You are extremely thorough. I've watched a lot of videos about aperture and you're the ONLY one who talked about lens diffraction, distortion and flare! Those issues may not sound important, but they can ruin a good shot. I'm subscribing.
Spencer, I've watched several of your videos so far, and I have watched hundreds of other UA-cam photography videos. Your videos, particularly the ones where you focus on a specific subject, such as this video, are the most comprehensive videos I have ever seen. Your videos are always interesting, entertaining and very easy to understand. I am a reasonably experienced photographer and I indulge in various genres, yet I find myself learning something from every one of your videos. I am very glad I found my way to your channel. Please keep them coming. Your channel really deserves some recognition
Wow, thank you! That means a lot to hear. I had to take a hiatus on new videos for a while, but comments like yours are why I’m so excited to start again with a vengeance early next year.
Glad I found you, dude!! Love your presentation. You put it in very simple wordings understandable to neophytes in photography like me. Will surely follow your work again. Thank you so much. :)
It has been 35 years since I took a photography course, and I needed a refresher on Aperture for my new to me DSLR. This was an incredibe video. Very thorough, easy to follow, and definitely worth my time to watch. Thank you for the excellent refresher. I'll definitely watch more of your videos.👍👍
Great video! One of the hardest things I have tried to understand is, in my photography workflow, how do I know which aperature setting to use? I understand the concept of DOF and using the aperature to improve lighting but... why F11? Why not F13, 16, 22? This is my mystery. Dave from Virginia Beach.
Generally, the “middle” f-numbers like f/5.6-8 will have better sharpness, and the farther away you go in either direction, the more image quality you give up. But very often, you will still need to shoot at different apertures to gather more light or get more (or less) depth of field. You’ll know which one to use based on practice - for example, does this scene need so much depth of field that you have to be at f/16? Or are you safe at f/8? Take a photo both ways and see which one is sharper, then learn from it when you look at them back on your computer.
Absolutely brilliant explanation !!; as a new photographer and on a steep learning curve your tutorial has short circuited the understanding of the effects of Aperture; thank you...........
Bravo! I'm not a photographer but have loved all types of photography for many decades. Your tutorial opened my eyes and appreciation to the techniques used. Thank you!
Me before watching this: I'm not a newbie to photography anymore Me after: I should go back to gaming... Very accurate title, a lot of very useful info in a 10 min video.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments..... video has helped me understand more about aperture....I am only a hobbyist but always willing to learn more about photography.... cheers from Australia 😀
Thank you, Silvia! I was planning to have music over those sections initially, but when I heard the sounds of the leaves rustling, I couldn't resist leaving it as-is :)
No kidding! It’s something I wish Nikon would put on their mirrorless cameras too (I shoot with the Z6 - enjoyed the EOS R when I rented it a couple years ago too.)
Is a very thorough and educational video but just to say I found the voice super weird as it has a room reverb on it but you're out in the open... did you put the reverb on in post or is it an overdub?
I likely will at some point, but in the meantime, I recommend looking at a chart of all the full stops and 1/3 stops. (The main full stops are f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, and f/22, although there’s technically no limit in either direction). These aren’t random numbers - if you notice, every two stops doubles the number. The “f” stands for “focal length.” So if your focal length is 20mm, and you are at f/2, you can actually plug it into the equation: 20mm/2. That of course equals 10mm, which is the physical size of the aperture blade opening when viewed through the front of your lens! So, even though the numbers are weird, they are not meaningless. When someone says to change aperture by 2 stops, they are saying to go two full stops in one direction or the other. (So if you’re already at f/4, they’re either saying to “stop down” two to f/8, or “open up” two to f/2.) I hope this explanation helps, but let me know if you still have any questions!
It’s called the ESDDI TP-60. I just got it a couple weeks ago as a cheap secondary tripod, since my old one broke. It’s not a great tripod by any means, but it does punch above its class (at about $100 including the ball head). Hope this helps!
Hi! I wanted to ask, since my lens is not expensive and its aperture increases when I zoom (which I just recently found out was not “meant” to be that way), how does this affect the utility of aperture?
Nothing wrong with that, plenty of zooms are variable aperture. All it means is that your range of available aperture values will change as you zoom. If you’re shooting in low light, it can mean that it’s best to zoom to the widest angle so you can use a wider aperture. Other than that, it doesn’t significantly affect how you’d use the lens. (I’ll add a quick note - the aperture doesn’t increase as you zoom in. Because aperture is written as a fraction, an aperture like f/3.5 is *larger* than an aperture like f/5.6. In the same way that 1/4 is larger than 1/8.)
@@PhotographyLifeChannel Thank you for answering! My problem with this is that in low light it’s difficult to get enough light in that often I have to increase the ISO and/or decrease shutter speed. Also because the biggest aperture I can get is f/3.5. Though I’m still a beginner so I maybe I will learn ways of dealing with this (besides buying a better lens). Also thank you, I learn so much from your clear explanations
Hey Spencer, thanks for this nice video. You know what, event you count so much effects of the aperature mechanism, you forgot to mention the change in chromatic aperation.
Quite true! I skipped over a few lens aberrations, including longitudinal and lateral chromatic aberration, astigmatism, and others, because there are so many of them. These particular aberrations also tend to follow the trend of more aberration at wider apertures, although occasionally you’ll find a lens that gets marginally worse with lateral CA as you stop down.
Very comprehensive Spencer! I have a question I've been curious about and it's related to the last segment in your video. Some times when shooting in dim conditions I will auto focus at f/2.8 and then stop down to say f/8 or f/11. This is usually focusing at about double the distance from the closest object, and using back button focus. I have not noticed that focus is impacted but I'm also not sure if this is an advisable technique. Is the focus shifting when stopping down? Hope this makes sense.
Definitely does make sense, but luckily focus shift isn't an issue whatsoever in that case. It's really only visible when making small aperture changes from roughly wide open to about one stop smaller. In fact, it's common for a lens's focus point to shift *back to the original point* once you're 2-3 stops down and more. All this is on top of the fact that even the worst focus shift lenses will almost never experience it to such a degree that it seriously harms a photo. And at f/8-11, your depth of field would hide it all anyway. In short, you have nothing to worry about!
@@PhotographyLifeChannel Thank you Spencer! Really appreciate you getting back to me on this. Really interesting to know and glad this technique is pretty safe to use!
This is a really well explained video! There's actually something related that I've wanted to ask for a while, if you don't mind: When I do star photography, I find it difficult to do photo stacking. Specifically, I think software gets confused by aberration (probably mostly coma), which makes it hard for it to align the photos. I know you have a lot of experience with stacking (I followed your Photography Life tutorial the first time I've tried it :) ), so I was wondering if you've encountered this problem, and what you would recommend to do (I use the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 20mm f/1.8G ED lens, and Photoshop). Is there an app for Windows which you find gives good results?
Thank you, Natalia! I'm assuming you're talking about image stacking to reduce noise, rather than panoramas or focus stacking. If so, Photoshop does a pretty terrible job dealing with misaligned stars. If you have foreground elements in your photos, your best bet is to use Sequator (Windows only, free); Mac users should use StarryLandscapeStacker instead (Mac only, $40). Also, make sure that the TIFF photos you import to either software don't come from Lightroom or other software with automatic lens corrections built in, or it may have a hard time stacking them. Both Sequator and StarryLandscapeStacker have tutorials online telling you their recommended import process. I hope this helps, good luck!
Thank you so much, Spencer! I'm relieved to hear that you had the same experience with Photoshop, I thought that perhaps I was doing something wrong. I'll be sure to check out Sequator next time I do some star photography!
I have photographed since the late seventies. I would have shown an aperture close up, and I may have explained the numbers. But apart from that, I would say this is unusually accurate. Some effects are much less important, but he also does mention that. Well done.
Call me a plagiarist, but I to sum up my opinion I just need to copy and paste 'marios' opinion below. But I won't. But I will give it 👍👍. Thanks Spencer.
Good question, but no. The aperture values represent the diameter, not the area, of the diaphragm opening. Double the diameter is four times the area, AKA four times as much light that passes through the lens. Hence why each full aperture value (f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, etc.) is one stop brighter than the previous. You could also think about it in terms of exposures on your camera. 1/100 second at f/4 is equivalent to 1/50 second at f/5.6 if you’re after the same exposure.
@@PhotographyLifeChannel I see! And by increasing the stop in this instance, the depth of field becomes wider but the exposure stays the same! Thank you for answering the question though, it’s double the light between each stop, thank you!
@@robinsievers2756 Sure thing! And that’s exactly right. Going from f/4 at 1/100 second to f/5.6 at 1/50 second is precisely how I would increase depth of field without changing the brightness of the image.
In the first example, he explains and shows how the brightness changes depending on what aperture you are shooting at. Though in the second example there is no difference in brightness. I don't get it! 😕
Sorry for the strange question. But is the voice dubbed in this? It looks perfectly synced but you sound like you're indoor with the reverb of a small room for most of it. I find it really distracting.
There isn't anything left to speak about aperture after this video. As usual fantastic job. God bless.
Much appreciated! That was my goal, and I’m glad it succeeded for you.
You are extremely thorough. I've watched a lot of videos about aperture and you're the ONLY one who talked about lens diffraction, distortion and flare! Those issues may not sound important, but they can ruin a good shot. I'm subscribing.
Thank you, Debra! I tried to be thorough and cover everything aperture does. To me, flare, diffraction, etc. are all very important.
🙏🌹🇮🇳@@PhotographyLifeChannel 🙏🌹🇮🇳PSSPPP 🇮🇳 PALOJU JAI SRIRAM 🇮🇳🌹🙏
Spencer, I've watched several of your videos so far, and I have watched hundreds of other UA-cam photography videos. Your videos, particularly the ones where you focus on a specific subject, such as this video, are the most comprehensive videos I have ever seen. Your videos are always interesting, entertaining and very easy to understand. I am a reasonably experienced photographer and I indulge in various genres, yet I find myself learning something from every one of your videos. I am very glad I found my way to your channel. Please keep them coming. Your channel really deserves some recognition
Wow, thank you! That means a lot to hear. I had to take a hiatus on new videos for a while, but comments like yours are why I’m so excited to start again with a vengeance early next year.
I’m always impressed how good you explain things. Keep the videos coming!
Much appreciated, and will do!
By far, this is the most amazing and informative video on aperture I've ever seen.
Glad I found you, dude!! Love your presentation. You put it in very simple wordings understandable to neophytes in photography like me. Will surely follow your work again. Thank you so much. :)
Spencer does justice to this subject better than I have seen elsewhere on youtube! To say that his presentations are impressive is understatement!
That’s very kind of you to say, thank you, Abdullahi!
The quality of your videos is excellent, I'm a new subscriber and learning a lot. Thank you.
Thanks!
Awesome down to earth explanation of key aspects of picture taking
Brilliantly Explained ..
It has been 35 years since I took a photography course, and I needed a refresher on Aperture for my new to me DSLR. This was an incredibe video. Very thorough, easy to follow, and definitely worth my time to watch. Thank you for the excellent refresher. I'll definitely watch more of your videos.👍👍
wow this tutorial is pure Gold , thank you for making it !
Excellent explanation of aperture with demonstration. I will keep this video and review it again. Thank you.😊
Super helpful video dude! Thanks ❤️🙏🏾
Crystal clear explanation without mincing words. Outstanding presentation 💥
Excellent, clear instructions!
Great video! One of the hardest things I have tried to understand is, in my photography workflow, how do I know which aperature setting to use? I understand the concept of DOF and using the aperature to improve lighting but... why F11? Why not F13, 16, 22? This is my mystery. Dave from Virginia Beach.
Generally, the “middle” f-numbers like f/5.6-8 will have better sharpness, and the farther away you go in either direction, the more image quality you give up. But very often, you will still need to shoot at different apertures to gather more light or get more (or less) depth of field. You’ll know which one to use based on practice - for example, does this scene need so much depth of field that you have to be at f/16? Or are you safe at f/8? Take a photo both ways and see which one is sharper, then learn from it when you look at them back on your computer.
Thanks! great explanation and nice shots :)
I think I'm in love with this man 😍
Absolutely brilliant explanation !!; as a new photographer and on a steep learning curve your tutorial has short circuited the understanding of the effects of Aperture; thank you...........
Excellent video!
Short and sweet. Very thorough explanation. I have learnt a lot in very short time. Thanks!
Excellent watching 28th April 2022 and thank you for this opportunity you gave us
Bravo! I'm not a photographer but have loved all types of photography for many decades. Your tutorial opened my eyes and appreciation to the techniques used. Thank you!
Me before watching this: I'm not a newbie to photography anymore
Me after: I should go back to gaming...
Very accurate title, a lot of very useful info in a 10 min video.
Thrilled to hear it! Glad you learned something about aperture from this!
Very comprehensive explanation on what aperture can do video in a single video. Very useful video !
Thanks, Vishy! That was definitely my goal, glad it succeeded.
Great video. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing your experience with great comments..... video has helped me understand more about aperture....I am only a hobbyist but always willing to learn more about photography.... cheers from Australia 😀
Spencer thank you for explaining my new camera. XOXO
I honestly wish I could like this video again. I've come back to it, because I felt ready to understand it. Thank you for making this video
I'm so glad it was helpful!
Thank you Spencer, you do not disappoint! Keep up the good work! 😃
Will do! Glad you’ve enjoyed my videos!
Thank u so much ...it.is very helpful..👍
Kudos Spencer on your well-explained topic of Aperture and its impacts!
Unbelievably excellent and easy explanation of aperture. Thank you.
You’re very welcome!
Really great video! Many thanks for explaining so well.
Thank you for a lot of great information. You explain it in a manner that is easily understood.
Thanks! Best explanations video!
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you!
Excellent, It's great tutorial, Thank you so much. 🍎
Extremely useful and informative video. Thx Spencer
You’re quite welcome! Glad this was useful in answering your earlier question.
I'm a newbie this is very, very helpful. You have a new follower.
Thank you for the effort that was put into this video. Super helpful and the best explanation I’ve found.
Really good video young man. 👍🏾
Very informative and excellent presentation and transition of subjects. 👏🏼 I enjoyed watching and learning at the same time. Thank you for your work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video.
You are quite welcome!
Excellent summary. Thankx for sharing.
I have been self learning a lot and your way to explain it is brilliant mate 🙌🙏 thanks
This was so helpful, I'm new to the science of photography and this explained the mystery (to me anyway) of aperture. Now I don't feel stupid anymore!
I recently bought an MFT camera to do photography as a hobby. This video is a really good guide for a beginner like me. Thanks.
Wonderful! So glad it helped you out, and good luck with your new camera!
Another great video. Thanks Spencer.
Sure thing! Happy that you liked it!
Awesome! I learnt so much in just 10 mins. Also, I LOVED the poplars gently moved by the wind.
Thank you, Silvia! I was planning to have music over those sections initially, but when I heard the sounds of the leaves rustling, I couldn't resist leaving it as-is :)
@@PhotographyLifeChannel Great decision. They don't need any music, they're perfect as they are.
There’s always something interesting to learn in your videos. And they are good to watch, well prepared with examples. Great work, thanks!
Happy to hear you liked it!
Loved your succinct explanations of finer aspects of Aperture, specially with apt examples. Learnt a lot from your video. Great. Keep it up.
Much appreciated! Will do, more like this coming out soon.
Fantastic 😊
Well done sir, much appreciated.
Great video! Very clear, very precise.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!
awesome!
Nice summary. I was hoping for a bit more detail (but realize I'm probably in the minority). Appreciate the effort.
Nice job!
Thank you!
Wonderful explanation 😮😃❤
Thanks Spencer, .. great info!!!
You bet! Glad you enjoyed it.
In the depth of field segment, how were you able to have such a narrow aperture and still so much light?
Similarly, in the sun star effect segment, how are you able to take low light photos with a narrow aperture?
I just used a longer shutter speed in those segments!
Great content!
Glad you liked it!
great voiceover!
Thanks!
Well done!
Why I love eos r, closes the sensor when ya change lenses
No kidding! It’s something I wish Nikon would put on their mirrorless cameras too (I shoot with the Z6 - enjoyed the EOS R when I rented it a couple years ago too.)
Thanks paramountly 💯
Thank you!
Is a very thorough and educational video but just to say I found the voice super weird as it has a room reverb on it but you're out in the open... did you put the reverb on in post or is it an overdub?
Thanks yeah the wind noise screwed up my audio and I couldn’t go back out there to re-film. Dubbed it over and didn’t do a great job 😬
Great instruction👍🏻
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
can u plz make a video on F stops.. how do they calculate.. its very confusing to me when some one says 1/3rd fstop , or 4 f stops etc...
I likely will at some point, but in the meantime, I recommend looking at a chart of all the full stops and 1/3 stops. (The main full stops are f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, and f/22, although there’s technically no limit in either direction). These aren’t random numbers - if you notice, every two stops doubles the number. The “f” stands for “focal length.” So if your focal length is 20mm, and you are at f/2, you can actually plug it into the equation: 20mm/2. That of course equals 10mm, which is the physical size of the aperture blade opening when viewed through the front of your lens! So, even though the numbers are weird, they are not meaningless. When someone says to change aperture by 2 stops, they are saying to go two full stops in one direction or the other. (So if you’re already at f/4, they’re either saying to “stop down” two to f/8, or “open up” two to f/2.) I hope this explanation helps, but let me know if you still have any questions!
@@PhotographyLifeChannel this is fantastic reply.. thanks so much.. it makes a lot sense to me now..
Good video! May I ask what tripod you are using in this video? The one that looks like it has red rings at the top.
It’s called the ESDDI TP-60. I just got it a couple weeks ago as a cheap secondary tripod, since my old one broke. It’s not a great tripod by any means, but it does punch above its class (at about $100 including the ball head). Hope this helps!
Hi! I wanted to ask, since my lens is not expensive and its aperture increases when I zoom (which I just recently found out was not “meant” to be that way), how does this affect the utility of aperture?
Nothing wrong with that, plenty of zooms are variable aperture. All it means is that your range of available aperture values will change as you zoom. If you’re shooting in low light, it can mean that it’s best to zoom to the widest angle so you can use a wider aperture. Other than that, it doesn’t significantly affect how you’d use the lens. (I’ll add a quick note - the aperture doesn’t increase as you zoom in. Because aperture is written as a fraction, an aperture like f/3.5 is *larger* than an aperture like f/5.6. In the same way that 1/4 is larger than 1/8.)
@@PhotographyLifeChannel Thank you for answering! My problem with this is that in low light it’s difficult to get enough light in that often I have to increase the ISO and/or decrease shutter speed. Also because the biggest aperture I can get is f/3.5. Though I’m still a beginner so I maybe I will learn ways of dealing with this (besides buying a better lens). Also thank you, I learn so much from your clear explanations
Hey Spencer, thanks for this nice video.
You know what, event you count so much effects of the aperature mechanism, you forgot to mention the change in chromatic aperation.
Quite true! I skipped over a few lens aberrations, including longitudinal and lateral chromatic aberration, astigmatism, and others, because there are so many of them. These particular aberrations also tend to follow the trend of more aberration at wider apertures, although occasionally you’ll find a lens that gets marginally worse with lateral CA as you stop down.
Just excellent.
Much appreciated!
Very comprehensive Spencer! I have a question I've been curious about and it's related to the last segment in your video. Some times when shooting in dim conditions I will auto focus at f/2.8 and then stop down to say f/8 or f/11. This is usually focusing at about double the distance from the closest object, and using back button focus. I have not noticed that focus is impacted but I'm also not sure if this is an advisable technique. Is the focus shifting when stopping down? Hope this makes sense.
Definitely does make sense, but luckily focus shift isn't an issue whatsoever in that case. It's really only visible when making small aperture changes from roughly wide open to about one stop smaller. In fact, it's common for a lens's focus point to shift *back to the original point* once you're 2-3 stops down and more.
All this is on top of the fact that even the worst focus shift lenses will almost never experience it to such a degree that it seriously harms a photo. And at f/8-11, your depth of field would hide it all anyway. In short, you have nothing to worry about!
@@PhotographyLifeChannel Thank you Spencer! Really appreciate you getting back to me on this. Really interesting to know and glad this technique is pretty safe to use!
@Frank F - It certainly is! That’s the method I follow most of the time in dim conditions as well
Just wondering who was the stupid that pres the "dislike" button.
Great vid!! 👏🏼👏🏼
Haha, who knows! Glad you liked it, Ramon, thanks!
Man your location looks surreal.
This is a really well explained video!
There's actually something related that I've wanted to ask for a while, if you don't mind: When I do star photography, I find it difficult to do photo stacking. Specifically, I think software gets confused by aberration (probably mostly coma), which makes it hard for it to align the photos. I know you have a lot of experience with stacking (I followed your Photography Life tutorial the first time I've tried it :) ), so I was wondering if you've encountered this problem, and what you would recommend to do (I use the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 20mm f/1.8G ED lens, and Photoshop). Is there an app for Windows which you find gives good results?
Thank you, Natalia! I'm assuming you're talking about image stacking to reduce noise, rather than panoramas or focus stacking. If so, Photoshop does a pretty terrible job dealing with misaligned stars. If you have foreground elements in your photos, your best bet is to use Sequator (Windows only, free); Mac users should use StarryLandscapeStacker instead (Mac only, $40). Also, make sure that the TIFF photos you import to either software don't come from Lightroom or other software with automatic lens corrections built in, or it may have a hard time stacking them. Both Sequator and StarryLandscapeStacker have tutorials online telling you their recommended import process. I hope this helps, good luck!
Thank you so much, Spencer! I'm relieved to hear that you had the same experience with Photoshop, I thought that perhaps I was doing something wrong. I'll be sure to check out Sequator next time I do some star photography!
I have photographed since the late seventies. I would have shown an aperture close up, and I may have explained the numbers. But apart from that, I would say this is unusually accurate. Some effects are much less important, but he also does mention that. Well done.
Call me a plagiarist, but I to sum up my opinion I just need to copy and paste 'marios' opinion below. But I won't. But I will give it 👍👍. Thanks Spencer.
Just to point out, wouldn’t f/4 only be twice as much light as f/8? Because it’s 1/4 instead of 1/8??
Good question, but no. The aperture values represent the diameter, not the area, of the diaphragm opening. Double the diameter is four times the area, AKA four times as much light that passes through the lens.
Hence why each full aperture value (f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, etc.) is one stop brighter than the previous.
You could also think about it in terms of exposures on your camera. 1/100 second at f/4 is equivalent to 1/50 second at f/5.6 if you’re after the same exposure.
@@PhotographyLifeChannel I see! And by increasing the stop in this instance, the depth of field becomes wider but the exposure stays the same! Thank you for answering the question though, it’s double the light between each stop, thank you!
@@robinsievers2756 Sure thing! And that’s exactly right. Going from f/4 at 1/100 second to f/5.6 at 1/50 second is precisely how I would increase depth of field without changing the brightness of the image.
In the first example, he explains and shows how the brightness changes depending on what aperture you are shooting at. Though in the second example there is no difference in brightness. I don't get it! 😕
I equalized brightness for the second example by changing another camera setting (ISO) at the same time. Hope that helps!
@@PhotographyLifeChannel This makes sense. thank you!
Вот уж не думал, что на английском языке этот парень расскажет быстрее и понятнее, чем на отечественные спецы.
Thanks, it's very clear
Why does aperture have an effect in sharpness?
super
Thanks! Glad you like it.
not bad guide
Thank you!
Why does it suddenly sound like you're sitting in your kitchen 1:44
Hello
Sorry for the strange question. But is the voice dubbed in this? It looks perfectly synced but you sound like you're indoor with the reverb of a small room for most of it. I find it really distracting.
No dust
🙏🌹🇮🇳 PSSPPP 🇮🇳 PALOJU JAI SRIRAM 🇮🇳🌹🙏
This ADR kills me. You can clearly hear he’s in a reflective room and not standing outside lol
I had to dub over a couple parts because the wind noise was annoying, sorry
Thanks!
🙏🌹🇮🇳 PSSPPP 🇮🇳 PALOJU JAI SRIRAM 🇮🇳🌹🙏