!
I had a friend cut me a 36" piece of 1/4" steel at his shop. I sanded it up to 2000 grit, and coated it with paste wax. I epoxied a few feet under the infeed & outfeed sides for support. It has eliminated about 90% of my snipe if I just slide a board through. I found that if I want to remove the other 10%, I just need to apply pressure down onto the bed as the roller catches and released the material, and it comes out perfectly flat. No longer need to measure an extra 5" in length when milling.
Good morning. You're up early. This is excellent. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Brian! I'm not up too early, just the magic of scheduling a video for auto publish. Cheers🙂
Thanks for sharing. I am currently building a cart for my tablesaw and planer/thicknesser. snipe has always been an issue with my machine. As I only have a small shed to work in, space is of a premium. Your jig design should be of great benefit to me. Thanks again.
Thanks building that right now.
Antysnipe jig 👍
Great tip!
Fantastic video , great content.
Hey Eric- I have a 12" Makita thickness planer Model 2012 serial number 06287B I bought in 1970. Still going strong. Love that little machine.
Keep it it running til' it dies my friend! That's my moto anyway🙂
I'm getting a thicknesser shortly - your video was timely indeed! Thanks.
Great video! Definitely going to make one of these. LOL'ed at 6:12 when you shut the scrap wood in the garage door. :) Thanks for the tutorial, and the laugh!
Ah, but look a little closer....That is actually a piece of PVC trim. It takes the pressure off the power cord for my camper which is directly beside it. I leave it there when I'm charging the battery.
@@EricSorensenCanada Now that's some smart thinkin' :) Thanks again!
Nice! Sometimes the relatively simple jigs are the best....
10 thumbs up!!!!! Genius!!!
Very helpful
I like the rack you built for your planner I will have to build one
I find lifting a board up at the back during in feed and my out feed table is raised up for the out feed works. But then I am usually running boards from three to over twelve feet long obviously this does not work for short boards so your jig is perfect.
Thanks for the tip. If you are not getting any snipe anymore then maybe you don’t need it but watching this the first thing I thought was that it seems it would be a good addition to add some kind of support underneath the outfeed side for heavier boards especially. Looks like it should be easy to mount something to the frame of your stand.
Thanks Daniel! I don't let the boards fall through on the out-feed, manually receiving them. I'm surprised at how many people do though. I might actually make something for the out feed at some point, probably a roller system.
@@EricSorensenCanada Cool. Yeah as long as you're there to catch them it's good. I was just thinking that with a heavy board, as more weight starts to be applied to the outfeed side it may cause the sled to start to tip forward which would re-introduce the snipe issue. As always keep up the good work!
Well done video. Simple and strait forward. Thanks
cool idea. I just wish I'd watched this yesterday......
СПАСИБО!!!
I’ve been thinking about doing this. I’ve got some 19mm heavy duty melamine boards. Thinking I may make mine a little longer though so I’ve got some more in feed and out feed support
Great video Eric, I did about the same thing a few years back but I added on six strips of Teflon tape which made for a very slick surface!
Liked the video before I even watched it. I am super keen to learn how to overcome thicknesser snipe!
I had issues with my old sears thickness planer, my new Rigid, no issues. Check the infeed and outfeed tables, those are usually what's the source of the snipe.
@@slowfinger2 I think what they are talking about are the fold down in-feed and out-feed tables on the Ridgid planer. I have the Ridgid planer and I love it. Takes a little time to calibrate the set screws to make flat deck, but once that's set, very little to no snipe. I think the key is to have a longer table so that the boards are supported throughout the entire cut. As a side note, I have the Ridgid jointer and those tables are not fold down so I can see the misunderstanding. Bottom line, build a longer table for your planer regardless of brand and enjoy snipeless cuts.
This is a great idea! I think it would work for taking re-sawn wood down to 1/16th of an inch for box liners.
SImple and sufficiant - great job Eric!
This is an old trick but i work mostly with mdf and very little with the planer and i was too lazy to make it. But i guess i'll just go make one now 🙂
If you need a surface that is more durable than melamine, might I suggest bonding some formica to the top of the board? The counter tops made out of that stuff are pretty tuff.
I spent an hour yesterday building the very same type of jig with melamine and 1" pine. I added a triangle wood brace behind the rabetted wall to add support since the planers' rollers pull with a lot of force. Even though I have a King helical planer, it still wasn't snipe free
Nice! It's not the cutter that causes the snipe, it's the bottom plate on the infeed / outfeed. For me it was especially the outfeed.
@@EricSorensenCanada I believe it. I had a similar three knife cutter planer and switched to helical head, but it still wasn't good. My snipe still was noticeable at about 2" front and back. The jig made the bed longer and coplanar
Dude! Your planer can also plane down to 0.000” 2 jigs in one. And nice with the makita chop saw I’m a makita guy myself. I’m hard to get a complement from but you did a great job
Spray the melamine with liquid roller spray and let dry it will be very slick
Jig is great but even more impressive is how tidy and dust free your shop is! Do you take time to clean up before shooting video or is it always this neat? I’m envious either way!
I use as much dust collection as I can while I'm working, then I clean up after every shop session. I don't like breathing in dust while I'm trying to work in there.
Thanks for this video. I have extension wings on both ends of my planer that extend even further than your jig but I still get snipe. I have adjusted them and reduced the snipe but it's still slightly apparent.
It may not be possible on some brands of planers. It sounds like you have a newer one. There are many other factors, such as the length of the board going through, whether or not the weight of the board is cause the outfeed table to tip down slightly etc. Try feeding it in on a slight angle, that might help as well.
If your planner has rollers they can be adjusted. When they are too high the board tips up on the way in and out of the planer causing snipe.
@@johcoppola what dose to high mean? To close to infeed table or to close to the top of the jointer? Thanks fyi i have a delta 12.5in lunch box planer
Infeed and outfeed wings on most planers are adjustable. I raised mine up a bit and that helps reduce snipe. Adding the melamine bed should get it really close.
I have wondered why planer manufacturers don’t offer such a jig made out of steel as an add-on. It would be stiffer, more long lived, and much thinner.
I've heard good things about the new Dewalt thickness planers. The new ones all seem to come with fold out bed extensions as well. You'd think with all the innovation in tools, they could solve the snipe issues.
Man! If that works, I’m on board.
It worked for my planer. You still have to ensure that the board has decent support on infeed / outfeed but the jig does the rest.
@@EricSorensenCanada That is good enough for me. I have an older Makita. Simple is good
Thanks for sharing, I wonder if MDF would be better, as Melamine chipboard tends to warp if there is moisture.
I find the opposite is true. MDF is more likely to take on moisture. Double sided melamine is water proof, except for the the core and that only swells if it comes in direct contact with water. Best to keep your power tools away from water in any case.
I like seeing you protect your extension cord from the door. If you want your tool to last take care of them. I do not use my planer often but next time I do it will have a jig.
Complete sidebar from the woodworking. A little freaky that I wear the same coat and have the same Arc'teryx sticker on a cabinet door above my miter saw. Once again your video made me feel at home watching your work, not like my tools or shop size isn't sufficient to produce nice things.
Thanks Jeff! I have a friend who works at Arc'teryx. She gave me the sticker, so I put it on my cabinet.
Hi, thanks for the idea. Should the melamine be a specific length both in and out sides? Min or Max?
Would you use a sled on top of the melamine platform to flatten a board of your board is wider than your jointer?
Thanks!
Mine is 2 feet long. You can make it a little longer if you like but this size seems to be working well for me. I don't use sleds, but sometimes I tape thin shims to the board, depending on how rough it is. Usually I will get the boards pre-milled on one side when I bring them home or they are already rough milled both sides but flat.
I have done this in the past, unfortunately the melamine doesn't last a super long time before the veneer wears out. But for the time that it does last, it's a big improvement
Yes, I think once that happens to mine, I'll look around for a more durable surface. Failing that, I'll just replace it. The melamine is cheap and the time it saves in not having to do follow-up hand planing is priceless.
Find an old Formica top from a kitchen/bath remodel and cut it to size for the jig. Put a coat of paste wax on the top of the friction surfaces of the jig and keep it waxed. It'll make it last longer and the boards will slide easier.
I had no idea ryobi made a planer!!!!
I think they still do. The green, Model # AP1305. It's only a 12.5 inch , my old blue one is a 13 inch.
Thanks for posting this video. I may just have to give this a try. I noticed there are little guide rails on my planer that keep the boards from slipping out from the blades on the sides. Have you trouble with anything like that using this jig?
Yes, mine has those too. You have to be careful how you feed your boards in. If they wander off to the side, part of the edge will miss the blades and you'll have to run it through again. Try and run them in straight and you shouldn't have any problems.
@@EricSorensenCanada Got it! Thank you!
This looks like a great idea, Eric. I have a Wen 13" model that has the fold down front and rear tables. I'm assuming that I'll have to remove those in order to use your jig idea. Correct? Thanks.
I don't know, I'm not familiar with the wen. It depends on whether or not the fold out tables can handle the forward pressure when you hook the jig onto it.
@@EricSorensenCanada Good thinking. Thanks.
I made one of these from MDF a while ago, and my snipe is a lot better but not fully gone. Great video again dude.
Did you try checking your out-feed? I found that I still needed to ensure the weight of the board was supported on the end, on the way out. Also, if you have a level floor, you could set up a roller stand system to receive it.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thank you Eric. I'll try the roller.
Put a coat of paste wax on the top surface of the jig. Reduces drag.
If the board being planned can not move up while passing through the infeed rollers, you should not get any snipe. Same thing for support on the exit side, keep it level with longer runout and or rollers.
My Ryobi planer has a fold down wing on each side. Have you removed yours or did it not have any?
The 13 Inch, AP1301 never came with fold down wings: bit.ly/3p2VjG6. Sounds like you have a different model.
Looks like a nice jig & easy to build Eric. However, how does it actually prevent snipe? Is it because the actual surface area from front to back is extended? Just curious.....
Thanks Steve! For my 13" Ryobi, it is definitely the factory plate for the bottom of the planer that was causing the worst of the snipe, especially on the out feed at the end of the board. The other factor of course is the weight of the board tipping forward on the out-feed. So between this jig and supporting the weight at the end, without lifting the board up, I have eliminated the snipe issues on my surface planer. Making the jig longer might even help more, but you need to ensure it stays level on both ends and that it is fully supported.
I just purchased a DeWalt 12.5 inch thickness planer.
Are you saying I won’t need to use this for twisted boards?
The only way to find out is to give it a try without. I don't own a Dewalt but I've heard good things about them🙂
For “stronger material” just pour some resin on it
Did you remove your infeed and outfeed and replace with this jig, or does this jig sit on top of your current infeed and outfeed?
My planer never came with an infeed / outfeed. This jig sits on top of the factory surface.
@@EricSorensenCanada thank you
I'm new to wood working and wanted to ask a stupid question. If you buying pine or poplar wood say from Lowes you really don't need to plain the boards for making items for there boards they are pretty much planed before you get them. I don't own a planner Yet?
If you're using lumber that is finished on both sides from a home store, then no, you don't need a thickness planer. The thickness planer is good for buying rough sawmill lumber and processing it - you save a bit of money but it's not essential.
I could google the word Snipe..but I would like to know what Snipe is from you... I like your videos to learn and I watch lots of woodworking videos..Try not to abbreviate what your talking about if you can because I like to know what I am watching... keep up the good videos Thanks
Planer "snipe" occurs when a planer cuts a little bit deeper at the beginning or end of a long board. It leaves a shallow indent across the board. If you Google it, they will probably tell you it's caused by the cutter head moving forward, which is total nonsense. It is in fact, partly caused by instability in the infeed / outfeed plate that the board rests on. It is also caused by a long board tipping under it's own weight at the end of the feed. The solution: a jig like mine, or a planer with a better quality cast iron bottom feed table. Also, ensure that your board is properly supported on your in feed and out feed. Many people tend to just feed the board in and let it roll through on its own. You still need to support it on either end, but never stand directly in front or directly behind the board. Rollers and stands can be used to catch the board on the outfeed, making it less work for the user.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thank you very much for the reply...Now I know because I have been using my friends planer and just thought it was his planer....I am buying a brand new one this weekend and will definitely make one of your boards for it...All these tips I am finding on utube are brilliant and you are one of them... sorry for being maybe rude in my comment but I like to know the in and outs of something and I just get frustrated when I don’t know what they are going on about...some utubers go on about the kids or there new car and I tend to not watch them..KISS (keep it simple stupid) Thanks again Bruce
Thinking of doing this for my DW735 rather than buying the outfeed tables for $50. Why not make it longer to function as longer infeed / outfeed?
For my planer 2 feet was enough, I still need to store the thing🙂 You can try making it longer. Just make sure you support it on either end or it may tip and give you snipe anyway.
@@EricSorensenCanada to clarify also, I'd be doing it for ease of use as I haven't had any snipe issues so far but mainly been doing shorter boards. Appreciate the feedback. Enjoy your practical and frugal approach to your channel.
Your Dewalt planer is probably very good, their tools are solid 👍 You may notice snipe more on longer boards (over 4 feet). Most people get snipe because of insufficient support on the out feed but in my case, the bottom plate was the main culprit.
I also have the dw735 planer. I made a similar platform but made it 6 feet on the outfeed side. Make sure that you support it about 3 feet from edge of planer bed to get best results. I have planed 10 foot boards this way with no snipe at all. Remember to hat snipe occurs after the board passes the infeed roller and the board sags raising it it cutter. Best of luck and love your channel
Can you use this jig in the place of the board that you push through the planer to flatten a cupped or bowed piece of stock?
This jig stabilizes the board going through, and with the proper out-feed, eliminates snipe. If you're trying to flatten a cupped board, that would be a kind of different jig that would have to travel through with your board (on top of the anti-snipe jig).
@@EricSorensenCanada gotcha. Thanks for clearing that up. What were your dimensions of your jig? I have the DeWalt planer and want to make that board out of the melamine. I just read your response to other comments saying that if you have the DeWalt planer you may not need this jig, yet I do have snipe still. I've tried lifting it up in the beginning and at the end I still have some snipe. Not much though
@@EricSorensenCanada also, I have an infeed and outfeed table that's already attached. Do I have to take them off to make this jig or what exactly?
Mine is 13-1/8" X 24" You will have to check the width of your planer to make sure it sits properly inside the flanges on either side. Some people make it a bit longer and says it helps. For the infeed/outfeed, if they can handle the pull, you can try to hook it on the end with the infeed but if they are too fragile, remove them.
Hi, thanks and very interesting. I might have missed something in your video. My question is " What does the jig actually do. its purpose?" I'm assuming it basically lengthens the base of the machine so the board stays straighter longer on the base so the machine doesn't get a chance to snipe it at the start or at the end....correct me if I'm wrong. Looking forward to your response.
For my Planer (might not be the case with all planers), the factory platform is kind of flimsy. So the jig does two things, it provides a much more stable base, and it extends the surface on the in/out feed for more stability. The out-feed is the key though. You must receive it by hand or add an extension or rollers at the end. Doing this eliminated snipe for me. If I let the board roll through without receiving properly, I will still get a very small amount of snipe but greatly reduced from what it used to be.
@@EricSorensenCanada many thanks... pretty much what I thought. Take a look at -Everthing you need to know about thicknesser/planer snipe". He speaks about lengthening the bed as well.
Ah .... was wondering well how is this going to stop snipe .....
Then it hit me .... ah it makes the input and output table longer. Got it.
I was thinking the exact same. My thickness planer has extension wings on either sides but I still get snipe so idk....
what happened to the original in feed and out feed table to your planer?
Never had one. My planer is 11 years old now. Now I think most manufactures include the in feed / out feed extensions for their planer beds.
@@EricSorensenCanada just picked an old Delta Planer with no infeed and outfeed table. I thought about buying a set and fitting them to it, but I think I will do this instead. Thanks for the video
Why isn't the stop centered on the melamine?
It works like a bench hook. The stop hooks onto the in-feed so that you have a longer out-feed, where most of the snipe occurs. Centering it on the board will short-change your outfeed.
Did you just make a dado with a miter saw?!?
Yes, and I have a video on how to set up a miter saw to do this: ua-cam.com/video/0BQ1wC21LPk/v-deo.html
This also can be used in lieu of a jointer to get two flat surfaces. Since the reference of the melamine is perfectly flat.
Actually this theory is only half right. With a fairly straight board to begin with, and doing multiple small micro shavings it could work but with a significant cup or bow the rollers of the planer will actually push the warp out of the board and when it gets released the warp may still be there. E for enthusiasmthoufh
Only if the melamine is rolling through with the board and you've supported and cups or bows on the underside so the rollers can flatten the board as it feeds.
Can you use mdf instead?
The friction might be a bit too intense for MDF. You kind of need a surface that will allow the board to move easily through.
@@EricSorensenCanada does home depot sell melamine?
Yes! What's nice about it, is you can go to the section where they have the melamine shelving, I think it's 5/8". Since you only need a smaller piece for this project, it's inexpensive to just cut down a short melamine shelf board
Paste wax is your friend.
What's a snipe? Thanks
Planer "snipe" occurs when a planer cuts a little bit deeper at the beginning or end of a long board. It leaves a shallow indent across the board. If you Google it, they will probably tell you it's caused by the cutter head moving forward, which is total nonsense. It is in fact, partly caused by instability in the infeed / outfeed plate that the board rests on. It is also caused by a long board tipping under it's own weight at the end of the feed. The solution: a jig like mine, or a planer with a better quality cast iron bottom feed table. Also, ensure that your board is properly supported on your in feed and out feed. Many people tend to just feed the board in and let it roll through on its own. You still need to support it on either end, but never stand directly in front or directly behind the board. Rollers and stands can be used to catch the board on the outfeed, making it less work for the user.
@@EricSorensenCanada I've used planers already but never heard that term. I volunteer in a Habitat for Humanity wood shop and we've been down lately. Thank you for your videos.
What’s snipe?
Planer "snipe" occurs when a planer cuts a little bit deeper at the beginning or end of a long board. It leaves a shallow indent across the board. If you Google it, they will probably tell you it's caused by the cutter head moving forward, which is total nonsense. It is in fact, partly caused by instability in the infeed / outfeed plate that the board rests on. It is also caused by a long board tipping under it's own weight at the end of the feed. The solution: a jig like mine, or a planer with a better quality cast iron bottom feed table. Also, ensure that your board is properly supported on your in feed and out feed. Many people tend to just feed the board in and let it roll through on its own. You still need to support it on either end, but never stand directly in front or directly behind the board. Rollers and stands can be used to catch the board on the outfeed, making it less work for the user.
Eric, why do you think your jig eliminates snipe? Your theory? Thanks
For my 13" Ryobi, it is definitely the factory plate for the bottom of the planer that was causing the worst of the snipe, especially on the out feed at the end of the board. The other factor of course is the weight of the board tipping forward on the out-feed. So between this jig and supporting the weight at the end, without lifting the board up, I have eliminated the snipe issues on my surface planer.