I'm an engineer, bought a Bridgeport, really nice one from a school for simply convenience. We plan to still send our machining out, but we have to modify our designs sometimes, make quick parts, to our machinery, specialty, and we can't wait. Well, after 8 months! maybe a year, I turned it on the other day, and finished a bunch of parts to my new machine. OMG if I ever see a drill press again, it will be too soon. AND... I'm getting one of these tapmatics... THANK YOU FOR THE DEMO! I LOVE IT. NOW! you have all the bells and whisles as well. Raising and lowering my knee over 2 days, about wore my ass out. (I had a BUNCH of crazy ass sizes from small, to large, to "get creative" to try and get it in there to fit. I have had a Milwaukee 3/8" battery drive in my box for a year now, that I haven't used. Well, it is going to become, my full time shank tightener, and loosener. Got REALLY tired of changing all the shanks over 2 days by hand as well. And WHY they ever put the damned power switch all the way up over your head and behind, "you got me?" Is that for safety? I don't get it. I'm 6 foot, and I have a small reach, dear lord, I'd hate to be 5'6" and trying to reach the power switch all day long. Even though I won't be using it much, I can see me step by step adding some of those nice features most of you guys have....... 1st step, new Lead Nuts and get rid of the backlash. THANKS FOR THE DEMO STEVE, GREAT JOB! These videos turn a dummy like me into a weekend machinist in no time. I told my tool and die maker, if he EVER needs somebody to fill in for the day, I CERTAINLY can get everything within 1/4" for him. LOL !
I have no idea about the power switch. I remember when they put them up high level with the draw bar nut. I seen people forget to remove the draw bar wrench and turn on the machine and the wrench would smash the switch.
@@brentbarnhart5827 Real old post, but I ran a long piece of 1/8 x 1/2 steel down from the power switch (remove the plastic knob, attach tpo the shaft), pivoted on one of the 3 clutch gousing bolts and I added a `10" lever. Super easy to use, no reaching for me.
@@dc6233 Thanks for reply. I put a variable frequency drive on it, and then moved the on off, reverse switch, and a potentiometer onto the arm, with the DRO. Lose torque however with the frequency drive. I can still move the belting around. I'm going to check the settings on the drive when I get time, I probably can dial it in better. But you always use that inrush or power, and torque when you use a variable frequency drive. For how I use it, mostly its not an issue. once in awhile I grumble.
I stumbled on to a tapmatic on Craigslist a few years ago. Best thing since sliced bread. You can put threads in ten holes faster than you can drill em. Nice video.
Certainly a time saver. With most machines a riser block is a great investment to go with the tapmatic as it eats a fair bit of space between table and tap.
Hi Slavik, I haven't used one in about 2 decades but I am glad we have one now. How did you like the Ark in Kentucky? Was it worth the trip? I would like to go there some day. Steve
Thank you Steve for the demo, mine is a 30X as I tap smaller holes. I have had good luck tapping 4-40 or smaller and have yet to break a tap. [Probably shouldn't have said that].
Thanks Steve. I have a few tapping heads - need to get them out and practice. I want make a milling plate and not spend a month tapping. 🤨 Very nice tips you shared. The drill size and tap oversized was very informative. I was coached by a nice machinist who ran screw shop (for half a century) he recommended using the next size bit up and still maintaining the required thread %. I guess he was successful. _Dan_
Hi John, I uses it for making a rough manual tracer. instagram.com/p/BcptUx3FDmI/?taken-by=solid_rock_machine_shop It works great for mounting your mag base too. Steve
I have a small amount of envy brewing here. LOL. I find that using a #5 versus a #7 tap hole with standard taps works much better. I understand there is less thread penetration, but on non-critical applications the tapping is so much easier to do, and the screws fit nicely.
Hi Wes, If I remember right thread hole size percentage is not as important as thread depth engagement. If I remember correctly a 50% thread engagement has as much strength as a 75% engagement as long as the thread depth engagement is twice the thread diameter. Steve
I got one of those tapmatics off ebay myself. I got the big brother of that one as I can tap to about 3/4". Mine had a broken part when I got it and was short one collet so I had to do repairs and buy a collet. I wish I had to drill a lot of holes now and then so I could use it more often.
Nice, I can easily see how CNC would make positioning a snap, for even faster tapping. The new 50x does all three operations without having to change out the tapping head.
Great vid, as expected. Just looked up the Tapomatic cattle dog and found they sell a quill mounted bar for that torque arm. That would solve a lot of potential clearance issues. Look it up, I'm sure you could whip one up if you haven't already, haha. Keep up the good work, you drop gems of info in every vid of yours I've watched. That casual way of the uber competent tradesman to make it look easy. I wish I'd had you as my teacher/mentor. Carl from Auz.
Hi Duane, I still use center drills with split points even though they track better than a normal point. The best point I have used that starts well is the s-point or spiral point but they are hard to find now days. Steve
Nice demonstration Steve. Question.....a friend loaned me one of those before he went up North for the summer after he saw my video where I had 48 holes to tap on my lathe. Can those be used on a lathe mounted in the tailstock? They are expensive so never even attempted using it. The little mill I have is too small to be used with it. His is a diff brand than yours but a very nice unit....
Hi Richard, Yes! they can be used in the lathe. They have a lot of different models to chose from. Their web site shows them being used in the lathe. Steve
You mentioned when you center drill especially on a job with alot of holes you don't go deep because it's bad on drills for obvious reasons. Anyway do what I do, I bought a spot drill with the same degree as my drills (118° split point and sticking out no more than 1/2" ) this will save your drill bits and if u have a drill sharpener 118° capable then boom resharpen it and it will last years. Let me know if this helped!
Hi Ryan, I have used them in the past and they work very well. Using the center drill the way I do works very good too, I get the same results. The biggest problem now is the exit of through holes which are very hard on drill points. Steve
Great video and demonstration, I use the hardinge tt tapping head and it isn’t even close to having all the awesome features as the tapmatic. You have me wondering if I need one now 😂. I’m sure it’s gonna work great when tapping all those holes. 👍🏻
Hi Bob, I don't recall ever using a Procunier tapping head so I can't give an opinion on it. Maybe one of the viewer can jump in if they have ever use one. Steve
Yep, Snorkel had one mounted on the X axis on their Bridgeport milling machine. They are nice especially if you are doing repetitive production parts like I was at Snorkel. It beats cranking it all the time....lol
Some times that is hard to do without causing greater issues. We put a lot of time already in these video and to redo spots where my hand is in the way is more effort than I am going to put into it. Steve
I'm an engineer, bought a Bridgeport, really nice one from a school for simply convenience. We plan to still send our machining out, but we have to modify our designs sometimes, make quick parts, to our machinery, specialty, and we can't wait. Well, after 8 months! maybe a year, I turned it on the other day, and finished a bunch of parts to my new machine. OMG if I ever see a drill press again, it will be too soon. AND... I'm getting one of these tapmatics... THANK YOU FOR THE DEMO! I LOVE IT. NOW! you have all the bells and whisles as well. Raising and lowering my knee over 2 days, about wore my ass out. (I had a BUNCH of crazy ass sizes from small, to large, to "get creative" to try and get it in there to fit. I have had a Milwaukee 3/8" battery drive in my box for a year now, that I haven't used. Well, it is going to become, my full time shank tightener, and loosener. Got REALLY tired of changing all the shanks over 2 days by hand as well. And WHY they ever put the damned power switch all the way up over your head and behind, "you got me?" Is that for safety? I don't get it. I'm 6 foot, and I have a small reach, dear lord, I'd hate to be 5'6" and trying to reach the power switch all day long. Even though I won't be using it much, I can see me step by step adding some of those nice features most of you guys have....... 1st step, new Lead Nuts and get rid of the backlash. THANKS FOR THE DEMO STEVE, GREAT JOB! These videos turn a dummy like me into a weekend machinist in no time. I told my tool and die maker, if he EVER needs somebody to fill in for the day, I CERTAINLY can get everything within 1/4" for him. LOL !
I have no idea about the power switch. I remember when they put them up high level with the draw bar nut. I seen people forget to remove the draw bar wrench and turn on the machine and the wrench would smash the switch.
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc OH WOW!
@@brentbarnhart5827 Real old post, but I ran a long piece of 1/8 x 1/2 steel down from the power switch (remove the plastic knob, attach tpo the shaft), pivoted on one of the 3 clutch gousing bolts and I added a `10" lever. Super easy to use, no reaching for me.
@@dc6233 Thanks for reply. I put a variable frequency drive on it, and then moved the on off, reverse switch, and a potentiometer onto the arm, with the DRO. Lose torque however with the frequency drive. I can still move the belting around. I'm going to check the settings on the drive when I get time, I probably can dial it in better. But you always use that inrush or power, and torque when you use a variable frequency drive. For how I use it, mostly its not an issue. once in awhile I grumble.
First demo I’ve seen where it’s clearly show how it’s being used, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation of the clutch setting on the Tapmatic, I think this is the first video I have seen that has gone in to detail about it.
Thanks Wolfmetalfab.
Best tapmatic video I’ve seen so far
Thank you.
I am completely knew to the machining world. Knowing there is a oversize tap is my knew learning of the day. Thanks.
You're welcome Adrain.
Steve
Those tapping heads are fantastic little machines. Saved my NIMS manual milling project.
Hi Matt,
I love them when there are a lot of holes to tap.
Steve
I stumbled on to a tapmatic on Craigslist a few years ago. Best thing since sliced bread. You can put threads in ten holes faster than you can drill em. Nice video.
Hi Doc,
They are really nice when tapping a lot of holes. I am glad we have one now, it will come in handy for many of our products.
Steve
Certainly a time saver. With most machines a riser block is a great investment to go with the tapmatic as it eats a fair bit of space between table and tap.
Hi Brian,
That is one of the nice benefits of that Acer mill, it has a lot of Z travel.
Steve
I had to watch this to learn how to use mine. Excellent tutorial about holes and tapping
Awesome! Thank you!
Thankyou for a great film. I just purchased a used tapping chuck and now I now how to use it. Great film.
You're welcome, I think you are going to love the tapping head.
Steve
That trick with the finger clamps and the parallel bars is pretty neat. Thanks.
You're Welcome.
Very well explained.. Nice demo.. Keep up your good work.. Thanks
Thanks, will do!
That is a great tool to have. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Slavik,
I haven't used one in about 2 decades but I am glad we have one now. How did you like the Ark in Kentucky? Was it worth the trip? I would like to go there some day.
Steve
Thank you Steve for the demo, mine is a 30X as I tap smaller holes. I have had good luck tapping 4-40 or smaller and have yet to break a tap. [Probably shouldn't have said that].
still trying to master my tapmatic. love the finger clamp idea for the vise!
It worked well.
Thanks Steve. I have a few tapping heads - need to get them out and practice. I want make a milling plate and not spend a month tapping. 🤨
Very nice tips you shared. The drill size and tap oversized was very informative. I was coached by a nice machinist who ran screw shop (for half a century) he recommended using the next size bit up and still maintaining the required thread %. I guess he was successful.
_Dan_
Thanks Dan.
Steve
It is slick as all get out when combined with a burgmaster turret drill
How were you able to drill holes in the vise being case hardend and all ive tried and got nowhere !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My vise is not hardened. I believe it is cast iron maybe cast steel. The Jaws are hardened but I put the tapped holes in before I hardened them.
Nice preview Steve. Been looking for one myself.
Thanks Jeff. I found this one on Ebay for about half the price of a new one.
Steve
Good demo of the tapping head and I like your vise mods.
Thanks Randy. It is good to see you back home safe and sound.
Steve
Does that tap holder grip multiple tap sizes?
they come with different sized rubber collets. the collets are quite pricey individually...dont lose them :) good question.
I believe it goes from #6 to 1/2" taps.
very informative. I really like your finger clamp set up. many thanks
Thanks Charlie,
Steve
Thanks, for great information. What is the purpose of the flat plate bolted to the underside of tram used for?
Hi John,
I uses it for making a rough manual tracer. instagram.com/p/BcptUx3FDmI/?taken-by=solid_rock_machine_shop It works great for mounting your mag base too.
Steve
I have a small amount of envy brewing here. LOL. I find that using a #5 versus a #7 tap hole with standard taps works much better. I understand there is less thread penetration, but on non-critical applications the tapping is so much easier to do, and the screws fit nicely.
Hi Wes,
If I remember right thread hole size percentage is not as important as thread depth engagement. If I remember correctly a 50% thread engagement has as much strength as a 75% engagement as long as the thread depth engagement is twice the thread diameter.
Steve
I got one of those tapmatics off ebay myself. I got the big brother of that one as I can tap to about 3/4". Mine had a broken part when I got it and was short one collet so I had to do repairs and buy a collet. I wish I had to drill a lot of holes now and then so I could use it more often.
I love that Tapmatic. It sure makes short work out of tapping a lot of holes.
Steve
any reason that you didnt choose 40 taper on the mill instead of the r8?
I had a lot of tools already in r8.
Hey Solid Rock Family. HGR has a Moore Model 3 (B107) Jig Bore up for
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the info, We are planning on going to the same gathering too.
Steve
Nice, I can easily see how CNC would make positioning a snap, for even faster tapping. The new 50x does all three operations without having to change out the tapping head.
I will have to look into that. Thanks for the information.
Steve
Great vid, as expected.
Just looked up the Tapomatic cattle dog and found they sell a quill mounted bar for that torque arm.
That would solve a lot of potential clearance issues.
Look it up, I'm sure you could whip one up if you haven't already, haha.
Keep up the good work, you drop gems of info in every vid of yours I've watched.
That casual way of the uber competent tradesman to make it look easy.
I wish I'd had you as my teacher/mentor.
Carl from Auz.
Thanks Carl, I will have to check that out.
Steve
If you use split point drill bits you don't need to center drill, do you?
Hi Duane,
I still use center drills with split points even though they track better than a normal point. The best point I have used that starts well is the s-point or spiral point but they are hard to find now days.
Steve
Nice demo good video.
Thanks Mike.
Great tutorial! Thanks for the video.
You're welcome Bill. Thanks for watching.
Steve
Nice demonstration Steve. Question.....a friend loaned me one of those before he went up North for the summer after he saw my video where I had 48 holes to tap on my lathe. Can those be used on a lathe mounted in the tailstock? They are expensive so never even attempted using it. The little mill I have is too small to be used with it. His is a diff brand than yours but a very nice unit....
Hi Richard,
Yes! they can be used in the lathe. They have a lot of different models to chose from. Their web site shows them being used in the lathe.
Steve
Thank You Steve, never seen one used in a lathe on youtube
Excellent video
Cheers
Thanks Dave.
You mentioned when you center drill especially on a job with alot of holes you don't go deep because it's bad on drills for obvious reasons. Anyway do what I do, I bought a spot drill with the same degree as my drills (118° split point and sticking out no more than 1/2" ) this will save your drill bits and if u have a drill sharpener 118° capable then boom resharpen it and it will last years. Let me know if this helped!
Hi Ryan,
I have used them in the past and they work very well. Using the center drill the way I do works very good too, I get the same results. The biggest problem now is the exit of through holes which are very hard on drill points.
Steve
Use a spotting drill with and angle greater than your drill. so for 135* drills use 140* or 142*. Works out nicely.
Great video and demonstration, I use the hardinge tt tapping head and it isn’t even close to having all the awesome features as the tapmatic. You have me wondering if I need one now 😂. I’m sure it’s gonna work great when tapping all those holes. 👍🏻
Hi Dustin,
Thanks. I am glad we have one now. It will come in handy for much of the work we do.
Steve
Good job!
Thanks!
Steve, do you have any experience with the Procunier tapping heads, and if so, what do you think of them?
Hi Bob,
I don't recall ever using a Procunier tapping head so I can't give an opinion on it. Maybe one of the viewer can jump in if they have ever use one.
Steve
People gripe about how expensive those are but they are worth every penny if you have to tap many holes often.
Hi Bill,
I agree with you. Once you use them you will love them.
Steve
Enjoyed Steve!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin.
i have one of these on the way....thanx for the video.
You're welcome.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc jsut rewatched this....was tring to figure out how to stop the arm...love the back block on the vice...brilliant.
Smart machinist right there.
Thanks
Very Nice
Thanks
I like servo motor's on vertical milling machine's. It's like having a Cadillac of all milling machines. lol...
Hi Jack,
It would be hard to live without them once you use them. We bought the machine with them installed as part of the package deal.
Steve
Yep, Snorkel had one mounted on the X axis on their Bridgeport milling machine. They are nice especially if you are doing repetitive production parts like I was at Snorkel. It beats cranking it all the time....lol
Love it!
Thanks Fibra.
Steve
Oh oh one more tool to add to the shopping list
Hi Chris,
The Tapmatic would be a nice addition.
Steve
i like but many times you hide the camera
Some times that is hard to do without causing greater issues. We put a lot of time already in these video and to redo spots where my hand is in the way is more effort than I am going to put into it.
Steve