I bought your plans and built the forms, making only slight modifications (instead of fir 4x4 I built that part with the plywood by building 2.5 x 2.5 box). The forms worked great, I have poured four 4 foot panels so far and will be making quite a few more. You videos are great, the idea awesome and your plans were easy to follow. The only other change I made was to use mineral oil as my wood finish leaving out the polyurethane. I did this since I am using mineral oil for my form release anyway and for this type of project I think the oil will provide a superior finish over polyurethane. Thanks for the idea and plans!
I am a union structural concrete form work carpenter. For a living I build architectural form work and have been thinking of building poured in place board form garden beds this idea has just blown my mind!!! To build this way fixes my dilemma of ever having to move my garden beds you just solved the most massive hold back in that if I poured my beds monolithic moving them without a tractor would be next to impossible... absolutely great idea to build them modular like this can open up so much more into shape of the beds as well!!! Love it!!!
I also was a concrete carpenter retired 37 years local 22 San Francisco , I've been thinking about forming up some concrete fence post, because they always rot off right at the base, but my concern is the weight....Your thoughts.
Concrete posts are common in UK. Climate doesn't suit wooden posts! An 8ft post - for a standard 6ft fence - weighs 29kg (64 pounds). So a two man job - with gloves! Concrete posts are made over here with slots for the fence panels, so no need to fix them to posts, just slide in.
@@bluesfan51 concrete posts are becoming more common in Idaho. Rot affects posts in irrigated areas, and wildfire in others. We even have concrete rails for a decorative 3-rail fence that won't burn in typical range fires. (The other primary fireproof style uses steel tube for rails and sometimes posts.)
If you want to reduce the sides sinking into the soil (which they will over years), you can lay the sides onto pavers (like 2" thick 8" wide x 16" long) to give it a wider surface area.
I am also am a journeyman carpenter and an retired , I worked all my live on many concrete form system and I can tell you that you are doing a very high quality product as any professional would do Good job and thanks for the video
These ready-made concrete elements have been available in Germany for a long time. I purchased some well over 30 years ago, they are still going strong. The only problem with them is weight, my German ones are one metre thirteen cms long by forty cms high and six cms thick. (44.5 ins * 15.7ins * 2.36ins) They are pretty hefty but they last for ever. I'd guess they weigh about 50Kgms each. Yours are a bit smaller and thus a lot more elegant. I wish I had a workshop as well-equipped as yours but seeing as I don't I can only admire your work. Well done.
That was fun to watch...… and exhausting. Sell the mold forms pre-made or a kit with all the parts for easy assembly by "normal" people who have a tool box not a shop...….. and you could get RICH ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Great modular idea. I would suggest using form ply if you're going to go to the trouble of making this. It is specifically made for forming concrete and as such has a very smooth, anti-corrosive surface. It will last a lot longer with less maintenance.
This is excellent, not just the idea, but how to make concrete moulds in general. Also reducing the amount of arsenic treated wood in vege patches is a major win.
@@grifterx2567 Same in Australia unfortunately. There are restrictions on where it can be used; but most people are unaware and just go for cheap/free timber
I'm a concrete form Carpenter I enjoyed the video thank you. You can probably get away without Using caulking and sealant and polyurethane. . Clean up edges with file or mason disc on grinder .Buy some mdo board very reusable for a long time. Instead of screwing you form together consider clamping method to make it easier to take apart and put together. Form oil works really good I'm just about any wood. We reuse forms for construction jobs for months in repetitive concrete form pours on a job. Something to consider.
I have use panels like that and different sizes for over 20 years. At least once a week I would get a order to repair one.I wish I saw this video 20 years ago. Bravo
For anyone thinking about building them any bigger, keep in mind a regular bag of sacrete is almost a hundred pounds. His size is perfect. Any larger would need to be done with air-crete, where foam is injected into the mix. Or styrofoam pellets are used for fillers to reduce weight.
Great video. Couple things to consider: 1) fiber reinforced concrete is far superior to rebar/meshing. Rebar/meshing will rust; 2) epoxy coated rebar fails worse than regular rebar. Fiberglass rebar is superior in these scenarios.
This is by far one of the most thorough, complete and practical DIY videos I have view! Easy to watch, you have a very pleasant speaking voice and the end results look fantastic. I think I may add a cement coloring powder to avoid the gray of the cement look just to dress it up a little. Thank you for this terrific idea.
I did it. And receive first harvest. I have 4 form: 2 from crap plywood and 2 from steel angels and ground treat 12x2" plank. Forms from plywood will be dead after 20 attempts, I think.@@crforfreedom7407
It’s nice to watch a great video that was well thought out, educational, and high quality. Great job. Nice project. The tips that beginners wouldn’t know were nice also. Like wet concrete being corrosive and not to use standard caulk because it’s too strong to get an easy release. I like taller beds so I’d modify the plans accordingly. I’d estimate a bed 4x8 and 16 inches tall to need two bags of concrete per mold. 6 panels needed. 12 bags at $5 is $60 for concrete and a couple pieces of rebar. Inexpensive, long lasting bed that can be removed and installed elsewhere if I move or change the layout of my garden. Great work!
Thank you for one of the most professional, detailed, and complete instructional presentations I've ever watched. My only recommendation is that you don't change anything and that you continue to give us more of your excellent videos!
This is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to share. I have spent all winter thinking about how I want to make raised beds and this is by far the best idea I have seen!
I’m in the same boat Cheryl, I think I’m going to pull the trigger and build these as my next project. I might even sell some of the blocks to help pay for the time and materials that went into building them in the first place.
That’s what I want to do as well. I can’t wait to build these. It’s certainly not very cost effective once you factor in time and materials but I feel like it’s worth it for rot free, beautiful, custom beds.
@@GingerBear88 It would be cost effective if you are going to build a lot of these panels for a lot of raised garden beds. Combine the techniques used here with this other guys video such as using melamine finished boards with prefinished smooth surface and flow control concrete additive. >> ua-cam.com/video/T7mYB6x68DY/v-deo.html The other thing you could do is rent/lend the molds out after you are done with them. Just give people a link to this video as instructions. at 10 bucks per day rental fees I bet you could make some decent coin. Put ads in Craigslist and I bet you could have these forms rented out the entire spring and much of the summer. I would just sell the finished panels at 20.00 each though.
@@GingerBear88 If you consider how long these will last, I think you'll find the effort is well worth it. I don't know for sure but it could probably last 50 years!
I made 6 to create a 4x8 for my mom and they're great! I'm planning to get a cheap/used concrete mixer and modify dewalt sanders/oscillating tools to vibrate the air out. You also may want to use some cheap mesh reinforcement because one of mine cracked in half and had to be epoxied together.
Great idea. Use melamine and you'll get great results too. Cheaper than ply and you don't have to treat it. Just some oil. I made some melamine molds and it works
Thanks! And yes!! Melamine is a great option. I too have had good results with it. I'd seal any exposed chip board or wood from the cut melamine laminated sheets with polyurethane to help waterproof them. Any moisture has a tendency to swell particle or chip board. Cheers, Kent
@@Malmioo that would be good for about one season and if you had a controlled environment to keep them in. Anything like that where I am though the humidity would kill it unless it was fully sealed everywhere. Tape would be all right if you're just going to use it a couple times. Otherwise I'd stick with ply.
@@jonnymiskatonic That assumes you have the room to store these molds long term or you plan to make more. The big bonus with making these is that they are concrete and will last much longer than wood. Is it worth saving the mold for 20 years or more before you need to replace the garden bed, if you have limited space? The cheap and dirty version of this mold makes sense for me. Melamine was what I was thinking too.
@@MANaboutTOOLS Once you make 2 molds you could make fiberglass casts of them and molds of those casts so they last much longer than wood. You could most likely sell the fiberglass molds too :)
Great job. I put 1/4" Stainless steel hardware cloth under my raised beds to deter moles. Mine are relatively new ...but when they start to rot...I may be building forms.
Fantastic idea/product/instructional video and plans (available per your link). I'm a big time DIY (even built my own house on undeveloped land) and really like this solution for long term raised beds. And the bonus that they can be taken down, moved/relocated easily. I do have one suggestion/modification for you to consider. Really simple but I think some people would really want. If you cut a slight V notch in the wooden form that creates the bottom and you add a V shaped strip to the form that makes the top of the finished block you will then have pieces that are stackable. I know the rebar already does effectively the same thing by tying the blocks together but with only this slight modification you have a more fitted assembly when stacked. Again great idea and instructions.
@@gordbaker896 You can grow more per ft with raised beds, it also requires less upkeep etc. Soil also never gets compacted, requires less fertlizer/weeding and walking paths
I am building a new home and my family wanted to do a project in the back yard. This is perfect. I think I will add some color to the cement and maybe add some decorative accents to the center insert to further add to the piece. I am a decent woodworker and can figure out my own dimensions but I will buy your plans on principal and contribute to a fellow builder. Thanks for a very well put together video.
Kent, methinks 11:50 that wood putty rather cures than ‘dries’, although it is true that when it is cured, it will be dry. The distinction is important for people to understand. Concrete, for example, takes many days to cure and must be kept wet until is is cured. You might want to let those concrete panels sit in a bath of water while they cure. If you screw the inset panel from the other side, you won’t need to countersink the and putty them. Edit: I recommend removing organic material from the surface of the soil before filling the box. Fill the concrete box with local soil that is the same as the soil underneath. Only put compost on the surface of the bed. Do not mix compost into the soil. Mulch on top of the compost. You’re welcome. Great video!
With a bit more planning you can build a house this way. Mix a type of fiber for R value in cement and build a house like LEGOS. You would need to put mortar between the blocks for integral strength. Of course roof and floors would be built the traditional way.
That is a cool idea! As all the haters are too quick to point out there are cheaper and easier ways to create a planter box but you method looks more thought out than those. Anyone can go to the big box home store and buy any number of off the shelf materials to build planter boxes that in the end look exactly like you picked it up at the home center.. I prefer the "hey, where did you get those?" inspired type projects. Good work.
I expect a wooden garden box to last about 3 years. I've got some cinder block garden boxes now that have been going strong for 3 years already. With literally no maintenance. But when I build new ones i'm going to do something like this. Thank you!
3 years? What kind of wood are you using, balsa? Even non-treated wood can is going to last 5-10 years without significant rot. Pressure treated wood on the higher end of that range if not more. Cinderblocks are going to last a lifetime.
I made my garden box's from synthetic wood decking material and stainless steel screws. It took me 30 minutes total and I even buried one and after 10 years in NY. It was fine. If I put this much time into a project, I would be retired or hit the lottery
You've got my dream tool setup. This is the best-made vid up anywhere on YT bc your graphics made it all clear, your narration moved along smooth, efficient and clear. The perfect vid technique and I've seen a couple thousand vids.
@@downbntout , agreed, he's very fluid and easy to follow. My pet peeve on other videos is listening to nose breathing for the entire video. This guy sounds professional.
I like how this video is simple, everything explained and nicely edited for anyone to understand it. I would mention to anyone who makes these, to pour water on concrete for a few days (few times a day even, depending on your climate conditions) because of cement hydration (water evaporates, concrete gets hotter and cracks can show up if not watered).
Thank you for a very informative video. I especially liked that you took safety more seriously than many DIY builders with safety eye and ear protection and using a push stick on the table saw cuts. I also liked that you included the small details that most don't bother with. These details will make it much easier for someone to follow your procedure and make their projects seem so worry free. Liked and subscribed.
I'm planning to move my garden to another location and was not looking forward to making another wood box k owing it would rot out in a few seasons. I've got a pallet of bagged concrete that I scored from work. I know what in using some of it for now. This is awesome!
@@LuggageStardate Thanks for your input. I do a bit of gardening and I grow apples and red currents birds are a nightmare so for the last few years I have used tin foil on bamboo sticks and it works a treat. I live in Europe so it maybe different in the US. 😀
A great idea for long-lasting garden boxes. I'll definitely hold onto this video. Being that the molds are reusable, it does occur to be that instead of using holddown screws to fasten the sides and ends to the base plate one could pilot holes straight through, enlarge on the base plate, install blind nuts, and use stainless bolts to secure the molds together.
@@MANaboutTOOLS I wouldn't really call my suggestion an 'improvement'. It's just an idea I had to make the molds last longer. The basic design really is excellent.
what about using long pipe clamps or large C clamps for quick release, no wear and tear dealing w screws, etc also, line the inside of the mold w plastic to prevent wood rot if using for mass production.
@@sonnelson3 My first panels have survived 6 years. We do get freezing temps here on the west coast but not as severe as other places. Perhaps adding a inner tube thickness of rubber gasket at the joints during assembly will provide some "give" and help prevent cracking. Also, fill the pipe holes with silicone to keep water from pooling in there. Covering the joints with a bit of plastic sheeting during the winter would help too. Thanks for your comment, Kent
Hi, really enjoy your idea, the product and the fact your willing to share with the public. I'm not trying to be picky but I'd like to make 2 suggestions. This is coming from over 3 decades of concrete and masony. 1) the wire twisted around the pipe is spot on in concept. However, the space between the wire and the PVC sleeve is way to small. I'd suggest wrapping around a larger pipe to get the most space you can w out getting close to the exterior surface. Theres s lot of reasons why and specific space but for your purpose just get a gap/space. 2) instead of the 6x6 or 10x10 wire in the main body. Consider expanded metal. There are various sizes but it will be much stronger. So. That's just my opinion and the way I'd do it. Yours are really a great product. Thx for sharing
Good ideas. This stuff gets my creative juices flowing. I want to improve and do cool things. I hear people talking about adding designs. I came across ua-cam.com/video/PVK252n-SyI/v-deo.html talking about fast setting concrete additives. Appreciate the ideas on the expanded metal and such. The PVC holes and such are smart. Thanks.
Dear Man about tools. First thank you so much for the beautifully made and in-depth video. Your design, proficiency and ease of instructions make this 60 year old grandmother looking forward to the next warm weather days around the corner from winter. I had a question and thought that this may have been asked plenty of times so started to look through the comments. Sir you have my deepest respect for continuing to share your talent with those of us who can truly appreciate your art. I thought women were catty but what I saw from so many arm chair home improvement quarterbacks is appalling. These men, and apparently women, who do not have the character to make contributions of their own should be ashamed of themselves. So enough of that because giving any more time to these Cretans is wasteful. My question is what would be your suggestion to making taller molds? I would like to camouflage an area at my front walk that did not cover the form to my basement and adding soil will not do. Now to binge watching your other videos.
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. My mother often said, "If you don't have something nice to say then don't say anything at all." However, I am open to truly constructive criticism and I think we can all benefit from a discussion that leads to the betterment of all. I have received a ton of good comments and suggestions so I very much appreciate that. Taller concrete panels can get very heavy and difficult to work with. This design does allow you to stack them though. Maybe that's something to consider for your application. Thanks again for your comments! Kent
That was a great vid, Ken, and I loved the results. I'm going to use your methods to replace the brick surrounds of 2 raised beds in my garden (the bricks are completely frost shattered), but I'm going add waterproofing and some colour to my concrete mix - a nice shade of green maybe!
As long as you are going all out ... I would suggest doing fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin instead of the polyurethane. Fiberglass is really amazing and it is a nice technology to add to one's skill-stack.
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm overwhelmed by the positive reaction I've received from this project. The forms are not perfect, and I'm sure it's not the best solution. But, it's a starting point and if it sparks further innovation and ideas then that's all I need. Cheers, Kent
I am thinkin of getting 4 molds out of one sheet by shortening the length. That way they are a bit lighter and I don't en up with big orphan pieces of plywood in my limited space. Thanks for this video and making the plans available at a very reasonable price!!
never let lumber even treated lumber lie directly on the ground always have concrete blocks under them plastic sheet goods traps water against the lumber via condensation, loved the demo well done
Is concrete a suitable material to have near vegetables? I did some research on this as I wanted to build concrete raised beds and I was very confused by all the opinions. Any knowledgeable comments would be appreciated. Love your design!
Concrete contains lime. Over time this may slowly raise the pH of the soil in a grow bed and make it more alkaline. You can amend the soil accordingly to lower the pH for growing veggies. I don't see growing things near concrete a problem. Grass, weeds, trees, shrubs and even veggie plants grow next to our big wide cement driveways, sidewalks, patios and buildings without a problem.
It may make the soil more alkaline over time, but many vegetables do better on a slightly alkaline soil, so if you are on an acid soil it could be a benefit. harvesttotable.com/vegetable-crop-soil-ph-tolerances/
I make concrete caps for my retaining walls to vibrate the form I use a sawzall which I find is faster than a hammer. I also seal my form with several brush coats of urethane which allows me to use my forms on multiple pours
Wow…this is brilliant! It’s as if you read my mind. I have the same problem for years with wood box garden and this is the solution to my problem! Thank you!
@@77Avadon77 You could adjust the dimensions or use multiple panels for bigger boxes. I agree it's a lot of work but so is building wood boxes several times
@@sociopathmercenary If you're not eating out of them, pressure treated works very well and lasts a very, very long time. If you're eating the food from them then you do need something like cement, rock, etc
Love the site and the videos! Looking forward to trying this one out and the firewood jig. I noticed you have a cool looking fence / gate system for the garden. Could you possibly cover this? Thanks!
I will be covering the fence and gate design and build. I'm very happy with how the gates worked out. It's always a challenge to hang a straight/square/plumb gate off a round post.
It wouldn't be terribly difficult to around over the tabs on the ends so that the panels can be pivoted to any angle, rather than just right and straight.
Generally, when you make beds for gardening. You want them straight rather than special forms. But you just need to make a 45 degree angle cutout for the sides to get that chamfer. Test with wood mock-up first for how big the 45 degree has to be. And ya be done.
I was thinking about that too. You're right, it probably wouldn't look as good. One thing that could be done is change the end tabs so that are thicker and cylindrical in shape --say 4 or 5 inches in diameter. Of course that would complicate the form but it would probably look good and add more strength to the connections.
Woohoo, the way your speak so clearly and smooth . I'm Mexican my English it is so poor , I'm understand all you say clear . Thank you Master from Mexico City greetings
I'm really happy how these concrete forms worked out. The first concrete panels I made 8 years ago are holding out well and I've had no issues with them at all. Those panels were 48" in length. In this video I'll make forms to cast a 36" panel. See written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-concrete-garden-boxes/ If you would like to support the channel and future content then please go here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools
Beautiful and excellent work! Thank you so much for the video. An idea: It is possible to add waterproofing to the concrete, so the plants will lose less water in the summer. Big hug!
Thank you. I thought you did a really great job with it. I don't think I have the time to build a jig and then do all the cement work, but I think someone else could sell those and I would buy them. I'd probably buy your jig just to save me time. Would you sell them?
You should make forms to sell or put them out at hardware's rentals places, I'd buy or rent them like right now!....then take them home and pour my own raised garden forms.
Being disabled I prefer my raised beds a little higher. So I was thinking how to raise your beds a little higher. Not too high due to the weight of the concrete but in this every inch counts. A few extra leg posts for more support, maybe set a little deeper. Bottom board made with a couple of layers of plywood or 2x12s secured together with a few 1x4 boards set on the leg posts with the 1x4s down. Covered with a sheet of formica to protect the bottom from rotting out. Maybe a few drain holes drilled then small tubes inserted and sealed with caulk. Drill holes for your rebar rods to go into, instead of the ground, to secure to walls to the bottom boards and maybe deep enough to enter the leg posts.
I now have molds ready-to-go here: manabouttools.com/store-plastic-concrete-molds/
I bought your plans and built the forms, making only slight modifications (instead of fir 4x4 I built that part with the plywood by building 2.5 x 2.5 box). The forms worked great, I have poured four 4 foot panels so far and will be making quite a few more. You videos are great, the idea awesome and your plans were easy to follow. The only other change I made was to use mineral oil as my wood finish leaving out the polyurethane. I did this since I am using mineral oil for my form release anyway and for this type of project I think the oil will provide a superior finish over polyurethane. Thanks for the idea and plans!
Boiled linseed oil is another possibility.
I am a union structural concrete form work carpenter. For a living I build architectural form work and have been thinking of building poured in place board form garden beds this idea has just blown my mind!!! To build this way fixes my dilemma of ever having to move my garden beds you just solved the most massive hold back in that if I poured my beds monolithic moving them without a tractor would be next to impossible... absolutely great idea to build them modular like this can open up so much more into shape of the beds as well!!! Love it!!!
Awesome!! Thank you so much for your comments here!
I also was a concrete carpenter retired 37 years local 22 San Francisco , I've been thinking about forming up some concrete fence post, because they always rot off right at the base, but my concern is the weight....Your thoughts.
Concrete posts are common in UK. Climate doesn't suit wooden posts! An 8ft post - for a standard 6ft fence - weighs 29kg (64 pounds). So a two man job - with gloves! Concrete posts are made over here with slots for the fence panels, so no need to fix them to posts, just slide in.
@@bluesfan51 concrete posts are becoming more common in Idaho. Rot affects posts in irrigated areas, and wildfire in others. We even have concrete rails for a decorative 3-rail fence that won't burn in typical range fires. (The other primary fireproof style uses steel tube for rails and sometimes posts.)
Love concrete posts. In the Ozarks a lot of people make corner and gate posts out of weld wire cylenders filled with our ubiquitous rocks. XD
If you want to reduce the sides sinking into the soil (which they will over years), you can lay the sides onto pavers (like 2" thick 8" wide x 16" long) to give it a wider surface area.
I am also am a journeyman carpenter and an retired , I worked all my live on many concrete form system and I can tell you that you are doing a very high quality product as any professional would do
Good job and thanks for the video
This has to be one of the smartest and greatest detailed step by step videos I’ve seen in a long time. Outstanding! Thank you!
These ready-made concrete elements have been available in Germany for a long time. I purchased some well over 30 years ago, they are still going strong. The only problem with them is weight, my German ones are one metre thirteen cms long by forty cms high and six cms thick. (44.5 ins * 15.7ins * 2.36ins) They are pretty hefty but they last for ever. I'd guess they weigh about 50Kgms each. Yours are a bit smaller and thus a lot more elegant. I wish I had a workshop as well-equipped as yours but seeing as I don't I can only admire your work. Well done.
That was fun to watch...… and exhausting. Sell the mold forms pre-made or a kit with all the parts for easy assembly by "normal" people who have a tool box not a shop...….. and you could get RICH ! ! ! ! ! ! !
I'll order the first premade kit. Please invoice me and I'll give you shipping details!!!
Me too.
Yup I'd take one
Me too
He has the plans for sell so you can do it yourself
Great modular idea. I would suggest using form ply if you're going to go to the trouble of making this. It is specifically made for forming concrete and as such has a very smooth, anti-corrosive surface. It will last a lot longer with less maintenance.
form ply?
@@kamiltukaev8833 Form ply is plywood specifically manufactured for building concrete forms.
@@ergohack a link to these would be awesome..
@@compubyte2010 To buy? I can only really help with what is available in Canada.
@@compubyte2010 you can get it at home depot and several other places online (depending on your location), just google formply (one word)
This is excellent, not just the idea, but how to make concrete moulds in general. Also reducing the amount of arsenic treated wood in vege patches is a major win.
Nobody uses arsenic. It’s micronized copper and perfectly safe for garden boxes.
Unfortunately there are some places still using CCA treatment, here in NZ it's still used by most mills as they won't change due to cost
@@grifterx2567 Same in Australia unfortunately. There are restrictions on where it can be used; but most people are unaware and just go for cheap/free timber
I'm a concrete form Carpenter I enjoyed the video thank you. You can probably get away without Using caulking and sealant and polyurethane. . Clean up edges with file or mason disc on grinder .Buy some mdo board very reusable for a long time. Instead of screwing you form together consider clamping method to make it easier to take apart and put together. Form oil works really good I'm just about any wood. We reuse forms for construction jobs for months in repetitive concrete form pours on a job. Something to consider.
I have use panels like that and different sizes for over 20 years. At least once a week I would get a order to repair one.I wish I saw this video 20 years ago. Bravo
For anyone thinking about building them any bigger, keep in mind a regular bag of sacrete is almost a hundred pounds. His size is perfect. Any larger would need to be done with air-crete, where foam is injected into the mix. Or styrofoam pellets are used for fillers to reduce weight.
Great video. Couple things to consider: 1) fiber reinforced concrete is far superior to rebar/meshing. Rebar/meshing will rust; 2) epoxy coated rebar fails worse than regular rebar. Fiberglass rebar is superior in these scenarios.
Ladder wire is fine.
This is by far one of the most thorough, complete and practical DIY videos I have view! Easy to watch, you have a very pleasant speaking voice and the end results look fantastic. I think I may add a cement coloring powder to avoid the gray of the cement look just to dress it up a little. Thank you for this terrific idea.
You can paint it in your favorite color without problems.
@@vikchem Just be sure to start this project about Oct or Nov to be sure to allow enough time to be ready for planting in the spring.🙄
I did it. And receive first harvest. I have 4 form: 2 from crap plywood and 2 from steel angels and ground treat 12x2" plank. Forms from plywood will be dead after 20 attempts, I think.@@crforfreedom7407
It’s nice to watch a great video that was well thought out, educational, and high quality. Great job. Nice project. The tips that beginners wouldn’t know were nice also. Like wet concrete being corrosive and not to use standard caulk because it’s too strong to get an easy release. I like taller beds so I’d modify the plans accordingly. I’d estimate a bed 4x8 and 16 inches tall to need two bags of concrete per mold. 6 panels needed. 12 bags at $5 is $60 for concrete and a couple pieces of rebar. Inexpensive, long lasting bed that can be removed and installed elsewhere if I move or change the layout of my garden. Great work!
Thank you for one of the most professional, detailed, and complete instructional presentations I've ever watched. My only recommendation is that you don't change anything and that you continue to give us more of your excellent videos!
Why thank you so much! I really appreciate the support and kind words! I will do my best. Kent
If you leave the rebar long you can utilize it for a pvc hoop house or pvc trellis
Good thinking!
or less for a hole for the pipe. less dangerous.
I was thinking the same thing.
Another great idea from a female rounding the pin ends for articulation and this. Very well done
Avoid sharpening the rebar, keep it as blunt as possible so it does maximum tissue damage when you fall on it. ;)
This is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to share. I have spent all winter thinking about how I want to make raised beds and this is by far the best idea I have seen!
Well thank you very much!
I’m in the same boat Cheryl, I think I’m going to pull the trigger and build these as my next project. I might even sell some of the blocks to help pay for the time and materials that went into building them in the first place.
you could even stack a few levels high using longer rebar to hold them in place.
That’s what I want to do as well. I can’t wait to build these. It’s certainly not very cost effective once you factor in time and materials but I feel like it’s worth it for rot free, beautiful, custom beds.
@@GingerBear88 It would be cost effective if you are going to build a lot of these panels for a lot of raised garden beds. Combine the techniques used here with this other guys video such as using melamine finished boards with prefinished smooth surface and flow control concrete additive. >> ua-cam.com/video/T7mYB6x68DY/v-deo.html
The other thing you could do is rent/lend the molds out after you are done with them. Just give people a link to this video as instructions. at 10 bucks per day rental fees I bet you could make some decent coin. Put ads in Craigslist and I bet you could have these forms rented out the entire spring and much of the summer. I would just sell the finished panels at 20.00 each though.
@@GingerBear88 If you consider how long these will last, I think you'll find the effort is well worth it. I don't know for sure but it could probably last 50 years!
I made 6 to create a 4x8 for my mom and they're great! I'm planning to get a cheap/used concrete mixer and modify dewalt sanders/oscillating tools to vibrate the air out. You also may want to use some cheap mesh reinforcement because one of mine cracked in half and had to be epoxied together.
@ 7:20 I think using them clamps is ingenious !! I really enjoy watching you use these tools in ways I never thought of before. Well done Sir!
Well thanks very much Jack! I really appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Kent
Great idea. Use melamine and you'll get great results too. Cheaper than ply and you don't have to treat it. Just some oil. I made some melamine molds and it works
Thanks! And yes!! Melamine is a great option. I too have had good results with it. I'd seal any exposed chip board or wood from the cut melamine laminated sheets with polyurethane to help waterproof them. Any moisture has a tendency to swell particle or chip board. Cheers, Kent
MAN about TOOLS you can just tape them
@@Malmioo that would be good for about one season and if you had a controlled environment to keep them in. Anything like that where I am though the humidity would kill it unless it was fully sealed everywhere. Tape would be all right if you're just going to use it a couple times. Otherwise I'd stick with ply.
@@jonnymiskatonic That assumes you have the room to store these molds long term or you plan to make more. The big bonus with making these is that they are concrete and will last much longer than wood. Is it worth saving the mold for 20 years or more before you need to replace the garden bed, if you have limited space? The cheap and dirty version of this mold makes sense for me. Melamine was what I was thinking too.
@@MANaboutTOOLS Once you make 2 molds you could make fiberglass casts of them and molds of those casts so they last much longer than wood. You could most likely sell the fiberglass molds too :)
Great job. I put 1/4" Stainless steel hardware cloth under my raised beds to deter moles. Mine are relatively new ...but when they start to rot...I may be building forms.
Read through the whole series before starting; things were learned and the design changed and improved.
Thanks!!
Fantastic idea/product/instructional video and plans (available per your link). I'm a big time DIY (even built my own house on undeveloped land) and really like this solution for long term raised beds. And the bonus that they can be taken down, moved/relocated easily. I do have one suggestion/modification for you to consider. Really simple but I think some people would really want. If you cut a slight V notch in the wooden form that creates the bottom and you add a V shaped strip to the form that makes the top of the finished block you will then have pieces that are stackable. I know the rebar already does effectively the same thing by tying the blocks together but with only this slight modification you have a more fitted assembly when stacked. Again great idea and instructions.
holy crap, i am never in a million years going to make those molds, but the beds look amazing
Just Roto-till , rake and plant. Raised beds dry out quickly, are a nuisance to mow around and needless.
@@gordbaker896 Raised grow beds have far more advantaged than disadvantages. Also utilizes growing space etc
@@travisedwards9983 Just exactly what do you mean by 'utilizes growing space etc"???
@@gordbaker896 You can grow more per ft with raised beds, it also requires less upkeep etc. Soil also never gets compacted, requires less fertlizer/weeding and walking paths
@@travisedwards9983 You have the same area at grade. No less upkeep, more watering required.
Same Fertilizer and weeding. Dream On . Walking paths?
I like your style. You Canadians are something else.
I am building a new home and my family wanted to do a project in the back yard. This is perfect. I think I will add some color to the cement and maybe add some decorative accents to the center insert to further add to the piece. I am a decent woodworker and can figure out my own dimensions but I will buy your plans on principal and contribute to a fellow builder. Thanks for a very well put together video.
Kent, methinks 11:50 that wood putty rather cures than ‘dries’, although it is true that when it is cured, it will be dry. The distinction is important for people to understand. Concrete, for example, takes many days to cure and must be kept wet until is is cured. You might want to let those concrete panels sit in a bath of water while they cure.
If you screw the inset panel from the other side, you won’t need to countersink the and putty them.
Edit: I recommend removing organic material from the surface of the soil before filling the box. Fill the concrete box with local soil that is the same as the soil underneath. Only put compost on the surface of the bed. Do not mix compost into the soil. Mulch on top of the compost.
You’re welcome. Great video!
ПРОСТО СУПЕР.
ДОЛГО ИСКАЛ ВАРИАНТ ПОДНЯТОЙ ГРЯДКИ И НАКОНЕЦ НАШЁЛ.
СПАСИБО ЗА ШИКАРНУЮ ИДЕЮ.
ВСЕГО ВАМ ХОРОШЕГО. 👍🤝
Kent:
Your concrete boxes are a great design! You are a thinker!
With a bit more planning you can build a house this way.
Mix a type of fiber for R value in cement and build a house like LEGOS.
You would need to put mortar between the blocks for integral strength.
Of course roof and floors would be built the traditional way.
This was one of the more informative video's online and I am planning to duplicate your work down to the last detail. Thank you.
@@dubayew3235 I do not understand your comment, of course I had the sound on.
That is a cool idea! As all the haters are too quick to point out there are cheaper and easier ways to create a planter box but you method looks more thought out than those. Anyone can go to the big box home store and buy any number of off the shelf materials to build planter boxes that in the end look exactly like you picked it up at the home center.. I prefer the "hey, where did you get those?" inspired type projects. Good work.
Thank you so much for that! I really appreciate the positive comments and support!
This is a lot of work. I’m going to just go the cinder block route. Thanks for the entertaining video!
I expect a wooden garden box to last about 3 years. I've got some cinder block garden boxes now that have been going strong for 3 years already. With literally no maintenance. But when I build new ones i'm going to do something like this. Thank you!
3 years? What kind of wood are you using, balsa? Even non-treated wood can is going to last 5-10 years without significant rot. Pressure treated wood on the higher end of that range if not more. Cinderblocks are going to last a lifetime.
I made my garden box's from synthetic wood decking material and stainless steel screws.
It took me 30 minutes total and I even buried one and after 10 years in NY. It was fine. If I put this much time into a project, I would be retired or hit the lottery
You've got my dream tool setup. This is the best-made vid up anywhere on YT bc your graphics made it all clear, your narration moved along smooth, efficient and clear. The perfect vid technique and I've seen a couple thousand vids.
Thank you so much for your kind words and support! I really appreciate that.
MAN about TOOLS
It was earned, sir, so I'm pleased to post it
@@downbntout , agreed, he's very fluid and easy to follow. My pet peeve on other videos is listening to nose breathing for the entire video. This guy sounds professional.
I liked the video but the speech inflection sounds like man imitating robot (unless it's some geographic dialect I'm not familiar with?).
I concur, well made video!
I like how this video is simple, everything explained and nicely edited for anyone to understand it.
I would mention to anyone who makes these, to pour water on concrete for a few days (few times a day even, depending on your climate conditions) because of cement hydration (water evaporates, concrete gets hotter and cracks can show up if not watered).
Silicon mold might be a good idea for making multiple pieces. And you can add more decorative features
Really like how you used tools instead of your hands to move the concrete, good job
Thank you for a very informative video. I especially liked that you took safety more seriously than many DIY builders with safety eye and ear protection and using a push stick on the table saw cuts. I also liked that you included the small details that most don't bother with. These details will make it much easier for someone to follow your procedure and make their projects seem so worry free. Liked and subscribed.
LOVE this! It's time to start replacing my wooden raised bed frames...I may just have to convert all my wooded frames to concrete.
Eastern Red Cedar is a LOT better than concrete for planter boxes.
I'm planning to move my garden to another location and was not looking forward to making another wood box k owing it would rot out in a few seasons. I've got a pallet of bagged concrete that I scored from work. I know what in using some of it for now. This is awesome!
I watched a similar video of the forms like yours made but made it using air-crete. just as durable, only lighter in weight.
Hello a great job on the veggie boxes. Add a colour dye to your concrete mix or crushed glass which will reflect in the sun to keep some birds away.
Great idea! Thanks!
@@LuggageStardate Thanks for your input. I do a bit of gardening and I grow apples and red currents birds are a nightmare so for the last few years I have used tin foil on bamboo sticks and it works a treat. I live in Europe so it maybe different in the US. 😀
Yep! That would be cool!
@@geezermann7865 Why? Because you're a low-information, low-education, Faux News viewer?
For a form you are going to reuse a number of times taking a few more minutes to put in some locator pins might be a good idea.
Long time Contractor here. You sir, just earned a Sub. Great video.
Thank you very much!
If you are wondering how good his drawings and plans are, I purchased this set, and they are easy to follow,
Smart guy, after use you can sell the molds and recoup your money. This type of product would be great for edging around flower beds.
This is great! You could use decorative images in that center panel.
Imagine one with the "last supper". lol
I was just thinking the same thing. Mosaic would be lovely; that's the beauty of this design, it could be personalized in so many ways. I love it.
Realmente lo felicito por la genial idea y la calidad con que realiza cada pieza. Me encantó 😍
It would be interesting to use aircrete to see how they would compare
A great idea for long-lasting garden boxes. I'll definitely hold onto this video.
Being that the molds are reusable, it does occur to be that instead of using holddown screws to fasten the sides and ends to the base plate one could pilot holes straight through, enlarge on the base plate, install blind nuts, and use stainless bolts to secure the molds together.
Thanks Don! And that is a great idea! There's many ways to improve on this design.
@@MANaboutTOOLS I wouldn't really call my suggestion an 'improvement'. It's just an idea I had to make the molds last longer. The basic design really is excellent.
This is amazing, if you are cheap and in a rush you can mold it right in place, that's what I'm doing for sure!
Great build. One tip. Maybe use machine screw inserts where you attach and disassemble the molds so you don't wear out the wood with wood screws.
That's a great tip!! Thank you!
what about using long pipe clamps or large C clamps for quick release, no wear and tear dealing w screws, etc
also, line the inside of the mold w plastic to prevent wood rot if using for mass production.
@@danmurphy4817 That's certainly an option too.
@@MANaboutTOOLS will they last in a freeze - thaw zone ?
@@sonnelson3 My first panels have survived 6 years. We do get freezing temps here on the west coast but not as severe as other places. Perhaps adding a inner tube thickness of rubber gasket at the joints during assembly will provide some "give" and help prevent cracking. Also, fill the pipe holes with silicone to keep water from pooling in there. Covering the joints with a bit of plastic sheeting during the winter would help too. Thanks for your comment, Kent
Wow! Professional quality video and craftsmanship. Clear, concise instructions. Breathe of fresh air. Thank you sir!! Liked and subbed
Great video! I can’t wait to try this. I’m thinking of using a router on the inset panels to make a design 😊
BRILLIANT INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO! HERE IN THE UK MOST PEOPLE WOULD USE BRICKS TO BUILD A BOX. 👍🏻😀
Cool I might consider this at my Florida home
Love the fretless bass
Sound track
Thanks! I so love the bass
@@MANaboutTOOLS Who was that on the bass? Its awesome!
Great idea! After looking at all the time it took making those I'm thinking about getting some made from hard plastic on a cnc machine.
Thanks! I'm sure there's ways of simplifying the construction for sure. Drop me a note if that works out. Cheers, Kent
Exactly, or maybe even aluminum.
That is ingenious and I will be trying this in the spring thanks for the great idea gave you thumbs up and subscribed nice tools by the way
Thank you very much!!
great idea video. youtube recommended this to me. thanks to youtube algo too 😁👍
Love this video, well done, great results!
Great Idea..Great Presentation! I truly can't understand why anyone clicking on this video would give it a thumbs down. THANKS!
Thanks Alan!
Hi, really enjoy your idea, the product and the fact your willing to share with the public. I'm not trying to be picky but I'd like to make 2 suggestions. This is coming from over 3 decades of concrete and masony.
1) the wire twisted around the pipe is spot on in concept. However, the space between the wire and the PVC sleeve is way to small. I'd suggest wrapping around a larger pipe to get the most space you can w out getting close to the exterior surface. Theres s lot of reasons why and specific space but for your purpose just get a gap/space.
2) instead of the 6x6 or 10x10 wire in the main body. Consider expanded metal. There are various sizes but it will be much stronger.
So. That's just my opinion and the way I'd do it.
Yours are really a great product.
Thx for sharing
Good ideas. This stuff gets my creative juices flowing. I want to improve and do cool things. I hear people talking about adding designs. I came across ua-cam.com/video/PVK252n-SyI/v-deo.html talking about fast setting concrete additives. Appreciate the ideas on the expanded metal and such. The PVC holes and such are smart. Thanks.
Dear Man about tools. First thank you so much for the beautifully made and in-depth video. Your design, proficiency and ease of instructions make this 60 year old grandmother looking forward to the next warm weather days around the corner from winter. I had a question and thought that this may have been asked plenty of times so started to look through the comments. Sir you have my deepest respect for continuing to share your talent with those of us who can truly appreciate your art. I thought women were catty but what I saw from so many arm chair home improvement quarterbacks is appalling. These men, and apparently women, who do not have the character to make contributions of their own should be ashamed of themselves. So enough of that because giving any more time to these Cretans is wasteful. My question is what would be your suggestion to making taller molds? I would like to camouflage an area at my front walk that did not cover the form to my basement and adding soil will not do. Now to binge watching your other videos.
Thank you very much for your kind words and support. My mother often said, "If you don't have something nice to say then don't say anything at all." However, I am open to truly constructive criticism and I think we can all benefit from a discussion that leads to the betterment of all. I have received a ton of good comments and suggestions so I very much appreciate that.
Taller concrete panels can get very heavy and difficult to work with. This design does allow you to stack them though. Maybe that's something to consider for your application. Thanks again for your comments! Kent
Add some iron oxide colorant to the concrete.
Hai
Really it's "Amazing Concrete Garden Box".. neately explained by .
Keep the good job done..
That was a great vid, Ken, and I loved the results. I'm going to use your methods to replace the brick surrounds of 2 raised beds in my garden (the bricks are completely frost shattered), but I'm going add waterproofing and some colour to my concrete mix - a nice shade of green maybe!
Thanks from Russia 🇷🇺 nice video. I hope to do that
Excellent job, very impressive, you could even add a concrete colourant to make it in any colour but doses would need to be very accurate.
Great design.. Love the video
Awesome job!!! I love the attention to detail,truly impressed. Thank you so much for the tutorial
Gives me an idea for an above ground pond. Video much appreciated thanks
Excellent... you could even use some colour in the concrete mix.
or incorporate holes to make compost boxes.....
As long as you are going all out ... I would suggest doing fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin instead of the polyurethane.
Fiberglass is really amazing and it is a nice technology to add to one's skill-stack.
You are a FRICK'EN GENIUS!! I LOVE THIS!! I SUBSCRIBED FOR MORE GREAT STUFF!
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm overwhelmed by the positive reaction I've received from this project. The forms are not perfect, and I'm sure it's not the best solution. But, it's a starting point and if it sparks further innovation and ideas then that's all I need. Cheers, Kent
Очень аккуратно. Но тяжелая. Возможно, есть смысл сделать из легкого наполнителя? Пенопласт, керамзит и тп.
one of the finest tutorials i have ever seen. really, really good. subbed!
I am thinkin of getting 4 molds out of one sheet by shortening the length. That way they are a bit lighter and I don't en up with big orphan pieces of plywood in my limited space. Thanks for this video and making the plans available at a very reasonable price!!
never let lumber even treated lumber lie directly on the ground always have concrete blocks under them plastic sheet goods traps water against the lumber via condensation, loved the demo well done
Is concrete a suitable material to have near vegetables? I did some research on this as I wanted to build concrete raised beds and I was very confused by all the opinions. Any knowledgeable comments would be appreciated. Love your design!
I'vd heard that concrete may contaminate the soil over time...
actually the concrete holds heat from the sun helping keep the soil and plants warm when night comes...
Concrete contains lime. Over time this may slowly raise the pH of the soil in a grow bed and make it more alkaline. You can amend the soil accordingly to lower the pH for growing veggies.
I don't see growing things near concrete a problem. Grass, weeds, trees, shrubs and even veggie plants grow next to our big wide cement driveways, sidewalks, patios and buildings without a problem.
It may make the soil more alkaline over time, but many vegetables do better on a slightly alkaline soil, so if you are on an acid soil it could be a benefit.
harvesttotable.com/vegetable-crop-soil-ph-tolerances/
I've heard of fly ash being used in concrete cinder blocks and that's supposed to be bas for plants but idk about concrete mixes
This gained you a sub.
Excellent video! Love the inset detail!
Impressive the on look y step I'd add is using an edger after you smooth it out so the corners don't break
I make concrete caps for my retaining walls to vibrate the form I use a sawzall which I find is faster than a hammer. I also seal my form with several brush coats of urethane which allows me to use my forms on multiple pours
Brilliant. You should team up with UA-camrs Gardener Scott, Millinnial Gardener, and MI Gardener.
You are a very patient man.genius!
Thanks you so much! I really appreciate the feedback I get.
Thank you for this! Nice work and nice job. Man! You got a lot of time on your hands. ;)
He looks like a farmer they have 7*24 hours on their hands. Things to do to make it better in the long run is not wasted time but managed time.
Great craftsmanship and a quality finish. Well thought out.
You are unbelievable! I just bought my first table saw but not quite ready for this project.
Wow…this is brilliant! It’s as if you read my mind. I have the same problem for years with wood box garden and this is the solution to my problem! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good work.. But far too much work involved for me and I don't have the tools for it anyway!
oh god wayyy to much work for that super tiny box!
@@77Avadon77 You could adjust the dimensions or use multiple panels for bigger boxes. I agree it's a lot of work but so is building wood boxes several times
@@sociopathmercenary If you're not eating out of them, pressure treated works very well and lasts a very, very long time. If you're eating the food from them then you do need something like cement, rock, etc
Love the site and the videos! Looking forward to trying this one out and the firewood jig. I noticed you have a cool looking fence / gate system for the garden. Could you possibly cover this? Thanks!
I will be covering the fence and gate design and build. I'm very happy with how the gates worked out. It's always a challenge to hang a straight/square/plumb gate off a round post.
And I look forward to learning all about it from you!
It wouldn't be terribly difficult to around over the tabs on the ends so that the panels can be pivoted to any angle, rather than just right and straight.
Generally, when you make beds for gardening. You want them straight rather than special forms. But you just need to make a 45 degree angle cutout for the sides to get that chamfer. Test with wood mock-up first for how big the 45 degree has to be. And ya be done.
Personally I like the lack of hole his version has. I want the seams as small as possible without any extra gaps.
I was thinking about that too. You're right, it probably wouldn't look as good. One thing that could be done is change the end tabs so that are thicker and cylindrical in shape --say 4 or 5 inches in diameter. Of course that would complicate the form but it would probably look good and add more strength to the connections.
You are the hero we need but not one we deserve!!!
Woohoo, the way your speak so clearly and smooth . I'm Mexican my English it is so poor , I'm understand all you say clear . Thank you Master from Mexico City greetings
Gracias!
nice design, well done
I'm really happy how these concrete forms worked out. The first concrete panels I made 8 years ago are holding out well and I've had no issues with them at all. Those panels were 48" in length. In this video I'll make forms to cast a 36" panel. See written instructions here: manabouttools.com/make-concrete-garden-boxes/ If you would like to support the channel and future content then please go here: www.patreon.com/manabouttools
fine skill & craftmanship. But how much will it cost to buy a concrete panel at home depot if they did sell them? 50.bucks a pop?
They look very good, any finish sanding required? Also is the soft roundover on the edges just due to the latex caulk?
Beautiful and excellent work! Thank you so much for the video.
An idea: It is possible to add waterproofing to the concrete, so the plants will lose less water in the summer.
Big hug!
Thank you. I thought you did a really great job with it. I don't think I have the time to build a jig and then do all the cement work, but I think someone else could sell those and I would buy them. I'd probably buy your jig just to save me time. Would you sell them?
You should make forms to sell or put them out at hardware's rentals places, I'd buy or rent them like right now!....then take them home and pour my own raised garden forms.
This was a wonderful video!!
Being disabled I prefer my raised beds a little higher. So I was thinking how to raise your beds a little higher. Not too high due to the weight of the concrete but in this every inch counts. A few extra leg posts for more support, maybe set a little deeper. Bottom board made with a couple of layers of plywood or 2x12s secured together with a few 1x4 boards set on the leg posts with the 1x4s down. Covered with a sheet of formica to protect the bottom from rotting out. Maybe a few drain holes drilled then small tubes inserted and sealed with caulk. Drill holes for your rebar rods to go into, instead of the ground, to secure to walls to the bottom boards and maybe deep enough to enter the leg posts.