xl7015 dc/dc step down overheats from load in several op amps? 😱 Something is wrong with the xl7015 connection on the board, perhaps the inductance of the wrong value, or just fake xl7015
I'm beginning to think they must be fakes, in fact probably all the chips in this board. It's probably why some boards are double the price. I'm looking at another more expensive board right now, looks a much better design.
I know I'm late to the party on this one but... I recently came into posession of a pair of these boards, made by Shui Yuan Audio in China. The over-heating regulator problem you spotted seems to be corrected. On these boards they got only slightly warm to touch at 48 volts. The excessive idle current issues you spotted are actually (laughably) because of the two eye piercing LEDs on the board. They operate in a rather strange way, in that they default to on at 20ma each. Then to turn them off if there is a fault or clipping, the Clip/OTW and Fault outputs on the chip are used to drive a transistor to short out the LEDs, putting increased load on the series resistors which again increases current loading. In a proper amplifier those leds would be off and drawing no power unless either Clip/OTW or Fault goes to the active low state and even then they should draw only enough current to be visible (not bright) so they don't interfere with a technician's eyesight while troubleshooting the problem. Also be aware that a big part of the overheating issue you spotted is that, on mine at least, the heatsinks were dry, no thermal compound, which makes for a very poor transfer of heat. Even cheap old white thermal paste improves the situation remarkably. I've run them up to 48 volts with no problems, listened to them for a few hours and they seem okay to me... but lets be real, they're not "hifi" designs. Those boards are made for experimenters and tinkerers... not music lovers.
Yes, you do need sunglasses to listen to this amplifier. It's good they seem to have fixed the regulator issue. I've had more mail on these amplifiers, complaining of the regulators failing and overheating that any other products.
@@MichaelBeeny I had both of mine idling at 48 volts for a few hours yesterday without any problems. This, of course doesn't mean it's fixed on a wide scale. I might simply have been the lucky one. For the LEDs... I'm trying to work out a way to remove that entire section of parts from the board and hook up an external LED driver that makes sense. Something like the Power, Clip, Protect triads you see on pro-audio gear. It's some high-end tinkering... I'll let you know if I have any luck with it.
Following up on yesterday's notes ... I just ran these boards up... I was able to pull power just like on the front page of the TPA3255 spec sheet ... about 110 watts on 8 ohms, almost 230 on 4 ohms, 48 volts, very low distortion. with an input of 1 volt rms. It ran that way until my dummy loads started smelling funny... and man were they HOT. With proper paste on the heat sink, the amplifier got pretty warm but not what I would call excessively hot. I can't say, at this point, if the maker addressed the issues, you got a bad one or if I got lucky ... but the ones I have do seem to be performing "as advertised'.
For anyone reading this in the future I think the Shui Yuan Audio boards are ok but the one Michael had is a cheaper version that copied the Shui Yuan board and shouldn't be used. Heck of a world now where the Chinese are copying a copied low cost board! Lol
I had bought this board abought 8 months ago and it wouldn't come out of fault mode on any voltage from 24 to 48. I had fun using a 2kg hatchet on it... very exciting!
I would have insisted on my money returned David. Mind you the hatchet does sound a good alternative. This version does seem to be very poor and troublesome. Not recommended at all.
I think they changed the SM chip think its the HV version . (no heating fom the chip) . Just bought mine a few days ago . drew arond 120mA and pushed out 156Watt @4 ohms without fuzzyness and 165Watt with fuzzyness . 78watt @8 ohm . Both tests were done with 46volt supply . So yeah I guess they tweaked it a bit
I've bought a board with the same layout - Shui Yuan Audio branded. To me it sounds very good on 36v but speaking about fake components - Nichicon main filter caps (I suppose they could be genuine) and the smaller electrolytic labelled as nichicon fw 10uf 50v. In actual fact these are more likely 25v caps with false labels but the boards silk screen and hole spacing is more designed for a 50v equ. The opamps don't look like the 5532's I've bought through Mouser but they do pass the diode test you enlightened me on one of your past videos. Kind regards.
I've just ordered a 2.1, dual 3255 amplifier, and that board also lists a 36v maximum input! I'm gonna look the board over to try and deduce what fake components it has.
Also got duo fan equipped 3255 ,,fans help very little , 8 ohm load ,not warm!!, harrison xmods @70 hz dulls hi frequency response, use electronic xover for good frequency response.. carbon fiber 8's,,5in poly mica,ribbon tweets. Dayton 500watt sub and duo 18's. Phone driven, trailer park audiophile, in wheelchair..lol
Get a real fan,mount it above fins, do turn up the adjustment to 38v and check the rating on the caps, buy the best one ,all are cheap made, inspect..it..
Hello. Thank you for the great videos. I just got this amp today. I connected the 24v and it turned out to be faulty. The stabilizer XL7015 and the inductor behind it failed. Privately, something better to replace. What ideas?
I think that same device failed on my first unit. I need to look into that regulator. I'm looking at a something better right now. Early results look good. Watch this space.
Modules on XL7015 are available for sale, maybe they do not contain a fake chip. Modules on lm2596hv should also fit, but almost all lm2596hv chips in it are fake...
Hi Michael, do you have the idle current of the other tpa3255 board? Are they significantly different? I think the chokes runs hot too and the whole board would benefit if it is fan cooled
I'm looking at such a board right now, still in the listening stage, not hit the bench yet. I must admit in these early stages, I'm quite impressed so far. I will report back soon on this one.
I wonder if these chips are TPA3251 chips that have been rebranded into TPA3255 ... basically fake chips... You can get the TPA3251 for almost half the price of a TPA3255 and if you are placing them into products like this you can easily erase and laser etch a new number on them or just sand and polish the numbers off. They are the same exact footprint.
@@michaelgu9907 WEll cool, would be nice i you`d tell me how much wattage they put out. From one review iǜe heard they are only 100W/ Channel at 4 Ohms. :)
@@MasterBlaster220 actually the pottential is 315w/channel @4 omhs and it is safe@ 36v not 48v. I am using 1 sub 250rms dual, 1 full range 300w 4 ohms and 2 bullet ti tweeter on it and its party.its loud that i cant get near on the box.
@@michaelgu9907 That confuses me a lot. If we talk about max 1% distortion Michael who made the video himself said that it has max.100W at 4 Ohms per channel.
Using a linear regulator to drop 48V or more to logic level is inherently problematic as all of that excess voltage has to burned as heat at whatever current is being drawn by those components. Active regulation would be better, but we'd want a high regulation frequency to avoid adding noise. Running the logic with any kind of efficiency is one of the biggest challenges of these boards, as the class D audio chip is extremely efficient while its logic supply is usually not.
Maybe I miss understand Rob, but the 48-to-12-volt regulator is not linear, it's a switcher. The inductor is near the component. The 3.3 regulator is a linear regulator, however.
Michael, unless you’re willing to tell your audience the name of the actual seller, you’re really not doing us a service. I mean without knowing who the seller is, we can’t avoid the same problem, and there is no incentive for the seller to do what he/she can to resolve the problem. In my opinion, the point of a video such as this is to warn others and to motivate the seller(s) to do what can to fix this issue, but hey I don’t know, maybe it’s just me.
I do take your point but it's the product that's at fault mostly. If you look through E Bay, Ali etc you will find dozens of retailers selling exactly the same item. Because of this just don't purchase any of them that look like this one. How ever the supplier name is Cloudear on Amazon. YaSao TPA3255 Class D Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 24-48V 2.0 Channel Mini Digital Audio Stereo Amplifier PCB Board 300W + 300W for Audio System DIY Speakers Brand: YaSao
Thank you for the info. I guess another point would be that if that retailer is selling one fake board, he/she may be selling others, hence I wouldn’t feel comfortable buying anything from that particular company. I personally wouldn’t go as far as to say that every company on the web is selling that board with fake components, because that probably isn’t the case. Thanks again. BTW, you inspired me to build my own L12-2 amp. Love most of your videos, thanks for posting.
@@mrmax1467 I still love the L12/2. The fact you love SOME of my videos is just fine with me, even I don't like all of them! You should see some that I never upload!
There are many who test this type of class-d. Especially a channel on youtube. I have also tested many. They are built on the same principle, almost the same, only with different amplifier ICs. chips. The sound quality of them is not the best!
xl7015 dc/dc step down overheats from load in several op amps? 😱 Something is wrong with the xl7015 connection on the board, perhaps the inductance of the wrong value, or just fake xl7015
I'm beginning to think they must be fakes, in fact probably all the chips in this board. It's probably why some boards are double the price. I'm looking at another more expensive board right now, looks a much better design.
Try boards based on irs2092, there seems to be nothing to fake.
I know I'm late to the party on this one but...
I recently came into posession of a pair of these boards, made by Shui Yuan Audio in China.
The over-heating regulator problem you spotted seems to be corrected. On these boards they got only slightly warm to touch at 48 volts.
The excessive idle current issues you spotted are actually (laughably) because of the two eye piercing LEDs on the board. They operate in a rather strange way, in that they default to on at 20ma each. Then to turn them off if there is a fault or clipping, the Clip/OTW and Fault outputs on the chip are used to drive a transistor to short out the LEDs, putting increased load on the series resistors which again increases current loading. In a proper amplifier those leds would be off and drawing no power unless either Clip/OTW or Fault goes to the active low state and even then they should draw only enough current to be visible (not bright) so they don't interfere with a technician's eyesight while troubleshooting the problem.
Also be aware that a big part of the overheating issue you spotted is that, on mine at least, the heatsinks were dry, no thermal compound, which makes for a very poor transfer of heat. Even cheap old white thermal paste improves the situation remarkably.
I've run them up to 48 volts with no problems, listened to them for a few hours and they seem okay to me... but lets be real, they're not "hifi" designs. Those boards are made for experimenters and tinkerers... not music lovers.
Yes, you do need sunglasses to listen to this amplifier. It's good they seem to have fixed the regulator issue. I've had more mail on these amplifiers, complaining of the regulators failing and overheating that any other products.
@@MichaelBeeny
I had both of mine idling at 48 volts for a few hours yesterday without any problems. This, of course doesn't mean it's fixed on a wide scale. I might simply have been the lucky one.
For the LEDs... I'm trying to work out a way to remove that entire section of parts from the board and hook up an external LED driver that makes sense. Something like the Power, Clip, Protect triads you see on pro-audio gear. It's some high-end tinkering... I'll let you know if I have any luck with it.
Following up on yesterday's notes ...
I just ran these boards up... I was able to pull power just like on the front page of the TPA3255 spec sheet ... about 110 watts on 8 ohms, almost 230 on 4 ohms, 48 volts, very low distortion. with an input of 1 volt rms. It ran that way until my dummy loads started smelling funny... and man were they HOT. With proper paste on the heat sink, the amplifier got pretty warm but not what I would call excessively hot.
I can't say, at this point, if the maker addressed the issues, you got a bad one or if I got lucky ... but the ones I have do seem to be performing "as advertised'.
For anyone reading this in the future I think the Shui Yuan Audio boards are ok but the one Michael had is a cheaper version that copied the Shui Yuan board and shouldn't be used. Heck of a world now where the Chinese are copying a copied low cost board! Lol
I am a silent viewers of your 2 years ago.. I watched most of your amplifier reviews.
Thank you, you are most welcome to my channel. Feel free to comment any time, but English please lol.
I had bought this board abought 8 months ago and it wouldn't come out of fault mode on any voltage from 24 to 48. I had fun using a 2kg hatchet on it... very exciting!
I would have insisted on my money returned David. Mind you the hatchet does sound a good alternative. This version does seem to be very poor and troublesome. Not recommended at all.
If you were judging by the LEDs on the boards... for some idiotic reason they are ON for normal and OFF for problems... totally backwards.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 It didn't work no matter what I did, Chinese junk stay from this board, look for better ones to purchase
@@DavidSmith-dm8ew
Luckily I didn't purchase these two. They were a gift from a friend... and so far they are both working.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 Unfortunatly I was very disappointed when it didn't work :(
I think they changed the SM chip think its the HV version . (no heating fom the chip) . Just bought mine a few days ago . drew arond 120mA and pushed out 156Watt @4 ohms without fuzzyness and 165Watt with fuzzyness . 78watt @8 ohm . Both tests were done with 46volt supply . So yeah I guess they tweaked it a bit
Thanks a lot for your info. Could you give me a direct link to the seller you purchased from? I would like ot get one but not have an older batch.
I've bought a board with the same layout - Shui Yuan Audio branded. To me it sounds very good on 36v but speaking about fake components - Nichicon main filter caps (I suppose they could be genuine) and the smaller electrolytic labelled as nichicon fw 10uf 50v. In actual fact these are more likely 25v caps with false labels but the boards silk screen and hole spacing is more designed for a 50v equ. The opamps don't look like the 5532's I've bought through Mouser but they do pass the diode test you enlightened me on one of your past videos. Kind regards.
I think if you keep the voltage at around the 36 volts you should be OK. Good to see the 5532s are not fakes.
perhaps it would help if you could also get a basic IR thermometer for looking at temperature, touch method might burn the fingers some day
At least if you burn your fingers, it's
way too hot. lol
I've just ordered a 2.1, dual 3255 amplifier, and that board also lists a 36v maximum input! I'm gonna look the board over to try and deduce what fake components it has.
Don't forget to report back Bradley.
Also got duo fan equipped 3255 ,,fans help very little , 8 ohm load ,not warm!!, harrison xmods @70 hz dulls hi frequency response, use electronic xover for good frequency response.. carbon fiber 8's,,5in poly mica,ribbon tweets. Dayton 500watt sub and duo 18's. Phone driven, trailer park audiophile, in wheelchair..lol
Get a real fan,mount it above fins, do turn up the adjustment to 38v and check the rating on the caps, buy the best one ,all are cheap made, inspect..it..
Hello. Thank you for the great videos. I just got this amp today. I connected the 24v and it turned out to be faulty. The stabilizer XL7015 and the inductor behind it failed. Privately, something better to replace. What ideas?
I think that same device failed on my first unit. I need to look into that regulator. I'm looking at a something better right now. Early results look good. Watch this space.
Modules on XL7015 are available for sale, maybe they do not contain a fake chip. Modules on lm2596hv should also fit, but almost all lm2596hv chips in it are fake...
@@makoveliprod By coincidence I have just received 2 of these modules. Expect a video on these soon.
Good test!
Hi Michael, do you have the idle current of the other tpa3255 board? Are they significantly different?
I think the chokes runs hot too and the whole board would benefit if it is fan cooled
I'm looking at such a board right now, still in the listening stage, not hit the bench yet. I must admit in these early stages, I'm quite impressed so far. I will report back soon on this one.
You need to calculate the RMS value of the sine wave before you calculate the power
Both my meter and scope do already read true RMS
i'm using aiyima a07 and it no problem with xl7015 like this board
I wonder if these chips are TPA3251 chips that have been rebranded into TPA3255 ... basically fake chips... You can get the TPA3251 for almost half the price of a TPA3255 and if you are placing them into products like this you can easily erase and laser etch a new number on them or just sand and polish the numbers off. They are the same exact footprint.
You may well be correct, makes sense.
I bought 1 of this 3255 for about 30usd. I run in 36v 7A to be safe and its a good board so far in my DIY. it can push my dual 250 rms RF sub in 1 ch.
Just curious, have you measured the actual power output? I have a 31V supply and wanted to get one as 2nd amp.
@@MasterBlaster220 yes and still powerful now am using another smps of 36V 16.6Amps and its more crisp.
@@michaelgu9907 WEll cool, would be nice i you`d tell me how much wattage they put out. From one review iǜe heard they are only 100W/ Channel at 4 Ohms. :)
@@MasterBlaster220 actually the pottential is 315w/channel @4 omhs and it is safe@ 36v not 48v. I am using 1 sub 250rms dual, 1 full range 300w 4 ohms and 2 bullet ti tweeter on it and its party.its loud that i cant get near on the box.
@@michaelgu9907 That confuses me a lot. If we talk about max 1% distortion Michael who made the video himself said that it has max.100W at 4 Ohms per channel.
What do you call a naked capacitor at the North Pole?
A polar bear! 😆
These amps sure seem to sell like hotcakes in Alaska!
Using a linear regulator to drop 48V or more to logic level is inherently problematic as all of that excess voltage has to burned as heat at whatever current is being drawn by those components. Active regulation would be better, but we'd want a high regulation frequency to avoid adding noise. Running the logic with any kind of efficiency is one of the biggest challenges of these boards, as the class D audio chip is extremely efficient while its logic supply is usually not.
Maybe I miss understand Rob, but the 48-to-12-volt regulator is not linear, it's a switcher. The inductor is near the component. The 3.3 regulator is a linear regulator, however.
Michael, unless you’re willing to tell your audience the name of the actual seller, you’re really not doing us a service. I mean without knowing who the seller is, we can’t avoid the same problem, and there is no incentive for the seller to do what he/she can to resolve the problem. In my opinion, the point of a video such as this is to warn others and to motivate the seller(s) to do what can to fix this issue, but hey I don’t know, maybe it’s just me.
I do take your point but it's the product that's at fault mostly. If you look through E Bay, Ali etc you will find dozens of retailers selling exactly the same item. Because of this just don't purchase any of them that look like this one.
How ever the supplier name is Cloudear on Amazon.
YaSao TPA3255 Class D Digital Power Amplifier Board DC 24-48V 2.0 Channel Mini Digital Audio Stereo Amplifier PCB Board 300W + 300W for Audio System DIY Speakers
Brand: YaSao
Thank you for the info. I guess another point would be that if that retailer is selling one fake board, he/she may be selling others, hence I wouldn’t feel comfortable buying anything from that particular company. I personally wouldn’t go as far as to say that every company on the web is selling that board with fake components, because that probably isn’t the case.
Thanks again. BTW, you inspired me to build my own L12-2 amp. Love most of your videos, thanks for posting.
@@mrmax1467 I still love the L12/2. The fact you love SOME of my videos is just fine with me, even I don't like all of them! You should see some that I never upload!
This has little to do with the seller as these products are available from many sellers.
There are many who test this type of class-d. Especially a channel on youtube. I have also tested many. They are built on the same principle, almost the same, only with different amplifier ICs. chips.
The sound quality of them is not the best!
Chinese destroy hobby electronics due to fake parts. I dont buy anything from them.