High Performance Subwoofer Installation
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- Опубліковано 22 жов 2022
- High performance audio solution for seemingly-unserious racing enthusiasts!
Support my production at / jafromobile !
You will have an opinion on this topic. We may not have the same opinion, but that's what comments are for. I explain the approach, reasoning, and perform a series of tests on these performance subwoofers and give you another slice of this car's story. Don't worry, I'll take this one back to the track for more testing beyond what we do here!
Performance is relative. Anything is high performance if it does more than it's supposed to. I install a pair of MTX 8" under-seat subwoofers into a car I insist must have a decent stereo in because I use it for so much more than racing. It's not a race car. It just happens to have a whole lot of racing modifications that complicated (for me) the installation of these subwoofers. But the end result allowed me to do a whole lot more than just vastly increase the amount of bass I experience while driving.
I have daily driven this car for the past 10 days and can attest that these subwoofers are superior to what I had in every way. They are for THIS car. If you insist on playing your music loud enough to feel it, and your environment isn't perfect, then these things by all means are extremely high performance subwoofers. Nobody paid me to promote these, and liking music doesn't make me an audiophile. I'm just using my fun as ballast.
Here's the link for the MTX TN8MS at Crutchfield:
www.crutchfield.com/S-K2lnpkk...
There are many other brands and sizes of these under-seat subwoofers available, and I selected mine based on size, combined power output, frequency response and price. If there's anything I could add that's not in the video... if you use two separate subwoofers like I did to give each channel its own subwoofer, make sure that on each amplified subwoofer that you split that signal to BOTH L&R inputs. They are twice as loud if you do. There's no switch to built in function to do this, so you'll need a splitter for the L&R channels. Most people would probably only install one of these and not need it at all. It also has line level inputs, and if you were installing two of these on a factory stereo that doesn't have RCA's I would imagine you'd still need to do the same thing with the line level inputs. It wants both input signals for maximum performance. - Авто та транспорт
Can we all just take a moment to respect the fact that this man didn't click bate us with "Dyno" in the title. Great surprise at the end of a already awesome subwoofer/wiring video.👍
When you click the clickbaitiest title and thumbnail I've ever produced and then discover it's actually honest...
His videos are legit a pure satisfaction to watch. He don’t waste time with unnecessary bs at all. And if you got half a brain it’s not hard to keep up and retain the info for your build.
Not all heroes wear capes.
Excellent results Jafro! Thank you for continuing to make videos that are full of fun surprises throughout! 😀👍🏻
Thanks Tom! It's all about having fun! I think the biggest surprise is discovering the title and thumbnail aren't clickbait after all...? lol
Exited for whenever your next video comes out Tom! Glad you're doing alright
Holy crap jafro and tom
Seeing you work INSIDE of the shop, doing all the fiddly removable bits,...That's Pro-level right there. No more blue Monday.
This video actually started out as just a lighting test. This is what it evolved into. It turned into a real video!
i feel like there are a lot of types of car guys out there but not a lot like us. i have my own tradeya that ive been slowly replacing parts on for the last decade and i have pretty much an identical philosophy with it, ridiculous racecar stuff in the engine bay, clean interior, upgraded audio, absolutely beat to shit and filthy exterior. a 1991 nissan stanza, the car looks like its owned by a high school freshman from the outside (and at a time, it was) but has a vg30e from a 300zx under the hood, ive pulled it all apart recently to take it to the next level and redo a bunch of things but when its done its going to be a tire slayer.
anyway, point is im always inspired by these videos. its nice to see people with the same kind of goals and perspective doing their thing outside of the mainstream.
V6 in a Stanza, LOL! 187lbs of indestructibly reliable normally-aspirated torque in a 2,700 lb. 4-door, I love it! You're not bolting the TT half of that engine onto it are you?
So to sum it up basically, the only new principal involved is that instead of power being generated by the relative motion of conductors and fluxes its produced by the modial interaction of magneto reluctance, and capacitive duractance. The original Machine had a base plate of prefamulated amulite surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two sperving bearings run a direct line with the panametric fan?
Would’ve saved a lot of time (on and off track) if he had just installed a Flux-bass capacitor
Thanks for clearing that up
Personally, I'd take it a step further.
I'd start by fitting six hydrocoptic marzlevanes, so fitted to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft that side fumbling is effectively prevented.
Love me some jafro
Same, he's like a friend/mentor I've never had and always wanted.
He is extremely approachable. & has been a mentor. To me. I was very happy to support him via Patreon for years. Until a change in my circumstances. Best. UA-camr. Ever.
Jafro, this car deserves a shift boot that goes long with it's mismatched wheels, scratched paint and license plate- a Crown Royal bag. Purple and gold, RIGHT in the center. With the sunbaked, oxidized red paint it'll fit perfectly.
DJO nice choice.... "Fish beat!"
Always a good day when I get a notification that you've posted. Noticed that you might be getting some clutch slip @36:13. Rpms hold at ~5k after boost builds,while the wheel speed catches up. Looking forward to the next one.
It's the magneto on the dyno. I asked the same thing.
Finally, a video that really gets down to the real details of subwoofer installation!
Give this man a Prize! Fantastic production values, you keep that car nice and clean inside.
Love the new shop and seeing you make good progress on making your car the way you envisioned it. 👍
364/342 is not so shabby! My prior dyno attempt proves it because that's about what I was predicting it should be able to do. Too bad it took a whole year to be able to move in here and prove it. ;)
@@Jafromobile yeah I was wondering when you would expand. I'm excited to see more cool content.
My 2 favorite things in one, Jafro and subwoofers! Best way ever to start the last week of my "summer" vacation! Thank you for your awesome content and best narration on the tube! Keep em coming!
absolutely iconic commentary as always
Thank you buddy! I reworked this video 4 different times trying to get it right and it still came out this bad. ;)
It is sad to see our hero geting old 😔. Love you and the chaneel. I wish you best of luck in future.
Hindsight is 20/20...or as I say, "with good vision being behind a fella" lol. I love this car, especially how rust free it is.
I just read that in AvE's voice. ;)
@@Jafromobile forgive my ignorance, but what is AvE? I stole the good vision line from Derek over at Vice Grip Garage a few years ago lol
@@williamsinger4124 He's a brilliant Canadian tweaker who's famous for torture testing power tools, and a creative talent for describing things. He probably watches Vice Grip Garage, too.
I like it. I have a similar sub in my car. I used stainless bolts with rubber well nuts (from a motorcycle wind screen) and rubber washers to soft mount the sub and get a water tight seal. Makes more sense to have the sub in the car where you can clearly experience the bass rather than in the trunk for everyone outside to enjoy.
Turbo Jesus impresses again.
Boosted Blessings my child!
I hope whoever Hyundai paid for that carpet still has that contract with them.
I wish my 31 year old Korean built Festiva carpet was in half that condition.
I'm actually very amazed by it. Carpet is apparently how Hyundai made up for the rest of this car.
Hey thanks jafro ...........I hope if possible the next video is about engine building
"I'm getting 2 birds stoned at once" I see you watch tpb
Awesome video as always, really love your channel.
Great content as always Jafro!
JAFRO YOU'RE STILL ALIVE!!!!
good job jafro, love watching your videos keep it up, love your ending surprise! :P
Sony has their high power headunit that is capable of 3x higher wattage than typical. Usually headunits output like 15w per speaker max, their special headunit can do 45w per speaker. Which is a huge night/day difference, and the only requirement is making sure it gets enough power. And If I assume correctly, you already ran direct power to your headunit in an older video. So that might be right up your alley. Sony GS80 or GS900 (single and dual slot) units. They are little monsters to be honest. I think they would suit you well. EDIT: your 50w peak doesn't really mean much. always rate your power by RMS and that's the realistic loudness level. as a side side note, the sony is 100w peak. for reference. double.
As a cripple I love your videos. Makes me remember what It felt like to work on my cars. I fucking miss it. Shame modern technology/science/medical is dogshit and all about profit instead of cures. I would love to walk again and drive again using my legs (could drive with assists but honestly, that isn't driving).
The GS80 would have been a fantastic fit if I hadn't already dumped 2.5x as much into this one because it has all the same features for the most part. I like the front-loading USB port on it, too. That's a nice touch. Dang it's cheap!
Totally stealing that speaker idea for my GVR4! Love the install brother.
subs increased power significantly dope video jafro!
Excited for some fresh time slips. And that corn juice race gas kit too
The. Best. UA-camr. Ever. 🙌
Love your content! Your videos are so inspiring, always brings me light to dark times. Thank you for being you! Now to go outside and work on my GSX interior wiring =D
Next upgrade: LSU 4.9 sensor? Glad you still made it to the shootout at least! Performance subs will def pay dividends at the track.
Nice job man!!
I have the same terminals in my car, and love it.
My favorite part was when Jafro installed those carbon dioxide lasers for his new boron fission reactor after he made all that trunk space
I’m glad to see you’ve updated your system those old school subs were not helping with anything those powered u it’s are surprising for there output
This was an improvement in every possible way! Thanks D!
I love the 3 very different "red" vehicles all 4g powered in the shop. The Elantra, the Evo, the 2G DSM...
and soon to be a green one, and a yellow one, and a black one and a...
Wait a second right there. You also stick your magnets on the vise?? Omg, Ive been sticking my magnets on my vise for years, and they are also always full with ball bearings.
May check your boost pre and post IC. I ran an ebay cooler that looked similar to that one and it was HORRIBLE. Picked up almost 45whp going to a Treadstone IC of the same dimensions. The Treadstone was also notably MUCH heavier. Which may help with that weight distribution. Might also look into a 1/2 steel "splitter" style plate for the nose. Most of the Honda FWD guys are using these 80-100lb steel plates on the nose these days. significantly improves the 60' times. Great spot to mount a battery as well to shift more weight up front. Good luck, great content!
Maybe? I just made more 6 more hp than my GSX did with the exact same turbo and cams? The GSX has a really nice extruded-tube aluminum core. I literally know nothing about this one except for that to compare it to. My GSX didn't have water methanol injection and was supposed to be a half point lower in compression. I know one thing for sure... it works a dozen times better than it did back when it used to have a rag in it! I don't think that intercooler is staying in the GSX for the next round, and it would be a great hand-me-down. I'd just need to sandblast all the bling off it first.
@@Jafromobile Not sure if you have the ability? I use a cheap $16 amazon/china transducers and spare inputs on my mega squirt. I’ve heard of folks using a push-to-reset tire pressure gauge? IDK, may be worth putting in a bung in to test is all I’m suggesting. Def. don’t want to trash it without proof! It made a huge difference with my setup. Good luck!
hell yes, only starting to watch but so glad you did this video, I'm doing the same in an Evo. lighter subs closer to the driver should be a better experience than the trunk monstrosities I've been researching
If physics demand a monstrosity, you gotta give it a monstrosity.
You gotta love performance sub woofers that put out 364 hp
Yes, and that's only if I'm feeding them 93 octane!
This is gonna be good
It was a great video and definitely something I could see myself doing haha.
Just a heads up if your heater is still working you may wish to relocate the air going to the floor as its going to heat dump straight into the amps
(in all the years i cannot remember if it still works tho)
decades ago .... used my sub box as balist as my rwd volvo 340 was light over the rear axle.
I don't know which setting the vent baffles are broken on, but it's probably defrost. Your point is noted!
How in the heck did my miss a video drop pf yours youtube dropping the ball there.
Good video
Please! You're too kind!
@@Jafromobile what I like watching is your engine building videos
Bass boost EQ = +10hp, last time that I checked…. Bass boost bumper sticker
If nothing else, moving weight around gives you feedback and more data to work with so you can continue to improve. If you get faster times you'll be happy and you might even consider chucking a bag of cement in the passenger foot well. I think it will be well worth the effort!
Oooo I see a flex fuel sensor. Is the Elantra getting E85 next 🧐
Looks so nice to work in a 4 door car without a roll cage. damn doing anything in the back of my car is a feat of acrobatics.
I still get to do acrobatics occasionally. Wiring under the dash is really tricky but it's nothing like dealing with a stubborn roll cage. Fortunately I shouldn't have to perform the Jafro in the trunk routine anymore, though!
@@Jafromobile yeah clutch master cylinders are a treat with a doorbar and a seat in. that means upside down in the seat. If i have to do any meaningfull wiring under the dash it's luckily pretty fast to just take the whole thing out.
love the video content . are those amplifiers for sale. I'm from Trinidad and Tobago
Fantastic video, did the old sub get installed into the new garage with the Hifi?
Not yet! Honestly that Bose unit is hard to keep up with. It moves a lot of air for such a tiny but heavy box. I didn't expect that from it at all.
I need more amplification with the old subs if it's going to fill this large of a space. So obviously you made me consider it. Sealed enclosures aren't very loud. They're really punchy. These subs were rated to hold 1000 watts. They were fed about 2000w in a hatchback to win a competition, and they did. He won money and a trophy. The massively undersized sealed box is the only reason they survived it. 2000 watts through this thing had to be violent. I'm sure that's why they were free. I need a mono block and a DC amplifier powerful enough to drive it. If I get my hands on them, I'll do it. And if I just get the power supply, I'll probably still try it, dangit Louis, why'd you have to suggest that?!?! lol
Performance subwoofers!❤
Those performance sub woofers are adding down force for a better launch
Yes, that's why they're facing up. The added benefit being those sound waves are pushing up against me, and also making me lighter.
Glad I went with a small 10” on my miata. That should give me roughly 20Hp. Haha. Hey, the power you lose with a sub can be gained back with a 1 psi of boost.
Good to see you again.
How low can they go? I mean what’s the frequency response of these under seat woofers. Some claim they play down to 30hrz, which sounds unbelievable to me.
Unless they pump those enclosures full of antimatter (or something), trust your little voice.
Their rating has to be absurdly incorrect, or the testing method using its own set of rules. Claimed is 20-500, but the amplifier has a crossover chopping everything above 150Hz. So that must be the driver tested without its amp in some completely different environment. I will say this. I wouldn't want more power than this right under me. It's powerful enough that you won't listen to them at full volume for very long. They make an incredible amount of bass for something this small. Great solution for anything you haul kids and groceries in. If I was building a car for audio competition, it wouldn't be with these.
About oil pressure sensor, i think if you use a brake soft line extend to avoid vibrations will solve you problem.
I have a relocation kit that I can't install. I could if I could get any single one of the 3/8BSPT plugs out of it but they're all cemented in so tight I've nearly stripped the Allen heads out of them. It's coming back, now just wasn't the time.
jafro time
You need an mtx jackhammer pointed backwards for performance.
^ This guy gets it!!!
@@Jafromobile 😁😁, you may like my dodge avenger build, some say its not dsm, some say it is, i dunno, but i like it either way 😉
Not exactly rolling it old school...
I’m not sure what you’re going to do now Jafro? Janky wiring was always a mainstay to your performance gremlins. I remember when found the short by just jangling some wires under the hood? We might see some drag passes! Or you conquering fishing again. Maybe Big Red janky wiring might take over. 😅
LOL! I sure hope not! I'll have it back at the track again very soon. This time with a calibrated sensor and the right tune for it! Oh yeah, and a really clean interior!
@@Jafromobile beauty is on the inside 😂😂😂
Remember, almost all stereos say they deliver 50 watts per channel, but in fact it's just advertising and it's actually good if it's 15 watts per channel.🙃
Pretty much the same for all electronics, really. Whose standard do they have to follow for any of it? Measurements and weights are stubborn things but in the vaguest but shortest summary possible, everyone's workbench is calibrated differently.
a honda motor like that now days makes at least 500-600hp. Its why these dsm's are dying off like crazy and i see no one building new builds anymore.
Some of them do. Most of the Honda guys I talk to have all the same problems as the 4g63 crew once they get to that level. I think it's a matter of perspective because I know of dozens of new 4g projects within my own circles. I doubt that would surprise anyone though, I tend to be a 4g project magnet.
Yay I got some Jafro in my Jafro. Please please please, tell me that circuit breaker next to the fuel relay has an insulated cover or similar that covers those 2 bolts.
I stuffed a pair of vacuum caps over them. I had the same concern as you. ;) Good eye!
@@Jafromobile maybe some heat shrink over the nut and probably cut the posts off shorter.
Could also make a trunk 1 meca build out if it to 1 up him. If youd like some tips on competition grade designs and equipment let me know.
Hey jaffro you should buff racing stripes into the car
I tried... I couldn't get the tape to stick to it. :(
@@Jafromobile lol use some of that 200 mph tape
Love it. However that Alpine deck puts out 18watts a channel
Correct! 50 watts peak requires powering it with a defibrillator.
Those are some massive gains out of a pair of subs.
did yall up the boost to get that difference.. ? nice jump.. now the hard part.. getting traction.
I have an On/Off brand crimper... exactly the same but different. By any chance does Off/On brand make dies that are actually the same size and actually line up when installed in the jaws?
All if the dies lined up fairly well, but I wouldn't put it past them if they can't get off and on correct to also stamp the dies incorrectly.
I’m jealous, I wish the 1g had that much room under the seats. What is the module that’s in front of the parking brake? Can that also be removed or is that a body control module?
I believe it is! I can't find it in the Hyundai Service manual, but I believe it is. I haven't disconnected it to figure out what it disables yet. I've just been so hell-bent on getting it all right and back in once piece. If I'm ever forced to remove all of this yet again, you bet I'll find out!
The outro music vs Roho Del C's classic GSX teardown jam -- which produces a faster 60-foot?
I will find out this Friday!
My Man.gif
WOOO flex fuel!
💪⛽️
As much fun as it is to see the ridiculousness of the Hyundai, when do we get to see more of the gsx? I’m sure producing the kind of content is extremely time consuming but it’s enjoyable.
The clips of me at the shootout is actually me working on the GSX build. I had a lot more business there than just trying to bring an Elantra. I need to move the car to the shop and I'll get started. One of the benefits of these videos is that they have funded the GSX build. I don't want anything I didn't work for. Thanks to Patreon the build list is epic, and the work is about to begin. The next video is a GSX video, and things will start happening much faster once the car is moved.
@@Jafromobile I’m looking forward to it, there’s always a certain level of excitement whenever I get the notification that you posted a new video. One of the few people still making DSM content.
Wait, what's the brake booster doing on the right side? Trying to figure out how I missed that on all the other videos.
It's how Hyundai did it. There's a torque tube running across the interior from the driver's side. The Mirage and Colt chassis got the same treatment.
I see! I did not know that! Thank you!
Hey Jafro! Totally unrelated question but I know you hang around your new video comments for a bit. I recently dropped a valve on my galant’s engine and am wondering if you can tell me where to look to investigate why it happened? All timing marks still line up.
Sounds like bad luck, really? If major surgery occurred anytime recently, I'd go with keeper not seated right. A lubrication problem might cause an exhaust valve stem to bind? It's hard for me to guess without knowing its history, what it was doing when it failed and being able to poke around and look at things. To have a valve let go without contact sounds like an assembly error or a part defect.
Major surgery yes. Keepers are all in tact too.. best guess I have is a valve seized in the guide somehow. Lost an exhaust and an intake valve slapped a hole right through the piston. I appreciate the reply and realize it’s like asking a doctor over the internet what’s wrong with me because I cough. Just trying to figure out how to prevent it next time to the best of my ability.
Did it sit for a long time first?
@@Jafromobile no it was built on a stand dropped in the bay and started. Head was assembled at a machine shop. Engine only lasted 46 miles before the valve incident. Good vitals the whole time. Was coasting at 2500 rpm when it happened. We observed large counts of knock and my tuner agreed it was most likely phantom knock because when we were seeing it there was almost no fuel going into the engine but now it makes me wonder.
@@lilusername1004 Is it possible the opposite happened? That it was flooding one cylinder? Injector stuck open? liquid under pressure acts as a solid. Don't know how big your injectors are, but it's another possibility?
😎
Hope you found all the Peculiar wires and connectors for the automatic transmission junk 😆
You remember! lol
How do I get flames from ECM Link 2 step? I forgot my old settings. Thanks
Timing retard. It's irresponsible for me to make suggestions when valve float may occur... so my best advice is to open an old log you took, go into the settings tab where the antilog values live and retrieve them. If you're not using ECMlink where you can do that because it captures all the settings with every log, then you can slowly sneak up on it by adjusting your timing retard and testing it.
I thought for sure you'd shave off that 3 pounds of Hippie stuff, too.
I remember the abandoned Elantra on Chile 😔 😟
ME TOO! You mean the one on video here with handicap assist features?
now you can break the record with a factory spare tire in the trunk.
Don't tempt me!
Hydraulic crimping tool ? What is it ?🔧😎
Search HHY-70A. Everyone claims to make it.
This is the stuff I live for, removing something carefully crafted by someone smarter than me to make it do what I want. Subwoofers are cool too I guess.
You opening a rizub' n' tizug?
It would be great for my Rap career, especially if I get arrested!
Didn't think that was in there
Oh yeah... all this time... A lot of people think this is my race car?! lol. It's a grocery getter now that I've got my trunk back.
Having an amp screwed to the speaker box could potentially cause internal damage to the amp from the vibration of the subs. Just food for thought.
I have failed to kill a PPI amp like this, and this one's been with me for 20 years. I have killed a Rockford Fosgate and a Pioneer amp like that before, though. You can kinda tell by the speaker box that my fox supply was depleted when I installed it, though. I had none to spare back then. I have since replenished my fox inventory and it resulted in this video. We'll see how these hold up because the amplifier is INSIDE the speaker enclosure.
@@Jafromobile haha! I just got to finish watching. Very well done. Also another video of satisfaction like no other on the tube. 💯
Man you put to much money amd time into this car .put that time and money into the gsx that's the car everyone wants to see for last 7 years.
Actually I haven't spent that much on it at all. These subs are really cheap! Most everything but the engine wiring harness, coilovers, cutout and YoshiFab camber plates came from my scrap piles. The MW50 kit and the car itself were free. But time? Sure. I think it's all well worth it! Everything I'm learning from this one, including the traction issues, will be applied to the GSX build. I know that one's AWD, but it's still going to get the same treatments as a FWD to make the AWD work better. The GSX build sheet has doubled in length since the last update. When the GSX videos start dropping, you guys are going to be begging me for these fun Elantra videos again, I promise.
apple juice 💚
50W peak in a radio is nowhere near 50wrms from an amplifier.
I totally agree! But with the size speakers I have and how pointless audio quality is with all this 4g63t noise, the power this Alpine makes on board is more than adequate. The PPI 4400 was too powerful. Probably would have been nice with these under-seat subwoofers, but it's just too much. Right now it's just enough, but the subs I find myself having to turn down often. I probably could have done fine with only one.
@@Jafromobile "I probably would have been okay with just one" nobody ever says that Jafro. 😁 It would have thrown out your performance completely.
Weight reduction, you should weigh it & see what you were able to remove weight wise. A very nice up grade. Be safe . Making good use of the new shop as well (:
Get rid of that innovative gauge and wide band. This is only the beginning of inconsistencies.
I'm not ready to throw it away if the inconsistency we discovered remains to be a continuous one. I can very easily tune around being a half point lean on the gauge from what it's feeding the ECU now that the sensor is calibrated. I can just as easily adjust my octane tables. But that means my datalogs are still wrong if I do. So I'm looking for ways to permanently correct it using voltage offset.
This is an LC2, but I'm using the LC1 presets in ECMlink. There is no LC2 preset, so I've got to get it to work with a custom setting somehow? My current settings have voltage offset greyed out, but seeing it in there and just knowing that it has it, I know I can somehow find a way to change it. I just want to take all of ME out of the equation or find examples of the *same unit I have* experiencing any problems before I fully form my opinion of it. The videos of complaints are always a different model with a completely different gauge. I've had many years of consistent behavior whenever I've followed the calibration cycles, but this half point of fuel has still always in my tune as a result. I think it's because the LC1 voltage offset isn't right for it.
Ultimately I'm still the idiot who drove it without calibrating it first. I was really good about doing it for so long... but now I know what happens when you don't. The uncalibrated corrections end up in your long term fuel trims exactly 30 miles from your house and your trip is over.
@@Jafromobile I had the same thing and fought poor tunes and datalogs for years. The more uncertainty I had over the years caused me to not trust it. Along with not being able to get the ecu and gauge to be consistent was the most frustrating portion. I eventually upgraded and I no longer had to worry about poor fuel data.i actually don't have to mess with the tune any more btw.