I've been looking at raised bed options that you assemble such as those made of metal and PVC. After watching your video it's clear that making them with cement is the superior option. This looks so much better, by far. I'm going to do a cement raised planter. Although I kinda wish you provided more detailed information in writing as far as instructions go.
These are pretty much perfect! Thick enough to be sturdy but not so much of a lip that it would interfere with gardening. A lot of work up front but they look like they'll (last longer than) a lifetime. Been considering doing the same for my garden and you pretty much sold me on it.
I think cinder blocks are too thick and more important with less space, so this width is very good to sit on the edge and not worry of damage, yet slimmer. Also height is good, and makes it less chance for animals to jump up on, and easy to sit and garden on. What makes them look even better is the framing around them with the pebbles-gravel.
This is exactly what I want to make here in my garden in Ireland. Thanks for going to the trouble of making the video. Can I ask about your footing ? Is it just concrete blocks in the ground or is there a foundation under them ? Also, Have there been any issues arise since completion that you would change? Thanks again their gorgeous
perfect! I'm going to make a 4x4 (I just want a little garden) and with the price of lumber in 2022, I figure it will only cost me $4K for a 4x4! lol. I see you made it 18" deep. I have rocky soil---caliche with big boulders----would 24" deep be better? I'm not sure. Thoughts? Thanks for the video and dimensions with how how many bags you used.
These are beautiful. Any chance you'd be able to provide some details on the building of the forms before you got to pouring the cement? Attempting this from an enthusiast perspective, so whatever seems obvious is probably going to blindside me once I attempt.
The forms should be strong and well-braced, but able to be deconstructed once concrete is cured. Flowing concrete exerts an incredible force, particularly if you are vibrating to control air pockets. 3/4 inch plywood (melamine on the outside leaves a smoother surface) is probably a minimum. Then brace it all around. Then double the bracing. Then double it again. Always use a form release (we used linseed oil thinned with paint thinner).
Something that thin would not allow for rebar re-enforcement. You might be able to do it using a glass-fiber-reinforced process. Some serious research on concrete strengths and weakness is warranted before diving in. Melamine is particleboard laminated with a thermally fused paper/resin coating to provide a durable hard surface. As a form board it results in a relatively smooth concrete surface.
@@middlemountainmuser4166 These are so good, im going to give them ago. is the middle just plywood? Also have you just run a piece of wood round the outside to keep it all together. did you also seal the joints. how did you get it so smooth, do you use concrete with small pebbles or could you use the standard ballast (sand and cement). sorry about the questions im just want them to look as good as these!!!!
they look nice, and i'm guessing the cheapest and longest lasting option. why OSB on inside? i would think melamine would be easier to take out. what's the wall thickness? looks about 3-4". i wonder if 2" would work?
Just poured 2.5" one last week. Wouldn't recommend going any thinner than that. It was stupid hard to get the rebar centered in the form because there was no wiggle room. The thin walls look great, but I think on the next ones I do, I'm going 3" minimum
Those are some monumental planters. Do you get frost heave in your area? I was wondering if the soil would expand and crack the concrete when it freezes inside the planter? Do you think a 2 1/2" thick planter would be sufficient?
They have survived four winters with lows reaching to zero F without a crack or any noticeable movement. The rebar and fiber is intended to limit and control cracking and the block footings are intended to provide some stability to deeper and firmer ground while allowing for some minor movement.
Very nice job. Any chance you are willing to tell us which concrete mix (pre-mixed bags or mix your own?) you used and also the ratio of the colorants used? I am researching to have this nice outcome on my project. Thank you.
do you think this same structure can hold water instead of dirt? i am planning to build it for storing water but not sure if it will be strong enough to hold the water.
Strength isn't the issue. Not having a bottom is. These planters were made to drain water, not hold it. That said, four inches of reinforced concrete should be quite sufficient to hold water, if there is a sealed bottom.
@@middlemountainmuser4166 thanks. I will be laying pond liner inside. Also there will be no direct contact between concrete and water. I was just curious about the strength.
@@baris222 it has been years since school, but I do know that concrete is mostly rated for compression. The rebar is what does the majority of holding the tension. Since the water would be on the inside pressing out, it's mostly tension, AKA pulling the thing apart. I'd definitely look into using more rebar.
I know this an old video, but I hope you read this: how long after pouring and finishing did you fill the planters with soil? Do they need to cure for a month first?
I've been looking at raised bed options that you assemble such as those made of metal and PVC. After watching your video it's clear that making them with cement is the superior option. This looks so much better, by far. I'm going to do a cement raised planter. Although I kinda wish you provided more detailed information in writing as far as instructions go.
maybe the cement paint is toxic
These are pretty much perfect! Thick enough to be sturdy but not so much of a lip that it would interfere with gardening. A lot of work up front but they look like they'll (last longer than) a lifetime. Been considering doing the same for my garden and you pretty much sold me on it.
Love it! Thanks!
What made the concrete look so dark? It looks amazing was it just regular 80 pound concrete bags?
Beautiful raise bed!!
I like the look and concept behind these, but what is stopping the deer and rabbits from eating your crops?
Looks great but seems a lot of work!
I think cinder blocks are too thick and more important with less space, so this width is very good to sit on the edge and not worry of damage, yet slimmer. Also height is good, and makes it less chance for animals to jump up on, and easy to sit and garden on. What makes them look even better is the framing around them with the pebbles-gravel.
Great job, how did you suspend the top row of rebar? Also, What purpose do the block footings ultimately serve?
Nice job!
Very nicely done!
Muito Obrigado!
Por favor qual traço da argamassa? Proporção de areia para o cimento?
Obrigado
Did you use a concrete mix or portland cement?
How much did it cost to make these?? And not sure about some of the steps I can’t tell what exactly it is you are doing
Hi, what tool and disc did you use to sand and polish the concrete? how long after pouring the concrete? merci
I really like these. I've been considering doing something similar!
This is exactly what I want to make here in my garden in Ireland. Thanks for going to the trouble of making the video. Can I ask about your footing ? Is it just concrete blocks in the ground or is there a foundation under them ? Also, Have there been any issues arise since completion that you would change? Thanks again their gorgeous
Hot damn. Those look really nice.
perfect! I'm going to make a 4x4 (I just want a little garden) and with the price of lumber in 2022, I figure it will only cost me $4K for a 4x4! lol. I see you made it 18" deep. I have rocky soil---caliche with big boulders----would 24" deep be better? I'm not sure. Thoughts? Thanks for the video and dimensions with how how many bags you used.
what was the diameter and spacing of rebars?
What are the footings for the rebar?
Awesome idea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gorgeous
great sharing
These are beautiful. Any chance you'd be able to provide some details on the building of the forms before you got to pouring the cement? Attempting this from an enthusiast perspective, so whatever seems obvious is probably going to blindside me once I attempt.
The forms should be strong and well-braced, but able to be deconstructed once concrete is cured. Flowing concrete exerts an incredible force, particularly if you are vibrating to control air pockets. 3/4 inch plywood (melamine on the outside leaves a smoother surface) is probably a minimum. Then brace it all around. Then double the bracing. Then double it again. Always use a form release (we used linseed oil thinned with paint thinner).
Cheaper by the dozen. Buy good wood to make forms, so making more beds makes it worth while.
The noise!
what did you seal the inside of concrete with? I assume it was something safe that wouldn't contaminate any vegetables you grew.
no sealer on the inside
We have concrete 6x8x16 blocks priced at 2.03 each. What would the cheapest way?
I love to have this in my backyard. Wondering what thickness is the planter?
See dimensions at beginning of video
Hi these are great, for smaller beds could you potentially use width of only 2inch? also what is Melamine form?
Something that thin would not allow for rebar re-enforcement. You might be able to do it using a glass-fiber-reinforced process. Some serious research on concrete strengths and weakness is warranted before diving in. Melamine is particleboard laminated with a thermally fused paper/resin coating to provide a durable hard surface. As a form board it results in a relatively smooth concrete surface.
@@middlemountainmuser4166 These are so good, im going to give them ago. is the middle just plywood? Also have you just run a piece of wood round the outside to keep it all together. did you also seal the joints. how did you get it so smooth, do you use concrete with small pebbles or could you use the standard ballast (sand and cement). sorry about the questions im just want them to look as good as these!!!!
they look nice, and i'm guessing the cheapest and longest lasting option. why OSB on inside? i would think melamine would be easier to take out.
what's the wall thickness? looks about 3-4". i wonder if 2" would work?
Just poured 2.5" one last week. Wouldn't recommend going any thinner than that. It was stupid hard to get the rebar centered in the form because there was no wiggle room. The thin walls look great, but I think on the next ones I do, I'm going 3" minimum
what was the final cost in materials for a planter like that??
Didn't track it. Other than 20 bags of concrete most of the material, particularly for the forms, was already on hand.
Those are some monumental planters. Do you get frost heave in your area? I was wondering if the soil would expand and crack the concrete when it freezes inside the planter? Do you think a 2 1/2" thick planter would be sufficient?
They have survived four winters with lows reaching to zero F without a crack or any noticeable movement. The rebar and fiber is intended to limit and control cracking and the block footings are intended to provide some stability to deeper and firmer ground while allowing for some minor movement.
Any problems with alkalinity in your soil so far?
Not that we are aware of
How many concrete bag you used?
He lists the number of bags used in the video
Very nice job. Any chance you are willing to tell us which concrete mix (pre-mixed bags or mix your own?) you used and also the ratio of the colorants used? I am researching to have this nice outcome on my project. Thank you.
We use high-strength concrete in 80 lbs. bags with 3.5 oz of black oxide and 7.5 oz or carbon black per bag. It's always best to do test runs.....
Thank you for the response and info!
I wonder if you could get the same result by building it from cement blocks and then stuccoing afterwards
concrete blocks are thicker
@@fluffychoclate6642 yeah I was going to use the 4x8x16 ones
do you think this same structure can hold water instead of dirt? i am planning to build it for storing water but not sure if it will be strong enough to hold the water.
Strength isn't the issue. Not having a bottom is. These planters were made to drain water, not hold it. That said, four inches of reinforced concrete should be quite sufficient to hold water, if there is a sealed bottom.
@@middlemountainmuser4166 thanks. I will be laying pond liner inside. Also there will be no direct contact between concrete and water. I was just curious about the strength.
@@baris222 it has been years since school, but I do know that concrete is mostly rated for compression. The rebar is what does the majority of holding the tension. Since the water would be on the inside pressing out, it's mostly tension, AKA pulling the thing apart. I'd definitely look into using more rebar.
Where nice jobb! But how did you make it black/grey without painting it? It where allready grey when frame came off :)
Integral color was achieved by adding black oxide and carbon black powdered dyes to the concrete as it was mixed.
@@middlemountainmuser4166 wow! Do you know what the portion was per bag of concrete? Thank you
@@annasophia7977 3.5 oz of black oxide and 7.5 oz or carbon black per 80 lbs. bag. It's always best to do test runs before committing to one formula.
Will this work is the bottom is concrete?
If you had a concrete base, you'd need to provide drainage holes.
The only problem with this is you have to make sure its placed where you want it cause you can't pick it up and move it .
What about drainage?
It looks like he left the bottom on bare soil, so it should drain fine unless he has poor draining soil
Ok, I see the mix answer.
Looks cool, but the high pitch noise hurt my ears
I know this an old video, but I hope you read this: how long after pouring and finishing did you fill the planters with soil? Do they need to cure for a month first?
Too much work. Just use a cinder block or pavers. Done. Let the gardening begins
👎👎👎👎