Stainless does indeed finish up beautifully. About 14 years ago I dealt with a fab shop in Niagara Falls Ontario to make up a sliding jig for a process at work and while visiting their shop I saw a side business the owner has making replacement C3 Corvette frames. They offer them in carbon steel and stainless (natural and polished) The show/demo frame was a completely polished stainless rolling chassis and it was amazing to see in the shop and I am sure even more amazing in the sunlight.
I'm trying to get my head around buying a TIG welding set up for stainless & aluminium in an automotive shop environment. You have a lot of welders on your rack there at time 10:43. I'm going to have a look if you explain these in your other videos. If not, maybe that would be a good one for the likes of someone like myself. The array is bewildering. Great video, I borrowed a spool if stainless & ran it in our mig for an exhaust job, but it wasn't that great. Thanks for your time.
Muy buen trabajo, limpio y efectivo como siempre. Algún día tendré una mesa como la tuya que bueno es trabajar con buenas herramientas. Un saludo desde España
nice job there Jim, just one thing I was wondering why you did not have a respirator or n95 mask as the fumes from welding stainless are cancer causing because of the chromium , this is what I am hearing so I weld stainless outside to be safe. You always do a great job .
Nice work. Just FYI stainless steel dust and fumes from welding or heating will kill you over time. Hexavalent Chromium is poisonous. You need to wear a respirator or keep a vent tube very close to the work space.
tnx for your informative video, what mig settings should be set on our welder machine for 5mm flat Y-butt (3mm gap) weld of stainless steel in order to achieve spray arc transfer mode?
I see that you didn't use flux on the inside of the tubing to prevent "sugaring", seems to me that using a flux like Harris S0FB01Type B Solar Welding Flux would guarantee the weld from cracking in the future.
Isnt that to much co2. I would believe that 2 - 8 percent co2 is more apropriate, but 75/25 is the most common for mag welding, so if it works out just fine that would be great. But I think that the welds are gonna rust a little due to the added carbon content. You could see the soot after each weld. But I love the way stainless melts, it gets so fluid. Really nice to weld, and really worthless to cut and work with in any other method than just welding. I hate and love stainless. Hehe. Great video!
I’ve never welded stainless before I’ve had 30 years of welding experiences, a auto body and frame technician. I am building a 65 Mustang I have to modify a set of stainless headers and I have 2 1/2 inch stainless exhaust. I bought flux core wire for my welder, my question is I see you’re using fluxcore wire why are you running gas with it? Do I need to run my argon? CO2 mix with the flux core to weld up my exhaust . I do have a good TIG welder. Unfortunately I’ve yet to weld with it I haven’t gotten a bottle for.
There’s FCAW-S (self-shielded) & FCAW-G (gas shielded) wire. You typically run 75%Ar/ 25%Co2 with the FCAW-G process. I was confused as to why Jim was running a gas shielded flux cored wire in the pulse spray transfer mode. Using that transfer mode for that wire lends itself to slag inclusions.
Man Jimbo you make everything look so nice, I've never ground my welds before but they sure look nice. I don't weld anything over .25 and I get really good penetration so I suppose grinding them wouldn't hurt. Keep up the great work my friend.
Hi Jimbo I really enjoy your videos they do inspire me to get out into my garage. You like to grind down your welds, I also agree makes the job look much better. Do you ever grind the inner corners as I have never seen you do this. If you do what do you use to get in to smooth them.?
Great video. Thanks . Couple of things Can you share what wire you used again? Also the program you selected was for 98% Argon and 2% CO2, have you tried that gas? I am using *6 from praxair - 98/2 with 308L .030 wire (not flux-core) and my welds are "just ok" I was wondering if you had tried using non-dual-shield?
Thank you for the vid. I do plenty of carbon steel fabrication making things for my farm. I need to fabricate small animal enclosures out of 304 or 316 stainless tube and mesh. Do I need to change the liner in my MIG or the nozzle and contact tip or can I just change the wire and go to work? Sorry if this is a dumb question....
Hi 👍🏾 I want to purchase a industry calculator and cannot remember the brand you have. Is to calculate materials for welding. I will purchase on amazon.
Jimbo Those blades can be oricey. I know that they can re-sharpen carbide wood cutting blades, might be worth checking to see if the folks who regrind/sharpen carbide tpped chopsaw blades could do the same on the Slugger blade? Might get you a back-up blade at the least for a lut less than a new blade John
Cutting stainless steel band saw is my cutter of choice with a variable speed control need to slow speed down on blade so you don't temper and harden stainless material slower blade speed is key ... Just use good Lenox blade for steel ...
Jimbo, sometimes you add chamfers to the end of your tubing to give room for welding, other times you don't, can you help me understand when to use them and when they can be skipped?
I have an Evolution saw that is similar to your Slugger. My blades have carbide tips and the instructions say to avoid cutting (even carbon steel) flat as that will overheat the blade and cause the carbide to break off. I know that trying to cut square or rectangle tubing laying it on an angle (cutting with the corners pointing up and down) makes the corner joints a lot more challenging though since you really can't get a miter cut that way.
Nope, he's correct - you're best always cutting tube clamped up on a 45 degree angle. Less strain on the blade - the long flats cuts cause too much friction/heat. But with that cold saw he can't really do that if he wants miter cuts, so that's why Jimbo cut these on the flat. But for sure Jimbo needs to purchase blades made specifically for stainless. Evolution makes 3 awesome blades: one for mild steel, one for stainless and one for aluminum. Using the right blade extends their use considerably, as well as giving the best smooth cuts per the type of metal.
Nice work. I welded some stainless the other day and caused me nothing but problems with going out of shape. It was 50 x 50 x 3 angle 316SS and all I had to do was tig weld a couple of fitting in the middle of a 3m length. Had it held tight but just could not keep it straight using TIG. It would bend like a banana with any heat put into it. Mig would have certainly helped keeping the distortion down.
I really dig your videos, and I'm hesitant to even recommend you change anything... but have you ever considered a lav or "lapel" microphone? You could couple that with like a pocket size ZOOM digital recorder and it could make your audio a little better and easier to work with. Unfortunately it does add a little extra complication to your videos.. but it might be worth it in the end. :)
Thought that too, don't remember a Metabo in the fleet, but I'll have to check my records (j/k). I believe he is of the school of many grinders thought.
Completely true. Diablo (Freud) is the only company that I know of that sells a 14" blade that they state right on it can be used for both steel and stainless steel. And these blades are fairly cheap compared to the other available stainless steel blades.
@@satamanschmidt3428 Evolution makes an awesome 14" blade specifically for ss, I've cut tons of 316 and it's still cutting like new. I tried that Diablo and it didn't last more than a dozen cuts on the 316, which made me look into the Evolution and I've never looked back.
Not unless you have diamond tooling. They aren't that expensive to sharpen. Probably about $30. I use Scott's Sharpening Service here in Phoenix. The types of blades that can't be sharpened are those that have the European anti-kickback design behind the teeth which hood the carbide so that the diamond tools can't get to them. Porter-Cable's Riptide blades are made this way and their 1410 dry cut saw was one of the first ever introduced to the American market. A normal triple chip blade like that used by Fein on this machine are no different than those used in woodworking and can be sharpened several times for reasonable money. Jimbo lets his blades go way too far before he switches them out. I keep mine on a rotation so that when I can start to feel one getting dull it's off to Scott's and another one takes its place. With three blades in rotation and changed at the proper time you will not need to buy another blade for 5 years minimum.
Jimbo, you've got me confused. First off you're mentioning welding gas which in the case of stainless steel is always a tri-mix so 75/25 isn't going to cut in on normal non-fluxed solid wire. Then you're chipping slag off of the weld which indicates that you're using a flux cored wire which has no need for shielding gas. I looked on HTP's site and they don't have a dual shield stainless wire so: WHAT'S THE DEAL?
Thanks for watching SATAMAN, This is a dual shield ( gas shielded) flux cored wire. They make a gas-less flux cored and a gas shielded flux cored stainless wire. The one with the gas, The one i'm using here is a E309LT1 if you wish to look it up and check a little deeper than that.... And yes - 75/25 is the recommended gas for that ( since that flux burning off creates the rest of the shielding gas atmosphere that is required). I hope that shines some light on this for you. Go to usaweld.com and you will find that wire there. That is where i got mine! Jimbo!
wow I was told to use tri mix gas for stainless its 3 times the cost looks like you going cheap I see that its going to x-ray and a dual shield flux core and running gas ????
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I may weld 10 times a year but I subscribed because of your awesome video , Thank you
Stainless does indeed finish up beautifully. About 14 years ago I dealt with a fab shop in Niagara Falls Ontario to make up a sliding jig for a process at work and while visiting their shop I saw a side business the owner has making replacement C3 Corvette frames. They offer them in carbon steel and stainless (natural and polished) The show/demo frame was a completely polished stainless rolling chassis and it was amazing to see in the shop and I am sure even more amazing in the sunlight.
Wow Jimbo! This is so incredibly helpful for me as a beginner. Thank you very much.
Turned out great. Nice job.
Thanks Richard, Jimbo!
Awesome video - I learned a lot! Thanks for posting.
Nice video.. nice comment and descriptions of your tools .. good explanations.. thanks uncle Jimbo 😊
From Northern Iraq, kurdistan, Erbil
Nice job, JIMBO 👍
I'm trying to get my head around buying a TIG welding set up for stainless & aluminium in an automotive shop environment. You have a lot of welders on your rack there at time 10:43. I'm going to have a look if you explain these in your other videos. If not, maybe that would be a good one for the likes of someone like myself. The array is bewildering. Great video, I borrowed a spool if stainless & ran it in our mig for an exhaust job, but it wasn't that great.
Thanks for your time.
You need the right gas
You are a wery smart guy like made in poland 😎. Greetings from Slovenia 🇸🇮
Greetings from California
I have never done any welding on stainless. Very nice job!
Good work! Thanks for share. 👍🏻⛰🦅
Awesome build, like always....👍🏻
Nice work!
Very nice Jimbo🙂
Metal fab is sick 😎 Great work
nice work!
Muy buen trabajo, limpio y efectivo como siempre.
Algún día tendré una mesa como la tuya que bueno es trabajar con buenas herramientas.
Un saludo desde España
great Video as always. There are blades available specifically for stainless.
Jimbo, have you tried this type of welding? LightWELD 1500 Laser Welding System! Would love to see a video on this style!
Nice work looks great!!!👍👍👍
nice job there Jim, just one thing I was wondering why you did not have a respirator or n95 mask as the fumes from welding stainless are
cancer causing because of the chromium , this is what I am hearing so I weld stainless outside to be safe. You always do a great job .
I'm looking at the optrel e3000X systems for my PAPR. I think that might be the best one available.
nice job jimbo........................all the best................dougie
Thanks dougie, Jimbo!
Nice work. Just FYI stainless steel dust and fumes from welding or heating will kill you over time. Hexavalent Chromium is poisonous. You need to wear a respirator or keep a vent tube very close to the work space.
If I’m mig welding stainless steel exhaust tips what wire should I use with 75/25 mix
nice video
Hi Jimbo.
What would be best for a beginner to use on stainless steel, I have welding rods and fluxcore as options?
I bought a Freud Diablo which does steel and SS. It’s not terribly expensive, but it’s a pretty good one.
Very well done video. Thank you
Nice welding 😁
the area where you live looks beautiful
tnx for your informative video, what mig settings should be set on our welder machine for 5mm flat Y-butt (3mm gap) weld of stainless steel in order to achieve spray arc transfer mode?
Where did you get the perforated table?
What brand blade are you using on the chop saw? I haven't found one that lasts more than a few cuts on steel, let alone trying it on stainless. Thanx.
I see that you didn't use flux on the inside of the tubing to prevent "sugaring", seems to me that using a flux like Harris S0FB01Type B Solar Welding Flux would guarantee the weld from cracking in the future.
Certified and been welding for Years without a problem.
What welding wire did you use?
Isnt that to much co2. I would believe that 2 - 8 percent co2 is more apropriate, but 75/25 is the most common for mag welding, so if it works out just fine that would be great. But I think that the welds are gonna rust a little due to the added carbon content. You could see the soot after each weld. But I love the way stainless melts, it gets so fluid. Really nice to weld, and really worthless to cut and work with in any other method than just welding. I hate and love stainless. Hehe. Great video!
I’ve never welded stainless before I’ve had 30 years of welding experiences, a auto body and frame technician. I am building a 65 Mustang I have to modify a set of stainless headers and I have 2 1/2 inch stainless exhaust. I bought flux core wire for my welder, my question is I see you’re using fluxcore wire why are you running gas with it? Do I need to run my argon? CO2 mix with the flux core to weld up my exhaust . I do have a good TIG welder. Unfortunately I’ve yet to weld with it I haven’t gotten a bottle for.
There’s FCAW-S (self-shielded) &
FCAW-G (gas shielded) wire. You typically run 75%Ar/ 25%Co2 with the FCAW-G process.
I was confused as to why Jim was running a gas shielded flux cored wire in the pulse spray transfer mode. Using that transfer mode for that wire lends itself to slag inclusions.
Man Jimbo you make everything look so nice, I've never ground my welds before but they sure look nice. I don't weld anything over .25 and I get really good penetration so I suppose grinding them wouldn't hurt. Keep up the great work my friend.
Hi Jimbo I really enjoy your videos they do inspire me to get out into my garage. You like to grind down your welds, I also agree makes the job look much better. Do you ever grind the inner corners as I have never seen you do this. If you do what do you use to get in to smooth them.?
Nice, what grinning disk used sir?
Thanks for watching, Mercer industries. Jimbo!
Great video. Thanks . Couple of things Can you share what wire you used again? Also the program you selected was for 98% Argon and 2% CO2, have you tried that gas? I am using *6 from praxair - 98/2 with 308L .030 wire (not flux-core) and my welds are "just ok" I was wondering if you had tried using non-dual-shield?
can you tell me the brand of auto adjustable clamps in this video ??
Thanks Jimbo
Thanks for watching, Armor clamps, Get them at weldtables.com Jimbo!
@@JimbosGarage Thanks, Got them
Can used pure argon for stainlesssteel welding?
Yes, but only for TIG.
You need a stainless cutting blade made for stainless
Hey love your videos and it motivates me to be the best I can... really need an advice on the last stage polish on it? What exactly did you use?
Check out stainless steel pipe vertical position weld
ua-cam.com/video/mTCNjjhy9u4/v-deo.html
The slugger blade can be sharpened 3 / 4 times the tips are carbide
Looked and sure enough a post on what I was going to say. Always try to have any carbide tipped blade resharpened. Saves a lot of money.
Thank you for the vid. I do plenty of carbon steel fabrication making things for my farm. I need to fabricate small animal enclosures out of 304 or 316 stainless tube and mesh. Do I need to change the liner in my MIG or the nozzle and contact tip or can I just change the wire and go to work? Sorry if this is a dumb question....
Thanks for watching, No, Just the wire. Jimbo!
Where did you get that table
Always weld from inside to outside of you 45 degree angles
thats weird, I cant find that wire on usa welds site? Id like to try some of it but I dont see it on there?
Thanks for watching, It should be there! If you can't find it you can call customer service. (800) USAWELD. JIMBO!
don't forget that its technically not mig wire. It's dual shield flux core wire.
Welder with a settings menu 🤯🤯🤯
Hi 👍🏾 I want to purchase a industry calculator and cannot remember the brand you have. Is to calculate materials for welding. I will purchase on amazon.
Jimbo
Those blades can be oricey. I know that they can re-sharpen carbide wood cutting blades, might be worth checking to see if the folks who regrind/sharpen carbide tpped chopsaw blades could do the same on the Slugger blade? Might get you a back-up blade at the least for a lut less than a new blade
John
Can you please tell me the welding machine you are using?
Watch the video again - he did state the machine model early in the video.
Sweet 👍
Cutting stainless steel band saw is my cutter of choice with a variable speed control need to slow speed down on blade so you don't temper and harden stainless material slower blade speed is key ... Just use good Lenox blade for steel ...
Jimbo, sometimes you add chamfers to the end of your tubing to give room for welding, other times you don't, can you help me understand when to use them and when they can be skipped?
Thin vs thick material, that thin wall stuff he can just burn through, no chamfering required
@@roguecnc788 3/8 and up is my rule of thumb.
How much did you charge to do this job?
I have an Evolution saw that is similar to your Slugger. My blades have carbide tips and the instructions say to avoid cutting (even carbon steel) flat as that will overheat the blade and cause the carbide to break off. I know that trying to cut square or rectangle tubing laying it on an angle (cutting with the corners pointing up and down) makes the corner joints a lot more challenging though since you really can't get a miter cut that way.
I think you misinterpreted- they mean if you are cutting a flat bar (for ex.) don't cut it lying flat, you cut it standing upright..
Nope, he's correct - you're best always cutting tube clamped up on a 45 degree angle. Less strain on the blade - the long flats cuts cause too much friction/heat. But with that cold saw he can't really do that if he wants miter cuts, so that's why Jimbo cut these on the flat. But for sure Jimbo needs to purchase blades made specifically for stainless. Evolution makes 3 awesome blades: one for mild steel, one for stainless and one for aluminum. Using the right blade extends their use considerably, as well as giving the best smooth cuts per the type of metal.
Nice work. I welded some stainless the other day and caused me nothing but problems with going out of shape. It was 50 x 50 x 3 angle 316SS and all I had to do was tig weld a couple of fitting in the middle of a 3m length. Had it held tight but just could not keep it straight using TIG. It would bend like a banana with any heat put into it. Mig would have certainly helped keeping the distortion down.
Tig is the absolute way to weld stainless. Its cleaner, you can control the heat more, and cause less distortion.
Try using pulse. It's best to travel faster with higher amps than slow with fewer amps.
Did you not repassify the stainless after welding? I believe it will rust without doing so. Thoughts or comments appreciated. Nice work by the way
If you grind away the oxide layer on the HAZ it won't rust
I really dig your videos, and I'm hesitant to even recommend you change anything... but have you ever considered a lav or "lapel" microphone? You could couple that with like a pocket size ZOOM digital recorder and it could make your audio a little better and easier to work with.
Unfortunately it does add a little extra complication to your videos.. but it might be worth it in the end. :)
Somethin i learned is to spay water on the cut to reduce heat.
Who won the giveaway?
bonjour papy il est en bonne etat votre marbre super comme tout le reste super ilo a du soin du matosse
A dull blade and a dull drill bit can cause work hardening making it very difficult
nice!! 💪 👷🏻
New grinders?
Thought that too, don't remember a Metabo in the fleet, but I'll have to check my records (j/k). I believe he is of the school of many grinders thought.
SS will destroy a blade meant for cutting carbon steel.
Completely true. Diablo (Freud) is the only company that I know of that sells a 14" blade that they state right on it can be used for both steel and stainless steel. And these blades are fairly cheap compared to the other available stainless steel blades.
@@satamanschmidt3428 Evolution makes an awesome 14" blade specifically for ss, I've cut tons of 316 and it's still cutting like new. I tried that Diablo and it didn't last more than a dozen cuts on the 316, which made me look into the Evolution and I've never looked back.
Another nice project!! How’s your 3m speedglas? I’ve been considering buying one for the welding courses I’m taking in the fall. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for watching, I love the speedglas, I have a few different speedglas helmets, The one i'm using in the video is the 9000. Jimbo!
I usually weld from the inside and out, specially if it’s stainless steel..
yup i was saying the same thing to myself, amateurs will learn the hard way
I think it would have looked better on the outside of the 2” if you would have scotch bright it on a forty five degree angle in the corners.
Jimbo you can sharpen that blade on your Mill
Not unless you have diamond tooling. They aren't that expensive to sharpen. Probably about $30. I use Scott's Sharpening Service here in Phoenix. The types of blades that can't be sharpened are those that have the European anti-kickback design behind the teeth which hood the carbide so that the diamond tools can't get to them. Porter-Cable's Riptide blades are made this way and their 1410 dry cut saw was one of the first ever introduced to the American market. A normal triple chip blade like that used by Fein on this machine are no different than those used in woodworking and can be sharpened several times for reasonable money. Jimbo lets his blades go way too far before he switches them out. I keep mine on a rotation so that when I can start to feel one getting dull it's off to Scott's and another one takes its place. With three blades in rotation and changed at the proper time you will not need to buy another blade for 5 years minimum.
That setting on machine was for 2% co2, not 25%....just saying.....
Boa tarde , suas soldas são obras de arte, parabéns!
Jimbo, you've got me confused. First off you're mentioning welding gas which in the case of stainless steel is always a tri-mix so 75/25 isn't going to cut in on normal non-fluxed solid wire. Then you're chipping slag off of the weld which indicates that you're using a flux cored wire which has no need for shielding gas. I looked on HTP's site and they don't have a dual shield stainless wire so: WHAT'S THE DEAL?
Thanks for watching SATAMAN, This is a dual shield ( gas shielded) flux cored wire. They make a gas-less flux cored and a gas shielded flux cored stainless wire. The one with the gas, The one i'm using here is a E309LT1 if you wish to look it up and check a little deeper than that.... And yes - 75/25 is the recommended gas for that ( since that flux burning off creates the rest of the shielding gas atmosphere that is required). I hope that shines some light on this for you. Go to usaweld.com and you will find that wire there. That is where i got mine! Jimbo!
wow I was told to use tri mix gas for stainless its 3 times the cost looks like you going cheap I see that its going to x-ray and a dual shield flux core and running gas ????
Nice job sir
Can you ave à job ?
those blades can be resharpened
you should put cutting wax on the blade , it will by hold for ever
Wow a yank that uses a guard on their grinder 😂
am stop here just know if you use gas or no gas if so what kind of gas and the technique no yor proyects
This is not mig weld because it has a flux..
Maybe fcaw machine
Someone has money
Thats flux not mig my dude.