Thanks for the wonderful video. It is helping me on my journey to restore an early AR XA. I'm going with the jewel bearings and cardas wire. Here in the States the shipping and general costs are much more affordable. I love the background music and the humor too. (Yippy, another thing that can go wrong. :-P ). Great work and hello to down under!
Great vid! I want to do the rewire mod to my AR XA but I’m hasitating. Got the Technics want and the wires already but I’m not confident with my soldering skills. Your vid makes it look easy. Thanks for motivation!
fun stuff - my first T'table way back when was an AR.... quickly learned Manuel T'table was not for me, full auto handled the critical needle / LP contact better than my hands, especially if enhancements were used. got a Pioneer that after 45 years runs great still, to me. quality. I butchered the installation of a new cart.,( I'm 73. hands shake etc ) breaking one of the 4 tiny wires / contacts to back of T'table. presto, T'table worth about 2 cents - they didn't use the technics / SME fairly easy wire replace. unbelievable. So I'm looking to replace the tiny wires from cart. back under T'arm pivot. yea, sure. of course elect. repair shops have pretty totally vanished. I found burning the thin insulation off the tiny wires , match book matches is better than trying to cut / strip the insulation off. just for me of course.
Just bought an xb for a project and honestly don't think I could even begin to undertake it without these vids. Might have some questions for you in the near term. Think I'm definitely gonna go for the technics wand just to have the flexibility with the head-shell even though I do like the look of the stock. Just thinking I would like something not plastic.
Happy to help! I got a lot of info and help from forums and articles but yeah I definitely thought videos could help people as well I definitely think the technics arm wand is versatile and less wear ☺️
@@vintageboulton Was wondering. Do you know if there are major differences between the wands on the various technics turntables? Also, there seems to be a number of cheaper "dj" turntables available that have a wand that looks very, very similar in the way you said the Sherwood does. If it has an sme headshell connector and has the same general shape, weight , etc ... do you see an issue with these? I live in London so are there a number of cheap, used options out there but just not sure which to go with.
@@michaelpurgatori117 the effective length of the XB is 229mm so if you search a specific Technics model on www.hifiengine.com it should tell you that info. Anything around about the same should work fine because you can adjust the length(overhang) with the grub screw in the pivot block. I think there are some slight differences in build quality, you would hope a Technics Sl-1200 wand would be better built but I haven't ever felt much difference to be honest 😂 I just eyeballed the Sherwood tonearm. Most of those affordable DJ Turntables have tried to copy the Technics 1200 so it's a safe bet they'll have roughly the same wand length. I don't see an issue with these wands, I was impressed with the collar and I would have been happy to use the wand. Being slightly heavier wouldn't have made much of a difference, just a slight adjustment of the counterweight, depending on what cartridge you're using. Hope that helps ☺️
I used this exact size www.swissjewel.com/product/jewel-bearings/vee-jewels/v3-18/ However I have noticed some of the holes that the original delrin sits in vary in. If you have a set of calipers measure the diameter of the delrin first before extracting and ordering. Aim to buy the sapphire cup with a larger diameter than the existing hole, then you can drill it out. Better a snug fit ☺️
@@vintageboulton Ah right. I can see just from your video that I have one where the holes are smaller. Didn't catch it the first time around in your video where you note that. I'll have to get a measurement.
Good afternoon. Hope all is well on your end. Sorry, I've got a rambling question for you: I've got two second hand Stanton 150s. I've found kits to rewire the tonearms with a new pick-up connector from the UK (about £90 ea so they aren't that cheap), I've also found brand new replacement tonearms that cost more than twice the amount from the US (about US$215 ea) and I don't need to do anything except solder 5 wires and put in 3 screws to replace them. What are your thoughts on replacement vs rewiring for someone that hasn't done it before? I think the original owner of these decks was a cartridge licker so the pins look slightly pitted, also one of the decks tonearms looks like it's slightly bent downwards as the pick-up sits lower than the other deck on that one. I'm kinda leaning towards replacing them, rewiring and fixing them and then putting them into another set that I have that have completely broken tonearms (ebay purchase, got cash back so ended up with them for free.)
If it were me I would take the best parts from each to replace the broken parts, like the wand. These decks aren't very old so they really shouldn't need a rewire I think unless there's some frayed wiring somewhere. I would take the best headshell/socket including the wiring and put it through the best wand then re-solder at the tonearm base/terminal. If the pins or any contacts look worn just rub the good with some isopropyl alcohol and some Scotch Brite
Do you have any idea what the product is called that manufacturers put on lots of the screws in products alot in the 70s and 80s, it was usually green or red, it was used to stop screws from moving and it was hard and shattered when the screw was undone, sort of like when people use nailpolish to stop a screw from moving, except nailpolish doesn't shatter when the screw is turned, do you know what that product is called?
does it go by other names? threadlock to me suggests the same stuff you put on metal threads of bolts you want to stop from turning, the product I'm talking about you apply to the top of the screwhead, half touching the screwhead and the part it's screwed into, it doesn't go onto the threads.@@vintageboulton
Thanks for the wonderful video. It is helping me on my journey to restore an early AR XA. I'm going with the jewel bearings and cardas wire. Here in the States the shipping and general costs are much more affordable.
I love the background music and the humor too. (Yippy, another thing that can go wrong. :-P ). Great work and hello to down under!
Well done. I have a couple of turntable projects which need attention. Thanks for some inspiration.
That's awesome, you've made my day 😊
Great info you shared! Thanks!
Great vid! I want to do the rewire mod to my AR XA but I’m hasitating. Got the Technics want and the wires already but I’m not confident with my soldering skills. Your vid makes it look easy. Thanks for motivation!
I agree, it is daunting. You could practice on the technics wand a few times before taking apart the XA arm
fun stuff - my first T'table way back when was an AR.... quickly learned Manuel T'table was not for me, full auto handled the critical needle / LP contact better than my hands, especially if enhancements were used. got a Pioneer that after 45 years runs great still, to me. quality. I butchered the installation of a new cart.,( I'm 73. hands shake etc ) breaking one of the 4 tiny wires / contacts to back of T'table. presto, T'table worth about 2 cents - they didn't use the technics / SME fairly easy wire replace. unbelievable. So I'm looking to replace the tiny wires from cart. back under T'arm pivot. yea, sure. of course elect. repair shops have pretty totally vanished. I found burning the thin insulation off the tiny wires , match book matches is better than trying to cut / strip the insulation off. just for me of course.
Hello! Great video! What size ruby bearing did you order?
Just bought an xb for a project and honestly don't think I could even begin to undertake it without these vids. Might have some questions for you in the near term. Think I'm definitely gonna go for the technics wand just to have the flexibility with the head-shell even though I do like the look of the stock. Just thinking I would like something not plastic.
Happy to help! I got a lot of info and help from forums and articles but yeah I definitely thought videos could help people as well
I definitely think the technics arm wand is versatile and less wear ☺️
@@vintageboulton Was wondering. Do you know if there are major differences between the wands on the various technics turntables? Also, there seems to be a number of cheaper "dj" turntables available that have a wand that looks very, very similar in the way you said the Sherwood does. If it has an sme headshell connector and has the same general shape, weight , etc ... do you see an issue with these? I live in London so are there a number of cheap, used options out there but just not sure which to go with.
@@michaelpurgatori117 the effective length of the XB is 229mm so if you search a specific Technics model on www.hifiengine.com it should tell you that info. Anything around about the same should work fine because you can adjust the length(overhang) with the grub screw in the pivot block. I think there are some slight differences in build quality, you would hope a Technics Sl-1200 wand would be better built but I haven't ever felt much difference to be honest 😂
I just eyeballed the Sherwood tonearm. Most of those affordable DJ Turntables have tried to copy the Technics 1200 so it's a safe bet they'll have roughly the same wand length. I don't see an issue with these wands, I was impressed with the collar and I would have been happy to use the wand. Being slightly heavier wouldn't have made much of a difference, just a slight adjustment of the counterweight, depending on what cartridge you're using.
Hope that helps ☺️
Great vid. Cheers
Thankyou 🙏
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Where did you find the bearing?
Hello
What is the part number for the sapphire pivot jewel from the Swiiss Company
Thanks Anthony
What size Jewel Cup Bearings were you using?
Was wondering what specific jewel bearing you would recommend for this?
I used this exact size www.swissjewel.com/product/jewel-bearings/vee-jewels/v3-18/
However I have noticed some of the holes that the original delrin sits in vary in. If you have a set of calipers measure the diameter of the delrin first before extracting and ordering. Aim to buy the sapphire cup with a larger diameter than the existing hole, then you can drill it out. Better a snug fit ☺️
@@vintageboulton Ah right. I can see just from your video that I have one where the holes are smaller. Didn't catch it the first time around in your video where you note that. I'll have to get a measurement.
Bearings look like the same ones in my PL-530 Pioneer.
Good afternoon. Hope all is well on your end. Sorry, I've got a rambling question for you: I've got two second hand Stanton 150s. I've found kits to rewire the tonearms with a new pick-up connector from the UK (about £90 ea so they aren't that cheap), I've also found brand new replacement tonearms that cost more than twice the amount from the US (about US$215 ea) and I don't need to do anything except solder 5 wires and put in 3 screws to replace them. What are your thoughts on replacement vs rewiring for someone that hasn't done it before? I think the original owner of these decks was a cartridge licker so the pins look slightly pitted, also one of the decks tonearms looks like it's slightly bent downwards as the pick-up sits lower than the other deck on that one.
I'm kinda leaning towards replacing them, rewiring and fixing them and then putting them into another set that I have that have completely broken tonearms (ebay purchase, got cash back so ended up with them for free.)
If it were me I would take the best parts from each to replace the broken parts, like the wand. These decks aren't very old so they really shouldn't need a rewire I think unless there's some frayed wiring somewhere.
I would take the best headshell/socket including the wiring and put it through the best wand then re-solder at the tonearm base/terminal.
If the pins or any contacts look worn just rub the good with some isopropyl alcohol and some Scotch Brite
@@vintageboulton Awesome, I'll give that a go. Thanks heaps for the reply. Hope you have a good Christmas.
Do you have any idea what the product is called that manufacturers put on lots of the screws in products alot in the 70s and 80s, it was usually green or red, it was used to stop screws from moving and it was hard and shattered when the screw was undone, sort of like when people use nailpolish to stop a screw from moving, except nailpolish doesn't shatter when the screw is turned, do you know what that product is called?
Threadlock
does it go by other names? threadlock to me suggests the same stuff you put on metal threads of bolts you want to stop from turning, the product I'm talking about you apply to the top of the screwhead, half touching the screwhead and the part it's screwed into, it doesn't go onto the threads.@@vintageboulton
@@nickfatsis9607 hmmmm not sure then, sounds like the same thing could be used or yeah nail polish