If you have a 2014, my relays were ehind the battery. Not sure when the change occured. Its also the one towards the back. Tye ine towards the front is for 4x4
I’m not the best at explaining some things. When I talk about checking compressor at the compressor to see if it is shorted out, you are going to unplug the compressor, and you will set your multimeter to Rx1 or the continuity setting. Your test will be on the compressor side of the plug, not the wiring harness side that you unplugged compressor from. Google which terminal is the compressor lead. There are 4 wires at the compressor. With meter set as described, put black probe to a clean piece of metal on frame for ground. Then take red probe and put it on the compressor lead terminal on the plug of the compressor. If the meter reads 000 to 003 or if using analog meter, if needle goes all the way over to right side, then the compressor winding is shorted and this is why it is blowing fuses. You need a compressor. This is not a common problem, but is a possibility and should be tested before replacing the fuse under the hood since that fuse is special and specific to Nissan. It’s a 3 circuit fuse and takes up 3 spaces in fuse box. You don’t want to replace that fuse until you rule out what is blowing the fuse. If you need to replace the fuse, you better get two because if you haven’t fixed whatever is shorting it out, then it will blow the new fuse same as original. However, if it continues blowing fuse, most likely cause is compressor. There is a controller inside the vehicle in back left and you can get to it by removing both upper and lower interior panels left side far back. This is not a common problem either but still possible this can be the cause. Study how this system works and this will help you determine the problem. 95% of the time it’s the relay under the hood. You can also adjust your ride height at the sensor. By popping the rod loose that attaches to sensor arm, loosen jamb nut, then screw the plastic out a few threads at a time LENGTHENING the rod. Press it back on the ball pin where you took it loose originally, then start and run the vehicle, drive it around for 5 min then get out and look at your height. If you’re happy, your done. If you need it higher, repeat same steps. If you want it lower repeat same steps but shorten the rod when you adjust it. Hope this helps. Message me if you have questions. I’ll happily help you if I can.
I have a 2008 Infiniti QX56 and the airbags not working. Replace the relay but still not working. Checked the old relay with my multimeter and it appears to be good, I am not the best with a multimeter. Question is, how do you remove the long fuse so you can see if the there is a break or bad connection without breaking the fuse.
I found it! It’s the red L shape fuse under the hood behind the battery. It’s a weird looking fuse with clear glass window(plastic). It’s three in one meaning 30amp 30amp 50 amp. It relly called a fusible link. Amazon for 10 bucks! Fixed mine. I replaced everything before that except the compressor.
I would check for an air leak. If your ride height is ok and compressor is running a lot, I would consider there is a leak in the air system. Just crawl up under while compressor is on and when it shuts off listen for leaking air. It may be a bad leaky air strut. Hope this helps
@@immusicman Thanks, I'll do that. We have noticed when it's colder out, the back end sits low until the vehicle is started, so taking that into consideration, an air leak would make sense I think. I'll mix up some soapy water and see what I can find. We've also noticed a little back end swaying when we hit uneven bumps.
Mine exploded! Literally. Mines 2004. Scared the entire neighborhood. Sounded like a bomb went off. If I were you I would replace your rear shocks. It was only 350.00 on Amazon. For both! Easy to change too. Never knew it could blow. Now I have a hole in my gas tank. Wtf. It blew something. Because I leak on a hill nowZ
Sounds like you have an air leak. It could be coming from the airlines that run to each air strut that you will have to just crawl up under it and chase down the hiss. Hope this helps.
Ok that’s all fine, but no one talks about the real fuse that actually makes this sucker work. It’s the red L shaped fuse that is 30amp 30amp 50amp all in one! Had this truck since new in 2004. I tried everything replaced the boards, the relays, and after years of no leveling I discovered this by mistake….check this fuse! It’s under the hood it the fuse boxes behind the battery .
Actually I do mention the fuse in the video and even show where it is. Probably should have shown that first but every one I’ve worked on , it was indeed the relay.
@@bryanedwards1353 if it’s blowing the fuse every week then something is drawing too much amperage. This could be caused by a loose ground wire or the relay not making a really tight connection and getting hot. It also may mean that the compressor is drawing too much amperage because it’s wearing out. I wish I could be of more help.
Awesome video and super helpful, thank you for taking the time to do this and help others 🙌
My pleasure. Glad to help.
Thanks for the video. Just fixed my 2014 Armada.
You’re welcome bud. Glad it helped!
If you have a 2014, my relays were ehind the battery. Not sure when the change occured. Its also the one towards the back. Tye ine towards the front is for 4x4
Mine is a 2008 QX56 and there are also 2 relays behind the battery. Thanks for the info, I''ll swap the relay tomorrow
@@jeanandre6299 glad you could read through all my typos. Lol
Great video! Can you share what is the normal gap in inches from the tire? I suspect suspension issue with my QX80.
Did you figure this out because I have the qx80 and my rear compressor has not been turning on at all.
I’m not the best at explaining some things. When I talk about checking compressor at the compressor to see if it is shorted out, you are going to unplug the compressor, and you will set your multimeter to Rx1 or the continuity setting. Your test will be on the compressor side of the plug, not the wiring harness side that you unplugged compressor from. Google which terminal is the compressor lead. There are 4 wires at the compressor. With meter set as described, put black probe to a clean piece of metal on frame for ground. Then take red probe and put it on the compressor lead terminal on the plug of the compressor. If the meter reads 000 to 003 or if using analog meter, if needle goes all the way over to right side, then the compressor winding is shorted and this is why it is blowing fuses. You need a compressor. This is not a common problem, but is a possibility and should be tested before replacing the fuse under the hood since that fuse is special and specific to Nissan. It’s a 3 circuit fuse and takes up 3 spaces in fuse box. You don’t want to replace that fuse until you rule out what is blowing the fuse. If you need to replace the fuse, you better get two because if you haven’t fixed whatever is shorting it out, then it will blow the new fuse same as original. However, if it continues blowing fuse, most likely cause is compressor. There is a controller inside the vehicle in back left and you can get to it by removing both upper and lower interior panels left side far back. This is not a common problem either but still possible this can be the cause. Study how this system works and this will help you determine the problem. 95% of the time it’s the relay under the hood. You can also adjust your ride height at the sensor. By popping the rod loose that attaches to sensor arm, loosen jamb nut, then screw the plastic out a few threads at a time LENGTHENING the rod. Press it back on the ball pin where you took it loose originally, then start and run the vehicle, drive it around for 5 min then get out and look at your height. If you’re happy, your done. If you need it higher, repeat same steps. If you want it lower repeat same steps but shorten the rod when you adjust it. Hope this helps. Message me if you have questions. I’ll happily help you if I can.
I have a 2008 Infiniti QX56 and the airbags not working. Replace the relay but still not working. Checked the old relay with my multimeter and it appears to be good, I am not the best with a multimeter. Question is, how do you remove the long fuse so you can see if the there is a break or bad connection without breaking the fuse.
I found it! It’s the red L shape fuse under the hood behind the battery. It’s a weird looking fuse with clear glass window(plastic). It’s three in one meaning 30amp 30amp 50 amp. It relly called a fusible link. Amazon for 10 bucks! Fixed mine. I replaced everything before that except the compressor.
You mentioned the fuses... where are they? My relay and sensor are good and I replaced the compressor already
It’s in the fuse box under the hood. I show them in the video.
I have a 2017 Armada that we just started noticing the compressor running much more often followed by a hiss at the end. Your thoughts?
I would check for an air leak. If your ride height is ok and compressor is running a lot, I would consider there is a leak in the air system. Just crawl up under while compressor is on and when it shuts off listen for leaking air. It may be a bad leaky air strut. Hope this helps
@@immusicman Thanks, I'll do that. We have noticed when it's colder out, the back end sits low until the vehicle is started, so taking that into consideration, an air leak would make sense I think. I'll mix up some soapy water and see what I can find. We've also noticed a little back end swaying when we hit uneven bumps.
Mine exploded! Literally. Mines 2004. Scared the entire neighborhood. Sounded like a bomb went off. If I were you I would replace your rear shocks. It was only 350.00 on Amazon. For both! Easy to change too. Never knew it could blow. Now I have a hole in my gas tank. Wtf. It blew something. Because I leak on a hill nowZ
Sounds like you have an air leak. It could be coming from the airlines that run to each air strut that you will have to just crawl up under it and chase down the hiss. Hope this helps.
Sorry, I referred to this Armada as an infinity. Both use similar parts, but this is the Armada
What is the other relay in front of that one?
It’s for the fog lights, you can swap them to test!
Share the ebay link❤
Ok that’s all fine, but no one talks about the real fuse that actually makes this sucker work. It’s the red L shaped fuse that is 30amp 30amp 50amp all in one! Had this truck since new in 2004. I tried everything replaced the boards, the relays, and after years of no leveling I discovered this by mistake….check this fuse! It’s under the hood it the fuse boxes behind the battery .
2017 model and my 30amp fuse blows weekly! Any suggestions?
Actually I do mention the fuse in the video and even show where it is. Probably should have shown that first but every one I’ve worked on , it was indeed the relay.
@@bryanedwards1353 if it’s blowing the fuse every week then something is drawing too much amperage. This could be caused by a loose ground wire or the relay not making a really tight connection and getting hot. It also may mean that the compressor is drawing too much amperage because it’s wearing out. I wish I could be of more help.