silica is awesome, I live in a really harsh climate with high heat, high humidity, high pest pressures and silica has done wonders in reducing a lot of the plant stress and I use it in all my reservoirs. There's a way to buy potassium silicate in its raw powdered form and make your own solution for pennies on the dollar as well , maybe something worth exploring in the future if you like the results because it does get expensive if you're using it large scale!
I switched to using wollastonite powder to provide my plants with silicon because of the expense and all of the headache SiO2 brings. It's commonly used in the ceramics industry, or at least that's how I find it here in EU and it's dirt cheap compared with the soluble stuff. It's used as a growing medium amendment rather than being added to the res, which means it's not well suited to nft/dwc etc but it's amazing for rain gutter systems and any other systems where you're planting into some kind of medium. Great vid again and look forward to seeing the results!
does not work on mites.. i grow hugely and know all about mites... you want predator mites like californicus, or if in states, pfr97 or met52 is a superior ipm spray fungi that gets most bug population... years of commercial growing here
I've gone through 2 gallons of liquid silica. It's good. I'm using a powdered variety now that claims it can make hundreds of gallons of silica from just one pound. Still testing.
Bro, just foliar spray your Potassium Siicate! its great in pest management sprays too. Also, im sure the silicate complexes with Calcium ions, from memory anyway.
Tents and greenhouses allow aphids and mites while blocking their relatively larger predators. You should consider investing in a good battery-powered 8-10 liter backpack sprayer to spray the entire greenhouse with IPM. You could also consider introducing predators such as ladybugs, mantes and predatory mites.
85% phosphoric Acid.. Just reaching out to the community here. Please be very carefull read your Safety Data Sheet or SDS and Wear appropriate PPE. Google SDS phosphoric acid 85% you will find a sds listed. Please respect the chemicals you are using serious life changing injuries can occur. Much love to Hoocho and the community from a concerned H&S practitioner and hydroponic enthusiast
MSA silica is far superior... for plant uptake. Cost will surprise but you use less per gallon of water, and your plants get more use of MSA over cheaper silica feeds..... 2 brands, powerSi or GrowGenius Msa silica. Just do research and its solidly proven
This gave me another rabbit hole to go down and I've discovered there are mono-silicic products that might be worth looking into. Grow Genius mono-silicic is one product that seems to be really available everywhere. While quite expensive it looks like you only need 0.3ml of it per 10L. That's 3ml per 100L! I'm not a scientist by any stretch of the imagination, but from what I've read it's more stable and more available for the plant too. I'd love to know what you think about it, is this the way to go?
I’m just finding it’s more appropriate as a general nutrient. I always wanted to use this but I couldn’t get my hands on it before we stocked it. It’s more forgiving as a general nutrient. Diamond T is tomato specific. So as a nutrient I’m recommending it’s a cover all. Diamond t was absolutely amazing. But I’ve just shifted so I can cover every plant type.
@@Hoocho I appreciate all the information you have given us over the years. Really enjoying 'all the gear' too. Very much up my isle of things im interested in. I'm gonna look at white as well, I grow chillies mostly, so I might even look at their spec C too.
Potassium silicate won't be "available" to your plants. It takes some time for soil microbes to "convert" it, which won't be present in hydroponics. Try using monisilicic acid instead. Second tip, don't mix it with your nutrient solution - apply it from an auxiliary tank once a week and don't bother adjusting the pH - once a week won't affect the plants at a hight pH. Mixing potassium silicate with calcium will clog your emitters.
A number if nutrient lines are now using Silica as a pH Up (Athena Blended line Balance is also Potassium Silicate or H&G pH+ Stabiliz/Osmose). It'll also help where youre running a softer water to ensure proper buffering. A higher EC for certain high-value crops means you only need pH up and using the silica for that is basically a two for one. Also, dont use Ethanol / Isopropyl for sterilization, you want Peracetic Acid (PAA). Its better than H2O2 alone which also dissipates way too quickly ✌️
@@Hoocho Saves money on pH up with all the silica benefits. It's not an "essential element" but depending on your crop, it's effectively essential for the yield boosts
To cut costs and receive some of the benefits of silica, maybe add enough to raise your ph such that you don't have to add any ph up or down. That seems like it would be the biggest bang for the buck. Instead of 500 ml it would be 250 ml or 25 ml to get you to the proper ph.
I love how birds point out threats. Saw some unusual seagull activity in my works carpark where one would hover and flap it's wings funny. I went to have a look and there was a black feral cat.
Hahaha the problem with this is when the butcher birds go off, my dogs have learned it means something interesting and immediately run straight for the chaos.
why not to invent a 3d printed clamp for holding 4 buckets together or redesigning buckets to allow for a 4x buckets mobility clamp handle. Something sophisticated but yet extremely simple to use, a holding device to move buckets around. Something as simple as a top of a shovel handle and gravity lock mechanism.
Hey! I saw the snake in your video and was wondering if you let it go back into nature. Also, do you usually take any precautions to avoid venomous snakes in general? Just curious!
That snake was not venomous. I let him on his way. I don’t film what happens to the venomous ones. 🤣 (Obviously I pay a lot for a snake catcher and relocate them)😉 I won’t have them on the property with my dogs.
Thanks for the reply! Just wanted to say that your videos are incredibly informative, and I really appreciate the effort you put into them. Keep up the great work!!!!
Interesting dosage on the phosphoric acid, 85% phosphoric acid pH down from Growth Technology says 1mL per 50L and you're saying 1mL per 10L. Wonder who's right, you have a pretty pricey meter so I'd hope your dosing is right but the discrepancy is odd.
becuase you cant grow mj there you should start doing peppers and try to make the best one with all the same tech you would ... is breeding cloning how to make your own pepper also you should add computers and sensors so you can remotely manage ph and everything else like temps and humanity
Some of your past time-lapses show your leaves wilting during the day and erect at night... which of these reasons are causing that behavior? Overwatering or Poor Drainage: Excess water in the root zone can reduce oxygen availability, leading to root stress. This can cause leaves to droop during the day as water movement is restricted. Heat Stress: If daytime temperatures are too high, plants can lose water faster than they can take it up, causing temporary wilting or drooping during the hottest parts of the day. Light Intensity: If plants are exposed to very intense light, they may close their stomata to reduce water loss, which can also result in leaf drooping. This is a defense mechanism to prevent excess transpiration. Humidity Levels: Low humidity can increase transpiration rates, leading to wilting during the day. Conversely, higher nighttime humidity may allow the plant to rehydrate and regain turgidity. Nutrient Imbalances: An imbalance of essential nutrients, particularly potassium, can interfere with water regulation and lead to abnormal wilting patterns. Photoperiod Sensitivity: Some plants have natural circadian rhythms that might influence leaf movement based on their exposure to light, even if conditions seem stable.
When I was looking at silicon's role in plants, the papers suggested the effective amount needed is so, so small it is achieved by contamination from nutrients and containers and dust. As in it's almost impossible to deliberately cause silicon defficiency. Can you share what made you decide to try it? It seems like a tricky placebo
Ex-Chemist here, you probably know that, but PH is not a linear scale, its logarithmic, so if you are at PH 6 you are 10 times more acidic than PH7. So if you go down from 10 to 8 its a factor of 100 and going down from 8 to 7 is 10. Should have watched until the end, but still. And looked at your other videos. 🤦♂ ua-cam.com/video/rswCtpewK0k/v-deo.htmlsi=HaSmjKXLAEPRFmc6
Silica is a hard crystalline solid, and not the same as the acid form of silicon such as potassium silicate. With that I think you should focus on making videos about things you do understand, goodbye!
My grow nutrient reduces my tap to 5.8 so I don't bother using silicate until flower. The flower nutrient drops the pH to 5.2 so I figure out how much I need to raise it to 5.5-5.8 and then just use it as pH up before adding nutrients. It ends up being somewhere within scope of recommended dose.
Buddy... buddy.... first, you want 6.0 to 6.5. Your plants will uptake better(most garden stuff). Also, citric acid powder from fruit and used for baking, is a good pH down, and for ph Up, baking soda... very simple
I like the gap between start and "welcome back to Hoocho!"
you're now uploading videos frequently , That's super cool
I'm glad you're back, too.
silica is awesome, I live in a really harsh climate with high heat, high humidity, high pest pressures and silica has done wonders in reducing a lot of the plant stress and I use it in all my reservoirs. There's a way to buy potassium silicate in its raw powdered form and make your own solution for pennies on the dollar as well , maybe something worth exploring in the future if you like the results because it does get expensive if you're using it large scale!
I would love a link to this process is you have one, sounds like an avenue worth pursuing
@@N1ghtR1der666 Same!
Those cucumbers looked excellent Robs stuff always looks fantastic , and your getting nft back up excellent
love your energy . keep doing what you love
Keen to see how this goes. I have just started to use this product myself.
I switched to using wollastonite powder to provide my plants with silicon because of the expense and all of the headache SiO2 brings. It's commonly used in the ceramics industry, or at least that's how I find it here in EU and it's dirt cheap compared with the soluble stuff. It's used as a growing medium amendment rather than being added to the res, which means it's not well suited to nft/dwc etc but it's amazing for rain gutter systems and any other systems where you're planting into some kind of medium. Great vid again and look forward to seeing the results!
Awesome video, i have uesd diatomaceous earth on my peppers for years, improves pest resistance and just gets seedlings growing.
does not work on mites.. i grow hugely and know all about mites... you want predator mites like californicus, or if in states, pfr97 or met52 is a superior ipm spray fungi that gets most bug population... years of commercial growing here
Silica does work tho@@dertythegrower
I recommend the mono silicic acid . I use it on my devils lettuce.
bingo.. just said this in another... aka msa silica. PowerSi and growgenius makes it in euro area
He's not growing electric lettuce, he's doing acoustic lettuce. 😜
Been working with liquid Silica since a decade, i wouldnt want to miss it in Hydroponics anymore.
Trying my hand at decomposed granite, sand stone, pumice coco/peat & 5% bio char
What if we spray that as a foliar spray to the leaves of the plant, that way it don't mess with the PH ? Please reply :)
Yeah mate, there’s directions on the bottle for that, it’s mentioned in the video.
@@Hoocho OK thankyou :)
I've gone through 2 gallons of liquid silica. It's good.
I'm using a powdered variety now that claims it can make hundreds of gallons of silica from just one pound. Still testing.
msa silica is far superior than potassium silicate...
Can I ask the supplier? I’d love to reduce the cost of our offering.
Bro, just foliar spray your Potassium Siicate! its great in pest management sprays too. Also, im sure the silicate complexes with Calcium ions, from memory anyway.
from Kiribati, thank you
Tents and greenhouses allow aphids and mites while blocking their relatively larger predators. You should consider investing in a good battery-powered 8-10 liter backpack sprayer to spray the entire greenhouse with IPM. You could also consider introducing predators such as ladybugs, mantes and predatory mites.
6:00 is there any reason you aren't mixing your own with pure SiO2 and KOH? KOH is dirt cheap and so is SiO2
Haha I hope that was rum heads you used for the isopropyl cleaning 🤙🏼
85% phosphoric Acid.. Just reaching out to the community here. Please be very carefull read your Safety Data Sheet or SDS and Wear appropriate PPE. Google SDS phosphoric acid 85% you will find a sds listed. Please respect the chemicals you are using serious life changing injuries can occur. Much love to Hoocho and the community from a concerned H&S practitioner and hydroponic enthusiast
No.
Better is msa silica.. commercial grower here
MSA silica is far superior... for plant uptake. Cost will surprise but you use less per gallon of water, and your plants get more use of MSA over cheaper silica feeds..... 2 brands, powerSi or GrowGenius Msa silica. Just do research and its solidly proven
@@dertythegroweragreed, I use Silicic Acid (same diff), easy to mix in and I’m not seeing any pH swings!
This gave me another rabbit hole to go down and I've discovered there are mono-silicic products that might be worth looking into. Grow Genius mono-silicic is one product that seems to be really available everywhere. While quite expensive it looks like you only need 0.3ml of it per 10L. That's 3ml per 100L! I'm not a scientist by any stretch of the imagination, but from what I've read it's more stable and more available for the plant too. I'd love to know what you think about it, is this the way to go?
Consider buying AGSIL16 in powdered form and mixing it on your own if you REALLY want to hit that price ratio.
It could be just me, but I found when using Silca in my hydroponics setup, my plants become firm but very brittle.
Mawww, I dont have a 3 d printer, how do we get some of your new seed raising trays..... xxxx ooo xxx They look awesome
Invest in a sprayer with pyrethrin and insecticidal soap for the spider mites.
BIG DOG!! Love a good update video like this. What was the reason of changing to Campbells white? I use Diamond TV and it's bloody awesome
I’m just finding it’s more appropriate as a general nutrient.
I always wanted to use this but I couldn’t get my hands on it before we stocked it.
It’s more forgiving as a general nutrient.
Diamond T is tomato specific.
So as a nutrient I’m recommending it’s a cover all.
Diamond t was absolutely amazing.
But I’ve just shifted so I can cover every plant type.
Also. Love ya mate. Thanks for all your support ❤️👌🏻😂
@@Hoocho I appreciate all the information you have given us over the years. Really enjoying 'all the gear' too. Very much up my isle of things im interested in.
I'm gonna look at white as well, I grow chillies mostly, so I might even look at their spec C too.
Glad to see this system... can you help me to setup it at my
Potassium silicate won't be "available" to your plants. It takes some time for soil microbes to "convert" it, which won't be present in hydroponics. Try using monisilicic acid instead. Second tip, don't mix it with your nutrient solution - apply it from an auxiliary tank once a week and don't bother adjusting the pH - once a week won't affect the plants at a hight pH. Mixing potassium silicate with calcium will clog your emitters.
I've been having a lot of issues with spider mites too, any tips?
Silica mate. It’s fixed my problem.
@Hoocho sweet, bought some now
A number if nutrient lines are now using Silica as a pH Up (Athena Blended line Balance is also Potassium Silicate or H&G pH+ Stabiliz/Osmose). It'll also help where youre running a softer water to ensure proper buffering. A higher EC for certain high-value crops means you only need pH up and using the silica for that is basically a two for one.
Also, dont use Ethanol / Isopropyl for sterilization, you want Peracetic Acid (PAA). Its better than H2O2 alone which also dissipates way too quickly ✌️
Silicone as ph up is a brilliant idea.
@@Hoocho Saves money on pH up with all the silica benefits. It's not an "essential element" but depending on your crop, it's effectively essential for the yield boosts
We need hydroland in Europe!!
Is there a flower fruit a b product at kegland?
To cut costs and receive some of the benefits of silica, maybe add enough to raise your ph such that you don't have to add any ph up or down. That seems like it would be the biggest bang for the buck. Instead of 500 ml it would be 250 ml or 25 ml to get you to the proper ph.
Wow considering that the SDS for GT Silica says Silicic acid, potassium salt 30-60% why is so little guaranteed w/v?
I love how birds point out threats. Saw some unusual seagull activity in my works carpark where one would hover and flap it's wings funny. I went to have a look and there was a black feral cat.
Hahaha the problem with this is when the butcher birds go off, my dogs have learned it means something interesting and immediately run straight for the chaos.
Wait I’m confused, should I be adjusting PH after nutrient?
always
why not to invent a 3d printed clamp for holding 4 buckets together or redesigning buckets to allow for a 4x buckets mobility clamp handle. Something sophisticated but yet extremely simple to use, a holding device to move buckets around. Something as simple as a top of a shovel handle and gravity lock mechanism.
Hahahaha, I was legitimately thinking this as I carried them. 😂😅
Hey! I saw the snake in your video and was wondering if you let it go back into nature. Also, do you usually take any precautions to avoid venomous snakes in general? Just curious!
That snake was not venomous.
I let him on his way.
I don’t film what happens to the venomous ones. 🤣
(Obviously I pay a lot for a snake catcher and relocate them)😉
I won’t have them on the property with my dogs.
Thanks for the reply! Just wanted to say that your videos are incredibly informative, and I really appreciate the effort you put into them. Keep up the great work!!!!
Interesting dosage on the phosphoric acid, 85% phosphoric acid pH down from Growth Technology says 1mL per 50L and you're saying 1mL per 10L.
Wonder who's right, you have a pretty pricey meter so I'd hope your dosing is right but the discrepancy is odd.
whats the overall TDS you got at the end??
1.5 EC for the greens
2.6 EC for the Fruiting.
put silica before all other nutrients... for sure... also study msa silica, way better than the basic silica
can you grow Blue Butterfly Pea and make some Tea to show us. i am growing it now its about 1 foot long, how should i set up my plant
@@o1ecypher maybe not tea, but definitely gin!
electrical circuits
I think I would have siphoned out X% of your high Ph water for later use and backfill with low Ph tap/rain water
@@zestynotions you’d dilute the silica
becuase you cant grow mj there you should start doing peppers and try to make the best one with all the same tech you would ... is breeding cloning how to make your own pepper also you should add computers and sensors so you can remotely manage ph and everything else like temps and humanity
Some of your past time-lapses show your leaves wilting during the day and erect at night... which of these reasons are causing that behavior?
Overwatering or Poor Drainage: Excess water in the root zone can reduce oxygen availability, leading to root stress. This can cause leaves to droop during the day as water movement is restricted.
Heat Stress: If daytime temperatures are too high, plants can lose water faster than they can take it up, causing temporary wilting or drooping during the hottest parts of the day.
Light Intensity: If plants are exposed to very intense light, they may close their stomata to reduce water loss, which can also result in leaf drooping. This is a defense mechanism to prevent excess transpiration.
Humidity Levels: Low humidity can increase transpiration rates, leading to wilting during the day. Conversely, higher nighttime humidity may allow the plant to rehydrate and regain turgidity.
Nutrient Imbalances: An imbalance of essential nutrients, particularly potassium, can interfere with water regulation and lead to abnormal wilting patterns.
Photoperiod Sensitivity: Some plants have natural circadian rhythms that might influence leaf movement based on their exposure to light, even if conditions seem stable.
RIP 😆for the rez loss
When I was looking at silicon's role in plants, the papers suggested the effective amount needed is so, so small it is achieved by contamination from nutrients and containers and dust. As in it's almost impossible to deliberately cause silicon defficiency. Can you share what made you decide to try it? It seems like a tricky placebo
Actual results and better studies
study msa silica, youll see those old papers are wrong 😅
crazy how you ozzies need to register to make your own booze, no rules no questions over the ditch in New Zealand
The rest of the world 😂
cause people get sick andor go blind from doing it wrong.. botchilism but spelled different
@@dertythegrower the methanol conspiracy is perpetuated by the tax collectors to prevent people from realising they can make their own liquid gold.
Ex-Chemist here,
you probably know that, but
PH is not a linear scale, its logarithmic, so if you are at PH 6 you are 10 times more acidic than PH7.
So if you go down from 10 to 8 its a factor of 100 and going down from 8 to 7 is 10.
Should have watched until the end, but still.
And looked at your other videos. 🤦♂
ua-cam.com/video/rswCtpewK0k/v-deo.htmlsi=HaSmjKXLAEPRFmc6
Silica is a hard crystalline solid, and not the same as the acid form of silicon such as potassium silicate.
With that I think you should focus on making videos about things you do understand, goodbye!
@@ugponics See you next Tuesday
My grow nutrient reduces my tap to 5.8 so I don't bother using silicate until flower. The flower nutrient drops the pH to 5.2 so I figure out how much I need to raise it to 5.5-5.8 and then just use it as pH up before adding nutrients. It ends up being somewhere within scope of recommended dose.
Buddy... buddy.... first, you want 6.0 to 6.5. Your plants will uptake better(most garden stuff).
Also, citric acid powder from fruit and used for baking, is a good pH down, and for ph Up, baking soda... very simple
also funny name.. i think i chat with you before somewhere else years ago here lol