That's great info! I'd love to see a video of your setup. I actually just tried this with the old Sunrace 11-42 11-speed cassette that was originally on my bike. It worked pretty well in the stand after cranking down on the b-tension screw. I didn't really expect this to work. I think it shifted better than I thought it would because the jockey wheel was so far from the cassette most of the time. I counted more than 4 rollers between the small cogs and the jockey wheel, when typically that number is 2.5 or 3. That extra distance seems to improve the chain angle enough to make it shift well, but isn't such a high distance that it failed to shift at all.
@ it is a setup I did in the past but now have a rival 11spd rd that is specified for a 10-42 cassette. The main reason I went for the 10spd gx was price at the time. The main disadvantage with using the 10spd gx rd with apex shifter was having to use an inline barrel adjuster.
@2:28 - The "searching for an easier gear only to get a harder gear" issue turned me off of SRAM stuff early on. Do you know if this is the case with all SRAM shifters? I only ever used Apex or Rival 10 speed stuff, but it sounds like their 11 speed Apex was the same way?
Ircc, Force10 and Red10 claim not to but I personally didn't find that to be the case. In fact, I found the low limit screw on my Red10s was more of a suggestion than a true limit. That unexpected shift up had struck me enough times at the crux of the climb that I developed a habit of holding the the lever in to buy a moment before the bite. Turns out that putting all the torque on pedals while holding lever is one of those 'doesn't show up in the stand' moments. Ended that ride and wheel real quick. As impressive as the 3x combo is here, my hat's off for fixing the Sram's nasty little 'feature'. To be fair to Sram though, my set had seen some abuse. A couple of trees and one car likely had them rattled, and I suspect they were looking for revenge.
That's a "feature" of the doubletap mechanism used on all sram mechanical road shifters. The solution is easy once you get used to it: Whenever you try to shift against the limit into an unexisting gear, just need to keep pushing until you feel a second click. If it feels too hard you need to loosen a bit the limit screw.
I have been using sram double tap for a while now on 1x setups. I have not had an issue with the end of the cassette. It is probably easier to keep track of where you are on the cassette with 1x11. Took me a while to consistently be able to not grab more that one gear when shifting to an easier to gear. Having said that I have not had that issue I will probably do it on my ride tomorrow 😂
This should work the same with Force 1x11 shifter too, right? I bought a pair of those on sale in a haze of enthusiasm a good long while back and haven't found a use for them. If this pans out I'll make my fast bike 1x10 with a secret subcompact granny chainring operated by seatpost friction suicide shifter; goal being using the same bike for lighter bikepacking as well as practice rides.
Hi. If you can have them, can you also do a comparison of the cable pull ratios of Deore RD M6100 and Deore RD M5100? They are apparently identical according to another youtube video but people seem to have varying opinions regarding it. Thank you.
Thank you for reminding me about the RD-M6100! I have one, I just haven't gotten around to measuring it. I also just measured the RD-M5120, which is similar to the RD-M5100. However, I haven't made a video just yet. I measured the pull ratio to be 1.1. You can see the pull ratio info here: drivetrainbuilder.com/RD-M5120.htm
The 10spd gx rd also works well in a 11spd setup. I have use the apex shifter with the gx with a 11 to 42 11spd cassette.
That's great info! I'd love to see a video of your setup.
I actually just tried this with the old Sunrace 11-42 11-speed cassette that was originally on my bike. It worked pretty well in the stand after cranking down on the b-tension screw. I didn't really expect this to work.
I think it shifted better than I thought it would because the jockey wheel was so far from the cassette most of the time. I counted more than 4 rollers between the small cogs and the jockey wheel, when typically that number is 2.5 or 3. That extra distance seems to improve the chain angle enough to make it shift well, but isn't such a high distance that it failed to shift at all.
@ it is a setup I did in the past but now have a rival 11spd rd that is specified for a 10-42 cassette. The main reason I went for the 10spd gx was price at the time. The main disadvantage with using the 10spd gx rd with apex shifter was having to use an inline barrel adjuster.
That is a neat combination you've found. Thank you for sharing! How do you shift the three chainrings?
I use a bar-end friction shifter to shift the front triple chainrings.
@@boothsbikeprojects Okay, that is indeed a nice workaround. Happy trails!
@2:28 - The "searching for an easier gear only to get a harder gear" issue turned me off of SRAM stuff early on. Do you know if this is the case with all SRAM shifters? I only ever used Apex or Rival 10 speed stuff, but it sounds like their 11 speed Apex was the same way?
Apex 1 11-Speed is the same way
Apex 12s does that shite as well.
Ircc, Force10 and Red10 claim not to but I personally didn't find that to be the case. In fact, I found the low limit screw on my Red10s was more of a suggestion than a true limit. That unexpected shift up had struck me enough times at the crux of the climb that I developed a habit of holding the the lever in to buy a moment before the bite. Turns out that putting all the torque on pedals while holding lever is one of those 'doesn't show up in the stand' moments. Ended that ride and wheel real quick. As impressive as the 3x combo is here, my hat's off for fixing the Sram's nasty little 'feature'. To be fair to Sram though, my set had seen some abuse. A couple of trees and one car likely had them rattled, and I suspect they were looking for revenge.
That's a "feature" of the doubletap mechanism used on all sram mechanical road shifters.
The solution is easy once you get used to it:
Whenever you try to shift against the limit into an unexisting gear, just need to keep pushing until you feel a second click. If it feels too hard you need to loosen a bit the limit screw.
I have been using sram double tap for a while now on 1x setups. I have not had an issue with the end of the cassette. It is probably easier to keep track of where you are on the cassette with 1x11. Took me a while to consistently be able to not grab more that one gear when shifting to an easier to gear. Having said that I have not had that issue I will probably do it on my ride tomorrow 😂
This should work the same with Force 1x11 shifter too, right?
I bought a pair of those on sale in a haze of enthusiasm a good long while back and haven't found a use for them. If this pans out I'll make my fast bike 1x10 with a secret subcompact granny chainring operated by seatpost friction suicide shifter; goal being using the same bike for lighter bikepacking as well as practice rides.
Yes, I believe the Force 1 11-speed shifter is mechanically the same as the Apex 1 shifter.
I love the idea of a seatpost mounted shifter!
Hi. If you can have them, can you also do a comparison of the cable pull ratios of Deore RD M6100 and Deore RD M5100? They are apparently identical according to another youtube video but people seem to have varying opinions regarding it. Thank you.
Thank you for reminding me about the RD-M6100! I have one, I just haven't gotten around to measuring it.
I also just measured the RD-M5120, which is similar to the RD-M5100. However, I haven't made a video just yet. I measured the pull ratio to be 1.1. You can see the pull ratio info here: drivetrainbuilder.com/RD-M5120.htm